Traditional Clinker Construction Episode 5: The Clinker Planking Process

The Sydney Wooden Boat School Summer School Class of '99 built two dinghies. In this episode they're up to planking. Ian Smith explains the process of clinker (lapstrake) planking, distilling his years of experience of explaining it to first-timers.

[@robcottrell6370]

Great stuff Ian ,thanks for all your hard work putting these videos together.

[@SklumfThe]

I have recently taken an interest in carpentry and was looking at maybe trying my hand at boatbuilding. I was looking all over the web for some forums or blogs or a video series with some details on how to get started until I stumbled across your channel. I love that your videos are very detailed and well put together. They have been a lot of help with getting started. Anyway, much love from Canada.

[@daleskidmore1685]

I am enjoying and learning a lot from this series, Ian. I am part way through researching prior to starting a project myself and this record has come along at just the right time. Keep on keeping on

[@seanmcardle]

This man is a master. Bravo

[@michielouwersloot8136]

Thx Ian for showing howto!👍

[@cricciethcastle5077]

Talking about "spiling", there are ways of avoiding all that construction work with dividers. It's only necessary if the planks are significantly curved, and if the distance of the offset between the existing plank and the line on the pattern is large. For a 2" offset and an angle of 10 degrees at the ends of the plank, the error in just marking out a constant gap is only 1/32" - same as the width of a pencil line. For 2" and 15 degrees, it's 1/16", and 2" 20 degrees 1/8" (starting to get a bit much if you want a nice fit without "fiddling"). For a 4" offset, double these errors. Or, you just set the dividers to be parallel with the direction in which you want to slide the new plank sideways to fit the existing plank. Plus or minus 5 or 10 degrees on lining up the dividers should be fine, depending on the offset. I always rough saw the new plank out leaving spare on each edge anyway, to relieve stresses, to give the best fit over the moulds/battens, then you can mark off the existing plank edge very accurately because the offset is small.

[@iowapanner2223]

Another excellent video!!!
It's almost 40 years since I built a boat
and this would of been a valuable tool
to have although I would of had to choose
between 'super 8' and the relatively new VCR!!!
Thanks for sharing.

[@thomasarussellsr]

Might have been BetaMax.

[@mattmitchell5844]

Those clamps are great.

[@hanoitripper1809]

This would be a great school to attened

[@timabbott2722]

Where is episode 6?
Still coming?
I'm anxious to see the rest. Great stuff. Thanks.

[@SmithysBoatshed]

Episode 6 Steaming the Ribs will be out in about a month.

[@timabbott2722]

Thanks.
I'm learning a lot form these videos.

[@ivancho5854]

The name Gerald comes from the Old Germanic word for spear. Die Gerade in modern German can translate as straight or a linear slope.
All the best.

[@SmithysBoatshed]

Thanks for that info.

[@paulbriggs3072]

You mentioned "Aussie style clinker speed boats" at the 3:55 mark. Are there any plans or photos of such boats out there that you could point me too?

[@SmithysBoatshed]

Have a look at David Payne’s 17’ ski boat plans on www.sydneywoodenboatschool.com.au They are drawn for ply clinker construction.

[@user-uo8du3vp2u]

хорошо.

[@budnotu]

We call it linning off .

[@Pali65]

Watching this accurate fine tuning I just can't stop thinking of Vikings. How on Earth did they manage to build THEIR boats with limited resources they had???

[@stauffap]

I'm pretty sure he's just overcomplicating it. It doesn't need to be that difficult. I guess, he's a perfectionist and over the years he just picked up too many tricks to perfect the end result.

[@thomasarussellsr]

Large crews and brute force, maybe? Hewing axes?

[@steveleblanc6007]

Don’t clinker boats leak like hell?

[@SmithysBoatshed]

Some do.

[@user-tv2nn6pc3h]

На десятой минуте рассказывает неправильно. Несмотря на то, что доски тангенциального распила при высыхании стремятся выгнуться наружу, образовывая жёлоб со стороны заболони и горб со стороны сердцевины, крепить их к набору надо заболонью НАРУЖУ. Если последовать совету автора этого видео и расположить их наружу СЕРДЦЕВИНОЙ, то при изгибе вдоль будут отщепляться слои древесины, перерезанные при распиле бревна. Поперечное коробление досок в обшивке "внакрой" не имеет значения, т.к. тонкие и узкие доски надёжно раскреплены частым крепежом, а возникающее напряжение ликвидируется распариванием.
Подобное расположение досок (сердцевиной наружу) может быть допустимо при использовании не пиленых, а - колотых досок (как в древности кололи доски из цельного бревна), без перерезания слоёв древесины (если только это возможно).