when i watch things like people making things for themselves I long for the day when I wasn't even born yet. nostalgic for a time when I wasn't even a twinkle in my mother's eye. love for a day I didn't exist in. sometimes it hurts me deeply to watch. i morn for a future downfall I can see coming a long way off. ever watch a dream die?
Hello, the job was very well done! I'm really considering improving this type of frame saw because it has potential. I believe that the sliding saw blade holders should be additionally tightened with screws. Then the saw blade would be very rigidly mounted in the frame. His jumping up and down seems to confirm my point. Of course, its length influences this phenomenon. The analysis of the functioning of typical frame saws leads me to believe that the description and the validity of the mentioned improvement are correct. To sum up, the easiest way would be to install the second saw blade tension on the opposite side. Moreover, the frame for such a long saw seems to be too stiff. Congratulations and best regards 😀.
Great Job! Please be careful pushing a chisel towards a body part. In 40 years of woodworking, a wood chisel is the only tool that ever sent me to the emergency room.
Great video, thanks for sharing. I 'm also turning some beech log into lumber with hand tool, mainly for making planes and tool handle. I usually split the log in half fist then go from there, because splitting review the grain( twist and bend) and I can make my plane tool handle accordingly to have less run out. I think if you use the saw on push stroke and lay the log horizontal while sawing vertical( like pit saw) it might help to stay on the line.
These saws seem to cut better on the push stroke, rocking your weight forward when pushing the saw; this helps you get a longer stroke and use more of the blade too. You are using mostly your arms and it will get very tiring that way, and it's not efficient; you have a saw about 1m long and youre not using half the blade. The blade may be why you used it on the pull stroke mostly, a bandsaw blade usually has a positive rake on the tooth (the tooth leans forward) this makes it very aggressive and hard to use, itll want to "stick" in the wood becasue the tooth is so aggressive. When you sharpen the saw, file away some of the rake at the front of the tooth, aim to file 0⁰ of rake into the teeth (the front of the teeth should be straight up and down, 90⁰ to the toothline, not with the tooth leaning forward) this will make the saw easier to use and it wont want to "grab" as much 😁 If your saw "sticks" or "stops" at the same point on the toothline everytime, it means your blade needs to be "jointed"; there is a tooth that is higher than the teeth in front of it and when that taller tooth hits the wood the saw stops. To fix this you'll need to use a flat file and run it along the tips of the teeth to make them all straight and the same height. File until you see a flat spot on the tip of every tooth, it's normal if some teeth have a bigger flat spot; these are the teeth that were too tall. Then you'll need to sharpen it with a large saw file, taking half of the flat spot on each tooth away before you move to the next gullet........ the file will cut the back of one tooth and the front of another tooth at the same time, so it's important that you only take half the flat spot away before you move to the next gullet; this will keep the teeth the same height. Moving left to right, from back to front of the blade, keep the left side of your file vertical so you get your 0⁰ of rake on the tooth and file the tooth who's face (front cutting edge that faces forward) is set away from you (this might not be the first tooth) skip one tooth so the next tooth face is still set away from you. When you have got to the toe of the blade flip it around and work from right to left, always from the back of the blade towards the front, this time the right side of the file will be vertical to create your 0⁰ rake and file every tooth you skipped last time (every second tooth) the set should still be leaning away from you...... the file cuts better on the front of the tooth that leans away from you, filing a tooth that leans toward you will "chatter" and the front of the tooth that does the cutting wont be as good. It's not hard to file a saw, but it is daunting if you've never done it before. If this is the case; go online or to somewhere that sells old tools, buy the cheapest old saw you can find and learn to file that before you move on to a saw that you intend to use. It's easier than it seems, it seems nearly "scary" if you've never done it before..... but trust me; it is easier than you think to sharpen saws 😁
Wow, this is a very informative comment. I'm planning to build another saw with a much stiffer blade and I will surely be sharpening it following your suggestions. It might take a while till I find the time though...
Something tells me that this type of saw can cut equally on push or pull, but it depends entirely on how you're using it. I.e. pushing against the tops of the fibers or with the fibers. Pushing in most bench configurations will result in a better push stroke. I'm planning on building one to be more of a pull stroke because in general your pull muscles are stronger and more built for endurance. I also train on the trowing machine, so I want to translate that movement into efficient sawing.
Grazie! Questa è la prima e l'unica che io abbia mai usato, quindi non sono affatto esperto. L'idea che mi sono fatto però è che per fare le tavole dai tronchi se non si è in due persone non è il massimo. Il prossimo esperimento per segare i tronchi è costruire una sega di quelle che usavano una volta i giapponesi (前挽大鋸) che si usa da soli e mi sembra efficace, anche se probabilmente molto stancante. Per dividere le tavole invece una sega così penso vada bene, solo che quella che ho fatto io è troppo grande. Dovrei rifare i due listelli orizzontali così da renderla più maneggevole.
That is literally one of my next projects! I want to make my Framesaw out of Hardwood. P.S. I think your Saw dont perform as well because you have to tension the Blade was more. James wright has made a good Video About this type of saws. Many Greetings Oh, and you usually push the saw to cut instead of pulling them
my shed is been neglected for some time now there are repairs needed and some improovment needed as well . when winter is all but gone ill will get sarted again ,i fully intend to begain some projects the saw is high in my list, you are a wonderful man for building it and recording the build thank you for that. i am watching more of your recordings and will be from here forth phunny how informitive your videos are with out you ever speaking a word. keep up the good work you aver goodman for this, poeple should know how todo thingsfor them selves your willingness to teach is of the best sort.
About the "Carving Chisels, one more thing I need to buy" comment. My philosophy is: "It's impossible to have too many tools, too much work/storage space or too much money to afford it all".
Put a flat stick on the flat side of the blade. At either end. (A winding stick). Perpendicular to the blade. Sight down the blade to see if the sticks are on the same plane. You may have to bend the saw blade to saw straight and true.
Bel lavoro! Anch'io avevo costruito una sega a telaio Roubo usando una lama da sega a nastro, con sistema di tensione a vite, ma con scarsi risultati... la ragione è che la lama della sega a nastro è troppo flessibile per questo tipo di sega e non si riesce ad effettuare un taglio preciso. Purtroppo su Internet c'è pochissima letteratura su questo tipo di sega per stavolare, che ho lungamente cercato, fin quando ho trovato un signore che me ne ha regalate due, molto antiche, e ho potuto capire perfettamente come sono fatte. La lama è spessa (2 mm e più) e rigida. I denti sono larghi e hanno la forma che ricorda quella d'un onda del mare. Sono affilati nella parte concava e superiore, alternativamente da un lato e dall'altro. Il telaio è in pioppo o in abete, l'importante è che sia d'un legno leggero. E va usata al contrario di come la vedo nel video, cioè tagli spingendo e non tirando. Spero d'aver dato consigli utili, Saluti
Grazie degli ottimi consigli. Prima o poi vorrei rifarne una versione migliorata. Magari partendo da una striscia di acciaio per ricavarne una lama più spessa, come giustamente suggerisci. Non ho ben capito però cosa intendi quando dici che i denti sono affilati alternativamente a destra e a sinistra. Visto che la funzione è quella di tagliare lungo vena io farei un'affilatura fatta "a scalpello" e denti stradati alternativamente a destra e sinistra, no?
@@WhyDontYouBuildit Allora... bisognerebbe che ti mandassi una foto della lama, varrebbe più di tante parole, ma non so come fare... Immagina che ciascun dente abbia la forma di un onda simile a quella della "Grande Onda di Kanagawa" di Hokusaki... è un paragone un po' così, ma è per capirci.. i denti vanno affilati nella parte concava (la "gola dell'onda"), ponendo la lima tonda inclinata da un lato per un dente, e dall'altro lato per il dente succesivo, alternativamente. E poi si affila anche la parte alta del dente (la "cresta dell'onda"), sempre alternando il lato su cui si lima. Ripeto, forse con un immagine si capisce subito. L'idea di farti la lama con una lastra d'acciaio è una bella idea, anche io ci avevo pensato, ma l'acciaio giusto è difficile da trovare.... e anche una volta che l'hai trovato, costa un bel po', a meno che tu non abbia la fortuna di trovarne uno scarto. Ho trovato che vendevano minimo 5 m di lastra larga 8 cm a 100 euro... Insomma, è una bella sfida riuscire a costruirsi una sega di Roubo '^o^ Però puoi provare a cercare un'azienda che produca o venda acciai e chiedere se hanno uno scarto di 1 metro o 2... oppure trovare una sega di Roubo autentica, ma non è un'impresa facile. Per vedere come erano fatte e come stavolavano i tronchi, visto che in italiano non si trova niente di niente, cerca in francese: "scie des scieurs de long".
If you use a push stroke the lead edge is facing you not behind on the other side of the long and it’s easier to follow a line. Also using a broad head hatchet and hewing one side for a keeping plane makes this a completely different experience.
I don't remember exactly, probably about 30 minutes. But Being by myself I had to check both sides and take a breath often. Also bear in mind that this is pine. Recently I milled some oak, about the same size, maybe a touch bigger, and it took me much much longer. If you ask me I'd say that it's worth the experience, even just to appreciate the amount of work behind how things were made in the past. But if you just need your logs milled I'm not sure if it's the best way. It really depends on you. If you decide to give it a try anyway let me know how it was!
Yes. The main reason being that it was free. For the guy that sharpens bandsaw blades that length is basically useless, so I can have replacement blades without spending money and avoid them to go to waste.
I used a piece of bandsaw blade. That's the reason why it was so cheap. But that's also the reason why the blade is flimsy and it doesn't cut as straight as it should.
@@WhyDontYouBuildit OK. Just thought you knew where to purchase, I thinks it 2 inch band saw blades...awesome carving on the handle ends...give you 5 stars on this project...thanks guy...
I believe the best way is to belt clamp it on to something really solid, like a tree stump. Easy enough if you are in the woods, otherwise not so much.
It depends on how much of the wood you care about. There's a tool called a log dog thats basically just a length of rebar with a one inch spike on each end, like a giant staple. You can spike to a bigger log to keep it from moving. Me, I would probably find a way to secure it with ratcheting load straps, or a chain binder.
A mio avviso devi curare di più l'affilatura degli utensili e soprattutto fare attenzione a non tenere la mano sinistra davanti allo scalpello, se ti scappa è molto pericoloso! Bel lavoro comunque, bravo!
Si, sicuramente gli scalpelli potevano essere più affilati. Ma devo dire che io con l'abete, anche appena affilati e testati "a pelo", tagliando perpendicolare alla fibra e abbondante non ho mai un taglio pulito. L'unica volta è stato quando l'ho fatto su su un morale che era stato ad inzupparsi sotto la pioggia per qualche giorno. Ma non so se valga la pena, soprattutto quando è una mortasa e non si vede nemmeno. C'è qualche trucco che posso usare?
@@WhyDontYouBuildit con quel sistema di affilatura puoi ottenere buoni risultati arrivando a grane molto fini (2000 e oltre) possibilmente con l'ausilio di una guida e fissando bene i fogli. Cerca di spianare anche il dorso per i primi centimetri in prossimità del tagliente. L'abete di testa è infido ma è proprio tagliandolo pulito senza schiacciare le fibre che capisci se una lama è ben affilata.
@@leog3062 Va detto anche che quegli scalpelli sono gli scalpelli lidl, che per quello che costano secondo me sono ottimi, ma sono pur sempre scalpelli lidl. Appena affilati tagliano anche bene, ma fanno presto a perdere il filo. In questo caso devo dire che non me ne sono neanche preoccupato troppo. La mortasa qui lavora veramente poco e non si vede. Grazie dei consigli comunque 😉
hello! I need to buy blades to make a saw like this but I can't find them in Brazil. Where do you make or buy your blades? What is the store address so I can order the size I want? please I need help with this
I used a piece of bandsaw. It kinda works, but I think a thicker and more rigid one would be better. I unfortunately don't have any idea where you can find one in Brazil.
Consulte os detalhes 217 / 5.000 Resultados de tradução Resultado da tradução The Little Floresta channel said that I usually find it in German stores, but in the United States you can also find it, but I have no idea how to buy it there. If I can't, I'll try to make it with commercial door springs.@@WhyDontYouBuildit
a longer stroke with the saw might make things much easier
Thanks for the detailed metalwork too...
Great job!!! When you get use to it and feel more comfortable using the longer strokes, it will serve you well.
Nothing is better than a nice saw!
You're absolutely right!
when i watch things like people making things for themselves I long for the day when I wasn't even born yet. nostalgic for a time when I wasn't even a twinkle in my mother's eye. love for a day I didn't exist in. sometimes it hurts me deeply to watch. i morn for a future downfall I can see coming a long way off. ever watch a dream die?
Love the haptic approach! I do the same! Everyone who don't understands...well....works different.
Hello, the job was very well done! I'm really considering improving this type of frame saw because it has potential. I believe that the sliding saw blade holders should be additionally tightened with screws. Then the saw blade would be very rigidly mounted in the frame. His jumping up and down seems to confirm my point. Of course, its length influences this phenomenon. The analysis of the functioning of typical frame saws leads me to believe that the description and the validity of the mentioned improvement are correct.
To sum up, the easiest way would be to install the second saw blade tension on the opposite side. Moreover, the frame for such a long saw seems to be too stiff.
Congratulations and best regards 😀.
Thank you for the like 😀.
Using that saw seems really satisfying and effortless
Good job
I don't remember it being effortless, but it surely was a funny dive into another era. Thank you!
Great Job! Please be careful pushing a chisel towards a body part. In 40 years of woodworking, a wood chisel is the only tool that ever sent me to the emergency room.
Thank you
Great video, thanks for sharing. I 'm also turning some beech log into lumber with hand tool, mainly for making planes and tool handle. I usually split the log in half fist then go from there, because splitting review the grain( twist and bend) and I can make my plane tool handle accordingly to have less run out. I think if you use the saw on push stroke and lay the log horizontal while sawing vertical( like pit saw) it might help to stay on the line.
Thanks for the advice. I will try next time.
These saws seem to cut better on the push stroke, rocking your weight forward when pushing the saw; this helps you get a longer stroke and use more of the blade too. You are using mostly your arms and it will get very tiring that way, and it's not efficient; you have a saw about 1m long and youre not using half the blade. The blade may be why you used it on the pull stroke mostly, a bandsaw blade usually has a positive rake on the tooth (the tooth leans forward) this makes it very aggressive and hard to use, itll want to "stick" in the wood becasue the tooth is so aggressive. When you sharpen the saw, file away some of the rake at the front of the tooth, aim to file 0⁰ of rake into the teeth (the front of the teeth should be straight up and down, 90⁰ to the toothline, not with the tooth leaning forward) this will make the saw easier to use and it wont want to "grab" as much 😁
If your saw "sticks" or "stops" at the same point on the toothline everytime, it means your blade needs to be "jointed"; there is a tooth that is higher than the teeth in front of it and when that taller tooth hits the wood the saw stops. To fix this you'll need to use a flat file and run it along the tips of the teeth to make them all straight and the same height. File until you see a flat spot on the tip of every tooth, it's normal if some teeth have a bigger flat spot; these are the teeth that were too tall. Then you'll need to sharpen it with a large saw file, taking half of the flat spot on each tooth away before you move to the next gullet........ the file will cut the back of one tooth and the front of another tooth at the same time, so it's important that you only take half the flat spot away before you move to the next gullet; this will keep the teeth the same height. Moving left to right, from back to front of the blade, keep the left side of your file vertical so you get your 0⁰ of rake on the tooth and file the tooth who's face (front cutting edge that faces forward) is set away from you (this might not be the first tooth) skip one tooth so the next tooth face is still set away from you. When you have got to the toe of the blade flip it around and work from right to left, always from the back of the blade towards the front, this time the right side of the file will be vertical to create your 0⁰ rake and file every tooth you skipped last time (every second tooth) the set should still be leaning away from you...... the file cuts better on the front of the tooth that leans away from you, filing a tooth that leans toward you will "chatter" and the front of the tooth that does the cutting wont be as good.
It's not hard to file a saw, but it is daunting if you've never done it before. If this is the case; go online or to somewhere that sells old tools, buy the cheapest old saw you can find and learn to file that before you move on to a saw that you intend to use. It's easier than it seems, it seems nearly "scary" if you've never done it before..... but trust me; it is easier than you think to sharpen saws 😁
Wow, this is a very informative comment. I'm planning to build another saw with a much stiffer blade and I will surely be sharpening it following your suggestions.
It might take a while till I find the time though...
Something tells me that this type of saw can cut equally on push or pull, but it depends entirely on how you're using it. I.e. pushing against the tops of the fibers or with the fibers. Pushing in most bench configurations will result in a better push stroke.
I'm planning on building one to be more of a pull stroke because in general your pull muscles are stronger and more built for endurance. I also train on the trowing machine, so I want to translate that movement into efficient sawing.
Tenho uma serra dessa muito antiga, pode ser trabalhada em duas pessoas. Parabéns pelo vídeo. Brasil
Good job, thank you for comment 😀.
Cool, as i am bringing home some nice peaces from forest, i was looking for way to use it not only as fire wood. This looks like it
Keep going good job
mi ha sempre attirato questo tipo di sega. non sembra difficile da usare. vedo più difficoltoso bloccare per bene il pezzo. ottimo lavoro!
Grazie!
Questa è la prima e l'unica che io abbia mai usato, quindi non sono affatto esperto.
L'idea che mi sono fatto però è che per fare le tavole dai tronchi se non si è in due persone non è il massimo.
Il prossimo esperimento per segare i tronchi è costruire una sega di quelle che usavano una volta i giapponesi (前挽大鋸) che si usa da soli e mi sembra efficace, anche se probabilmente molto stancante.
Per dividere le tavole invece una sega così penso vada bene, solo che quella che ho fatto io è troppo grande. Dovrei rifare i due listelli orizzontali così da renderla più maneggevole.
That is literally one of my next projects! I want to make my Framesaw out of Hardwood.
P.S. I think your Saw dont perform as well because you have to tension the Blade was more. James wright has made a good Video About this type of saws.
Many Greetings
Oh, and you usually push the saw to cut instead of pulling them
love the saw.
my shed is been neglected for some time now there are repairs needed and some improovment needed as well . when winter is all but gone ill will get sarted again ,i fully intend to begain some projects the saw is high in my list, you are a wonderful man for building it and recording the build thank you for that. i am watching more of your recordings and will be from here forth phunny how informitive your videos are with out you ever speaking a word. keep up the good work you aver goodman for this, poeple should know how todo thingsfor them selves your willingness to teach is of the best sort.
About the "Carving Chisels, one more thing I need to buy" comment. My philosophy is: "It's impossible to have too many tools, too much work/storage space or too much money to afford it all".
very nie work
thank you
Good job.
Put a flat stick on the flat side of the blade. At either end.
(A winding stick). Perpendicular to the blade.
Sight down the blade to see if the sticks are on the same plane.
You may have to bend the saw blade to saw straight and true.
Bel lavoro! Anch'io avevo costruito una sega a telaio Roubo usando una lama da sega a nastro, con sistema di tensione a vite, ma con scarsi risultati... la ragione è che la lama della sega a nastro è troppo flessibile per questo tipo di sega e non si riesce ad effettuare un taglio preciso. Purtroppo su Internet c'è pochissima letteratura su questo tipo di sega per stavolare, che ho lungamente cercato, fin quando ho trovato un signore che me ne ha regalate due, molto antiche, e ho potuto capire perfettamente come sono fatte. La lama è spessa (2 mm e più) e rigida. I denti sono larghi e hanno la forma che ricorda quella d'un onda del mare. Sono affilati nella parte concava e superiore, alternativamente da un lato e dall'altro. Il telaio è in pioppo o in abete, l'importante è che sia d'un legno leggero. E va usata al contrario di come la vedo nel video, cioè tagli spingendo e non tirando.
Spero d'aver dato consigli utili,
Saluti
Grazie degli ottimi consigli. Prima o poi vorrei rifarne una versione migliorata. Magari partendo da una striscia di acciaio per ricavarne una lama più spessa, come giustamente suggerisci.
Non ho ben capito però cosa intendi quando dici che i denti sono affilati alternativamente a destra e a sinistra. Visto che la funzione è quella di tagliare lungo vena io farei un'affilatura fatta "a scalpello" e denti stradati alternativamente a destra e sinistra, no?
@@WhyDontYouBuildit Allora... bisognerebbe che ti mandassi una foto della lama, varrebbe più di tante parole, ma non so come fare... Immagina che ciascun dente abbia la forma di un onda simile a quella della "Grande Onda di Kanagawa" di Hokusaki... è un paragone un po' così, ma è per capirci.. i denti vanno affilati nella parte concava (la "gola dell'onda"), ponendo la lima tonda inclinata da un lato per un dente, e dall'altro lato per il dente succesivo, alternativamente. E poi si affila anche la parte alta del dente (la "cresta dell'onda"), sempre alternando il lato su cui si lima. Ripeto, forse con un immagine si capisce subito.
L'idea di farti la lama con una lastra d'acciaio è una bella idea, anche io ci avevo pensato, ma l'acciaio giusto è difficile da trovare.... e anche una volta che l'hai trovato, costa un bel po', a meno che tu non abbia la fortuna di trovarne uno scarto. Ho trovato che vendevano minimo 5 m di lastra larga 8 cm a 100 euro... Insomma, è una bella sfida riuscire a costruirsi una sega di Roubo '^o^
Però puoi provare a cercare un'azienda che produca o venda acciai e chiedere se hanno uno scarto di 1 metro o 2... oppure trovare una sega di Roubo autentica, ma non è un'impresa facile. Per vedere come erano fatte e come stavolavano i tronchi, visto che in italiano non si trova niente di niente, cerca in francese: "scie des scieurs de long".
If you use a push stroke the lead edge is facing you not behind on the other side of the long and it’s easier to follow a line. Also using a broad head hatchet and hewing one side for a keeping plane makes this a completely different experience.
I will try to do it this way next time, thanks
That's a very blunt chisel as it's a soft wood
I found spruce wood harder to work with than many hardwoods. Cutting the long and sturdy fibers is not easy. The chisel should have been sharper tough
С начала Ты шлифуешь наждачной бумагой, а потом дорабатываешь стамеской... Абразивные частицы затупили режущую кромку, вот твои стамески и не режут
How long did it take you to get through that log? I have two much larger White Oak logs and am considering building a frame saw to mill them.
I don't remember exactly, probably about 30 minutes. But Being by myself I had to check both sides and take a breath often. Also bear in mind that this is pine. Recently I milled some oak, about the same size, maybe a touch bigger, and it took me much much longer. If you ask me I'd say that it's worth the experience, even just to appreciate the amount of work behind how things were made in the past. But if you just need your logs milled I'm not sure if it's the best way. It really depends on you. If you decide to give it a try anyway let me know how it was!
Did you use a bandsaw blade?
Yes. The main reason being that it was free. For the guy that sharpens bandsaw blades that length is basically useless, so I can have replacement blades without spending money and avoid them to go to waste.
inspiring but where did you find a blade less than 10€? (about 130 just for the blade here)
I used a piece of bandsaw blade. That's the reason why it was so cheap. But that's also the reason why the blade is flimsy and it doesn't cut as straight as it should.
@@WhyDontYouBuildit yep, and turns out nobody even has blades to sell.
Thats a reall great job. How long is the saw that u used?
Sorry for the late reply. The saw is about 1m long
@@WhyDontYouBuildit Thank you
It was painful to watch you using a dull chisel. Sorry. Thanks for posting and for walking us through this video.
Pain is definitely one of the the main elements of my videos 😅. I surely need to keep my tools sharper. Thanks for watching.
Where did you get this blade , and the size please
@@louistodd4857 It's a piece of bandsaw blade. I don't know the exact lenght, I made it fit the size of wood I had for the frame.
@@WhyDontYouBuildit OK. Just thought you knew where to purchase, I thinks it 2 inch band saw blades...awesome carving on the handle ends...give you 5 stars on this project...thanks guy...
if you find a good way to hold the log, please share
If I had the space, I would probably build a big twin screw vise, like this: upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/0/0b/Veneer_sawing_001.png
I believe the best way is to belt clamp it on to something really solid, like a tree stump. Easy enough if you are in the woods, otherwise not so much.
It depends on how much of the wood you care about. There's a tool called a log dog thats basically just a length of rebar with a one inch spike on each end, like a giant staple. You can spike to a bigger log to keep it from moving. Me, I would probably find a way to secure it with ratcheting load straps, or a chain binder.
A mio avviso devi curare di più l'affilatura degli utensili e soprattutto fare attenzione a non tenere la mano sinistra davanti allo scalpello, se ti scappa è molto pericoloso!
Bel lavoro comunque, bravo!
Si, sicuramente gli scalpelli potevano essere più affilati. Ma devo dire che io con l'abete, anche appena affilati e testati "a pelo", tagliando perpendicolare alla fibra e abbondante non ho mai un taglio pulito. L'unica volta è stato quando l'ho fatto su su un morale che era stato ad inzupparsi sotto la pioggia per qualche giorno. Ma non so se valga la pena, soprattutto quando è una mortasa e non si vede nemmeno. C'è qualche trucco che posso usare?
@@WhyDontYouBuildit Cosa usi per affilare?
@@leog3062 Carta abrasiva su piano di vetro o marmo. Con l'intenzione di comprare delle pietre diamantate prima o poi.
@@WhyDontYouBuildit con quel sistema di affilatura puoi ottenere buoni risultati arrivando a grane molto fini (2000 e oltre) possibilmente con l'ausilio di una guida e fissando bene i fogli. Cerca di spianare anche il dorso per i primi centimetri in prossimità del tagliente.
L'abete di testa è infido ma è proprio tagliandolo pulito senza schiacciare le fibre che capisci se una lama è ben affilata.
@@leog3062 Va detto anche che quegli scalpelli sono gli scalpelli lidl, che per quello che costano secondo me sono ottimi, ma sono pur sempre scalpelli lidl. Appena affilati tagliano anche bene, ma fanno presto a perdere il filo. In questo caso devo dire che non me ne sono neanche preoccupato troppo. La mortasa qui lavora veramente poco e non si vede. Grazie dei consigli comunque 😉
hello! I need to buy blades to make a saw like this but I can't find them in Brazil.
Where do you make or buy your blades? What is the store address so I can order the size I want?
please I need help with this
I used a piece of bandsaw. It kinda works, but I think a thicker and more rigid one would be better. I unfortunately don't have any idea where you can find one in Brazil.
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The Little Floresta channel said that I usually find it in German stores, but in the United States you can also find it, but I have no idea how to buy it there. If I can't, I'll try to make it with commercial door springs.@@WhyDontYouBuildit