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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 26 ก.ย. 2024
- When learning how to sharpen a chainsaw these 3 myths are often followed. I save you some time and get you a sharper chain on your saw if you follow these chainsaw sharpening tips.
Chainsaw and Wood Splitting website: sawsandsplitter...
www.amazon.com/shop/ctscaper
What are the advantages of a skip tooth verses a full chisel??
For most of your life, you've been trying to master sharpening a chainsaw? That's what I call dedication.
We all need a hobby. :-)
Once you get proficient at hand filing (I worked as a logger for a number of years), you will use roughly the same number of strokes on each side. If you need to take a different number of strokes on each side to remove the same amount of metal, that is an indication that you have not yet learned proper filing technique. I try to clamp my saw in a vise to sharpen it if possible. Then you can file one side of the chain, move to the other side of the saw and sharpen the other. I use my strong (right) hand to hold the file handle and my weak had to hold the file tip. I never use a file guide. I use the Stihl angle check tool to check angles, but I file by hand. And it helps to rotate the file away from the tooth which helps keep the file from riding up the tooth and losing the angle on the tooth top cutting surface. If you are in the woods and have no vise handy, cut a couple inches into a stump and use that as a vise.
Great tips LTV! Thank you.
Totally agree.
And people can now buy a trunk/stump vise , a handy gadget .
@@jimbanda True, but one more gadget to carry around. A shallow cut into a stump is always available with nothing to buy or carry.
In your opinion if you hit something let's say a piece of metal one side of the chain is smaller the tooth than the other side of the chain tooth do you believe that will cause problems or no is it okay if one side tooth is bigger than the other side tooth if that makes sense thank you
Always put mark on chain to see where you started never drag the file backwards on the chain.
Acually you can drag back as long as there is no pressure on the tooth look up Buckin on yt
One professional tree cutter told me that unequal length cutters have no effect on how the chain cuts, and others have said that unequal cutter length will definitely affect how the chain cuts. Not sure what to believe, but the professional probably uses his chainsaw nearly every day, and sees the results of his hand sharpening techniques immediately, so I would be more likely to believe what he said. He said he also files at a slight upward angle (from the inside to the outside of a cutter), rather than hold the file horizontally across the chain, as many chain sharpening instructions would say to do.
That professional isn't.
Guy on YT showed pretty clearly how different sized teeth cut differently on a simple piece of cheese. Anyone who's actually tried free-hand filing will have run across the OP's strong/weak-hand problem and if not found and corrected will have one side of the teeth all smaller/longer than the other.
Thats when people complain that their saw 'wants to cut to the left or right' for some reason.
Your "Pro" probably has an electric sharpener that he runs his chains through and rarely tops them off in the field so never really runs across the problem.
Go check some of the logger videos who seem to disagree and are definitely as professional.
I like the logic on sharpening for maintenance with a saw, similar to a good knife, you don't wait until it is dull and useless.
Exactly right! I have one tooth always longer than the other! I now always do more strokes on the longer side to even them up! Plus, keep my raker’s cleaned up. Thanks buddy, you are the only person who has pointed this out to me.
Cheers from Down Under
Sharpening with every tank of gas is the best tip you can give anyone. Its easy and smart
You forgot to mention as your chain's cutting teeth get older and about 30 percent has been sharpened away, the tilt of the cutting teeth causes the chain teeth to limit your cutting depth. At some point you need to run a flat file over the chain teeth (the teeth between each cutting edge) to bring them down a bit so your cutting teeth get a good bite again. Otherwise, those chain teeth and your cutting teeth get so close to the same depth your saw doesn't cut well. No one told me this. I used a chainsaw for 20 years and thought I was just bad at sharpening....until someone told me to give those teeth a few strokes with a small flat file. What a difference. I pulled out all my old chains, filed down those teeth, and got a lot more use out of them, and they cut like new again.
When you refer to teeth, do you mean rakes ?
I've filed literally 1000's of feet of chain one suggestion I would have for you is lean directly over top of the saw when filing an dsee if your angles stay stay good, the angle is not as critical as the length the advice you have given is very good
That's a great tip! Thanks for sharing.
lengh?
@@blueplasma5589 Length of stroke probably.
I agree, I've been sharpening chains since a kid & own/operate a stump grinding buisness for 17yrs & I've never used a guide from the beginning. Self taught is the best way & you can only get better at it. No matter what your doing. When your saw spits shoe laces or long curls your sharp.! Hook that baby & steepen the angle & ya got a real sharp blade. I can take someone's chain they've thrown out bkuz they thought was done & put an edge on it & cut some stumps..its awesome I love the life.!!! Much Love & Respect !!!
Jr.
Spitting noodles!!!
Great tips. And I also see things on TH-cam that make me wonder if people have lost their minds. Not only does your tips apply to chain saws, but anything that cuts. I will hit my lawnmower blade a few strokes just to get that edge back. Same with the hedge trimmer and branch trimmer. It only takes a few minutes and makes the job so much easier. My neighbor sharpens his blade once a season! But back to chain saws, I have three chains that I keep fully sharpened and when I fill the tank I swap the chains. Then all three go on the bench. I made a custom jig for my Dremel tool. I do all the left facing teeth, then swap it and do all the right side. It's one bolt to loosen, swap the chains, tighten and tension. I can do it so quick that it's faster than manually hitting each tooth while on the saw, but I can do what you suggest as well. And I may look like a fool, but I have the leather chaps, leather sleeves, helmet with the ear muffs and visor and my steel toe boots. It is hot, cumbersome and a pain in the ass, but the alternative is not acceptable. I have seen so many wicked things happen to lesser prepared people that it is second nature. Thanks for the video!
+Täking Thë High Roäd I have had a chain cut in my professional pruning work. I commend you. It is WORTH the derrier pain to be protected.
If you can guarantee the angle at which you grind your chain teeth with a Dremel, more power to you. That is a lot like Grandberg's 12 volt chain grinder. Do you have a guide?
every saw I have has two stud/nuts to remove to replace a chain... what saw do you have that only has one?
the the most useful bit of knowledge bestowed upon me in my 12 years working in the brush as a riggin slinger/hooktender/operator is never never under any circumstances do you drag your file backwards. draging a file backwards ruins your file, keep your file sharp and your saw will follow. a old timer taught me if you have 1 hour to cut down a tree dedicate 45 mins to sharpening your ax before you make a single cut, have fun n be safe, never attempt something your abilities aren't capable of or pushes your comfort zone beyond your true abilities, without guidance from a professional, I recently lost my good friend, brother,co worker and a well trained pro logger to a falling tree. it happens to the best of us and Jeremy James Paapke was jUst that. !!!NEVER FORGOTTEN JERM!!!! I MISS YA BRO. caulk side down, tin side up!
Thanks for the video. The chainsaw is one of my favorite power tools, I use my Stihl often. I also am a firm believer of sharpening at each gas fill up. I have been told by many that sharpening that much is a waste of time. What can you say to someone who thinks they know it all?? My reward? Clean cuts and less wear & tear on my Stihl.
Yeah , after a tank of gas , clamp the saw down touch up the cutting teeth and have a cold drink & relax. Less likely to have a bad accident if you're not tired & hydrated. I watch the size of my chips , if they start getting small and more dust like , time for a good sharpening.
Gas and file touch-up is perfectly fine. That metal is going to come off one way or the other, either small touch-ups, or full-on chain sharpening session....
Even IF what 'they say' was true, how much chain-life reduction would this be? 1-2 less cutting runs, or 20/50....
Pro's do it in the field for multiple reasons.
The chain is always sharp, which means more time cutting/productivity/efficiency, and a sharper chain is safer with fewer kickbacks, and you're not swapping chains throughout the day so maybe you carry 1 back-up chain instead of 3-5, and finally at the end of the day your chain is almost as sharp and a 2-min touch-up and your good to go instead of having to factor in another chain needing a full-on sharpening session.
++ Less wear and tear on machine and man.
I always file freehand with every fuel-up, and that works the best for me. I like to actually see the cutters as I go, so I can do the best job making them sharp, at the proper angle, and consistent to each other. I also mark the start link and go around twice-once for each angle.
With 20 years falling experience behind me I can tell you that learning to file really well takes time. It's all about muscle memory and a lot of time on the saw. First up - throw away that file guide. They are good for fck all. They don't allow you to get down into the tooth and file a good hook into it. Also you can't just tell someone to file one particular way and that's it - every time I file I put subtle pressures on the file depending on; What the cutter looks like, how the chain has been cutting, what type of wood I'm cutting and the task that I'm doing at the time. If I'm out falling radiata I keep my drags quite high and put more angle on my cutters, it makes it ultra sharp but very smooth. If I'm falling eucalypt I flatten off the angle on my cutters and bring my drags down a bit - slower cutting, but longer between sharpens. On the skid, or doing firewood I'll bring my drags down lower and put a bit more angle on the cutters, makes the saw more vicious but handles a bit of dirt and still cuts fast. No two loggers I have met sharpen exactly the same...everyone develops their own particular angles and preferences. I run a 3/8 chain but use a .404 file as it allows me to get a better hook on my cutters and that suits my filing style.
Thank you!! This should be the end of this discussion.
This dude knows his stuff
Radiata and eucalypt!!??!! What the hell is that stuff? You must live in some upside down place or something.
I didn't read any of the other comments. you got it...
Buda-filer!
Many thanks for taking the time to make the video. You are well-spoken and the info was presented in a clear, logical sequence that is easy to follow. I prefer the free-hand method and your info makes perfect sense. I especially like the fact that you don't pitch the need for special, fancy tools and you don't preach warnings about what happens if a person doesn't do things perfectly. Well done and thank you, my friend.
don boy does a really good job. Once you cut wood regularly you can hand sharpen a chain quickly and easily.
great video. i've been too intimidated to try sharpening my saw up till now. your video gives me some confidence to give it a try.
It takes time to get it right but every time you file you'll learn a little more. Please wear thick leather gloves while filing.
I appreciated how you explained your points! Please make video of you sharpening chainsaw blades!
Hold the phone First of all, he just did make a video of himself sharpening a chain. And secondly, THERE ARE NO BLADES ON A CHAINSAW!!! It is a CHAIN!
Good video. You might try sharpening from behind the saw sometime. I free-sharpen and have found this the best way for me to keep my teeth even. It works quite well for me. Good fortune.
Nice vid. Good solid instruction for the beginner and some pointers for all. I personally freehand my loops(no guide) but I've done thousands. It's all about comfort of the process and you convey that in your video. Well done!
*****
I use a pair of really sharp glasses. Without glasses I don't get the angles and height right.
Stihl chains have lines marked on the tooth. But again, your putting too much into the angles, and not doing the rakes.
Not really sure how I do it and keep things in line with each other. Suppose maybe they ARE out of whack and I'm just accustomed to it gradually getting to that point? Considering it takes only about the time that I spend smoking a cig to do my chain- and the fact that when I'm cutting all day, depending WHAT I'm cutting dictates the frequency of the filing- Ficus trimming is least maint. being the wood is very soft(as long as the oiler is a flowing or the sap can cause issues). I can sharpen every 4-5 tankfuls or more. Cassuarina(She-oak/AussiePine) is just BRUTAL. I almost prefer a slightly dull chain(if I'm days at it or more, I change(decrease) angle altogether ) cuz the stuff is just SO hard- I've broken several new 'cheapo' chains over the years just due to them 'grabbing' in a spot on the limb and sticking and POP-CLANK... a-ring-ding-ding..ding...lol. Palm trimming is the most variable(and the filthiest- for me and my saw), depending upon the actual palm species, condition of the 'boots' of the tree, seed pod/fruit load in the tree at the time the work's done and probably the biggest variable is me... how fast I feel like hoggin' thru it- in the A.M., I'm ready to rip- but after a late lunch and 40-60 trees later, it's gotta be the 'to finish a job' for me to even get back up there after about 5-6hrs of swinging the saw already. In that period I probably tend to the edge of the loop 3-5 times minimum. Every few times after I do filing , the starter cover and chain/clutch covers come off and the entire saw gets a thorough clean out. Palm crud packed in cooling fins is one of the fastest ways to COOK your baby- I've seen a few brand new saws fry on day 1 of their 'service'. Inexperienced cutters or 'real tree men'(you know...from 'up north'- where there are 'real trees!' Lol) like to blame the person that mixed the fuel or cry 'faulty crankseals' or loose carb, etc. Best advice overall IMO, more often will be less time overall in any occasion. If I had to spend 20min. sharpening my chain- I'd cool off too much and never go back up!
Good tips, especially don't wait for dust.
Ok totally agreeing with everything you are say a few extra pointer to just take it a little further
1/ I no you talking about the chain but for me it starts with the bar
make sure this is rotated at least every day pre end of end when preparing saw for next day of work. Run a sharp edge through the grove of the bar. check that the tip is freely moving some times a good clean and a bit of bar oil on helps keep it in cheek. the reason I have suggested this is to help the chain move freely which keep the chain from burning edges.
2/ When sharping saws use a staple base so the saw does not move around. so you can get a good edge.
3/End of day sharping is a great practise so if you need it urgently to move fall trees it set to go avoids frustration and dangerous practises.
4/Use a chainsaw sharping grinder machine regularly to bring chain back to guide I use mine at least every second time I use saw and at end of season.
5/spare chains are advantage and keep a good old chain for when you are cutting in places that the chain may hit something you may not want it to.
6/ Avoid over heating chain and burning edges
7/check depth lungs on saw these need to be taken down with a flat file often. Have seen saw with these at nearly zero. But don't recommend this practise.
Lastly most towns and farming commutes have chainsaw classes I recommend attending these to touch up on best practises
+brendon mcavoy
Cleaning the bar groove and greasing the bar tip, if it has a roller bearing tip, plus blowing out the chips around the clutch, is also regular maintenance.
I agree with the maintenance sharpening. I would like to add that I would never try to free hand with file only unless you have no choice . Always use the file guide, for the amount of metal you are removing with a hand file, just do the same amount of strokes on both sides. you will never wear the teeth down like a grinder does. We also have a tendency to over think things. Nice even strokes and the same amount on each side each time every time is best practice. thank you for the video.
Whats with the apocolyptic warning?
A 30' angle is pretty simple for most people to visualize, and even easier as most chains have that indented on each tooth...
Take one of your old chains from the pile, and simply try it.
Keep your 30' angle through the stroke, keep the file level/parallel, and put a little pressure into the tooth instead of down.
5/6/7/8 strokes per tooth on a worn chain, check shorts sides are similar in length and add strokes if necessary, then check your rakers and file down a little if needed.
The go out and see if it cuts any better.
Its a 5-10 minute exercise vs an over-analysed thought experiment.
And you seem to have missed the entire reason for the video, which was there is a good chance same number of strokes per tooth/side is not a good rule of thumb.
I got rid of the file guide after my first week of coppicing, its hassle, also like a few other people have said, swap sides
Fairly solid advice with a couple caveats. You shouldn't need to sharpen every tank unless you are hitting the ground a lot or there is an issue with your chain. If I am cutting for a full day I normally do a touch up at lunch and one at the end of the day unless I can tell the chain is getting very dull otherwise. In addition to the round file get a depth gauge filing kit with the flat file and guide. Check those every few sharpening's. If you happen to take more metal off one side than the other, get a few teeth out of whack, or the saw starts cutting crooked etc take your chain to someone with an electric chain sharpener (not the little dremel type an actual purpose built saw sharpener with angle settings and a chain vice) and get it professionally sharpened. I happen to own a nice sharpener and I will put my chains on it ever few days-week of combined cutting just to true everything up.
Not sure what you're cutting, but NE Ash is what I am and new Oregon chains are getting noticably dull after an hour or two. I just started sharpening with the guide because it wasn't that much more expensive than the file alone option, and I have 5-6 old chains. Simple instructions and checks as mentioned in the video and by another old ship builder on YT seem to be working out perfectly fine.
Box store often has 2x chains for $30, so $15/chain is almost the same as the $10-12 local shops want for sharpening so taking them in is not really an option at least economical.
If you've sharpened them to the point where the geometry is out of whack, then you basically have 2 options, figure out what you're doing wrong and fix it or the tool selection, or either pay someone to sharpen them occasionally or buy new.
If you're getting a couple of decent sharpening sessions from a chain, you're already saving money.
Smart thing to do, if you are actually doing enough re-sharpening, is to look at some reviews on those angle/depth jigs they have that bolt onto the bar.
Might be $30-40, but if you're working the chains enough to warrant it, you should probably bite the bullet and for the price of a couple new chains or several outsourced sharpenings will cover it.
I agree 100% when you mentioned that its a different amount of strokes for each tooth!! Wish I had someone who understood that when I sharpened a chainsaw. I've heard it many times..." why don't you just hit it three times" well because when I cut the rock or nail or whatever dulled it all the teeth didn't hit it exactly the same! Brilliant!
Start with the worst one and count strokes. Inconsistent pressure on each side would be the only thing giving you different size teeth this way
Thanks for the tips i have a battery model 200c and you done well.
I clamp my saw in a bench vise. I file every other tooth, then turn the saw around in the vise and file the alternating teeth. This way it feels pretty much the same when filing all the teeth. I don't use a file guide.
So you stay near the video.
Ditto. It only takes a few seconds to flip the saw around and I using the same muscle memory. Works for me because I’m not a professional and time is not of the essence - more about safety and consistency.
Marvin Werner could say it better
I do the same. 40 plus years of doing it and it's simply the best for me because when you do all the teeth on one side, you're done when you come back around to shiny filed metal. Then do the other side. Your muscle memory kicks right back in by the second tooth.
What do you do when you are in the field, and the vice isn't accessible?
Right on. I use a guide as well. With experience you can feel it right away when your chain starts slowing down. If you cut dirty wood it has to be sharpened much more often,.
Would it not make more sense to move to the other side of the saw instead of adjusting your number of strokes? That way youre using a consistant action no matter which edge youre facing
When you are reaching across the bar, remember which is your strong hand because the pressure you exert is different. And are you left or right handed.....? Consistency takes a lot of practice, experience and close visual inspection.
I agree! Hand file with the guide; it won't feel as sharp but it will last much longer. Learn to file without a vise because you won't always have a vise when you need to file. Frequent filing is a big help in keeping the chain nice and sharp. A good presentation! Remember to file the rakers(using a raker guide and flat file) as the teeth wear down. Sharp teeth will still give you powder if your rakers are too high. Take your chain off now and then, clean the chain groove out and file the wire edge off the wear areas of your bar. I only grease the bar tip whenever I install a new chain, (some may disagree) but clean the chain groove and remove the wire edge from the bar every time I have reason to take the chain off. I've been getting my firewood 5 to 10 cords per year from stump to stove for over thirty years. I make a considerable effort to keep my wood clean and free of mud and grit. You will do much less sharpening as a result.
folks try and train yerself to just use the file no guides ,no nothing file tooth til its sharp it doest matter if one tooth is a bit shorter or longer that's what raker gauges or for. I like that this fella say he not a expert sharpener, honest, to many guys getting into stuff they don't no about and screwin' people up .keep up the honesty LDU
you bet pal
I've watched your vids, your the best, thanks so much for teaching me, I can finally sharpen a chain, even after getting it in rocks and nails etc, thank you so much buckin Billy ray! oh I got a pro mac 55 can't part with it tho!!
Hey Buckin I love your videos!
Been using chainsaws ~40 yrs now, and have hopefully learned a few things:
1. Even cutting clean wood, touch up chain every second fillup (with big tanks even).
2. Use precision (Granberg) file guide for normal sharpening, grinder for de-rocking- then file.
3. Use min file strokes. I find that thumb is useful for checking cutter sharpness. Minor un-evenness of cutters is fine.
4. If saw needs "dogging-in" or is spitting dust, file chain NOW.
5. Carry spare chain, so you can restore rocked chain back at home.
6. Check depth gauges periodically with guide that sits on cutters; a/r file them with Granberg guide. Stump vise helps.
7. Avoid stihl and keep your coin.
By back cutting and pulling the file towards the cutting edge you are rolling the cut chip over the cutting edge. This greatly reduces the sharpness of the cutting edge.
File from the cutting edge towards the relief. You will notice the difference.
I often wondered about that (coming from engineering). I know little about chainsaws, and am trying to get up so speed as I bought a small used McCulloch and getting it a new bar and chain. I would naturally think the way you do it is better. Are you a pro using a chainsaw?
Ok, I'll try it, but I thought the burr would be worn away in the first few seconds of cutting anyway.
Thx much the tip about lifting the file and putting the guide on top of the cutting tooth solved my under cutting issue. I didn't know in fact that was an issue with hand sharpening so I thank you for educating me sir
Chain shot is a broken chain under load caused by excessive hook over filing into the side links and of course excessive raker.I find with the little Carlton plate all these are properly taken care of needing only to be used once or twice in a chains life for you,others andI.I use a 30 in super chisel/skip on a ported 61 Husky.I love that saw.The plate will fit in your wallet.Thanks for the timely reply.
@Tree Man The need to be really careful on plunge and upper tip cutting can't be any more dangerous if you are not being on the ball at all times.
Most excellent video, very good information, quick and to the point, now I’m really glad I ordered the file guide like you have, thank you sir!
I must
have sharpened my chain five times with no better cut, finally I filed down the rakers just a few strokes and WALA! it cuts like a possesed beaver
The infamous aha moment! Keep up the great work. It takes time to learn.
going to try that
It's a good informative video. Personally I wouldn't show or even tell, how I sharpen. I liked an aggressive cut, kickback potential is increased and it's harder on the hands. Most of the people I have worked with over the years prefer the same cut. Contract work is piecework, the faster you cut the more you make. When I was teaching the job I showed a similar style as your video. It was a case of do as I say not as I do. I made a chainsaw training film for the BC ministry of forests back in 94. One thing I will add is that the angles are as important as the edge. Maybe more important. It's a chisel. If you have the right angles you won't have to sharpen as often. As far as the rakers go you should always use a depth gauge. All the rakers being the same height is important too, common belief is that one side being sharper will make the saw cut crooked, which is true, but uneven rakers will also make a crooked cut. It you don't have a depth gauge, I never did, Just lay a flat file on top of the teeth and you can see the gap, and round the front of the rakers off after you take them down, a square edge can slow down the cut too. Another tip I might add is leaner to file with both hands. Not only does backhanding make it harder to get a good even stroke, I have also seen bone deep cuts on knuckles because the knuckle of your next finger is lined right up to the tooth when you sharpen back handed. you can still cut your finger by slipping forehanded but trust me it's better than the knuckle. because there is a tendon in the knuckle. Sorry for hogging your bandwidth. Cheers.
Gathering firewood is my main source of money so I hand sharpen regularly. I have never used a guide but tend to dig down into the lower section by the time the chain is dead. A mistake I see my father make often is lifting his file at the end of his stroke which I believe cuts into the edge he just created. One suggestion I would make is rather than sharpening from your weak side just rotate the saw. I sharpen right handed and suck left handed so I just flip my saw around.
*****
turning the saw does change the side your teeth are on.. so one way your in a natural (inward) grip the other your not natural.. (outward grip)
Weak and strong side filing is an interesting tip I haven't seen anyone else mention.
What is often mentioned is looking at the short side of the teeth and insuring they are all similar. Different sized teeth will take different amounts of cut, and if all of the left-hand side of the alternating chain teeth are shorter/longer, it will want to drift to the left or right while cutting.
Harbor Freight has $2.99 plastic micrometers which are actually pretty useful in the garage and are great it you use it for this purpose. Just check the short side on one tooth, and then the opposite side short side of the adjacent tooth. Fairly close is fine, but if one short side is 25-30% longer, then you probably are experiencing that strong/weak-side symptom.
Great tip.
Apparently another is that when filing you don't want to be pushing down on the file as much as putting pressure backwards into the gullet.
I've been running chainsaws and sharpening my own chains for at least 25 years. I learned from my Dad. You can wear gloves but if you're good you don't necessarily need to. I have done a lot of production cutting in the woods and if I sharpened my chain every tank it would have slowed me way down. If you're good you shouldn't need to touch it up even that often. I couldn't stand using a guide especially since I learned without it. I really like to use the same number of Strokes unless one tooth is dulled worse. I will take more Strokes on that tooth but then take less off it on the next sharpening to try to even it out. I also count Strokes for taking the rakers down with a flat file. Getting the correct angle and hook on the teeth is just something you learn and push yourself to get the habit right. Never Back Drag.
I’ve had trouble getting the hang of this and messed up a bunch of chains so what I’ve been doing is you get a electric chainsaw sharpener and sharpen a bunch of chainsaw chains when you fill up take the bar off clean the groove on the bar flip it over and put on a sharp chain use a stiff brush and clean off all of the sawdust inside if you’re not using a husky or a echo you should clean the air filter also. It doesn’t take that long it’s faster than trying to touch up the chain out in the woods and it saves a lot of aggravation when you get back home run all of your chains through your sharpener it only takes a couple minutes on each chain set it up go through one side then turn the grinder and do the other side. You can get a saw sharpener from harbor freight for about $30 I also bought an extra sharpener disk which I haven’t needed I have sharpened hundreds of chains every year for myself and others and in the last 10 years I still haven’t worn out the grinding disk if you are doing a lot of cutting buy a roll of chain from Baileys and make up your own chains other wise buy 3 or 4 to fit your saw the round files don’t hold up that long and at $3-7 a peace you’ll spend a lot more on files than the saw sharpener for sharpening about 4 chains plus you can sharpen all of your friends chains if you take them to the saw shops they’ll charge you $5 -20 each and in just a few minutes you can take all of the dings chips and straighten up all the teeth 🦷 on your chain you can get a guide and a flat file to trim down the rakers but you will only have to do that about once every 10 sharpening’s. I really don’t understand The macho thang about trying to sharpen a saw with a file by sight there are several different angles that must all be correct to get a good cut and if you missed just one you’re chain will get bad really quick and can become really dangerous faster than you would think. And if that’s the way you want to be my suggestion is playing with your files then put up your saw and go have a beer and bragging that you sharpen it just like the old timers did I’ve been around loggers for years and I’ve only met a couple that could actually sharpen a chain properly very many times without messing it up but they all sound good the way they tell it 🤩
Keeping the files in a straw is a great tip.
DieselTruckin
Yeah I mean, once they go in that tool box they freeze into place as does everything else and dirt ceases to exist
Just remember to remove the file before drinking out of the straw, I can't tell you how many times I've been to the emergency room to get a file removed from the roof of my mouth.
i think you're giving the right advise, a brand new owner with not alot of, or no experience in saws and chain sharpening needs a reference to start with, and from the manufacturer, the same strokes on each side method isn't for training to get perfect results as much as going into detail isn't the most effective way in stressing the similar or exact profiles of the cut are important. anyone with experience either just looks at the type of chain and picks up the file and goes to town. so the stages of experience are going to vary alot. the newer operators will always look for tips until they get it and maybe even after somewhat. but i'll tell you one thing, when someone uses the wrong file size and doesn't follow the recommended angles or just wings the depth gauge cuts will soon find out that maybe they should, by the saw is either going to cut too much or not last long or breaks or wears the whole chainsaw out, well those guys shouldn't be buying saws in the first place. they should borrow them from a future ex friend. tools are junk these days, files especially, i'm not sure if nicholson can even produce high quality files anymore on account of less informed mechanics or wannabees buying stuff from harbor freight and lowes. nicholson and other tool makers like it used to pump out the best there ever was. so now if the tools are treated rough, just buy another one. they're disposable. i don't know about the sharpening every tank, usually done right a chain will hold up from 2 or 3 tanks or more, before it's starting to dull. don't cut dry and hard stoney wood. found that out a neighbor asked if i'd cut some wood for him. it was petrified and had like a silica type of by products from some insect or a stage of decay that was like fine sand. i sharpened his chain for him and said your saw big enough to cut that. no dirt in the cutting is good to learn for maintaining longer cut life. you can destroy a saw in 5 minutes if you try cutting roots of a stump to pull out. use a sawzall. unless someone is a logger, bucking or falling, things are going to be new everytime you sharpen one.
Agree, sharpen when you put it in storage also. That way it’s ready when need it.
If anyone out there doesn't know what a file plate is you should find out. A file plate will give you a perfect depth and angle and also allow for raker removal that is in the proper height to cutting edge ratio. And if you can't cut all day without having to sharpen your blade you should give it up. Finally when using a file plate for your specific chain size you really need to be in a vise or a holding device (portable vise) to do the best job. A chain sharpened properly will pull a long chip as it passes through the log at such a rate you almost have to hold back the saw. All of this is intended for the professional sawer with high end 5 hp plus saws. That file guide he uses in the video is not a file plate. A file plate is a small thin stainless steel plate made for the specific profile of the chain. It gives you the right angle to bar 35 degrees along with preventing the file from cutting to deep into the chain. This depth is important for the right entry curve of the tooth that first enters the wood and produces the long efficient chip removal. Finally it also sets the racker height to the top of the forward cutting edge of the tooth. Be safe.
Get rid of the file guide because it is easier to see what you are doing. There are are marks on the top of the tooth that show you the angle.
Number of strokes vs metal removed. An excellent observation. "Same number of strokes" is intended to produce amount of metal removed, but people get lost in the means goals versus the ends goal of the finished result.
***** How about STIHL 2-in-1 EasyFile
Top Vid .. Ive never figured out exactly how to use a guide before..Thanks Mate
15 years cutting trees for a living and i just found out on this video too.
I'm very happy to have seen this video; it confirms many things I've worked out over the years. I cut Australian hardwoods and they are very tough on chains, so constant sharpening is essential. I agree - every tank of fuel followed by a quick touch-up. I was wondering; do you have any videos on maintaining rakers properly? I use a Stihl guide but I find it inadequate.
Nice video. I'll have to do the straw trick now with my file for sure. :) I bought a timberline sharpener last year and that works pretty well for the bigger saws. The smaller 940 I still have to sharpen by hand. I observe the chain and how its cutting. If I feel sluggish response I sharpen it, but not every tank of gas. Only when it feels dull in its use. But these are very good tips and I'll take em into consideration next time I use my saw. Thanks again!
You can sharpen files with sulfuric acid as well. The straw trick is good for average Joe.Pros keep em in a leather pouch on our hips .
I was taught free-hand filing as a boy and have done so for many years. I push the file for every other tooth and flip the saw end for end to push file the opposite side. I was lucky to have a Dad that knew how to sharpen a chain. I may not be an expert but a new chain is dull to me. Getting the leaders or rakers flat-filed to the correct height is a challenge but I also do it free-hand. Bar rail accuracy is an issue with a lot of cheap bars. Set it on its rails on a flat surface and hold a square against it to make sure it stands perfectly straight at 90 degrees to the table. I use a table saw with a grinding wheel to custom grind the rails to a perfect 90. I do tree service and see a lot of home owners trying to cut with a chain that the local saw shop sharpened but do to liability reasons they will not take the rakers down. Then the home owner gets upset because his sharpened chain won't cut.
I have been running a chainsaw for 25 years cutting shake and shingle blocks and falling timber here in BC. It is more important that you keep opposing pairs of teeth the same but no need for all teeth to match. If I 'rock out' a couple of teeth badly when I sharpen them they will be quite a bit shorter then the others, by shortening only the opposing teeth I save a lot of chain and filing time and still cut fast and straight. As for filing guides I've never used one for the round file but always use a guide for filing down the rackers as proper depth of cut is important. How many guys have a sharp chain that doesn't cut because their rackers are so high the teeth aren't touching wood ? Conversly too low and they bite too hard and dog down or stop the chain. Happy Bucking.
Great tip, thanks. Question, why would a brand new chain and bar on 55 Rancher go dull after about 7-8 12" oak trunk cuts? Oiler appears to be working.... Factory Husky or Oregon chain, bought at Lowes (higher anti-kick rackers for "homeowners"?) I've sharpened it, but continues to fade quickly. I'm thinking rackers are too tall, they seem on same level (height) as cutting tooth...
Thoughts?
Richard Marshall Rackers have to be lower then the tooth for the tooth to cut, Every chain size has its own depth of cut which should be on the box it came in or ask your saw dealer for it. Buy a racker gauge , less then ten bucks, and buy a new chain without the anti-kickback plates. If you look at the chain you have you'll notice that those plates are so high as to make the rackers useless and are headed for the garbage bin while still having plenty of tooth left as it wont cut anymore. As for your initial problem unless you have the worlds hardest oak you should have gotten farther then ten inchs with a new chain so I suspect you found a rock or hard grit, those damage any chain. Hope this is usefull for you.
do you sharpen your chain abit steeper then the witness mark angle?
Good tip right there Danny... opposing teeth!
If the wood is hard you may need to change the angle to make it more durable.
In soft woods it is common to have a deeper gullet, more hook and steeper angle, but that would dull very quickly in harder stuff, and if you hit a rock, oh man!
I've seen chains dull quickly when someone files them too hard, and a burr forms on the working edge and gullet. The burr gets broken off pretty quickly and damages the cutting edges so they are dull.
Slide something along the tooth opposite to the direction of cutting, if it catches on the edges there is a burr sticking up.
If that is the case, don't file so hard, especially the last couple strokes, you should be just barely touching the chain on the last stroke, and if you have no guide, rolling the file towards the working edge.
Also, check the trees for sand and rock, if there is barren ground around them rain can splash sand on the stump a long ways up.
Thanx for the video but I have a couple problems with what you said. First is, the hook in the tooth is a good thing. You do not want to take it out unless you are using a square ground chain, which you are not. That is why the file is round. The hook is what allows the wood chip to evacuate the tooth. Second, you are sharpening your chain way way way too often. I run a saw for 8 to 10 hours per day in oak, redwood, pine, fir and brush and touch it up at the end of every day. No need to do it more often unless you cut something other than wood i.e. some kind of metal like a nail or wire or hit dirt. If you hit a rock, change chains and have that one ground at a shop.
great video :) sharpening after every refill seems a bit extreme, guess it depends on the wood your cutting and if your using it on the ground ( damn those rocks and dirt :P )
Here's a very handy tip for you. An aluminium strip 1/2 in wide x 1/8 th inch thick. Start with an 8 inch length and uniformly drill holes beginning with a diam the full length of a brand new chain tooth. Next hole, reduce that diam by 1/64th and again and again until you end up with the smallest hole being the diameter of chain teeth when its ready to throw away. After every 2 or 3 sharpening jobs, check which teeth are not reasonably consistent with one hole of your guide. Its quick and the aluminium won't take the edge off and you simply mark the longer teeth and quickly bring them into line with all the others.... All the way to the end of the chain's life. Little inconsistencies mean nothing as long as they are both sides of the chain so you don't need to lose too much sleep on having exact teeth lengths. Hence this guide is perfect for out on a working day.
Couple comments. I'd be inclined to clamp the bar and then sharpen nearer the tip. It may hold the chain more uniformly, with less chance of wobble. Second thing is from old gunsmith I used to work with. Old school exercise was to give learner a small lump of iron. The task was to make a one inch cube block, polished flats. Hand tools only. The lesson (and why it applies here) is to train your hands to file flat and consistently. Try it. Take a piece of metal and flat file one side, flat abrasive paper/cloth to finish. Most folks wont notice that they rocker the file at the beginning or end of the stroke. So even if you polish it later, you will see wavy reflections at the ends. It's just trying to get you to notice the wobbles in your stroke that can mess up your sharpening. Teach your muscles the memory that lasts.
I have been able to hand file the chains that use a 5/32" file successfully, but with the larger chains that use a 3/16" file (such as my Stihl saw), I have had much difficulty achieving a satisfactorily sharp chain with hand filing (or using an electric saw sharpener). I have tried every sharpening technique I could think of, including using a bar mounted filing guide (jig), and an electric chain sharpener. I also filed the rakers a little for good measure, but the raker depth gauge did not indicate the rakers needed filing, as far as I could tell. No matter what, not much improvement in the chain's cutting performance. I don't know if the chain was still dull after sharpening, or if the poor performance was caused by some other problem (wrong filing angle, inconsistent filing on each cutter, etc.). I am beginning to think that the chainsaw chain factories use black magic to sharpen their chains, since the chains cut so well when new (lol). However, your video showed some filing techniques I have not used and will try. Maybe I will have some luck. Like you, I have concluded that some of the information in the "standard" instructions for hand filing a chain is not really correct. I would like to see the people that write these hand filing instructions actually hand sharpen a chain successfully, using their own instructions. Might be amusing, since I suspect they have probably never sharpened a chain, but only reprinted old, generic chain sharpening instructions! Thank you for the chainsaw chain sharpening video!
i use to cut trees professionally and i never met anyone who sharpened a saw every time they fueled up,unless they were a green horn roto tilling with the saw.When your falling trees you are going through a lot of fuel,and i only sharpened my saw if it really needed it ,and if your sharpening a saw with a 28 to 36 inch bar every time you fill it what a joke and a waste of your teeth.When guys are climbing,topping and limbing with the small 18 inch bar off the ground,those saws need sharpening even less,no dirt or rocks,unless you hit a nail or something.It's all about keeping your saw in the wood and not the ground.Maybe this advice would be ok for a homeowner who takes his saw out of the garage one Saturday every 6 months ,but not for someone who uses his saw regularly.This guy didn't mention keeping his depth gauge ( rakers) down a little since he is filing his saw so much. If you are cutting dead trees your saw also will dull much quicker or if your trees get a lot of silt and decayed matter.And if i am going to be cutting brush or low to the ground with a steep slope for some time i will throw on an older chain that i if i rock it at least it's not good chain.
richard hammer , haha I have learned everything you said the hard way, I just figured out it's not good to cut dirt or dirty wood, that fuckes up a blade really fast. I am just getting into chain sawing alot and am learning.
@DB Stevens ,yep you are right haha, I can't imagine sharpening a chain every time I filled up the gas tank. He must be digging ditches with his saw.
Maybe he is laying cable in the ground with it Richard...he can't be cutting wood with it that's for sure. Throw the file guide away! Now you wouldn't happen to be from bearcreek would you?
Well said and I also have many years at it.. Dirt kills blades... I am all done buying picker loads that has been dragged out...Not as bad in the winter but terrible the other 3 seasons.
with all the complete nonsense in youtube it's nice to see someone get it right for a change. good work!
Just to clarify...it is good to try and remove the same amount of metal from each cutter, but not necessary. As long as each depth gauge is set to the corresponding cutter, it doesn't matter.
+NotImpressed to a degree but the cutters get narrower when they are filed back and thus will remove less material in the cut - this will cause the cut to curve away from the wider cutters side. Similar to if a car brakes on one side and not the other.
Bingo!!
so.... the taller cutters work harder, get hotter, lose temper.... while the lower teeth do no work.
Got it.
I know what you mean when you say "dust." It is fine saw dust. But you need to make the distinction so people know you are saying the goal is to create CHIPS, as opposed to saw dust. That is correct.
Your choice of file guide is excellent. It is one of the few that is almost foolproof. However, they have modified their sharpening instructions. Rather than lifting one side of the guide when the tooth has become shorter, you are now to get the next smaller size file & file guide. This will maintain the tooth configuration on the now-shorter tooth, which now has a LOWER PROFILE.
Good job making this video. You spoke clearly, kept it interesting, and used good equipment. The stump vise is good, and your chain wasn't loose-looking.
As others have mentioned, I too sharpen one side teeth, then go to other side and sharpen. Gloves on one hand, file in the other. I agree with the video about the importance of the metal removed over the number of strokes. There is a feel using the file with both hands that lets you know the angle, but this is an individual choice and the guide is fine for those who prefer it. I roll the file a certain direction as I file the teeth, which seems to help also.
I'm no lumberjack or landscaper but I have heated my home with wood for 25yrs. I cut and split my own wood. It takes about 3-4 cords a yr. I use a dremel tool to sharpen my chain the day before I cut wood. I use a hand file on the off chance I hit stone or such while bucking. My chains last about 3 yrs before replacing. I used a Homelike XL that I got from my dad, who bought it new in 1963, until 2yrs ago. I had to get a new one (Sthil) because the vibration would make my arm numb.
On your home lite xl, where would I find a carburetor kit for it? I have a 1961 model and love to get it running again.
No idea. I haven't had mine running in many years.
I have a couple. There was an old guy had a few parts and I got it from him before he passed. I do have the points and carb kit though. I just need the model and serial numbers from your saw.
It's good to install the bar upside down alternating every so many tanks of gas. That way the bar wears more evenly
+Craig Carlsen And you need to take the lip off the sides with a flat file when there is one.
+Craig Carlsen How about every second sharpening? That's in the same department. But you are on the RIGHT track.
Michael Dougfir Just depends on how fast the bar wears. You might get a whole season on one side. I just do mine every so often, usually at the end of the cutting season, then I'll tear it down and blow out the junk, clean the groove and flip the bar. If you feel a lip on it, just get out the file or a Dremel tool and clip it off. No problem.
+Michael Dougfir Every second sharpening is too often with the dirty wood we have here, but every one to two gallons seems to work.
Apparently you don't know. It's OK not to know. First, what are you being insulting for?
Second, the bar wears most on the side being used for cutting. There is a lot of pressure, wear and strain on that side. In addition, all bar and saw makers recognize the fact of flipping the bar now and then. The wear on the bar can be lessened by using both sides in rotation.
Also, there is a protocol for bar maintenance when the side most used needs work. It involves careful filing. There is even a tool made just for this.
If you wait to long before sharpening your chain you also take the temper out of the teeth. Waiting until you see saw dust and not chips also causes lots of heat, and as many of you know heat is not good on metal. If you see your cutting teeth turning blue you may as well throw it in the scrap pile because even if you get a perfect edge on it, it will not last. Also if you are using a high speed sharping stone like on a Dremel you may also damage the cutting edge if you get the teeth hot, touch it for just a second and stop if it needs a bit more touch it again, just make sure you do not get the teeth hot.
But if you sharpen it every time you refill your tank you will get 1. more cuts out of your tank of fuel, 2. Less wear and tear on your saw, 3. more life out of your chain, 4. Less time cutting wood, and these are just the main things I can think of, plus you get a small break from cutting and a chance to sit down and rest, and if you are sharpening a chain the size I am, you have plenty of time to rest being that my chain is over 7' long and that is only a 36" saw.
I purchased a 600.00 dollar professional sharpener, and to date I have not used it once, I have just gotten used to a rat tail file and touch it up every time I refill my tank. I have found if you do this you will wear the chain out without ever having to remove it even once, I have taken it all the way past the angle mark toward the end of the tooth. So sharpen it every time you refill folks, you will be a lot happier I promise you.
When I sharpen I do not use a guide and I actually apply pressure into the tooth and UP towards the chisel tip, rotating the file away from the tooth as I push. I want to see the file close the gap to ensure that the flat cutting edge is as sharp as possible. This requires some elbow grease but I have found using this method I can sharpen my chain to near factory sharpness.
+prothius a little twist works wonders
if you perfect your skills you can sharpen your saw chain to cut faster than a factory chain
Why would you do that? - The top is where the cutting edge is. Leave the cutting edge round and nice and dull.and cut down in the bottom of the gullet where no cutting is done. (Hope you know I'm kidding) I'd love to see this guy grind a drill bit, though. ("Strong" side yurass)
prothiu
stops ya rocking the cradle helps keep the file square to the bar the bloke who taught me was chief trainer for mcculloch aust and a pro firewood cutter he was taught a few tricks by their service manager.
I really liked the video. Using my chainsaw mill often now. Will be needing more sharpening.
At work we started cutting trees under transmission lines (the big towers). In my experience, the bigger the trees you cut, the more garbage you're going to hit inside the tree. For example dirt, mud, or barbed wire. We got pretty good at free filing, for a long time I didn't even know they made file guides and electric chain grinders lol. I always file the drags the same amount of strokes on both sides and just kinda eyeball the teeth. But that takes a whole lot of trial and error, like, 5 days a week for two years worth of trial and error lol.
My best tip is this. Run your saw until there is plenty of chain lube on the teeth. It will lubricate your file and keep it sharp much longer.
I only use the new Stihl file guide when the rakers need filing down. It does work really well but not as fast as hand filing in a vice.
Trust your eye and it will tell you exactly the right height for your file. Wipe your file clean with a rag with every other tooth and it will last much longer. Rotate it slightly before every stroke or the file teeth will clog. Simple things but I'm amazed how few people tell you these vital tricks.
Thanks for the great tips. I really like the one about rotating the file a little before each stroke. That makes a ton of sense!
why don't you just file every other tooth then stand on the other side of the saw and sharpen every other tooth. Wouldn't that give more consistent results? or turn the saw the opposite direction? Instead of pushing file for one angle and pulling for the other angle.
+nofaithjusthope This is simple, easier and correct.
+nofaithjusthope It happens nevertheless. You hold handle with different hand in each case.
+MrGoranPa What happens never the less? I always use my hands like this: right hand on file handle left hand other end of file to stabilize file so I'm not sue what you mean (different hand)?
I then sharpen every other tooth and then either turning saw around so bar is pointing in other direction or stand on opposite side of saw and sharpen every other tooth.
This way I think is more consistent than sharpening ALL teeth at the same time from the same position because you wind up putting more pressure and possibly different angle on the teeth because you push file for one direction and pull for the other as shown in this video.
I can't imagine how you do that. :)
+Michael Dougfir it's not
Hi, I've watched a number of videos on sharpening and this one would have to be the best technique as your explanation makes sense. I sharpen my blades this way and think that other videos that show how they sharpen (back and forward) are ridiculously crazy! Pushing away from your body is the best way. Good on you!
Every time you gas up is just ridiculous. If you are not cutting in mud or stumping or cutting trees that have been down and mud splashed you might consider doing a maintenance sharpening every 2 or 3 fills. Personally I can sometimes 4 or 5 days hard use before even needing to think about sharpening (still cutting at a 7 on scale of 1-10). and sometimes I have to sharpen a blade 3 or 4 times in 1 day if I am stumping or i hit rock or something.
Damn.... dude what are you cutting to go almost a week between sharpenings, Balsa wood? Seriously tho, are you using carbide tipped loops or what? I can't make it more than 3 or 4 tanks before I get impatient and wanna force things, but I primarily cut Causerina(Aussie Pine) and Quercus Virginiana(Swamp oak). I hate sharpening(but I am VERY good at it) cuz its time consuming for me!
I got into a pinch and the only thing i had on hand was a 14 in electric saw. The tree that fell was about 20 in dia. i used my file a little here and there and watched the ribbons coming off. I listened to the motor and kept the revs at almost the no load rpm.
Sliced up the whole tree in no time without a problem. A sharp tool is the best way to go.
I thought I only had these issues and myths 1 and 2 are so true for me. I'm a weekend warrior and my brother w/ side tree jobs. I sharpen at a minimum before going out no matter how well it was making chips last use. I also totally have the problem of a weak versus strong side sharpening on the bar. I have a chain vise for when the chain is off that helps even out since powerhead is never in the way -- grips the drive links better to get a very accurate hand file. I always look at how much metal is left and adjust strokes accordingly. I use a Husky roller guide so I don't really have myth #3 as the roller setup makes the file always engage the tooth at the right depth and get rid of free file induced hook or similar. Makes me feel much better that I identified at least 2 of your myths on my own. Thanks for the video.
I worked in a saw shop for over 10 years, and owned a shop for another 20 years, afrer growing up on a farm
where we cut wood for every purpose, fence posts, firewood, construction boards, etc. Wood itself is abrasive.
You can actually use wood to sharpen steel ! One has to study wood to know how to cut it properly and easily.
But, back to sharpening steel to cut anything; even steel itself. - Just a sharp edge is not enough. Clearance,
and proper clearance for the job is of greater importance. If you don't have enough of the right clearance behind
the cutting edge, you will do nothing but rub your cutting tool duller, and burn it to a hardness you won't be able
to even file.
Different wood, like different anything, requires varied methods and tools to cut efficiently and effectively!
Don't just fumble along; study on it and save yourself frustration. A hardwood from South American rainforests
near past volcanic action made beautiful and strong furniture, but was impossible to cut, until they employed
carbide tipped tools (saw chains included). -Just an example!
I like a lot you channel and I learn a lot thanks my friend.
I sure got myself real good two days ago while sharpening my saw
Jc Cj how’s it heal up bud
I worked in a small engine/chainsaw shop for 10 years, and you wouldn't believe the condition some of the chains were in that customers brought in to be sharpened. Angles all over the place, parrot beak teeth and rakers too high, too low and in a few cases ground right off-the customer thinking the saw would cut quicker! I agree with you Land Designs about using more strokes of the file on one side. A lot of people just don't know about this.What amazes me more though is with the endless amount of different gadgets, guides and file holders available nowadays that inexperienced users still try to sharpen chains by sight only. Oregon have had the angle marked on the top of the teeth for a few years now, yet people still get it wrong. Some other brands may have it too.
The problem seems to be that saw users don't seem to read their owners manuals. Most have sharpening instructions now. Here in Australia now, to use a saw for paid employment we must do a comprehensive course to be qualified. This teaches users everything to do with saws. But the average home or weekend user usually has no one to turn to. Three times in that 10 years I worked on saws, customers brought in saws with the complaint that "it won't cut" or "it won't run properly". They had the bloody chains on backwards! TH-cam clips like yours Land Designs at least go some way to helping people. Good Stuff. It is a pleasure to use a properly sharpened saw as many have found out when given instructions and tips such as yours. By the way, Andrew Squires comment about cutting the Australian Eucalypt Box wood is spot on-cutting this stuff soon teaches you how to sharpen a chain properly, as you have to do it every 10-20 minutes! If it was any tougher I reckon it would be petrified. Best firewood in Aus though.
I sharpen from the rear of the saw to avoid inconstancy
Recently I switched my primary saw to the Stihl battery C Saw. This being the case I now try n touch up the blade and take a few strokes on each tooth each time I re charge the battery. Doing so given me noticeably more useful work out of one charge.......
bucked logs in a sample yard a sawmill for 7 years , first thing we did was grind rackers off, and start getting a good under cut to get an edge like filet knife. we used file guides and just ran on cutting tooth , but you do need a lot of power for this type of sharpening.
l have just bought a chain saw, so the first thing l do, is find out can you sharpen it. What you say make good sense, thanks for the info. all l need now is the gadget to do the job. -- l also liked the sharp focus close video. your a star. Thank you, -- uk
I use the 12 volt Oregon electric hand held sharpener and have had great luck with it, you just have to watch the angle and move the abrasive bit away carefully from the chisel edge so it doesn't dull it. I usually sharpen the chain on a medium size chainsaw every other gas tank refill and it only takes a couple of minutes, I also apply low pressure so it doesn't heat the chain up too much
The nice thing about the electric is you don't hit your knuckles. It is a bit slower then a file, and doesn't get quite as sharp, and you do have to be careful not to get the tooth hot and take the temper out of it. But then I use an angle grinder usually. lol.
That's all pretty good advice but your missing a couple of important points. Keep the chain tight when sharpening so it don't lean away from you when you push the file. Wipe the file after every tooth so the filings don't stick on the file and roll when you're filing and lift the file. Make sure you bar is against something solid or in a vice so it don't move away when pressure is applied. Works for me and I never use a guide I have a 96cc Sthil and a smaller one and it's Sthil all the way for me.
+George Daruda use chalk on your file !
if chalking the file you only need to very lightly tap it to clean it. i've used chalk when draw filling soft metals works a treat
Around every third fueling works for me. I only use the guide occasionally now, mainly to check it's at the right angle back in the workshop. I watch the thickness of the shavings and file the rakers to suit the job, which has led me to have different chains for hard and soft wood, with different height rakers. With shorter bars on a more powerful saw, you can lower the rakers and have thicker shavings, especially on soft wood, but with longer bars, less powerful saws or harder wood, higher rakers make more sense.
I agree with your three points. I would also add that every chain is unique, or will quickly becomes unique with use. Getting the most work out of a chain does NOT mean sharpening the least, or most often. It means sharpening the optimum amount at the optimum time, which I believe is the moment the saw's performance starts to lose its "edge" so to speak, then at the next fueling or other reason to stop, I quickly field sharpen it, and maybe clear debris. I sometimes even reverse the bar while working, but that usually gets done in the workshop along with more detailed sharpening and filing.
Blindly following (or setting) rules is ALWAYS a bad idea. Many comments below are well meaning people repeating the rules they follow, but change the wood, and their rules can become a positive hindrance. Sharpening a chain is a slowly built skill which improves with practice and understanding. There can be a lot of masculine pride tied up in it, and everyone's a critic. The guy who taught me was a past master in his sixties, who could file 72 teeth in under 5 minutes. It still takes me around ten, but maybe when I'm sixty, I'll have the same nack.
Good advice on different chains for different wood.
Production sawyers do not have this kind of time on their hands.
Take enough new or fresh chains with you to get through the day without having to spend any on-the-job time sharpening.
Started cutting trees half a century ago. I've used every sharpening method imaginable, and bench-mounted wheel or free-hand with a high-speed rotary is where I've settled, with a conventional file and guide not even qualifying anymore, just use the high-speed diamond bits for the rotary tool and don't overheat the teeth.
Ok .. me just learning here .. hopefully will get a electric tool sharpener soon .. now we beed better weather .. it WEATHER WARFARE see MIKE MORALES show ..and flatearth101
after 25 years of logging and brushcutting i've learned a thing or two on this subject.
What you call hook i call blade thickness and this points to whether you use an aggressive sharpening or a smooth sharpening. Older loggers often tend to have more aggressive sharpenings and i find this allows you to go 4-6 tanks between sharpenings. however when you do sharpen there is more visual damage and cutting with this type of chain it often tends to grab and chuck if you don't do it perfect. us oldtimers did not learn using the file guide and this is what permits us to go deeper in the chain and be more aggressive.
When your file is higher of the tooth as in when you use a file guide, the cut is smoother but you have to sharpen more often.
***** Blade thick what ???...Thickness ?...A chainsaw does not have a blade, it has a guide bar...
***** Having sharpened literally miles of saw-chain as chain saw mechanic, and later as commercial cutter and firewood processer I have always hand filed. No other tool I have EVER used compares to the sharpness of a hand filed edge, you are on track "cleaning out the gullet" as guides tend to be a shade on the wimpy side of safety verses real cutting, keep after it and learn to trust your eye and check with a guide if you are not sure of your accuaracy. Like shooting practice makes you better,
the jackel Old school Jackal, maybe my recent posts will be easier to understand, as some of the old terms are sure to mislead someone not from those days.
Ran chain saw for a living for 20 years, and most of the time when I filed my work was piling up. To file fast and accurate throw away the file guide and you need to learn to file with one hand because you will be applying a lot of pressure back towards the tooth and you will need the other hand to hold the bar and chain still. Always file the right side teeth from the left side of the saw, left side teeth from the right side if the saw
Thanks! It really makes a difference keeping a chain sharp. My saw is a bit underpowered, and I know the chain is sharp when it lugs down and really works.
A couple hints:
One thing I do as I sharpen is to turn the file in the guide every so often, to equalize wear on the file.
Another thing I do is put the saw on the workbench (stump, tailgate, whatever) with the blade pointed at my chest. But I don't really have a strong/weak hand, so that might just work for me.
I also put a drop of nail polish on a tooth when I start sharpening, so I know where I started. Easier to see than the master link.
Even the worst powerheads cut reasonably well with a well-sharpened chain.
'Ran saws for both residential tree work and logging for 40 years. Never used a file guide or gloves (except in deep winter.) Once you master sharpening from either side you teeth do not vary in length or angle after repeated filings. If you can't master sharpening perhaps the woods is not for yoou.
I dont get the gloves thing - it must be some kind of health and safety nonsense, you need to use hands without gloves so you can feel better how you are sharpening and you can touch the blades to feel if they are good. But you make a good point - in winter if its howling cold then wear gloves - haha.
There re protective gloves available (many only have chainsaw protection in the left hand - that is the one more frequently injured in chainsaw accidents). I don't own any, but I do wear regular gloves when I think of it: It's more for when I'm pulling brush out of the way than anything else - that buckthorn can be nasty stuff, and grabbing on to a poison ivy vine is no fun)
Robert Wright
I take a shot of durex. What would the bed of a crumby be like without tyree oil inc.
and really it doesn't matter if it's perfect or not. if you got a correction you can spot that and fix it in a second. after all that experience you got, even if it wasn't the right and exact length, to your eye it would be. loggers are or used to be kind of rough crowd.
I live in Va Bach, and I have a wood stove, and three saws, a electric Work, and two gas saws, both Stihls ones a MS250 the other is a MS290, and afer watching your video I went out and cut some logs I had dropped off with eth 250, It wasn;t makeing dust yet, but it did need sharpening, and I used your video, now that thing goes through Gum liek a hot knife through butter :) I'm serious, its faster now than when the chain was new, I'm downloading this video for future reference if ya dont mind
Also I just subcribed to your channel :)
About removing same amount of metal from both sides i have theory. I notised that the small teeths on file is made spiral all lenght of file like lines in firearm tubes to give rotation to the bullet. When i sharp one side of chain that file teeths removes metal up and out of the chain teeth and that side is sharp, but when i sharp other side of chain file teeths is going down the chain teeth and somehow dont remove enough metal, and that side is always dull. I think that is left side of chain. Unfortunatly they made all files with spiral in one side. I hope i was helpfull.
Thanx! Loved the video. I have now great success with this method 😊
I very seldom use a file guide, it slows me down. The tooth profile can be touched up in as little as three passes of the manual file. If I sharpen the correct profile out of the chain I use a rotary (Dermal) with a guide to bring it back to OEM.
Almost anyone can tell if the tooth is sharp with just a visual exam, use your finger if your eye site is less than par. Just don't feel it with a strong touch lest you cut yourself.
It is not rocket science. Most armatures neglect the chippers which require periodic maintenance.
Find it difficult to believe that people pay another to sharpen their chains.
+Stephen Johnson I agree to use the file "best".
First; quit using that file guide, use a good handle and give the file a 1/4 twist as you stroke the tooth.
Second; brush off the filings and tap the file after every single tooth. This will keep you from filing the filings over and over the file will last longer is the main purpose.
Bonus Tip of the day; run a putty knife in the grove of the bar you will pull out oil soaked saw dust.
+Stephen Johnson Some people are neither mechanically inclined, or simply don't want to be bothered with sharpening chains themselves. I prefer to do it myself because I know it was done right.
I have sharpened saws for many many years and I believe the best way is with a dremil tool every tankfull. Good Video
Nice video, i have been using chainsaw around my land for years, i think i am good at sharpening(my neighbors bring their chains to me to resharpen when they are messed up, different teeth lengths etc) and i am using guide too and i dont see anything wrong about it :D One thing is out of place for me here... sharpening after every tank of fuel? Aint nobody get time for that :D and you must be buying new chains every other day :D
When I worked in the bush I was taught by one of the best how to sharpen a chainsaw with a 3 square file or a specially made flat file with a triangular edge. Man those saws would cut 30% faster and last longer. Don't understand why you haven't discovered that yet.
Thats all I use is a flat file
I tree trimmed for a living in the 90s. I wasn't the owner of the business but we did massive chainsaw use and I don't think we used those, I'll have to check it out.
I never tried that I think I will try it . Do you turn the file a little as you go through the stroke? I too usually file a little between fill ups. I have a friend that just takes the chains to get them sharpened when they get dull. I only take them every once in a blue moon to have them machine sharpened.Thanks for the intel !