Thanks so much for sharing! I have two of this exact same model which I've been thinking about RGB modding for a while, looks like it'll be fairly straight forward especially with that unpopulated header sitting there ready to go
@@RyanUkAus All done, it works a treat! I ended up down a deep reverse engineering rabbit hole, and managed to route the RGB signal via the AV2 input which is normally software-disabled on this TV but can be enabled in the service menu. As a result the RGB input can be selected via the remote and doesn't override the AV1 or RF inputs. It has its own independent audio input too which is nice. It took a while to figure it all out but the final hardware mods are actually pretty simple. Might be something that others are interested in, I'm thinking about making a walkthrough video about it. If I do I'll post a followup comment here. Thanks again for the motivation, I'm really happy with the way this turned out!
@@bensloman5996 He said exactly as it is - it was available on the European brands but not on the Sony/Panasonic/Mitsubishi TVs (apart from a few in the late 80s when they were made in the UK. Other brands to have scart were AWA, Orion Teac and some Sanyo. It wasn't on every TV like in Europe. Commodore 1080 series monitors also had scart.
I feel you with the RGB, here in South America (Uruguay and Argentina) we are PAL region too and we never got Trinitron with Scart connector only PVM's and some european brands but they were not common at all.
It’s the same in Australia, some of the more upmarket European TV’s such as Philips would have SCART but very few Japanese brands do. I’ve noticed most Trinitrons in Australia are dual voltage PAL & NTSC with lower specs (a lot of even the bigger sets are mono). I suspect Australia got some of the cheaper Asian market Trinitrons and not the European spec!
Wow. I've just started testing with an old JVC CRT that seems to have the same ghosting problem. I'm going to check if I can fix it with DVM in the JVC service mode.
I have a 2005 or 2006 awesome Samsung CRT, never seen a picture quite like it colours are so rich I had to turn them down as others have said they are oversaturated. Anyway the shell of tv at back has cutouts for component and I want to add component to it and/or just make the scart socket component compatble so I can use it as a monitor for PC. Have no idea if thats doable though.
You'll have to see if the video IC / Jungle chip in the TV can accept component, a lot of them can surprisingly but getting it to display might be tricky! You'll have to try and dig up a service manual for the TV or video IC!
how is the tv going 3 years later? I just did one to a 20" bg2 chassis, was even easier than this as the back panel where you can mount scart or bnc is still attached to the chassis when you take the rear cover off so no need for connectors or awkward wiring poking when you screw the back cover on.
This is honestly one of the to the point vids I've seen on RGB modding. Did you add resistors for Yb\Pb\R inputs? Like 75ohms to ground for RGB lines? I have a input for RGB on my set but I'm not sure if I have to terminate to ground
For this model TV the RGB inputs were already terminated and had decoupling capacitors in place, it probably couldn't have been much easier and ready to go! Some similar era Sony's and Philips will be the same.
@@RyanUkAus Omg you actually replied thank god! I was trying to do this mod today but I'm running into a weird issue. When I wire up CN001, for RGB and BLK, I see nothing on the screen. If I hit the blanking with 3.5 Volts the image becomes inverted. If I hit it with 5V it triggers some sort of protection circuit and the set turns off. In the service manual, the rated value for that section is 0V. Did you split the BLK to get 2.5V or more or less? I know it's not the exact same thing but any help would be appreciated
I’ll have to check next time I’m around that TV (it’s in storage atm) If I recall my BLK is wired directly to pin 16 on my SCART connector and gets it from the console
Apologies for delay, I had to dig this TV out the shed. What I did might not apply for your TV, so it would be best to know what set you're trying to mod as some use Sony CXA chips rather than Philips TDA. Mine is done exactly as seen in the video, the RGBIN on the TDA chip is wired to SCART pin 16 with a resistor in series (I forget the value, I guess 220 to 1K ohms). Sync from the scart connector just goes straight to AV1 / 2 (whichever you select will correctly sync to the RGB signal. The inverted image problem is weird, make sure your sync signal is grounded is all I can think of off the bat!
Definitely have a browse for some schematics to help get you started, or open it up and see what the jungle IC is. You can usually find some data sheets on the video chips to see whether it’ll accept RGB and what it needs to make it happy!
So, I was wondering, all SCART cables have the same pinout no matter which console? I got two Sony Trinitron and at least one I'd like to make that mod in it.
For the most part Australia is the same, there are a few European branded televisions here (Philips, Loewe, Grundig, etc) that do come with SCART but they’re far and few between! When I lived in the UK some adverts for CRT era TV’s would mention SCART for RGB home micro computer connection, it might have been more popular in Europe due to the home computers used there - more BBC, Amstrad, Sinclair for instance with native RGB output!
I have a unrelated question. Have you tested any NTSC devices through composite? Because I used the 25 inch version of this and it didn't work in colour despite the manual saying it would?
I’ve had no issues with NTSC, in saying that I haven’t tried NTSC @ 50Hz or PAL @ 60Hz. If it uses the sync Hz to determine which colour carrier to use you might have issues (which I’ve had with other CRTs)
Hey dude, I have a similar TV. The only question I have is around the Sync line. I see you are soldering it into the sync line on the back of the SCART, are you just splicing it back into the composite line for the AV channel your using?
That's right, if you go from SCART composite in to the composite in for AV1 then your SCART picture will work / sync on AV1 for example. You can use the other AV inputs too if you want it on AV2 or AV3.
@@RyanUkAus Thanks, now to figuire out how to make all this work with Mister as its RGB over RCA. I assume using the Y Luma\Sync into Composite for Sync would be the same?
Hi Ryan, Thanks very much for this awesome video - I have same model Telly only the F1 using the TDA8366 with the RGB input also - Also have the unpopulated CN106 so should be fairly straight forward. Just wondering if you can supply a wiring diagram with the components used for both ends? I'm wanting to use this telly for my Old Amiga 1200. Cheers Tom From Perth!
Hey! I don’t have any wiring diagrams but it should be very straightforward if you have a SCART pinout. It’s essentially taking R G B and pin 16 (RGB BLK) from the SCART connector to the unpopulated connector in the TV. Sync comes from composite on the SCART connector, I wired my sync to the composite input AV 1 / 2 which means when I select that channel I get my image. Same for audio, it comes from the SCART connector to the audio inputs on AV 1 / 2. Composite ground and audio ground will need grounding too (can use ground from AV 1/2 ground). The A1200 should work just fine using a Amiga SCART lead, my A2000 worked just fine!
@@kodi-thefunnyfrenchie7693 You can put a 100 ohm resistor from the SCART connector (pin 16) to the blanking on the TV, it should work going to the unpopulated connector. It'll just knock the voltage down a little bit. It worked with a 100 ohm and a 1k ohm when I tried it! The Philips chip just needs the voltage to be a little reduced it seems.
Great video. I have a Trinitron with the same BG-1S chassis. I looked in the schematics and it looks like the rgb “lines” form a single line to the blanking input on the jungle chip. Would this affect the mod?
The RGB lines should stay separate up until the video IC / jungle chip, usually you can see them next to some terminating resistors and capacitors. Blanking usually also stays separated right from the jungle chip to the input (sometimes on a unpopulated connector board)
If there's an unpopulated connector on the board why does your SCART port have 5 wires to somewhere other than the unpopulated connector? I have this exact model and I want to repeat the process. I'm pretty handy with a soldering iron and have a good enough grasp of things that I feel confident I can mod this and add the right resistor to drop the voltage (someone else in the comments suggested it's a 1k5 to drop to 2.6v from 5v on the blinking pin).
There isn’t an unpopulated SCART connector, but an unpopulated IC connector that accepts RGB. The additional wires are going to one of the rear AV ports for sync (off composite) and L+R audio. If you need any help feel free to ask over Discord!
I’ve done this for a few people locally, I usually ask $50aud + parts but I’ve been given more every time as that’s apparently too cheap. Too busy to do it these days sadly but I’m always happy to help advise
@@RyanUkAus I have been looking for one for years but without success since I live in Mexico and it is difficult to acquire such things, thanks for the reply and I hope to see you soon
please help, when I turn RGB switch on I got black screen only audio work , when I turn of RGB I got regular composite signel , i tried getting the voltage under 2.5V (2.3V for Blankin) ,But when i turn on the TV, the 2.3V blankin become 5V, i dont know why, (again im using 5V from scart consol, i dont know how to find 5V on the TV board)
The SCART connector I just found on eBay - you will want a connector with mounting holes. As for the wires and resistor I just got them from a local electronics store (which I worked for at the time!). If I recall you will want to use a 100 Ohm / 150 Ohm resistor for BLK to switch the TV to RGB mode.
hey ryan, thanks for your helpful video. a sony kv-2964mt popped out at my local area, i found the schematics online and i suspect there is an unpopulated connector for rgb there but i wasnt sure, would you confirm it for me? i could send you the schematics, let me know if youre up for it 😀
Hey, you’re welcome to send the schematic through discord to me, let me know where you think the unpopulated connector is! I had a very quick look at a few schematics but they were low quality, it suggested the TV uses a CXA1213 chip which doesn’t handle RGB inputs by itself I believe. There could be circuitry on the TV that still does do it however!
It was something I made myself using Music 2000 for the PS1 a while ago, I made a few backing tracks for videos that way but unfortunately lost them when my HD failed last year!
Great pickup on the DVM setting for the ghosting on composite video sync.
My family used to have a Sanyo widescreen CRT that had SCART on the back! But we never used it for gaming, only for the Foxtel lol.
Thanks so much for sharing! I have two of this exact same model which I've been thinking about RGB modding for a while, looks like it'll be fairly straight forward especially with that unpopulated header sitting there ready to go
Best of luck, interested to see how you go!
@@RyanUkAus All done, it works a treat! I ended up down a deep reverse engineering rabbit hole, and managed to route the RGB signal via the AV2 input which is normally software-disabled on this TV but can be enabled in the service menu. As a result the RGB input can be selected via the remote and doesn't override the AV1 or RF inputs. It has its own independent audio input too which is nice. It took a while to figure it all out but the final hardware mods are actually pretty simple. Might be something that others are interested in, I'm thinking about making a walkthrough video about it. If I do I'll post a followup comment here. Thanks again for the motivation, I'm really happy with the way this turned out!
@@mahlty That's awesome and would love to see a video on it!
@@mahlty Hi I'd love to hear more about this. I have the same model TV and I'm keen to mod it for RGB with the more advanced method you've discovered
Woooow beautiful CRT I want it! Trinitron are awesome 😎👍
Great video Ryan! I feel bad for all the Australians never getting RGB Scart. Its such a huge difference from composite.
We did have rgb scart, I don't know what he's on about. Maby not as prevalent as Europe, but not exactly rare either.
@@bensloman5996I have seen some Australian CRTs with RGB SCART but SCART was the standard in Europe
@@bensloman5996 He said exactly as it is - it was available on the European brands but not on the Sony/Panasonic/Mitsubishi TVs (apart from a few in the late 80s when they were made in the UK.
Other brands to have scart were AWA, Orion Teac and some Sanyo. It wasn't on every TV like in Europe.
Commodore 1080 series monitors also had scart.
Awesome and impressive work Ryan
Just got this exact model of TV for free from Facebook (!!!)
Thanks so much for sharing this info. Would be a really fun weekend project.
Good luck with it! Let me know if you need help!
@@RyanUkAus Will do. Don't think I'll need any more info, though - you've documented the process really well here.
This is sooo sick man!
I feel you with the RGB, here in South America (Uruguay and Argentina) we are PAL region too and we never got Trinitron with Scart connector only PVM's and some european brands but they were not common at all.
It’s the same in Australia, some of the more upmarket European TV’s such as Philips would have SCART but very few Japanese brands do.
I’ve noticed most Trinitrons in Australia are dual voltage PAL & NTSC with lower specs (a lot of even the bigger sets are mono). I suspect Australia got some of the cheaper Asian market Trinitrons and not the European spec!
Wow. I've just started testing with an old JVC CRT that seems to have the same ghosting problem. I'm going to check if I can fix it with DVM in the JVC service mode.
Amazing video, awesome mod
Awesome. Thanks for your helpful vid!!!
I have a 2005 or 2006 awesome Samsung CRT, never seen a picture quite like it colours are so rich I had to turn them down as others have said they are oversaturated. Anyway the shell of tv at back has cutouts for component and I want to add component to it and/or just make the scart socket component compatble so I can use it as a monitor for PC. Have no idea if thats doable though.
You'll have to see if the video IC / Jungle chip in the TV can accept component, a lot of them can surprisingly but getting it to display might be tricky! You'll have to try and dig up a service manual for the TV or video IC!
😍😍😍 i love sony😘😘😘
how is the tv going 3 years later? I just did one to a 20" bg2 chassis, was even easier than this as the back panel where you can mount scart or bnc is still attached to the chassis when you take the rear cover off so no need for connectors or awkward wiring poking when you screw the back cover on.
I’m still using this as my main gaming CRT, no issues with it so I’m very happy!
This is honestly one of the to the point vids I've seen on RGB modding. Did you add resistors for Yb\Pb\R inputs? Like 75ohms to ground for RGB lines? I have a input for RGB on my set but I'm not sure if I have to terminate to ground
For this model TV the RGB inputs were already terminated and had decoupling capacitors in place, it probably couldn't have been much easier and ready to go! Some similar era Sony's and Philips will be the same.
@@RyanUkAus Omg you actually replied thank god! I was trying to do this mod today but I'm running into a weird issue. When I wire up CN001, for RGB and BLK, I see nothing on the screen. If I hit the blanking with 3.5 Volts the image becomes inverted. If I hit it with 5V it triggers some sort of protection circuit and the set turns off. In the service manual, the rated value for that section is 0V.
Did you split the BLK to get 2.5V or more or less? I know it's not the exact same thing but any help would be appreciated
I’ll have to check next time I’m around that TV (it’s in storage atm)
If I recall my BLK is wired directly to pin 16 on my SCART connector and gets it from the console
@@RyanUkAus I see. That appears to be fast switching. Well whenever you can do check it. Thanks 👍
Apologies for delay, I had to dig this TV out the shed. What I did might not apply for your TV, so it would be best to know what set you're trying to mod as some use Sony CXA chips rather than Philips TDA. Mine is done exactly as seen in the video, the RGBIN on the TDA chip is wired to SCART pin 16 with a resistor in series (I forget the value, I guess 220 to 1K ohms). Sync from the scart connector just goes straight to AV1 / 2 (whichever you select will correctly sync to the RGB signal.
The inverted image problem is weird, make sure your sync signal is grounded is all I can think of off the bat!
Wow this is amazing. Just got myself a Trinitron and was hoping for a scart option. Model is KN-XS29M33. Any tips you can give me to do this to mine?
Definitely have a browse for some schematics to help get you started, or open it up and see what the jungle IC is. You can usually find some data sheets on the video chips to see whether it’ll accept RGB and what it needs to make it happy!
So, I was wondering, all SCART cables have the same pinout no matter which console?
I got two Sony Trinitron and at least one I'd like to make that mod in it.
Yes, rgb, sync etc will all go to the same pins on the 21 Pin SCART end.
We didn't get Scart in Brazil or the USA either and I never understood why.
For the most part Australia is the same, there are a few European branded televisions here (Philips, Loewe, Grundig, etc) that do come with SCART but they’re far and few between!
When I lived in the UK some adverts for CRT era TV’s would mention SCART for RGB home micro computer connection, it might have been more popular in Europe due to the home computers used there - more BBC, Amstrad, Sinclair for instance with native RGB output!
I have a unrelated question. Have you tested any NTSC devices through composite? Because I used the 25 inch version of this and it didn't work in colour despite the manual saying it would?
I’ve had no issues with NTSC, in saying that I haven’t tried NTSC @ 50Hz or PAL @ 60Hz. If it uses the sync Hz to determine which colour carrier to use you might have issues (which I’ve had with other CRTs)
@@RyanUkAus It was 60hz
What's with that gold psx thou
Hey dude, I have a similar TV. The only question I have is around the Sync line. I see you are soldering it into the sync line on the back of the SCART, are you just splicing it back into the composite line for the AV channel your using?
That's right, if you go from SCART composite in to the composite in for AV1 then your SCART picture will work / sync on AV1 for example. You can use the other AV inputs too if you want it on AV2 or AV3.
@@RyanUkAus Thanks, now to figuire out how to make all this work with Mister as its RGB over RCA. I assume using the Y Luma\Sync into Composite for Sync would be the same?
Any sync signal into the composite line ***should*** work fine!
Hi Ryan, Thanks very much for this awesome video - I have same model Telly only the F1 using the TDA8366 with the RGB input also - Also have the unpopulated CN106 so should be fairly straight forward. Just wondering if you can supply a wiring diagram with the components used for both ends? I'm wanting to use this telly for my Old Amiga 1200. Cheers Tom From Perth!
Hey! I don’t have any wiring diagrams but it should be very straightforward if you have a SCART pinout. It’s essentially taking R G B and pin 16 (RGB BLK) from the SCART connector to the unpopulated connector in the TV. Sync comes from composite on the SCART connector, I wired my sync to the composite input AV 1 / 2 which means when I select that channel I get my image. Same for audio, it comes from the SCART connector to the audio inputs on AV 1 / 2. Composite ground and audio ground will need grounding too (can use ground from AV 1/2 ground). The A1200 should work just fine using a Amiga SCART lead, my A2000 worked just fine!
RyanUkAus thanks for that Ryan. I think I’ll be ok with most of that it’s more around the where the 5v and what/where resistor goes?
@@kodi-thefunnyfrenchie7693 You can put a 100 ohm resistor from the SCART connector (pin 16) to the blanking on the TV, it should work going to the unpopulated connector. It'll just knock the voltage down a little bit. It worked with a 100 ohm and a 1k ohm when I tried it! The Philips chip just needs the voltage to be a little reduced it seems.
Can you make a tutorial? Please
Great video. I have a Trinitron with the same BG-1S chassis. I looked in the schematics and it looks like the rgb “lines” form a single line to the blanking input on the jungle chip. Would this affect the mod?
The RGB lines should stay separate up until the video IC / jungle chip, usually you can see them next to some terminating resistors and capacitors. Blanking usually also stays separated right from the jungle chip to the input (sometimes on a unpopulated connector board)
RyanUkAus ok guess I will just give it a go and see. Also, what size resistor did you end up using on the 5v blanking input?
If I recall I got away using a 100ohm resistor, if that fails a 1k resistor should do fine!
If there's an unpopulated connector on the board why does your SCART port have 5 wires to somewhere other than the unpopulated connector? I have this exact model and I want to repeat the process. I'm pretty handy with a soldering iron and have a good enough grasp of things that I feel confident I can mod this and add the right resistor to drop the voltage (someone else in the comments suggested it's a 1k5 to drop to 2.6v from 5v on the blinking pin).
There isn’t an unpopulated SCART connector, but an unpopulated IC connector that accepts RGB. The additional wires are going to one of the rear AV ports for sync (off composite) and L+R audio. If you need any help feel free to ask over Discord!
How can I change color and sharpness settings on RGB input? I had 2 TVs that could do it but now my Sony Trinitron KV29B5E can't do it. :(
@ryanUKAus Hi Ryan, if you were to charge for this kind of work, what would be the price?
I’ve done this for a few people locally, I usually ask $50aud + parts but I’ve been given more every time as that’s apparently too cheap. Too busy to do it these days sadly but I’m always happy to help advise
good video, friend what happened with the playstation tv, you got the rgb cable you didn't upload the update, thanks
The TV is in storage behind a load of other CRTs but I’ll be getting it out again!
@@RyanUkAus I have been looking for one for years but without success since I live in Mexico and it is difficult to acquire such things, thanks for the reply and I hope to see you soon
please help, when I turn RGB switch on I got black screen only audio work , when I turn of RGB I got regular composite signel , i tried getting the voltage under 2.5V (2.3V for Blankin) ,But when i turn on the TV, the 2.3V blankin become 5V, i dont know why, (again im using 5V from scart consol, i dont know how to find 5V on the TV board)
Not sure why the blanking goes up to 5v, but likely is giving you the black screen (depending on the video IC the TV has)
Where can I purchase these parts?
The SCART connector I just found on eBay - you will want a connector with mounting holes. As for the wires and resistor I just got them from a local electronics store (which I worked for at the time!). If I recall you will want to use a 100 Ohm / 150 Ohm resistor for BLK to switch the TV to RGB mode.
why does it look like there is some kind of noise in the image¿¿ also some like "twinkling "pixels"
It was filmed using an iPhone 6, the twinkling is the magic sparkle of the CRT
Sony Trinitron RGB SCART Mod! KV-T29SF8 is black and white when i connect my xbox 360 no colors just black and white help......
Sounds like component sync (luma) output coming from the 360, try the switch on the video cables to change to SD is all I can think of
what size resistor did you use to drop the voltage at the blinking input?
I can’t quite recall, it was likely either 150 or 1000Ohms.
1k5 you need on 5v to drop to 2.6
hey ryan, thanks for your helpful video. a sony kv-2964mt popped out at my local area, i found the schematics online and i suspect there is an unpopulated connector for rgb there but i wasnt sure, would you confirm it for me? i could send you the schematics, let me know if youre up for it 😀
Hey, you’re welcome to send the schematic through discord to me, let me know where you think the unpopulated connector is!
I had a very quick look at a few schematics but they were low quality, it suggested the TV uses a CXA1213 chip which doesn’t handle RGB inputs by itself I believe. There could be circuitry on the TV that still does do it however!
Your PSX is more yellow than my toe nails.
it's gold lol... sorry to hear about your nails
@@RyanUkAus 🤣
And the “mod” tuto? ...
Really SCART wasn't common in Europe? In Poland SCART was most common and we were calling it "EURO ZŁĄCZE" somenthing like "European connector"
SCART was very common in Europe, and in the UK (which is where I am from) but in Australia where I am now it is not.
Thats the most yellowed ps1 ive ever seen.
The gold one?
@@RyanUkAus bruh
@@steliosemmanouilidis5050 the gold one?
@@RyanUkAus yes
@@steliosemmanouilidis5050 With those words, some would say that some heads are gonna roll - I just think you've got another thing comin'
can you please tell me the song from the first 3 minutes of the video
It was something I made myself using Music 2000 for the PS1 a while ago, I made a few backing tracks for videos that way but unfortunately lost them when my HD failed last year!
@@RyanUkAus jeeez nooo song was so fucking good