Hi David. Another great and informative, well detailed video. As usual, I will defer to your videos when trying out new systems. Thanks again for a great video. Keep producing them my friend.
Hi DAVID . Just made a couple of these couplings up today and like yourself i made a few jigs to make life easier ( back in my cabinet making days i was always told to spend a bit of time to make a jig as it would save time ) true to this day . Thanks for the journey ,well worth it ....
Hi David, I have watched all your trials and tribulations with the S&W's and it is good to see that you have finally arrived at a solution that you ae happy with and, I must say, clearly works very well. Great stuff......John
Hi David, thanks for sharing your video. I also use SW couplings. Though a little fiddly to set up but once done they are okay. For me I prefer to have the bar {or coupling loop} between the buffer rather than right across them. Your right about having the paddle as a sloppy fit. At first I had the paddle too tight in the staple but this stopped the paddle from working correctly but once I gave it a bit more freedom it worked okay. My locos have just the coupling loops on them where the wagons have a hook at one end. Brake vans and Utility/CCT vans have hooks both ends. Coaching stock are kept in fixed formations so only have working couplings at each end of the rakes. All Best Dave
Hi Dave, nice to hear from another S&W user. I used the coupling loop at first but was persuaded by the BRM suggestion. My (goods) locos also just have the bar across front & rear buffers, again this is easy to remove and involves no loco modification. I have adopted the same idea regarding my wagons - hooks at one end only with brake and utility vans sporting 2 hooks. Have not looked too much at coaching stock yet, although some look pretty good with the Hornby close-couplings fitted but keeping them in fixed rakes is definitely the way I will go. ... David
Hi, many thanks, appreciate your comments. I needed to 'standardise' on couplings as I owned a variety of older stock together with new stock and kits. S&W are a bit time consuming to fit but seem to work pretty consistently ... David
Hi Eric, another S&W fan. I have all my wagons converted now and (for the most part) they work fine. I don't think there is a system that is 100% fault free so I ham very happy with them. Glad to have helped - David
Thanks for the series, very interesting, had not heard of the s&w before. I am heavily into operations with lots of switching uncoupling etc see my channel. I like the couplings but looks like a lot of work and no standard eg nem362 fitting. I have 140 cars, so would be a major undertaking. Think I'll pass, but again thanks for the series, well made. Robert.
I have never seen these but then again I am in Canada, so never will. they seem to work well, stick with what you are happy with is all that matters, and all will be perfect
I have not come across these before David and so I was very interested in seeing these in operation on your stock, the idea looks very good and unobtrusive, the only thing that I'm not keen on is the bar that runs across both buffers but they look as if they work just fine which I guess is the important thing. ............Graham
Hi Graham, thanks for your comment. Once the bar is painted/weathered it is surprisingly unobtrusive - much more so than the smallest tension lock available. I was also a bit concerned about this but it does mean that locos only need this bar. If you want to re-sell an expensive loco the bar can easily be removed, no other modification is needed. I opted for the slightly finer couplings (for HO I think) the 00 gauge ones are a little more clunky. The small problems I am now having are more to do with my initial track laying - I am trying to pluck up courage to re-lay some of my track, I know you did, I might follow your lead at some time. ... David
Hi David, yes I did relay the track - twice! I consider the track being the equivalent of the foundations to a house, the track is what everything relies upon to travel around the layout with issues, I had many issues with mine initially (purely through lack of experience) and I could see that I would get fed up eventually with having to keep putting stock back on the track and would therefore take away the enjoyment and fun a layout should give, it was much better take up the track now and do it again before I got too far on with the layout and I'm glad I did because I can now leave trains running for hours on end without (in the main) any issues. I have to admit that seeing how your uncoupling works then it looks very impressive and the nice thing about it is that it's all very uncomplicated with not a lot to go wrong - very nice indeed. ........Graham
Hi Graham, yes - inexperience catches us out, and you are right about the track. Going to have to bite the bullet I think. Thanks again for your kind comments. ... David
And for me too David, inexperience still catches me out. But this is what I enjoy about this hobby of ours, it's not easy, if it were I would be bored and I'm never that. Thankfully there are many folk on here who can put me right along the way. Taking up the troublesome track may seem like a hard decision at the time you are standing there in front of it but once started you will know that you have made the right decision - I know that I did when I saw everything running smoothly afterwards and never regretted it. It had to be done. ........Graham
Thanks Graham, for the encouragement. I know it makes sense, jut got to pluck up the courage to start, it won't be this side of Christmas though. Regards David
Great to see your journey with these, especially the tips at the end. Do you take a lot of care over the fore/aft position of the hook though. It looks important but you don’t particularly mention it. Thanks
Hi Simon, thanks for your comment. I think it is very important to see that the bar between the buffers is set at a constant height on each wagon and loco. There is a little play in the exact position of the hook. It must rest so that the forward slope touches the bar (on the wagon to be coupled). As the loco moves to couple the hook must ride down smoothly and engage under the bar. Also the hook must pivot freely on the staple - a little solder weight is added to the plate of the hook. If this is done carefully then there should be no problem. Hope this helps ... David
Hi Davis thanks for the Sprat & Winkle series of videos. A couple of questions:- Now that you have used them for a while, are they reliable and would you still recommend them? Also, how do you blacken the parts - with paint or chemicals? Regards Ray Wilson
Hello Ray, glad you found the S&W videos useful. Yes, I am committed to them now, and I would recommend them. I'll take your second question first. I have tried chemical black, patchy results (literally) then they got painted over with the weathering. Now I just leave them and weather them with the chassis. I have used the S&W for a while now, here are some good and bad points. GOOD : 1 Will enable you to match wagons from different manufacturers/eras 2 They are cheap 3 The delayed uncoupling feature is very useful for placing wagons 4 Setting the uncoupling magnets in the track is easy (I use neo magnets not the supplied ones - personal choice) 5 Given that there is not a coupling system out there that claims perfection, I find the operation of the S&W reliable BAD: (well not so good really) 1 A bit fiddly in places to assemble (I only really got them to work when I made the jig) 2 You need to make a jig 3 You will loose much of the resale value when you convert away from stock standard couplings CUSTOM; There are a few things I do that are not as instructed. 1 I cut the buffer beams. It helps make a constant height for the staple. 2 I no longer bother with the mounting plates. For me they create more problems than they solve 4 I use strong neo magnets (ebay) as mentioned above 5 I use larger diameter wire for the bar (glued across the buffers) 6 I normally only fit 1 hook per wagon FINALLY: I have fitted them to 45 wagons and have no plans to change. I have not fitted them to any coaches or bogey wagons. I intend to use different couplings for my coaches. Hope all this helps - David
Many thanks for your detailed reply David. I will definitely give them a try in the near future starting with a rake of about 6 wagons and see how it goes! regards Ray Wilson raywilsonpix.weebly.com
Hi Alexander, Thanks for your question. Truth is I don't really know. I have decided not to use them on my coaches. I used them on my goods wagons because I want an auto coupling system which allows me to make up goods trains and I fit the S&W couplings direct to the wagon bodies. I intend to run the coaches in fixed rakes so I don't need the S&Ws fitted too them. Besides, the couplings would need to be fitted to the bogies so I am not sure how they would work. The minimum radius on my layout is PECO medium track. They probably would work on a tighter curve, perhaps using the more 'standard' OO fittings S&W make. Please search elsewhere for this, I don't want to mislead you. Good luck .. David
Very interesting series David. I am going to persevere with my ordinary couplings for now but I also have a shunting layout and S&W couplings may be the way to go. Can I ask, does the staple have to be brass (or indeed hand made)? Could you use an actual steel paper staple, or is that affected by the magnet? Cheers, Davie
Hi davie. The chain needs to be soft iron as it pulled by the track magnet. In the kit brass is used for all other components. I would imagine the non-magnetic property of brass is important. I have not used another material but I would advise against anything that is going to get 'magnetized'. Hope this helps ... David
Thy are made by Model Signals but are sold by Wizard Models (link below) www.wizardmodels.co.uk/FrameSetShop.php?DM=wizabout You can get a starter kit with instructions see Pt.1 video. You have to make the staples although I think you can buy the chain - I might look into this myself. Regards, David
Fantastic series of videos thank you for making them.
I'm about to embark on the Spratt & Winkle journey. Your videos have alleviated some of my fears. Thanks David.
Hi David. Another great and informative, well detailed video. As usual, I will defer to your videos when trying out new systems. Thanks again for a great video. Keep producing them my friend.
Based on this series I'm going full S&W - thank you so much for documenting your journey.
Many thanks, hope you get on well with them. Thanks for the comment, much appreciated ... David
Hi DAVID . Just made a couple of these couplings up today and like yourself i made a few jigs to make life easier ( back in my cabinet making days i was always told to spend a bit of time to make a jig as it would save time ) true to this day . Thanks for the journey ,well worth it ....
Nice work! glad I have helped.
I went over to using these years ago and glad i did.
Thanks Darren - I liked them as you know. John uses a different coupling (can't remember which}.👍👍
These are the couplings I am going to go with. I have found your video's very informative. Thanks.
Hi, apologies for the late reply, yes i am a fan of the S&W couplings, cheap, simple and effective - good luck with them - David
Hi David, I have watched all your trials and tribulations with the S&W's and it is good to see that you have finally arrived at a solution that you ae happy with and, I must say, clearly works very well. Great stuff......John
Thanks John, yes I am happy, I don't think I have achieved 'perfection' but at least I can move on.
Appreciate your comment. ... David
Hi David, thanks for sharing your video. I also use SW couplings. Though a little fiddly to set up but once done they are okay. For me I prefer to have the bar {or coupling loop} between the buffer rather than right across them. Your right about having the paddle as a sloppy fit. At first I had the paddle too tight in the staple but this stopped the paddle from working correctly but once I gave it a bit more freedom it worked okay. My locos have just the coupling loops on them where the wagons have a hook at one end. Brake vans and Utility/CCT vans have hooks both ends. Coaching stock are kept in fixed formations so only have working couplings at each end of the rakes.
All Best
Dave
Hi Dave, nice to hear from another S&W user. I used the coupling loop at first but was persuaded by the BRM suggestion. My (goods) locos also just have the bar across front & rear buffers, again this is easy to remove and involves no loco modification. I have adopted the same idea regarding my wagons - hooks at one end only with brake and utility vans sporting 2 hooks. Have not looked too much at coaching stock yet, although some look pretty good with the Hornby close-couplings fitted but keeping them in fixed rakes is definitely the way I will go. ... David
Nicely put together videos. Interesting couplings - might give them a try, as I always thought they were more for finescale layouts. thanks.
Hi, many thanks, appreciate your comments. I needed to 'standardise' on couplings as I owned a variety of older stock together with new stock and kits. S&W are a bit time consuming to fit but seem to work pretty consistently ... David
So satisfying to watch!
Many thanks, appreciate your comment. ... David
I have started with my sprat and winkle couplings. I have followed some if your ideas on these couplings and early indications area good. Thanks.
Hi Eric, another S&W fan. I have all my wagons converted now and (for the most part) they work fine. I don't think there is a system that is 100% fault free so I ham very happy with them. Glad to have helped - David
Thanks for the series, very interesting, had not heard of the s&w before. I am heavily into operations with lots of switching uncoupling etc see my channel. I like the couplings but looks like a lot of work and no standard eg nem362 fitting. I have 140 cars, so would be a major undertaking. Think I'll pass, but again thanks for the series, well made. Robert.
I have never seen these but then again I am in Canada, so never will. they seem to work well, stick with what you are happy with is all that matters, and all will be perfect
Quite popular on exhibition layouts in the UK, I am happy with them which is, as you say, all that matters ... David
I have not come across these before David and so I was very interested in seeing these in operation on your stock, the idea looks very good and unobtrusive, the only thing that I'm not keen on is the bar that runs across both buffers but they look as if they work just fine which I guess is the important thing. ............Graham
Hi Graham, thanks for your comment. Once the bar is painted/weathered it is surprisingly unobtrusive - much more so than the smallest tension lock available. I was also a bit concerned about this but it does mean that locos only need this bar. If you want to re-sell an expensive loco the bar can easily be removed, no other modification is needed. I opted for the slightly finer couplings (for HO I think) the 00 gauge ones are a little more clunky. The small problems I am now having are more to do with my initial track laying - I am trying to pluck up courage to re-lay some of my track, I know you did, I might follow your lead at some time. ... David
Hi David, yes I did relay the track - twice! I consider the track being the equivalent of the foundations to a house, the track is what everything relies upon to travel around the layout with issues, I had many issues with mine initially (purely through lack of experience) and I could see that I would get fed up eventually with having to keep putting stock back on the track and would therefore take away the enjoyment and fun a layout should give, it was much better take up the track now and do it again before I got too far on with the layout and I'm glad I did because I can now leave trains running for hours on end without (in the main) any issues.
I have to admit that seeing how your uncoupling works then it looks very impressive and the nice thing about it is that it's all very uncomplicated with not a lot to go wrong - very nice indeed. ........Graham
Hi Graham, yes - inexperience catches us out, and you are right about the track. Going to have to bite the bullet I think. Thanks again for your kind comments. ... David
And for me too David, inexperience still catches me out. But this is what I enjoy about this hobby of ours, it's not easy, if it were I would be bored and I'm never that. Thankfully there are many folk on here who can put me right along the way. Taking up the troublesome track may seem like a hard decision at the time you are standing there in front of it but once started you will know that you have made the right decision - I know that I did when I saw everything running smoothly afterwards and never regretted it. It had to be done. ........Graham
Thanks Graham, for the encouragement. I know it makes sense, jut got to pluck up the courage to start, it won't be this side of Christmas though. Regards David
Great to see your journey with these, especially the tips at the end. Do you take a lot of care over the fore/aft position of the hook though. It looks important but you don’t particularly mention it. Thanks
Hi Simon, thanks for your comment. I think it is very important to see that the bar between the buffers is set at a constant height on each wagon and loco. There is a little play in the exact position of the hook. It must rest so that the forward slope touches the bar (on the wagon to be coupled). As the loco moves to couple the hook must ride down smoothly and engage under the bar. Also the hook must pivot freely on the staple - a little solder weight is added to the plate of the hook. If this is done carefully then there should be no problem. Hope this helps ... David
Hi Davis thanks for the Sprat & Winkle series of videos. A couple of questions:- Now that you have used them for a while, are they reliable and would you still recommend them? Also, how do you blacken the parts - with paint or chemicals?
Regards
Ray Wilson
Hello Ray, glad you found the S&W videos useful. Yes, I am committed to them now, and I would recommend them. I'll take your second question first. I have tried chemical black, patchy results (literally) then they got painted over with the weathering. Now I just leave them and weather them with the chassis. I have used the S&W for a while now, here are some good and bad points.
GOOD :
1 Will enable you to match wagons from different manufacturers/eras
2 They are cheap
3 The delayed uncoupling feature is very useful for placing wagons
4 Setting the uncoupling magnets in the track is easy (I use neo magnets not the supplied ones - personal choice)
5 Given that there is not a coupling system out there that claims perfection, I find the operation of the S&W reliable
BAD: (well not so good really)
1 A bit fiddly in places to assemble (I only really got them to work when I made the jig)
2 You need to make a jig
3 You will loose much of the resale value when you convert away from stock standard couplings
CUSTOM;
There are a few things I do that are not as instructed.
1 I cut the buffer beams. It helps make a constant height for the staple.
2 I no longer bother with the mounting plates. For me they create more problems than they solve
4 I use strong neo magnets (ebay) as mentioned above
5 I use larger diameter wire for the bar (glued across the buffers)
6 I normally only fit 1 hook per wagon
FINALLY:
I have fitted them to 45 wagons and have no plans to change.
I have not fitted them to any coaches or bogey wagons.
I intend to use different couplings for my coaches.
Hope all this helps - David
Many thanks for your detailed reply David. I will definitely give them a try in the near future starting with a rake of about 6 wagons and see how it goes!
regards
Ray Wilson raywilsonpix.weebly.com
I have discovered in an online forum that a black permanent marker pen is ideal for blackening the couplings!
Sensible approach Ray. Love your photos by-the-way - very impressive - David
Hi David perhaps I missed this but why do you mount the coupling bar between the buffers and not on the mounting plate as in video 1? Thank you !
nice model train video
Many thanks, appreciate your comment. ... David
David Hyde your welcome and you should check out my new video's on my channel
Hi,how this coupligs works at longer coaches ( european 2-axis ) and what radius is minimal for them ? regards.
Hi Alexander, Thanks for your question. Truth is I don't really know. I have decided not to use them on my coaches. I used them on my goods wagons because I want an auto coupling system which allows me to make up goods trains and I fit the S&W couplings direct to the wagon bodies. I intend to run the coaches in fixed rakes so I don't need the S&Ws fitted too them. Besides, the couplings would need to be fitted to the bogies so I am not sure how they would work.
The minimum radius on my layout is PECO medium track. They probably would work on a tighter curve, perhaps using the more 'standard' OO fittings S&W make. Please search elsewhere for this, I don't want to mislead you. Good luck .. David
Very interesting series David. I am going to persevere with my ordinary couplings for now but I also have a shunting layout and S&W couplings may be the way to go. Can I ask, does the staple have to be brass (or indeed hand made)? Could you use an actual steel paper staple, or is that affected by the magnet? Cheers, Davie
Hi davie. The chain needs to be soft iron as it pulled by the track magnet. In the kit brass is used for all other components. I would imagine the non-magnetic property of brass is important. I have not used another material but I would advise against anything that is going to get 'magnetized'. Hope this helps ... David
Yes, that makes sense. Thanks David
Sorry, meant to ask. Where did you get yours?
Thy are made by Model Signals but are sold by Wizard Models (link below)
www.wizardmodels.co.uk/FrameSetShop.php?DM=wizabout
You can get a starter kit with instructions see Pt.1 video. You have to make the staples although I think you can buy the chain - I might look into this myself. Regards, David
I notice you have a wheel drops on the frog of the point?.
great video...very interesting ! cheers dave
Many thanks dave, appreciate your comment. ... David