Hi, I know this video is a little old, but would you mind sharing links for these components? New to electrical wiring and doing a senior college capstone robotics project and would like to avoid soldering. (links for switch, short circuit cutoff, connectors for switch) Thank you and your videos have been very informative!
Hi, I'm really enjoying your ros guide videos. Could you show or advice some solutions to have non-removable onboard batter with charging port. I'm working on home survilliance robot-assistant
Thanks! I am hoping to do a video on integrating IMUs at some point, but probably not as part of this build, since the encoder feedback and lidar SLAM will be sufficient for localisation on this robot. I'd really like to do a project that fuses an IMU with lidar or RGBD camera data (e.g. github.com/TixiaoShan/LIO-SAM ).
Great question. Firstly the battery is much higher than 6A - check out my notes on the "C" rating (I think in the previous video). You want the fuse rating to be higher than what you expect the load to be, but less than what will damage your wiring and power supply. What makes it tricky is that some loads (e.g. motors) can spike very high and wiring and supply can often sustain a short high spike, so the time the fuse takes to blow can also be relevant.
Hi Josh, I am curious what kind of connectors you are using that plug into the terminal strips joining two wires. Are those just two wires crimped into the same connector? i bought the same terminal strips, so curious to know the details.
I think the concerns are generally around if the software is still writing data or something it could become corrupt. I often turn it off at the switch and have had no issues, but sometimes you see online that other people do, so better to do it right if you can. :)
Hi, I don't believe the Pi has a built-in regulator (apart from the 3.3V one). Earlier models had a polyfuse on the USB line which is probably what you are thinking of, but the Pi 4 does not have this so powering over the pins is the same as over USB :)
watching this brought back memories of my undergrad lab sessions. Great video Josh.
Thank you for very good tutorial ~
Great video as usual 😀
Thanks :D
Perfect video! Thank you!
Thanks
Hi, I know this video is a little old, but would you mind sharing links for these components? New to electrical wiring and doing a senior college capstone robotics project and would like to avoid soldering. (links for switch, short circuit cutoff, connectors for switch) Thank you and your videos have been very informative!
gacor kanggg
Cool..
Hi, I'm really enjoying your ros guide videos. Could you show or advice some solutions to have non-removable onboard batter with charging port. I'm working on home survilliance robot-assistant
Do you have to use VDC rated switches or VAC will also works well?
It is quite hard to get VDC switches in my area.
Interested to see how you connect and interface with motors, sensors and other things. I assume you are going to use an accelerometer (MPU6050)?
Thanks! I am hoping to do a video on integrating IMUs at some point, but probably not as part of this build, since the encoder feedback and lidar SLAM will be sufficient for localisation on this robot.
I'd really like to do a project that fuses an IMU with lidar or RGBD camera data (e.g. github.com/TixiaoShan/LIO-SAM ).
Hey there, which blog post details the wiring of the robot
What gauge wires are you using? They look like different sizes..
Great video! What kind of crimp connectors are you using in the montage?
I am mostly using ferrules/boot laces crimps :)
Hi sir, how do we choose the correct fuse value? for example, you used a 10A fuse for the 12.6V 6A Li Po battery.
Great question. Firstly the battery is much higher than 6A - check out my notes on the "C" rating (I think in the previous video).
You want the fuse rating to be higher than what you expect the load to be, but less than what will damage your wiring and power supply.
What makes it tricky is that some loads (e.g. motors) can spike very high and wiring and supply can often sustain a short high spike, so the time the fuse takes to blow can also be relevant.
Hi Josh,
I am curious what kind of connectors you are using that plug into the terminal strips joining two wires. Are those just two wires crimped into the same connector? i bought the same terminal strips, so curious to know the details.
I am mostly using ferrules/boot laces crimps :)
Could please the switch name or switch product serial Name/ID?
How many Amp of the terminal strp?
What is thick of the wire???
What are the things you put on the wires after cutting them?
These are called ferrules or sometimes bootlaces
What might go wrong if py is shut down using the switch? Some electric issues might arise?
I think the concerns are generally around if the software is still writing data or something it could become corrupt. I often turn it off at the switch and have had no issues, but sometimes you see online that other people do, so better to do it right if you can. :)
dont power the rpi that way, I am pretty sure you are bypassing the built in vreg
Hi, I don't believe the Pi has a built-in regulator (apart from the 3.3V one). Earlier models had a polyfuse on the USB line which is probably what you are thinking of, but the Pi 4 does not have this so powering over the pins is the same as over USB :)