Practical mechanics is something else; very cool. I must be getting old; I immediately thought of holding a Honda cam in the loaded position of the slop so I could set the breaker points.
Staking is still used on precision bearing race surfaces, the only issue that I can foresee is the uneven surface hinders heat dissipation, but the timken conversion provides additional oil circulation to the bearing, which cools it and reduces the friction that causes the heat anyway, so run it.
I read comments till I was tired of reading . I was brought up around mechanics who would sit me on the fender of a truck and feed my curiosity about mechanisms working together. Commenters who bad mouthed Tatro for this are way out of line. Yes it was obvious the case and most likely the whole engine was junk, but if you'd pay a little more good tension you would have known this channel isn't for you. It's a learning video no different than a technical school disassembling and reassembling an engine, trans, whatever. There are people like me who enjoy this knowledge being shared, make a comment about your videos on shovels, and knuckels, I'd love to see them. When I buy an old Harley I know what I'm getting, and it will end up being better than what I'd expected because I know a used engine or trans built in the 50's - 70's has a great chance of being just like this one. if you had an old Packard with problems but you wanted to drive it on Sundays you might have to dimple a bearing seat, or knurle a valve guide but to you maybe this is unacceptable that's why some can do it and some cannot, your called parts changers, Wilber and Orville couldn't have used you. It's education so stop crying.
This was my first "Tatro" video. I like to come back and watch it from time to time. As a kid, I spent my summers working on a farm. I call this type of stuff "farm repair". On a farm, you often have older equipment and you need to get it up and running fast. My uncles taught me how to do stuff like this. A lot of that old equipment was still going after I was grown. You can do stuff like this and get away with it IF your skilled and know what your doing. If I had this engine, it would last awhile going for thousands of mile. Why ? Because you don't wring the crap out of an engine like this. You ride it like you have some sense. Most of my bikes have been junkers and I got just as many miles from my rebuilds as anyone who spent big money on theirs.
Hmmm tatro's mention of hate comments seems to indicate there is a devil's advocate type point to be made. Ig it's not really a "farm repair" it's the right way to do it. He didn't use old parts, he just keeps lots of new ones around (long enough to get corrosion) Maybe the Italian tune up perspective (some bikes seem to live the rev's) I too have had a "junker", put 10,000 on her in under a year when I was going to school. I do repairs and maintenance when I can afford to or when it's needed. I have some diy parts like the fork holder and have a specilty high flow exhaust hole installed by a highway guard rail. So obviously my streamlined master caretaking of her will far outlast yours. (The mod was free too, came with a cast and some pain meds, but the cast wouldn't fit under the shifter so I had to kick back at it with my heel so I could ride [obviously wasn't going to wait until I could walk to ride]) Let's see, I can't look at a comment and type so I'm trying to remember what might provoke debate............ Idk,ig the above is the best I've got .......... Shade tree 4 lyfe
Reread comment, I'm afraid I am too similar too you to find flaw with your logic (except for jokingly, as above) I guess we need some RUBers or ATGAT guys who say "you can't safely ride for any length of time for under 10k, my mechanic told me at my last routine oil change"
Tatro knows what he is doing. Everybody I know, runs to the dealer to get an oil change. I have used these videos to get my bike going. he stated in the beginning what he was doing. He is a hell of a mechanic, very explanatory, all the naysayers could learn something if they would listen more and flap their jaws less. How tight? Tight but not over tight.
Brian Lock, in a way i agree with you, old school mechs are the bizz, i know, i am one! You muat remember that this technknonlgy...techno, building of motorcycles did not have air guns and presses. I built my shovel using what i have in the shed, its the same techn... same as they build the early Nortons,, the bottom end is the same. He is a bit brutal my friend.
"I don't care what the customer says ...we are not doing that "... Wow, a proper engineer and a gentleman! Congratulations sir, I bet you sleep well at night. Best wishes, a shame more don't have your integrity.
I work on mostly Mercedes, no Harley experience at all. I see a few negative comments here about his process. Personally, I agree with the statement "I don't care what the customer says" as he invests some time, effort, and some spare used parts to assemble something that should last more than a few miles before complete self destruction. I can't assemble a grenade motor or transmission either. Yes, some new parts could have made this assembly better, but that's where the line is surely crossed between building a grenade and going against the customer's wishes. This man is playing in that grey area with his best intentions. Thanks for sharing this video! I picked up on a few great tips and tricks that will certainly make my next grey area job more reliable than the last. It's difficult when a technician is presented with the reassembly of failed parts, if that technician is one who has refined skills and knowledge in addition to a good code of ethics. I can't bring myself to do it and neither could this man. The proper warning has been mentioned a few times in the video and in the description too.
How many times have you seen or heard that someone purchased a used motorcycle or car only to have some major component fail,the seller always adds that this and that was rebuilt by such and such company and will give no future problem.If someone were to come to me and asks for a "patch up" so they can sell the machine to some unsuspecting poor bugger I will and have refused.When working for a dealership who has a used vehicle department pressure is put on the service department to do an excellent job for the least cost so at times tradesmen are required to do work that is not usually up to their normal standard.This is the positiom that this guy was put in.No matter how good your intentions and how good your work it only takes one failure for your name to be mud.Well done buddy,you did the best with what you had.
wow Tetro you're a stand-up guy buddy so many would just do what the customer asked but to see someone that still has the moral's to do the right thing is truly refreshing to say the least.
Hey Mr Tatro brother. Im strict on maching and straightness/ true ness, and I would trust that engine. I watched in detail and even paused the video from time to time and I would truct that engine to last as long as I kept it lubricated right and treated it right. You did great brother.
I've been riding shovelheads for about thirty years now. When I was looking for my first one back in '88 or so, I didn't know shit. I approached an old timer named Dudley, owner of Dudley's Basement on Long Island. A treasure trove of all things Harley Davidson and beyond. He hated people calling them "bikes". He would say "That is a Harley Davidson Motorcycle, not a bike!" He told me something then I've carried with me all of my life. I was looking for someone to come along with me and check out bikes with me. He was way too far along to waste his time doing that, although he went above and beyond for customers, as I later found out. He said "Be careful kid... There's a lot of people that know how to make a piece of shit look real good" Still stands true...
Great video showing how to fix these old machines with what is available. Of course there are people here who can't grasp the concept but how many times do you see a bike or car for sale, "as is"? What do you think that means? Yeah it runs, but you are going to need to do some work to the engine. This is what I want for it, take it or leave it or make me an offer. Not that big of a thing in the motorcycle world. Cut the guy some slack. Love the videos and the wry sense of humor.
Eric Mendoza WTF.!!!! I was just thinking that EXACT thing while watching (precomment reading), then read the first comment after the video. Laughed that I wasn’t the ONLY nutcase thinking this......
Not sure why people gave you a bad time. The customer wanted you to just throw it back together with the original parts. Seems to me you went above and beyond. 👍
Nice shop wish I had half the tools you got I take it that that spacer determines the preload on the timkin bearing an also the end play now I understand the bottom end better that other side is just running on rollers thanks for the good video
another viewer that actually watched what i was teaching in the video. it helps to see what happens when things are not done correctly so that you know what matters when it comes time to make decisions on what you are doing. tatro
Kids today can go online and look up the specs for anything but when we came up through the ranks we had to experiment with it all to find out how to get the most horses and the longest life out of our engine, a very fine line between. I have a 62 Pan that is 20 over with 160.000 miles and 38 different states but over the years it has seen alot of changes. from no generator to an Alternator and stroked to the max with S&S light weight fly wheels and S&S Carb., last year she got a 24 karat Gold metal flake on Black paint job.. She will outlive me I believe!!
all good things will outlive us. that is the difference from book smart and work smart. one you get a piece of paper on the wall and the other you have to buy toilet paper for. tatro
This reminds me of the day I stood to the right side of my dad's work bench and watched him for hours rebuilding things. He like all gas toys. British motorcycle was his thing. Nice work!!!
I've been a carpenter for a lot of years. I'm just starting to get into this thanks to you Tatro. I've seen A LOT of cobbled up crap in my carpentry days. I think I'm seeing the MC equivalent here to any of the semi-worst messes I've ever torn into. Makes me sure on my decision to swallow my pride on buying a genuine Harley Panhead motor, buy all new S&S components, and good Harley parts where I can find them, and start building my panhead. I plan on running this motor A LOT FOR A LONG TIME so I want it hold up. Who knows............ I really love watching these and know I would like doing this. Perhaps if I don't totally botch the Panhead (and maybe an original Ironhead for my daughter?), I can start rebuilding engines on the side?!? I think I'd really enjoy doing that. Thanks for the inspiration Tatro. And some great knowledge and tips to give me the confidence to start tearing in! Any thoughts on my idea of starting with new panhead S&S parts mixed with what good Harley parts I can find?
i am going to be getting to mine and freds panheads later this year i hope. i like to use as many harley parts as possible so that it is still a harley. half i rework to do what i want and pick the hotrod parts i want to get the power i want. see my 1942 wla stroker bike as an example. 2nd motor and bike i built that i finished just out of high school. build it the way you want and have fun with it. freds 1949 panhead we are going to do a mild stroker but all stock on the outside. my 1957 panhead, about the same but with more stroke and power. my 1947 panhead, more power yet with custom big bore cylinders and major head work. std heads? 97ci minimum and around 110ci on the high side. and for the big panhead, my softail 1957 panhead looking bike will be will over 130ci. might need some extra passing power. screw twin cams. tatro
5:15 Use of crescent wrench backwards puts excessive strain on the wrench's housing for its moving jaw, making it loose and hard to adjust to a tight grip on a nut, potentially rounding its corners, which will exert excessive leverage against the jaws of adjustable wrenches used on it in the future. A vicious cycle begins. Later on it becomes a frame of mind, and we're putting sub-standard parts into repair jobs. I'm still glad for the video. Lots of good info coming every moment!
yes that is all true and not very many people know this. sometimes you have to do things wrong for other reasons. clearance issues and being lazy are two of them. tatro
Tatro is using the adjustable wrench correctly, assuming it's being tightened every time it's placed over the nut :). The moment (leverage), applied by the nut to the movable jaw is LESS than that applied to the fixed jaw because the contact point between the nut and the movable jaw is CLOSER to the body of the wrench than the contact point between the nut and the fixed jaw. The orientation of an adjustable wrench only matters in high-torque situations and only for purposes of preventing breakage of the weaker movable jaw. It helps to insert the nut as deep into the jaws as possible for the same reason. Tightening the wrench every time it's placed over the hex is the only key to maintaining grip -- orientation of the wrench makes no difference.
Tattoo, My Brother you are an Expert Bike Mechanic who has Integrity by not putting the worn parts back in and letting the next guy, who could be any one of us watching this great 👍 video, thanks 🙏 for the help as I plan my next project of rebuilding my first Pan Head (As soon as I find a decent basket case as I did back in 70) and rebuild my next bike. I will be coming back and follow up with you! Plus, there are not enough words for putting the right mechanic, with the right knowledge, skills and abilities, plus has the tools to rebuild a bike! Nice 👍 work Brother, ride safe as everyday is a gift, ZZ
Probably the best example of down and dirty, junkyard hot rodding, "fuck it run it" I've ever seen. Right up there with Sloppy Mechanics and his 1000WHP+ junkyard turbo LS.
Great emergency repair! I learn from watching your videos, thanks for sharing with us. p.s. I would not be surprised if this motor is still running after 3 years.
Great video, I’ve made the same repairs, pick punch, loctite retaining fluid. On my flat track bike. Not correct, but got me back on track to race. Great channel!!!
sounds like it was fused on from corrosion and heat from like you said from lack of spacer heating up the crankshaft and bearing. nice work and spare parts inventory!
I've watched a lot of your videoS and read some of the dumbass comments of these so called perfectionists that do it a different way,which amounts to try to order parts which are overpriced and unavailable due to the age of the machine,i personally think you are a master builder as I am,after 45 years of fit and form,we know short cuts to compromise our customers and get them back on the road,listening to these twits make me laugh after doing restoration on high end muscle cars and bikes, you definitely know what your doing, in another video I suggested you write a book illustrating interchange and fit up to 2000 would be nice for guys that do not or will never own a new bike with inherent thin wall casting cheaped up crap, thanks for giving people a look into a Harley motor who never worked on any at all,thanks again TATRO
nothing like having confidence in your work.. i have never built a crap engine.. i certainly wouldnt take pride knowing it would only last 5000 miles...
There is no way I would ever fit pitted bearings and shagged out small end bearings like that back into a build...all that labour input for nothing....new bearings and a pair of wrist pin bushes wouldn't come to that much. The worn cases would probably last well enough....the rest is just false economy, if the customer didn't want to spend an extra £100 more I would have told him to take it else where.
the complete lower end was and is junk but at least now it will last for a few thousand miles before it craps out. this was a freebee job just so the new owner would not be completely screwed on the deal. you would be surprised how long crappy jobs like this will last. he was going to put it together with all the junk parts as it came apart. it will work now. tatro
Well I can tell you that for me, with nearly 40 years in the auto industry and a qualified technician who has owned many garages....if a customer ever walked in with a box of bits and wanted me to do such work....I would have told him no and to take it else where, such a repair is a waste of everyone's time.
whether i did my fix or not the motor was going back together. i just did what it takes to get a year or two out of the motor. if my good customer was not going to put it together for his customer i would have told him to stick it too. at least this way the new owner will get some use out of the bike. tatro
Unless of course that bearing fails while the new owner is mid corner then crashes and dies. Maybe not the most likely outcome but it definitely IS a possibility. Getting paid or not should not be reason enough to risk someone else's life. A "good" customer would never ask you to put it back together so he could screw someone else. This is just bad form magnified by bad judgment. This engine should not have been put back together without proper repair, period. "We'll put the BAD part on top." What part of that is ok to you? Tell yourself whatever you need to so you can sleep at night but to honest mechanics this is completely unacceptable to do. Now if it was on your PERSONAL bike and you didn't carry a passenger then whatever, you know the risk you are taking. But putting this together like this knowing it will be sold to someone without telling them is just wrong and should be illegal.
I get the bandaid race night repair suggestion but not the "don't do this but watch me do it to someone else." Is this a street bike or a race only bike? In my 24 plus years of working on cycles I've made some questionable repairs but I've never cobbled something together to sell or give to someone else without them knowing.
the complete motor is junk but being a harle it still will run and get you down the road. the good old days are still here and kicking. we can just about rebuild anything and because it was made to last, not toss it when crap happens. tatro
Yeah you're correct on both counts. I had a Sportster come in, customer complained of a slipping clutch and constant 10V at battery running. Sprocket shaft splines had sheared off and the primary drive just spins freely from sprocket shaft.
...Well.... my '72 Sporty Service Manual says draw up the sprocket/pinion shaft nuts to 250 foot Pounds.....minimum....they must be 'very tight'....... I am still amazed the amount of torque those few threads could hold.....
no way you can torque the mainshaft nuts that much on a sportster. as i recall it is more in the 125-150 area. i push them to around 175 and pull threads all the time. some will hit 200 but that is it on stock parts. s&s or jims can go higher but 250 is pushing it hard. 200-225 is more like it on those. crankpin nuts can go 250 but that is about it on stock nuts and flywheels. s&s parts can get you to 400 but they don't like much more then that with the thin sportster nuts. bigtwin nuts can go 500 because they are thicker, more threads. tatro
Ok Tatro. I like what you're doing and I always learn a thing or two. You get quite a bit of criticism form purists and the gallery--but my guess is most of them have never done anything like this. In my own shop, I'm building a '59 panhead with lesser resources I see in your shop. But I expect my hippie chopper ancestors got by with even less.
Great video mate,enjoyed it from start to finish. It is good to hear that integrity is alive and well. Have to say the bung it back together and pass onto somebody else attitude needs to be stamped on. You are good example of getting it done the right way.
When I read the comments here I know for certain there is a new generation of Riders out there now. The microwave generation. They really don't understand how to make do with what they got. They think they can just run out to Walmart and get a bottom end for a Shovelhead on sale with just a chump change at they have in their pocket. If it was their motor it would just sit in the corner of the garage for the next 20 years until someone else came along that could deal with it. Thanks for your videos.
Love your work, i've been in and around the engine game for over 40 years and have qualifications in the engine rebuild field. and yes some shit works, some shit don't, but you can only do what the customer wants and you have done more than that. keep up the good work. Cheers.
I enjoyed the video. We all want 100% when often it's just not obtainable due to time and the dollar. The video was a good example of making due which most need to get buy upon occasion. Thanks for sharing the video i know you didn't have to. I know you took some heat with comments but all was upfront in the video and just getting buy was the focus. It's not the shops responsibility who the harley is transferred too. Shop owner was fair and up front with current owner to this engines current state and needs. I need help with my '95 1200 XLH Sportster engine rebuild mostly crank assembly rods and bearings flywheel trued ECT. I think I can tackle the rest.
I didn't notice it right away but if this was a proper overhaul that bearing support hub, in the case, could have been replaced instead of pecker punched to tighten up the race. Just an observation.
one point is most times those bearing support hubs are finish ground once installed and in many cases IF you can find a supplier are a hard to find and the time involved to replace it your as well off to find a donor motor to snag the whole case off , i havent seen one of the replacement bearing hubs in decades. but like he said it was a jury rig fix .. to do it proper would have been some massive machining and mechanic time and depends where you are can be anywhere from a cheap shop of $40 an hour to upwards of $100 to have any machining done if any was required. but basically the guy that built it originally and never put spacer in needs a size 14 boot up his arse and his tools taken away
You've obviously played this game before. I love watching people work. Iron American Dream on TH-cam. Take a ride across the promised land. Ride a Harley.
I normally do not down anyones work but damnit man... WTH? I would love to know what "shop" you are associated with. I heard you say the customer wanted to chit it back together and sell it but you wouldn't do it... Why the hell didn't you just do it because you didn't do anything else right. Its great to see someone who will "help out a guy" Help out = Not do anything correctly so someone gets a f'ed up engine. I don't give a damn what the customer wants, it will be done right or it wont be done by me! I have integrity! You said thats how you fix ip a POS engine.... You made it a POS engine, if you did your job right it would be a great engine. You have shamed all of us in the profession.
you would be very surprised how long a junk motor like this will last. it was trash, now it is junk that will run. i have said why i have done this over and over so that's that. if you paid attention all clearances and alignments were look at and dealt with. not every job is all new parts, sometime you just have to get in the mud and make do. buy the way, this job cost zero. he got exactly what he paid for. i just made it easier for him to carried out the door in one piece. tatro
Tatro Machine only thing I'd question is punching case for the race used case not available or part of . I'm sure this is as good as average used bike motor would be .I've done that on rear car wheel bearings won't last forever lots of stress there.
if you loctited them too they would last alot longer than you think they would. these are still temporary fixes until things can be fixed correctly. tatro
jobs like this can work for a long time but I've found if u don't do it right it usually ends up costing ya anyway soo I mean good for experience ND quick fix but not to sell and rip someone off
these are learning videos. this video just shows you what happens when you put the motor together wrong and one way of doing a quick fix to get it running again. yes you better be saving your money up because this motor is going to need some work down the road. at least you will have some time to prepare for it. the big thing to learn here is what not to do and what to do if you have too. not everyone can just go out and buy another motor or fix it correctly right off the bat. tatro
Shame Shame Shame You should of give it back in a box.Now the seller is gonna say its had a bottom end rebuild by you guys. Your trashing your own reputation.
Warranty. 30 feet or 30 seconds and it is down hill out of the parking lot. Ha, the good old days. But, this engine will run for a long time and he used what he had that most likely can not be found anywhere else. Keep them on the road. Damn good mechanic and the owner will be happy with their ride.
Mike I know it's been 3 years but nobody else seems to have had to balls to tell you; he doesn't care about your bunched panties on thrown around bearings. They're corroded bearings going into a junk case for a crappy customer. Not to mention he's put enough of these together he could throw whatever he wants, and torque things to the exact ugga dugga That being said I hope you have a good day 😁 Good God!
This is whats wrong with buying used Harley Davidson's, caveat emptor = buyer beware. Jury rigging and quickie fixes does nothing but continue, to take away any faith in the Harley Davidson brand. Buy, band aid fix, flip for biggest buck - repeat.
This exists in very many trades, not only Motorcycles. The "rattle" will let the rider & his buddies know the engine is kind of tired. It's worse in the used Auto markets, & rental housing; Google "Zipper Cars" $$$$ ripoffs ..death traps..
Rain Coast just another half case and some bearings big deal just f****** fix it right I would tell the owner that Hurley I only fix it right that's all I do
I heard of a similar thing, though I think he covered the open cylinders inside. I have seen used car dealers power wash all the $#!+ off the engine, paint it, & roll back or replace the odometer out of a low KM wreck. I was hosed once (20 yrs ago last month) by a crooked dealer who used gun tape & roof tar to hide FRAME HOLES, & I was fooled, until 1 month after, when the cab mount (F-150 Supercab) fell off going over a bump. I was angry at being hosed by the guy (both fuel tanks were leaking, & the brakes were shot..drums were bell-mouthed, calipers seized, & I was under employed at the time. I .."forgave the guy" & swallowed the bills to fix the thing, as he was an acquaintance of an uncle, ( never again, no next times) I crawl in mud & snow to check MYSELF before I sign anything. Yes he sold it "Certified" not "AS IS" so his licence would have become toilet paper. He had a heart attack & died 7 yrs after. This one will curl your hair; A friend of my dad bought a b/n Olds Cutlass (last RWD edition), & took it regularly to "his guy" a "Joes Garage" type not Meinike or the Dealer. "Every 3 months" kind of thing. Oil change, etc etc. This went on several years, then he was going out of Province to visit relatives, & service time was due, so ..wherever he went, the Mechanic came out to the waiting room "upset".. WHY...??!! Why are you driving an unsafe, & horribly un-maintained Auto, may I ask?! ..speechless, the Tech told him his engine had only "goop" for Oil, & ALL Ball Joints were "shot" along with his tie-rod ends. for X-many YEARS buddy's "regular mechanic" was HOSING HIM... (he did not perform ANY work whatsoever it turned out, only put it on the hoist for a while, then let it down & charge buddy for the "work" & it might have cost him his life on the Trans=Canada Highway.. pop a ball joint going 100+.... My current vehicle is an ex City Of Toronto van. They may have drove the h out of it I'm not sure, but the sub frames are in immaculate cond from being washed ultra regularly. I looked at 12 dozen vans advertised as "LIKE NEW" & crawled under to find holes. Every last one except this one.
I don't profess to be a mechanic per say, but I am a video professional for the last 30+ years and while I do appreciate your candor while working on this engine, the camera work made it very difficult to watch. Ad AR least one poster pointed out most video cameras have a zoom function. I know that I am nitpicking here but hell just pull out a bit to show a slightly wider shot and mitigate the camera shake. BTW I also appreciate the fact that you tell people watching that this is not the correct way to do this repair necessarily so all those other "experts" should perhaps STFU? Perfect world repairs are nice when budget and time permit but at times you just do what you can. I have in the past taken my bike to "qualified" factory authorized repair depots only to discover that the workmanship was not much better than if I had done it myself. In most cases I do the repairs by the book and while it likely takes much longer at least I know it was done to specifications as prescribed by the OEM. Fuck, once again I get suckered into a long winded response replying to "experts" and whiners. Go ahead an reply, it'll matter just as much to me as this did to you...nada.
now that is what my videos are for. you can see how to do things yourself and i try to pass on why and how you fix a problem when it comes up. as for the videos. i can not video and work at one time so who ever has time to work the camera gets a chance at it. most have no training so you get what you get. i still think that is better then a tripod shot. volunteers are recome. tatro
Good for you to fix the problem correctly as your business reputation and integrity is more important, than some customer trying to peddle off an incorrectly put back together motor in a bike on some other unsuspecting, poor, sucker, in order to get rid of his problem.......
Tatro Machine: I believe it. Now, I know why the Romans had a saying: CAVEAT EMPTOR- "Let the Buyer Beware". Some persons have no personal integrity. Keep up the good work exposing guys like this and thanks for the video.
@@tomcata1467 here you are trolling here again. You hate Harley's . Anyone ever watched your video,s now's that. Remember all the Harley dealerships you have been kicked out of, for filming them then badmouthing Harley's once out of their business. I know tatro,s video is a couple of years old but had to post anyway just to let him know what a troll you really are. You shouldn't post on these videos,they are way over your head. Now,,, be a nice little troll and put the camera down.
I wonder if you could awnser a question for me? Besides the pinion shaft, what would it take to convert my 79 nosecone shovel to a generator bottom end?
your crank is fine. you just need a right side gen case and match it to your alternator shovel or evo case. go look at my playlist, 1957 80 97 harley panhead flst softail build. tatro
I wonder if you give a tip about a problem that is killing me. I have a custom chooper with a revetech 110 engine. It has been leaking lots of oil thru the crankshaft as in the pic. I replaced the oil seal but its still leaking. A mechanic told me id need to replace the crankshaft, however besides the labor cost, over 2k, there's no more parts for this engine in the market. I have my doubts on the need to replace the crank at all. Any ideas on what could be the source of the leaking. Thanks for helping a fellow biker
it sounds like a bad case to me. look for oil leaking around the mainbearing steel case insert. i have an extra motor in pieces if you need anything. tatro
I can relate. I bought a 75 xl with a "recently rebuilt" motor. Tried to fire it and it seized up. Started tear down and found waded up piston rings in timing cover from a piston that was broken in half. Rods had about an inch to inch and a half slop so digging deeper I found there were no connecting rod bearings even installed.
Cool vid Tatro. This brings back memories when my older bro used to pick up junk bikes and we would make them run for pennies. Some of these "experts" just dont grasp the 'make it work' mindset. Has anyone ever told you you sound like Nick Cage? :)
FWIW I think you did the right thing. The knock from the little end will warn anyone who knows what they are hearing that the engine has problems. But it won't just fail immediately.
You dont beat any metal bolts with a meatal hammer PERIOD! Thank you for the video dude but you wont catch me beating the hell out of a HARLEY,Honda or whatever!
Saw you Punch mark a Bearing Bore done this many time in my line of work just to get something up and running . I also clean the bore and the outer race of the bearing and put on some 609 Loctite ( cylindrical Loctite ) or as I call it Diameter in a bottle works Great
I wish I had your talent, I love learning about this. My wicked chopper has STD cases, it wont start only sputter ,suspect the cases full of oil, is it a good idea to take the cone off, to drain off some oil. You are a master builder, as well as good man .A fool that hides his folly is better than a wise man that hides his wisdom. Just trying to give some knowledge back. Thank you!
keep it simple, just take out the timing plug and lay the bike over on its left side. the oil will pour right out and then it should be able to start like normal. tatro
Why not simply give the customer 2 options: Have me do it right, or give him the motor back, in pieces? IF you didn't get paid for it, then it's better to not do the work and not get paid, than to rig it and not get paid. Is your reputation tarnished more by the bad-mouthing of a dishonest customer, or a a premature failure?
life is an unknown. i have seen more than one supposably proper rebuilt motor last less than a hundred miles. i would guess 5-10k but i have seen pure junk motors last over 5 years of hard riding. you never know. tatro
So you expect TATRO pay for new parts for the customer? TATRO tells you the customer wants him to put the motor back together so he can sell some other sucker. Tatro says hes not going to do that. This is why he uses parts he has obviously saved because they are ok and better than the damaged parts. So what type of wheelbarrow do yyou ride?
I don't know what all the fuss is about it's a Harley Ferguson tractor being repaired by a farmer, happens every day on farms all over the world......proper job!!!
These are great videos. Obviously, Mr. Tatro knows what he's doing. Sadly, the best mechanical work can be quickly undone by few bunouts or frequent over-revving of engines. Riding style has a lot to do ith how long something will last, even if properly repaired.
not if i build them. my motors are made for me and i do all of that and way more. build the motor for the application and it will take a ton of abuse. tatro
Tatro I have a technical question if you can help me? I have a 2009 Buell 1203 I want to use for an XL build. I know I’ll have to split the case to use the crank and rods, etc. I’ve read that the stroke on the Buell is longer than the XL? Do I need machine work for this to work? Will Sportster 1200 pistons be to heavy? If it needs that work I’ll need your address I’m gonna have you do the work.
then don't do it. it does work and it savers bad parts. especially ones that can not be easily replace like most od and racing harley parts. these tricks have been proven on all my race bikes for many years and i have the records and championships to prove it. tatro
It works and saves time and money! I learned that as a heavy mechanic 20+ yrs ago. It is a common, proven method. Man knows what he is doing and gets paid to do it just like me.
i have no control of what happens to this job after it leaves my door. i did what you see. from here they are on their own on how it goes back together. with any luck it never will. tatro
Either way I'm glad you didn't just put the shit back together and pretend you didn't see it that kind of behaviour doesn't help anyone. I'm going to be building an old iron head or shovel head chop soon any tips on what to look out for?
Tatro, sorry if this is a stupid question from a guy who’s not a mechanic (but I’ve having to learn all this stuff the hard way). You used the punch on the bearing landing and created all those dimples. Can you explain why? Nice video btw.
A modern day Burt Munro. I think I shall subscribe for that reason. Thanks for the videos, and the ass-in-ine comments from the "experts" that tell you its all wrong....
Last comment. You would never have had an issue taking off that bearing if you did it the right way and heated the bearing only just warm not red hot and it would have slid right off in your glove and not take the chance of marring the crank!
Is that speed wrench sae or metric??? :) I gotta commend yall for for taking a bit of time to put some vaslene on the shaft some poor sucker is going to get..
Nice job! I did see a trick that could have helped a little, on the puller remove the nuts and insert a couple of deep sockets so the nuts would be clear of puller gettin you closer to bottoming out?
it usually doesn't help for me. i have had things red hot and still no difference. when the parts don't want to come off they can be a real pain. tatro
Please, Gentlemen, a Timken bearing assembly is meant to be maintained as a set. In this case, two outer rings, one outer spacer, 2 inner rings (with rollers) and one inner spacer. changing components destroys the factory pre-set clearances inside the bearing. You have already seen what happens when you lose control of the clearances. Look for the details on the packet, or use only OEM Replacements, but change the whole thing, and do not interchange component s.. Greg (ex Timken Engineer)
this is what happens when you do not use the inner spacer ring. you can mix and match all day long as long as you set the clearances for the application. most new bearing assemblies i get are way off and would never work as packaged. just watch my videos on how far off they are. rarely are the correct. tatro
I like that the next person to own that engine was considered. There's a difference in good used parts and junk. Watching someone who actually knows what they are doing is refreshing. Used parts keep my stuff going. I wouldn't be afraid of this engine at all.
it amazes me how much abuse a harley will take and keep going. that is why i like them. they are piles of crap but are very hard to kill. once you kill all it takes is a couple of small repairs and they will take some more. tatro
those faulty bearings will last a very long time compared to the junk ones i took out. i even clearanced them so that they will work correctly. you should have watched more of the video. tatro
you notice that he had a drawer with more fucked up bearings, so he must do it on a regular basis.... wouldn't let him work on my lawnmover , must less my sled....
i have very good pullers and they have lasted very many years as is. if i didn't have that kingkong puller that bearing would not have ever come off in one piece without damaging the shaft or threads. how would you put 600 ft pounds of torque on my puller? with your fingers in gloves? tatro
Tatro Machine dont want to argue with you simply an observation a good long 1/2" ratchet and the puller clamped into a good vice is the best option and correct way to use those pullers if they are anything like my pullers there is a stamp on it somewhere that says not for use with impacts
i know you gotta do what you gotta do ive been guilty of doing the same thing at the cost of shortened life of my pullers just trying to help out the people that are trying to learn this stuff and want to know the correct procedures to using these tools
C D no actually they all say usa or germany on them thats why i take great care of them and dont use impacts because they are quite expensive and would hate to destroy them using them in a manner of which they were never designed
C D yes there have been situations where ive had to use my pullers in unorthodox manners where a vice or backup bar just isnt possible this is not one of those scenarios and the man is tearing up his tools simply because he is lazy and doesnt want to go through the effort to do it correctly kinda like that death trap of a motor he is working on to sell off to some unsuspecting victim i just hope it doesnt lock up on him at speed and cause an accident hack mechanic doing a hack job keeping it pieced together just long enough to offload it is what this video title should read
No, he doesn't have any illusion that it'll run a long time. It's a temporary fix and everyone Including him and the customer knows. It's more than the customer would pay for.
2nd comment. I wish I had some of these old beasts around; big engines are so much more fun than small ones. Drive behind a small-block Chevy, then get a big-block; it may not be efficient, and it may not make modern power, but it IS cool.
that puller that you have with the Round Disc and the legs is an original Chrysler drum puller for splined drums there's supposed to be five legs with it I could be wrong that puller may have been made by Nash
Practical mechanics is something else; very cool. I must be getting old; I immediately thought of holding a Honda cam in the loaded position of the slop so I could set the breaker points.
Staking is still used on precision bearing race surfaces, the only issue that I can foresee is the uneven surface hinders heat dissipation, but the timken conversion provides additional oil circulation to the bearing, which cools it and reduces the friction that causes the heat anyway, so run it.
I read comments till I was tired of reading . I was brought up around mechanics who would sit me on the fender of a truck and feed my curiosity about mechanisms working together. Commenters who bad mouthed Tatro for this are way out of line. Yes it was obvious the case and most likely the whole engine was junk, but if you'd pay a little more good tension you would have known this channel isn't for you. It's a learning video no different than a technical school disassembling and reassembling an engine, trans, whatever. There are people like me who enjoy this knowledge being shared, make a comment about your videos on shovels, and knuckels, I'd love to see them. When I buy an old Harley I know what I'm getting, and it will end up being better than what I'd expected because I know a used engine or trans built in the 50's - 70's has a great chance of being just like this one. if you had an old Packard with problems but you wanted to drive it on Sundays you might have to dimple a bearing seat, or knurle a valve guide but to you maybe this is unacceptable that's why some can do it and some cannot, your called parts changers, Wilber and Orville couldn't have used you. It's education so stop crying.
oh crap, now they are going to want a free hanky too.
tatro
This was my first "Tatro" video. I like to come back and watch it from time to time. As a kid, I spent my summers working on a farm. I call this type of stuff "farm repair". On a farm, you often have older equipment and you need to get it up and running fast. My uncles taught me how to do stuff like this. A lot of that old equipment was still going after I was grown. You can do stuff like this and get away with it IF your skilled and know what your doing. If I had this engine, it would last awhile going for thousands of mile. Why ? Because you don't wring the crap out of an engine like this. You ride it like you have some sense. Most of my bikes have been junkers and I got just as many miles from my rebuilds as anyone who spent big money on theirs.
look out, you are going to get the hate comments now.
tatro
I love every single thing you just wrote, sportsterini.
Hmmm tatro's mention of hate comments seems to indicate there is a devil's advocate type point to be made.
Ig it's not really a "farm repair" it's the right way to do it. He didn't use old parts, he just keeps lots of new ones around (long enough to get corrosion)
Maybe the Italian tune up perspective (some bikes seem to live the rev's)
I too have had a "junker", put 10,000 on her in under a year when I was going to school. I do repairs and maintenance when I can afford to or when it's needed. I have some diy parts like the fork holder and have a specilty high flow exhaust hole installed by a highway guard rail. So obviously my streamlined master caretaking of her will far outlast yours. (The mod was free too, came with a cast and some pain meds, but the cast wouldn't fit under the shifter so I had to kick back at it with my heel so I could ride [obviously wasn't going to wait until I could walk to ride])
Let's see, I can't look at a comment and type so I'm trying to remember what might provoke debate............ Idk,ig the above is the best I've got .......... Shade tree 4 lyfe
Reread comment, I'm afraid I am too similar too you to find flaw with your logic (except for jokingly, as above) I guess we need some RUBers or ATGAT guys who say "you can't safely ride for any length of time for under 10k, my mechanic told me at my last routine oil change"
Tatro knows what he is doing. Everybody I know, runs to the dealer to get an oil change. I have used these videos to get my bike going. he stated in the beginning what he was doing. He is a hell of a mechanic, very explanatory, all the naysayers could learn something if they would listen more and flap their jaws less. How tight? Tight but not over tight.
Brian Lock, in a way i agree with you, old school mechs are the bizz, i know, i am one! You muat remember that this technknonlgy...techno, building of motorcycles did not have air guns and presses. I built my shovel using what i have in the shed, its the same techn... same as they build the early Nortons,, the bottom end is the same. He is a bit brutal my friend.
After 2 year posting he did not replied back to you thank you that guy is a terrible mechanic
@@efrainguzman6143 how is her a terrible mechanic for not responding to a comment? Lol
"I don't care what the customer says ...we are not doing that "... Wow, a proper engineer and a gentleman! Congratulations sir, I bet you sleep well at night. Best wishes, a shame more don't have your integrity.
I work on mostly Mercedes, no Harley experience at all. I see a few negative comments here about his process. Personally, I agree with the statement "I don't care what the customer says" as he invests some time, effort, and some spare used parts to assemble something that should last more than a few miles before complete self destruction. I can't assemble a grenade motor or transmission either. Yes, some new parts could have made this assembly better, but that's where the line is surely crossed between building a grenade and going against the customer's wishes. This man is playing in that grey area with his best intentions.
Thanks for sharing this video! I picked up on a few great tips and tricks that will certainly make my next grey area job more reliable than the last.
It's difficult when a technician is presented with the reassembly of failed parts, if that technician is one who has refined skills and knowledge in addition to a good code of ethics. I can't bring myself to do it and neither could this man. The proper warning has been mentioned a few times in the video and in the description too.
How many times have you seen or heard that someone purchased a used motorcycle or car only to have some major component fail,the seller always adds that this and that was rebuilt by such and such company and will give no future problem.If someone were to come to me and asks for a "patch up" so they can sell the machine to some unsuspecting poor bugger I will and have refused.When working for a dealership who has a used vehicle department pressure is put on the service department to do an excellent job for the least cost so at times tradesmen are required to do work that is not usually up to their normal standard.This is the positiom that this guy was put in.No matter how good your intentions and how good your work it only takes one failure for your name to be mud.Well done buddy,you did the best with what you had.
wow Tetro you're a stand-up guy buddy so many would just do what the customer asked but to see someone that still has the moral's to do the right thing is truly refreshing to say the least.
i do what i can.
tatro
Hey Mr Tatro brother. Im strict on maching and straightness/ true ness, and I would trust that engine. I watched in detail and even paused the video from time to time and I would truct that engine to last as long as I kept it lubricated right and treated it right. You did great brother.
Mr. Crescent was not a Mexican
It’s a CowBoy speed wrench 🤣
I've been riding shovelheads for about thirty years now. When I was looking for my first one back in '88 or so, I didn't know shit. I approached an old timer named Dudley, owner of Dudley's Basement on Long Island. A treasure trove of all things Harley Davidson and beyond. He hated people calling them "bikes". He would say "That is a Harley Davidson Motorcycle, not a bike!"
He told me something then I've carried with me all of my life. I was looking for someone to come along with me and check out bikes with me. He was way too far along to waste his time doing that, although he went above and beyond for customers, as I later found out.
He said "Be careful kid... There's a lot of people that know how to make a piece of shit look real good"
Still stands true...
@Openg30. Is Dudley's still around?
This is why I do ALL my own work !!!
good to hear, that is how it should be. no one cares about your stuff more than you do.
tatro
instablaster...
Boy would I love to have my Shovel back. What a bike
Great video showing how to fix these old machines with what is available. Of course there are people here who can't grasp the concept but how many times do you see a bike or car for sale, "as is"? What do you think that means? Yeah it runs, but you are going to need to do some work to the engine. This is what I want for it, take it or leave it or make me an offer. Not that big of a thing in the motorcycle world. Cut the guy some slack.
Love the videos and the wry sense of humor.
That's what makes you a gentleman and a scholar handsome man
I don't know why it is so satisfying to see that string of lube lay perfectly between race and cage.
Eric Mendoza WTF.!!!! I was just thinking that EXACT thing while watching (precomment reading), then read the first comment after the video. Laughed that I wasn’t the ONLY nutcase thinking this......
Not sure why people gave you a bad time. The customer wanted you to just throw it back together with the original parts. Seems to me you went above and beyond. 👍
Nice shop wish I had half the tools you got I take it that that spacer determines the preload on the timkin bearing an also the end play now I understand the bottom end better that other side is just running on rollers thanks for the good video
another viewer that actually watched what i was teaching in the video. it helps to see what happens when things are not done correctly so that you know what matters when it comes time to make decisions on what you are doing.
tatro
Kids today can go online and look up the specs for anything but when we came up through the ranks we had to experiment with it all to find out how to get the most horses and the longest life out of our engine, a very fine line between. I have a 62 Pan that is 20 over with 160.000 miles and 38 different states but over the years it has seen alot of changes. from no generator to an Alternator and stroked to the max with S&S light weight fly wheels and S&S Carb., last year she got a 24 karat Gold metal flake on Black paint job.. She will outlive me I believe!!
all good things will outlive us. that is the difference from book smart and work smart. one you get a piece of paper on the wall and the other you have to buy toilet paper for.
tatro
This reminds me of the day I stood to the right side of my dad's work bench and watched him for hours rebuilding things. He like all gas toys. British motorcycle was his thing. Nice work!!!
Thats a real bike mechanic their. All you pretty boys hop back on your store bought sissy bikes and call the dealer when ya need greased.
I've been a carpenter for a lot of years. I'm just starting to get into this thanks to you Tatro. I've seen A LOT of cobbled up crap in my carpentry days. I think I'm seeing the MC equivalent here to any of the semi-worst messes I've ever torn into.
Makes me sure on my decision to swallow my pride on buying a genuine Harley Panhead motor, buy all new S&S components, and good Harley parts where I can find them, and start building my panhead. I plan on running this motor A LOT FOR A LONG TIME so I want it hold up. Who knows............ I really love watching these and know I would like doing this. Perhaps if I don't totally botch the Panhead (and maybe an original Ironhead for my daughter?), I can start rebuilding engines on the side?!? I think I'd really enjoy doing that. Thanks for the inspiration Tatro. And some great knowledge and tips to give me the confidence to start tearing in!
Any thoughts on my idea of starting with new panhead S&S parts mixed with what good Harley parts I can find?
i am going to be getting to mine and freds panheads later this year i hope. i like to use as many harley parts as possible so that it is still a harley. half i rework to do what i want and pick the hotrod parts i want to get the power i want. see my 1942 wla stroker bike as an example. 2nd motor and bike i built that i finished just out of high school. build it the way you want and have fun with it.
freds 1949 panhead we are going to do a mild stroker but all stock on the outside. my 1957 panhead, about the same but with more stroke and power. my 1947 panhead, more power yet with custom big bore cylinders and major head work. std heads? 97ci minimum and around 110ci on the high side. and for the big panhead, my softail 1957 panhead looking bike will be will over 130ci. might need some extra passing power. screw twin cams.
tatro
5:15 Use of crescent wrench backwards puts excessive strain on the wrench's housing for its moving jaw, making it loose and hard to adjust to a tight grip on a nut, potentially rounding its corners, which will exert excessive leverage against the jaws of adjustable wrenches used on it in the future. A vicious cycle begins. Later on it becomes a frame of mind, and we're putting sub-standard parts into repair jobs.
I'm still glad for the video. Lots of good info coming every moment!
yes that is all true and not very many people know this. sometimes you have to do things wrong for other reasons. clearance issues and being lazy are two of them.
tatro
@@TatroMachine Hey, Thats a MEXICAN SPEED WRENCH!
Tatro is using the adjustable wrench correctly, assuming it's being tightened every time it's placed over the nut :). The moment (leverage), applied by the nut to the movable jaw is LESS than that applied to the fixed jaw because the contact point between the nut and the movable jaw is CLOSER to the body of the wrench than the contact point between the nut and the fixed jaw. The orientation of an adjustable wrench only matters in high-torque situations and only for purposes of preventing breakage of the weaker movable jaw. It helps to insert the nut as deep into the jaws as possible for the same reason. Tightening the wrench every time it's placed over the hex is the only key to maintaining grip -- orientation of the wrench makes no difference.
Tattoo, My Brother you are an Expert Bike Mechanic who has Integrity by not putting the worn parts back in and letting the next guy, who could be any one of us watching this great 👍 video, thanks 🙏 for the help as I plan my next project of rebuilding my first Pan Head (As soon as I find a decent basket case as I did back in 70) and rebuild my next bike. I will be coming back and follow up with you!
Plus, there are not enough words for putting the right mechanic, with the right knowledge, skills and abilities, plus has the tools to rebuild a bike!
Nice 👍 work Brother, ride safe as everyday is a gift, ZZ
Probably the best example of down and dirty, junkyard hot rodding, "fuck it run it" I've ever seen. Right up there with Sloppy Mechanics and his 1000WHP+ junkyard turbo LS.
Great emergency repair! I learn from watching your videos, thanks for sharing with us.
p.s. I would not be surprised if this motor is still running after 3 years.
Great video,
I’ve made the same repairs, pick punch, loctite retaining fluid. On my flat track bike.
Not correct, but got me back on track to race.
Great channel!!!
doesn't just piss off everyone else.
tatro
The guy who buys this should go back there and break his fingers so he can't pick up a wrench
I love these kind of guys, they keep me in business.
sounds like it was fused on from corrosion and heat from like you said from lack of spacer heating up the crankshaft and bearing. nice work and spare parts inventory!
sir i could watch you all day you seem very professional
Respect for what you do for the community.
I've watched a lot of your videoS and read some of the dumbass comments of these so called perfectionists that do it a different way,which amounts to try to order parts which are overpriced and unavailable due to the age of the machine,i personally think you are a master builder as I am,after 45 years of fit and form,we know short cuts to compromise our customers and get them back on the road,listening to these twits make me laugh after doing restoration on high end muscle cars and bikes, you definitely know what your doing, in another video I suggested you write a book illustrating interchange and fit up to 2000 would be nice for guys that do not or will never own a new bike with inherent thin wall casting cheaped up crap, thanks for giving people a look into a Harley motor who never worked on any at all,thanks again TATRO
nothing like having confidence in your work.. i have never built a crap engine.. i certainly wouldnt take pride knowing it would only last 5000 miles...
There is no way I would ever fit pitted bearings and shagged out small end bearings like that back into a build...all that labour input for nothing....new bearings and a pair of wrist pin bushes wouldn't come to that much. The worn cases would probably last well enough....the rest is just false economy, if the customer didn't want to spend an extra £100 more I would have told him to take it else where.
the complete lower end was and is junk but at least now it will last for a few thousand miles before it craps out. this was a freebee job just so the new owner would not be completely screwed on the deal. you would be surprised how long crappy jobs like this will last. he was going to put it together with all the junk parts as it came apart. it will work now.
tatro
Well I can tell you that for me, with nearly 40 years in the auto industry and a qualified technician who has owned many garages....if a customer ever walked in with a box of bits and wanted me to do such work....I would have told him no and to take it else where, such a repair is a waste of everyone's time.
whether i did my fix or not the motor was going back together. i just did what it takes to get a year or two out of the motor. if my good customer was not going to put it together for his customer i would have told him to stick it too. at least this way the new owner will get some use out of the bike.
tatro
Unless of course that bearing fails while the new owner is mid corner then crashes and dies. Maybe not the most likely outcome but it definitely IS a possibility. Getting paid or not should not be reason enough to risk someone else's life. A "good" customer would never ask you to put it back together so he could screw someone else. This is just bad form magnified by bad judgment. This engine should not have been put back together without proper repair, period. "We'll put the BAD part on top." What part of that is ok to you? Tell yourself whatever you need to so you can sleep at night but to honest mechanics this is completely unacceptable to do. Now if it was on your PERSONAL bike and you didn't carry a passenger then whatever, you know the risk you are taking. But putting this together like this knowing it will be sold to someone without telling them is just wrong and should be illegal.
I get the bandaid race night repair suggestion but not the "don't do this but watch me do it to someone else." Is this a street bike or a race only bike? In my 24 plus years of working on cycles I've made some questionable repairs but I've never cobbled something together to sell or give to someone else without them knowing.
That sprocket shaft looks like it's seen better days as well. At least you can replace just the shaft compared to the new junk.
the complete motor is junk but being a harle it still will run and get you down the road. the good old days are still here and kicking. we can just about rebuild anything and because it was made to last, not toss it when crap happens.
tatro
Yeah you're correct on both counts. I had a Sportster come in, customer complained of a slipping clutch and constant 10V at battery running. Sprocket shaft splines had sheared off and the primary drive just spins freely from sprocket shaft.
its a common problem. that is why i tighten my nuts down way more then harley specs.
tatro
...Well.... my '72 Sporty Service Manual says draw up the sprocket/pinion shaft nuts to 250 foot Pounds.....minimum....they must be 'very tight'....... I am still amazed the amount of torque those few threads could hold.....
no way you can torque the mainshaft nuts that much on a sportster. as i recall it is more in the 125-150 area. i push them to around 175 and pull threads all the time. some will hit 200 but that is it on stock parts. s&s or jims can go higher but 250 is pushing it hard. 200-225 is more like it on those. crankpin nuts can go 250 but that is about it on stock nuts and flywheels. s&s parts can get you to 400 but they don't like much more then that with the thin sportster nuts. bigtwin nuts can go 500 because they are thicker, more threads.
tatro
All those armchair mechanics in the comments , and none of them have a video where they work on anything at all.
Ok Tatro. I like what you're doing and I always learn a thing or two. You get quite a bit of criticism form purists and the gallery--but my guess is most of them have never done anything like this. In my own shop, I'm building a '59 panhead with lesser resources I see in your shop. But I expect my hippie chopper ancestors got by with even less.
Great video mate,enjoyed it from start to finish. It is good to hear that integrity is alive and well. Have to say the bung it back together and pass onto somebody else attitude needs to be stamped on. You are good example of getting it done the right way.
not right, but done.
tatro
When I read the comments here I know for certain there is a new generation of Riders out there now. The microwave generation. They really don't understand how to make do with what they got. They think they can just run out to Walmart and get a bottom end for a Shovelhead on sale with just a chump change at they have in their pocket. If it was their motor it would just sit in the corner of the garage for the next 20 years until someone else came along that could deal with it. Thanks for your videos.
"Microwave generation": that is a great description, very apt!
There not mechanics they are parts replacers
Love your work, i've been in and around the engine game for over 40 years and have qualifications in the engine rebuild field. and yes some shit works, some shit don't, but you can only do what the customer wants and you have done more than that.
keep up the good work.
Cheers.
I enjoyed the video. We all want 100% when often it's just not obtainable due to time and the dollar. The video was a good example of making due which most need to get buy upon occasion. Thanks for sharing the video i know you didn't have to. I know you took some heat with comments but all was upfront in the video and just getting buy was the focus. It's not the shops responsibility who the harley is transferred too. Shop owner was fair and up front with current owner to this engines current state and needs. I need help with my '95 1200 XLH Sportster engine rebuild mostly crank assembly rods and bearings flywheel trued ECT. I think I can tackle the rest.
at least someone gets the point. do what you can do and understand what you have to send out so that you don't get screwed.
tatro
I didn't notice it right away but if this was a proper overhaul that bearing support hub, in the case, could have been replaced instead of pecker punched to tighten up the race. Just an observation.
only if you were std and wanted to fix cases again. oh, they had to do it for free like i did.
tatro
one point is most times those bearing support hubs are finish ground once installed and in many cases IF you can find a supplier are a hard to find and the time involved to replace it your as well off to find a donor motor to snag the whole case off , i havent seen one of the replacement bearing hubs in decades. but like he said it was a jury rig fix .. to do it proper would have been some massive machining and mechanic time and depends where you are can be anywhere from a cheap shop of $40 an hour to upwards of $100 to have any machining done if any was required. but basically the guy that built it originally and never put spacer in needs a size 14 boot up his arse and his tools taken away
don't let that guy on the camera again. I'm seasick from watching that video
You and me both. Damn.
Bill Carp d
Zoom too close
You've obviously played this game before.
I love watching people work.
Iron American Dream on TH-cam.
Take a ride across the promised land.
Ride a Harley.
I normally do not down anyones work but damnit man... WTH? I would love to know what "shop" you are associated with.
I heard you say the customer wanted to chit it back together and sell it but you wouldn't do it... Why the hell didn't you just do it because you didn't do anything else right. Its great to see someone who will "help out a guy" Help out = Not do anything correctly so someone gets a f'ed up engine. I don't give a damn what the customer wants, it will be done right or it wont be done by me! I have integrity!
You said thats how you fix ip a POS engine.... You made it a POS engine, if you did your job right it would be a great engine. You have shamed all of us in the profession.
you would be very surprised how long a junk motor like this will last. it was trash, now it is junk that will run. i have said why i have done this over and over so that's that. if you paid attention all clearances and alignments were look at and dealt with. not every job is all new parts, sometime you just have to get in the mud and make do. buy the way, this job cost zero. he got exactly what he paid for. i just made it easier for him to carried out the door in one piece.
tatro
Tatro Machine only thing I'd question is punching case for the race used case not available or part of . I'm sure this is as good as average used bike motor would be .I've done that on rear car wheel bearings won't last forever lots of stress there.
Car. Crashs
Maj. Moto ..getterdunn!!!
if you loctited them too they would last alot longer than you think they would. these are still temporary fixes until things can be fixed correctly.
tatro
This video just showed up this morning. I liked this video. You got to do what needs to be done. Thanks!
Thanks for the video. I picked up a few things while watching.
jobs like this can work for a long time but I've found if u don't do it right it usually ends up costing ya anyway soo I mean good for experience ND quick fix but not to sell and rip someone off
these are learning videos. this video just shows you what happens when you put the motor together wrong and one way of doing a quick fix to get it running again. yes you better be saving your money up because this motor is going to need some work down the road. at least you will have some time to prepare for it. the big thing to learn here is what not to do and what to do if you have too. not everyone can just go out and buy another motor or fix it correctly right off the bat.
tatro
@@TatroMachine reading this comment, we come from the same people. People might not get it, but it doesn't matter. Those who need to will.
The making of a LEMON.
Cracked wristpin on top of the other probs and you still keep assembling. WOW
Shame Shame Shame You should of give it back in a box.Now the seller is gonna say its had a bottom end rebuild by you guys. Your trashing your own reputation.
he was going to do that anyway because i rebuilt the topend before. at least now it will last for awhile.
tatro
@@TatroMachine Smart man tatro...
Warranty. 30 feet or 30 seconds and it is down hill out of the parking lot. Ha, the good old days. But, this engine will run for a long time and he used what he had that most likely can not be found anywhere else. Keep them on the road. Damn good mechanic and the owner will be happy with their ride.
all true except for the good old days. every day is a good old day.
tatro
Whats with throwing everything around? Especially bearings! And no torque wrench only an impact? Good god!
Mike I know it's been 3 years but nobody else seems to have had to balls to tell you; he doesn't care about your bunched panties on thrown around bearings. They're corroded bearings going into a junk case for a crappy customer.
Not to mention he's put enough of these together he could throw whatever he wants, and torque things to the exact ugga dugga
That being said I hope you have a good day 😁
Good God!
He's an ass clown that does it for the camera.
He's burning off disgust with his life. He probably needs a drink.
This is whats wrong with buying used Harley Davidson's, caveat emptor = buyer beware. Jury rigging and quickie fixes does nothing but continue, to take away any faith in the Harley Davidson brand. Buy, band aid fix, flip for biggest buck - repeat.
that is why i always say the last thing worked on was the last thing screwed up when i buy something.
tatro
This exists in very many trades, not only Motorcycles.
The "rattle" will let the rider & his buddies know the engine is kind of tired.
It's worse in the used Auto markets, & rental housing;
Google "Zipper Cars" $$$$ ripoffs ..death traps..
Rain Coast just another half case and some bearings big deal just f****** fix it right I would tell the owner that Hurley I only fix it right that's all I do
I heard of a similar thing, though I think he covered the open cylinders inside. I have seen used car dealers power wash all the $#!+ off the engine, paint it, & roll back or replace the odometer out of a low KM wreck.
I was hosed once (20 yrs ago last month) by a crooked dealer who used gun tape & roof tar to hide FRAME HOLES, & I was fooled, until 1 month after, when the cab mount (F-150 Supercab) fell off going over a bump. I was angry at being hosed by the guy (both fuel tanks were leaking, & the brakes were shot..drums were bell-mouthed, calipers seized, & I was under employed at the time. I .."forgave the guy" & swallowed the bills to fix the thing, as he was an acquaintance of an uncle, ( never again, no next times) I crawl in mud & snow to check MYSELF before I sign anything. Yes he sold it "Certified" not "AS IS" so his licence would have become toilet paper. He had a heart attack & died 7 yrs after.
This one will curl your hair;
A friend of my dad bought a b/n Olds Cutlass (last RWD edition), & took it regularly to "his guy" a "Joes Garage" type not Meinike or the Dealer. "Every 3 months" kind of thing. Oil change, etc etc.
This went on several years, then he was going out of Province to visit relatives, & service time was due, so ..wherever he went, the Mechanic came out to the waiting room "upset"..
WHY...??!!
Why are you driving an unsafe, & horribly un-maintained Auto, may I ask?!
..speechless, the Tech told him his engine had only "goop" for Oil, & ALL Ball Joints were "shot" along with his tie-rod ends.
for X-many YEARS buddy's "regular mechanic" was HOSING HIM... (he did not perform ANY work whatsoever it turned out, only put it on the hoist for a while, then let it down & charge buddy for the "work"
& it might have cost him his life on the Trans=Canada Highway.. pop a ball joint going 100+....
My current vehicle is an ex City Of Toronto van. They may have drove the h out of it I'm not sure, but the sub frames are in immaculate cond from being washed ultra regularly.
I looked at 12 dozen vans advertised as "LIKE NEW" & crawled under to find holes. Every last one except this one.
Last used bike I bought was a mess.
lucky he caught it in time. Good job, Tatro
I don't profess to be a mechanic per say, but I am a video professional for the last 30+ years and while I do appreciate your candor while working on this engine, the camera work made it very difficult to watch. Ad AR least one poster pointed out most video cameras have a zoom function. I know that I am nitpicking here but hell just pull out a bit to show a slightly wider shot and mitigate the camera shake. BTW I also appreciate the fact that you tell people watching that this is not the correct way to do this repair necessarily so all those other "experts" should perhaps STFU? Perfect world repairs are nice when budget and time permit but at times you just do what you can. I have in the past taken my bike to "qualified" factory authorized repair depots only to discover that the workmanship was not much better than if I had done it myself. In most cases I do the repairs by the book and while it likely takes much longer at least I know it was done to specifications as prescribed by the OEM. Fuck, once again I get suckered into a long winded response replying to "experts" and whiners. Go ahead an reply, it'll matter just as much to me as this did to you...nada.
now that is what my videos are for. you can see how to do things yourself and i try to pass on why and how you fix a problem when it comes up. as for the videos. i can not video and work at one time so who ever has time to work the camera gets a chance at it. most have no training so you get what you get. i still think that is better then a tripod shot. volunteers are recome.
tatro
We in South Africa call the practice of prick punching a worn bearing landing , "Americanising" . After 40 years in the trade I now see why LOL
good job buddy i call that fix free99 lol i have a 78 fl with many miles on it and do what ever it takes to keep him runnin✔.
now you are in trouble too. here comes the haters.
tatro
I'm really looking forward to not buying that Harley!
Good for you to fix the problem correctly as your business reputation and integrity is more important, than some customer trying to peddle off an incorrectly put back together motor in a bike on some other unsuspecting, poor, sucker, in order to get rid of his problem.......
and the dumbass missed the whole point of the video as i stated in it. if i cared about what people think i would not make any videos.
tatro
Tatro Machine: I believe it. Now, I know why the Romans had a saying: CAVEAT EMPTOR- "Let the Buyer Beware". Some persons have no personal integrity. Keep up the good work exposing guys like this and thanks for the video.
@@tomcata1467 here you are trolling here again. You hate Harley's . Anyone ever watched your video,s now's that. Remember all the Harley dealerships you have been kicked out of, for filming them then badmouthing Harley's once out of their business. I know tatro,s video is a couple of years old but had to post anyway just to let him know what a troll you really are. You shouldn't post on these videos,they are way over your head. Now,,, be a nice little troll and put the camera down.
I wonder if you could awnser a question for me? Besides the pinion shaft, what would it take to convert my 79 nosecone shovel to a generator bottom end?
your crank is fine. you just need a right side gen case and match it to your alternator shovel or evo case. go look at my playlist, 1957 80 97 harley panhead flst softail build.
tatro
Tatro Machine ... thanks for your time and info, much appreciated
I wonder if you give a tip about a problem that is killing me. I have a custom chooper with a revetech 110 engine. It has been leaking lots of oil thru the crankshaft as in the pic. I replaced the oil seal but its still leaking. A mechanic told me id need to replace the crankshaft, however besides the labor cost, over 2k, there's no more parts for this engine in the market. I have my doubts on the need to replace the crank at all. Any ideas on what could be the source of the leaking. Thanks for helping a fellow biker
it sounds like a bad case to me. look for oil leaking around the mainbearing steel case insert. i have an extra motor in pieces if you need anything.
tatro
I can relate. I bought a 75 xl with a "recently rebuilt" motor. Tried to fire it and it seized up. Started tear down and found waded up piston rings in timing cover from a piston that was broken in half. Rods had about an inch to inch and a half slop so digging deeper I found there were no connecting rod bearings even installed.
crooks are everywhere. sorry to hear about your bike.
tatro
Cool vid Tatro. This brings back memories when my older bro used to pick up junk bikes and we would make them run for pennies. Some of these "experts" just dont grasp the 'make it work' mindset. Has anyone ever told you you sound like Nick Cage? :)
not another one.
tatro
FWIW I think you did the right thing. The knock from the little end will warn anyone who knows what they are hearing that the engine has problems. But it won't just fail immediately.
Never throw bearings down! Lesson 1!
You dont beat any metal bolts with a meatal hammer PERIOD! Thank you for the video dude but you wont catch me beating the hell out of a HARLEY,Honda or whatever!
Saw you Punch mark a Bearing Bore done this many time in my line of work just to get something up and running . I also clean the bore and the outer race of the bearing and put on some 609 Loctite ( cylindrical Loctite ) or as I call it Diameter in a bottle works Great
same deal but i use the higher temp sleeve retainer loctite.
tatro
I wish I had your talent, I love learning about this. My wicked chopper has STD cases, it wont start only sputter ,suspect the cases full of oil, is it a good idea to take the cone off, to drain off some oil. You are a master builder, as well as good man .A fool that hides his folly is better than a wise man that hides his wisdom. Just trying to give some knowledge back. Thank you!
keep it simple, just take out the timing plug and lay the bike over on its left side. the oil will pour right out and then it should be able to start like normal.
tatro
Why not simply give the customer 2 options: Have me do it right, or give him the motor back, in pieces? IF you didn't get paid for it, then it's better to not do the work and not get paid, than to rig it and not get paid. Is your reputation tarnished more by the bad-mouthing of a dishonest customer, or a a premature failure?
@ 8:10 are you blind or aware how crooked you have that puller?
must be a dumbass, what do you expect.
tatro
I gotta question...An engine rebuilt as this one was and ridden conservatively, how long would it last? I mean, in miles?
life is an unknown. i have seen more than one supposably proper rebuilt motor last less than a hundred miles. i would guess 5-10k but i have seen pure junk motors last over 5 years of hard riding. you never know.
tatro
The shop looks like ground Zero, and they're reusing bearings. I wouldn't carry a wheel barrow to this shop for repair.
I've removed and installed nearly every type of bearing made. I've never had used bearings lying around.
he had rusted ones
So you expect TATRO pay for new parts for the customer?
TATRO tells you the customer wants him to put the motor back together so he can sell some other sucker. Tatro says hes not going to do that. This is why he uses parts he has obviously saved because they are ok and better than the damaged parts.
So what type of wheelbarrow do yyou ride?
I don't know what all the fuss is about it's a Harley Ferguson tractor being repaired by a farmer, happens every day on farms all over the world......proper job!!!
motoclonk dribblehead you really need to make a video. So I could learn from you. You e Got plenty of opinion so show me how its done
These are great videos. Obviously, Mr. Tatro knows what he's doing. Sadly, the best mechanical work can be quickly undone by few bunouts or frequent over-revving of engines. Riding style has a lot to do ith how long something will last, even if properly repaired.
not if i build them. my motors are made for me and i do all of that and way more. build the motor for the application and it will take a ton of abuse.
tatro
Tatro I have a technical question if you can help me?
I have a 2009 Buell 1203 I want to use for an XL build. I know I’ll have to split the case to use the crank and rods, etc. I’ve read that the stroke on the Buell is longer than the XL?
Do I need machine work for this to work? Will Sportster 1200 pistons be to heavy?
If it needs that work I’ll need your address I’m gonna have you do the work.
don't know much about buells. if the motor looks like a sportster you are ok but if not you are screwed.
tatro
I have never and will never do a shoddie job like that, shocking workmanship, centre punching a bore for a bearing OMG
then don't do it. it does work and it savers bad parts. especially ones that can not be easily replace like most od and racing harley parts. these tricks have been proven on all my race bikes for many years and i have the records and championships to prove it.
tatro
It works and saves time and money! I learned that as a heavy mechanic 20+ yrs ago. It is a common, proven method. Man knows what he is doing and gets paid to do it just like me.
Ok so you're gonna let the new owner know that in a few thousand miles she's gonna be toast ?
i have no control of what happens to this job after it leaves my door. i did what you see. from here they are on their own on how it goes back together. with any luck it never will.
tatro
Either way I'm glad you didn't just put the shit back together and pretend you didn't see it that kind of behaviour doesn't help anyone. I'm going to be building an old iron head or shovel head chop soon any tips on what to look out for?
junk. just keep an eye and good ear on whatever you are looking at. every year and model harley has its good and bad points.
tatro
Cool thanks
Just don't do it like in this video!
Tatro, sorry if this is a stupid question from a guy who’s not a mechanic (but I’ve having to learn all this stuff the hard way). You used the punch on the bearing landing and created all those dimples. Can you explain why? Nice video btw.
A modern day Burt Munro. I think I shall subscribe for that reason. Thanks for the videos, and the ass-in-ine comments from the "experts" that tell you its all wrong....
it was, but it works anyway. thats the trick in knowing what you are doing.
tatro
Last comment. You would never have had an issue taking off that bearing if you did it the right way and heated the bearing only just warm not red hot and it would have slid right off in your glove and not take the chance of marring the crank!
Is that speed wrench sae or metric??? :)
I gotta commend yall for for taking a bit of time to put some vaslene on the shaft some poor sucker is going to get..
Nice job! I did see a trick that could have helped a little, on the puller remove the nuts and insert a couple of deep sockets so the nuts would be clear of puller gettin you closer to bottoming out?
Well i am considering buying my first Harley and I was worried about buying a bodge job.Thanks to this video i am now absolutely paranoid !
I"m curious ,why no sealant when you put the halves back together? I"d be worrying about oil leakage unless the milling was that precise
not my job, the customer is going to do the final assembly. i am only doing the machining and clearancing.
tatro
Needed temporary assembly for locktite to set in place. We heard the customer acknowledge that he would be splitting the case again later.
what's with the adjustable wrench?????
new at this but will a 1988 crank fit a 1996 1200 sporster
why not little heat on bearing n shaft before such rowdy pull stress? hammer tap tap on puller shaft?
it usually doesn't help for me. i have had things red hot and still no difference. when the parts don't want to come off they can be a real pain.
tatro
Please, Gentlemen,
a Timken bearing assembly is meant to be maintained as a set. In this case, two outer rings, one outer spacer, 2 inner rings (with rollers) and one inner spacer. changing components destroys the factory pre-set clearances inside the bearing. You have already seen what happens when you lose control of the clearances. Look for the details on the packet, or use only OEM Replacements, but change the whole thing, and do not interchange component
s..
Greg (ex Timken Engineer)
this is what happens when you do not use the inner spacer ring. you can mix and match all day long as long as you set the clearances for the application. most new bearing assemblies i get are way off and would never work as packaged. just watch my videos on how far off they are. rarely are the correct.
tatro
I like that the next person to own that engine was considered. There's a difference in good used parts and junk. Watching someone who actually knows what they are doing is refreshing. Used parts keep my stuff going. I wouldn't be afraid of this engine at all.
sporsterini
it amazes me how much abuse a harley will take and keep going. that is why i like them. they are piles of crap but are very hard to kill. once you kill all it takes is a couple of small repairs and they will take some more.
tatro
sporsterini
I’d check the flange of the timken race for perpendicular or 90° squared bearing race & PTO shaft to crank case alignment.
its a harley, not the space shuttle.
tatro
what were the symptoms of the missing spacers? Rattling noises?
lots of noise and vibration would be a start.
tatro
Deliberately using faulty bearings? Wow, what a disgrace.
those faulty bearings will last a very long time compared to the junk ones i took out. i even clearanced them so that they will work correctly. you should have watched more of the video.
tatro
you notice that he had a drawer with more fucked up bearings, so he must do it on a regular basis.... wouldn't let him work on my lawnmover , must less my sled....
i know its a lot of extra work but youll save a lot of wear and tear on your pullers if you didnt use impact wrenches on them
i have very good pullers and they have lasted very many years as is. if i didn't have that kingkong puller that bearing would not have ever come off in one piece without damaging the shaft or threads. how would you put 600 ft pounds of torque on my puller? with your fingers in gloves?
tatro
Tatro Machine dont want to argue with you simply an observation a good long 1/2" ratchet and the puller clamped into a good vice is the best option and correct way to use those pullers if they are anything like my pullers there is a stamp on it somewhere that says not for use with impacts
i know you gotta do what you gotta do ive been guilty of doing the same thing at the cost of shortened life of my pullers just trying to help out the people that are trying to learn this stuff and want to know the correct procedures to using these tools
C D no actually they all say usa or germany on them thats why i take great care of them and dont use impacts because they are quite expensive and would hate to destroy them using them in a manner of which they were never designed
C D yes there have been situations where ive had to use my pullers in unorthodox manners where a vice or backup bar just isnt possible this is not one of those scenarios and the man is tearing up his tools simply because he is lazy and doesnt want to go through the effort to do it correctly kinda like that death trap of a motor he is working on to sell off to some unsuspecting victim i just hope it doesnt lock up on him at speed and cause an accident hack mechanic doing a hack job keeping it pieced together just long enough to offload it is what this video title should read
real world, real techniques, great video...... everyone at one point in time has to do this kinda stuff.... that'll prolly run forever
No, he doesn't have any illusion that it'll run a long time. It's a temporary fix and everyone Including him and the customer knows. It's more than the customer would pay for.
2nd comment. I wish I had some of these old beasts around; big engines are so much more fun than small ones. Drive behind a small-block Chevy, then get a big-block; it may not be efficient, and it may not make modern power, but it IS cool.
Oh, let me reach in this drawer and grab a shim for a timken bearing for this shovel.... I'm jealous!
after 17 years in one building i would hope i would have my shop layed out so that i can get things done.
tatro
that puller that you have with the Round Disc and the legs is an original Chrysler drum puller for splined drums there's supposed to be five legs with it I could be wrong that puller may have been made by Nash