Hey HVAC Guy, not easy being cheesy. I like your podcast/social media, looking thru some comments/chats/reply??? I guess someof your customers,family,friends and competition are checking in on you. Again those air handler need an relief vent right outside of unit. Again relief will cancel out negative status pressure cause by air handler, which will the condenation line drain better. Mess with the best, die like the rest. Again you are no mikey pipes plumbing @ youtube , who trying to sell me on coffee cup and tee- shirt. Love you buddy, you be safe out there.
I've been wanting to put one on mine. I think I'm going to get the one that goes in the pan. Although you have me thinking now. I was just going to tie into the door switch, but all you did was put the break in on yellow. So the switch makes connection and the float breaks the connection. Good video
I would have broken r I’ve seen a ton of them that still spill over cause the blower keeps running when done to y . It’s also a good indicator that it’s tripped cause nothing works . But that’s just me . Good video
Curious. Which wire do you prefer to break? On my system, I had to sign papers to have no water safety switches. Good thing. Every few years, discharge tube freezes up. Water across garage floor is my alert. No damage or loss of heat if not home.
He separated the yellow from the stat and the yellow to the condenser. Then he attached a black wire to each. Under normal conditions when the stat calls for cooling it’ll send 24v to the contactor in the condenser but if the drain clogs it’ll break that signal with the float switch.
The safety will break the Y1 wire when water backs up. The float safety switch is in series on Y between the thermostat and air handler board. Another way of saying it is that the Y1 wire passes through the safety.
I will try to simplify what TX said. He took the wire nut off of yellow, separated the wires, connected to each one separately with the switch wires, doesn't matter which switch wire goes to which one because it makes the connection. When the pipe gets water in it the float comes up breaking that connection.
I don’t think I would want to own a house with a furnace/AC in the attic or a crawl space, or even on an upper floor. I would want it either in the basement (If available or ground floor.
When are we going to graduate past the long tight PVC 3/4 drain runs in attics? I mean with all the new technology we are smacked into a Johnstone with to learn about in a class, why can't better drainage technology be presented to take the place of long tight PVC runs? I know condensate pump but I'm talking even beyond that.
Great job Curtis thanks for the video
Nice work man 😊
Hey HVAC Guy, not easy being cheesy. I like your podcast/social media, looking thru some comments/chats/reply??? I guess someof your customers,family,friends and competition are checking in on you. Again those air handler need an relief vent right outside of unit. Again relief will cancel out negative status pressure cause by air handler, which will the condenation line drain better. Mess with the best, die like the rest. Again you are no mikey pipes plumbing @ youtube , who trying to sell me on coffee cup and tee- shirt. Love you buddy, you be safe out there.
Good job Curtis, lets hope this cures there ceiling getting wet 👍 Au
In line and on the aux pan is also good
Nice 😊
Thanks 😊
I've been wanting to put one on mine. I think I'm going to get the one that goes in the pan. Although you have me thinking now. I was just going to tie into the door switch, but all you did was put the break in on yellow. So the switch makes connection and the float breaks the connection. Good video
Nice work Curtis.
Thanks!
I would have broken r I’ve seen a ton of them that still spill over cause the blower keeps running when done to y . It’s also a good indicator that it’s tripped cause nothing works . But that’s just me . Good video
Why don’t you break on red instead of yellow? Breaking on red kills the thermostat so the customer knows that something is wrong
In Summer you would want to have some type of air flow through the house.
👍👍👍
Curious. Which wire do you prefer to break? On my system, I had to sign papers to have no water safety switches. Good thing. Every few years, discharge tube freezes up. Water across garage floor is my alert. No damage or loss of heat if not home.
My only concern would be how well the Safety Works until it Fails ?
has the unit been set level?
So one wire goes to Y1, but what about the other wire? Does it go R or the red wire
He separated the yellow from the stat and the yellow to the condenser. Then he attached a black wire to each. Under normal conditions when the stat calls for cooling it’ll send 24v to the contactor in the condenser but if the drain clogs it’ll break that signal with the float switch.
The safety will break the Y1 wire when water backs up.
The float safety switch is in series on Y between the thermostat and air handler board.
Another way of saying it is that the Y1 wire passes through the safety.
I will try to simplify what TX said. He took the wire nut off of yellow, separated the wires, connected to each one separately with the switch wires, doesn't matter which switch wire goes to which one because it makes the connection. When the pipe gets water in it the float comes up breaking that connection.
@@_ExTitus Exactly
@@Txpatriot762 thank you!
Curtis, did you vacuum up the water that was in the drain pan?
All I could
@
Good to hear this 🇺🇸👊🏼👊🏼✌🏼
I don’t think I would want to own a house with a furnace/AC in the attic or a crawl space, or even on an upper floor. I would want it either in the basement (If available or ground floor.
My question is, how come the drain on the pan didn't work?
Clogged
@HVACGUY : I guess that, but just confirming. Thanks.
that should fix it
When are we going to graduate past the long tight PVC 3/4 drain runs in attics?
I mean with all the new technology we are smacked into a Johnstone with to learn about in a class, why can't better drainage technology be presented to take the place of long tight PVC runs? I know condensate pump but I'm talking even beyond that.
I don’t like the looks of that black mold on the blower housing.
It's Suspect microbial growth without a test😂
They come horizontal left,by the looks of the inside ,it did not get switched correctly,consider other means,of a fix.
1st.