Thanks for taking the time to make this video. I really enjoyed it. The product looks amazing and I'm definitely going to make one. I especially like the way you shot and edited the video. It is honest and straight to the point, with well thought out camera angles. It is so refreshing to learn something new without annoying product placements. You are a great teacher my friend. Thanks again.
🤜🤛 for presentation! Even with a bench top jointer, longer stock can be problematic and time consuming to get desired results. Time spent making this jig is easily regained when compared to the effort required on a bench top jointer.
Great video! I'm tempted to make this even though I already have a jointer planer. I had the jointer before I purchased the bench planer, but to be honest the bench planer jig you are demonstrating would be much faster and also do wider boards than my six inch jointer. Cheers!
I saw this in another video a couple years ago and built one. It does work well and supports the board nicely. However, it does take away about half of capacity of your planer. And I would suggest infeed and outfeed tables long enough to set this beast on. I have a Dewalt 735 with the factory tables on a stand, and with the work piece and this together, it’s a lot to feed into and catch on the out side. Honestly I use what he showed first, the Mdf with the stop block and shims more than I do this one just because it’s not such a job running it through the planer.
You are absolutely right as it does take away approx 50% of the capacity but still such a great jig! It would be ideal to inset the planer with its bed flat with the table; This jig is about 15 lbs and it is a mini beast - lets see how it stands up in time; Cheers for the comment!
That's a very cleverly designed jig! As long as your stock with the jig isn't too thick for the planer, this seems like a solid leveling tool! Thanks for posting!
That's a really good callout! It does cut the capacity by 50% but its a sacrifice I should be willing to make. Thanks for your kind comment and look forward to seeing your future comments/suggestions in future videos!
Thank you for sharing this video. This is a very ingenious way to level a twisted or warped board flat on two sides. I do have a 4 inch jointer but this jig will make it possible to flatten much wider boards (up to 12 inches) on my thickness planer. I'm excited to try to make this jig.
Here’s a tip so you can avoid too many “this will make sense in a little while” apologies: instead of a start-to-finish linear edit, try demonstrating the final product at the beginning so your viewers can see how the design works. Then, as they follow the process of making the parts, they will already have an understanding of what each part does and how it relates to the whole. Also, in your intro and outro, make sure that overhead light isn’t flaring your camera lens and washing out the image (and consider losing the orange and purple globe lights in the background - they’re distracting an add nothing to the overall look).
That is some really amazing feedback; still kinda new and value my viewer's insights... I will do my best to incorporate all in my future videos; Cheers!
Agreed. There are a lot of videos out there with great content. And I’m appreciative of it. However, a design-to-build preface video would do wonders rather than the typical, “it’ll make sense later”. That’s not to say your content isn’t good.
He explained it to the point you wait for the demonstration or build with him. It’s the soft teaching, interactive approach that motivates people who may feel overwhelmed or discouraged as they go through the process themselves. You don’t get it, he’s really good but being humble so others don’t quit easily; different strokes for different folks.
@@1Tibs1 Yeah, I guess I don't get it. 30+ years of being a visual storyteller and filmmaker just didn't sink in for me. @RVWoodworks, please don't take my well intentioned advice.
You have a bright future on this platform my friend. You have a very natural presence on camera. Really informative video on a jig I've never seen before and I watch a TON of woodworking videos. So many of them are repetitive topics rehashed by a different channel. It was refreshing to see something I hadn't seen before. You got a subscribe from me. I look forward to seeing more videos in the future.
i really enjoyed your video ! very helpful thank you! i am wondering if this jig would also help correct snipe on my planner ? i look forward to watching more from you! thanks again !
Thanks for your kind comment! I would not count on this jig to reduce snipe... To reduce snipe, the ideal solution is the embed the planner in a tabletop which will provide a longer runway for the board (in-feed and out-feed equally). Thanks again and look forward to your future comments.
Just discovered your channel. You’re really good at describing and showing. 👍 (Some do it too much or too little.) I like the atmosphere. Nice editing and music. Subscribed after a few minutes.
Nice job, but the problem that I encounter most often in jointing wider rough stock (8" +) is cupping, which your jig will not support properly because your crosswise support pieces are each a straightedge. You would still need shims to support the edges of a cupped board (concave side up). Without them the planer rollers flatten the cupping, which then springs back after the board has run through the planer leaving you with a board that is still cupped.
Thanks for the kind words; that is a fair problem... There is another type of jointing jig to help solve this problem. It is also built like a torsion box but it has multiple adjusting bench dog style pieces that protrude and retract with a bolt that you can us to shim the board. Not a hard jig to build and if there is enough interest, I can build a video to show how to build that jig.
What a great idea! I unfortunately didn’t prepare the CNC plans but don’t think it would take too much to create it; if you do end up making it please share a link and I’ll pin that comment on top of this video.
Brilliant take on something that isn’t covered enough imo….. after 3+ months, have you still been using it? Has it held up so far? How heavy and cumbersome is it to use with larger boards? Thanks in advance! I subscribed btw!
First of all thanks for subscribing and glad you appreciated the video! I have been using the sled; it is about 15lbs so not the lightest but definitely works and glad I made it! If you are just done one offs a simple sled might be enough but if you have a few boards then you really appreciate the time saved with this jig! Thanks again!
Great video, great detail! Just one suggestion, for safety I don’t hold pieces with my fingers on the drill press. Either a clamp or vice, would prevent the finger injuries if it gets out of your grip.
Thanks so much for thinking of my safety! It is such a bad habit and I will make a meaningful effort to use a vise or clamp next time. Actually, I am going to place a clamp next to my drill press to ensure I remember next time, thanks and cheers!
I built a similar jig based on the same article that was adapted differently and used a lot of heavier MDF and lumber that had to be adjusted from below . It was also close to 35 pounds when finished. Just too heavy to use. I tried it twice and set it aside, going back to the board and shim method. I am now going to salvage that jig to make yours because your makes sense and looks a lot lighter. Question: How will you store it to keep it flat?
WOW, 35 lbs is a lot! This version is about 15 lbs which is manageable I think; I hang mine on the wall with a couple of 3 inch screw partially in the stud that align to a couple of holes in the bottom of the jig. Hope that helps and thanks for the comment; cheers!
@RVWoodworks thanks for the lesson and reminder. Wish I saw it sooner...I saw one of those 30 second blips on fb for it from someone else...I had to reply/pause so many times to sketch it out...lol. I certainly prefer full length videos. You scattered good tips throughout which I also appreciate. So glad I saw you wearing a respirator! Mdf is toxic to breathe and most people don't know it's made with harsh chemicals like formaldehyde...why they decided to use an embalming chemical I'll never understand... I have 2 suggestions for you...paste wax and washers...if you run paste wax on the bottom of the sled and where the guides glide (love the sandpaper tip!) It will move better. Washers in between the knobs and connecting surfaces will help it last longer. The coolest part about this jig is you can transfer the sliders to longer boards if necessary. Thanks again for the lesson and tips!
Thanks for your kind comment! You are absolutely right about MDF and glad that you took the time to enlighten the community via this comment, thank you. Regarding your tips, love them both! I did paste wax the sled but didn't record but the washers is a great idea and will implement the next time I make new leveling bars. Thanks again and look forward to your future comments.
This was awesome but I’m concerned about the weight of the jig. Once you add the weight of the board to be planed I’m concerned that it would be too heavy. Love the design though. How much did it weigh?
Thanks for your kind comments and apologies for the delayed response; the jig is just shy of 15 lbs thus not the lightest but the return is well worth it if you ask me :)
Possibly the most complex solution to a simple problem I have ever seen. I salute you sir. Next time I find myself losing the will to live I'll go into my workshop and make one of these.
I'm new to wood working and have the means to buy new power tools.. The only issue is I have a small workshop. What power jointer/planer would you recommend? Thanks for this video!
Welcome to woodworking; regarding planers: Dewalt planer is slightly more expensive but it’s the best. You have the means get the one with the helical head blades; you won’t regret it! Regarding jointer: if you have the space then go for floor standing model but if you are lacking space then get a bench top version with extension arms and try to grab at least an 8 inch. If you get any smaller than you will end up wanting an upgrade very soon. Hope that helps; I am planning a shop tour video soon which will cover this in more detail; cheers!
Well. I just haven't find any place to get rough lumber in Southern California. Would be great to get rough lumber and mill it myself. If anyone knows a place in Socal I truly appreciate it. Thank you for sharing your knowledge.
I am in Canada but is Hardwood Inc close to you? They are located in San Luis Obispo. Jonathan Katz-Moses just went there in his last video: th-cam.com/video/2ZwgkGHdhiA/w-d-xo.html... If they are not close to you, maybe you can call them and ask for other dealers that are closer to you. Most dealers know about everyone nearby; best of luck with the hunt; cheers!
It seems to me that this jig can be modified to use t-tracks instead of the torsion box base. I would have to delve deeper into this thing, but cutting out the torsion box would keep from cutting the planing capacity so much.
I wish I had tripped over this video a week and $11,000 ago just baught a jointer, but, am planning to make several of these fantastic jigs as gifts for a few of my friends who are also rabid wood workers as am I. Thank you sir and may God bless you and your wood shop.
@wrstew1272 I wish I had deep pockets, lol , just what tools cost in my country for even a very average second hand jointer was going to be 6500 so figured "buy once cry once" still bloody hurt though.
Congrats on getting started with your shop! Table saw is the Rigid R4520 and I have the Boash RA1881 table top & 1617 router! Here is what it looks like: instagram.com/reel/CrU1v0wsbha/?igsh=Z20zOWc5djMzcWQy Amazing set but consider getting RA 1173AT dust collection attachment on the router. I just added it and it makes a world of a difference. Look for a review video in the next couple of weeks once I have some time with it.
Very Nice! Only one minor change I might suggest: the T-nuts should be on the inside of the sliders so that when you tighten the thumb screws, they are not trying to push the T-Nuts out of the slider. T_nuts are "nuts" should be used on the end of the bolt, nut the top. Or perhaps use threaded inserts instead of T-nuts.
WOW, what a great suggestion! I hope others that build this jig read this comment before making theres and whenever I make new leveling bars I will for sure implement, thank you.
I have that same planer. I have that same problem I see your board does (snipe on the infeed end). No amount of leveling, making jigs or tricks seems to get rid of it. Thanks for the detailed walk through on making this jig. I'm wondering if any of the parts could be made thinner, to reduce the overall height of the jig, or does that end up losing it's ability to keep things level with flexing?
It's a great planer and definitely under rated. The snipe is a problem but that's true for most planers; the way to fix it is to add a longer in-feed and out-feed bed. For our planer we can joint boards up to 4 inches with the current sled which I find adequate and wouldn't suggest making the jig any slimmer although if you really wanted to you could make the torsion box slimmer but in that case I would use hard wood instead. Hope that helps and I am glad you enjoyed the video. Thanks for the kind words and your support; Cheers!
A question: When you say ‘hardwood’, do you mean something like maple or oak, or could it mean fir or pine as well? I ask because it looks as if you’re using a common 2x4 when you’re cutting it on the table saw. Thanks! I’m interested in this because I often need to joint wood that is wider than my 6” jointer can handle. And, like you, I’ve had mixed results using a sled with shims.
Fantastic question and hope this sled can help with your woodworking endeavors... When you make the sled please share a pic on my insta and tag me; I would love to see how it turned out (instagram.com/woodworksrv/) To reply to your question: you can use douglas fir for the leveling bars as long as your bar is thick enough (1.5 or more). I would not use yellow pine, although harder than fir, I find pine tends to have more knots thus has a tendency to warp overtime; more than fir. On the other hand, if you want extreme longevity from the sled, then I would recommend using Oak, Maple or even Birch. I hope that helped and please let me know if you have any other questions... Cheers!
Glueing up layers of flat stock for a base on a diy table doesn’t necessarily make it flat without bow or wind. The table you glued it up on would have to be true like a saw top or jointer table.
That’s a really good point; I should have mentioned that on the video… my table is flat but the table saw would have been a much better option! Thanks for calling that out; Cheers!
Nice concept. Little tip when making knobs, instead of sanding them individually you should put a bolt through the holes so you can sand a bunch of them together on the bench drill.
Great idea but I would recommend putting some rubber gasket material on the leveling knobs to prevent vibrational spin that will render the whole build useless
I agree as long as you are only doing a few boards but when you are going 20 or 30 boards the hot glue tends to rip the mdf board which causes uneven runs on the planer.
The fact that you have interest is a massive compliment! I have not and I don’t think I can; I still have a daytime job and just a weekend woodworker for the time being.
Is it really too hard for you guys to create plans in metric as well as imperial?? Looks like a great idea and I'll buy the plans regardless, because I can work in both measurement systems. But having both sets of measurements on the digital download would make them more appraling to a broader audience. Thanks for the great video tutorial.
Thanks for your comment; I do need to do a better job about speaking in both metric and imperial; thanks for the feedback. You can actually find the plans in both metric and imperial on this link: www.woodsmithplans.com/plan/double-duty-planer-sled/ Thanks for the support and hope you enjoyed the video: Cheers!
Well done DIY jig that actually works as it should. But unfortunately you need a bigger and expensive planer to take this jig and the material too. A poorman solution would rather be with doublesided tape anyway.
A complicated build but a great idea. The only downside I see is the height of the appliance limiting the thickness of wood you could pass through the planer - but who planes wood that thick??
Thanks for the comment; agree that its not the simplest build but so worth it! Also, you are right, I have yet to get in a situation where I need more thickness.
Personally, I find the strips that I added in the video enough but that’s a good idea as well! Just make sure it’s not above the wood that needs to be flattened else it will hit the blade.
First you should be talking about straight now level. Second it would be much more interesting if you cut a part and use it rather then cut cut cut cut before you assemble anything. You would see the part be made and where it goes the the next part and where it goes. You can get bored watching parts being ripped and set aside for later.
You are absolutely right and thanks for the correction; I also appreciate your feedback and will try and incorporate in my future videos... Hopefully you will continue to provide feedback to help grow the channel; cheers!
Thanks for your question and apologies for the late reply; I would use a tapering jig to clean up side 3 and the with side 3 against the fence I would clean up side 4 on the table saw. Actually, I have a video upcoming in the next few weeks where I show this exact process; Cheers!
So true and good catch! Do as I say rather than I do, please… I built this during the holidays and I was unable to source hardwood. Nonetheless, although not ideal, spruce or pine can work as well but the jig just won’t last as long.
Beautiful creation. Mr. Rod from "My Garage Woodshop" made this 6 years ago. It's a shame you don't pay homage to him in your video th-cam.com/video/DNg9BV4IF2Q/w-d-xo.htmlsi=W2eOppZVbCRJz8HF!! 🤭 Greetings RV
I am sorry, I am very interested in a jig like this , but I stopped watching the moment he pushes the wood without a pusher with his fingers inches away from the blade. Safety first always always always
Why do you feel it’s overly complicated? I agree there are other simpler jigs which I showcased in the beginning but those can get very time consuming if you are levelling multiple boards.
Am I missing something! I can't see how this is going to work with a "cupped" board? You are still going to have to wedge one side. Well, on second thought ... I suppose you can double up the number of leveling bars and use them in pairs to be able to raise both sides simultaneously to deal with the cup. Thoughts?
great video, there is one thing I don't understand. you have two opposites sides of the board parallel to each other. But the other two sides with are opposite to each other are not. don't you need one flat side and one parallel side? Which is what you would get from a jointer. I don't see how you flatten and parallel the other two sides. Please explain.
Great question! I would now use one of those sides to put on a tapering jig to get a 90° cut on the table saw. Actually, I’m in the process of building something that’s going do just that so stay tuned and you’ll see it in action.
Most planners I’ve worked with are 12 inches and wider. Usually jointers are 6 - 8 inches; but… I guess you could alter the plans to make it fit a 6 inch planer as well. By the way can you share the model number and manufacturer for your planer? I’ve never seen one that small before.
Ohhhh I see; fair question… the height of this jig is 3.5 - 3.75 inches (depending on how much to raise or lower the levellers) thus you will still be able to run a 2 inch board easily. If you have boards that are thicker, you might need to make the jig a little bit smaller in height.
I really appreciate this because while I do have a jointer I often have to joint boards that are too wide for it like you said. And while a jointer sled works for the narrow edge of a board you can’t flatten a 11-13 inch board with it. I have been using the msg and wedge method since I first got my planer but it’s a pain because you have to clean off the hot glue you used to secure it. As soon as I can get back into my shop I’m going to build this. Ty for your video, ty for being real and admitting to mistakes and ty for your video being not only complete but easy to watch and understand
Your absolutely right. This jig will save time and effort. Will be building one in the very near future. Thanks for imparting the knowledge, very much appreciated.
Very creative idea. I work out of a 8' x 12' shed and have no room for a jointer. This is definitely my next shop project. Me and Mr. No.6 Stanley will no longer be jointing boards together after this.
@@RVWoodworks when you say you are "leveling" it is incorrect. You are verifying that the elements are in plane. "Level" refers to just that...like a slab is level, or not. Cabinets...anything requireing a true level. Can you refer to level on a boat? It's the same thing, your reference depends on factors not relevent to the machine. I'm a 4.5 decade carpenter/cabinetmaker/contractor...I think if we educate, we should educate properly. Absolutely no disrespect, you are doing solid work...but it's all in the language!
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Great video and great project. You have very good way of explaining things and presentintation is excellent.
Thanks for the kind words and glad you enjoyed the video; cheers!
OK 4 minutes in and I already know I like this guy. Birds of the feather.
Thanks so much for the kind words; cheers!
Thanks for taking the time to make this video. I really enjoyed it. The product looks amazing and I'm definitely going to make one. I especially like the way you shot and edited the video. It is honest and straight to the point, with well thought out camera angles. It is so refreshing to learn something new without annoying product placements. You are a great teacher my friend. Thanks again.
Thanks so much for the compliments! Happy to hear I enjoyed you to build your own! Keep me posted; Cheers!
Well Done Sir! Really like the detail you put forth in making this jig. Thanks!
Thank you very much!
Inspired! Thanks Rahim! I love carpentry 💕
So glad!
🤜🤛 for presentation! Even with a bench top jointer, longer stock can be problematic and time consuming to get desired results. Time spent making this jig is easily regained when compared to the effort required on a bench top jointer.
Right on; thanks for the comment… cheers!
I love videos like this that walk through steps carefully. Also, good on calling out the error as well.
Thank you! I’m glad you enjoyed the build; Cheers
Thank you for presenting this levelled up option. Thank you for presenting it clearly and thoroughly.
Glad it was helpful!
Always something new to learn. Thanks for including all the detail steps!
Thank you so much for watching! I'm glad you enjoyed the video!
I build a lot of things that are a fit for this size sled, cool design, now making one! Thank you.
Thanks! Happy building :)
Great video! I'm tempted to make this even though I already have a jointer planer. I had the jointer before I purchased the bench planer, but to be honest the bench planer jig you are demonstrating would be much faster and also do wider boards than my six inch jointer. Cheers!
I never had the space for a proper jointer and don’t enjoy the bench top versions; this jointer honestly saves so much time, I encourage the build!
I saw this in another video a couple years ago and built one. It does work well and supports the board nicely. However, it does take away about half of capacity of your planer. And I would suggest infeed and outfeed tables long enough to set this beast on. I have a Dewalt 735 with the factory tables on a stand, and with the work piece and this together, it’s a lot to feed into and catch on the out side. Honestly I use what he showed first, the Mdf with the stop block and shims more than I do this one just because it’s not such a job running it through the planer.
You are absolutely right as it does take away approx 50% of the capacity but still such a great jig! It would be ideal to inset the planer with its bed flat with the table; This jig is about 15 lbs and it is a mini beast - lets see how it stands up in time; Cheers for the comment!
Me too. Waste of time unless you were about to mill up hundreds of boards
That's a very cleverly designed jig!
As long as your stock with the jig isn't too thick for the planer, this seems like a solid leveling tool! Thanks for posting!
That's a really good callout! It does cut the capacity by 50% but its a sacrifice I should be willing to make.
Thanks for your kind comment and look forward to seeing your future comments/suggestions in future videos!
I'm gonna have to build one of these! Excellent video!
I’m glad you enjoyed the video; happy building!
That was fire!! I am building this for my planer as soon as I can get to the place that has MDF here. Subscribed and big thanks for the clear tips. :)
Glad you enjoyed the video! Happy building and thanks for the sub; cheers!
Thank you for sharing this video. This is a very ingenious way to level a twisted or warped board flat on two sides. I do have a 4 inch jointer but this jig will make it possible to flatten much wider boards (up to 12 inches) on my thickness planer. I'm excited to try to make this jig.
Amazing! Glad the video helped, happy building; cheers!
Here’s a tip so you can avoid too many “this will make sense in a little while” apologies: instead of a start-to-finish linear edit, try demonstrating the final product at the beginning so your viewers can see how the design works. Then, as they follow the process of making the parts, they will already have an understanding of what each part does and how it relates to the whole. Also, in your intro and outro, make sure that overhead light isn’t flaring your camera lens and washing out the image (and consider losing the orange and purple globe lights in the background - they’re distracting an add nothing to the overall look).
That is some really amazing feedback; still kinda new and value my viewer's insights... I will do my best to incorporate all in my future videos; Cheers!
Agreed. There are a lot of videos out there with great content. And I’m appreciative of it. However, a design-to-build preface video would do wonders rather than the typical, “it’ll make sense later”. That’s not to say your content isn’t good.
Thank you; I’ll do my best to incorporate
He explained it to the point you wait for the demonstration or build with him. It’s the soft teaching, interactive approach that motivates people who may feel overwhelmed or discouraged as they go through the process themselves. You don’t get it, he’s really good but being humble so others don’t quit easily; different strokes for different folks.
@@1Tibs1 Yeah, I guess I don't get it. 30+ years of being a visual storyteller and filmmaker just didn't sink in for me. @RVWoodworks, please don't take my well intentioned advice.
Bro. This is genius!. Thanks
Thank you! Glad you enjoyed the video.
You have a bright future on this platform my friend. You have a very natural presence on camera. Really informative video on a jig I've never seen before and I watch a TON of woodworking videos. So many of them are repetitive topics rehashed by a different channel. It was refreshing to see something I hadn't seen before. You got a subscribe from me. I look forward to seeing more videos in the future.
Oh my... I think this comment is one to print and put on the wall! You are too kind and a big THANK YOU!!!
I really enjoyed your video - humble and helpful!
Thanks for the kind comment; cheers!
Good job man. Very clear and too the point. Good man
Glad you liked it!
Thank you for this fabulous jig. Before you said it I knew you needed to predrill those holes in the MDF. I am new here and subscribed.
Thank you for your kind comment and a massive thanks for subscribing. Pre-drilling is always a good idea; cheers!
Great work. Appreciate the detail.
Glad you liked it!
i really enjoyed your video ! very helpful thank you! i am wondering if this jig would also help correct snipe on my planner ? i look forward to watching more from you! thanks again !
Thanks for your kind comment! I would not count on this jig to reduce snipe... To reduce snipe, the ideal solution is the embed the planner in a tabletop which will provide a longer runway for the board (in-feed and out-feed equally).
Thanks again and look forward to your future comments.
This is amazing! Thanks for sharing
Glad you enjoyed it!
will be making this in the near future. amazing
I am glad you found the video helpful; Cheers!
Just discovered your channel.
You’re really good at describing and showing. 👍 (Some do it too much or too little.) I like the atmosphere. Nice editing and music.
Subscribed after a few minutes.
Awesome, thank you! Glad to hear you enjoyed the video; Cheers!
Thanks love your video, So I made a cnc vcarve version to cut these parts out. I will soon make a video on how I did it.
Thank you! Can’t wait to see your video; please make sure and share that link and/or details (once available)
Nicely done👍
Thank you! Hope you enjoyed the video; cheers!
This is what incredible 😊
Thank you so much for watching! I'm glad you enjoyed the video!
Nicely done. I love jigs. I'll be building this one. Thanks
Glad you enjoyed the build; and best of luck with yours!
Nice job, but the problem that I encounter most often in jointing wider rough stock (8" +) is cupping, which your jig will not support properly because your crosswise support pieces are each a straightedge. You would still need shims to support the edges of a cupped board (concave side up). Without them the planer rollers flatten the cupping, which then springs back after the board has run through the planer leaving you with a board that is still cupped.
Thanks for the kind words; that is a fair problem... There is another type of jointing jig to help solve this problem. It is also built like a torsion box but it has multiple adjusting bench dog style pieces that protrude and retract with a bolt that you can us to shim the board. Not a hard jig to build and if there is enough interest, I can build a video to show how to build that jig.
Yes, please! @@RVWoodworks
@@RVWoodworksI would vote for that jig build video
Me three please🙏 and thank you ❤
Great video! I was thinking of cutting the parts on my CNC…do the plans come with templates for this?
What a great idea! I unfortunately didn’t prepare the CNC plans but don’t think it would take too much to create it; if you do end up making it please share a link and I’ll pin that comment on top of this video.
great jig TY !
Glad you enjoyed the video; thank you!
Brilliant take on something that isn’t covered enough imo…..
after 3+ months, have you still been using it? Has it held up so far? How heavy and cumbersome is it to use with larger boards?
Thanks in advance! I subscribed btw!
First of all thanks for subscribing and glad you appreciated the video! I have been using the sled; it is about 15lbs so not the lightest but definitely works and glad I made it! If you are just done one offs a simple sled might be enough but if you have a few boards then you really appreciate the time saved with this jig!
Thanks again!
Great video, great detail! Just one suggestion, for safety I don’t hold pieces with my fingers on the drill press. Either a clamp or vice, would prevent the finger injuries if it gets out of your grip.
Thanks so much for thinking of my safety! It is such a bad habit and I will make a meaningful effort to use a vise or clamp next time. Actually, I am going to place a clamp next to my drill press to ensure I remember next time, thanks and cheers!
Nicely done
Thank you! Cheers!
Sweet work
Thank you! Cheers!
I built a similar jig based on the same article that was adapted differently and used a lot of heavier MDF and lumber that had to be adjusted from below . It was also close to 35 pounds when finished. Just too heavy to use. I tried it twice and set it aside, going back to the board and shim method. I am now going to salvage that jig to make yours because your makes sense and looks a lot lighter. Question: How will you store it to keep it flat?
WOW, 35 lbs is a lot! This version is about 15 lbs which is manageable I think; I hang mine on the wall with a couple of 3 inch screw partially in the stud that align to a couple of holes in the bottom of the jig. Hope that helps and thanks for the comment; cheers!
Great!
Thank you!
Very good
Thanks
Those aren't dumbbells they're gravity clamps. Like the video. Will have to make one of these for my pocket planer.
Gravity clamps; Love that!
@RVWoodworks thanks for the lesson and reminder. Wish I saw it sooner...I saw one of those 30 second blips on fb for it from someone else...I had to reply/pause so many times to sketch it out...lol. I certainly prefer full length videos.
You scattered good tips throughout which I also appreciate. So glad I saw you wearing a respirator! Mdf is toxic to breathe and most people don't know it's made with harsh chemicals like formaldehyde...why they decided to use an embalming chemical I'll never understand...
I have 2 suggestions for you...paste wax and washers...if you run paste wax on the bottom of the sled and where the guides glide (love the sandpaper tip!) It will move better.
Washers in between the knobs and connecting surfaces will help it last longer.
The coolest part about this jig is you can transfer the sliders to longer boards if necessary.
Thanks again for the lesson and tips!
This was my introduction to you...glad I found you!
Thanks for your kind comment! You are absolutely right about MDF and glad that you took the time to enlighten the community via this comment, thank you.
Regarding your tips, love them both! I did paste wax the sled but didn't record but the washers is a great idea and will implement the next time I make new leveling bars.
Thanks again and look forward to your future comments.
dang pretty good
Thank you! :)
This was awesome but I’m concerned about the weight of the jig. Once you add the weight of the board to be planed I’m concerned that it would be too heavy. Love the design though. How much did it weigh?
Thanks for your kind comments and apologies for the delayed response; the jig is just shy of 15 lbs thus not the lightest but the return is well worth it if you ask me :)
Possibly the most complex solution to a simple problem I have ever seen. I salute you sir. Next time I find myself losing the will to live I'll go into my workshop and make one of these.
haha; so true and much easier to buy a jointer :) I Hope you enjoyed the build and appreciate your support: Cheers!
💥👍💥 Thanks for sharing excellent build, By for now, your new friend Ken. I look forward to hear from You. Happy new year
Thanks for the kind words; cheers!
I'm new to wood working and have the means to buy new power tools.. The only issue is I have a small workshop. What power jointer/planer would you recommend? Thanks for this video!
Welcome to woodworking;
regarding planers: Dewalt planer is slightly more expensive but it’s the best. You have the means get the one with the helical head blades; you won’t regret it!
Regarding jointer: if you have the space then go for floor standing model but if you are lacking space then get a bench top version with extension arms and try to grab at least an 8 inch. If you get any smaller than you will end up wanting an upgrade very soon.
Hope that helps; I am planning a shop tour video soon which will cover this in more detail; cheers!
Well. I just haven't find any place to get rough lumber in Southern California. Would be great to get rough lumber and mill it myself. If anyone knows a place in Socal I truly appreciate it. Thank you for sharing your knowledge.
I am in Canada but is Hardwood Inc close to you? They are located in San Luis Obispo. Jonathan Katz-Moses just went there in his last video: th-cam.com/video/2ZwgkGHdhiA/w-d-xo.html... If they are not close to you, maybe you can call them and ask for other dealers that are closer to you. Most dealers know about everyone nearby; best of luck with the hunt; cheers!
Very helpful!
Glad to hear; thank you!
That's very nice. Do you find it saves you a lot of time compared to using shims?
Setup time reduced significantly! Honestly, it takes time to build the jig but if you use the jig it pays for itself!
It seems to me that this jig can be modified to use t-tracks instead of the torsion box base. I would have to delve deeper into this thing, but cutting out the torsion box would keep from cutting the planing capacity so much.
That is a great idea, thanks for sharing!
I wish I had tripped over this video a week and $11,000 ago just baught a jointer, but, am planning to make several of these fantastic jigs as gifts for a few of my friends who are also rabid wood workers as am I. Thank you sir and may God bless you and your wood shop.
Eleven grand for a jointer? You have really exquisite tastes. And deep pockets 😂!
11k wow!!! Thank you the kind words and happy building :)
@wrstew1272 I wish I had deep pockets, lol , just what tools cost in my country for even a very average second hand jointer was going to be 6500 so figured "buy once cry once" still bloody hurt though.
Fair; hope the tool lasts a life time for you!
Really like the video thanks, could you let me know the table saw router make and model I am just starting out, any advice would be appreciated
Congrats on getting started with your shop! Table saw is the Rigid R4520 and I have the Boash RA1881 table top & 1617 router!
Here is what it looks like: instagram.com/reel/CrU1v0wsbha/?igsh=Z20zOWc5djMzcWQy
Amazing set but consider getting RA 1173AT dust collection attachment on the router. I just added it and it makes a world of a difference. Look for a review video in the next couple of weeks once I have some time with it.
Very Nice! Only one minor change I might suggest: the T-nuts should be on the inside of the sliders so that when you tighten the thumb screws, they are not trying to push the T-Nuts out of the slider. T_nuts are "nuts" should be used on the end of the bolt, nut the top. Or perhaps use threaded inserts instead of T-nuts.
WOW, what a great suggestion! I hope others that build this jig read this comment before making theres and whenever I make new leveling bars I will for sure implement, thank you.
I have that same planer. I have that same problem I see your board does (snipe on the infeed end). No amount of leveling, making jigs or tricks seems to get rid of it. Thanks for the detailed walk through on making this jig. I'm wondering if any of the parts could be made thinner, to reduce the overall height of the jig, or does that end up losing it's ability to keep things level with flexing?
It's a great planer and definitely under rated. The snipe is a problem but that's true for most planers; the way to fix it is to add a longer in-feed and out-feed bed. For our planer we can joint boards up to 4 inches with the current sled which I find adequate and wouldn't suggest making the jig any slimmer although if you really wanted to you could make the torsion box slimmer but in that case I would use hard wood instead. Hope that helps and I am glad you enjoyed the video. Thanks for the kind words and your support; Cheers!
A question: When you say ‘hardwood’, do you mean something like maple or oak, or could it mean fir or pine as well? I ask because it looks as if you’re using a common 2x4 when you’re cutting it on the table saw. Thanks!
I’m interested in this because I often need to joint wood that is wider than my 6” jointer can handle. And, like you, I’ve had mixed results using a sled with shims.
Fantastic question and hope this sled can help with your woodworking endeavors... When you make the sled please share a pic on my insta and tag me; I would love to see how it turned out (instagram.com/woodworksrv/)
To reply to your question: you can use douglas fir for the leveling bars as long as your bar is thick enough (1.5 or more). I would not use yellow pine, although harder than fir, I find pine tends to have more knots thus has a tendency to warp overtime; more than fir. On the other hand, if you want extreme longevity from the sled, then I would recommend using Oak, Maple or even Birch.
I hope that helped and please let me know if you have any other questions... Cheers!
Try Poplar as well.
Glueing up layers of flat stock for a base on a diy table doesn’t necessarily make it flat without bow or wind. The table you glued it up on would have to be true like a saw top or jointer table.
That’s a really good point; I should have mentioned that on the video… my table is flat but the table saw would have been a much better option! Thanks for calling that out; Cheers!
Nice concept. Little tip when making knobs, instead of sanding them individually you should put a bolt through the holes so you can sand a bunch of them together on the bench drill.
That is such a good idea! I will do that next time for sure; Cheers!
Where can I get a list of lumber needed and the size of wood
www.woodsmithplans.com/plan/double-duty-planer-sled/
To start building this jig you need a notebook and a Guinness Stout. (Ok, probably coffee, but!)
haha, so true... almost every build starts with that notebook and Guinness aka coffee :)
What about square? This makes two sides parallel, but you still haven’t addressed 90 degree corners. A primary use of the jointer.
Thanks for the question; That happens at the table saw once you have one straight edge.
Great idea but I would recommend putting some rubber gasket material on the leveling knobs to prevent vibrational spin that will render the whole build useless
Good call; thank you!
Seems like a lot of work to build a jig. What is wrong with a couple shims and glue. Super easy and I don't spend a couple days building a jig
I agree as long as you are only doing a few boards but when you are going 20 or 30 boards the hot glue tends to rip the mdf board which causes uneven runs on the planer.
I wish I could purchase one of these, instead of the plans. I know, I know..
I know how you feel! But… It will be worth it; cheers
With regards to the demo: To be fair, a plank like that doesn't look very bendy. Likely it'd come out fine without the sled
This sled will really shine in a situation of a thin, bendy, long, wide, and twisted board
100% right; thanks for the view and glad you enjoyed the video.
nice video, Kuya
Thank you, glad you enjoyed the video!
@@RVWoodworks salamat
Have you thought about making these and sell them ???
The fact that you have interest is a massive compliment! I have not and I don’t think I can; I still have a daytime job and just a weekend woodworker for the time being.
Tengo una cepilladora grande y puenzo hacer una de estas esperando no malas criticas de mis colegas vecinos j
Perdon por la tardanza en la respuesta, sabes deberias hacerlos tus amigos, y talvez ayuda que les regales algo hecho por ti jaja, buena suerte!
Is it really too hard for you guys to create plans in metric as well as imperial?? Looks like a great idea and I'll buy the plans regardless, because I can work in both measurement systems. But having both sets of measurements on the digital download would make them more appraling to a broader audience. Thanks for the great video tutorial.
Thanks for your comment; I do need to do a better job about speaking in both metric and imperial; thanks for the feedback. You can actually find the plans in both metric and imperial on this link: www.woodsmithplans.com/plan/double-duty-planer-sled/
Thanks for the support and hope you enjoyed the video: Cheers!
Is that a vape in the background? Hell yeah dude
Cheers!
Well done DIY jig that actually works as it should. But unfortunately you need a bigger and expensive planer to take this jig and the material too. A poorman solution would rather be with doublesided tape anyway.
Thanks for the kind comment; I am able to “joint” about 4 inches but who doesn’t need a better tool :)
interesting
Cheers!
A complicated build but a great idea. The only downside I see is the height of the appliance limiting the thickness of wood you could pass through the planer - but who planes wood that thick??
Thanks for the comment; agree that its not the simplest build but so worth it! Also, you are right, I have yet to get in a situation where I need more thickness.
You need feather boards and stop reaching over your blade when it’s running. You are gonna lose some fingers.
Much appreciate the feedback; I just bought one based on your comment, thank you!
For added stability what could be added at the front and back on each side is a clamping device
Personally, I find the strips that I added in the video enough but that’s a good idea as well! Just make sure it’s not above the wood that needs to be flattened else it will hit the blade.
27:31
Amazing! thanks for watching till the end of the video; cheers!
Bit annoying with the slow sawing on the table saw
Thanks for your comment; I will incorporate your feedback in upcoming videos to reduce slow sawing clips; cheers!
I’m not sure a stud is hardwood
Agreed; although the jig is still holding up, please do as I say not as I do…
@@RVWoodworks I’m sure a 2x4 is plenty tough enough for a jig it just through me off I was expecting maple and then I saw the stamping of a stud.
Fair point; hope you enjoyed the build and joined the baby channel for future videos :)
First you should be talking about straight now level.
Second it would be much more interesting if you cut a part and use it rather then cut cut cut cut before you assemble anything. You would see the part be made and where it goes the the next part and where it goes. You can get bored watching parts being ripped and set aside for later.
You are absolutely right and thanks for the correction; I also appreciate your feedback and will try and incorporate in my future videos... Hopefully you will continue to provide feedback to help grow the channel; cheers!
Now the third and fourth face…?
Thanks for your question and apologies for the late reply; I would use a tapering jig to clean up side 3 and the with side 3 against the fence I would clean up side 4 on the table saw. Actually, I have a video upcoming in the next few weeks where I show this exact process; Cheers!
@@RVWoodworks I'll stick with how I've been doing it for 40 years with dead flat and accurate thickness along it's length. Straight and to width.
How is that? I would love to learn!
Ma per favore😂
You keep saying to use hardwoord, but you're clearly using pine. 😕
So true and good catch! Do as I say rather than I do, please… I built this during the holidays and I was unable to source hardwood. Nonetheless, although not ideal, spruce or pine can work as well but the jig just won’t last as long.
Beautiful creation. Mr. Rod from "My Garage Woodshop" made this 6 years ago. It's a shame you don't pay homage to him in your video th-cam.com/video/DNg9BV4IF2Q/w-d-xo.htmlsi=W2eOppZVbCRJz8HF!! 🤭 Greetings RV
Thanks for highlighting; I did add the link to the description but I forgot to mention it during the voice over. Good Catch and Cheers!
You might want to consider your push blocks more consistently so you keep your fingers. You need them!
My wife said the same thing, just not as nicely :) All jokes aside you are absolutely right! Thank you, Cheers!
I am sorry, I am very interested in a jig like this , but I stopped watching the moment he pushes the wood without a pusher with his fingers inches away from the blade.
Safety first always always always
Such a fair comment and appreciate you calling that out; I will make an effort to ensure I remember your comment every time I walk into my shop.
Overly complicated
Why do you feel it’s overly complicated? I agree there are other simpler jigs which I showcased in the beginning but those can get very time consuming if you are levelling multiple boards.
Very good
Thanks
Am I missing something! I can't see how this is going to work with a "cupped" board? You are still going to have to wedge one side. Well, on second thought ... I suppose you can double up the number of leveling bars and use them in pairs to be able to raise both sides simultaneously to deal with the cup. Thoughts?
Nice callout… minor cupping can be handled by the current sled but major issues might require additional bar or a better source of lumber :)
great video, there is one thing I don't understand. you have two opposites sides of the board parallel to each other. But the other two sides with are opposite to each other are not. don't you need one flat side and one parallel side? Which is what you would get from a jointer. I don't see how you flatten and parallel the other two sides. Please explain.
Great question! I would now use one of those sides to put on a tapering jig to get a 90° cut on the table saw. Actually, I’m in the process of building something that’s going do just that so stay tuned and you’ll see it in action.
How will this fit through the average planer with a 6-inch capacity?
Most planners I’ve worked with are 12 inches and wider. Usually jointers are 6 - 8 inches; but… I guess you could alter the plans to make it fit a 6 inch planer as well. By the way can you share the model number and manufacturer for your planer? I’ve never seen one that small before.
I meant height capacity. I have a 13" DeWalt DX735. The max height is 6.
Ohhhh I see; fair question… the height of this jig is 3.5 - 3.75 inches (depending on how much to raise or lower the levellers) thus you will still be able to run a 2 inch board easily. If you have boards that are thicker, you might need to make the jig a little bit smaller in height.
Gotcha. I plane a lot of thick wood.
I really appreciate this because while I do have a jointer I often have to joint boards that are too wide for it like you said. And while a jointer sled works for the narrow edge of a board you can’t flatten a 11-13 inch board with it. I have been using the msg and wedge method since I first got my planer but it’s a pain because you have to clean off the hot glue you used to secure it. As soon as I can get back into my shop I’m going to build this. Ty for your video, ty for being real and admitting to mistakes and ty for your video being not only complete but easy to watch and understand
I am glad you enjoyed the video and thanks for the kind words!
Your absolutely right. This jig will save time and effort. Will be building one in the very near future. Thanks for imparting the knowledge, very much appreciated.
Right on; glad you enjoyed the build!
Very creative idea. I work out of a 8' x 12' shed and have no room for a jointer. This is definitely my next shop project. Me and Mr. No.6 Stanley will no longer be jointing boards together after this.
Right on! Good luck; Plz feel free to reach out if you have any questions and share a pic on insta instagram.com/woodworksrv
Nicely done.
Thank you! Cheers!
an incredible idea
Thank you!
Not "level"...in plane.
Hi, thanks for you comment but not sure I understand what you are saying... Could you elaborate please?
@@RVWoodworks when you say you are "leveling" it is incorrect. You are verifying that the elements are in plane. "Level" refers to just that...like a slab is level, or not. Cabinets...anything requireing a true level. Can you refer to level on a boat? It's the same thing, your reference depends on factors not relevent to the machine. I'm a 4.5 decade carpenter/cabinetmaker/contractor...I think if we educate, we should educate properly. Absolutely no disrespect, you are doing solid work...but
it's all in the language!
Oh thats a great comment; thank you for that! Really appreciate you taking the time to enlighten; cheers!
Very detailed and precise but one mistake. You have your shirt buttoned to the top.
That says something!!¡!!
Agreed that I need to loosen up a bit; still new to all this but appreciate your suggestion and comment; Cheers!