Richard Raffan turns a thin bowl from green elm
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 4 ต.ค. 2024
- This shows a green (unseasoned) version of the thin box-elder bowl turned from seasoned timber in • Richard Raffan turns a... . This elm bowl didn't warp as expected so I cut it in half to view the wall thickness, then made rectangular dishes from the two halves.
It always pains me to see a beautiful bowl cut in half but I haven't turned thousands of them
Great education and your personal critiquing is priceless! Thanks for all your videos and commitment to the craft! I have your books and the videos are a major part of my knowledge!!
Me too, but this wasn't that beautiful a bowl.
@@RichardRaffanwoodturning Ahh Beauty is in the eyes of the beholder. When I saw you leave the bottom of the bowl unfinished, I thought it was a keeper!
@@edeyden1326 The bottom was finished but not oiled to make signing easier. At that stage I thought this bowl would go oval rather than slump to one side which made it unstable and easy to tip over. That rendered it unfit for sale and an ideal candidate for cutting in half.
Very good Richard, always an invaluable lesson. No need to apologise for your mutterings, there's often a bit of humour, and pearls of wisdom if one listens carefully.
Richard Raffan is an inspiration to all people who love to turn timber, including me, who isn't able to turn timber now because of blasted brain cancer.
What a bummer...
Glad to see that you didn't waste the wood inside the blank
Very nice of you, I always benefit from you, and I am very honored to know you
Thank you for the great eduction on turning a thin walled bowl. I always learn so much from watching your videos and listening to your explanations. Thank you!
It always fascinates me when one can see light through a bowl. Very clever use of the sectioned bowl by making it into smaller sections.
The man hit the bowl with a hammer. Lol! Love how this guy conducts business!
Another very good video from the Raffin shop. Thank you Richard. I always enjoy your productions and usually learn something too. You are awfully picky about the results. You pointed out several flaws in the wall thickness of the half bowl that I just cannot see. It all looked pretty good with the light shining through the wood. Have a great day and stay safe.🙂🙂
I always enjoy your commentary
Thanks Richard , a clever way to use the halves . I would have kept it as is but I have not turned thousands of bowls.
Thank you for sharing all your experience and wisdom. It is so so much appreciated.
Thanks for the lesson Richard.
I just acquired some flame box alder and I tried to turn a very thin bowl.. my best pass with the 1/2" gouge and my last one had gone through the recess in the bottom..
It will be better with the next attempt.. your video is inspiring..thank you sir for sharing your knowledge.
Whenever possible I avoid using expanding jaws in a recess. A recess usually comprimises your design options whilst reducing the depth to which you can hollow.
I need to read more about the species of trees in Australia. I always wonder if Australian Elm is similar to American Elm (or other species). Thanks for demonstrating another green wood turning video.
All elms in Australia are imported exotics but I've found some are much easier to work than similar elms I turned in Britain. I put that down to the soils and different climate. I have no memories of American elms.
that specific elm tree was Ulmus Parvifolia, (as distinct from U. Procera) & was grown in a well watered area next to a sheep pen, about 1km from the Murrumbidgee river
Is there a reason you don’t use a curved rest that allows for closer support of the tool to the bowl? I turned an ash bowl recently that was from a dead standing tree, about 11 inches in diameter and 6 inches deep. I was able to turn the wall down to 1/4 inch thick, but even as I turned it the bowl was starting to warp as it begin to dry. I had to establish the wall thickness at the rim and then not revisit it. After 4 months in AZ dryness the bowl has not cracked and has a very nice warp to it. Thanks for the great video. I’ve never seen someone core a bowl “free hand” or the tool to do it. Bravo!
Grazie, adesso ho capito! Thanks, now I understand!
Bonjour Richard. ça la joue fine...C'est sûr il ne faut pas se rater dans le creusage.👍
Given that I don't speak English (and I don't even understand it!!) so a large part of the video remains hermetic for me (I carefully follow the images and therefore the succession of movements, the alternation of the gouges and so on...) I have a question : after having done the splendid job of making a bowl of minimal thickness, why cut it and practically destroy it?
The bowl was from unseasoned wood and when finished it was dried in a microwave oven. I thought it would go oval, but it warped enough to one side to be unstable. It tipped over easily, so not a bowl I would sell. It was a good candidate for cutting in half to see how even the wall thickness is and if the curves were smooth. It's good to cut a few bowls in half to learn why some feel and look better than others.
Its interesting; I cant see you tightening down your tool rest after adjusting it...
You see me pushing down on the cam lock several times. The Vicmarc tool rests are the best I've encountered, all easily adjusted one-handed on their big lathes as well as this, their smallest.
Excellent demonstration, thank you. What size sanding pads do you have on the rotary sander/angle drill please? Was there a specific choice (I'm assuming it's either 2 or 3 inches) or was the size picked for you when you were handed an original rotary sander years ago and there's never been a reason to change? One final question to tag onto that, would you change the size if you were starting afresh for whatever reason - size limitations or speed or whatnot.
Thanks again.
I've been power sanding since 1983 when I found 3" sanding disks ideal. I have 2" but rarely use them.
Buongiorno Richard complimenti grande bravissimo beautiful mi piacerebbe vedere come affilare le sue sgorbie e raschi grazie mille
There are videos in the Tools and Sharpening Playlist th-cam.com/play/PLBAvwOB0lJTS-QyorpwWhSowzY9XZR5u_.html
Beautiful bowl! When scraping that thin, do you form the burr to be less aggressive? Ex: use a burnisher to roll the burr vs a hone or grinder burr.
I use the burr created on the 80-grit CBN wheel. If the edge grabs, or when working very hard timbers like cocobolo or gidgee, I'll hone the top of the scraper to rmove the burr, then hone the edge to all but remove any burr.
That was another fun video. Seems like wet turning a thin walled bowl is the way to go. Is there a safer way to enter the inside of the bowl at the rim? What is the best tool for that?
You can start the hollowing cut with a scraper, turning a small shoulder against which to rest the gouge bevel. That should prevent the gouge running back.
OMG, that slicing tool looks formidable. Did you make it or was it sold by a turning tool maker? If sold, by whom?
Sorby make a similar slicer. This is an original Stewart System Slicer from the mid-1980s
Excellent thank you
So a thin green bowl. What about cracking? Or when it warps it wobbles?
Sounds like you didn't watch the end of this video and see what happens to this bowl when it didn't warp as hoped. My thin green-turned bowls rarely crack but do warp as is intended. The blanks are carefully cut so the bowls, pots, or tubes warp in a particular way. Many green-turned bowls have three feet so they don't wobble, others have rounded bases so they do, but don't fall over. In the long run most wooden bowls with flat bases will wobble when the bowl warps slightly which is inevitable. You see some Wavy Bowls in th-cam.com/video/ZvZ5k4IzqpQ/w-d-xo.html