Hi. I have an almost identical lathe. Id like to point out that you should advance your compound so all of the bearing surfaces are touching and then lock it out for maximum rigidity . For parting, The tool should be slightly above center. There are many adjustments you can optimize. The tailstock lock can be adjusted to lock better. Check under the tailstock.
The specified oil is only available in 55 gallon drums. There is a vendor who was selling it by the quart and by the gallon containers, but he wanted a premium for it.
There are two lifting points on each end of the late one under the tail stock where you see the holes with a cover over them the other one is under the head stock on the far left same thing pull off covers put in a lifting bar and make your lift. Sometimes lifting from the bed may ,could wreak the lathe bed.
I discovered these covered holes' purpose shortly after getting the lathe on the ground! Haha, maybe if there's a next time I can take advantage of those lifting holes...
Uncrated and set mine up today. Just finished the spindle break in. Time to change fluids in the morning and get started cutting. Luckily no damages. Just some screws fell out of the panel behind the foot stop. The DRO is gonna take some learning.
@secboetrtsoleable No real easy way, it does make a mess. I found a nice funnel and held it close to the case drain. You'll have to remove the gears to get access.
This is a big glass grinding machine with flat pulleys. I've seen my fair share of crowned pulleys. This was flat. The guy had several other machines and had some new pulleys to show before doing this. I don't know the logic behind a flat pulley, but I copied what was there. Seems to work just fine.
Nice video, and nice review. That's a 13" x 40" lathe though. I have its 14" brother (G0709), but had to buy/install a DRO on my own. James Greene has been using that same lathe for a long time now, for gunsmith work. He swears by the lathe. I went with the 14" unit because the spindle bearings were of slightly higher quality--but overall I'm sure I would be been very happy with the lathe you have as well. I think they both have the same motor as I recall, and of course both have 40" long beds. Incidentally, Grizzly now sells the (14x40") G0824 model, which is an upgraded version of the G0709 lathe that I bought--but they weren't in stock when I bought my lathe, and those still require (potentially) more gear changes. The spindle bearings in the new G0824 model are quite pricey though--like $600ish for the pair, as I recall. Other than that, I think the three lathes are very close in capability and a person can do great work with all of them I'm sure.
Oh, on the mill question... If you were to get one of the Taiwanese mills from PM, it would likely be of higher quality than the ones Grizzly sells. I've never tried Matt's mills, but I did have a 1440TL series lathe, which was made in Taiwan and essentially on-par with the new South Bend stuff (I bet they are each made in the same factory, to be honest). So the comparison then would be the South Bend mills, which are likely made in Taiwan, and PM's Taiwanese mills. I think that you'd get a better price from PM. But if you're talking Chinese mill (PM) to Chinese mill (Grizzly), then it's probably six of one and a half-dozen of the other. So it will likely come down to price and your experience in dealing with each company. That said, remember that these "Gunsmith" lathes we're talking about (G0776, G0709, G0824, etc) are marketed as a step above the normal Grizzly lathes. As such, I'm not sure that their mills are of this same "Gunsmith" added quality...if that truly is a thing. So that might be something to consider. I've dealt with John at PM, and he's a GREAT guy to deal with--super knowledgeable, and gets back to you when he says he will. And the customer service with both companies is great, IMHO. So I guess it really just comes down to your budget, the shipping, and (largely) the availability. Matt's Taiwanese mills are sometimes hard to get, but I haven't checked lately. Grizzly, being a larger company, might be able to offer more inventory. I think if I were to buy a new lathe/mill combination right now, it would be a pair of Taiwanese machines from either company--although Matt's Taiwanese machines are likely going to be slightly less expensive than the South Bend units from Grizzly. I haven't priced the PM stuff lately, but a pair of South Bend machines (13" lathe and a 9x42" mill) would be about $31K. I think you could do much better than that from Matt, going with his 1440GT Taiwanese lathe, and one of his Taiwanese mills. In order to do that from Grizzly, you'd need to spend another $8k or so, because to get a Taiwanese lathe from them you'd need to go with the full South Bend unit--whereas with Matt, he has a line of Taiwanese lathes in the "mid" level price point, and then offers his high-end TL-series lathes on top of that. It's unfortunate that Grizzly doesn't offer their Taiwanese machines in a size that's less than the 3000+ pound units, but I get it--that's where their Chinese machines live.
You should level the lathe even without the feet using shims, not being level could cause some of that chatter. long stringy chips are not Slick/cool, they are dangerous, your chips should be breaking of at about an inch long. Level length ways does not matter(think of a lathe on a ship) the most important is front to back at either end to take out any twist that otherwise will make you turn tapers.
the oil is drained from the transmit ion gear box is a shipping thing. for safety required to drain the oil for shipping apparently drain oil means that they drain some oil some ware to make the inspector happy. mine came the same way.
... great thing you are learning ... at this point, for a beginner a Machinist Handbook will teach you a great deal the RIGHT way from the get-go ... you may scorn at this, but you'd be very, very wrong ... be well ...
The only thing I find wrong with the crate, as it looks fine, is that there were only two metal straps per edge. I would have expected at least three and possibly four. Otherwise, a lot of trucking companies aren’t as careful as they should be. If a side separates slightly, it’s usually not a real problem. But if there’s a smashed in section, then you have to hope the product isn’t close to the side of the crate. I have several Grizzly machines and they’re usually well crated. I’m sure you will enjoy it. I have three DROs from a company called TUAUTO. Pretty good and reliable. This one is likely made by the same company. No reason to replace it unless you want one with a touch screen.
Keep in mind that the scales that come with mist all DROs as standard are 5um. That gives a minimum accurate reading on the DRO of 0.0002” there is no reason to use the five digit reading past the decimal point. That last digit has no real relation to anything being measured. If it really means anything, you might be able to replace the scales with 1um scales which will read to about 0.00004”. Moly D is molybdenum disulfide which is used for high pressure. ISO 32 is thin and is what you should use for spindles. The fill amount is very important? That’s critical. If you have too much oil, it can cause problems.
There was an option to pay for a lift gate service. That would at least get it to the ground safely. You would then have to deal with the heavy pallet.
I called a local company that dealt with big trucks and deliveries daily. They let me ship the lathe there, where they loaded it on my trailer for me. Check to see if there is a place like that local to you.
The hole/slot in the tail stock where the washer bent is really too big for a washer, given the size of the bolt. There's too much washer not touching anything on the one side, but getting pressure from the nut on other. From what it looked like to me, there was very little of that washer actually making contact with the casing. Even the washer you replaced it with will eventually have the same problem. The pressure from the nut is applied to the inner part of the washer, while the pressure from the casing to the outer part. pressure from the casing \/\/ \/\/ ========================
For a Chinese machine it looks to be pretty good quality. Probably paid quite a bit of a premium getting it throught Grizzly over buying directly from AliExpress, but with an expensive machine it is worth having a brand setting a certain quality standard. PS. Z axis is always vertical.
Very true. The warranty is also pretty good through grizzly, definitely worth a little bit there, plus dealing with a company stateside has its pros. Thanks
Never had a piece of machinery with a latch like that. Sorry for the struggle, lol. First time for everything. We go our whole lives learning new things.
Hi. I have an almost identical lathe. Id like to point out that you should advance your compound so all of the bearing surfaces are touching and then lock it out for maximum rigidity .
For parting, The tool should be slightly above center.
There are many adjustments you can optimize. The tailstock lock can be adjusted to lock better. Check under the tailstock.
Thanks! I'll check that out
That drive pulley, if used with flat belts, should have a crown on it to help center the belt.
Yes, flattening it like that it will come off the minute its starts if not perfectly aligned
The specified oil is only available in 55 gallon drums. There is a vendor who was selling it by the quart and by the gallon containers, but he wanted a premium for it.
There are two lifting points on each end of the late one under the tail stock where you see the holes with a cover over them the other one is under the head stock on the far left same thing pull off covers put in a lifting bar and make your lift. Sometimes lifting from the bed may ,could wreak the lathe bed.
I discovered these covered holes' purpose shortly after getting the lathe on the ground! Haha, maybe if there's a next time I can take advantage of those lifting holes...
Ya page 22 on your manual tells you how to do the lift
Thanks nice video. Still happy with the lathe. Thinking of buying one myself.
Thanks. Yes, it's been a great lathe thus far.
Uncrated and set mine up today. Just finished the spindle break in. Time to change fluids in the morning and get started cutting. Luckily no damages. Just some screws fell out of the panel behind the foot stop. The DRO is gonna take some learning.
Nice. Seems to be a great lathe.
@@marktolman6037 What have you found to be the easiest way to drain the oil with the plug being right behind the gear and on a vertical surface?
@secboetrtsoleable No real easy way, it does make a mess. I found a nice funnel and held it close to the case drain. You'll have to remove the gears to get access.
I've always used a 5/8" plate with a lifting eye that slides in from under the Y axis. Also, remove your chuck before you lift just for safety.
I’m a machinist and I’ve found indicating like u did for a center is a good way
Nice! At least I'm on the right track. I still have a lot to learn.
Check that hight on the parting tool.
I have no input or advice. But I’m jealous as H E double hockey sticks. Good luck to you.
Thank you very much
Some "flat" drive pulleys have a crown or are higher in the centre to bias the flat drive belt from running off either side.😅
This is a big glass grinding machine with flat pulleys. I've seen my fair share of crowned pulleys. This was flat. The guy had several other machines and had some new pulleys to show before doing this. I don't know the logic behind a flat pulley, but I copied what was there. Seems to work just fine.
Try parting with the tool upside down and lathe in reverse, that will let the chips fall out and may be faster RPM. I almost always part with coolant.
You should change the X axis readout to diameter instead of radius!
I'll read how to do that....
Nice video, and nice review. That's a 13" x 40" lathe though. I have its 14" brother (G0709), but had to buy/install a DRO on my own. James Greene has been using that same lathe for a long time now, for gunsmith work. He swears by the lathe. I went with the 14" unit because the spindle bearings were of slightly higher quality--but overall I'm sure I would be been very happy with the lathe you have as well. I think they both have the same motor as I recall, and of course both have 40" long beds. Incidentally, Grizzly now sells the (14x40") G0824 model, which is an upgraded version of the G0709 lathe that I bought--but they weren't in stock when I bought my lathe, and those still require (potentially) more gear changes. The spindle bearings in the new G0824 model are quite pricey though--like $600ish for the pair, as I recall. Other than that, I think the three lathes are very close in capability and a person can do great work with all of them I'm sure.
Oh, on the mill question... If you were to get one of the Taiwanese mills from PM, it would likely be of higher quality than the ones Grizzly sells. I've never tried Matt's mills, but I did have a 1440TL series lathe, which was made in Taiwan and essentially on-par with the new South Bend stuff (I bet they are each made in the same factory, to be honest). So the comparison then would be the South Bend mills, which are likely made in Taiwan, and PM's Taiwanese mills. I think that you'd get a better price from PM. But if you're talking Chinese mill (PM) to Chinese mill (Grizzly), then it's probably six of one and a half-dozen of the other. So it will likely come down to price and your experience in dealing with each company.
That said, remember that these "Gunsmith" lathes we're talking about (G0776, G0709, G0824, etc) are marketed as a step above the normal Grizzly lathes. As such, I'm not sure that their mills are of this same "Gunsmith" added quality...if that truly is a thing. So that might be something to consider. I've dealt with John at PM, and he's a GREAT guy to deal with--super knowledgeable, and gets back to you when he says he will. And the customer service with both companies is great, IMHO. So I guess it really just comes down to your budget, the shipping, and (largely) the availability. Matt's Taiwanese mills are sometimes hard to get, but I haven't checked lately. Grizzly, being a larger company, might be able to offer more inventory.
I think if I were to buy a new lathe/mill combination right now, it would be a pair of Taiwanese machines from either company--although Matt's Taiwanese machines are likely going to be slightly less expensive than the South Bend units from Grizzly. I haven't priced the PM stuff lately, but a pair of South Bend machines (13" lathe and a 9x42" mill) would be about $31K. I think you could do much better than that from Matt, going with his 1440GT Taiwanese lathe, and one of his Taiwanese mills. In order to do that from Grizzly, you'd need to spend another $8k or so, because to get a Taiwanese lathe from them you'd need to go with the full South Bend unit--whereas with Matt, he has a line of Taiwanese lathes in the "mid" level price point, and then offers his high-end TL-series lathes on top of that. It's unfortunate that Grizzly doesn't offer their Taiwanese machines in a size that's less than the 3000+ pound units, but I get it--that's where their Chinese machines live.
You should level the lathe even without the feet using shims, not being level could cause some of that chatter. long stringy chips are not Slick/cool, they are dangerous, your chips should be breaking of at about an inch long. Level length ways does not matter(think of a lathe on a ship) the most important is front to back at either end to take out any twist that otherwise will make you turn tapers.
Thank you
the oil is drained from the transmit ion gear box is a shipping thing. for safety required to drain the oil for shipping apparently drain oil means that they drain some oil some ware to make the inspector happy. mine came the same way.
... great thing you are learning ... at this point, for a beginner a Machinist Handbook will teach you a great deal the RIGHT way from the get-go ... you may scorn at this, but you'd be very, very wrong ... be well ...
I recently bought one, lot of good stuff
The only thing I find wrong with the crate, as it looks fine, is that there were only two metal straps per edge. I would have expected at least three and possibly four. Otherwise, a lot of trucking companies aren’t as careful as they should be. If a side separates slightly, it’s usually not a real problem. But if there’s a smashed in section, then you have to hope the product isn’t close to the side of the crate. I have several Grizzly machines and they’re usually well crated. I’m sure you will enjoy it. I have three DROs from a company called TUAUTO. Pretty good and reliable. This one is likely made by the same company. No reason to replace it unless you want one with a touch screen.
The box condition had me worried, I'm glad there were no issues underneath the packaging. It's been a very nice tool in the shop to date.
nice machine sir good i suggest you buy dmg mori seiki worlds best lathe machine!
Keep in mind that the scales that come with mist all DROs as standard are 5um. That gives a minimum accurate reading on the DRO of 0.0002” there is no reason to use the five digit reading past the decimal point. That last digit has no real relation to anything being measured. If it really means anything, you might be able to replace the scales with 1um scales which will read to about 0.00004”. Moly D is molybdenum disulfide which is used for high pressure. ISO 32 is thin and is what you should use for spindles. The fill amount is very important? That’s critical. If you have too much oil, it can cause problems.
Thanks!
Any idea how I’d have this delivered to a residential address if I don’t have a forklift ?
There was an option to pay for a lift gate service. That would at least get it to the ground safely. You would then have to deal with the heavy pallet.
@@marktolman6037damn, currently it says lift gate not available.
I called a local company that dealt with big trucks and deliveries daily. They let me ship the lathe there, where they loaded it on my trailer for me. Check to see if there is a place like that local to you.
You could rent a fork lift for a few hundred a day. check with the neighbors, my old neighbor had front loader on his tractor.
The hole/slot in the tail stock where the washer bent is really too big for a washer, given the size of the bolt. There's too much washer not touching anything on the one side, but getting pressure from the nut on other. From what it looked like to me, there was very little of that washer actually making contact with the casing. Even the washer you replaced it with will eventually have the same problem. The pressure from the nut is applied to the inner part of the washer, while the pressure from the casing to the outer part.
pressure from the casing
\/\/ \/\/
========================
Thanks. It's been a great machine to date
For a Chinese machine it looks to be pretty good quality. Probably paid quite a bit of a premium getting it throught Grizzly over buying directly from AliExpress, but with an expensive machine it is worth having a brand setting a certain quality standard. PS. Z axis is always vertical.
Very true. The warranty is also pretty good through grizzly, definitely worth a little bit there, plus dealing with a company stateside has its pros. Thanks
I thought Z was up down aka height and there for your bed movement would be Y
@@hybridracers on a lathe, the z is side to side travel on the bed. It is different on a milling machine.
That pully is going to toss the belt with out a crown
@snicks50 it's a flat sanding belt, been in service ever since I've repaired the pulley. Works great
@@marktolman6037 Oh nice. Its odd it should have a crown
It is a weird setup...it doesn't seem like it should work but it does quite well haha
They should have shipped it in 3 boxes. WTF
It's not the same you need to get ISO 68 and 32 non-detergent standard hydraulic has detergent in it
@edclancy5127 good to know, thanks
Excel acer grizzly I’m sure there’s more , good pieces .
Once he had troubles opening the side door I stopped viewing.
Never had a piece of machinery with a latch like that. Sorry for the struggle, lol. First time for everything. We go our whole lives learning new things.
rod slip on chuck sir you need better chuck
In the works