There is also an option to revert back to the old style water pump with no shield covering the impeller, if interested in that option I would recommend searching for compatible options online or through a parts supplier. As always thanks for watching 😀
I went for the no shield option when I had the same problem , it's about £80 cheaper and you will never have that failure point again , all the shield does is help the engine heat up quicker in very cold climates , in the UK you will never notice the difference , iliminate a weak point and save yourself some money :)
What it could be if ive got New pump without shield on already and seems like there is no correct flow? Both electric pump seems to be working fine so a heating is. Engine overheats quick once driven. It does cooling down only with full heating on. On idling it will comes down to 70 after a while.
I am on the 2nd cambelt on this type of engine, always done the water pump in the process. What people do not realize is are a lot of revisions on this water pump and was a time when a new revision was showing up every month or so... as i am writing this the latest is 04L121011N for that pump. People should know the system has another 2 electric pumps one cooling the intake and another auxiliary just behind the sump above driveshaft... ecu controlled.
I had this very same issue with my vehicle an vw golf gtd mk7 2013 with 93000 miles on the clock. The symptom's were that the vehicle would overheat after a short journey and therefore carry on overheating until I got the problem solved. It started one day when I was travelling to a destination some 10 miles or so from my residential home. The vehicle temperature caused the warning on the dash board for myself to pull over and stop. The coolant temperature was in excess of 120 degrees. It took a short time for temp to fall with the help of the engine fan switching on only for then to almost immediately do the same again after a restart. New gates timing belt and pump fitted at local garage eliminated the problem where the pump in this kit does not have the invertor fitted. I did get a fault code prior to this, not too sure whether it was related or not where the secondary water pump showed up as been locked. I replaced this with a new vw one thinking this was causing the overheating problem but the problem persisted. The fault code subsequently kept reappearing after a short while but then vanished once I got the kit fitted.
Fantastic video ! My vw polo 2019 is intermittently overheating like the thermostat it stuck and suddenly un sticks but I’m thinking old school being 62yo 😂 hate these new cars !
Imperative in a lot of cases, one can easily get caught out when systems change. Thanks for watching mate and we must set time aside over the xmas break for a catch up 🎄🙏🎅🎁
I have twice had overheating issues - one with 'stop' warning light, in the last two months. Ambient air temp 16 and 19 degrees c, oil and coolant levels all good, second time when I had no warning light the water temp needle was showing approx 100 deg, oil temp 91-94, radiator fan was running and temp came back down in a few minutes. Heater works. So i suspect my shield is getting sticky. Oddly VW main dealer did the cam belt AND (suppossedely) water pump about 3 years/40k miles ago. I did see fault codes with Carista on the first occurance - sure it said something to do with heater matrix or AC though?
Hi, I am looking for some advice. I bought a 53 plate audi a3 2.0 tdi sports back 6 months ago and it had an undisclosed over heating problem. I know it's a 53 plate but I like it and it's my second car. When I first got it, it would over heat and drop it's coolant. I have solved the coolant problem but it still tries to overheat. I have spent 2 grand so far and the problem still persists. I have had the timing belt and water pump, thermostat, coolant sensor and radiator replaced, probably forgot some stuff aswell. It is getting better but still tries to over heat if am doing about 70 and tun the heaters down low. Any advice would be welcome, thanks
Hello, I have a problem with a pasat b8 2015 with manual transmission. engine temperature is difficult to raise. When it gets up to 90 degrees, after a while the temperature starts to drop when the cabin fan is turned on. I have replaced the thermostat several times and the water pump has been replaced with a new one and the temperature is still dropping
We are Germanstiens. We will engineer it in the way where each part can potentially fail. Yes, we will design it that way with as many points of failure as possible. Yes, we will make so much money repairing it. Perfect. Sell it now.
Yes completely lost all coolant. Water pump leakage, google it. Common issue to ea888 gen 3. If it is your first time to have this issue, talk to the dealers, should cover under goodwill@MamasRecipes.
Don't all water cooled engines have a thermostat? Usually thats the issue provided no water loss. Water pump definetly could be an issue. Electronics, just more things to go wrong.
Hello Thomas, Thanks for watching and interacting on the video. You are 100% spot on, A thermostat can absolutely cause that, as could a blockage in the cooling system or possibly a faulty cap too. I tried to focus the video predominantly on the fault at hand and share knowledge based around these engines and the symptoms. As with all my videos I try to include information that can be very useful to people and in hindsight I would put some additional information on this one to include thermostat as well for people that have landed on this video, especially if they have other makes and models of vehicles. As always thanks for watching and I appreciate the question 🙏🙏🙌🙌
Just wondering mate basically me and my dad heading to a car show we was sat in traffic on idle for a little maybe half hour to an hour and the temps would get high and dump water out ?
Question on that i just bought my vw 1 month ago its done 108k miles bie the vw they say timing belt change at 140k miles and i am planing on doing that,and now i ran into same problem tho with no fault codes i did put a bit off liquid in the coolant to get it to the max and 2 weeks drive im again close to minmum, if water pump aint working that the liquid goes where?? Building preasure on engine it self 🤔 if i put again liquid in to fill to max will it slowly burst to the engine compartment in cylinder 🤔
Yes, yet another design that is meant to save a few pence of fuel but could end up becoming a head job or new engine. (Granted if it service was over due it would come down to the owner) Same situation as before when the old metal waterpumps got change for plastic ones, until they realised a large proportion of new plastic ones were cracking, breaking apart, jamming and seizing up, and the design was changed. Must of sounded great in a board room all them saving for the company, but then costing engines, heads and head gaskets under warranty. Or they try and do what Ford commonly does and says they aren't covering it under warranty, until they get taken to court and sued for negligence, breach of warranty coverage, and in some cases danger to the customer and road users, then they have to payout or do a recall. It happens all the time in Engineering (I studied Mechanical Engineering) you can only find out so much in a lab and simulations. The real world is the final test scenario. Plus quality control and variations in manufacturing from different companies who supply OEM parts all play a factor. Fun fact, a friend of mine worked at Aston Martin in a managerial role in manufacturing (in the last 5 years), and they know a batch of a few hundred of their sports cars has contamination of either the metal or paint which will cause rust in the future. But it would be too expensive for them to do a recall, so knowingly they have released cars which will have rust issues in the future, hoping they are out of warranty by that point.
Un problema così, si può risolvere montandone una senza solenoide così non si ripresenterà il problema, ovvio un mio pensiero. Complimenti per il Video-spiegazione così adesso ho un'informazione in più grazie a te. 💯👍🏻
I have a problem with my b6 passat .engine 1.6 . tdi When engine is cold I can drive anywhere. But when engine warms up around 90 degree it's impossible to drive . When I am driving when I accelerating the engine is cutting out and jerking it's only happens when engine is hot but when engine is cold I have no problems. Can anyone help. Thanks
Hi Gerard, My Caddy 2014/15 2.0 TDI started to overheat all of a sudden , 200 000 Km on the clock .... I managed to get home controlling the temperature by running my Heater and its fan which worked for me.... I was 1 hour away from my house .... As a test every time I turned off the cabin heater the temp would start to climb rapidly again and if I turned on the heater again the temp went back to 90 Degrees where it normally is .... In your opinion do you think it is my water pump?
Cheers for sharing Ger. Just a quick questions, from memory, how many miles had the engine covered before this electro/mechanical w.pump failure? Cheers Chris.
My water pump was replaced less than a year ago along with the cambelt at 90k service but I just had the overheat warning pop up while doing 140km/h and the gauge was at about 3/4 of the way so I let go of the accelerator to slow down and within that time between 140 and 100 the gauge went back to just below 90. I just got back yesterday from doing about 1800 kilometer trip but never had any warnings. Any idea?
"More electronics to improve efficiency", that car is very efficient burning no fuel broken down at the side of the road 😂. I miss the days of simpler cars and less electrics to go wrong.
There is also an option to revert back to the old style water pump with no shield covering the impeller, if interested in that option I would recommend searching for compatible options online or through a parts supplier.
As always thanks for watching 😀
I went for the no shield option when I had the same problem , it's about £80 cheaper and you will never have that failure point again , all the shield does is help the engine heat up quicker in very cold climates , in the UK you will never notice the difference , iliminate a weak point and save yourself some money :)
@@666markyboywhat part did you go for?
@@DJgoon12 I dont know the part number , I went to GSF and they offered me the 2 options
What it could be if ive got New pump without shield on already and seems like there is no correct flow? Both electric pump seems to be working fine so a heating is. Engine overheats quick once driven. It does cooling down only with full heating on. On idling it will comes down to 70 after a while.
I am on the 2nd cambelt on this type of engine, always done the water pump in the process. What people do not realize is are a lot of revisions on this water pump and was a time when a new revision was showing up every month or so... as i am writing this the latest is 04L121011N for that pump. People should know the system has another 2 electric pumps one cooling the intake and another auxiliary just behind the sump above driveshaft... ecu controlled.
I had this very same issue with my vehicle an vw golf gtd mk7 2013 with 93000 miles on the clock. The symptom's were that the vehicle would overheat after a short journey and therefore carry on overheating until I got the problem solved. It started one day when I was travelling to a destination some 10 miles or so from my residential home. The vehicle temperature caused the warning on the dash board for myself to pull over and stop. The coolant temperature was in excess of 120 degrees. It took a short time for temp to fall with the help of the engine fan switching on only for then to almost immediately do the same again after a restart. New gates timing belt and pump fitted at local garage eliminated the problem where the pump in this kit does not have the invertor fitted. I did get a fault code prior to this, not too sure whether it was related or not where the secondary water pump showed up as been locked. I replaced this with a new vw one thinking this was causing the overheating problem but the problem persisted. The fault code subsequently kept reappearing after a short while but then vanished once I got the kit fitted.
Thanks for sharing Ger 🔧👍 keep sharing the service resets please they are very much appreciated regards Eric 🇮🇪
💯💯
Fantastic video ! My vw polo 2019 is intermittently overheating like the thermostat it stuck and suddenly un sticks but I’m thinking old school being 62yo 😂 hate these new cars !
Good info mate. It's important to understand how things work so you can use the correct testing techniques. Well done!
Imperative in a lot of cases, one can easily get caught out when systems change.
Thanks for watching mate and we must set time aside over the xmas break for a catch up 🎄🙏🎅🎁
@@GerardBurkeBurkesGarage Absolutely 🤗😁
Great video once again Gerard all to common problem on vag vehicles.🚗🇮🇪👍👍
Cheers Jay, much appreciated. Agreed it is all too common : (
Do you have video on changing that charge air cooler on that engine
Would no coolant on your return line be a sign the water pump is bad as well?
Yes, that was my problem too
I've got this kind of intermittent behaviour now but my water pump was only changed 3 Years and about 20,000 miles ago
Good video. Just wondering if this system is as robust as the old fashioned water pump which has a long life, the one with the metal impeller.
I have twice had overheating issues - one with 'stop' warning light, in the last two months. Ambient air temp 16 and 19 degrees c, oil and coolant levels all good, second time when I had no warning light the water temp needle was showing approx 100 deg, oil temp 91-94, radiator fan was running and temp came back down in a few minutes. Heater works. So i suspect my shield is getting sticky. Oddly VW main dealer did the cam belt AND (suppossedely) water pump about 3 years/40k miles ago. I did see fault codes with Carista on the first occurance - sure it said something to do with heater matrix or AC though?
Hi, I am looking for some advice. I bought a 53 plate audi a3 2.0 tdi sports back 6 months ago and it had an undisclosed over heating problem.
I know it's a 53 plate but I like it and it's my second car.
When I first got it, it would over heat and drop it's coolant.
I have solved the coolant problem but it still tries to overheat.
I have spent 2 grand so far and the problem still persists.
I have had the timing belt and water pump, thermostat, coolant sensor and radiator replaced, probably forgot some stuff aswell.
It is getting better but still tries to over heat if am doing about 70 and tun the heaters down low.
Any advice would be welcome, thanks
Hello, I have a problem with a pasat b8 2015 with manual transmission. engine temperature is difficult to raise. When it gets up to 90 degrees, after a while the temperature starts to drop when the cabin fan is turned on. I have replaced the thermostat several times and the water pump has been replaced with a new one and the temperature is still dropping
We are Germanstiens. We will engineer it in the way where each part can potentially fail. Yes, we will design it that way with as many points of failure as possible. Yes, we will make so much money repairing it. Perfect. Sell it now.
Excellent presentation. D
My B8 Passat 1.8t tsi has the issue, epc engine lights on, power down to 40%. Will see dealer tomorrow morning.
What was it ?
Water pump, famous problem @MamasRecipes.
Did you have coolant leaks ?
Or only heating
Yes completely lost all coolant. Water pump leakage, google it. Common issue to ea888 gen 3. If it is your first time to have this issue, talk to the dealers, should cover under goodwill@MamasRecipes.
It looks stuck because of the oxidation. Won't removing rust and lubricating solve this issue?
From where coolant pump get pressure to switch?
Don't all water cooled engines have a thermostat? Usually thats the issue provided no water loss. Water pump definetly could be an issue. Electronics, just more things to go wrong.
Hello Thomas,
Thanks for watching and interacting on the video.
You are 100% spot on, A thermostat can absolutely cause that, as could a blockage in the cooling system or possibly a faulty cap too.
I tried to focus the video predominantly on the fault at hand and share knowledge based around these engines and the symptoms.
As with all my videos I try to include information that can be very useful to people and in hindsight I would put some additional information on this one to include thermostat as well for people that have landed on this video, especially if they have other makes and models of vehicles.
As always thanks for watching and I appreciate the question 🙏🙏🙌🙌
Great video, thanks 👍
❤️🤗
From where its get the air pressure to activate that????
Just wondering mate basically me and my dad heading to a car show we was sat in traffic on idle for a little maybe half hour to an hour and the temps would get high and dump water out ?
Question on that i just bought my vw 1 month ago its done 108k miles bie the vw they say timing belt change at 140k miles and i am planing on doing that,and now i ran into same problem tho with no fault codes i did put a bit off liquid in the coolant to get it to the max and 2 weeks drive im again close to minmum, if water pump aint working that the liquid goes where?? Building preasure on engine it self 🤔 if i put again liquid in to fill to max will it slowly burst to the engine compartment in cylinder 🤔
Great job Gerard, Thank You👍🙏🙏🙂🌲☘
Thanks a million Pat 🙏🙏, I hope you are well and the family are ready for 🎅 🇮🇪
Looks like yet another design fault in a part that's meant to save fuel, but could end up costing you a new engine.
Yes, yet another design that is meant to save a few pence of fuel but could end up becoming a head job or new engine. (Granted if it service was over due it would come down to the owner)
Same situation as before when the old metal waterpumps got change for plastic ones, until they realised a large proportion of new plastic ones were cracking, breaking apart, jamming and seizing up, and the design was changed. Must of sounded great in a board room all them saving for the company, but then costing engines, heads and head gaskets under warranty. Or they try and do what Ford commonly does and says they aren't covering it under warranty, until they get taken to court and sued for negligence, breach of warranty coverage, and in some cases danger to the customer and road users, then they have to payout or do a recall.
It happens all the time in Engineering (I studied Mechanical Engineering) you can only find out so much in a lab and simulations. The real world is the final test scenario. Plus quality control and variations in manufacturing from different companies who supply OEM parts all play a factor.
Fun fact, a friend of mine worked at Aston Martin in a managerial role in manufacturing (in the last 5 years), and they know a batch of a few hundred of their sports cars has contamination of either the metal or paint which will cause rust in the future. But it would be too expensive for them to do a recall, so knowingly they have released cars which will have rust issues in the future, hoping they are out of warranty by that point.
Where is the water pump locate?
Un problema così, si può risolvere montandone una senza solenoide così non si ripresenterà il problema, ovvio un mio pensiero.
Complimenti per il Video-spiegazione così adesso ho un'informazione in più grazie a te. 💯👍🏻
I have a problem with my b6 passat .engine 1.6 . tdi
When engine is cold I can drive anywhere. But when engine warms up around 90 degree it's impossible to drive .
When I am driving when I accelerating the engine is cutting out and jerking it's only happens when engine is hot but when engine is cold I have no problems. Can anyone help. Thanks
Hi Gerard, My Caddy 2014/15 2.0 TDI started to overheat all of a sudden , 200 000 Km on the clock .... I managed to get home controlling the temperature by running my Heater and its fan which worked for me.... I was 1 hour away from my house .... As a test every time I turned off the cabin heater the temp would start to climb rapidly again and if I turned on the heater again the temp went back to 90 Degrees where it normally is .... In your opinion do you think it is my water pump?
I really (99% sure) think that its the thermostat failure rather than water pump
Cheers for sharing Ger.
Just a quick questions, from memory, how many miles had the engine covered before this electro/mechanical w.pump failure?
Cheers Chris.
60,000 miles for me , it had literally come up for it's cambelt change so I did the lot in one go
My water pump was replaced less than a year ago along with the cambelt at 90k service but I just had the overheat warning pop up while doing 140km/h and the gauge was at about 3/4 of the way so I let go of the accelerator to slow down and within that time between 140 and 100 the gauge went back to just below 90. I just got back yesterday from doing about 1800 kilometer trip but never had any warnings. Any idea?
Did you solve your problem? I have replaced water pump but only after 1500 km it started randomly overheating again...
Good video. Do you think a flush with wd40 in the flush would relax it??
Electronic devices are getting better day by day and automobile is becoming worse every year 😂
❤ супер.
🙏🙏👌
👍🇵🇱
"More electronics to improve efficiency", that car is very efficient burning no fuel broken down at the side of the road 😂. I miss the days of simpler cars and less electrics to go wrong.