Hi Cary another informative video mate, question im considering doing an Uzi repair on my LW3 it is a little worse for wear and after researching asking questions and looking at various options being airbrush water/vinyl decal im leaning towards a water decal as it looks to be the more beginner type friendly!. Its mainly around the top three bullets where there is a black type matrix pattern so painting for me is way out of my league, just wondering what your thoughts are and how you would tackle this type repair as a beginner, any guidance if you have time mate is appreciated.
Unfortunately water slides may look easy, but will require a lot of work. You are wanting to cover an area that is smack center of the playfield that gets plenty of action. You would need to clear coat the playfield after installing the water slides. If you are applying it to the wood portion of the game then you would also need to paint the area white before putting on the decals. Otherwise the colors will be way off.
@@CaryHardy thanks for the info Cary , I don't think any type repair with the Uzi is going to be easy for me as mentioned the black matrix pattern is to complex to touch up without noticeable differences via painiting, so i figured this to be my better of the two, I was thinking mylar over the decal as opposed to clear coating the whole pf, again probably an easy beginner type option but i guess i do have a concern that the additional height of the waterslide and mylar may trip the ball up? and as for the undercoat appreciate the tip, still gaining knowledge for the wiser men in the hobby so again cheers for the help and great content.
@@CaryHardy OK cool im a little more confident with mylar at this stage. So thought process is some type wood filling agent or superglue to fill sand back then apply base white and level in decal. Any filling agent that you would suggest as more beginner type friendly! and printing ill need to invest some dollars in my own rig for down the road any particular setup you would recommend for scanning /printing.
@@YNGBLD80 I use a laser printer for printing. As far as scanning goes. There is an HP scanner that is highly revered as being the best by restorers - but it isn't made anymore. I have a hand scanner - that works, but you gotta have a steady hand.
I'm confused about why you're placing new decals over existing decals. Shouldn't that only be necessary if the original lettering on the inserts have been rubbed away?
What size are the rectangular and the triangle decals? Are they 1 inch? Thanks
they are the exact size of the originals. Probably 1x2''
Hi Cary another informative video mate, question im considering doing an Uzi repair on my LW3 it is a little worse for wear and after researching asking questions and looking at various options being airbrush water/vinyl decal im leaning towards a water decal as it looks to be the more beginner type friendly!. Its mainly around the top three bullets where there is a black type matrix pattern so painting for me is way out of my league, just wondering what your thoughts are and how you would tackle this type repair as a beginner, any guidance if you have time mate is appreciated.
Unfortunately water slides may look easy, but will require a lot of work. You are wanting to cover an area that is smack center of the playfield that gets plenty of action. You would need to clear coat the playfield after installing the water slides. If you are applying it to the wood portion of the game then you would also need to paint the area white before putting on the decals. Otherwise the colors will be way off.
@@CaryHardy thanks for the info Cary , I don't think any type repair with the Uzi is going to be easy for me as mentioned the black matrix pattern is to complex to touch up without noticeable differences via painiting, so i figured this to be my better of the two, I was thinking mylar over the decal as opposed to clear coating the whole pf, again probably an easy beginner type option but i guess i do have a concern that the additional height of the waterslide and mylar may trip the ball up? and as for the undercoat appreciate the tip, still gaining knowledge for the wiser men in the hobby so again cheers for the help and great content.
@@YNGBLD80 mylar is an option for sure. It wouldn't affect the ball that much either.
@@CaryHardy OK cool im a little more confident with mylar at this stage. So thought process is some type wood filling agent or superglue to fill sand back then apply base white and level in decal. Any filling agent that you would suggest as more beginner type friendly! and printing ill need to invest some dollars in my own rig for down the road any particular setup you would recommend for scanning /printing.
@@YNGBLD80 I use a laser printer for printing. As far as scanning goes. There is an HP scanner that is highly revered as being the best by restorers - but it isn't made anymore. I have a hand scanner - that works, but you gotta have a steady hand.
I'm confused about why you're placing new decals over existing decals. Shouldn't that only be necessary if the original lettering on the inserts have been rubbed away?
It's was due to the lack of opacity of the first decals.
Will you clearcoat after you are done applying decals?
Yes. Clearing over these is best.
@@CaryHardy How do you do that exactly?
What is that transparent liquid that you use to clean the insert before the stamp arrives?
It's a decal setting solution like I state in the video. Just google it and you will see it.
@@CaryHardy sorry I didn't hear right, any similar solution? international shipping is complicated
@@NavaTadeo not that I know of
I need a few for my lah,is there somewhere to buy these premade??
no. I scan them myself.
Thanks
What’s the name of that glue?
I don't use glue for these. I mention that I use a decal setting solution though. That's literally what it's called too.
Good luck on the project man .. you made that look too easy..lol