Yes! I've been using the conical for a long time but I found that the heat transfer was too slow so it really affected my solder joints. Might start using the chisel tip
Great explanation on confusing topic of which tip to use for what kind of application. I would say that chisel type is probably the best for general soldering. Thanks for sharing.
I have an old UNGAR soldering iron from the 90's 7760 120V AC/DC. It has a screw on tip. Can you tell me what size the threaded end is? I'm looking to buy more tips but, none of the stores have them. So I'm looking on eBay and Amazon. Thank you.
Interesting, but did you learn it yourself or did someone showed you how to solder? I ask because in every demonstration I would do some if the things differently.
8:40 yesterday i used solder tool first time to solder that lcd and got solder bridge between two pins. i tried using wick but i was too noob to use it as it was sticking to the board and after struggling a bit i used gravity to desolder that means I lifted up that lcd with one hand and held it downwards and with other hand I desoldered (like removing dust from a ceiling fan :D).
Hi I just started first time to use my soldering. I need to change the tip. It's stuck inside an will NOT COME OUT of the silver case that holds the tip in. I don't want to return because I really need to use it. It wiggles a bit but that's it. I used my cb pliers to hold the tip near the base to push down.the tip. Just moves a bit back an forth. I'm 63 yr old woman. Just to let you know I'm not a wimpy man.
@@lorrylachapelle7302 Mam there is no need to worry about the soldering bit; simply loosen the screw and then use a plier to remove it. You can apply force without worrying about any damage.
@@VndNvwYvvSvv, yes, because the skinny pointy end of a conical tip has low mass and low thermal conductivity. I hate conical tips! One should endeavor to use the largest tip size that the size of the parts, or your soldering skills, will allow. I too prefer the "chisel" shaped tip, and if one needs to get into a tight spot, simply! turn the soldering iron 90 degrees sideways!
Whenever I try to solder, it's like all of the solder vanishes into thin air. Doesn't seem to be sticking to the tip, and it doesn't end up on the object I'm trying to work on. I've tried cleaning the object with alcohol, and followed tip tinning instructions, and so far have had little success actually soldering something! It's frustrating! It's like it just disappears! What am I doing wrong? Is my iron too hot? I've watched a few of these vids and followed the instructions closely, but the solder just 'poofs' away it seems.
Two reasons for solder not sticking is 1. oxidation, 2. not enough heat. If your tip is oxidized, solder won't stick to it even when hot enough. Same thing with the object you're soldering. Solder hates oxides and flows around it, like water avoids a hydrophobic material. On heavy duty objects like connector terminals or large stranded wire you can carefully use an abrasive like steel wool or a file to prepare the surface if it's really grimey. Never do that to your soldering tips, use a brass sponge, there are special kinds for soldering irons, but I hear the brass kind of sponge used for cleaning cook ware works too. The metal is softer than the tip and won't damage the coating on it. But more importantly - use flux. A cheap rosin flux will do fine. It's clears thin layers of oxides on materials and the tip of the iron when it gets hot, and this makes the solder flow and stick much better. How I clean my tip is I let it heat up, dip it into flux, put some solder on it, and then stab my brass sponge with it. I repeat that a few times. As for heat, solder moves towards the heat. If you put some solder to your iron and your tip is clean and your iron is hot, you should get a shiny coat of solder on it. There should always be SOME solder on your iron, it protects it from oxidizing. That's why when cleaning it I put solder on it, stabbing the brass sponge removes the excess and leaves a thin coating, which protects the tip as it cools down when I'm done soldering. I also clean it before I start soldering, and when I do, I put a little more solder on the tip before I get to work. You don't want to dab solder from the tip onto the material, but you want solder on the tip to create a heat bridge between the tip and the object you're soldering. If the object isn't hot enough, it will not take solder, even if the solder melts, it will work its way towards the tip and pool on it, or just sit like a blob on the object without really being bonded to the material. Shiny flat coating - good, fat round blob of solder - bad, because that means the solder balled up from its own surface tension because it didn't want to flow onto the surface. So what you do is you use the tip of the iron, with some solder on it to make the heat bridge, and you heat the object from one side, preferably from below, and then apply solder for the joint to the object itself when it's hot enough. Like if you are splicing or tinning wires... put flux on the wires, put the tinned tip below the wire, apply solder to the wire from above. The wire will get hot enough to melt the solder and wick it up. Same thing with connectors.. heat them from one side, and apply solder from the other, if possible. This will ensure the connector is hot enough to take the solder. If you put your iron to it from the top and push solder down from the tip, you might end up with a blob of solder there which isn't a good joint, because the connector wasn't hot enough to take the solder. Your soldering iron should be somewhere between 320 - 400 degrees Celsius, depending on what you're doing, what tip you're using etc. Apart from liberal use of flux, also use solder with a flux core, and the lead free stuff is crap. I'm not an expert by any means, but this is what works for me, hope it helps!
@@davenottingham3254, to the long, excellent and detailed post above, I'll add that a soldering iron which is *too hot* can also cause solder too ball up and not "wet" to the tip, nor to the connection, because excessive heat can quickly oxidize the tip and the connection, creating an oxide barrier against the flow of solder and flux. A defective or poorly designed iron, or one that is set to an excessively high temperature, can interfere with soldering, and can even cause foils to delaminate from a circuit board. You want the iron to be sufficiently hot, and clean/tinned, that the heat transfer is nearly instantaneous and you can quickly get in and out with the iron and solder. The other possible reason for solder balling up and not flowing onto the connection or adhering to the tip is low-quality solder, perhaps solder that doesn't have flux inside of it ---- with millions of hobbyists buying their soldering gear and accessories direct from China, poor quality soldering products are all too common. The quality of Asian made tips is also typically very poor ---- they should be made of copper for efficient heat transfer, and largely non-magnetic except for the pointy end which is specifically supposed to be iron plated for long life (solder and flux would quickly dissolve plain copper; iron accepts solder but resists being dissolved by it). Unfortunately, many cheap bulk-pack tips bought through Amazon, AliExpress, Banggood etc are made complately of iron or steel throughout, giving poor heat transfer; test your tips with a magnet to separate good tips from junk. I have a video about this on my channel. Its always best to buy solder and accessories from specialty electronics distributors in your own country.
You press too hard. You need to touch., not to push hard. You probably push hard because the tip of your iron isn't tinned and is oxidized. Oxidized tip doesn't transfer heat. You need to buy a new tip and tin it properly. Tin it regularly, otherwise it will oxidize and be ruined.
The tapered one did not help me with welding, it became dark in color and does not hold the weld. I made it a sander and it still does not hold the weld.
you need to flux it, tin it and turn down the temp a bit, i did the same to my first tip too and its essentially useless now compared to my undamaged tips
@@zakryhowell9652 ahahah, you know what I think? I could buy you wholesale, and I'll still have money left to buy quite a few like you... I just don't need any of you 😎
I was expecting to learn something,not to sit thru a video just to watch you show off your soldering skills??? What tips and tricks did you teach?? None!!!!
Good quality tips are made primarily of copper but with several other metals plated onto the tip: a coating of iron only on the pointy end (iron resists the dissolving effects of molten solder and flux, but bare copper quickly eaten away). Crappy tips are often made completely of iron or steel and have poor heat transfer.. A magnet will separate good tips from bad ( see video on my channel).
![⭐ฮิตในTikTok!! ( หมูเด้ง MooDeng ) Ver. แดนซ์โจ๊ะๆ ReMix BY [ ดีเจกิต รีมิกซ์ ]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/3krsyfWUeHU/mqdefault.jpg)
Latest video: Different Soldering Iron Tips Under Microscope:
th-cam.com/video/gx8LDzAVAS8/w-d-xo.html
This exactly the type of video I was looking for. Thank you!
Yes! I've been using the conical for a long time but I found that the heat transfer was too slow so it really affected my solder joints. Might start using the chisel tip
if you set the temp around 300C then it works great.
To me, your knife tip handling of solder bridges was magical! I always thought you needed a desoldering braid.
Louis Rossmann calls that a micropencil and he always recommends it. Now I know why.
Thanks so much for the great explanation, I just got a set of different soldering tips and now I know how to use them
Great explanation on confusing topic of which tip to use for what kind of application. I would say that chisel type is probably the best for general soldering. Thanks for sharing.
Never understood the chisel, knife and bevel tips and what they used for really, i just used the point tips for soldering everything, really helpful.
Now we need the maginfier brand you use. Keep videos coming. Thanks
Yes please
Very helpful video. I like the music also.👍💕
You sir are a genius. Excellent video.
Pros:
1. Step by step instructions
2. Detailed video
3. Easy to understand
4. Great music.
Cons:
None
Perfect, and great music!!
video starts at 02:13 😀
Thanks 👍🏻
Sir: Thank you. You made my day
Please can the soldering iron tips can be also called copper bit
This was extremely helpful. Thank you!
I have an old UNGAR soldering iron from the 90's 7760 120V AC/DC. It has a screw on tip. Can you tell me what size the threaded end is? I'm looking to buy more tips but, none of the stores have them. So I'm looking on eBay and Amazon. Thank you.
Good informative review!
Can you tell which tip is best for soldering strip lights connections
Nice info, thanks :)
SHEEEEEEESH 8:38. Brother dropped the beat.
hahahaha
Helpful video 👍 I like it
Interesting, but did you learn it yourself or did someone showed you how to solder? I ask because in every demonstration I would do some if the things differently.
Yeah he probably is very inexperienced
0:45 i love that type of soldering iron, easy to adjust and still working
i am still using the same soldering iron and tips
the temp adjument is really time saving
Great video!
8:40 yesterday i used solder tool first time to solder that lcd and got solder bridge between two pins. i tried using wick but i was too noob to use it as it was sticking to the board and after struggling a bit i used gravity to desolder that means I lifted up that lcd with one hand and held it downwards and with other hand I desoldered (like removing dust from a ceiling fan :D).
great, you know how to do it.
Hi
I just started first time to use my soldering. I need to change the tip. It's stuck inside an will NOT COME OUT of the silver case that holds the tip in.
I don't want to return because I really need to use it. It wiggles a bit but that's it. I used my cb pliers to hold the tip near the base to push down.the tip. Just moves a bit back an forth. I'm 63 yr old woman. Just to let you know I'm not a wimpy man.
@@lorrylachapelle7302 Mam there is no need to worry about the soldering bit; simply loosen the screw and then use a plier to remove it. You can apply force without worrying about any damage.
Cool, the tips are very expensive, even the clones:-)
Super Useful 👍
Nice useful information
thankyou ... very usefull
Something tells me your making this look easy.🤔
I like your accent. Is it Mumbai/Bombay?
whats the best for the LED strips?
Super 👍🏻👍🏻 🇮🇳 || Kuki 28|03|2022
I want to learn how to solder electronics
So many tips but I prefer the conical tip due to the reason I'm most accustom using that type
That's the worst for almost anything
@@VndNvwYvvSvv, yes, because the skinny pointy end of a conical tip has low mass and low thermal conductivity. I hate conical tips! One should endeavor to use the largest tip size that the size of the parts, or your soldering skills, will allow. I too prefer the "chisel" shaped tip, and if one needs to get into a tight spot, simply! turn the soldering iron 90 degrees sideways!
I use this soldering iron its good
Nice. What is name of background music?
Sir can you give a purchase link of your soldering iron tips
all the links are added in the description
thank you :)
Whenever I try to solder, it's like all of the solder vanishes into thin air. Doesn't seem to be sticking to the tip, and it doesn't end up on the object I'm trying to work on. I've tried cleaning the object with alcohol, and followed tip tinning instructions, and so far have had little success actually soldering something! It's frustrating! It's like it just disappears! What am I doing wrong? Is my iron too hot? I've watched a few of these vids and followed the instructions closely, but the solder just 'poofs' away it seems.
Two reasons for solder not sticking is 1. oxidation, 2. not enough heat. If your tip is oxidized, solder won't stick to it even when hot enough. Same thing with the object you're soldering.
Solder hates oxides and flows around it, like water avoids a hydrophobic material. On heavy duty objects like connector terminals or large stranded wire you can carefully use an abrasive like steel wool or a file to prepare the surface if it's really grimey. Never do that to your soldering tips, use a brass sponge, there are special kinds for soldering irons, but I hear the brass kind of sponge used for cleaning cook ware works too. The metal is softer than the tip and won't damage the coating on it. But more importantly - use flux. A cheap rosin flux will do fine. It's clears thin layers of oxides on materials and the tip of the iron when it gets hot, and this makes the solder flow and stick much better. How I clean my tip is I let it heat up, dip it into flux, put some solder on it, and then stab my brass sponge with it. I repeat that a few times.
As for heat, solder moves towards the heat. If you put some solder to your iron and your tip is clean and your iron is hot, you should get a shiny coat of solder on it. There should always be SOME solder on your iron, it protects it from oxidizing. That's why when cleaning it I put solder on it, stabbing the brass sponge removes the excess and leaves a thin coating, which protects the tip as it cools down when I'm done soldering. I also clean it before I start soldering, and when I do, I put a little more solder on the tip before I get to work. You don't want to dab solder from the tip onto the material, but you want solder on the tip to create a heat bridge between the tip and the object you're soldering. If the object isn't hot enough, it will not take solder, even if the solder melts, it will work its way towards the tip and pool on it, or just sit like a blob on the object without really being bonded to the material. Shiny flat coating - good, fat round blob of solder - bad, because that means the solder balled up from its own surface tension because it didn't want to flow onto the surface. So what you do is you use the tip of the iron, with some solder on it to make the heat bridge, and you heat the object from one side, preferably from below, and then apply solder for the joint to the object itself when it's hot enough. Like if you are splicing or tinning wires... put flux on the wires, put the tinned tip below the wire, apply solder to the wire from above. The wire will get hot enough to melt the solder and wick it up. Same thing with connectors.. heat them from one side, and apply solder from the other, if possible. This will ensure the connector is hot enough to take the solder. If you put your iron to it from the top and push solder down from the tip, you might end up with a blob of solder there which isn't a good joint, because the connector wasn't hot enough to take the solder. Your soldering iron should be somewhere between 320 - 400 degrees Celsius, depending on what you're doing, what tip you're using etc.
Apart from liberal use of flux, also use solder with a flux core, and the lead free stuff is crap.
I'm not an expert by any means, but this is what works for me, hope it helps!
@@Shabbymannen I don’t know if you’ll ever see this but thank you for taking the time to write this! It’s a great help.
@@davenottingham3254, to the long, excellent and detailed post above, I'll add that a soldering iron which is *too hot* can also cause solder too ball up and not "wet" to the tip, nor to the connection, because excessive heat can quickly oxidize the tip and the connection, creating an oxide barrier against the flow of solder and flux. A defective or poorly designed iron, or one that is set to an excessively high temperature, can interfere with soldering, and can even cause foils to delaminate from a circuit board. You want the iron to be sufficiently hot, and clean/tinned, that the heat transfer is nearly instantaneous and you can quickly get in and out with the iron and solder. The other possible reason for solder balling up and not flowing onto the connection or adhering to the tip is low-quality solder, perhaps solder that doesn't have flux inside of it ---- with millions of hobbyists buying their soldering gear and accessories direct from China, poor quality soldering products are all too common.
The quality of Asian made tips is also typically very poor ---- they should be made of copper for efficient heat transfer, and largely non-magnetic except for the pointy end which is specifically supposed to be iron plated for long life (solder and flux would quickly dissolve plain copper; iron accepts solder but resists being dissolved by it). Unfortunately, many cheap bulk-pack tips bought through Amazon, AliExpress, Banggood etc are made complately of iron or steel throughout, giving poor heat transfer; test your tips with a magnet to separate good tips from junk. I have a video about this on my channel. Its always best to buy solder and accessories from specialty electronics distributors in your own country.
Why does my tip keep breaking when I use this solder? I use it at 300 degree but it keeps melting off or the tip keeps breaking
You press too hard. You need to touch., not to push hard. You probably push hard because the tip of your iron isn't tinned and is oxidized. Oxidized tip doesn't transfer heat. You need to buy a new tip and tin it properly. Tin it regularly, otherwise it will oxidize and be ruined.
@@xavytex I tin it regularly but when using the sponge it breaks off when wiping lol...every one of my tips have melted or broken off just by touch
Can I use 35w tip for 50w Soldering iron
Nice bro superb
Not going to lie. I straight felt flexed on during that soldering montage.
My soldering iron doesn't use hollow tips , and I can't find solid tips
2:45 The one you're touching. Is it good for soldering head pin to Arduino module? And what diameter of the lead 1.0 or 1.2?
i have nothing other than that and it works really well. chissle is my preferred one for most stuff though
get the thicker conical one. cuz the very pointy one is very hard to solder and only used for small smd parts
C series is best for everything. You can choose 1c for anything purpose
Yo soldered board looks perfect than mine
When i change the tip it just slips and falls out, what am i doing wrong?
I wish there was something about horseshoe soldering tips.
why is that intro so cinematic and the video so silent, no bg music etc
We can found it where here in zambia
The tapered one did not help me with welding, it became dark in color and does not hold the weld. I made it a sander and it still does not hold the weld.
you need to flux it, tin it and turn down the temp a bit, i did the same to my first tip too and its essentially useless now compared to my undamaged tips
Too much heat or not enough flux. Do you know what tip tinner is? Get some
what centrigrade its celsius
Way too much advertisement for overpriced items... Come on, be sensible.
I think youre just broke
@@zakryhowell9652 ahahah, you know what I think? I could buy you wholesale, and I'll still have money left to buy quite a few like you... I just don't need any of you 😎
How to make solder
Most normal people say "Celcius" :/
Same thing, but centigrade is more descriptive.
I was expecting to learn something,not to sit thru a video just to watch you show off your soldering skills??? What tips and tricks did you teach?? None!!!!
Please can the soldering iron tips can be also called copper bit
Good quality tips are made primarily of copper but with several other metals plated onto the tip: a coating of iron only on the pointy end (iron resists the dissolving effects of molten solder and flux, but bare copper quickly eaten away). Crappy tips are often made completely of iron or steel and have poor heat transfer.. A magnet will separate good tips from bad ( see video on my channel).