The Makerbot Replicator 5th gen also does the z axis auto adjustment before every print. The difference is that the smart extruder has a hall-effect sensor inside and there is a magnet mounted to the hotend that it uses. You still have to go through guided leveling every so often, but it uses the same system to do that too.
HI Angus, You didn't mention to have both the bed and nozzle heated to the correct print temps for setting the level and Z-height. Thermal expansion can play havoc with settings done when the machine is cold. One other thing. You discuss being accurate with the bed level settings but your reference thickness [ie the business card] could differ dramatically from card to card. I think you need to accurately measure your reference card to ensure that the height is correct. Otherwise you will end up with a level bed but a Z-height that is way off. Thanks for the great videos, as a new relative newbie to 3D printing, I always learn a lot from your YT output. Thanks again...
for the manual levelling, where you have to turn the wingnuts, i've tried and tried again, but don't know how to do it right, how much drag should there be on the paper assuming there should be drag in the first place?
Angus, for the Duplicator i3 (and clones), you really should NOT use the option "Disable steppers" when levelling, as you may throw your z-axis out of proper alignment while moving the axes manually. Instead, just just the "Home Z" menu option, which will activate only the Z-steppers and keep the X and Y steppers disabled (provided that they were already disabled, as they are after power on). If needed, you could press "Disable steppers" first, and the immediately "Home Z" to get into that same state where the Z-steppers hold their position and the other two are free to move.
Ask Holy Spirit to teach you and to guide you. I would recommend the TH-cam Cleveland street preachers and follow Jesus no man no religion. Be holy and obey Jesus. Hebrews 5:9 "salvation is for those who obey. Jesus says if you love me keep my commandments (John 14:15). Jesus even says if you keep my commandments then you shall abide in my love (John 15:10).
Very informative and helpful. I used a playing card but nothing would stick. Tried a sheet of paper folded in two (double thickness) and same result, finally tried one sheet of paper and all good. Thank you so much.
I do level my bed just by eye and never had a problem. Sometimes I select a skirt of at least 3 lines and adjust the 4 screws while it prints looking at the line that comes off
On my older M3D printer it has software that calibrates the print head to the bed, works good. On my Wanhao Duplicator i3 v2 I did the M3 nylon lock bolts on each bed posts to strengthen them and then more M3 bolts in the thumb wheel that replaces the leveling wing nuts. I check bed levels (Duplicator i3) about once a week and rarely is it too far out of level, if at all. And I agree, bed leveling is 101 and very important if you want good prints. :)
Ask Holy Spirit to teach you and to guide you. I would recommend the TH-cam Cleveland street preachers and follow Jesus no man no religion. Be holy and obey Jesus. Hebrews 5:9 "salvation is for those who obey. Jesus says if you love me keep my commandments (John 14:15). Jesus even says if you keep my commandments then you shall abide in my love (John 15:10).
I deleted my comment because I've been having first layer issues and trying anything to fix it and learned something in the process. As far as I can understand the paper leveling method is good enough for what its purpose is and that is to keep the nozzle from scraping the bed while printing the first layer. I finally noticed that the LCD showed Z value of .28 during the first layer. So basically the whole concept is to just keep the nozzle from scraping the bed and let the computer put the nozzle where it needs to be automatically. I burned a bootloader and updated to the newest marlin with my Raspberry Pie 4 a few weeks ago. I just replaced the bed springs and re-leveled with paper, reset firmware back to default settings, recalibrated my extruder through the hot end, updated to the new Cura 4.4 update. Testing again and hopefully it works better.
One thing I never see anybody mention is when leveling the bed make sure the z axis is level. You can swing your bed around all day trying to make it level but if the z isnt level all you are doing is compensating. Its easy to do just take a pair of digital calipers and measure the distance between the bottom and a smooth rod or something on the z thats at the same point on both sides
Ask Holy Spirit to teach you and to guide you. I would recommend the TH-cam Cleveland street preachers and follow Jesus no man no religion. Be holy and obey Jesus. Hebrews 5:9 "salvation is for those who obey. Jesus says if you love me keep my commandments (John 14:15). Jesus even says if you keep my commandments then you shall abide in my love (John 15:10).
excellent video. Wht? because for the longest time I was using a single sheet of paper and never quite getting the level right. Then by chance one day I used a piece of thin card and bingo! Perfect print a ever since!
I know this video is old, but I see this stuff on almost every video to date when it comes to manual adjustments. _Why not use feeler guages?_ There's a tool for most jobs, and using stuff like paper instead of feeler gauges here, for something this consequential for your prints, is like using a stretched rubber band to do the work of calipers, going of "the feel" of the rubber band tension. It's like 3-5 bucks for a set with angled ends (so you don't have to bend them to lay flat in the middle of a surface (like printer bed). By using feeler guages, you get highly accurate and repeatable results.
It's very confusing to me how there is a conflation of 'level', 'flat', and I think 'height', or 'nozzle height', these often get shoved into the term 'level'. Something can be level and not flat, or flat but perpendicular to the ground. Or, you can be perfectly level at the wrong level. Is leveling the surface making it level, or parallel to a plane the printer thinks is level? If the surface is flat, how far out-of-level can it get before there is a problem? And that is an ambiguous question. If the printer's idea of level is set to the flat printing surface, how far out-of-level, meaning "out-of-plumb", before their is a problem? I'm very new to this, old hands probably have no problem with the ambiguities, might not even realize how rife they are in their speech, but it can sure confuse inexperienced. .
I have a Monoprice Select V2 Mini. Just did a 9 hour print while I was gone in the day. Came home to find a total disaster with spewed filament EVERYWHERE. How high should the nozzle be off the bed? if I use a business card, should the nozzle be tight on the card, barely touching it, etc? Also, it has four screws on each corner of the bed that I have to manually tighten or loosen to level. How can I level each side to be exactly at the same height? Please help, thanks.
It's crazy it's 2017 and bed leveling is still a problem is it that they can't figure it out or is it to expensive to make a printer that eliminates that problem?
I was wondering about the following method (which I haven't tried yet): Instead of using a piece of paper and try to have the nozzle press at it at the same force in every point of the bed I thought about: 1. Calibrate the nozzle to exactly the biggest distance that *doesn't* allow inserting the piece of paper. 2. Compute the wanted distance through the slicer (or perhaps simply move the object you're printing to be in the 'air'). Why wouldn't this work?
I need someone to do a deep dive of the Ender 7. I can't find information that helps me and I am having nothing but issues with it. Too late to send it back, too expensive to give up on. Need help.
It’s October 2018 and I’ve just bought my first 3d printer - strange considering I’ve been doing electronics for over 30 years and find things like microcontrollers and fpga’s pretty familiar territory... - stranger in the fact I’ve got both a mini mill and a CNC router that I’ve had for a while now. So why it’s taken me so long to get a 3d printer, no clue... As for the video, I get how you don’t need exact precision 3D printing, but I’ve found the paper method doesn’t work out for me? My prints go so much better if I run with rice paper thin nozzle heights, and I’d say I’m pinching that paper. If I use a business card or even plane ol’ printer paper, my prints end up like balls of yarn......? I am installing a BLtouch, but it will require some setup as well. I guess go with what works the best for the offset? I think I’ll buy some cheap feeler gauges just to see some hard numbers, can’t hurt anyway.
Very helpfull video. I have a wanhao i3, but it seems the z-axis won't stay level. Every time i level it it looks fine, but when I start printing I need to adjust the bed because the nozzle is pushing on the bed surface (at right side). I'm now running with a bed which isn't level, but it's is parallel to the z-axis... It works... Somehow... Any suggestions on fixing the z-axis?
Hi, Kind of the same problem here. It seems my bed on the i3 has a dent in the middle. I could level the edges but in the middle part the paper sheet I'm using is of by about one millimeter. Has anyone a solution beside a glass bed? Cheers mates
I thought I was ready to operate one of these things but the tech is just too difficult for the average user still. My extruder jammed on my 2nd print, I disassembled it and after 2 days I got that working gain. My bed was smashing my extruder, I fixed that and then the bed refuses to move up from the floor now...so done!
i got one of those Tronxy X3 omg my first m/c it prints lots of birds nests/mess it does the level bit moves to start then winds up by about 5 mm ive taken to watching as many vids to find answers as the seller not helpful so having to learn this way i cant find where to adjust the program any help?
if i level the bed with 0.1 offset my total z of test cube will be 19.7 mm . If i level the bed 0.3 from the bed i will be spot on 20mm. So why this happens ?
Hi. I don't get it like for example at 03:30. If I had my nozzle at that distance of my bed I would just simply end up with a dirty nozzle pulling plastic clogs with it and a giant spaghetti chaos. My prints are almost fine but I gotta set my nozzle so I can barely move a thing sheet of standard printer paper underneath it while having to pull hard to move it. Anything more of a bed-nozzle distance and it's no adhesion and chaos. I have tried blue tape on hotbed, glue, hairspray but it doesn't change that rule of very tiny distance or chaos. My first layer is always very thin and sometimes the extruder retracts a small bit. but generally it works, just wondering if this is wrong. thx for any suggestions. thanks for your vids. they're great.
SMCG I have the same issue. I was able to solve it with glue stick but now its worse. For me, my bed material is just worn out. I am going to replace it with my spare print bed material, but then I am switching the Print Bite. I have come to realize most of my adhesion problems are probably because of the bed surface
3 is just enough and the printer leveling is very accurate and confident inspiring. The chassis is relatively strong and stable so flex is not a concern.
i converted an old printer from 4 screws to 3. so much easier. With 4 you need to adjust opposite sides simultaniously to avoid bending the structure. With 3 screws set the level of the bed is fully defined and fixed in all axis. There is only one correct length for the 4th to be at without stressing the frame.
Sorry to be a nuisance, but have you had any luck ripping 3D models from Unreal games? Also I enjoy your videos so much I will contribute to your video production this coming week, keep producing.
+Felipe Acevedo I have successfully ripped from Unreal Engine 3 using the method I describe in my 'chivalry' video, but I haven't yet pulled any Unreal Engine 4 files. You need a way to unpack .uasset files. I want to print from Ark - survival evolved which is based on UE4. Thanks for the support!
You might want to explain 'dags' to the non sheep shagging/shearing audience. Dingle-berry works over here. Suprised by your resistence to trivet levelling. This is the engineer's way to do it, quick and accurate. Four point leads to a distorted non-flat bed. US theodolites used to be four point. Needed two free hands spinning the (diaonal) wheels at the same rate in opposite directions. Do it wrong, you strain the frame and can lock up the levelling. European trivet theodolites levelled up one handed in half the time. Three legged stools are not about saving a stick!
When i first got my rigidbot i would level the bed and the center would still be off. Eventually i found out that the aluminum bed wasn't flat so i replaced it with glass.
Thank you again for your reply, your very gracious with your time. do you have a PayPal account, as Google wallet no longer works, or some other method of accepting payment.
+Felipe Acevedo No payment needed! If you would like you're welcome to join my Patreon however it's entirely optional - www.patreon.com/makersmuse?ty=h Cheers :)
My Ender 5 plus/ BTT MiniE3V3 took 3 qualified technicians 6 weeks to make work, Cost me a fortune and worked for about a week before destroying the PEI bed and nozzle. So i tryed replacing the nozzle, Reset the levels with feeler gauges, saved it to the epromm thing and pressed print. FAIL. Destroyed another 3 nozzles and the beds now had it. (reset up and saved each time) Why is it not remembering what ive saved? I think its time to throw the BTT stuff where it belongs. IN THE BIN.
If the space is more open and I can get my whole hand in it, I prefer wingnuts. But for my printer (duplicator i3) I like the thumbscrews so I can stick a finger over and adjust it
Once I get this thing dialed in I will print numbered wheels then install a mirror underneath the bed so I can see what number I dialed in. To HELL with all this lack of
+patrick4485 I only ever level the bed when nozzle and bed are hot. Why? Thermal expansion can throw off your entire bed a little, and your extruder even more (going from 20° to 230°C does move the atoms around quite a bit...) It's not a huge error, but still throws your nozzle way off depending on the way your printer is built. And if you have a little filament bugger stuck on your nozzle and calibrate it cold, you will probably be way too far away once you start the print. Just remember, heated stuff is hot, so watch what you touch... or protect yourself.
Bull Turd! 80 plus attempts Glass bed, factory bed, glue or not, paper or feeler gauge, tight or loose, high flow, slow first layers higher nozzle temp, standard drive or direct drive, brim, none, raft, none, this hobby is not about making anything. It is pure plastic waste making. A million Bengies to look at the faults and bin them...
Tom, this video is from 2016. The CR-10 and Ender 3 didn't even exist. Regardless, they are all leveled the same as the Wanhao i3 demonstrated at 4:40.
Dude thank you so much! I've been using a sheet of paper to level my bed and wondering why my first layer keeps getting squished to oblivion, used a business card and got a perfect layer first time! I have an Ender 3 with a 2mm thick glass bed if anyone wants to know.
Ask Holy Spirit to teach you and to guide you. I would recommend the TH-cam Cleveland street preachers and follow Jesus no man no religion. Be holy and obey Jesus. Hebrews 5:9 "salvation is for those who obey. Jesus says if you love me keep my commandments (John 14:15). Jesus even says if you keep my commandments then you shall abide in my love (John 15:10).
I'm not a fan of using a spacer card (business card). I have a FlashForge Creator Pro which uses manual leveling with three points of adjustment. First thing I did was chuck the card. Instead, I use blade type gap gauges. I admit I haven't got a solid rule for the actual distance to aim for. I've been using 0.2mm because the nozzles are 0.4mm. I set the extruders over each adjustment point and either the 0.2mm blade will clear the gap or it won't. I tested for warpage using a straight edge. Before I do the leveling procedure, I work the springs. It seems they can shift about. I start at the front and then work clockwise. Once I've got each nozzle set at the adjustment points, I try a few random points on the bed. Seems to work for that part. I think the real challenge for me now, as I'm still a neophyte, is working out the proper settings in Simplyfy3D.
Probably! A lot of my machines come from China directly, I've even visited one of the companies over there (Shining3D). In contrast, you're unlikely to see a Lulzbot or Ultimaker on my channel - they're just too costly to import.
HEy angus my printer manufacturer (CR-10) says to use a A4 sheet of paper which has a thickness of 0.1mm a bussines card is way thicker. Should i listen to them or you?? I learnt all i know from you!
The statement he made - set the nozzle height to fractionally less than the layer height - is the important bit as you need the 1st layer to squish out just a teeny bit more than the rest in order to grip the bed, so that card may have been around 230gsm board, for an initial layer of 300um. There's a nice table here for you to pick the right weight: www.zxprinter.com/support/paper-thickness.html. But why not just stop using scraps of paper completely? Paper is fine for bills, boxes and bum-wipe, but not so hot for precision measurement at the micron scale. Splash out on a set of steel feeler gauges and be 100% confident in the gapping you set; no grabbing, tearing, curled edges, and a good steel gauge will cut any ooze from the nozzle as you probe so you can be confident you're measuring from the brass not a glob of plastic. Because the metal doesn't deflect into the holes at the bed mounts, you can also set the gap directly over the mounting points. That means once you've set the corner, it's done - you don't have to go twice around every time. Literally halves the levelling time! I got a set from Halfords for £4 - USians near a Hodor Fight can get a set under $5 plus tax.
baruch shad I was wondering the same thing. But, I realize now what I did wrong recently when I suddenly had issues printing. On my i3, if I print at .3 or .4 then a business card makes sense. For .1mm layer, a sheet of paper.
please someone help me with something: my printer always just moves the Z axis up by one every time the printing starts. this doesnt happen on the other layers above layer 1, but what is the point if the 1st layer doesnt stick at all. i level my nozzle perfectly, and when it starts printing it just decides to not fucking listen to me and the nozzle is too high again. how the F can i fix this? i own that one printer for over a year now and nothing like that ever happened, i didnt even change anything on the printer, slicer, firmware, NOTHING and it decides to do THIS outta nowhere.
@@jordybernaert3656 i fixed it, the fix was actually really simple, just download the "Z axis offset" plugin in cura, and set the axis -xx so that the nozzle is perfect. but dont set it too low since you can reaaaly mess up your bed
Hello, I have a question. I am using Cura and an Ender 3 V2 When the printer made a perfect sticking 3 layers raft he begin printing to high. The layers wont stick the 4th layer. How can I solve this problem? Thanks,
Angus I got the Prusa I3 Mk2. good printer fully assembled. However going through the menu options ,etc. I clicked on Calibrate XYZ, so the printer went ahead and did its thing, however when it comes to the nozzle height I am a bit worried that I may not be setting it correctly. The Live Z calibration is a great option but when do you really know if your setting is the best possible setting. ? When I print , I have been able to see that the back of my first print is no longer shinny or fused together like I used to have it. Is there any feedback you can provide here? I also noticing that my prints are way more shinier not sure why. I am using Colorfab PLA.
Jordan W I’ve been looking for tips on this. Do you heat it to the temperature the material you run? If so, how do you not burn yourself or the paper as you make contact with the nozzle and the bed?
"not too cloes, but not too far" .... OMG, I would soooo like some exact measurements to know where I should start. Starting with 3d-printinng, A8, having tried the original bed, different kind of tapes, 3dlac, hairspray, gluestick, glass, ... and about 85% of prints have come loose and where destroyed ... tried tuning bed with feelergauges at 0.2, 0.25, 0.15, 0.1,... papertest, Loosing hope here.
Hehe, it depends on the printer, layer height setting and print surface. Get some buildtak or the chinese clone of the stuff, and a feeler guage if you want to be precise. A first layer height of 50 to 75% of your layer height is a good area to aim for. Hope that helps! The A8 is only as good as you can tinker it to be.
I know mate, it indeed needs lots of tinkering. Now there is somthing new here, I heared you had to choose a first layer that was thicker then normal layers so to get squiching .. but you tell to take only 50% ... I 'll test in that direction. thx for taking the time to respond en please keep up the great video's!
With PLA on my ender 3d pro I can only get prints to stick when using a .156mm feeler gauge. Decided to print some ABS for the first time and having an even harder time to get it to stick properly. Whether it be on a glass bed or the original print bed. Im using a .5 nozzle 90 degrees bed temp and 245 for the extruder. Ive had a BLtouch for a while but never figured out how to get it to work and of course my print bed is slightly warped in the middle and the glass bed I got is also warped.. However, the normal bed seems to be pretty much flat when at 90 degrees (when at 60 degrees for PLA ill set the corners at .150mm and the middle will be more than .350mm Which seems like a lot. Plus no one sells new aluminum beds. I ordered some G10 I guess we will see how that works.
i want to replace the original melzi creality v1.1.3 ender 3 board that has the input voltage 24v and the mk10 hot end with mainboard mks gen l v1.0 plus tft 2.8 touch screen and titan aero 1.75mm 24v, is this possible ? -on my creality mainboard at ''fans, hot bed, nozzle '' write 12v, but i measure that and i was expected to be 24 but it was 12 v both -so my nozzle theoretical is 24, but it has 12 volts on the mainboard, that is a problem? if i will buy the titan aero hot end what voltage do i have to buy it ? -the melzi mainboard from creality has a ''atmega1284p microproccesor'',but the mks gen l has ''32-bit STM32 microprocessor'' -is that a problem if mks gen l has a 32-bits microprocessor? i mean if it has bore bits that the atmega. Can it burn ? -is the melzi mainboard has theoretica 3* 12 v blocks but in reality 3* 24 volts what voltage need the mks gen l board to have ? if it has 12 volts the al that 3 components to wich need 24 v is going to be any problem ? -that 3 component ''fans, hot end, hot bed '' are in reality 24 volts, the matter if on that mainboard is 12 or 24 volts ?
How level is level enough? I was recently creating a storage box for a machinist's deflection meter when it occurred to me that I could use the deflection meter to level the build plate. So, I created fixture that holds the deflection meter on the hot end with the deflection meter's contact point inline with the extruder. Now all four corners of my Monoprice mini are at the same level. The build pate is not as flat as expected. The center of the plate is 1 to 2 thousandths off from the corners. Oh well.
Hey Angus, I'm trying to change filament and print a 3rd color at the top of my print but at the same later as another colour using z hop can I remove the support and start at print at 15mm of the bed but onto a part that is already there?
What is a good nozzle level that you suggest. I’m kinda new to this and nothing is working anymore. I think this is my nozzle height and I put it at 0.0mm and even that looked to high. Please help
I know this is an old video. But leveling machine tools in industry is done with 3 points typically. It's much easier to set a level plane that way then add feet or shims
Been struggling with nozzle height and bed leveling. Found out that leveling the bed when its heated is important and i was told the thickness of a single sheet of paper. That caused many problems later down the line as it was far to thin.
6:38 Love this printer. As I am a bit pedantic I opted for using a dial indicator to initialy set my bed manualy the best that it is possible. Then do the auto level so that you get minimum correction. My theory is that the better the bed is set the better the outcome. From alo CNC machining days lol.
Ask Holy Spirit to teach you and to guide you. I would recommend the TH-cam Cleveland street preachers and follow Jesus no man no religion. Be holy and obey Jesus. Hebrews 5:9 "salvation is for those who obey. Jesus says if you love me keep my commandments (John 14:15). Jesus even says if you keep my commandments then you shall abide in my love (John 15:10).
My printer has 3 manual screws, 2 up front and one in back. Only problem is you level all 3 points but the back corners are conveniently lower than the leveled points. Pretty sure shimming won't fix this and the aluminum plate needs to be fly cut.
I'm currently staring at my computer screen, typing this comment, but a moment ago I was staring at my BLTouch sensor that finally arrived from South Korea a couple days ago...which I keep procrastinating on installing as I dread the currently well-bundled wires turning into a tumbleweed, dealing with extruder carriage dis/re-assembly, and hoping my fingers can get into the board's enclosure without breaking something and/or requiring me to disassemble even more crap. Ugh, just writing that paragraph gave me a headache. :-/ I'll give someone $20 plus the old/current auto-level sensor as payment to come do it for me while I drink booze and watch! :D
Why are you not happy with only three adjustment points? That's the most rigid option. A chair with three legs can't wiggle, one with four legs can do it anytime. Guess why photographers use TRIpods and not QUADpods? With four adjustment screws and a large enough print bed you might even warp the bed, impossible to make that mistake with only three. Three ist good! Greetings from a surveyor whose measuring equipment stands on tripods and has three levelling screws for each instrument. :-)
I learned the hard way about setting the correct nozzle height yesterday when the extruder started clicking on the lower layers and I went mad stripping everything down and looking for a clogged nozzle, ended up cleaning it the wrong way, damaged the nozzle and it made no difference until I realised I'd screwed up. so yeah very important! Still despite the damaged nozzle it still printed a passable (if slightly blobby) benchy. New nozzles on order.
My Prusa i3 has the four corner screws with springs. I locked one corner by removing the spring and secured it with lock nuts. I just set the other three to that one now. I print on glass and have several pieces so I just remove the glass and print and fit another to carry on printing without having to wait for it to cool down. Problem is all glass is not the exact same thickness. So now I'm fitting a servo type auto level using Marlin. Just about got it working and fine tuning as we speak, so to speak. Keep up the good work and vids Angus....
The MP Select Mini is a bit of a pain to level. It uses the pretty standard manual four-point level, but for some reason they put the screws such that you have to tighten them using a hex key *from the top*. So you have to check the level, move the head out of the way, adjust, move the head back, check again...
On the Wanhao i3, I use a relatively thin sheet of note paper with one fold on one side. I set the bed level so that I can't feel the single sheet, but the double layer offers some resistance and it's still easy to pull the fold through the gap between the print head and bed (with significant resistance). This works really well at 0.2mm, but ends up being a bit too close for 0.1mm. I'm using Simplify3D to slice. Which brings me to my point... The zero level for the printer that I have set is some known offset from the print bed. Yet, there's no setting for this in Simplify3D: the wizard UI recommendation is to set the bed level to about where I have it, but for 0.1mm layer prints, I would like the printer to start 0.05mm higher and at 0.2mm, use the default offset (so relatively speaking 0mm). Using default settings, 0.1mm PLA prints actually stick a bit too well and the first layer is too thin in some places (the brim will sometimes nearly disappear). I just read the tutorial on first layer height at Simplify3D. They recommend setting the first layer height for thin layer prints to 200% or more. I suppose I'll try 150% or 200% and I bet that will solve my issue... Essentially the first layer will then print as if the whole print was 0.15mm or 0.2mm, giving a bit more margin of error for bed level variations. A business card (like in your video) seems awfully thick compared to what I'm using.
Just did your upgrade on my CR10 S5 and worked brilliantly. I used a slightly more powerful heater at 1000w and the bed hits 70 in 1 min 10 sec. It does warp the bed at 135 in just 2 min 40. So I guess I will have to upgrade to a different type of alloy. No complaints thought the extra speed in heating is fantastic! Thank you for your video and helping us all with your talent. Cheers.
I really am so fed up with my printer because of bed warp. If I had a shop locally that would Tool Plate me a replacement with the holes countersunk I would grab them but after 3 things coming to me, for this printer, and all were warped and bent I have no trust in a 40 dollar tool plate that has to be mailed to me.
An issue I am running into is the printer will lay the trim line flawlessly and then when it proceeds to actually print the first layer of the model, it just wont stick. The trim line sticks but the center doesn't. I've adjusted the height at least eighty times in the last two days. Any suggestions?
A plane is defined by three points. So why not use three screws? Four may make for a more "solid" bed but in theory the fourth screw could bend the plane. Thoughts?
Don't know if you still monitor this old video or not. But...My Tevo Tornado prints just fine till I get about an inch up and then it knocks things over.
Couldn't I just use two spirit levels to level the bed of the Cocoon Create or other i3 clones? One to make sure the printer itself is level and one to make sure the bed is level.
what do i do when the bed is as far down as it goes and the nozzle still goes further down. how can I adjust the nozzle height without doing it ever single time i print while its printing
“As long as you get a distance that’s not to close or not to far you’ll be okay” yeah thanks 😂
I know Im pretty off topic but do anybody know of a good place to stream new movies online ?
@Enrique Quinn i watch on FlixZone. You can find it on google :)
@Esteban Brian Definitely, I have been using Flixzone for since march myself :)
@Esteban Brian thank you, signed up and it seems like a nice service :D I really appreciate it !
@Enrique Quinn No problem xD
The Makerbot Replicator 5th gen also does the z axis auto adjustment before every print. The difference is that the smart extruder has a hall-effect sensor inside and there is a magnet mounted to the hotend that it uses. You still have to go through guided leveling every so often, but it uses the same system to do that too.
HI Angus,
You didn't mention to have both the bed and nozzle heated to the correct print temps for setting the level and Z-height. Thermal expansion can play havoc with settings done when the machine is cold.
One other thing. You discuss being accurate with the bed level settings but your reference thickness [ie the business card] could differ dramatically from card to card. I think you need to accurately measure your reference card to ensure that the height is correct. Otherwise you will end up with a level bed but a Z-height that is way off.
Thanks for the great videos, as a new relative newbie to 3D printing, I always learn a lot from your YT output. Thanks again...
for the manual levelling, where you have to turn the wingnuts, i've tried and tried again, but don't know how to do it right, how much drag should there be on the paper assuming there should be drag in the first place?
just get that same amount of drag on all points. don't worry about how much. just EVEN. then you can adjust the default tip position later.
@@chrishayes5755 Thanks captain
Angus, for the Duplicator i3 (and clones), you really should NOT use the option "Disable steppers" when levelling, as you may throw your z-axis out of proper alignment while moving the axes manually. Instead, just just the "Home Z" menu option, which will activate only the Z-steppers and keep the X and Y steppers disabled (provided that they were already disabled, as they are after power on). If needed, you could press "Disable steppers" first, and the immediately "Home Z" to get into that same state where the Z-steppers hold their position and the other two are free to move.
I can't find that option on my Geeetech i3. Can you be more specific where I find it?
minecrafter0505 Quick Settings, disable stepper
Ask Holy Spirit to teach you and to guide
you. I would recommend the TH-cam Cleveland street preachers and follow Jesus no man no religion. Be holy and obey Jesus. Hebrews 5:9 "salvation is for those who obey. Jesus says if you love me keep my commandments (John 14:15). Jesus even says if you keep my commandments then you shall abide in my love (John 15:10).
Very informative and helpful. I used a playing card but nothing would stick. Tried a sheet of paper folded in two (double thickness) and same result, finally tried one sheet of paper and all good. Thank you so much.
I do level my bed just by eye and never had a problem.
Sometimes I select a skirt of at least 3 lines and adjust the 4 screws while it prints looking at the line that comes off
Congrats on the 100,000 subscribers!
I would highly recommend investing in a set of feeler gauges and using them instead of a business card. At $3-$5 is a very worthwhile investment!
VAXHeadroom what is feeler gauge
Got one from amazon, thanks. What’s the right gap for PLA and PETG?
@@ludovic2003 I use 0.2 mm for a 0.4mm nozzle
On my older M3D printer it has software that calibrates the print head to the bed, works good. On my Wanhao Duplicator i3 v2 I did the M3 nylon lock bolts on each bed posts to strengthen them and then more M3 bolts in the thumb wheel that replaces the leveling wing nuts. I check bed levels (Duplicator i3) about once a week and rarely is it too far out of level, if at all. And I agree, bed leveling is 101 and very important if you want good prints. :)
Ask Holy Spirit to teach you and to guide
you. I would recommend the TH-cam Cleveland street preachers and follow Jesus no man no religion. Be holy and obey Jesus. Hebrews 5:9 "salvation is for those who obey. Jesus says if you love me keep my commandments (John 14:15). Jesus even says if you keep my commandments then you shall abide in my love (John 15:10).
If you could show how to set the nozzle height on the ended 3 and ended 3 pro that would be awesome I haven’t been able to figure it out
I deleted my comment because I've been having first layer issues and trying anything to fix it and learned something in the process. As far as I can understand the paper leveling method is good enough for what its purpose is and that is to keep the nozzle from scraping the bed while printing the first layer. I finally noticed that the LCD showed Z value of .28 during the first layer. So basically the whole concept is to just keep the nozzle from scraping the bed and let the computer put the nozzle where it needs to be automatically. I burned a bootloader and updated to the newest marlin with my Raspberry Pie 4 a few weeks ago. I just replaced the bed springs and re-leveled with paper, reset firmware back to default settings, recalibrated my extruder through the hot end, updated to the new Cura 4.4 update. Testing again and hopefully it works better.
Awesome video man!
PS: you're lav' mic sounds great!
One thing I never see anybody mention is when leveling the bed make sure the z axis is level. You can swing your bed around all day trying to make it level but if the z isnt level all you are doing is compensating. Its easy to do just take a pair of digital calipers and measure the distance between the bottom and a smooth rod or something on the z thats at the same point on both sides
Ask Holy Spirit to teach you and to guide
you. I would recommend the TH-cam Cleveland street preachers and follow Jesus no man no religion. Be holy and obey Jesus. Hebrews 5:9 "salvation is for those who obey. Jesus says if you love me keep my commandments (John 14:15). Jesus even says if you keep my commandments then you shall abide in my love (John 15:10).
Will the level have to be done all the time after each model. Or after turning on the printer.
i used a dial gauge to level my bed and use the babystep z offset for the nozzle height
excellent video. Wht? because for the longest time I was using a single sheet of paper and never quite getting the level right. Then by chance one day I used a piece of thin card and bingo! Perfect print a ever since!
I know this video is old, but I see this stuff on almost every video to date when it comes to manual adjustments. _Why not use feeler guages?_
There's a tool for most jobs, and using stuff like paper instead of feeler gauges here, for something this consequential for your prints, is like using a stretched rubber band to do the work of calipers, going of "the feel" of the rubber band tension.
It's like 3-5 bucks for a set with angled ends (so you don't have to bend them to lay flat in the middle of a surface (like printer bed). By using feeler guages, you get highly accurate and repeatable results.
Yep, that's the approach Ive moved to since this vid!
Thank you! for your insight, your experience is greatly appreciated.
+Felipe Acevedo No worries!
best tool ever for 3d prints, hanging on ur wall lol the hammer!!
It's very confusing to me how there is a conflation of 'level', 'flat', and I think 'height', or 'nozzle height', these often get shoved into the term 'level'. Something can be level and not flat, or flat but perpendicular to the ground. Or, you can be perfectly level at the wrong level.
Is leveling the surface making it level, or parallel to a plane the printer thinks is level? If the surface is flat, how far out-of-level can it get before there is a problem? And that is an ambiguous question. If the printer's idea of level is set to the flat printing surface, how far out-of-level, meaning "out-of-plumb", before their is a problem?
I'm very new to this, old hands probably have no problem with the ambiguities, might not even realize how rife they are in their speech, but it can sure confuse inexperienced. .
I have a Monoprice Select V2 Mini. Just did a 9 hour print while I was gone in the day. Came home to find a total disaster with spewed filament EVERYWHERE. How high should the nozzle be off the bed? if I use a business card, should the nozzle be tight on the card, barely touching it, etc? Also, it has four screws on each corner of the bed that I have to manually tighten or loosen to level. How can I level each side to be exactly at the same height? Please help, thanks.
Instead of using a piece of paper go get a set of "gap gauges". they can usually be found a automotive stores and will have repeatable accuracy.
It's crazy it's 2017 and bed leveling is still a problem is it that they can't figure it out or is it to expensive to make a printer that eliminates that problem?
balancenoptions1322 you can make a career out of making sure things are level.
I was wondering about the following method (which I haven't tried yet):
Instead of using a piece of paper and try to have the nozzle press at it at the same force in every point of the bed I thought about:
1. Calibrate the nozzle to exactly the biggest distance that *doesn't* allow inserting the piece of paper.
2. Compute the wanted distance through the slicer (or perhaps simply move the object you're printing to be in the 'air').
Why wouldn't this work?
I need someone to do a deep dive of the Ender 7. I can't find information that helps me and I am having nothing but issues with it. Too late to send it back, too expensive to give up on. Need help.
It’s October 2018 and I’ve just bought my first 3d printer - strange considering I’ve been doing electronics for over 30 years and find things like microcontrollers and fpga’s pretty familiar territory... - stranger in the fact I’ve got both a mini mill and a CNC router that I’ve had for a while now. So why it’s taken me so long to get a 3d printer, no clue... As for the video, I get how you don’t need exact precision 3D printing, but I’ve found the paper method doesn’t work out for me? My prints go so much better if I run with rice paper thin nozzle heights, and I’d say I’m pinching that paper. If I use a business card or even plane ol’ printer paper, my prints end up like balls of yarn......? I am installing a BLtouch, but it will require some setup as well. I guess go with what works the best for the offset? I think I’ll buy some cheap feeler gauges just to see some hard numbers, can’t hurt anyway.
Very helpfull video.
I have a wanhao i3, but it seems the z-axis won't stay level. Every time i level it it looks fine, but when I start printing I need to adjust the bed because the nozzle is pushing on the bed surface (at right side). I'm now running with a bed which isn't level, but it's is parallel to the z-axis... It works... Somehow... Any suggestions on fixing the z-axis?
Hi,
Kind of the same problem here. It seems my bed on the i3 has a dent in the middle. I could level the edges but in the middle part the paper sheet I'm using is of by about one millimeter.
Has anyone a solution beside a glass bed?
Cheers mates
I thought I was ready to operate one of these things but the tech is just too difficult for the average user still. My extruder jammed on my 2nd print, I disassembled it and after 2 days I got that working gain. My bed was smashing my extruder, I fixed that and then the bed refuses to move up from the floor now...so done!
i got one of those Tronxy X3 omg my first m/c it prints lots of birds nests/mess it does the level bit moves to start then winds up by about 5 mm ive taken to watching as many vids to find answers as the seller not helpful so having to learn this way i cant find where to adjust the program any help?
if i level the bed with 0.1 offset my total z of test cube will be 19.7 mm . If i level the bed 0.3 from the bed i will be spot on 20mm. So why this happens ?
you should 3d print a battle bot next :)
Hi. I don't get it like for example at 03:30. If I had my nozzle at that distance of my bed I would just simply end up with a dirty nozzle pulling plastic clogs with it and a giant spaghetti chaos. My prints are almost fine but I gotta set my nozzle so I can barely move a thing sheet of standard printer paper underneath it while having to pull hard to move it. Anything more of a bed-nozzle distance and it's no adhesion and chaos. I have tried blue tape on hotbed, glue, hairspray but it doesn't change that rule of very tiny distance or chaos. My first layer is always very thin and sometimes the extruder retracts a small bit. but generally it works, just wondering if this is wrong. thx for any suggestions. thanks for your vids. they're great.
SMCG I have the same issue. I was able to solve it with glue stick but now its worse. For me, my bed material is just worn out. I am going to replace it with my spare print bed material, but then I am switching the Print Bite. I have come to realize most of my adhesion problems are probably because of the bed surface
Ultimakers have the 3 thumb screw system as well, absolutely infuriating to learn but once you do it enough it's not too bad.
They are the easiest.
I've never used a printer without 3 so I have no personal experience but I can't imagine why 4 would be harder, care to explain?
3 is just enough and the printer leveling is very accurate and confident inspiring.
The chassis is relatively strong and stable so flex is not a concern.
i converted an old printer from 4 screws to 3. so much easier. With 4 you need to adjust opposite sides simultaniously to avoid bending the structure. With 3 screws set the level of the bed is fully defined and fixed in all axis. There is only one correct length for the 4th to be at without stressing the frame.
+Scienteer or to put it another way. A three legged table never wobbles, but a four legged one almost always does.
DO ONE ON ANET A8!!!😁😁
Feeler gauge may work better than a business card
Sorry to be a nuisance, but have you had any luck ripping 3D models from Unreal games? Also I enjoy your videos so much I will contribute to your video production this coming week, keep producing.
+Felipe Acevedo I have successfully ripped from Unreal Engine 3 using the method I describe in my 'chivalry' video, but I haven't yet pulled any Unreal Engine 4 files. You need a way to unpack .uasset files. I want to print from Ark - survival evolved which is based on UE4. Thanks for the support!
You might want to explain 'dags' to the non sheep shagging/shearing audience. Dingle-berry works over here.
Suprised by your resistence to trivet levelling. This is the engineer's way to do it, quick and accurate. Four point leads to a distorted non-flat bed.
US theodolites used to be four point. Needed two free hands spinning the (diaonal) wheels at the same rate in opposite directions. Do it wrong, you strain the frame and can lock up the levelling. European trivet theodolites levelled up one handed in half the time.
Three legged stools are not about saving a stick!
When i first got my rigidbot i would level the bed and the center would still be off. Eventually i found out that the aluminum bed wasn't flat so i replaced it with glass.
+Panoreth 3D Printing Ahhh bugger... nothing worse than a bowed print bed.
Thank you again for your reply, your very gracious with your time. do you have a PayPal account, as Google wallet no longer works, or some other method of accepting payment.
+Felipe Acevedo No payment needed! If you would like you're welcome to join my Patreon however it's entirely optional - www.patreon.com/makersmuse?ty=h Cheers :)
What T-shirt is that?
My Ender 5 plus/ BTT MiniE3V3 took 3 qualified technicians 6 weeks to make work, Cost me a fortune and worked for about a week before destroying the PEI bed and nozzle. So i tryed replacing the nozzle, Reset the levels with feeler gauges, saved it to the epromm thing and pressed print. FAIL. Destroyed another 3 nozzles and the beds now had it. (reset up and saved each time) Why is it not remembering what ive saved? I think its time to throw the BTT stuff where it belongs. IN THE BIN.
Am I the only one who prefers wing nuts to thumbscrews?
Nope I use Wing nuts to take the print off,
If the space is more open and I can get my whole hand in it, I prefer wingnuts. But for my printer (duplicator i3) I like the thumbscrews so I can stick a finger over and adjust it
Once I get this thing dialed in I will print numbered wheels then install a mirror underneath the bed so I can see what number I dialed in. To HELL with all this lack of
Would love to hack a cheap gyro to it to adjust itself for weight on large and heavy items stainless steel ESPECIALLY.
Next time can you use a 3D printer pro
No prusa? :(
lol look when this was uploaded the prusa mk2 wasn't even released :P It's auto mesh bed level - no tutorial needed!
How long did it take ya to level wanhao ? ;) #ibeatthesmartkids
Some time -.-
Meanwhile thise with large printers are left out.
SQUISH THAT FILAMENT!
For the Wanhao level your bed when heated!! remeber springs change when heated!!!
+patrick4485 I sometimes fine tune while hot but haven't had an issue so far... the bed is way too hot to hold onto properly when heated!
+patrick4485 You are correct but not for the right reason :-)
The springs do not set the height it is the length of the screws between head and nut.
+Maker's Muse come one use gloves if your finger are sensitive ;-) I changed butterfly nuts with thumb screws. Keep it up my friend!
+patrick4485 I only ever level the bed when nozzle and bed are hot. Why? Thermal expansion can throw off your entire bed a little, and your extruder even more (going from 20° to 230°C does move the atoms around quite a bit...) It's not a huge error, but still throws your nozzle way off depending on the way your printer is built. And if you have a little filament bugger stuck on your nozzle and calibrate it cold, you will probably be way too far away once you start the print.
Just remember, heated stuff is hot, so watch what you touch... or protect yourself.
+ExtraBase yes that is the same as I said. thnkx for supporting my comment.
Bull Turd! 80 plus attempts Glass bed, factory bed, glue or not, paper or feeler gauge, tight or loose, high flow, slow first layers higher nozzle temp, standard drive or direct drive, brim, none, raft, none, this hobby is not about making anything.
It is pure plastic waste making.
A million Bengies to look at the faults and bin them...
No ender 3, cr-10, a8? This was a waste of my time.
Tom, this video is from 2016. The CR-10 and Ender 3 didn't even exist. Regardless, they are all leveled the same as the Wanhao i3 demonstrated at 4:40.
@@MakersMuse ahhh, ok thanks. Having problems with my ender 3. Just really frust rated right now. Sorry.
No worries, I hope you didn't get a bowed plate because then it'll never be properly level - get a straight edge across it to check.
@@MakersMuse will do it now
I just tired again, to check before bedtime here in the us.
i'll show you the results tomorrow.
Thank you so much.
Dude thank you so much! I've been using a sheet of paper to level my bed and wondering why my first layer keeps getting squished to oblivion, used a business card and got a perfect layer first time! I have an Ender 3 with a 2mm thick glass bed if anyone wants to know.
Ask Holy Spirit to teach you and to guide
you. I would recommend the TH-cam Cleveland street preachers and follow Jesus no man no religion. Be holy and obey Jesus. Hebrews 5:9 "salvation is for those who obey. Jesus says if you love me keep my commandments (John 14:15). Jesus even says if you keep my commandments then you shall abide in my love (John 15:10).
@@connorlancaster7541 spam
I'm not a fan of using a spacer card (business card). I have a FlashForge Creator Pro which uses manual leveling with three points of adjustment. First thing I did was chuck the card. Instead, I use blade type gap gauges. I admit I haven't got a solid rule for the actual distance to aim for. I've been using 0.2mm because the nozzles are 0.4mm. I set the extruders over each adjustment point and either the 0.2mm blade will clear the gap or it won't. I tested for warpage using a straight edge. Before I do the leveling procedure, I work the springs. It seems they can shift about. I start at the front and then work clockwise. Once I've got each nozzle set at the adjustment points, I try a few random points on the bed. Seems to work for that part.
I think the real challenge for me now, as I'm still a neophyte, is working out the proper settings in Simplyfy3D.
Better to modify the print head and do 1 adjustment from the top,,
Dang Angus, out of everyone on the whole wide internet, you have the most printers I have never even heard of. Maybe because you're in Australia?
Probably! A lot of my machines come from China directly, I've even visited one of the companies over there (Shining3D). In contrast, you're unlikely to see a Lulzbot or Ultimaker on my channel - they're just too costly to import.
HEy angus my printer manufacturer (CR-10) says to use a A4 sheet of paper which has a thickness of 0.1mm a bussines card is way thicker. Should i listen to them or you?? I learnt all i know from you!
The statement he made - set the nozzle height to fractionally less than the layer height - is the important bit as you need the 1st layer to squish out just a teeny bit more than the rest in order to grip the bed, so that card may have been around 230gsm board, for an initial layer of 300um. There's a nice table here for you to pick the right weight: www.zxprinter.com/support/paper-thickness.html.
But why not just stop using scraps of paper completely? Paper is fine for bills, boxes and bum-wipe, but not so hot for precision measurement at the micron scale. Splash out on a set of steel feeler gauges and be 100% confident in the gapping you set; no grabbing, tearing, curled edges, and a good steel gauge will cut any ooze from the nozzle as you probe so you can be confident you're measuring from the brass not a glob of plastic. Because the metal doesn't deflect into the holes at the bed mounts, you can also set the gap directly over the mounting points. That means once you've set the corner, it's done - you don't have to go twice around every time. Literally halves the levelling time! I got a set from Halfords for £4 - USians near a Hodor Fight can get a set under $5 plus tax.
baruch shad I was wondering the same thing. But, I realize now what I did wrong recently when I suddenly had issues printing. On my i3, if I print at .3 or .4 then a business card makes sense. For .1mm layer, a sheet of paper.
would you recomend using a meshuring clock thing basicly a mecanical caliper but on an arm and a magnetic base, to level my bed
No as the surrounding surface will not be level to the printer. The printer can be at an angle and still print well if it is trammed.
You have no idea about the appreciation I have for your channel. Truly a master of your craft. 🖨️
great video. could you do one on start and end G code. That would be a good video
please someone help me with something: my printer always just moves the Z axis up by one every time the printing starts. this doesnt happen on the other layers above layer 1, but what is the point if the 1st layer doesnt stick at all. i level my nozzle perfectly, and when it starts printing it just decides to not fucking listen to me and the nozzle is too high again. how the F can i fix this? i own that one printer for over a year now and nothing like that ever happened, i didnt even change anything on the printer, slicer, firmware, NOTHING and it decides to do THIS outta nowhere.
I have exactly the same problem and i don’t find an answer.
@@jordybernaert3656 i fixed it, the fix was actually really simple, just download the "Z axis offset" plugin in cura, and set the axis -xx so that the nozzle is perfect. but dont set it too low since you can reaaaly mess up your bed
Hello, I have a question. I am using Cura and an Ender 3 V2 When the printer made a perfect sticking 3 layers raft he begin printing to high. The layers wont stick the 4th layer. How can I solve this problem?
Thanks,
Angus I got the Prusa I3 Mk2. good printer fully assembled. However going through the menu options ,etc. I clicked on Calibrate XYZ, so the printer went ahead and did its thing, however when it comes to the nozzle height I am a bit worried that I may not be setting it correctly. The Live Z calibration is a great option but when do you really know if your setting is the best possible setting. ? When I print , I have been able to see that the back of my first print is no longer shinny or fused together like I used to have it. Is there any feedback you can provide here? I also noticing that my prints are way more shinier not sure why. I am using Colorfab PLA.
who uses those fcking printers aaaaaaaaaaaaaaa aaaaaaaaaaaaaa aaaaaaaaaaaaa
i always heat up my bed before leveling. saves much headache
Jordan W I’ve been looking for tips on this. Do you heat it to the temperature the material you run? If so, how do you not burn yourself or the paper as you make contact with the nozzle and the bed?
"not too cloes, but not too far" .... OMG, I would soooo like some exact measurements to know where I should start. Starting with 3d-printinng, A8, having tried the original bed, different kind of tapes, 3dlac, hairspray, gluestick, glass, ... and about 85% of prints have come loose and where destroyed ...
tried tuning bed with feelergauges at 0.2, 0.25, 0.15, 0.1,... papertest,
Loosing hope here.
Hehe, it depends on the printer, layer height setting and print surface. Get some buildtak or the chinese clone of the stuff, and a feeler guage if you want to be precise. A first layer height of 50 to 75% of your layer height is a good area to aim for. Hope that helps! The A8 is only as good as you can tinker it to be.
I know mate, it indeed needs lots of tinkering.
Now there is somthing new here, I heared you had to choose a first layer that was thicker then normal layers so to get squiching .. but you tell to take only 50% ... I 'll test in that direction. thx for taking the time to respond en please keep up the great video's!
With PLA on my ender 3d pro I can only get prints to stick when using a .156mm feeler gauge. Decided to print some ABS for the first time and having an even harder time to get it to stick properly. Whether it be on a glass bed or the original print bed. Im using a .5 nozzle 90 degrees bed temp and 245 for the extruder. Ive had a BLtouch for a while but never figured out how to get it to work and of course my print bed is slightly warped in the middle and the glass bed I got is also warped.. However, the normal bed seems to be pretty much flat when at 90 degrees (when at 60 degrees for PLA ill set the corners at .150mm and the middle will be more than .350mm Which seems like a lot. Plus no one sells new aluminum beds. I ordered some G10 I guess we will see how that works.
i want to replace the original melzi creality v1.1.3 ender 3 board that has the input voltage 24v and the mk10 hot end with mainboard mks gen l v1.0 plus tft 2.8 touch screen and titan aero 1.75mm 24v, is this possible ?
-on my creality mainboard at ''fans, hot bed, nozzle '' write 12v, but i measure that and i was expected to be 24 but it was 12 v both -so my nozzle theoretical is 24, but it has 12 volts on the mainboard, that is a problem? if i will buy the titan aero hot end what voltage do i have to buy it ? -the melzi mainboard from creality has a ''atmega1284p microproccesor'',but the mks gen l has ''32-bit STM32 microprocessor'' -is that a problem if mks gen l has a 32-bits microprocessor? i mean if it has bore bits that the atmega. Can it burn ? -is the melzi mainboard has theoretica 3* 12 v blocks but in reality 3* 24 volts what voltage need the mks gen l board to have ? if it has 12 volts the al that 3 components to wich need 24 v is going to be any problem ? -that 3 component ''fans, hot end, hot bed '' are in reality 24 volts, the matter if on that mainboard is 12 or 24 volts ?
No Delta printers???????
Don't own any, sorry.
How level is level enough? I was recently creating a storage box for a machinist's deflection meter when it occurred to me that I could use the deflection meter to level the build plate. So, I created fixture that holds the deflection meter on the hot end with the deflection meter's contact point inline with the extruder. Now all four corners of my Monoprice mini are at the same level. The build pate is not as flat as expected. The center of the plate is 1 to 2 thousandths off from the corners. Oh well.
Hey Angus, I'm trying to change filament and print a 3rd color at the top of my print but at the same later as another colour using z hop can I remove the support and start at print at 15mm of the bed but onto a part that is already there?
What is a good nozzle level that you suggest. I’m kinda new to this and nothing is working anymore. I think this is my nozzle height and I put it at 0.0mm and even that looked to high. Please help
i personally just eyeball it and a friend used paper. said friend told me: "man eyeballing works better thanks for the suggestion"
why use 14pt cardstock or .39mm when you can use a .2mm feeler guage?
I know this is an old video. But leveling machine tools in industry is done with 3 points typically. It's much easier to set a level plane that way then add feet or shims
My nozzle is punchering holes in my bed....why?
Been struggling with nozzle height and bed leveling. Found out that leveling the bed when its heated is important and i was told the thickness of a single sheet of paper. That caused many problems later down the line as it was far to thin.
That’s what I’m thinking I think I’m gonna try a gift card or something
Dude you talk to much and get to the point.
6:38 Love this printer. As I am a bit pedantic I opted for using a dial indicator to initialy set my bed manualy the best that it is possible. Then do the auto level so that you get minimum correction. My theory is that the better the bed is set the better the outcome. From alo CNC machining days lol.
Ask Holy Spirit to teach you and to guide
you. I would recommend the TH-cam Cleveland street preachers and follow Jesus no man no religion. Be holy and obey Jesus. Hebrews 5:9 "salvation is for those who obey. Jesus says if you love me keep my commandments (John 14:15). Jesus even says if you keep my commandments then you shall abide in my love (John 15:10).
I have the ender 3 how do I level my bed
Simplify3D bed leveling wizard is pretty amazing for the wanhao i3 less work you have to put into it.
+Derek Ward I haven't tried that out yet, sounds pretty awesome! I'll check it out.
So I’m guessing we’re just going to pretend the Anet A8 printer doesn’t exist
Do you adjust hot or cold?
My printer has 3 manual screws, 2 up front and one in back. Only problem is you level all 3 points but the back corners are conveniently lower than the leveled points. Pretty sure shimming won't fix this and the aluminum plate needs to be fly cut.
Oh I meant cool
Great video, not only in the information but production.. Great B-Roll
I'm currently staring at my computer screen, typing this comment, but a moment ago I was staring at my BLTouch sensor that finally arrived from South Korea a couple days ago...which I keep procrastinating on installing as I dread the currently well-bundled wires turning into a tumbleweed, dealing with extruder carriage dis/re-assembly, and hoping my fingers can get into the board's enclosure without breaking something and/or requiring me to disassemble even more crap.
Ugh, just writing that paragraph gave me a headache. :-/ I'll give someone $20 plus the old/current auto-level sensor as payment to come do it for me while I drink booze and watch! :D
Why are you not happy with only three adjustment points? That's the most rigid option. A chair with three legs can't wiggle, one with four legs can do it anytime. Guess why photographers use TRIpods and not QUADpods? With four adjustment screws and a large enough print bed you might even warp the bed, impossible to make that mistake with only three. Three ist good!
Greetings from a surveyor whose measuring equipment stands on tripods and has three levelling screws for each instrument. :-)
I learned the hard way about setting the correct nozzle height yesterday when the extruder started clicking on the lower layers and I went mad stripping everything down and looking for a clogged nozzle, ended up cleaning it the wrong way, damaged the nozzle and it made no difference until I realised I'd screwed up. so yeah very important! Still despite the damaged nozzle it still printed a passable (if slightly blobby) benchy. New nozzles on order.
My Prusa i3 has the four corner screws with springs. I locked one corner by removing the spring and secured it with lock nuts. I just set the other three to that one now. I print on glass and have several pieces so I just remove the glass and print and fit another to carry on printing without having to wait for it to cool down. Problem is all glass is not the exact same thickness. So now I'm fitting a servo type auto level using Marlin. Just about got it working and fine tuning as we speak, so to speak. Keep up the good work and vids Angus....
The MP Select Mini is a bit of a pain to level. It uses the pretty standard manual four-point level, but for some reason they put the screws such that you have to tighten them using a hex key *from the top*. So you have to check the level, move the head out of the way, adjust, move the head back, check again...
On the Wanhao i3, I use a relatively thin sheet of note paper with one fold on one side. I set the bed level so that I can't feel the single sheet, but the double layer offers some resistance and it's still easy to pull the fold through the gap between the print head and bed (with significant resistance). This works really well at 0.2mm, but ends up being a bit too close for 0.1mm. I'm using Simplify3D to slice. Which brings me to my point... The zero level for the printer that I have set is some known offset from the print bed. Yet, there's no setting for this in Simplify3D: the wizard UI recommendation is to set the bed level to about where I have it, but for 0.1mm layer prints, I would like the printer to start 0.05mm higher and at 0.2mm, use the default offset (so relatively speaking 0mm). Using default settings, 0.1mm PLA prints actually stick a bit too well and the first layer is too thin in some places (the brim will sometimes nearly disappear).
I just read the tutorial on first layer height at Simplify3D. They recommend setting the first layer height for thin layer prints to 200% or more. I suppose I'll try 150% or 200% and I bet that will solve my issue... Essentially the first layer will then print as if the whole print was 0.15mm or 0.2mm, giving a bit more margin of error for bed level variations.
A business card (like in your video) seems awfully thick compared to what I'm using.
Just did your upgrade on my CR10 S5 and worked brilliantly. I used a slightly more powerful heater at 1000w and the bed hits 70 in 1 min 10 sec. It does warp the bed at 135 in just 2 min 40. So I guess I will have to upgrade to a different type of alloy. No complaints thought the extra speed in heating is fantastic! Thank you for your video and helping us all with your talent. Cheers.
I really am so fed up with my printer because of bed warp. If I had a shop locally that would Tool Plate me a replacement with the holes countersunk I would grab them but after 3 things coming to me, for this printer, and all were warped and bent I have no trust in a 40 dollar tool plate that has to be mailed to me.
An issue I am running into is the printer will lay the trim line flawlessly and then when it proceeds to actually print the first layer of the model, it just wont stick. The trim line sticks but the center doesn't. I've adjusted the height at least eighty times in the last two days. Any suggestions?
A plane is defined by three points. So why not use three screws? Four may make for a more "solid" bed but in theory the fourth screw could bend the plane. Thoughts?
I like the camera moves you were making when doing your product shots. Little things like that make your videos look really professional .
Don't know if you still monitor this old video or not. But...My Tevo Tornado prints just fine till I get about an inch up and then it knocks things over.
I just got a Dremel 3D40, and I love how it does the bed level. If you haven't seen it, check it out! Very impressive.
Couldn't I just use two spirit levels to level the bed of the Cocoon Create or other i3 clones? One to make sure the printer itself is level and one to make sure the bed is level.
Hi I'm always asking myself what do I do first level than offset or offset first than level?
what do i do when the bed is as far down as it goes and the nozzle still goes further down. how can I adjust the nozzle height without doing it ever single time i print while its printing