1) Lay a ruler next to your object 2) Take a photo from your object 3) Import it into Fusion 4) Calibrate the photo with the ruler 5) Draw the sketch exactly how in method nr. 3 in the video with lines and splines 6) extrude the sketch and subtract it from your gridfinity base All of this is easy doable in fusion without the need of 2-3 different softwares …
Another option for getting scale from a picture, is if you include the piece of paper, the paper itself is a standard size. For regular letter paper its 8.5"x11", and you can find the dimensions of all other standard size sheets online.
@@GmanL18P That corrects well for one dimension along its own line and adds a tool unless you can align the camera perfectly paralell and trust its objective distortion, the paper already contains 4 known sizes. Also the bigger the reference the better.
@@RyoHazuki224Well, buying a second hand all in one is incredibly cheap. I've bought one for 10 Euro. Spent another 10 for some knock off cartridges and I have a fully functional all in one.
I just wanted to thank you for the video tutorial. It took me 4 hours and trying two of the methods to get this figured out. I’ve never 3D modeled anything before so I’d say that’s pretty good, But, I was finally able to make a custom gridfinity box for an Amazon special HDMI input switcher. The “banana for scale” tracing method worked best for me. I had some issues with the site referenced for the tape measure method when creating the svg. I’m excited to do a whole drawer of custom prints. Can’t wait for my printer to arrive!
Man, for $100 that Shaper Trace tool is a massive time-saver. That was an instant buy after you mentioned that. TO SCALE, and auto-trace of outline OR center-line. That's super useful for anyone dealing with vector files. Hopefully they'll make an app that doesn't need the cloud to make it perfect, but if you value your time that's a great find.
YES DUDE! I have been playing with Tinkercad and a handful of other programs and wasn't having a ton of success. I was trying to do exactly this - make a custom Gridfinity tray for a specific tool. This was the walkthrough I needed.
You can also use the paper itself for size reference (the bigger the the reference the more accurate it gets). Start with "document scanner" apps that can correct for the perspective distortions and optionally they can cut out the surplus from the edges (dark background and flat paper helps a lot). Printing a dark frame for the paper might make it easier, but I got away with simply ironing the sheet.. Then you have a fairly true shape, you can load it and correct for the size like you did but using the let's say A/4 paper's size or simply set the image size to A/4 and start scaling the image till the dark edges disappear from the image. But seeing your ShaperTrace's concept - now I can't shoo the thought that is probably also 3D printable.
You could also scan the image in a standard scanner with a steel rule on the bed too and import as a canvas to fusion and trace in there. You have to calibrate the canvas though for which you can use the rule.
Yes! The ruler is a much better option than the 2cm cube - it reduces error, as it is much larger. If you’re off by 0.1mm on your 20mm cube, you’re potentially off by 1mm or more on your large object size (assuming your object is about the size of the width of a sheet of paper). Just using a 15cm ruler you’re reducing your error by 7.5 times compared to the cube method.
Nice tutorial and thanks for the shout out to my model in makerworld. I'm in the middle of organizing items in my Kobalt workbench too and the tips in your video and very helpful!
Believe it or not you're one step away from making your own molds. You need to apply this method to some custom-made 3D printed molds. Awesome job BTW!
After I print my tray, my part never fits in the cutout because the cutouts too small even though I use the original objects, STL as a hole. I do increase the size, but obviously not enough. Is there a recommended percentage that would apply to most objects?
Hi , I would love to see you test the new Anycubic Kobra S1 Combo soon. It looks like an exciting printer with its multi-color printing capabilities and AI features, but it would be great to see your expert take on it. Thanks for all the great content you share!”
With these kind of tolerances it doesn't really matter and taking a photo of a traced, flat outline helps also. But as some have mentioned, taking a photo of an object that close creates parallax error, which in turn doesn't translate well to a gridfinity bin (ask me how I know 😅)
Years ago filament Friday made a video with a similar problem and he used a photocopy machine just to get the outline of the object you needed to reproduce
@UncleJessy To make it even easier, i.e. without paper etc., you can also simply place the part on a document scanner. This means you don't have to pay so much attention to taking the photo as accurately as possible from above, because the scanner takes care of that.
Hi, great video. I obviously went for the Tracer Tool :-D this works great, yet when I import the svg to TinkerCAD it tells me that the SVG is *huge* and too big to work with, so I basically need to scale it myself. I was wondering whether I am doing sth wrong since I assumed the SVG would pick the right scale automatically?
It seems that uploading SVG's to TinkerCAD always have to be re-scaled. So, like I wonder if there is just some sort of default scaling percentage that needs to be done for every SVG file that you noticed? So say like you have your 20mm cube done in an image editing app, scaled to what the app thinks is 20mm, but once saved as SVG and loaded into Tinkercad, it comes in too large and you have to shrink it by say, 15%. What I'm saying is, if we can figure out what the scale difference from your image editor to tinkercad is, you can just shrink your image by that amount before exporting the SVG, so that in Tinkercad you dont have to also go and mess with the scaling difference.
so i have a elegoo neptune 3 max and i got it right after seeing you're video, but Ive had problems ever since like the extruding and bed adhesion and under extrusion and most times its coming out squishy so would it be possible to see what settings you had for that specific printer cuz the quality difference im getting is extreme?
My biggest question, how in the WORLD are you getting your Neptune to print that close to the edge of the bed without warping up? I've tried so many filaments, so many settings, and nothing ever seemed to keep the edges from warping.
The SVG Scaling issue on import is pretty annoying - I don't know how photopea is defining theirs, but this happened a lot when I was exporting from illustrator and importing to cad tools like Easel. 96 vs 72 units per inch (so I'd have to scale to 4/3, or shrink to 3/4. Or sometimes scale to 5/4 (old versions of inkscape maybe?)).
Ok, for once this "project" really look to me as a "i have a 3d printer, i don't use it, quick i need to justify having one even if it is to waste plastic". This is a perfect example of why so many people buy 3d printers and let them rot after a few days.
You can see like as soon as he starts talking he shuts his eyes so you see it, and then he like shuts his eyes for longer than normal and more often than normal. Must be some weird tick or something he's always been self-conscious about so acts like that.
Merry Xmas! Having fun experimenting with some different ways of designing custom inserts!
Thank you for your great videos :)
1) Lay a ruler next to your object
2) Take a photo from your object
3) Import it into Fusion
4) Calibrate the photo with the ruler
5) Draw the sketch exactly how in method nr. 3 in the video with lines and splines
6) extrude the sketch and subtract it from your gridfinity base
All of this is easy doable in fusion without the need of 2-3 different softwares …
Super helpful Ty!
But that would require me to know how fusion works :D
One tip on making a photo: try to do it from as far away possible. Closer proximity tends to give more of a fish eye effect.
Another option for getting scale from a picture, is if you include the piece of paper, the paper itself is a standard size. For regular letter paper its 8.5"x11", and you can find the dimensions of all other standard size sheets online.
Use small ruler next to the object. Calibrate the scale using the ruler.
@@GmanL18Pthis is what I do. Take my picture on a cutting mat with rulers printed on it. That or I place a quarter next to my object
@@GmanL18P That corrects well for one dimension along its own line and adds a tool unless you can align the camera perfectly paralell and trust its objective distortion, the paper already contains 4 known sizes. Also the bigger the reference the better.
Instead of using your phone to take a picture you can use a flat bed scanner, it won't have any distortion problems and should be to scale.
I watched the whole video and hoped that he might still say that :D haha
Who has a flatbed scanner these days? People dont even use all-in-one inkjet printers anymore, it seems! haha
@@RyoHazuki224Well, buying a second hand all in one is incredibly cheap. I've bought one for 10 Euro. Spent another 10 for some knock off cartridges and I have a fully functional all in one.
I just wanted to thank you for the video tutorial. It took me 4 hours and trying two of the methods to get this figured out. I’ve never 3D modeled anything before so I’d say that’s pretty good, But, I was finally able to make a custom gridfinity box for an Amazon special HDMI input switcher. The “banana for scale” tracing method worked best for me. I had some issues with the site referenced for the tape measure method when creating the svg. I’m excited to do a whole drawer of custom prints. Can’t wait for my printer to arrive!
Awesome video! I love using my XL to add a TPU liner in the middle of the container for cushion
Man, for $100 that Shaper Trace tool is a massive time-saver. That was an instant buy after you mentioned that. TO SCALE, and auto-trace of outline OR center-line. That's super useful for anyone dealing with vector files. Hopefully they'll make an app that doesn't need the cloud to make it perfect, but if you value your time that's a great find.
YES DUDE! I have been playing with Tinkercad and a handful of other programs and wasn't having a ton of success. I was trying to do exactly this - make a custom Gridfinity tray for a specific tool. This was the walkthrough I needed.
You can also use the paper itself for size reference (the bigger the the reference the more accurate it gets).
Start with "document scanner" apps that can correct for the perspective distortions and optionally they can cut out the surplus from the edges (dark background and flat paper helps a lot).
Printing a dark frame for the paper might make it easier, but I got away with simply ironing the sheet..
Then you have a fairly true shape, you can load it and correct for the size like you did but using the let's say A/4 paper's size or simply set the image size to A/4 and start scaling the image till the dark edges disappear from the image.
But seeing your ShaperTrace's concept - now I can't shoo the thought that is probably also 3D printable.
You could also scan the image in a standard scanner with a steel rule on the bed too and import as a canvas to fusion and trace in there. You have to calibrate the canvas though for which you can use the rule.
Yes! The ruler is a much better option than the 2cm cube - it reduces error, as it is much larger. If you’re off by 0.1mm on your 20mm cube, you’re potentially off by 1mm or more on your large object size (assuming your object is about the size of the width of a sheet of paper). Just using a 15cm ruler you’re reducing your error by 7.5 times compared to the cube method.
Great video! When scaling in TinkerCAD you can make your reference cube transparent by pressing the T key. It'll make resizing the reference easier.
Nice tutorial and thanks for the shout out to my model in makerworld. I'm in the middle of organizing items in my Kobalt workbench too and the tips in your video and very helpful!
I usually just throw the objects on the flatbed scanner with a ruler at the edge
Brilliant thank you!
Not a fan of Fusion???? Dude, it's dope AF for stuff like this. Not too hard to learn the basics either.
Seriously. Watching him do this in tinkercad hurt my brain 🙃
Thanks for the video. I now have new ambition to gidfinity everything in my house. :)
Pro tip when taking a picture is to include some measurement in the picture. Small ruler, etc.
Nice tutorial!
I know that getting started with designing solutions specific to your needs can be intimidating. What a great video to get people into 3D design!
Believe it or not you're one step away from making your own molds. You need to apply this method to some custom-made 3D printed molds. Awesome job BTW!
I haven’t even watched the first 10 seconds and I want to personally thank you and send you a thank you coffee when can I send the donation!!! ❤🎉❤
I really love your banana for scale that is so nice
The Cool Uncle strikes again. :P Thanks, Jessy!
inkscape, photopea also work
After I print my tray, my part never fits in the cutout because the cutouts too small even though I use the original objects, STL as a hole. I do increase the size, but obviously not enough. Is there a recommended percentage that would apply to most objects?
Hi , I would love to see you test the new Anycubic Kobra S1 Combo soon. It looks like an exciting printer with its multi-color printing capabilities and AI features, but it would be great to see your expert take on it. Thanks for all the great content you share!”
With these kind of tolerances it doesn't really matter and taking a photo of a traced, flat outline helps also. But as some have mentioned, taking a photo of an object that close creates parallax error, which in turn doesn't translate well to a gridfinity bin (ask me how I know 😅)
Years ago filament Friday made a video with a similar problem and he used a photocopy machine just to get the outline of the object you needed to reproduce
@UncleJessy To make it even easier, i.e. without paper etc., you can also simply place the part on a document scanner. This means you don't have to pay so much attention to taking the photo as accurately as possible from above, because the scanner takes care of that.
I have the same tape measure lol nice
Hi, great video. I obviously went for the Tracer Tool :-D this works great, yet when I import the svg to TinkerCAD it tells me that the SVG is *huge* and too big to work with, so I basically need to scale it myself. I was wondering whether I am doing sth wrong since I assumed the SVG would pick the right scale automatically?
It seems that uploading SVG's to TinkerCAD always have to be re-scaled. So, like I wonder if there is just some sort of default scaling percentage that needs to be done for every SVG file that you noticed? So say like you have your 20mm cube done in an image editing app, scaled to what the app thinks is 20mm, but once saved as SVG and loaded into Tinkercad, it comes in too large and you have to shrink it by say, 15%.
What I'm saying is, if we can figure out what the scale difference from your image editor to tinkercad is, you can just shrink your image by that amount before exporting the SVG, so that in Tinkercad you dont have to also go and mess with the scaling difference.
Instead of Tinkercad, you can also use Windows 3D builder for this. Just import your files and then subtract!
so i have a elegoo neptune 3 max and i got it right after seeing you're video, but Ive had problems ever since like the extruding and bed adhesion and under extrusion and most times its coming out squishy so would it be possible to see what settings you had for that specific printer cuz the quality difference im getting is extreme?
What about using Lidar and a 3D scanning app on the iPhone or iPad?
Do you have some white eyelashes?! Thats so cool!
theres an app for phones called microsoft scan, it allows you to get flat shots easier and adjust the corners to be falt etc
6:25 @UncleJessy where did you get the files for the mini saber I would like to know because I would like to make a gridfinity bin for my mini saber
My biggest question, how in the WORLD are you getting your Neptune to print that close to the edge of the bed without warping up? I've tried so many filaments, so many settings, and nothing ever seemed to keep the edges from warping.
The SVG Scaling issue on import is pretty annoying - I don't know how photopea is defining theirs, but this happened a lot when I was exporting from illustrator and importing to cad tools like Easel. 96 vs 72 units per inch (so I'd have to scale to 4/3, or shrink to 3/4. Or sometimes scale to 5/4 (old versions of inkscape maybe?)).
iPhones now have a “scan” feature that will remove the parallax if you dont take the picture directly above
Do a hextraction video
I love Gridfinity, but at some point you're not saving space, you're wasting it.
Basic boxes of different sizes are really all you need.
3D Scanner ? Photogrammetry ?
Ok, for once this "project" really look to me as a "i have a 3d printer, i don't use it, quick i need to justify having one even if it is to waste plastic". This is a perfect example of why so many people buy 3d printers and let them rot after a few days.
It's Pho-topea...it rhymes with Utopia
But how did you do the chicken wing custom bins!?
Blender would of been easier to get this result imo...
My dude, get an adblocker or 3.
What happened to your eye?
fow-TOE-pee-uh, not “foto-pee”.
Is he actually blinking more often than normal just to show you his merrell lash? It's very distracting, but why show it more often. I can't watch
You can see like as soon as he starts talking he shuts his eyes so you see it, and then he like shuts his eyes for longer than normal and more often than normal. Must be some weird tick or something he's always been self-conscious about so acts like that.
3 minutes in and you are still doing the intro. Im out of here.
Fusion might be less steps, but not if you include the number of times I have to goto google to search how to do each step lol.
atb uncle