As a carpenter cabinet maker for 50+ years, I've always found that on material which chip or break out easily, I tend to double cut ,in other words i scribe the surface first around 1mm deep ,and then I plunge to full depth. It works for me, hope this helps somebody.
I don't have one of these saws (yet!!) but several years ago I bought a table saw from one of the discount supermarkets. The blade supplied was dreadful, and you do need to pay a bit more to get a decent blade. Once I replaced the rubbishy blade the cuts were excellent. I have several Parkside branded tools from Lidl and I've got no complaints about any of them.
I buy Parkside tools, not because of their low price but for their high quality. I have seen many complaints about the Festool including the poor quality dust collection. I have seen many comments also about needing to buy expensive industrial tools because of the need for more power. This is a fallacy. Some DIY tools are more powerful than their industrial counterparts. The difference between DIY tools and industrial tools lies between the ratings of their armatures and field coils and not their power ratings. These can vary from 150 hour to 5000 hour. Most DIY tools suffer short terms of usage and lots of abuse and misuse. The only Parkside Tool I have burned out was a. Vacuum cleaner used for many hours at a time and it's sister vac is still going strong after 6 years. My experience involves selling power tools, hiring them and repairing them and I am fully trained in the Bosch organisation. I have been involved with power tools for over 50 of my 77 years.
Parkside track saw - died in one day and cuts only 1 pack of laminated 7mm desks) Warranty not responding. Maybe 5 years ago it was nice, but currently Parkside is a piece of sh&t in quality and support.
I have had one of these saws for about a year now & would highly recommend it, based on the price & build quality. Of course, a Festool is going to give you more accuracy & reliability but if you're a hobbyist, this will last you many years (comes with a 3 year warranty). I found the stock blade adequate but treated myself to a nice Freud blade with a higher tooth count, which makes really nice cuts. I did have to remove the riving knife as it was thicker than the Freud blade & would get pinched in the cut. As it is on a track, which I clamp down & keep my hands off, the absence of this safety feature isn't as big an issues as on a table saw, where it is essential. I thought I would use it a lot more, having watched lots of Peter Millard videos, but it is a bit of a hassle to set up the track, wires, dust hose, clamps etc... & tend to use the bandsaw or tablesaw for most cuts. However, when I have large cuts to make or I'm working away from my workshop, this is indispensable. Much better than a circular saw running against a clamp on guide fence, which works but isn't as accurate & has a higher chance of kickback. The fence & the fact the blade will retract makes this a lot safer, in my opinion. Would I recommend for professionals? I guess it depends on how often you use it. How fine a cut you need etc... For general carpentry, I think it would do a good job. For fine furniture making, it's probably worth investing in the accuracy of a more expensive brand. For longevity, even if it stopped working in half the time, if you're paying 1/10 of the price...
@@antonindrawan I believe I just took the blade cover plate off & undid the riving knife with an alan key or similar. It was very easy. No hidden screws popping out etc... I usually wouldn't remove safety features but in the case of the track saw I think it's not essential due to the way it cuts. If I can find a thinner riving knife then I'll put it back on but it's not as crucial as the one on a tablesaw in my opinion.
Thank you for the clear video. I bought an HBM165. This, as far as I can tell, is exactly the same device as the Parkside. My manual is brief, so your video clarifies a lot. My machine also came with two clamps to secure the rail. Do you know if these are necessary, and if so, how to use them?
I have bought a saw like this and changed a blade for DeWalt 36 T. It is really good enough. And it is a small difference between Parkside and for example Bosch o Makita. Parside costs 400 PLN and Bosch 1800 PLN without the blade of course. (1 Euro - 4,3 PLN) For people who use this a few times a year it will be really good.
In Italy this blade is known as “immersion” or “deep” blade. I have an issue with this description as I thought it was a regular circular saw, But the wrist plunging action mechanism has me confused as I tried t a couple of times and it kicked back horribly Is it by meant to work as the “old” style saws with the metal guard that circles back an forth? What am Indoinf wrong? Thanks! Subbed
Un Mapa you need to let it spin up to full speed before pushing the blade down. And obviously, you dont start the motor with blade touching cutting material/down position, so upper neutral position spin motor to full speed which only takes a second or two then plunge. Also, securing material and clamping tracks on it helps a lot. you should experience no kickback at all. There was no kickback in this video and that was with no clamps.
@@unmapa5767 I never have kickback. But as the other posters say: let it spin up to full speed first, make sure it is in position on the rail before you start the cut, and slowly but firmly let it plunge in the material (don't ram it in!). I have experienced kickback with this saw only once, when I was in a hurry and dropped it before it was up to speed in 6cm hardwood multiplex. It didn't kick back much even so.
That saw is just as good as more expensive ones and cuts just as well. It's also as powerful. It may not last as long, as it is DIY rated but I would put money on it lasting a very long time in any DIY WORKSHOP and on building sites.
very nice video, I think this saw is miles better than usual low budget saws, I just never seen it in lidl. I have a lot of parkside tools and find them very good, I get professional results with them even though I am not a pro. To me features dont matter much but quality of cut must be perfect/at pro level otherwise its waste of time and money, so with that in mind, do you think you could get perfect cut with high end blade? Another question, how does the blade sit on the line when in 45° position? I have seen reports of scheppach not sitting right when bewel cutting and parside is scheppach when it comes to plunge track saw? cheers
It does not saw in super straight line - at least mine - wondering if I need to tune it somehow? Already changed the blade. It has a strange sound like if the motor could self damage itself :) I'm also wondering about the guide rail - the disk teeth will actually cut the black line if I plunge it???
Align problem, make a cut and stop in the middle , loosen the 4 hex screws, and put a 0,4 mm card behind the sawblade, the front of the blade must touche the wood, fasten screws. (toe in alignment)
Definitely. Remember that a machine is only as good as the tool that is on it. In this case the saw blade. The cost price of a quality saw blade is a significant part of the machine cost. It saves nothing to save on a new saw blade. The mounted saw blades look like they were not produced "within Europe".
Good saw after tune, align blade to base, align 90/45 degree, other blade, other rail or modify both to 90 degree. Best tune is get rid of the wobble, remove pin from pivot point and place 2 shim rings aprrox 0,1, or 0,2 mm and the wobble is almost gone and the saw is just as good as a Makita.
If this saw cuts in the middle of the material or further away from the edge, there may be a problem with the hose line from the vacuum cleaner. The plain ribbed hose catches on the edge of the material and can sometimes lift the saw. I designed a hose guide that simply clips onto the bar and a saw-to-hose outlet adapter that has a smaller angle than the original. There is no need to hold the hose by hand. th-cam.com/video/i276uQaYXxE/w-d-xo.html
@@Markelhombre1 I have this same Parkside saw. It is just a regular screw: left to loosen, right to tighten. The screw is a M8x20 socket button head screw.
![[FINALE] 💸ที่แท้พ่อเป็นผู้ถือหุ้นบริษัทพันล้าน เขากลับใจตอนนี้ก็สายไปแล้ว🙇🏻♂️#ละครคุณธรรม #short](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/yFwgjTFISUI/mqdefault.jpg)
As a carpenter cabinet maker for 50+ years, I've always found that on material which chip or break out easily, I tend to double cut ,in other words i scribe the surface first around 1mm deep ,and then I plunge to full depth. It works for me, hope this helps somebody.
I don't have one of these saws (yet!!) but several years ago I bought a table saw from one of the discount supermarkets. The blade supplied was dreadful, and you do need to pay a bit more to get a decent blade. Once I replaced the rubbishy blade the cuts were excellent. I have several Parkside branded tools from Lidl and I've got no complaints about any of them.
I buy Parkside tools, not because of their low price but for their high quality. I have seen many complaints about the Festool including the poor quality dust collection. I have seen many comments also about needing to buy expensive industrial tools because of the need for more power. This is a fallacy. Some DIY tools are more powerful than their industrial counterparts. The difference between DIY tools and industrial tools lies between the ratings of their armatures and field coils and not their power ratings. These can vary from 150 hour to 5000 hour. Most DIY tools suffer short terms of usage and lots of abuse and misuse. The only Parkside Tool I have burned out was a. Vacuum cleaner used for many hours at a time and it's sister vac is still going strong after 6 years. My experience involves selling power tools, hiring them and repairing them and I am fully trained in the Bosch organisation. I have been involved with power tools for over 50 of my 77 years.
Parkside track saw - died in one day and cuts only 1 pack of laminated 7mm desks) Warranty not responding. Maybe 5 years ago it was nice, but currently Parkside is a piece of sh&t in quality and support.
I have had one of these saws for about a year now & would highly recommend it, based on the price & build quality. Of course, a Festool is going to give you more accuracy & reliability but if you're a hobbyist, this will last you many years (comes with a 3 year warranty).
I found the stock blade adequate but treated myself to a nice Freud blade with a higher tooth count, which makes really nice cuts. I did have to remove the riving knife as it was thicker than the Freud blade & would get pinched in the cut. As it is on a track, which I clamp down & keep my hands off, the absence of this safety feature isn't as big an issues as on a table saw, where it is essential.
I thought I would use it a lot more, having watched lots of Peter Millard videos, but it is a bit of a hassle to set up the track, wires, dust hose, clamps etc... & tend to use the bandsaw or tablesaw for most cuts. However, when I have large cuts to make or I'm working away from my workshop, this is indispensable. Much better than a circular saw running against a clamp on guide fence, which works but isn't as accurate & has a higher chance of kickback. The fence & the fact the blade will retract makes this a lot safer, in my opinion.
Would I recommend for professionals? I guess it depends on how often you use it. How fine a cut you need etc... For general carpentry, I think it would do a good job. For fine furniture making, it's probably worth investing in the accuracy of a more expensive brand. For longevity, even if it stopped working in half the time, if you're paying 1/10 of the price...
The riving knife indeed got pinched in the cut and touched the blade :(
Is there an instruction on how to remove or adjust the riving knife?
@@antonindrawan I believe I just took the blade cover plate off & undid the riving knife with an alan key or similar. It was very easy. No hidden screws popping out etc...
I usually wouldn't remove safety features but in the case of the track saw I think it's not essential due to the way it cuts. If I can find a thinner riving knife then I'll put it back on but it's not as crucial as the one on a tablesaw in my opinion.
@@Rooster---ooo thank you! I will give it a try next time
Great review, thanks a lot.
I would like to see how it cuts when you do small deep cut first 3mm, and then do full cut
Really appreciate your effort...
Thank you for the clear video. I bought an HBM165. This, as far as I can tell, is exactly the same device as the Parkside. My manual is brief, so your video clarifies a lot. My machine also came with two clamps to secure the rail. Do you know if these are necessary, and if so, how to use them?
I have bought a saw like this and changed a blade for DeWalt 36 T. It is really good enough. And it is a small difference between Parkside and for example Bosch o Makita. Parside costs 400 PLN and Bosch 1800 PLN without the blade of course. (1 Euro - 4,3 PLN) For people who use this a few times a year it will be really good.
+Mac Dru 100% agree, a blade change for an hobbiest will make a world of difference
In Italy this blade is known as “immersion” or “deep” blade.
I have an issue with this description as I thought it was a regular circular saw,
But the wrist plunging action mechanism has me confused as I tried t a couple of times and it kicked back horribly
Is it by meant to work as the “old” style saws with the metal guard that circles back an forth?
What am Indoinf wrong? Thanks! Subbed
Un Mapa you need to let it spin up to full speed before pushing the blade down. And obviously, you dont start the motor with blade touching cutting material/down position, so upper neutral position spin motor to full speed which only takes a second or two then plunge. Also, securing material and clamping tracks on it helps a lot. you should experience no kickback at all. There was no kickback in this video and that was with no clamps.
@@unmapa5767 I never have kickback. But as the other posters say: let it spin up to full speed first, make sure it is in position on the rail before you start the cut, and slowly but firmly let it plunge in the material (don't ram it in!). I have experienced kickback with this saw only once, when I was in a hurry and dropped it before it was up to speed in 6cm hardwood multiplex. It didn't kick back much even so.
Great video! If you score the line with a Stanley blade the timber doesn't chip👍🏻
Instablaster.
Cut finishing comes on bottom side of cutting sheet, top side you can score a line with knife for better result as some other guy said.
That saw is just as good as more expensive ones and cuts just as well. It's also as powerful. It may not last as long, as it is DIY rated but I would put money on it lasting a very long time in any DIY WORKSHOP and on building sites.
Where can i buy a rail? I want it to be longer what other brand fits?
The rail supplied does not come with clamps so slides about on some materials. I cannot see a way to attach any clamps either.
very nice video, I think this saw is miles better than usual low budget saws, I just never seen it in lidl. I have a lot of parkside tools and find them very good, I get professional results with them even though I am not a pro.
To me features dont matter much but quality of cut must be perfect/at pro level otherwise its waste of time and money, so with that in mind, do you think you could get perfect cut with high end blade?
Another question, how does the blade sit on the line when in 45° position? I have seen reports of scheppach not sitting right when bewel cutting and parside is scheppach when it comes to plunge track saw?
cheers
It does not saw in super straight line - at least mine - wondering if I need to tune it somehow? Already changed the blade. It has a strange sound like if the motor could self damage itself :) I'm also wondering about the guide rail - the disk teeth will actually cut the black line if I plunge it???
Align problem, make a cut and stop in the middle , loosen the 4 hex screws, and put a 0,4 mm card behind the sawblade, the front of the blade must touche the wood, fasten screws. (toe in alignment)
Interesting video. But your voice disappeared at 7.47 on my bluetooth ear device. Something wrong. Please have a look.😕
Would installing a better quality blade help to clean up the ragged edges of the cut?
Yes I think it would, but I made some cuts on MDF and normal plywood and the quality of the cut is much better.
Much better!!! Let's agree, saw is super for this price but cutting blade included is a piece of sh... . I changed it to 48 blades. Cut perfect.
Screwfix does a Triton 60 tooth blade for 15gbp.
Definitely. Remember that a machine is only as good as the tool that is on it. In this case the saw blade. The cost price of a quality saw blade is a significant part of the machine cost. It saves nothing to save on a new saw blade. The mounted saw blades look like they were not produced "within Europe".
Absolutely agree.
Hola tengo la makina que no encuentro disco de mas dientes gracias
I totally agree if is for DIY is perfect for professional need something like makita or festoon good review well explained.
Good saw after tune, align blade to base, align 90/45 degree, other blade, other rail or modify both to 90 degree. Best tune is get rid of the wobble, remove pin from pivot point and place 2 shim rings aprrox 0,1, or 0,2 mm and the wobble is almost gone and the saw is just as good as a Makita.
Thanks for sharing Sir
I forgot, frame is just 40mm wide and 100mm long, thanks
Good ol' Lid! Nice video.
Hi, can I make a cut 0,4x0,4x 100mm in frames with this saw. Thanks
Yes only other blade (T80)
I just bought the PARKSIDE® PTSS 1200 C2«, 1200 W online on LIDL for 99 euro,waiting till it will be delivered
you can use for composite panels please can you tell me where to buy a disc for it
thanks
Ok thanks saved me reading the manual cheers
OK thanks. Hope you feel better as a human being
A lot of people say a better quality blade improves this saw.
2:40 watched patiently to see the direction to unscrew the blade, disappointing. It is indeed anti clockwise, mine is just fused.
@@The_fappening Makes sense. I wish mine unscrewed at all.
If this saw cuts in the middle of the material or further away from the edge, there may be a problem with the hose line from the vacuum cleaner. The plain ribbed hose catches on the edge of the material and can sometimes lift the saw. I designed a hose guide that simply clips onto the bar and a saw-to-hose outlet adapter that has a smaller angle than the original. There is no need to hold the hose by hand. th-cam.com/video/i276uQaYXxE/w-d-xo.html
What blade would be reccomend as an upgraded blade?
I did not change the blade, but if I had to I would change it with a Diablo blade.
Screwfix does a Triton 60 tooth for 15gbp
I recommend DeWalt 36 T. Nice cuts.
DeWalt DT1950
Hi, do you know whats the differents between 1200 b1 and the 1200 c1? Thank you
+Κωστας Σχοιναρακης not sure I never seen a c1 version
"you can just replace the blade" - yeah, if they hadn't fixed the screw so firmly that it's nearly impossible to get it loose, it could :)
Usually, the screws turn the other way to unscrew. To prevent them from unscrewing by sawing.
@@Markelhombre1 I have this same Parkside saw. It is just a regular screw: left to loosen, right to tighten. The screw is a M8x20 socket button head screw.
Дешманская фанера.