Depending on what shifters your running, you should also check out the new shimano GRX rear derailleur as shifting will be noticeable crisper that with the Wolftooth roadlink.
The manufacturer recommends lightly greasing the threads before installing. In my case, I would periodically switch back periodically; I live in mountain foothiils. The manufactuer also recommends breaking the cain before installation and evaluating whether your it is still the correct length.
info for people who have SRAM Rival 1 RD. my 40t cassette wasn't working with a medium-size Rival 1 rear derailleur regardless of WolfTooth Roadlink. I think it's a good solution for a Shimano RD, but not for SRAM RD. As soon as I bought long-size Rival 1 RD everything worked like a champ. Two road bikes, one has 40t cassette another 42t cassette both have SRAM long arm RD's and no problem. Luckily my LBS agreed to give me money back for the roadlink.
@@MozOnBikes jockey wheel was rubbing last couple of cogs. Yes, roadlink improved the situation a bit, but not to the point I can use it. When I installed the ling cage, it worked beautifully. I think Shimano RD mech works better with the roadlink.
Hi i have 52/36 front Ultegra R8000 crank with 11/28 cassette in rear with SRAM Etap 11 speed RD it's Standard short cage version want to have 11-34 or 11-32 atleast for better hill climbing. Let me know will just b tension screw and longer chain swap will work or do I need Roadlink wolftooth or similar. Thank you
Great video man,really ...thank you for all the work and questions you answer...I have a dilemma that pbly you have an answer...I have dura ace 7900 10 speed with 11 28 and 53 39. I have at home a wolf tooth link and wonder how can I increase my climbing gear range ... swapping the 39 in the front for a 36 ...or get a cassette in the back with a new chain 11 40 ?or 11 32 ?...thx in advance
Just finished fitting one to my Super-Six. 11-32 ten-speed cassette. Working like a charm with a 105 short-cage mech’. Tried a long-cage last year and just couldn’t get it to work to my satisfaction. This is great though. Many thanks...👍
Hey Bill, I’ve floated between a long cage and short cage 105 mechs. The 105 certainly felt more positive and crisper in my experience also. I’ve been running mine with a single chainring and a wide range cassette so the long cage was way more the the chain capacity I needed, so went back to short.
Hi Bill, just saw your comment. I have a 105 short cage and a 11-25 cassette ...wich is to hard in the mountains/hills :-) . As i understand i only need the adapter and a new cassette 11-32 or 11-34 ...and perhaps a new chain? Am i right? THX in advance....Michael
A GCN video said you have to have a clutch on the RD when using a 1-by, I think they said for reasons of chain tension when going to the small cog. However it seems that people are doing 1--by without a clutch RD. I was just thinking though that they might have said to use a clutch to avoid chain slap. Do you think that could be the case?
Yeah I get a bit of chain slap with the 10 speed 105 if I’m in the 11 or 12 tooth end of the cassette and stop peddling abruptly. I’ve got the the new 10 speed tiagra on my caadx and it doesn’t have this issue. Seems to me like some of the older mechs have weak tension springs
Arahorn I made this conversion with my Merida silex shimano 105. Chain slap was noticable plus few chain drops. Got myself ultegra RX (clutch road derailleur , available from this summer) rear deraileur 90 euros plus gave me possibility to install 11-34 ultegra casette instead of 11-28, almost no loss in gears.
Nice background music. What's name of song, album, artist... I used Wolftooth road link. There web page is easy to navigate; however, they didn't recommend Triplet but that's what I'm using... 12-36 has good range of high & low gears... 12,13,15,17 good high end minus 14t cog 28,32,36 good low end for hills To upgrade or not? I was debating on whether or not to spend $4600 + $460 tax for new 2017/18 Paris Roubaix Expert + ~$2000 more for clipless pedals, Garmin, etc... The 2017/18 Paris Roubaix Expert is truly a beautiful bike, with a lot of new technology... However, I decided to keep that money and upgraded my 2008 Paris Roubaix Expert Triplet instead, which already has clipless & Garmin and only had to add 12-36 cassette, RD hanger & new chain : $133 vs $5000-$7000 for new bike and accessories... I suspect there's no paved roads I won't be able to climb with 36t in rear and 24t in front, bike only weighs 18-20 lbs, plus I still have fast gears for down hills and flats... Chain Rings Ultegra: 52-39-30 before 52-39-24 now Cassettes: 11-28: 11-12-13-14-15-17-19-21-24-28 Ultegra CS6700 original 12-30: 12-13-14-15-17-19-21-24-27-30 Ultegra CS6700 - now 12-36: 12-13-##-15-17-19-22-25-28-32-36 SRAM PG-1070 going to Parts Added / Swapped In Shimano 24T... : Chain Ring Cog Shimano CN-6701 : Ultegra chain Shimano CS-6700 : Ultegra 12-30 Shimano M772 : XT RD SO Roadlink RD hanger for 12-36 If for some reason 36 is overkill I'll go to 12-32 as majority of my riding occurs between 13,14,15,17. I suspect I'll miss 14 cog when going to 12-36... List of upgrades ( see 1st, 2nd 3rd ) 11-28: 11-12-13-14-15-17-19-21-24-28 1st 12-30: 12-13-14-15-17-19-21-24-27-30 2nd 12-32: 12-13-14-15-17-19-22-25-28-32 12-36: 12-13-##-15-17-19-22-25-28-32-36 3rd
+S G be carful that your rear mech has enough capacity to take up all that chain. I'm not sure there's a mech out there that can handle that much officially
Moz On Bikes You're correct... Following is what works and I never get confused nor is it a problem because some crossovers simply do not make sense... There's no need for me to be in 24 / 12, 13, 15, 17, 19 as 24 is only for climbing with 25, 28, 32, 36 Same applies for 53. There's no need for 53 / 25, 28, 32, 36 though it can shift into those gears mechanically, there's no need for that combination as I use 53 primarily for flats and speed 53 works ( can shift into any of the gears on the cassethe 12-36 ); however, I only use it with following: 12,13,15,17,19 only. 39 works with all: the gears and is where I ride majority of the time... 39 / 12,13,15,17,19,22,25,28,32,36 39 / 12, 13 with good cadence is pretty fast ( 20 to 25 miles )
Hey There, Your videos are great and helpful. I have converted my Shimano 105 Groupset to the DIY 1x version by removing the bigger crank, and finally got rid of that front derailleur. Now I'm looking to modify it with 11-42 . Do you think this set-up is possible with wolftooth and Shimano 105? Cheers Josh
Hmm I don’t think I would trust a standard inner chainring with the pins and rams designed to make shifter chainring easy. I’m running an 11-40 with a 105 and wolftooth, so yes. From what you’ve told me, there’s a chance that you might need to shorten your chain rather than make it longer.
Hi Moz, Thanks fot your reply. I did not get this part below. 'Hmm I don’t think I would trust a standard inner chainring with the pins and rams designed to make shifter chainring easy.' I'm also looking to swap my 34T 105 Chainring to a Narrow wide chainring version. Cheers! Josh
i have question regarding b screw.i run a 40 tooth cassette and recently change my gear lever to indexed thumb shifter.i had to unscrew the b screw to get it shifting well.shifting is now perfect but i get occasional slippage of the chain.chain does feel looser in the smaller cogs.is this due to the unscrewed b screw and can i risk taking out 1 link say to get the tension back but keep the great shifting.
Well removing excess links in the chain is a good place to start. This is a bit of an old video now with outdated drivetrain really. The 10 speed 105 rear mech all have really weak tension, I tried many other things to try an increase the tension available Including dismantling the rear mech to increase the tension in the coil spring. I think what happens is that with larger cassettes they have a lot more rotation inertia by the time they get down to the smaller cogs in comparison to a traditional road 11-28. When you pedal the bike up to speed and abruptly stop peddling the inertia built up in the cassette overcome what little tension is left in the rear derailleur in the small cogs and keep rotating forward giving a loose feeling. Have you noticed the chain becoming loose across its top length and maybe touching the chainnstay? Now rear derailleur designed to work with wide range cassette are available with clutches I think it’s easier to do these conversations rather than use compromised work arounds like the road link.
Does it matter exactly where the wolf tooth ends up. mine will swing back and forward when loose. is there a position its supposed to be in? My first hard drive it moved on me when shifting so i had to stop and get off then tighten it up then i road softer home was scared i was going to wrap my derailleur around.
I have one on a Giant Propel with a 11-40 cassette and it works well, I also have a TA Specialties 33 tooth small chainring on the front that I bought of Wiggle.
Hi, I thought the road link is supposed to work with long cage (or medium cage) rear derailleur setups? Is that maybe why you are having trouble with the chain tension?
+Wai Lee well it all depends on how much chain you need to take up. The short cage is fine on the 11-40 cassette with a single front chainring in that respect. Saying that in did buy a long cage rear mech to try and alleviate the issue but with no luck.
Moz On Bikes ok thanks for that. I've got a short Ultegra Di2 derailleur (with a semi crankset) and was thinking of adding an 11-40 and maybe swapping the rear mech to the GS...do you think that would work no problem?
+Wai Lee I'm not sure what the chain capacity of the ultegra Di2 is off the top of my head. Basically you need to work out the tooth difference between the cross chaining big chainring with (40t in your case)big cassette and small chainring small cassette (11t) and take the small number away from the big to work out total chain slack. Then you can check in the shimano website for the capacity of your rear mech to see if it can soak up that chain slack. My gut feeling is that you'll need a gs at a minimum with a semi compact chainset and even that might not be enough.
wondering if someone can help Current setup is dura-ace 7900 groupset (minus rear D) with FD 7900 dura-ace front derailleur with 105 RD 5701 short cage rear derailleur  SG-x 53-b. Outter Sg-x 10s 39-b Inner 11-28 cassette my 105 short cage is supposed to b able to handle up to a 11 -30 cassette im wondering if i use the wolf tooth if i can hit 11 - 34? or at worst 11 - 32... i really need the help with the low gear ratio for the hills
Yeah it’s not cheap, but it’s a bit of a niche product so I would expect them to sell 10s of thousands per year. This it limits your manufacturing techniques available and they are going to favour a process that’s they have machines for already. A little nugget of cnc aluminium that’s anodised then laser etched plus a bolt that’s also custom made for the part all manufacturers in the western world, plus some margins for them self and the bike shop…30 isn’t bad really. Saying all that, now a few years later I think you can find cheaper alternative that are cast or stamped for maybe £12-15 that’s are made in how knows where and with what quality and health a safety for the workers.
Not sure why you’d want to add a road link to a GRX unless you were trying to use a massive Eagle like cassette. The installation process should be the same but you might end up with the rear mech not being able to take up the additional slack from such a large cassette.
@@Proteeps thats why i avoided the new FX6..... they run 40 up front and 11-42 in the back with grx and its NOT enough help up the hills ended up with the fx3 with 40 up front and 11 46 in the back with deore derailleur and its a perfect low and high combo ratio
I'm currently on 5700 105 short mech with a 32 cassette on the back without an extender, it runs perfectly even in 50/32 ( just to test it).. if I put an extender on and got to a 36 cassette... How many extra links do I need in my chain???
Well to keep the status quo you would need to add 4 links, I’m not sure the extender requires any additional links. What you might need to double check is the link capacity the short cage mech. You might find that it can’t take up the slack in the chain in the 32-11 or that or that the chain is too tight in the 50-36. Wooftooths website is a good place to double check what is possible.
The 5700 SS is max 28T according to Shimano documents. Have you the B screw all the way in to get the 32 sprocket to work? Can you safely run the 50 on the front and the 32 at the rear without a problem? I also have the 5700 short mech on a 12/27 cassette which I want to swap for a 12/30 for better climbing. From what research I've done so far I need a new derailleur, cassette and longer chain. But with this wolftooth I can avoid all that and only replace the cassette? Is that correct?
Hi Joshua, no but only as I have a 10 speed cassette body hacked on to my Zipp 30s as the original 11 speed cassette body shat its self as one of the bearings seized after 18 months use. (Zipp 30 are awful over priced crap wheels, avoid them at all costs). So no i didnt use a spacers, but on most road wheels from the last 3-4 years will need a spacer to fit a mountain bike cassette on a road wheel be it 10 or 11 speed.
Yes its 10 speed, I think the cassettes are quite new out. Its not quite perfect, I seem to get a little chain slap in the 11 tooth when i stop pedalling, im not sure that the free hub in on my zipps is quite strong enough full to control the weight of the larger cassettes. Still its waaaaay better than a front mech and all the problems that they cause!
Justmyopinionlol yes in on my bike it is a short cage. I run a single chainring so can get away with it as I don’t have the additional slack 2 front rings make.
All depends on what derailleur/cassette/chainring combos you are running. Shimano and Sram websites are the best for checking the chain capacity of the rear derailleur, from that you should be able to work out is you need to add or remove links.
Definitely maybe, it really depends on what you’re doing with your chainring/s. For instance, I’ve changed from a 2x to a 1x so it was a bit of a wash chain length wise. Generally adding a say 11-42 cassette and you’ll need to add some links to maintain being able to shift into the 42 on the cassette and remain in the big chainring, but you’ll probably find out that the derailleur will not have the chain link absorbing capacity to then run the 11 in the cassette and the in small chainring. There’s a bit of maths to work out the balancing needed for what your trying to achieve gearing wise.
@@MozOnBikes Yes, I think that is the max you can put on a short cage derailleur. It should work for me. Is there a huge difference between a 28T and 32T for keeping a high cadence up climbs?
Maybe, it all depends how much capacity your rear mech has in chain links to take up the slack. Calculate big chainring + largest cassette gear and the subtract smallest chainring and smallest gear to work out the number of slack links in the chain. You can then look up your rear mech on the manufactures website to see to the capacity the rear mech has in terms of slack links.
@@MozOnBikes I am not really sure what type of rear mech is. I found specs of my bike on internet and in the description is written: deore xt rd-m781 shadow etc.
Hi there im planning my ultegra 6800 11-32 cassette to converR11-40 using xt m8000 CASSETE it is Ok without adding chain links or using my existing chain same length (TIA)
+James Paul Tenasas You'll probably need to add some chain links, you need to work out the chain slack capacity of your rear mech (you can find this on the manufacturer website) and account for the difference in teeth of your chainset. But it's good practice to change your chain the same time as the cassette, so that's what I would do. Also don't forget that mountain bike cassettes are narrower on the free hub so you will need a 1.8mm spacer.
+James Paul Tenasas it has to be the road link. 11speed shimano road shifters don't pull enough cable per click to index an 11speed shimano rear mech. I'd be running a clutch m8000 if it was so!
+lester fontaine Well using a wolftooth roadlink enables the use of a road shifter and derailleur on a wide range cassette, negating the issue of the different pull ratios between mtb and road.
Moz On Bikes but does an MTB cassette have slightly different spacing than a road cassette. Rendering the pull ratio on a road shifter out of sync on the MTB cassette regardless of derailleur position?
The spacing between each cog is the same on 10 speed systems between road and mtb (11 speed road and mtb are a little differnt 3.7mm to 3.9mm but im my experiece it still work, see my venge with an 11 speed XT cassette). There is however a difference in the size of shimano style freehubs. 10 and 11 speed mtb cassettes use the older 10 speed size freehub because of the larger size of the low ratio they can dish towards the hub centre without catching spokes. When using an 11 speed mtb cassette on an 11speed road freehub you need to use a 1.8mm spacer behind the cassette, just like you would using an 10 speed road cassette on a 11 speed road freehub. I hope that makes sense.
Sort of. The cable pull is defined by the shifter and you have to pair that to a rear mech which matches the cable pull, so one click of cable pull at the shifter equals 1 cogs worth of movement from the rear mech. Its not all about ratios. There are some hacks out there like, 9 speed sram mtb shifters on 10 speed shimano rear mechs on 9 speed cassettes, that just about work but is not perfect, I actually ran that set up a couple of years ago as a zee rear mech was way cheaper that a 9 speed X9. Basic rule is 11 speed shimano road shifters with Shimano 11 speed rear mechs. 10 speed shimano road shifters with Shimano 10 speed rear mechs. The latest shimano Tiagra 10 speed has its own distinct pull ratio I believe and it not cross compatible with old 10 speed or new 11 speed systems. Shimano cable Road and MTB systems are not cross compatible although apparently you can mix and match with Di2. SRAM 11 speed road and MTB systems are cross compatible, but theres no need as they do the CX rear mechs for wide range. But if you did want to, you need to add an inline cable adjuster onto on a road bike with a mtb rear mech as they adjust cable pull at the shifter on the MTB triggers.
Hi Julie, yes that is a 105 short cage rear mech. It shifts through all the gear fine but its not quite perfect as theres not much tension on the chain in the high ratios like 11 and 12. So when you're peddling fast in these gears and stop and coast occasionally you hear the chain clink the chain stay as there's not enough dynamic tension in the system. I thought I might have had a freewheel issue for a while but after swapping wheels last weekend its defo down to the short cage mech. I'm going to try and film a video on this issue today and also try an even longer B tension screw to add more tension into the system. So in summery, yes a 105 short cage works but not 100% perfect. Saying that other short cage rear mechs might be better.
Hi Julie, I tried a longer B screw at the weekend and it made very little difference, I recorded how the chain goes slack in slow motion off my phone and its actually quite alarming! Ill post it up soon. Next thing i'm going to try is to disassemble the mech as after looking through some service videos there are 2 positions the jockey wheel cage spring can live in, i'm hoping to get a little more tension out of the system there.
Great video thanks. I have Dura Ace 7900 which is 10 speed. Largest cassette I can use currently 11-28. Can anyone please give me advice if this Roadlink will work for my groupset. What is the largest size cassette I could use. Also which cassette brand? Thanks so much.
It half depends on what you intend you do with the front chainrings as the cage of the mech has to take up the chain slack from both the front chainrings and the rear cassette so you can work out the total slack created from big big to small small. You could run a 11-40, maybe a 42 depending on your frame with a single chain ring for sure. With a double up front the chances are that your derailleur won’t be able to absorb that many chain links so maybe like an XT 11-36 would be a good choice. The best way is to calculate the chain slack with a variety of setups the look at the Shimano website to see what the chainslack capacity of your rear mech is and let that drive the direction your might want to take. Also wolf tooth’s website has some handy tool that might explain your options better last time I checked.
you know shimano has a tension spring on it! hi and low! they come from the factory on low for smoother shifting!!!!!! their are two holes for the spring!
I did, but I did a total drive train replacement with new chainrings, cassette, chain, plus wolftooth roadlink. My advise is to use a chain checking tool for to see how worn your chain is and calculate you have enough links in the chain for the conversion before buying a new chain. But then again, chains are quite cheap for base models and if your spending a load of cash on a big mtb cassette and roadlink its not a bad investment.
Ok thanks. Say champ, i`m looking at installing an 11-34 (10 speed) cassette on a roadbike. Would you happen to know if ANY Ultegra RDs would fit the bill for such a "large" cassette? I am of course trying to figure out if i can do without a roadlink.
Hmm, I’m not sure any of the 10 speed Ultegra will work, but I’ve got the latest version of 10 speed Tiagra on my cannondale cx bike and that handles an 11-36 just without any roadlink type devise. Might be worth investing to see if any of the 11 speed rear mechs work with 10 speed shifters, I suspect the latest shadow rear mechs might handle a 34 cassette. Annoyingly the latest 10 speed tiagra has a different cable pull per gear to all the other shimano 10 speed systems so it’s not cross compatible.
Hmm, i have absolutely no idea if that stunt would work, but i`ve heard that the new R8000 11 speed RD will tackle a 34T cassette. Too much money to spend just to find out, lol. I`d rather not go anything lower than Ultegra since the rest of the set up is Ultegra. I`ve already acquired the new Ultegra R8000 11 speed crankset (50-34) which works in combination with a 10 speed cassette & chain. I am currently considering a 10 speed XTR 11-34 cassette, but the derailleurs i would like to be Ultegra. What about long cages, Ultegra only have short and mid cage RDs, even the old ones? I`m not sure we`re on the same page here. I am doing a flat bar conversion, so i am looking at flat bar shifters specifically. I`ve gotten quite a few tips on the Tiagra SL 4700 shifters. Also i understand i would need a short pull brake lever set for use with road calipers. I still don`t know how cable pull relates for shifters, just that i need flat bar shifters for the road deraillleurs :)
If your doing a flat bar conversion just go with shimano XT, it’ll have no problem at all with the 34 cassette! I think the an ultegra front mech is cross compatible with the mtb shifters, but that’s worth checking. Or check that the xt front mech can work with the larger ultegra chainrings sizes. Regarding cable pull on shifters, it’s similar to brake levers. It just means that shimano 10 and 11 speed need a different amount of mm cable pull per click to move the mech 1 gear. It’s a bit of a mine field to be honest!
I'm going to do the same thing tomorrow. However I have a small question. Now I have a CS-5800 cassette ranging 11-32T I've bought a MX8 ranging from 11-40T. I'm guessing there's quite some gaps in between the 11-13-15-17 cogs. I want to mix the CS-5800 cassette with the MX8 cassette. So i'll try get : 14-15-16-17-19-21-24-28-32-36-40T (instead of 11-13-15-17-19-21-24-28-32-36-40). Can I do that? Do i need to adjust something else? Thanks for your response. Great video btw!
Hmm im not sure it would work just because the 14t sprocket does not have the serrated grippers for the lock ring to grip into. Also it depends on if that 14t sprocket has a spacer built into it. I would worry that if it was a loose sprocket and the very end of the freewheel body it might chew into it excessively. No harm in giving it a go if you've got the parts, let me know how it goes.
when you first install the roadlink, before the rear derailleur, how should you align the roadlink? Should it run parallel with the direction of the existing hanger? Or kink slightly towards the ground (i think this is what yours does)? I wasn't sure if you did this intentionally or you just threw it on like that.
Ohh gosh this was so long ago I’m not 100% certain. I think there’s a feature in the shape of the road link that picks up on the original derailleur hanger where the B screw would normally meet. This give it the correct alignment so you can’t get it wrong. Might be worth checking the wolf tooth website
@@MozOnBikes Thanks you are right! there's a little ledge, totally missed that when I was installing mine. If anyone ever stumbles on this comment here are the install instructions: www.wolftoothcomponents.com/pages/roadlink-installation-instructions
@@MozOnBikes I have a 53 39 front, just fitted an 11 34, 10 speed rear with 9 speed MTB derailleur, works great on the stand but a little slow downshifting under load so want to try with my Ultegra short cage. Just ordered a derailleur extender to try.
LOL I thought we were gonna get a secret bonus track or an outtake in the dead space afterwards :-) Joking aside, nice touch indeed with the RoadLink. And 40t!! Impressive. So, July 2020. I'm repeating this RoadLink compatibility question across various TH-cam videos (e.g. GCN with Ollie etc.). Has anyone tried this on 2012 SRAM Force or Red short cage rear mechs? I run 50/34 x 11-28, which is fine. I only want to upgrade to *12-30*. I keep reading that SRAM short cage mechs are not as 'RoadLink friendly' as Shimano ones over 28t. Any thoughts? Many thanks. (I'm probably gonna go ahead and do it anyway, but any advice greatly appreciated.)
I’ve got no experience of SRAM road drivetrain of that vintage so I’m guessing a bit here, but I can’t work out why a road link wouldn’t work still, it’s just relocating the mech lower. I you’re just jumping up from a 28 to a 30 have you considered either maxing out the B screw or changing it out for a longer version. It might give you the additional clearance to the 30 you’re after.
This is fantastic, I can install large cassettes and not worry about having to buy a long cage rear derailleur. I am stoked.
Depending on what shifters your running, you should also check out the new shimano GRX rear derailleur as shifting will be noticeable crisper that with the Wolftooth roadlink.
The manufacturer recommends lightly greasing the threads before installing. In my case, I would periodically switch back periodically; I live in mountain foothiils.
The manufactuer also recommends breaking the cain before installation and evaluating whether your it is still the correct length.
the end credits scene at 5:55 was shocking!
info for people who have SRAM Rival 1 RD.
my 40t cassette wasn't working with a medium-size Rival 1 rear derailleur regardless of WolfTooth Roadlink. I think it's a good solution for a Shimano RD, but not for SRAM RD. As soon as I bought long-size Rival 1 RD everything worked like a champ. Two road bikes, one has 40t cassette another 42t cassette both have SRAM long arm RD's and no problem. Luckily my LBS agreed to give me money back for the roadlink.
What was the issue causing it not to work?
@@MozOnBikes jockey wheel was rubbing last couple of cogs. Yes, roadlink improved the situation a bit, but not to the point I can use it. When I installed the ling cage, it worked beautifully. I think Shimano RD mech works better with the roadlink.
I have a Sram Rival 11 speed groupset. I want to put a 11-40 cassette in the back. What rear derailleur do I need?
great tutorial...
did you change a longer chain? thank you & more power
no!
Do you have to be on a 50/34 with that 11-40 cassette? Because Im still on 53/36. Was that a short cage you were using?
Probably easier to mount the wolf tooth to the der than install on the dropout?
what's your derailleur on the vid and how many teeth the cogs does?
Does it work with built in hanger? Im planning to put road link on my titanium frame
Yep. My Alivio 3x8 can climb like a goat using 11-40 from an 11-30 8spd. I also got a longer B Screw so I could adjust the thing from chattering.
Hi i have 52/36 front Ultegra R8000 crank with 11/28 cassette in rear with SRAM Etap 11 speed RD it's Standard short cage version want to have 11-34 or 11-32 atleast for better hill climbing. Let me know will just b tension screw and longer chain swap will work or do I need Roadlink wolftooth or similar. Thank you
Great video man,really ...thank you for all the work and questions you answer...I have a dilemma that pbly you have an answer...I have dura ace 7900 10 speed with 11 28 and 53 39. I have at home a wolf tooth link and wonder how can I increase my climbing gear range ... swapping the 39 in the front for a 36 ...or get a cassette in the back with a new chain 11 40 ?or 11 32 ?...thx in advance
Hi mozz, Me again how many links did you use on this setup?
Hi Julie, not 100% sure but, I have a feeling that i'm using 110 links. Pretty sure the new chain Installed came with 114 links and I removed 4.
Great video, What rear cassette are you using thanks steve
+thesheepman220 Thanks man, just trying to help people out and have fun on bikes. The cassette I'm using is a Sunrace MS3 11-40 ten speed.
Just finished fitting one to my Super-Six. 11-32 ten-speed cassette. Working like a charm with a 105 short-cage mech’. Tried a long-cage last year and just couldn’t get it to work to my satisfaction. This is great though. Many thanks...👍
Hey Bill, I’ve floated between a long cage and short cage 105 mechs. The 105 certainly felt more positive and crisper in my experience also. I’ve been running mine with a single chainring and a wide range cassette so the long cage was way more the the chain capacity I needed, so went back to short.
Hi Bill, just saw your comment. I have a 105 short cage and a 11-25 cassette ...wich is to hard in the mountains/hills :-) . As i understand i only need the adapter and a new cassette 11-32 or 11-34 ...and perhaps a new chain? Am i right? THX in advance....Michael
@@michaelheckhuis8342 :_ That should do it. I'm not a tech though so check out you-tube...
One question. What if you have intergrated hook for rear derailleur? Is it same or not?
A GCN video said you have to have a clutch on the RD when using a 1-by, I think they said for reasons of chain tension when going to the small cog. However it seems that people are doing 1--by without a clutch RD. I was just thinking though that they might have said to use a clutch to avoid chain slap. Do you think that could be the case?
Yeah I get a bit of chain slap with the 10 speed 105 if I’m in the 11 or 12 tooth end of the cassette and stop peddling abruptly. I’ve got the the new 10 speed tiagra on my caadx and it doesn’t have this issue. Seems to me like some of the older mechs have weak tension springs
Arahorn I made this conversion with my Merida silex shimano 105. Chain slap was noticable plus few chain drops. Got myself ultegra RX (clutch road derailleur , available from this summer) rear deraileur 90 euros plus gave me possibility to install 11-34 ultegra casette instead of 11-28, almost no loss in gears.
you can always wrap an old tube on the chain stay and ta-da!
R U running a single front ring or compact set?
+LuisManuelHdez I'm running mine with a single ring
@@MozOnBikes I'm planning the same setup on my bike, I also have a 105 rear mech. No problem with chain drop if the mech doesn't have a clutch?
Nice background music. What's name of song, album, artist...
I used Wolftooth road link. There web page is easy to navigate; however, they didn't recommend Triplet but that's what I'm using...
12-36 has good range of high & low gears...
12,13,15,17 good high end minus 14t cog
28,32,36 good low end for hills
To upgrade or not?
I was debating on whether or not to spend $4600 + $460 tax for new 2017/18 Paris Roubaix Expert + ~$2000 more for clipless pedals, Garmin, etc... The 2017/18 Paris Roubaix Expert is truly a beautiful bike, with a lot of new technology...
However, I decided to keep that money and upgraded my 2008 Paris Roubaix Expert Triplet instead, which already has clipless & Garmin and only had to add 12-36 cassette, RD hanger & new chain : $133 vs $5000-$7000 for new bike and accessories...
I suspect there's no paved roads I won't be able to climb with 36t in rear and 24t in front, bike only weighs 18-20 lbs, plus I still have fast gears for down hills and flats...
Chain Rings Ultegra:
52-39-30 before
52-39-24 now
Cassettes:
11-28: 11-12-13-14-15-17-19-21-24-28 Ultegra CS6700 original
12-30: 12-13-14-15-17-19-21-24-27-30 Ultegra CS6700 - now
12-36: 12-13-##-15-17-19-22-25-28-32-36 SRAM PG-1070 going to
Parts Added / Swapped In
Shimano 24T... : Chain Ring Cog
Shimano CN-6701 : Ultegra chain
Shimano CS-6700 : Ultegra 12-30
Shimano M772 : XT RD
SO Roadlink RD hanger for 12-36
If for some reason 36 is overkill I'll go to 12-32 as majority of my riding occurs between 13,14,15,17.
I suspect I'll miss 14 cog when going to 12-36...
List of upgrades ( see 1st, 2nd 3rd )
11-28: 11-12-13-14-15-17-19-21-24-28 1st
12-30: 12-13-14-15-17-19-21-24-27-30 2nd
12-32: 12-13-14-15-17-19-22-25-28-32
12-36: 12-13-##-15-17-19-22-25-28-32-36 3rd
+S G be carful that your rear mech has enough capacity to take up all that chain. I'm not sure there's a mech out there that can handle that much officially
Moz On Bikes
You're correct...
Following is what works and I never get confused nor is it a problem because some crossovers simply do not make sense...
There's no need for me to be in 24 / 12, 13, 15, 17, 19 as 24 is only for climbing with 25, 28, 32, 36
Same applies for 53. There's no need for 53 / 25, 28, 32, 36 though it can shift into those gears mechanically, there's no need for that combination as I use 53 primarily for flats and speed
53 works ( can shift into any of the gears on the cassethe 12-36 ); however, I only use it with following: 12,13,15,17,19 only.
39 works with all: the gears and is where I ride majority of the time...
39 / 12,13,15,17,19,22,25,28,32,36
39 / 12, 13 with good cadence is pretty fast ( 20 to 25 miles )
Hey There,
Your videos are great and helpful. I have converted my Shimano 105 Groupset to the DIY 1x version by removing the bigger crank, and finally got rid of that front derailleur.
Now I'm looking to modify it with 11-42 . Do you think this set-up is possible with wolftooth and Shimano 105?
Cheers
Josh
If I'm only using one chain ring (34T) will I need a longer chain for a 11-36 Conversion?
Hmm I don’t think I would trust a standard inner chainring with the pins and rams designed to make shifter chainring easy.
I’m running an 11-40 with a 105 and wolftooth, so yes.
From what you’ve told me, there’s a chance that you might need to shorten your chain rather than make it longer.
Hi Moz, Thanks fot your reply. I did not get this part below.
'Hmm I don’t think I would trust a standard inner chainring with the pins and rams designed to make shifter chainring easy.'
I'm also looking to swap my 34T 105 Chainring to a Narrow wide chainring version.
Cheers!
Josh
i have question regarding b screw.i run a 40 tooth cassette and recently change my gear lever to indexed thumb shifter.i had to unscrew the b screw to get it shifting well.shifting is now perfect but i get occasional slippage of the chain.chain does feel looser in the smaller cogs.is this due to the unscrewed b screw and can i risk taking out 1 link say to get the tension back but keep the great shifting.
Well removing excess links in the chain is a good place to start.
This is a bit of an old video now with outdated drivetrain really. The 10 speed 105 rear mech all have really weak tension, I tried many other things to try an increase the tension available Including dismantling the rear mech to increase the tension in the coil spring.
I think what happens is that with larger cassettes they have a lot more rotation inertia by the time they get down to the smaller cogs in comparison to a traditional road 11-28. When you pedal the bike up to speed and abruptly stop peddling the inertia built up in the cassette overcome what little tension is left in the rear derailleur in the small cogs and keep rotating forward giving a loose feeling.
Have you noticed the chain becoming loose across its top length and maybe touching the chainnstay?
Now rear derailleur designed to work with wide range cassette are available with clutches I think it’s easier to do these conversations rather than use compromised work arounds like the road link.
Does it matter exactly where the wolf tooth ends up. mine will swing back and forward when loose. is there a position its supposed to be in? My first hard drive it moved on me when shifting so i had to stop and get off then tighten it up then i road softer home was scared i was going to wrap my derailleur around.
Should be pressed up against the b screw stop and torqued up. It shouldn’t move at all once installed
Perfect tutorial thank you.
I have one on a Giant Propel with a 11-40 cassette and it works well, I also have a TA Specialties 33 tooth small chainring on the front that I bought of Wiggle.
what derailleur are you using?
Hi, I thought the road link is supposed to work with long cage (or medium cage) rear derailleur setups? Is that maybe why you are having trouble with the chain tension?
+Wai Lee well it all depends on how much chain you need to take up. The short cage is fine on the 11-40 cassette with a single front chainring in that respect. Saying that in did buy a long cage rear mech to try and alleviate the issue but with no luck.
Moz On Bikes ok thanks for that. I've got a short Ultegra Di2 derailleur (with a semi crankset) and was thinking of adding an 11-40 and maybe swapping the rear mech to the GS...do you think that would work no problem?
+Wai Lee I'm not sure what the chain capacity of the ultegra Di2 is off the top of my head. Basically you need to work out the tooth difference between the cross chaining big chainring with (40t in your case)big cassette and small chainring small cassette (11t) and take the small number away from the big to work out total chain slack. Then you can check in the shimano website for the capacity of your rear mech to see if it can soak up that chain slack.
My gut feeling is that you'll need a gs at a minimum with a semi compact chainset and even that might not be enough.
wondering if someone can help
Current setup is dura-ace 7900 groupset (minus rear D)
with FD 7900 dura-ace front derailleur
with 105 RD 5701 short cage rear derailleur 
SG-x 53-b. Outter
Sg-x 10s 39-b Inner
11-28 cassette
my 105 short cage is supposed to b able to handle up to a 11 -30 cassette
im wondering if i use the wolf tooth if i can hit 11 - 34? or at worst 11 - 32... i really need the help with the low gear ratio for the hills
Feel like you need to find out the chain slack capacity your rear derailleur, that will then answer your question of what cassettes you can use.
I currently have a 11-36 thinking of getting a 10-50 cassette will this adapter work?
Nope. But it’s an old video now, tech has moved on a little. I would have thought something similar would’ve been made by now.
It's a good idea to extend the drop on the derailleur but £30 / $30 / €30 for that small piece of metal is a bit much, don't you think?
Yeah it’s not cheap, but it’s a bit of a niche product so I would expect them to sell 10s of thousands per year. This it limits your manufacturing techniques available and they are going to favour a process that’s they have machines for already. A little nugget of cnc aluminium that’s anodised then laser etched plus a bolt that’s also custom made for the part all manufacturers in the western world, plus some margins for them self and the bike shop…30 isn’t bad really.
Saying all that, now a few years later I think you can find cheaper alternative that are cast or stamped for maybe £12-15 that’s are made in how knows where and with what quality and health a safety for the workers.
Not much videos on a roadlink with a Shimano GRX neither 810 and 812. Is it process the same to this 105's? Thanks.
Not sure why you’d want to add a road link to a GRX unless you were trying to use a massive Eagle like cassette.
The installation process should be the same but you might end up with the rear mech not being able to take up the additional slack from such a large cassette.
@@MozOnBikes GRX 1by run 42t max. A 52t or a 50t would've been great.
@@Proteeps thats why i avoided the new FX6..... they run 40 up front and 11-42 in the back with grx and its NOT enough help up the hills
ended up with the fx3 with 40 up front and 11 46 in the back with deore derailleur and its a perfect low and high combo ratio
I'm currently on 5700 105 short mech with a 32 cassette on the back without an extender, it runs perfectly even in 50/32 ( just to test it).. if I put an extender on and got to a 36 cassette... How many extra links do I need in my chain???
Well to keep the status quo you would need to add 4 links, I’m not sure the extender requires any additional links. What you might need to double check is the link capacity the short cage mech. You might find that it can’t take up the slack in the chain in the 32-11 or that or that the chain is too tight in the 50-36. Wooftooths website is a good place to double check what is possible.
The 5700 SS is max 28T according to Shimano documents. Have you the B screw all the way in to get the 32 sprocket to work? Can you safely run the 50 on the front and the 32 at the rear without a problem? I also have the 5700 short mech on a 12/27 cassette which I want to swap for a 12/30 for better climbing. From what research I've done so far I need a new derailleur, cassette and longer chain. But with this wolftooth I can avoid all that and only replace the cassette? Is that correct?
compatible for microshift xcd RD-M85L?
I've not seen it done before as Microshift are pretty rare. Buut I guess the hanger thread is the same so at a guess it might work.
Yes, they are compatible.
Hey Moz, new question, did you add a 1.85 spacer installing the sunrace cassette?
Cheers
Hi Joshua, no but only as I have a 10 speed cassette body hacked on to my Zipp 30s as the original 11 speed cassette body shat its self as one of the bearings seized after 18 months use. (Zipp 30 are awful over priced crap wheels, avoid them at all costs). So no i didnt use a spacers, but on most road wheels from the last 3-4 years will need a spacer to fit a mountain bike cassette on a road wheel be it 10 or 11 speed.
So simple, thank you so much
perfect. that's the set up I will use....never seen anyone do it with the sunrace 11-40. 10 speed right?
Yes its 10 speed, I think the cassettes are quite new out. Its not quite perfect, I seem to get a little chain slap in the 11 tooth when i stop pedalling, im not sure that the free hub in on my zipps is quite strong enough full to control the weight of the larger cassettes.
Still its waaaaay better than a front mech and all the problems that they cause!
I'm planning on climbing some pretty crazy hills this summer so this is perfect. thank you.
is this a short cage rear derailleur?
Justmyopinionlol yes in on my bike it is a short cage. I run a single chainring so can get away with it as I don’t have the additional slack 2 front rings make.
Do you have to add Chain links?
All depends on what derailleur/cassette/chainring combos you are running. Shimano and Sram websites are the best for checking the chain capacity of the rear derailleur, from that you should be able to work out is you need to add or remove links.
@@MozOnBikes Thanks, 9000 rear mech 👍🏻
how's the shifting performance?
+perwiratempur seem pretty much exactly the same to me. No noticeable difference
Brilliant. I'm just about to fit one.Thanks !!
Do you need a longer chain?
Definitely maybe, it really depends on what you’re doing with your chainring/s. For instance, I’ve changed from a 2x to a 1x so it was a bit of a wash chain length wise.
Generally adding a say 11-42 cassette and you’ll need to add some links to maintain being able to shift into the 42 on the cassette and remain in the big chainring, but you’ll probably find out that the derailleur will not have the chain link absorbing capacity to then run the 11 in the cassette and the in small chainring. There’s a bit of maths to work out the balancing needed for what your trying to achieve gearing wise.
@@MozOnBikes thanks 32 should be good!
The Misfits - Crazy Old Tyme Music 32 tooth chainring?!?
@@MozOnBikes Yes, I think that is the max you can put on a short cage derailleur. It should work for me. Is there a huge difference between a 28T and 32T for keeping a high cadence up climbs?
Yeah for sure it’ll defo be noticeable
"Install the link into position." WHAT position??
Lovely vid, helped me out!
Would it work with a campy athena derailleur ?
Hmm I have no experience with campy so it’s hard to say. Best check the wolftooth website for compatibility.
Hi
I am running 3x10s 11-36t. Is it possible to uograde my cassette from 11-36t to 11-42t and keep 3x10s system? Thank you
Maybe, it all depends how much capacity your rear mech has in chain links to take up the slack. Calculate big chainring + largest cassette gear and the subtract smallest chainring and smallest gear to work out the number of slack links in the chain. You can then look up your rear mech on the manufactures website to see to the capacity the rear mech has in terms of slack links.
@@MozOnBikes I am not really sure what type of rear mech is. I found specs of my bike on internet and in the description is written: deore xt rd-m781 shadow etc.
Have a look on the shimano website for that code, it’ll give you the specifications
Hi there im planning my ultegra 6800 11-32 cassette to converR11-40 using xt m8000 CASSETE it is Ok without adding chain links or using my existing chain same length (TIA)
+James Paul Tenasas You'll probably need to add some chain links, you need to work out the chain slack capacity of your rear mech (you can find this on the manufacturer website) and account for the difference in teeth of your chainset.
But it's good practice to change your chain the same time as the cassette, so that's what I would do.
Also don't forget that mountain bike cassettes are narrower on the free hub so you will need a 1.8mm spacer.
Moz On Bikes glad to know my doubts on chain sorted out. i was thinking either road link or med cage xt m8000. thanks
+James Paul Tenasas it has to be the road link. 11speed shimano road shifters don't pull enough cable per click to index an 11speed shimano rear mech. I'd be running a clutch m8000 if it was so!
Are there not different pull ratios on Mtb and Road cassettes to consider?
+lester fontaine Well using a wolftooth roadlink enables the use of a road shifter and derailleur on a wide range cassette, negating the issue of the different pull ratios between mtb and road.
Moz On Bikes but does an MTB cassette have slightly different spacing than a road cassette. Rendering the pull ratio on a road shifter out of sync on the MTB cassette regardless of derailleur position?
The spacing between each cog is the same on 10 speed systems between road and mtb (11 speed road and mtb are a little differnt 3.7mm to 3.9mm but im my experiece it still work, see my venge with an 11 speed XT cassette). There is however a difference in the size of shimano style freehubs. 10 and 11 speed mtb cassettes use the older 10 speed size freehub because of the larger size of the low ratio they can dish towards the hub centre without catching spokes. When using an 11 speed mtb cassette on an 11speed road freehub you need to use a 1.8mm spacer behind the cassette, just like you would using an 10 speed road cassette on a 11 speed road freehub. I hope that makes sense.
Moz On Bikes so it’s the derailleur that has a different ratio, I.e XT rear mech, different pull ratio to an Ultegra rear mech?
Sort of. The cable pull is defined by the shifter and you have to pair that to a rear mech which matches the cable pull, so one click of cable pull at the shifter equals 1 cogs worth of movement from the rear mech. Its not all about ratios. There are some hacks out there like, 9 speed sram mtb shifters on 10 speed shimano rear mechs on 9 speed cassettes, that just about work but is not perfect, I actually ran that set up a couple of years ago as a zee rear mech was way cheaper that a 9 speed X9.
Basic rule is 11 speed shimano road shifters with Shimano 11 speed rear mechs.
10 speed shimano road shifters with Shimano 10 speed rear mechs.
The latest shimano Tiagra 10 speed has its own distinct pull ratio I believe and it not cross compatible with old 10 speed or new 11 speed systems.
Shimano cable Road and MTB systems are not cross compatible although apparently you can mix and match with Di2.
SRAM 11 speed road and MTB systems are cross compatible, but theres no need as they do the CX rear mechs for wide range. But if you did want to, you need to add an inline cable adjuster onto on a road bike with a mtb rear mech as they adjust cable pull at the shifter on the MTB triggers.
hi your rear mech looks like a ss/short cage right? if so perfect as i dont want to use a GS rear mech
Hi Julie, yes that is a 105 short cage rear mech. It shifts through all the gear fine but its not quite perfect as theres not much tension on the chain in the high ratios like 11 and 12. So when you're peddling fast in these gears and stop and coast occasionally you hear the chain clink the chain stay as there's not enough dynamic tension in the system. I thought I might have had a freewheel issue for a while but after swapping wheels last weekend its defo down to the short cage mech. I'm going to try and film a video on this issue today and also try an even longer B tension screw to add more tension into the system.
So in summery, yes a 105 short cage works but not 100% perfect. Saying that other short cage rear mechs might be better.
Hi mozz, thanks for the reply, what about if you put a longer B screw?
Hi Julie, I tried a longer B screw at the weekend and it made very little difference, I recorded how the chain goes slack in slow motion off my phone and its actually quite alarming! Ill post it up soon. Next thing i'm going to try is to disassemble the mech as after looking through some service videos there are 2 positions the jockey wheel cage spring can live in, i'm hoping to get a little more tension out of the system there.
Great video thanks. I have Dura Ace 7900 which is 10 speed. Largest cassette I can use currently 11-28. Can anyone please give me advice if this Roadlink will work for my groupset. What is the largest size cassette I could use. Also which cassette brand? Thanks so much.
It half depends on what you intend you do with the front chainrings as the cage of the mech has to take up the chain slack from both the front chainrings and the rear cassette so you can work out the total slack created from big big to small small.
You could run a 11-40, maybe a 42 depending on your frame with a single chain ring for sure. With a double up front the chances are that your derailleur won’t be able to absorb that many chain links so maybe like an XT 11-36 would be a good choice.
The best way is to calculate the chain slack with a variety of setups the look at the Shimano website to see what the chainslack capacity of your rear mech is and let that drive the direction your might want to take. Also wolf tooth’s website has some handy tool that might explain your options better last time I checked.
@@MozOnBikes So if i use 5700 rd short cage with 11-36 cassete, it will work well on double chainring?
Can’t say for sure, you need to do the chain slack calculations for your chainring and cassette combo.
what cassette are you using?
+Jude B Its a 10 Speed 11-40 Sunrace MS3. I did a unboxing video of it here th-cam.com/video/QIIGm_j3YRk/w-d-xo.html if it's of interest to you.
What's name of song, album and artist of background music? Very nice...
The is Erykah by Otis McDonald, its a licence free free download from the youtube creator studio.
Moz On Bikes
Thanks...
Excellent informative video
you know shimano has a tension spring on it! hi and low! they come from the factory on low for smoother shifting!!!!!! their are two holes for the spring!
did you change the chain?
I did, but I did a total drive train replacement with new chainrings, cassette, chain, plus wolftooth roadlink. My advise is to use a chain checking tool for to see how worn your chain is and calculate you have enough links in the chain for the conversion before buying a new chain. But then again, chains are quite cheap for base models and if your spending a load of cash on a big mtb cassette and roadlink its not a bad investment.
Onde voce conseguiu comprar esta coroa 42??
Assuming google translate worked. It’s an 11-40 Sunrace 10 speed cassette
Are all roadlinks the same?
Roadlinks are made by a company called Wolftooth. As far as I know they only make one version of the roadlink. Check their website.
Ok thanks. Say champ, i`m looking at installing an 11-34 (10 speed) cassette on a roadbike. Would you happen to know if ANY Ultegra RDs would fit the bill for such a "large" cassette? I am of course trying to figure out if i can do without a roadlink.
Hmm, I’m not sure any of the 10 speed Ultegra will work, but I’ve got the latest version of 10 speed Tiagra on my cannondale cx bike and that handles an 11-36 just without any roadlink type devise. Might be worth investing to see if any of the 11 speed rear mechs work with 10 speed shifters, I suspect the latest shadow rear mechs might handle a 34 cassette.
Annoyingly the latest 10 speed tiagra has a different cable pull per gear to all the other shimano 10 speed systems so it’s not cross compatible.
Hmm, i have absolutely no idea if that stunt would work, but i`ve heard that the new R8000 11 speed RD will tackle a 34T cassette. Too much money to spend just to find out, lol. I`d rather not go anything lower than Ultegra since the rest of the set up is Ultegra. I`ve already acquired the new Ultegra R8000 11 speed crankset (50-34) which works in combination with a 10 speed cassette & chain. I am currently considering a 10 speed XTR 11-34 cassette, but the derailleurs i would like to be Ultegra. What about long cages, Ultegra only have short and mid cage RDs, even the old ones? I`m not sure we`re on the same page here. I am doing a flat bar conversion, so i am looking at flat bar shifters specifically. I`ve gotten quite a few tips on the Tiagra SL 4700 shifters. Also i understand i would need a short pull brake lever set for use with road calipers. I still don`t know how cable pull relates for shifters, just that i need flat bar shifters for the road deraillleurs :)
If your doing a flat bar conversion just go with shimano XT, it’ll have no problem at all with the 34 cassette! I think the an ultegra front mech is cross compatible with the mtb shifters, but that’s worth checking. Or check that the xt front mech can work with the larger ultegra chainrings sizes.
Regarding cable pull on shifters, it’s similar to brake levers. It just means that shimano 10 and 11 speed need a different amount of mm cable pull per click to move the mech 1 gear. It’s a bit of a mine field to be honest!
Did you have to do any spacing of the cassette, since its for mtb? Or just swapped then out?
+Felix Neudörfer Hi, yes a 1.8mm spacer was needed behind the cassette on the 11speed road freehub body of my Zipp wheels.
I'm going to do the same thing tomorrow.
However I have a small question.
Now I have a CS-5800 cassette ranging 11-32T
I've bought a MX8 ranging from 11-40T.
I'm guessing there's quite some gaps in between the 11-13-15-17 cogs.
I want to mix the CS-5800 cassette with the MX8 cassette.
So i'll try get : 14-15-16-17-19-21-24-28-32-36-40T (instead of 11-13-15-17-19-21-24-28-32-36-40).
Can I do that? Do i need to adjust something else? Thanks for your response.
Great video btw!
Hmm im not sure it would work just because the 14t sprocket does not have the serrated grippers for the lock ring to grip into. Also it depends on if that 14t sprocket has a spacer built into it. I would worry that if it was a loose sprocket and the very end of the freewheel body it might chew into it excessively.
No harm in giving it a go if you've got the parts, let me know how it goes.
Great video, but it really comes into its own at 3:35 ;)
btw whats the background music? awesome track my wife likes it
The song is called Erykah by Otis McDonald. Its free in the youtube creator studio!
when you first install the roadlink, before the rear derailleur, how should you align the roadlink? Should it run parallel with the direction of the existing hanger? Or kink slightly towards the ground (i think this is what yours does)? I wasn't sure if you did this intentionally or you just threw it on like that.
Ohh gosh this was so long ago I’m not 100% certain. I think there’s a feature in the shape of the road link that picks up on the original derailleur hanger where the B screw would normally meet. This give it the correct alignment so you can’t get it wrong.
Might be worth checking the wolf tooth website
@@MozOnBikes Thanks you are right! there's a little ledge, totally missed that when I was installing mine. If anyone ever stumbles on this comment here are the install instructions: www.wolftoothcomponents.com/pages/roadlink-installation-instructions
Is that an 11 40 on a short cage derailleur?
It is but only just! Have to run it 1x to make it work. Saying all that this hack is a little bit legacy these day with GRX release.
@@MozOnBikes I have a 53 39 front, just fitted an 11 34, 10 speed rear with 9 speed MTB derailleur, works great on the stand but a little slow downshifting under load so want to try with my Ultegra short cage. Just ordered a derailleur extender to try.
Great tutorial..Thank you.
LOL I thought we were gonna get a secret bonus track or an outtake in the dead space afterwards :-)
Joking aside, nice touch indeed with the RoadLink. And 40t!! Impressive.
So, July 2020. I'm repeating this RoadLink compatibility question across various TH-cam videos (e.g. GCN with Ollie etc.).
Has anyone tried this on 2012 SRAM Force or Red short cage rear mechs?
I run 50/34 x 11-28, which is fine. I only want to upgrade to *12-30*. I keep reading that SRAM short cage mechs are not as 'RoadLink friendly' as Shimano ones over 28t. Any thoughts? Many thanks. (I'm probably gonna go ahead and do it anyway, but any advice greatly appreciated.)
I’ve got no experience of SRAM road drivetrain of that vintage so I’m guessing a bit here, but I can’t work out why a road link wouldn’t work still, it’s just relocating the mech lower.
I you’re just jumping up from a 28 to a 30 have you considered either maxing out the B screw or changing it out for a longer version. It might give you the additional clearance to the 30 you’re after.
Were you a Deftones fan in the 2000's by chance? I forget which CD they had like 40 mins of dead space before a secret track lol
5:56 and the beat drops, hahaha!
Excellent
you must have to lengthen the chain
youre a god thank you
buy this Shimano Ultegra R8000 11 Speed Rear Mech Medium Cage does not need road link it has longer b screw
Even for a 40 or 42t large cassette?
Moz On Bikes I got on my road bike but running 11-40 xt you need the 1.85 mm spacer
ashley scarth or buy Ultegra RX800 with a clutch and up to 34T big cog and no chain slap.
Nice info.
Top!!
Do i need a longer chain after installing this ?