I have a Frigidaire FFSS2614QS6A! I got a H1 error on the freezer side! I shut it off & unplugged it…nothing! I then cleaned the back where the compressor is at & the fan turns on fine! Shut it off & unplugged again….still not getting cold nor making ice? Any suggestions!?
So off the top of my head, the start relay. Or the main board. Do you have meter? Any clicking sound? I have a video showing the difference between a bad compressor and a start relay. A short click is usually a bad relay. A long click is usually a bad compressor
I have a Frigidaire JSI-23 and am getting an H-1 error. After putting some hamburger in the freezer last night, the door was not fully closed for a couple of hours. Then the fridge started beeping and the H-1 error code shower up. The freezer feels cold but the fridge does not seem as cold.
Thanks for the video, man! I had ice build up in the freezer, and defrosted it, cleaned the coils and got rid of the ice in the lower section where the air flows back. Freezer works fine but the fridge part still does not get cold (H1 error). Do you have a suggestion what’s going on?
Here it is: Frigidaire Side By Side Refrigerator Not Cooling. Damper Replaced |Easy and Cheap Fix| FFHS2622MWF th-cam.com/video/tGtF-sYR9no/w-d-xo.html
I noticed you had your settings at 3 for freezer and 5 for refrigerator, I was told to keep it at 6 for freezer and 6 for refrigerator yes or no? Plz and ty
My frigidaire is the same as this video. I have the H1 code flashing on the frige side only. The freezer is operating fine. I turned off the water to the icemaker since i need to replace the hose that is leaking. Could that be the cause? I also hear the fan thats in the back make noises like its going bad
Thanks for your question, so I have another video dealing with that issue and the fix is cheap. I’ll try and link the video. The problem with your unit is the damper. In the fresh food section upper left corner. Put your hand in front of it, do you feel air coming through?
@@appliancerepairshorts No. There's no air coming through. I've researched changing the damper. Looks fairly easy. Thanks. I will look into ordering one. I can't thank you enough!!!
So I have same error code, both sides, but no screen display before unplugging. No numbers, nothing. Unplugged and then h1 flashing. Symptoms are freezer and fridge both not cooling but after a 20 minute unplugged reset so far so good? Repair man trying to tell me over phone I need new ice maker? Compressor kicks on and everything. It is a little loud sometimes?
You will have that error message until the correct temperature is reached. If a component is bad or is failing, it could cause that. Tell me a little more about your situation, as in the fridge. Did you just buy it? That repair tech that is telling you that you need an icemaker- he doesn’t sound very knowledgeable. Keep in mind your icemaker is usually the first to suffer when temperature issues have occurred. Keep me posted on it.
@@appliancerepairshorts thanks for the reply! It’s a ffss2615ts2 and I’ve had it since 2020. Last night I noticed some water from the ice side of the door dispenser on the floor. Thought a piece of ice fell and cleaned it up. Woke up this morning and the controls in the fridge were blank and the ice in freezer had melted and water came out the shoot and flooded my kitchen overnight from the temp raising. Lost most of my frozen goods. Fridge side was also not as cold. I unplugged it and plugged it back in, display started intermittently showing the H1 on both sides. Emptied it, dumped ice and moved it to another room. Left it plugged in and eventually the H1 on both sides went away and it feels cold again. Froze a bottle of water and seems to be holding temp? I’m not seeing how this could be a $300+ ice maker replacement when it seems more like a temp control issue? I really appreciate you!
@@stephray88 it sounds like a start device. The start relay . It turns on the compressor which pumps refrigerant though the system to remove the heat. So pay extra attention to the compressor area. If you hear a series clicks then the start relay. Another thing you could do is remove the evaporator cover and examine the frost pattern. The frost pattern is nothing more than an even pattern of tiny frosting on all the pipes/ coils. If you have just one lump of ice or only a tiny part of frost. You have a sealed system issue. That will require a quality technician. Most often it is not worth the repair. To recap, make sure the fan is blowing, make sure no ice is on the evaporator cover, if you have ice/ frosting, you have some issues that could be : air is coming in somewhere, the door seal, the ice chute or someone might have not closed the door all the way. If the door was the issue, just unplug it for a day or two. In the refrigerator section make sure you can feel air blowing. Note: if you put your hand over the vent and you don’t feel air blowing, now open the freezer and see if you now feel air blowing. If yes, you need to remove the 2 bins. On the left side you will see a passage or opening the get frozen up. If you are not totally sure, just unplug it and open it for 2 days put a fan to help speed up the process.
I’m going nutts trying to fix my Frigidaire refrigerator!! I’ve watched so many videos and still not getting it. Here is what’s going on…refrigerator side seems cool and at ideal temperature. Freezer not freezing or making ice. Flashing H1 and beeping. Ice on evaporator coil. So I have tried defrosting evaporator coil with hair dryer, cleaning all coils underneath and checking drain tube for blockage. Also unplugged several times and plugged back in, I don’t know what to do!! Can anyone help???
mine was frozen solid, behind panel in freezer. Defrost it, now it's working, but it's seems to be having frost build up again. ? What should I replace??
Check the bi-metal and the heater. The bi-metal thermostat should be checked cold. Place the meter leads in both ends of the wires and your reading should be continuity. Now to verify that it is ‘open’, when the unit is thawed, check it again and you should get no continuity. If that checks out good, check the heater for resistance/continuity. If any of those are bad, replace them. If they check out good, then replace the board. Before you do all that, double check your gaskets and make sure there are no gaps or rips. Also check the freezer drain hole and make sure it’s not clogged. You’ll know it’s clogged if you have a layer of ice on the bottom of your freezer and sometimes water leaking from the bottom. Hope this helps. Thanks for watching!
my model FFHS2611LWB had H1 show on the FREEZER display only switching from H to 1, replaced thermal switch, from time to time it had ice builded up, remove ice it work fine and a month later again, please any one can help.. thanks
So what you need to do is test the heater. The heater is the black thing with wires. You need to test it with a meter for continuity. You also need to test the bimetal. When the freezer is cold, it should have continuity. When it is warm, no continuity. Also make sure you don’t have a clogged drain if you have a clogged drain, you will have a layer of ice on the freezer floor. If you do, unclog it with a steamer or super hot water. Check your door seal’s make sure they are sealing properly. Next thing is your ice dispenser. Pour a little bit of water. 2-4 tablespoons of water in the area where the ice chute. No water should come out. If if comes out, it will cause your fridge to ice up. Check your drain tube make sure it is secured. If all those are good, replace the board
@@appliancerepairshorts fan area one in awhile ice build up, i was use after market thermostat, and it still fail a month later , just replace with new OEM one but seem still but last longer, so it is not really fix and see what happen next, will keep you updated. all your video helpful tho
@@GoodMemoriesToRemeber did you test the thermostat? Put the old one in the freezer for about 3-4 hours. Set your meter to continuity. It should beep. Put it in warm water for a few minutes and then test it. It should not beep. Did you check your heater for continuity? Your board is the next thing. You can wait until the refrigerator is cycling off and open the freezer. Make sure it is super dark in the kitchen and refrigerator. You should be able to see the heater glowing. If not you might have a bad board. Not sure if I have a video of that, I’ll check and link it. Another important thing is, your door seals and the ice chute. If air is coming in, it will frost up , a clogged drain is another thing. Thanks for watching
So it could mean the Compressor is too hot or the Compressor is bad. Usually a longer duration before the click is a bad start device-start rely. When it clicks immediately, normally a bad compressor. If you have a model number I can recommend more testing. I have videos showing how to test and run the compressor independently
Fastest response ever, so let me see if I understand you correctly. The freezer is not cold like before? Do you have a thermometer to monitor the temperature of both freezer and fresh food? If you can email me a short video. Start inside the freezer. Use the flash so I can see. Then go to the back of refrigerator. I need to hear the Compressor
My Frigidaire trips the main breaker every 24 hour does anyone knows what that means. After I turn the breaker back on I get a code H on freezer side. I re-adjust the temperature and it runs like normal for 24 hours and trip the main breaker
On that unit and your unit, those are single evaporators. That means that the freezer side is the heart. If your freezer stops, you’re not making ice and the fresh food section will be affected as well. See if it is frozen inside the freezer back wall. You might have a bad heater, bimetal, broken wire or a bad board.
I have a Frigidaire FFHS2611PFEA. I’ve replaced the damper and cleaned the coils on the back side of the fridge. I’m still having issues refrigerator side not cooling and throwing the H1 code still. But my freezer side still makes ice and it freezes. What am I over looking or missing ?
At the bottom between the freezer and fresh food..you will see an opening from the freezer to the fridge. Make sure it is not full of ice. You can check by placing your hand in front of the damper. You should feel air. If nothing, now open the freezer and check again. If you feel air, you are clogged with ice. Also can you hear the fan blowing in the freezer section? I need a cup of coffee. Keep me posted
I have a Frigidaire FFSS2614QS6A! I got a H1 error on the freezer side! I shut it off & unplugged it…nothing! I then cleaned the back where the compressor is at & the fan turns on fine! Shut it off & unplugged again….still not getting cold nor making ice? Any suggestions!?
So off the top of my head, the start relay. Or the main board. Do you have meter? Any clicking sound? I have a video showing the difference between a bad compressor and a start relay. A short click is usually a bad relay. A long click is usually a bad compressor
I have a Frigidaire JSI-23 and am getting an H-1 error. After putting some hamburger in the freezer last night, the door was not fully closed for a couple of hours.
Then the fridge started beeping and the H-1 error code shower up.
The freezer feels cold but the fridge does not seem as cold.
It will be fine, just keep it close and give it 12-24 hours
Thanks for the video, man!
I had ice build up in the freezer, and defrosted it, cleaned the coils and got rid of the ice in the lower section where the air flows back.
Freezer works fine but the fridge part still does not get cold (H1 error).
Do you have a suggestion what’s going on?
You damper on the upper left corner is stuck in closed position. I have video dealing with that. I’ll try and find it
Here it is: Frigidaire Side By Side Refrigerator Not Cooling. Damper Replaced |Easy and Cheap Fix| FFHS2622MWF
th-cam.com/video/tGtF-sYR9no/w-d-xo.html
I noticed you had your settings at 3 for freezer and 5 for refrigerator, I was told to keep it at 6 for freezer and 6 for refrigerator yes or no? Plz and ty
Yes, I change it after to the middle number. If the highest is 9, 5-6 is best. Thanks for watching!
My frigidaire is the same as this video. I have the H1 code flashing on the frige side only. The freezer is operating fine. I turned off the water to the icemaker since i need to replace the hose that is leaking. Could that be the cause? I also hear the fan thats in the back make noises like its going bad
Thanks for your question, so I have another video dealing with that issue and the fix is cheap. I’ll try and link the video. The problem with your unit is the damper. In the fresh food section upper left corner. Put your hand in front of it, do you feel air coming through?
@@appliancerepairshorts No. There's no air coming through. I've researched changing the damper. Looks fairly easy. Thanks. I will look into ordering one. I can't thank you enough!!!
So I have same error code, both sides, but no screen display before unplugging. No numbers, nothing. Unplugged and then h1 flashing. Symptoms are freezer and fridge both not cooling but after a 20 minute unplugged reset so far so good? Repair man trying to tell me over phone I need new ice maker? Compressor kicks on and everything. It is a little loud sometimes?
You will have that error message until the correct temperature is reached. If a component is bad or is failing, it could cause that. Tell me a little more about your situation, as in the fridge. Did you just buy it?
That repair tech that is telling you that you need an icemaker- he doesn’t sound very knowledgeable. Keep in mind your icemaker is usually the first to suffer when temperature issues have occurred. Keep me posted on it.
@@appliancerepairshorts thanks for the reply! It’s a ffss2615ts2 and I’ve had it since 2020. Last night I noticed some water from the ice side of the door dispenser on the floor. Thought a piece of ice fell and cleaned it up. Woke up this morning and the controls in the fridge were blank and the ice in freezer had melted and water came out the shoot and flooded my kitchen overnight from the temp raising. Lost most of my frozen goods. Fridge side was also not as cold. I unplugged it and plugged it back in, display started intermittently showing the H1 on both sides. Emptied it, dumped ice and moved it to another room. Left it plugged in and eventually the H1 on both sides went away and it feels cold again. Froze a bottle of water and seems to be holding temp? I’m not seeing how this could be a $300+ ice maker replacement when it seems more like a temp control issue? I really appreciate you!
@@stephray88 it sounds like a start device. The start relay . It turns on the compressor which pumps refrigerant though the system to remove the heat. So pay extra attention to the compressor area. If you hear a series clicks then the start relay. Another thing you could do is remove the evaporator cover and examine the frost pattern. The frost pattern is nothing more than an even pattern of tiny frosting on all the pipes/ coils. If you have just one lump of ice or only a tiny part of frost. You have a sealed system issue. That will require a quality technician. Most often it is not worth the repair. To recap, make sure the fan is blowing, make sure no ice is on the evaporator cover, if you have ice/ frosting, you have some issues that could be : air is coming in somewhere, the door seal, the ice chute or someone might have not closed the door all the way. If the door was the issue, just unplug it for a day or two. In the refrigerator section make sure you can feel air blowing. Note: if you put your hand over the vent and you don’t feel air blowing, now open the freezer and see if you now feel air blowing. If yes, you need to remove the 2 bins. On the left side you will see a passage or opening the get frozen up. If you are not totally sure, just unplug it and open it for 2 days put a fan to help speed up the process.
I’m going nutts trying to fix my Frigidaire refrigerator!! I’ve watched so many videos and still not getting it. Here is what’s going on…refrigerator side seems cool and at ideal temperature. Freezer not freezing or making ice. Flashing H1 and beeping. Ice on evaporator coil. So I have tried defrosting evaporator coil with hair dryer, cleaning all coils underneath and checking drain tube for blockage. Also unplugged several times and plugged back in, I don’t know what to do!! Can anyone help???
@@appliancerepairshorts ❤
mine was frozen solid, behind panel in freezer. Defrost it, now it's working, but it's seems to be having frost build up again. ? What should I replace??
Check the bi-metal and the heater. The bi-metal thermostat should be checked cold. Place the meter leads in both ends of the wires and your reading should be continuity. Now to verify that it is ‘open’, when the unit is thawed, check it again and you should get no continuity. If that checks out good, check the heater for resistance/continuity. If any of those are bad, replace them. If they check out good, then replace the board. Before you do all that, double check your gaskets and make sure there are no gaps or rips. Also check the freezer drain hole and make sure it’s not clogged. You’ll know it’s clogged if you have a layer of ice on the bottom of your freezer and sometimes water leaking from the bottom. Hope this helps. Thanks for watching!
@@appliancerepairshorts thanks, 👍
my model FFHS2611LWB had H1 show on the FREEZER display only switching from H to 1, replaced thermal switch, from time to time it had ice builded up, remove ice it work fine and a month later again, please any one can help.. thanks
So what you need to do is test the heater. The heater is the black thing with wires. You need to test it with a meter for continuity. You also need to test the bimetal. When the freezer is cold, it should have continuity. When it is warm, no continuity. Also make sure you don’t have a clogged drain if you have a clogged drain, you will have a layer of ice on the freezer floor. If you do, unclog it with a steamer or super hot water. Check your door seal’s make sure they are sealing properly. Next thing is your ice dispenser. Pour a little bit of water. 2-4 tablespoons of water in the area where the ice chute. No water should come out. If if comes out, it will cause your fridge to ice up. Check your drain tube make sure it is secured. If all those are good, replace the board
Thank you
Appreciate your feedback, what was wrong with your refrigerator?
@@appliancerepairshorts fan area one in awhile ice build up, i was use after market thermostat, and it still fail a month later , just replace with new OEM one but seem still but last longer, so it is not really fix and see what happen next, will keep you updated. all your video helpful tho
@@GoodMemoriesToRemeber did you test the thermostat? Put the old one in the freezer for about 3-4 hours. Set your meter to continuity. It should beep. Put it in warm water for a few minutes and then test it. It should not beep. Did you check your heater for continuity? Your board is the next thing. You can wait until the refrigerator is cycling off and open the freezer. Make sure it is super dark in the kitchen and refrigerator. You should be able to see the heater glowing. If not you might have a bad board. Not sure if I have a video of that, I’ll check and link it. Another important thing is, your door seals and the ice chute. If air is coming in, it will frost up , a clogged drain is another thing. Thanks for watching
What does it mean when i hear the relay click really quick? And the freezer side is showing h1 error code
So it could mean the Compressor is too hot or the Compressor is bad. Usually a longer duration before the click is a bad start device-start rely. When it clicks immediately, normally a bad compressor. If you have a model number I can recommend more testing. I have videos showing how to test and run the compressor independently
My Frigidaire of 16 years is not freezing by cold like the fridge side. Not sure what the issue is.
Fastest response ever, so let me see if I understand you correctly. The freezer is not cold like before? Do you have a thermometer to monitor the temperature of both freezer and fresh food? If you can email me a short video. Start inside the freezer. Use the flash so I can see. Then go to the back of refrigerator. I need to hear the Compressor
My Frigidaire trips the main breaker every 24 hour does anyone knows what that means. After I turn the breaker back on I get a code H on freezer side. I re-adjust the temperature and it runs like normal for 24 hours and trip the main breaker
So sorry I didn’t see your message. Bad Icemaker tripping the breaker. Hopefully you still needed or figured it out
My fridge not freezing on or cold on the refrigerator side but I hear the motor on inside the freezer
Hi there, it sounds like it could be the start relay. You can send me your model number and I’ll send you a link to the correct part!
Donde esta la tarjeta
No entiendo.
For me its the freezer side and ice machine
On that unit and your unit, those are single evaporators. That means that the freezer side is the heart. If your freezer stops, you’re not making ice and the fresh food section will be affected as well. See if it is frozen inside the freezer back wall. You might have a bad heater, bimetal, broken wire or a bad board.
I have a Frigidaire FFHS2611PFEA. I’ve replaced the damper and cleaned the coils on the back side of the fridge. I’m still having issues refrigerator side not cooling and throwing the H1 code still. But my freezer side still makes ice and it freezes. What am I over looking or missing ?
At the bottom between the freezer and fresh food..you will see an opening from the freezer to the fridge. Make sure it is not full of ice. You can check by placing your hand in front of the damper. You should feel air. If nothing, now open the freezer and check again. If you feel air, you are clogged with ice. Also can you hear the fan blowing in the freezer section? I need a cup of coffee. Keep me posted