Wow, thank you! I put my15 liter classic together perfectly after watching your set up video, then turned it on and realized there was no way I could put my betta in that underwater cyclone. So grateful that you provided this helpful information. Love your videos!
Lol, glad you found it Angela. Yes, the 15L, with standard biOrb air pump, turns into a Zacuzzi on steroids! Never a great scenario for a Betta. If you are going to cycle the tank, you will get a faster cycle with good air flow though the tank (a colony of beneficial bacteria grows quicker with good air supply). Beyond cycling, turn it down low to keep your betta happy, especially when he does his trips up to the surface. Thanks for watching. :) Mark
Thank you my friend. I got a bit down with the channel so I probably needed a bit of a break. But, it feels very good to be back. More to come from me. Hope you are well.
Thank you! I've got 2 Bettas: Sunny & Blondie....bought two 4 gallon tanks & then was seeing people talking about the flow issue....SO glad I watched this video to get this sorted now.
I'm glad it helped. It is certainly an issue that is more pronounced in the smaller tanks It is an easy fix and doing it will bring the conditions in the tank to something more akin to the conditions Betta prefer and will often result in obvious changes in Betta behaviour... Overall they will appear to be happier and more willing to fully explore the aquarium. Say hello, from me, to Sunny and Blondie :)
Just set up my bi-orb over the weekend and placed a betta within it. I literally had questioned if the bubbles was too much. Thank you for this video, extremely helpful. (All your videos have been awesome btw)
Hi Vanessa. Great to hear from you and a big thanks for supporting the Channel. Yes, betta really don't like a strong water flow. If he's not using the full height of the aquarium's water column (i.e instead, is hanging around the lower half), and also not coming up to the surface regularly for a gulp of air, this is very likely to be the reason why. It seems to be a problem with the 15l tanks for some reason and air pumps - which also just happens to be the size of aquarium that many people will want to add a betta to (as they are a perfect aquarium for a betta). BTW, betta are probably the sweetest fish ever!! :). Any help needed... please just drop me a line. Mark
Thank you so much for this information. I bought a 15 litre biorb 2 days ago with too much airflow and now I can fix it. I love all your videos and you are officially my tropical fish guru. 😊
Thank you Christine... what a lovely message! :) Yes, the 15L size can suffer from too much airflow because biOrb supply the same air pump used for the larger aquariums. This low cost adaption will sort that out. You should also find that it will reduce the sound of the air pump/ aquarium. So, it's a double win! Thank you for your support to my channel. Best wishes, Mark.
Hi Goncalo - I've added a new video covering the channel's monthly prize draws! I'm going to be doing one Prize Draw every month until I run out of the Oase biOrb supplied freebies.... unless they donate more, then i will just keep doing them :) Lol. I hope you are well. Best, Mark
This video was extremely helpful, thank you so much! My new beta fish is now much happier without the jacuzzi he was in because of the Biorb’s super strong bubbler! Such a simple, $5 fix, I really appreciate this tip.
Another great video Mark! Now youve mentioned it I think my 30's air is a bit high and I also recently added a betta - which acts a bit like you said. i've ordered one of the adapters so will add to the tube at the weekend. I'd seen them before (in my local store) but wasnt completely sure how they work or how you fit them. looks very easy to do now that youve shown me one. Thanks again for your advice. Keep up the good work. Cheers, Pete
Thanks Pete. Glad you thought it was helpful. Hopefully, if your Betta is spending too much time towards the bottom of the aquarium this may solve that and you will start to see him (or her?) moving around the aquarium more and doing the normal Betta (and Dwarf Gourami) thing of taking air from the surface. Thanks for watching. Best, Mark
Excellent advice. Ive had betta before and they dont like heavy flow at all. In my last tank I placed a small amount of sponge inside the air pipe which cut down the flow considerably. No messing this time, deffo getting a regulator for my new bio globe! Many thanks for the video, top tip 👍
Yes, a flow regulator is the way to go. They are cheap, easy to fit, and you can adjust the flow outside the tank to get it exactly how you want it. If adding a regulator, it is best to do this after the tank has been cycled. Establishing beneficial bacteria (cycling) needs a good air flow to provide a higher oxygen content to support bacterial colonisation. After the tank is cycled (established) the air flow can then be adjusted to suit the requirements of your fish. Sometimes a regulator can also help to reduce aquarium noise/ sound. There can often be variation between the different biOrb air pumps. Those with too high an air flow can cause the tank to resonate (hum) as the base of the aquarium. Reducing flow can often remove or reduce this issue. Just remember to fit the regulator near to the air pump and below the airline's stop valve/ one-way valve Hope that helps. Best wishes, Mark
This channel is so brill! - so useful . I really love my Biorb - it makes getting water quality right so much easier , I think that the round design gives my little fighter much more of a sense of freedom because he doesn’t have any ‘walls’ to bump into - he can just keep swimming - and it looks great ! One problem , though - was the high turbulance . I was using a toothpaste squeezer to control it - Thank you so much Mr Strp by Step man ( I don’t know your name!) - have ordered a air control valve and I now know how to fit it . Best wishes from Sky and Shimmer ( Bristol , UK).
Hi Sky and Shimmer. Great to hear from you and thanks so much for your kind words. Yes, I agree about the orb shaped tanks. The the filter system also seems to work far better (at drawing in waste) when compared the flat bottomed biOrbs. That's true, your fish can swim for miles and never bump into walls! Lol :) A good idea to reduce your air flow for the Betta... the control valves are very easy to add to the airline and it will help to regulate the air flow to a level that is more suitable. Best wishes, Mark
Great video. Very helpful. Like others have said, really appreciate all of your excellent videos Mark. They have made getting started in the whole world of Biorb so much easier than it would have been otherwise.
This was so helpful, thank you!!!! I just bought my first Biorb a couple months ago. I purchased a 15 L for my Betta because I was hoping to add another fast/friendly fish eventually. My betta seems bored sometimes and I thought having a friend might help, but I'm aware of their aggression towards other fish and haven't taken that step yet. I've been watching your videos on set up, maintenance, etc. and they have been super helpful! This one especially because of my situation, my betta hates the airflow so I've only been running it half of the time. I would love to know more about bettas in biorbs and any other advice you have. Thank you for putting your knowledge out there for all of us to benefit from!
Hi Niki. Lovely to hear from you and thanks for watching the Channel. I can't say I've seen aggression between betta and other fish species (it can sometimes be the other way round!) as many betta are very placid. My local aquarium shop nearly always displays them with other species. I've had betta withe a number of different species and they have always been fine. I think, with betta, it is more about adding things that interest them as they are very inquisitive. In terms of other fish, they will get on with most placid/ community fish (such as Endler's, guppies, rasboras, tetras) but most other fish tend to be shoal fish (normally needing 5 and more) and you would be very limited in that respect with a 15L. The best choice would probably be pygmy cory catfish (which are tiny!) - you could go with having three of those. Alternatively a couple of nerite snails would work too, to add a bit of interest for him - or shrimps. Betta love to explore things so anything to add interest would work. I'd certainly suggest a couple of live plants (on rock) with broader leaf shapes as betta like to explore them and often like to rest on their leaves Hope that helps. Best, Mark
I've watched this one yet again. A brilliant video. Your advice is stunning and you always manage to bring things down to the very basics and cover any questions (people like me) would normally raise! I'm sure that's not easy but you seem to do it in your stride! Thanks again.
Hi Mark, I don't have to much trouble with air flow issues in the 30litre tube. Maybe because its fairly tall, but may fit a valve out of curiosity. Good to see you back with your advice 👍
Thanks Peter and really nice to hear from you again. I was sort of expecting tanks over 15l to be fine. Great to hear yours is fine (mine are all good too). Just wanted check if biOrb have altered their pumps for some reason. I think a lot of people choose a betta for their 15l tanks so a high air flow is not very good in that case (but probably brilliant for cycling!!!) LOL.
Thank you so much for your information. I've been on here for hours trying to find out about check valve and air way flow placement. Finally found your video. You've helped me tremendously. Subscribed. 😁
Hi Missy. I'm glad you found the Channel. And thanks for subscribing :-) Yes, regulators are very easy to fit... you just need a pair of scissors and to fit one in the right place along the air line. If you need any help with aquarium stuff... just shout. Best wishes, Mark
@@StepbyStep-biOrb thank you, I will for sure. Just finished doing all check valves and flow placement for all of my 4 tank's. Have a wonderful weekend 💜
Thank you so much for all these videos and all the time and effort you put into them! I have been binge watching all your videos before i decided on the tank i wanted. i have bought a halo 30 liter for a betta and now i am rewatching your videos again to follow step by step. Though i have the disadvantage of living in northern europe and getting the same products as you is not that easy! My current biorb is as you said a jacuzzi and i realize now that its not supposed to be that way 😅 i will look around for the valve you use and maybe it will help a bit with the noise coming from the pump/aquarium too? Again, thank you for the advise and videos!!
Hi Jomah. Really happy to hear from you. I'm really glad you found the Channel and that you find my videos useful. Sorry to hear that products are not that easy to get where you are. This is something that I do clearly overlook (me, being in the UK and being able to get most things easily!). I'm sure that an adapter valve (regulator) will sort out your tank air-flow problems. It's an aquarium you need... not a jacuzzi! LOL. You will probably find that this will help to lower noise too. The key thing is to get a regulator valve that fits a 4mm air tube (i.e. the size that biOrb use for all their tanks). Best wishes to you. Mark.
Hello, thanks for the information. I have 6 biorbs now, only my 8 gallon flow runs alot of bubbles, the others, 2 - 4 gallon classics, 9 gallon tube, 8 gallon cube and 8 gallon classic are good. I went from 1 biorb to 6 lol Really love theses tanks.
Hi Donna. OMG you have more biOrbs than biOrb! :) LOL. I'm still waiting for a delivery of a new tank (60L) but I understand biOrb are having supply issues. Always great to hear from you! Best wishes, Mark
Hi Stephen. Merry Christmas. Basically, biOrb use a 4mm size airline for their tanks. Any 4mm air regulator will work, so those provided in the links will fit all biOrbs. I hope that helps. Best wishes, Mark
Hello again, I'm setting up my 30 litre flow and it currently has no fish, hopefully getting them Sunday. Just a quick question regarding the noise, it's a second hand tank, I've placed the actual pump on some foam and it's very quiet. I have new airstone and filter but it seems to be a bit noiser than I would have expected in the actual tank. Can hear the bubbles with a constant noise. Is this normal? I've ordered a airflow regulator valve that I plan to fit. Looking at getting male endlers livebearers are they going to be OK with standard flow rate or should I reduce it with the valve? Many thanks
Hi. Hopefully the air regulator, when fitted, will sort this problem out. The noise relates to resonance at the base of the tank relating to air flow. It sounds like it might be a bit on the higher side! Livebearers are generally okay with most things including air supply (reasonably high to low settings are generally fine with them). I would use the regulator to get the sound to where you are happy with. Initially the good reason to have higher airflow is to help with the tank cycle (initial beneficial bacteria colony will expand better with higher air flow). I would tend to put up with the noise/sound until the tank is cycled and then look to turn the air flow down afterwards. Best, Mark
One more thing, I did not see a link for the regulators, can you possibly provide one? The ones that I looked up online have a few different options, single way, 2 way, this is my first time owning an aquarium, so I am very green! Thanks again for your help!
My 30l has this problem.. Pump is ok. Air bubbles so forceful they are creating so much noise! Wondered if it was because its all new and cycling but regulater to be purchased tomorrow. Thank you
Hi. The problem is the air pump and I doubt it would be to do with the tank being new or cycling. If you can put up with it for a little while, it is worth having the high flow air flow during tank cycling (beneficial bacteria colonise/cycle quicker with a good initial high oxygen content). Once the tank is fully cycled, then feel free to reduce the flow down to a reasonable level using a regulator. Best, Mark
Hi. My Biorb has started to sound really noisy {buzzing}, I've cleaned the removeable sponge filter and replaced the air-stone, but this hasn't helped. The pump is silent. The sound is coming from the tank it self. Any advice would be very gratefully received. Thank you.
Hi. Sounds like you have done the obvious things. I assume it was okay before? Resonation sounds at the base of a biOrb tend to be related to a loose filter canister holder or related to the airflow into the aquarium. It could be that the plastic " screw locks" on the filter canister (i.e. the bottom of the unit you remove that holds the sponge etc) are not gripping the unit in place well enough when it is screwed back in. These can be a bit flimsy and can easily be damaged and can then cause the unit to not lock properly. Are you reusing the sponge filter canister (i.e. adding your own alternative sponges, activated carbon) or are you replacing the whole cartridge with the 'biOrb Service Kit? Try undoing the canister, turning it 180 degrees and then screwing it back in. If that doesn't make any difference, try disconnecting the airline from the air pump, put the end of the airline into your mouth and blow up the airline to force air into the tank. Then connect it back together. The noise could be caused by a slight blockage in the airline. Are you using an air regulator? Air regulators can often be used to adjust the airflow and remove resonation sound. Let me know how you get on. Best, Mark
@@StepbyStep-biOrb Thank you so much for all the very useful information. I will systematically go through what you have advised and hopefully have a silent Biorb!
Thanks for the informative video, i really enjoy your content and find it very helpful. Do you have any experience with so called filter modifications? I have a 60l Biorb Cube, and I'm considering altering the filter by adding additional foam externally around the original filter canister. This would allow for a smaller grade of substrate to accommodate bottom feeders more comfortably. These "upgrades" are usually from biorb sceptics, but i wondered what your view on such things are, being a fan rather than a critic? I believe PondGuru has the most prominent TH-cam video of a biorb "hack" to create a more effective under gravel filter system.
Hi Oliver. Thanks again for watching. I've heard mixed reviews on the upgrades (some people love them, others don't, others have tried them and gone back to ceramic media). As you say, the adaption is a larger foam filter that goes on the outside of the biOrb's filter. The idea is to stop finer media material blocking up the biOrb filter but it also act as the main biological filter. I have heard that they do get dirty fairly quickly so can end up being a source of nitrate and they take a bit of messing about to get out and clean. They do make sense if you want sand with bottom feeders though (but saying that, I've had a number of pygmy Cory in one of my biOrbs for a long time now and they seem happy with ceramic media - with no problems). If I was going to convert a biOrb I would certainly go with PondGuru (AKA Richard at FilterPro - also have a look at his biohome biogravel which is probably a middle ground between ceramic media and gravel and he also reports longer term advantages in nitrate reduction). Personally, if I wanted a true sand media tank (and with real plants), I would probably find some space at home and get another tank. My first choice would be a Fluval Edge 46l. Hope that helps. Best, Mark
Thank you for this tip about installing a regulator and turning the air down. What type of algae eater or tank cleaner will go in a tank with a beta fish and the beta won't kill?
Hi. Many thanks for watching and I'm glad you found the video useful. The best algae/ diatom removers are snails, with the best ones being nerite snails (as they won't reproduce!). See my video here: th-cam.com/video/-3vdMac13T8/w-d-xo.html One or two of these will work well in a tank that is showing signs of algae. Nerites will get on fine with betta For cleaning waste etc, laying below the tank's ceramic media, the best approach is to use an aquarium vac. Regular cleaning using a vac will maintain better tank water conditions for your fish. By removing waste a vac also help to reduce the water conditions that encourage algae. See my video on vacs here: th-cam.com/video/wtU0Cqx9yes/w-d-xo.html I hope that helps. Best wishes. Mark
Hello, I have a question. I used this method for my betta, and it worked perfectly. My major problem is that I noticed that the decorations I have in my tank keep getting algae on the decorations only not the tank itself, just the decos. What am I doing wrong? Help! (I have the classic 4 gallon)
Hi Nina. It depends upon the age of the aquarium. It is very normal to see algae growth on items within a new aquarium. I would suggest up to to a year for things to really settle down. Algae growth is associated with two things… too many nutrients…. Too much aquarium lighting (normally both!). I can’t really say you are doing anything wrong it is just perhaps a matter of time. Ensuring that you are not over feeding your fish is a key way to reduce nutrients that promote algae. Also, using an aquarium vac to reduce waste (on a weekly basis) will also help. Finally, reduce the amount of light given to the aquarium each day should also help. Algae will not have any detrimental impact to your fish or aquarium. Can I ask what your nitrate levels get to just prior to a water change? In terms of cleaning/ removing algae from decor etc see my video on cleaning using bleach solution as this should get rid of most of it. Let me know if that helps. I could suggest using chemical additives to your water but my preference is to avoid this approach if possible. Best wishes, Mark
Hi Mark, I am a beginner. I have a Biorb Classic 4L. How does adjusting the air flow affect the oxygen in the tank? My betta struggled swimming with lots of air bubbles. Are air bubbles necessary for a bettas? What would happen if I turned off the air bubble? How does this affect the filter system? How does the filter system work on a Biorb? A video on how to set up a Biorb for specifically a Betta fish would be really helpful!!
Hi. Adjusting the air flow will certainly reduce the oxygen level in the tank. However, if your biOrb airflow is too strong this could also cause an impact on fish due to over oxygenation (i.e. supersaturation, which can lead to gas bubble disease)). Oxygenation of the water is more related to the movement (agitation/aeration) of water, especially at the surface layer. The bubbles cause the surface agitation in the case of a biOrb. Betta are very well adapted to cope with periods of low or deprived oxygen water conditions in their natural habitat (such conditions are variable). They can therefore survive periods of low oxygen conditions that other fish would simply struggle with. So they are very able, when conditions dictate, to utilise oxygen from the surface with the use of a labyrinth organ. But this adaption should be seen as a fall-back scenario compared to their use of gills. When I visit places like Brazil I often see Betta displayed in small jars of water (in aquarium shops). However I think it is essential to have some level of air flow for Betta for long-term health etc. As you say, the main reason to reduce air flow is to reduce water flow movement for certain species of Betta that struggle with strong water flow conditions. But air flow is not just related to the conditions needed for species such as Betta. The under gravel filter system within a biOrb relies on water flow - up, down, through and under the ceramic media. The beneficial bacteria needed to support fish (and which form the essential biological filter within the tank) also require oxygenated (aerobic) water conditions to support the conversion of waste related ammonia etc through to nitrate. Air flow is therefore essential to support the filtration system and the good water quality conditions needed for fish. I would certainly not support the idea of turning the air flow too low or off. So, it is all about finding a balance that is suitable for your specific fish and to also maintain the conditions needed in the tank to support healthy water conditions. If you are worried, you can get a water test that is specifically designed for testing dissolved oxygen levels within an aquarium, such as this: amzn.to/3BFlFqB (I suggest this sort of test rather than using test strips). Typical dissolved oxygen in a freshwater aquarium is say (roughly) 6 to 8 mg per litre (or 80-110%). Levels above 110% can be considered as being supersaturation. BTW, I can't say that I'm any form of expert on Betta, so it might be worth you looking on the internet for a website that provides more specific/detailed information on the ideal conditions for the specific Betta species you have. I hope that helps. Best wishes, Mark
Hi I have a 15 ltr biorb tank and was wondering if you reduce the air flow will that affect the filtration system and by the way I think your video's are extremely good and helpful. Alan
Hi Alan. Nice to hear from you. I think there are a range of answers to that one. Generally, reducing down the air flow won't make a great deal of difference to the filtration systems (mechanical and biological). I have tested lower flow and higher flow, in each case for a month, and then compared the amount of waste trapped in the sponge filter. It was virtually the same. The amount of waste getting trapped in the ceramic media is comparable either way too. A gravel vac is always the key way to reduce trapped waste from within/under the substrate media. Air flow can often be too high in a 15l. I think this relates to which air pump comes with the tank. biOrb often include an over specified air pump (i.e. the same model provided to operate the 60 and 105l). The video is aimed more at fixing this issue. The times that you may wish to reduce air flow down is: - a very high air flow through the aquarium (i.e. far too high, likely to be an over specified pump ). - the presence of fish that prefer lower water flow/movement (many of the larger finned fish are adapted for lower water movement) - too much noise being emitted from the tank base (resonating) or from the air pump itself. The reason to not adjust the air flow down is when you don't have any of the above. :-) High air flow is great when you have species that prefer higher oxygen and water movement (often the more streamlined, small fin species). For the initial establishment of bacteria, during cycling, higher dissolved oxygen helps to speed up the process. It makes sense to retain a high air flow (water surface agitation) throughout the cycling period until the beneficial bacteria are established. After that, fine turn it down. I hope that helps, let me know if not. Best wishes, Mark.
Thank you for this video. I just purchased a Cube 30L and the air pump is so loud. The buzzing is frustrating for me and I wonder if it causes my fish stress? Any suggestions on muffling the noise (I’ve tried putting the pump on a towel, but it’s not the vibration against furniture, it’s the pump itself) or have you ever tried replacing the Biorb pump with another brand?
Hi Gina. The use of an air regulator can help to reduce noise in a noisy pump (normally, but not always) if the pump is running with a high air flow to the tank. Have you identified that it is indeed the pump and isn't the base of the aquarium resonating? In terms of other products, yes I've tested a broad number of alternative pumps. The quietest model I have found to date is this one: amzn.to/3Ch41sI. It works well on a 30L and fits the biOrb air line (4mm). I've been running one on my 30 Flow for some time (since last March) without any issues. I would generally describe the biOrb air pump (if it is working normally) to be a "low-mid noise" air pump. There are far more expensive air pumps that are far louder (e.g. Eheim 100).
Just to add... Sometimes, during the setting up of a new tank, a small amount of water can enter the upper part of the airline (this normally happens if the tank has stood for a while without the air pump on). This can cause a noisy pump! The way to test this is to remove the airline from the pump and to blow up the air tube until air is running into the tank. Then put the airline back on to the pump. It takes a fair puff to do it, so take a deep breath!!! LOL. Worth trying this just in case! Best, Mark
@@StepbyStep-biOrb thank you for the suggestions. I took a deep breathe and blew into the airline, haha, still a similar level of noise. I ordered an air flow valve and will try that next. Thank you for sharing your tips and tricks!
This was just the solution I was looking for for my tank. Thank you 😊 As the air pump makes up the biorbs filtration system would reducing the airflow affect its performance?
Hi. Thanks for watching and I hope the video/Channel helps. As long as you maintain a reasonable airflow through the bubble tube this will provide a good draw of aerated water down and though the under gravel filter system. It is a good thing to use when the air flow in a tank is far too strong (especially on 15l tanks, and when you have fish that do no like a strong flow e.g. betta) but it can also be used as a method to reduce pump noise. I have regulators on all my tanks. Best wished, Mark
Oops, I should mention... a stronger water and airflow is one of the key things to support and speed up the initial cycling a tank and establishing beneficial bacteria. Once an aquarium is cycled then altering the air flow down a bit will not cause any obvious difference to the ongoing ability for tank bacteria to deal with ammonia, nitrite.
Hi. Thanks for watching. I add all product links (and further details) to each of my video's Description section. You would need to get something similar to these types of products: amzn.to/3vF3s9T amzn.to/3hKlVcU amzn.to/35cIMv4 They all do the same job and all fit the biOrb airline. Hope that helps. Best wishes, Mark
Thank you very much for your very useful videos. Dare I say I wish you’d write a book. … My question is how do I know if the airflow is ok in the first place before I even try to reduce the airflow ? Can you do a close up please of what is ok airflow … I’m keen to see the surface of the water
Hi Jacqui. Thanks for watching and for your support to the channel. I think the easiest thing for me to do is to show you what the airflow shouldn't look like in a biOrb, see here: th-cam.com/video/pybmXoaOpZw/w-d-xo.html. Basically, you should have a regular stream of bubbles coming through the bubble tube, but not an overly vigorous flow that causes a lot of water movement at the surface. I think, in most cases, the airflow is totally fine in most biOrbs - although I have had people mentioning a high air flow rate in the 15l size. I'm not sure why that is the case though, unless there is variation in biOrb air pumps. Certain fish species are naturally adapted to very still water conditions and are not so keen on a lot of water movement. The best example of those being Betta (fighting fish). Many other typical tropical fish suitable for a biOrb are far less bothered. If your air flow rate looks similar to mine, as shown in the 'Too many bubbles?' video, you will be fine. But, if you are worried about yours, feel free to send me a short video or a couple of photos using the Channel's email address: markbstepbystep@gmail.com. Hope that helps. Best wishes, Mark
Thank you so much. Spent this whole time trying to figure out how to reply. Deeefinitely would say my Airflow is too much . So now to get the bits to reduce it . It all seems a bit finnicky so I’ll watch the video again a few times before attempting
Ho Jacqui. Yes, go for it. Adding an adapter is a lot easier than you may think it would be! And, they are cheap to buy. Once added, you can then either keep the airflow as it is...or reduce it down. M
Mark- I inadvertently poured water down the air tube (where the bubbles come Out). as a result, there are now no bubbles coming out! I checked the stopgap, and there is no water in the line. Any suggestions?
Hi Lisa. I would suggest removing the air line from the air pump and gently (but firmly) blowing up the air tube until air starts to appear in the tank. Then connect the airline back into the pump. That is normally the common fix for reduced or no bubbles within the aquarium. Let me know if that fixes it. Best, Mark
I have the classic 60. I unplugged the hose from the air pump and blew into it as you suggested. That is a lot of hose to blow into and reach the inside of the tank. Absolutely no luck. No bubbles at all when i blow.
Yes, you need to blow reasonably hard for it to work You could try elevating the hose high above the tank and then try. blowing down. You will need to stand on a chair or something. The alternative method to do this is to use a bicycle pump with an adapter fitted to the pump. You push the pump adapter into the end of the hose and gently push air along the tube.
Hi Lisa. The check valve (positioned along the air tube) is a one way valve system so it shouldn't really make much difference to you being able to blow up the tube. However, if you were to cut it off from the air line you will need to replace it with a new one. They are very cheap and you would need to replace with one that fits a 4mm air line such as this one: amzn.to/3BqdQ7w. If you are not able to blow hard enough up the tube then the cycle pump approach I mentioned will do that. A biOrb has a one way valve that sits directly under the tank. I think you may have changed the direction of the value (by forcing water down the air tube). Blowing or forcing air up the tube will basically reset the valve direction under the aquarium. I'm sure, if you can do this, everything will return to normal.
Ciao Andrea, biOrb funziona bene con alcune piante che non necessitano di un substrato di terreno. Guarda il mio video sull'aggiunta di piante vere. Per aggiungere un substrato di terreno è necessario convertire il biOrb utilizzando un kit di conversione. Questi sono generalmente progettati per ghiaie e sabbie più piccole, ma ho affermato che possono supportare il substrato del suolo. Tuttavia, il sistema biOrb è progettato per essere un "filtro sotto ghiaia" e quindi richiede il movimento dell'acqua attraverso il materiale e di nuovo attraverso il filtro. Materiali come il suolo potrebbero ostacolare drasticamente il funzionamento del filtro. Il supporto ceramico costituisce anche il filtro biologico (il componente in spugna è un biOrb è un filtro meccanico). Fornisce i batteri necessari nell'acquario per sostenere i pesci. In genere non consiglierei la conversione in un substrato di terreno. Scegli invece piante che non necessitano di un substrato. Non conosco il flusso luminoso delle luci biOrb (varieranno anche in base al modello e al tipo di illuminazione. Ti suggerisco di contattare direttamente biOrb e parlare con qualcuno del loro ufficio tecnico. Spero di esserti stato d'aiuto. Grazie, Mark
I’m setting up my 60L classic biOrb now and I can’t get any bubbles through the tubing? I can blow into it and make bubbles. Any idea what I’m doing wrong?😢
Hi Sandy. The normal test for this issue is the one you have done - to blow up the tube to get bubbles in the tank. Sometimes, if the tank has been left for a while, some tank water can move into the air line and this can result in reduced or no air reaching the tank - so blowing down the air line pushes this water back into the tank. The other issue (very occasionally) is were the one way valve positioned directly under the tank gets stuck in the wrong direction! Normally this needs a stronger push of air through the airline to re-set the valve. This is best done with a small bicycle pump with an adapter fitted that fits the 4mm biOrb airline. One or two short controlled blasts of air up the airline and into the tank normally corrects this valve issue. What is a bit confusing is that you can blow up the airline and this still get a flow of bubbles in the tank? This probably cancels out that it could relate to a poorly fitted air stone or there being something stuck in the small tube that the air stone fits on to. The other thing to check is that your tank's base is not sitting on (crushing) the airline. The airline should be freely coming out of the base of the tank through the gap provided for the airline. If it is none of these, this sort of pushes the issue to being one related to the pump itself and whether it is pumping air. Beyond all of the above, I'm really scratching my head!! Best wishes, Mark
The valve issue that I mentioned above can sometimes be due to an initial fault with the "under tank" valve, when coming from the biOrb factory. But more often than not, it can happen when owners fill the tank with water and then accidentally pour some water directly down the air tube. This causes an incorrect water flow (i.e wrong direction) that can then result in pressure on the one way valve and can make it flip the other way. If this happens, it needs to be reset to the correct direction with the use of a bicycle air pump.
Hi I put a t valve on mine but I installed it after the check valve. I did not get water back flow so far.... I've had it running for a month this way. Now my airline will be too short if I decide to install it between the pump and check valve what do you think? thanks
Hey, how are you? Ideally you should have placed it between the existing check valve and the air pump. As it is, it will work fine, but the purpose of the check valve is to stop the tank from totally draining out (and onto the floor) in the event of an air pump failure. So, you run with the risk that the tank could drain out via the check valve. What I would do: I would get a replacement check valve and install this at the lowest point of of the existing air line (you need a check valve to fit a 4mm tubing) and I would also get a small length of 4mm air line tubing. You can then add the new airline and then the regulator within the section of new tube - between the (new) check valve and the pump. Does that make sense?
@Step-by-Step yes I can see what you mean. I had a look again and perhaps I can swap the check valve with the t valve since the check valve will be before the t valve. The only thing is the check valve would be much closer to the aquarium. I think this will still work out fine. Cheers and thank you for the quick reply 👍👍
Yes that sounds fine. The key thing is to get the check valve above/higher than everything else. It doesn't need to be right near the air pump, just needs to be somewhere between the tank and the pump. The check valve can then do its job in the event of pump failure. Regulators etc can be then placed below the position of the check valve in the airline. So, all sounds very fine to me. Best wishes to you. Mark
@@StepbyStep-biOrb Very strange indeed! No the only things that are new are the filter and the airstone. Pump is working fine and the air tube is fine- no water in side the tube! I really don’t understand what’s going on lol!
So, on the basis that it was all okay before hand ... I would suggest checking in this order: 1. Check the air stone. Perhaps just try replacing it to see if it that is the cause. Also, when you take the air stone off within the tank... do you get a reasonable air flow into the tank without it on? 2. I was going to suggest water trapped in the airline as that tends to be the main reason - but it sounds like you've checked that. There is also a small valve sitting under the tank (it sits between the air line and the base of the filter system). You wont be able to see it! You could check to make sure the valve hasn't got stuck in the wrong direction. You would either need to blow very hard down the air tube to get air coming up through the tank or attach the air tube to a bicycle pump and just give it a couple of gentle pushes through. That would reset the valve if it is that. 3. Are you sure your pump isn't in decline? Let me know. Best, Mark
@@StepbyStep-biOrb Okay thank you. The airflow is the same with or without the air stone in place. I have also tried to blow down the air tube really hard but it’s just the same, doesn’t even create any other bubbles. I don’t think the pump is in decline, I mean it’s still vibrating and I can feel air.
I have just tried my mums pump as she has a Biorb tank with really good airflow - has lots of bubbles but my tank seems to be with same with either pump
I’ve just brought a biorb, 30l tube the airflow seem quite high and has created a lot of bubbles on top of the water around the edges is this normal? As I could not see many bubble around then edge in your tank. Also i notice the air pump is quite noisy from the vibrations to a slight buzzing noise, do you have any recommendations where it should be kept/on what surface? Your videos have been very useful in setting up my biorb, I’ve learnt alot from your videos.I’ve had my new tank 3days now, I’ve not yet added any fish as I understand it’s best to wait a bit first.
Hi Steven. What you are seeing in terms of bubbles building-up on the surface might just be because the tank has only just been set up. I assume you are describing the time taken for surface bubbles to burst? If it relates to the quantity of bubbles coming up trough the bubble tube how does that flow compare to the bubble flow shown in my video? If you do have a high bubble flow I would suggest you leave that as it is as a higher flow will really support the cycling of the tank, once cycled you can then look to reduce. In terms of the noise. This might be part related to the bubble issue you mentioned. Double check if the noise is coming from the air pump itself or coming from the base of the aquarium. Let me know which. If from the pump, it could be because it is resonating against the floor or surface it is on - do you have a hard floor? If you lift the pump up and hold in your hand, whilst it is on, does the noise decrease? Also double check that your air stone in the tank is fitted correctly. Move it around a bit to see if that also adjusts the noise and perhaps also try removing the air stone to see if the noise reduces or increases? I think it is just a matter of playing around with different things to help find the source and then reduce the noise. It might just be something very straightforward. Yes, good idea to wait several days and just let the tank run (air on, heater on). This will help to stabilise things a bit (including the water) and also allows you to check that you have the right temperature etc suitable for your fish. How are you planning to cycle the tank? If adding bacteria (e.g. such as ATM Colony or similar) have you checked that your water parameters are in the right ball park for this (mainly pH and temp)? Best wishes, Mark
@@StepbyStep-biOrb hi mark Thankyou for your reply much appreciated. The air flow compared to yours in the videos is slightly higher I think,which has created a lot of bubbles. I have used the bacteria booster that came with the biorb and I also purchased the pump bottle bacteria from biorb. My water temp without a heater it’s 22c and drops by -1c over night. The ph level is showing around 8.
@@StepbyStep-biOrb the air pump itself is not to noisy, I have laminate flooring which it is on. The adapter seems to be what’s making the most noice it has a slight buzzing noise which when I change the light function on the tank seems to become noisier.🤷🏻♂️
That's great Steven. Well, keep the air flow as it is to help support the cycling, you can always add a valve to reduce air flow later on if needed - I would live with it for the time being. Bubbles should burst on the surface within about 4-6 seconds (normally). If you have already added the biOrb bacteria I suggest that it might be worth just adding a very small pinch of fish food to the tank (yes, even without fish!) as that will help start to get the cycling going. Perhaps also add a further dose of biOrb bacteria too if you have a bottle of it. You can't really over do adding bacterial products! The cycling will be a bit slower (take a bit longer) at 22c but that's fine (elevated temps help speed up the process that's all). I assume you intend to go with a non-heated tank? Adding a small amount of food should result in the water showing ammonia when tested (but this normally takes a day or two for the ammonia to show). If you wish to do "fish-in" cycling in a non-heated tank, I suggest add two zebra danios initially... say in a few days or more. You will need to monitor the progress of cycling by undertaking water testing - i.e. track the conversion of ammonia - to nitrite - then to nitrate. Hope that helps. Mark
Well that's new one for me! Lol! At least you have eliminated that it isn't the air pump (that's one down!). Is it to do with the lighting system then? When you turn LEDs off does the noise stop? Or is it the light unit (i.e. the tank's lid) that is causing the noise by vibrating (when you take the lid off the tank does the vibration stop?)
Hi Wendy. Yes...I totally agree! There does seem to be a problem with some of the 15 litre aquariums and the air pump (air flow). Basically a 15L aquarium (biOrb or not!) doesn't need the same size air pump as one provided for a 30L and larger... which seems to be what biOrb are supplying. This size or aquarium is ideally suited for having a Betta, but Betta also happen to be a species that are not at all happy with a high air flow. biOrb could either reduce the air pump size (it seems to be too high) or at least include a regulator, within the airline, to allow new owners to make their own adjustment. Clearly, air flow regulators are cheap to buy and are very easy to install, but that is missing the point that they should already have one included with their product. Nice to hear from you. Thanks for watching and commenting. Much appreciated. Mark
Hi. Not that I've ever noticed in the years I have used them, Many pump suppliers provide a regulator in the box with a new pump. Obviously, the tighter you screw them down (to really reduce airflow) the more back-pressure is applied to the pump. However, back pressure applies to any aquarium air pump as you are constantly using the pump to force air through very tiny holes in an air stone. If this is something that concerns you then add a bleed value to the airline instead. This allows a reduction of air pressure by allowing air to escape (i.e. it releases air pressure within the airline). Hope that helps. Best wishes, Mark
Hey Mark, me the pest! Haha! Can you ever have too little air flow? I’ve been staring at mine trying to work out if I’m still getting the same amount of bubbles/flow from when the tank and pump were new. Also, how often should I change the air stone? Mine hasn’t been changed. Tank started May this year. Thanks :)
Hey. Yes, you can have too little air flow. I would normally replace an air stone every 4 to 6 months (depending on how dirty it gets and also if there seems to be a reduction in air flow). Try replacing it with a new one to see if that fixes it. It probably will. Let me know. :)
My bio orb isn’t bubbling. Took the stone out and there is one bubble at a time… is this a problem with the bubble or the air stone? Because without the air stone still on bubbles one at at time.
Hi. I assume that your air pump is working? If so, the issue relates to a water blockage in the air line (air tube). To fix this... unplug the air line from the air pump. Raise the end of airline in the air above the height of the tank (leaving it still fixed to the tank). Use you mouth to blow hard down the air line until bubbles are coming though into the tank. Lower the air line back towards the ground and add back on the air pump. This should fix it... but let me know how you get on. Fingers crossed! Best, Mark
@@StepbyStep-biOrb wow thank you. It’s working now :) blowing air worked. The bubbles are going much faster now. Though I still need new air stones but now I know the pump isn’t broken as they’re expensive. 🙏🙏🙏
Great! I'm glad it worked... it often does! :) It normally happens if the aquarium is allowed to stand for a while without the air pump connected/switched on. Tank water slowly makes its way down the air line and when the air pump is switched back on it is unable to push the water back up into the tank. Blowing down the air line helps to clear it but it can need a really hard blow to work. Elevating the air line upwards (above the tank) makes it far easier. Anyway, next time it happens... you now know how to fix it!
@@StepbyStep-biOrb that makes so much sense. I bought a clearance returned item so I bet that’s what happened prior to purchase. Sold as “bubbler not working”. Now it is haha.
Hi Geneice, Micro bubbles tend to be more of a problem during colder months. The cold water coming from your supply is highly oxygenated and when it is released to the air (warmed) it releases oxygen in the form of micro bubbles. These cling to all surfaces and even more so in a brand new tank. By far the best way to remove them from surfaces in a tank is the biOrb multi cleaning tool amzn.to/3MNjN3X Please don't use an alternative item or product which may risk scratching the inside of your biOrb! If you want to reduce the amount of micro bubbles created during water changes the best approach is to fill-up water bottles several days in advance of doing the water change and leave those to stand in a warmish room. The gentle heating-up of the water will allow a good portion of the high oxygen level to gas off. When adding new water to the aquarium it is best to heat the temperature of the new water so that it is the same as the temp in the tank (this also limits the formation of bubbles). Best, Mark
Interesting. Micro bubbles are normally associated with temperature variation (colder water holding high concentration of oxygen). But, it can be a result of pH (pH swing) due to water off gassing CO2. What is the temp of your well water when extracted from your tap? When you say high pH what is the reading you have from your water source? How does this source pH compare to the pH in your tank after several days?
Hi Oliver and Step-by-step, I have just posted a video of my new biorb. Have a look and let me know what you think. I’m doing regular water tests on parameters.
Hi Vin. The tank looks really great (stunning!) It is very well designed and clearly you have put a lot of thought/ effort into it. Would be great to hear from you on the long-term maintenance of the conversion (and future water quality) you have chosen and how you will deal with the long term build-up of waste trapped in the converted filter sponge system. The biOrb aquarium design is already based on an under gravel filter system so keep me posted... It would be good to hear about the longer term benefit (say 1 year, rather than initial/short term) and also how you remove the waste build-up and nitrates. Great to hear from you and a big congrats on your wonderful tank! It looks really nice. Best wishes with the new tank, Mark
Hi Vin. I hope all is well. I was just checking, though my Channel comments, and I was just wondering how things are with the conversion you applied to your biOrb? It is the longer term performance I'm interested in! Best, Mark
@@StepbyStep-biOrb Hi Mark, thanks for your message. All is well here, hope you are too. The conversion is still going very strong. All the plants have doubled, it looks awesome. The water parameters remain exactly the same, I am only changing the water 2-3 weekly. Fish are all happy.
Hi Vin. Interesting reading here: aquariumscience.org/index.php/7-5-denitrifying-media/. I appreciate that you have a planted aquarium (i.e. an important means for nitrate reduction) but please let me know how things are going. Best, Mark
Loved your fish demonstrating by swimming to the surface when you turned the bubbles off 😂
Wow, thank you! I put my15 liter classic together perfectly after watching your set up video, then turned it on and realized there was no way I could put my betta in that underwater cyclone. So grateful that you provided this helpful information. Love your videos!
Lol, glad you found it Angela. Yes, the 15L, with standard biOrb air pump, turns into a Zacuzzi on steroids! Never a great scenario for a Betta.
If you are going to cycle the tank, you will get a faster cycle with good air flow though the tank (a colony of beneficial bacteria grows quicker with good air supply). Beyond cycling, turn it down low to keep your betta happy, especially when he does his trips up to the surface. Thanks for watching. :) Mark
Good to have you back… I’ve missed your videos
Thank you my friend. I got a bit down with the channel so I probably needed a bit of a break. But, it feels very good to be back. More to come from me. Hope you are well.
@@StepbyStep-biOrb keep going my friend… Your videos are extremely helpful 👍
Thank you! I've got 2 Bettas: Sunny & Blondie....bought two 4 gallon tanks & then was seeing people talking about the flow issue....SO glad I watched this video to get this sorted now.
I'm glad it helped. It is certainly an issue that is more pronounced in the smaller tanks It is an easy fix and doing it will bring the conditions in the tank to something more akin to the conditions Betta prefer and will often result in obvious changes in Betta behaviour... Overall they will appear to be happier and more willing to fully explore the aquarium. Say hello, from me, to Sunny and Blondie :)
So great to see you back again step by step. I don't really have this problem with my Biorb but I still enjoyed watching. A
Thanks. good to be back! Thanks for watching and adding comments. Best, Mark
Just set up my bi-orb over the weekend and placed a betta within it. I literally had questioned if the bubbles was too much. Thank you for this video, extremely helpful. (All your videos have been awesome btw)
Hi Vanessa. Great to hear from you and a big thanks for supporting the Channel. Yes, betta really don't like a strong water flow. If he's not using the full height of the aquarium's water column (i.e instead, is hanging around the lower half), and also not coming up to the surface regularly for a gulp of air, this is very likely to be the reason why. It seems to be a problem with the 15l tanks for some reason and air pumps - which also just happens to be the size of aquarium that many people will want to add a betta to (as they are a perfect aquarium for a betta). BTW, betta are probably the sweetest fish ever!! :). Any help needed... please just drop me a line. Mark
Thank you so much for this information. I bought a 15 litre biorb 2 days ago with too much airflow and now I can fix it. I love all your videos and you are officially my tropical fish guru. 😊
Thank you Christine... what a lovely message! :) Yes, the 15L size can suffer from too much airflow because biOrb supply the same air pump used for the larger aquariums. This low cost adaption will sort that out. You should also find that it will reduce the sound of the air pump/ aquarium. So, it's a double win! Thank you for your support to my channel. Best wishes, Mark.
Another great vídeo! Well come back Mark!
Many thanks. Really good to be back. Will be doing those give away products soon too :).
@@StepbyStep-biOrb i hope that i will win one of those giveaways
Hi Goncalo - I've added a new video covering the channel's monthly prize draws! I'm going to be doing one Prize Draw every month until I run out of the Oase biOrb supplied freebies.... unless they donate more, then i will just keep doing them :) Lol. I hope you are well. Best, Mark
This video was extremely helpful, thank you so much! My new beta fish is now much happier without the jacuzzi he was in because of the Biorb’s super strong bubbler! Such a simple, $5 fix, I really appreciate this tip.
I'm glad it helped. Many thanks for watching and for commenting. Best wishes, Mark
Another great video Mark! Now youve mentioned it I think my 30's air is a bit high and I also recently added a betta - which acts a bit like you said. i've ordered one of the adapters so will add to the tube at the weekend. I'd seen them before (in my local store) but wasnt completely sure how they work or how you fit them. looks very easy to do now that youve shown me one. Thanks again for your advice. Keep up the good work. Cheers, Pete
Thanks Pete. Glad you thought it was helpful. Hopefully, if your Betta is spending too much time towards the bottom of the aquarium this may solve that and you will start to see him (or her?) moving around the aquarium more and doing the normal Betta (and Dwarf Gourami) thing of taking air from the surface. Thanks for watching. Best, Mark
Very helpful video, thanks Mark!
Thanks Jon. Much appreciated and thanks also for the prompt that I needed to get this topic covered with a video. Best wishes, Mark
Excellent advice. Ive had betta before and they dont like heavy flow at all.
In my last tank I placed a small amount of sponge inside the air pipe which cut down the flow considerably.
No messing this time,
deffo getting a regulator for my new bio globe!
Many thanks for the video, top tip 👍
Yes, a flow regulator is the way to go. They are cheap, easy to fit, and you can adjust the flow outside the tank to get it exactly how you want it. If adding a regulator, it is best to do this after the tank has been cycled. Establishing beneficial bacteria (cycling) needs a good air flow to provide a higher oxygen content to support bacterial colonisation. After the tank is cycled (established) the air flow can then be adjusted to suit the requirements of your fish. Sometimes a regulator can also help to reduce aquarium noise/ sound. There can often be variation between the different biOrb air pumps. Those with too high an air flow can cause the tank to resonate (hum) as the base of the aquarium. Reducing flow can often remove or reduce this issue.
Just remember to fit the regulator near to the air pump and below the airline's stop valve/ one-way valve
Hope that helps.
Best wishes,
Mark
Many thanks Mark, much appreciated@@StepbyStep-biOrb
This channel is so brill! - so useful . I really love my Biorb - it makes getting water quality right so much easier , I think that the round design gives my little fighter much more of a sense of freedom because he doesn’t have any ‘walls’ to bump into - he can just keep swimming - and it looks great ! One problem , though - was the high turbulance . I was using a toothpaste squeezer to control it - Thank you so much Mr Strp by Step man ( I don’t know your name!) - have ordered a air control valve and I now know how to fit it . Best wishes from Sky and Shimmer ( Bristol , UK).
Hi Sky and Shimmer. Great to hear from you and thanks so much for your kind words. Yes, I agree about the orb shaped tanks. The the filter system also seems to work far better (at drawing in waste) when compared the flat bottomed biOrbs. That's true, your fish can swim for miles and never bump into walls! Lol :) A good idea to reduce your air flow for the Betta... the control valves are very easy to add to the airline and it will help to regulate the air flow to a level that is more suitable. Best wishes, Mark
Great video. Very helpful. Like others have said, really appreciate all of your excellent videos Mark. They have made getting started in the whole world of Biorb so much easier than it would have been otherwise.
Thanks Matt. Always great to hear that the Channel is helping people with their biOrbs. Thanks for your support. Best, Mark
This was so helpful, thank you!!!! I just bought my first Biorb a couple months ago. I purchased a 15 L for my Betta because I was hoping to add another fast/friendly fish eventually. My betta seems bored sometimes and I thought having a friend might help, but I'm aware of their aggression towards other fish and haven't taken that step yet. I've been watching your videos on set up, maintenance, etc. and they have been super helpful! This one especially because of my situation, my betta hates the airflow so I've only been running it half of the time. I would love to know more about bettas in biorbs and any other advice you have. Thank you for putting your knowledge out there for all of us to benefit from!
Hi Niki. Lovely to hear from you and thanks for watching the Channel. I can't say I've seen aggression between betta and other fish species (it can sometimes be the other way round!) as many betta are very placid. My local aquarium shop nearly always displays them with other species. I've had betta withe a number of different species and they have always been fine. I think, with betta, it is more about adding things that interest them as they are very inquisitive. In terms of other fish, they will get on with most placid/ community fish (such as Endler's, guppies, rasboras, tetras) but most other fish tend to be shoal fish (normally needing 5 and more) and you would be very limited in that respect with a 15L. The best choice would probably be pygmy cory catfish (which are tiny!) - you could go with having three of those. Alternatively a couple of nerite snails would work too, to add a bit of interest for him - or shrimps. Betta love to explore things so anything to add interest would work. I'd certainly suggest a couple of live plants (on rock) with broader leaf shapes as betta like to explore them and often like to rest on their leaves Hope that helps. Best, Mark
I've watched this one yet again. A brilliant video. Your advice is stunning and you always manage to bring things down to the very basics and cover any questions (people like me) would normally raise! I'm sure that's not easy but you seem to do it in your stride! Thanks again.
Many thanks for watching and supporting the Channel. Best wishes, Mark
Hi Mark,
I don't have to much trouble with air flow issues in the 30litre tube. Maybe because its fairly tall, but may fit a valve out of curiosity.
Good to see you back with your advice 👍
Thanks Peter and really nice to hear from you again. I was sort of expecting tanks over 15l to be fine. Great to hear yours is fine (mine are all good too). Just wanted check if biOrb have altered their pumps for some reason. I think a lot of people choose a betta for their 15l tanks so a high air flow is not very good in that case (but probably brilliant for cycling!!!) LOL.
Thank you your videos are so helpful
Hi. Glad you are finding them of use. If you need any help or advice just drop me a line through this comments section. Best wishes, Mark
Thank you so much for your information. I've been on here for hours trying to find out about check valve and air way flow placement. Finally found your video. You've helped me tremendously. Subscribed. 😁
Hi Missy. I'm glad you found the Channel. And thanks for subscribing :-) Yes, regulators are very easy to fit... you just need a pair of scissors and to fit one in the right place along the air line. If you need any help with aquarium stuff... just shout. Best wishes, Mark
@@StepbyStep-biOrb thank you, I will for sure. Just finished doing all check valves and flow placement for all of my 4 tank's. Have a wonderful weekend 💜
Thank you so much for all these videos and all the time and effort you put into them! I have been binge watching all your videos before i decided on the tank i wanted. i have bought a halo 30 liter for a betta and now i am rewatching your videos again to follow step by step. Though i have the disadvantage of living in northern europe and getting the same products as you is not that easy! My current biorb is as you said a jacuzzi and i realize now that its not supposed to be that way 😅 i will look around for the valve you use and maybe it will help a bit with the noise coming from the pump/aquarium too? Again, thank you for the advise and videos!!
Hi Jomah. Really happy to hear from you. I'm really glad you found the Channel and that you find my videos useful. Sorry to hear that products are not that easy to get where you are. This is something that I do clearly overlook (me, being in the UK and being able to get most things easily!). I'm sure that an adapter valve (regulator) will sort out your tank air-flow problems. It's an aquarium you need... not a jacuzzi! LOL. You will probably find that this will help to lower noise too. The key thing is to get a regulator valve that fits a 4mm air tube (i.e. the size that biOrb use for all their tanks). Best wishes to you. Mark.
Hello, thanks for the information.
I have 6 biorbs now, only my 8 gallon flow runs alot of bubbles, the others, 2 - 4 gallon classics, 9 gallon tube, 8 gallon cube and 8 gallon classic are good. I went from 1 biorb to 6 lol
Really love theses tanks.
Hi Donna. OMG you have more biOrbs than biOrb! :) LOL. I'm still waiting for a delivery of a new tank (60L) but I understand biOrb are having supply issues. Always great to hear from you! Best wishes, Mark
Great video, thank you! Would the regulators linked in the description work with a biorb life 15? Think I need one as the flow seems very fast.
Hi Stephen. Merry Christmas. Basically, biOrb use a 4mm size airline for their tanks. Any 4mm air regulator will work, so those provided in the links will fit all biOrbs. I hope that helps. Best wishes, Mark
Hello again, I'm setting up my 30 litre flow and it currently has no fish, hopefully getting them Sunday. Just a quick question regarding the noise, it's a second hand tank, I've placed the actual pump on some foam and it's very quiet. I have new airstone and filter but it seems to be a bit noiser than I would have expected in the actual tank. Can hear the bubbles with a constant noise. Is this normal? I've ordered a airflow regulator valve that I plan to fit. Looking at getting male endlers livebearers are they going to be OK with standard flow rate or should I reduce it with the valve? Many thanks
Hi. Hopefully the air regulator, when fitted, will sort this problem out. The noise relates to resonance at the base of the tank relating to air flow. It sounds like it might be a bit on the higher side! Livebearers are generally okay with most things including air supply (reasonably high to low settings are generally fine with them). I would use the regulator to get the sound to where you are happy with. Initially the good reason to have higher airflow is to help with the tank cycle (initial beneficial bacteria colony will expand better with higher air flow). I would tend to put up with the noise/sound until the tank is cycled and then look to turn the air flow down afterwards. Best, Mark
@@StepbyStep-biOrb thanks alot
Mine is the same. Pump is ok. Air bubbles so forceful they are creating so much noise!
One more thing, I did not see a link for the regulators, can you possibly provide one? The ones that I looked up online have a few different options, single way, 2 way, this is my first time owning an aquarium, so I am very green! Thanks again for your help!
Just found your link!
Thank you so much, that was a big help
You're welcome!
My 30l has this problem.. Pump is ok. Air bubbles so forceful they are creating so much noise! Wondered if it was because its all new and cycling but regulater to be purchased tomorrow. Thank you
Hi. The problem is the air pump and I doubt it would be to do with the tank being new or cycling. If you can put up with it for a little while, it is worth having the high flow air flow during tank cycling (beneficial bacteria colonise/cycle quicker with a good initial high oxygen content). Once the tank is fully cycled, then feel free to reduce the flow down to a reasonable level using a regulator. Best, Mark
Hi. My Biorb has started to sound really noisy {buzzing}, I've cleaned the removeable sponge filter and replaced the air-stone, but this hasn't helped. The pump is silent. The sound is coming from the tank it self. Any advice would be very gratefully received. Thank you.
Hi. Sounds like you have done the obvious things. I assume it was okay before?
Resonation sounds at the base of a biOrb tend to be related to a loose filter canister holder or related to the airflow into the aquarium.
It could be that the plastic " screw locks" on the filter canister (i.e. the bottom of the unit you remove that holds the sponge etc) are not gripping the unit in place well enough when it is screwed back in. These can be a bit flimsy and can easily be damaged and can then cause the unit to not lock properly. Are you reusing the sponge filter canister (i.e. adding your own alternative sponges, activated carbon) or are you replacing the whole cartridge with the 'biOrb Service Kit?
Try undoing the canister, turning it 180 degrees and then screwing it back in.
If that doesn't make any difference, try disconnecting the airline from the air pump, put the end of the airline into your mouth and blow up the airline to force air into the tank. Then connect it back together. The noise could be caused by a slight blockage in the airline.
Are you using an air regulator? Air regulators can often be used to adjust the airflow and remove resonation sound.
Let me know how you get on. Best, Mark
@@StepbyStep-biOrb Thank you so much for all the very useful information. I will systematically go through what you have advised and hopefully have a silent Biorb!
Thanks for the informative video, i really enjoy your content and find it very helpful. Do you have any experience with so called filter modifications? I have a 60l Biorb Cube, and I'm considering altering the filter by adding additional foam externally around the original filter canister. This would allow for a smaller grade of substrate to accommodate bottom feeders more comfortably. These "upgrades" are usually from biorb sceptics, but i wondered what your view on such things are, being a fan rather than a critic? I believe PondGuru has the most prominent TH-cam video of a biorb "hack" to create a more effective under gravel filter system.
Hi Oliver. Thanks again for watching. I've heard mixed reviews on the upgrades (some people love them, others don't, others have tried them and gone back to ceramic media). As you say, the adaption is a larger foam filter that goes on the outside of the biOrb's filter. The idea is to stop finer media material blocking up the biOrb filter but it also act as the main biological filter. I have heard that they do get dirty fairly quickly so can end up being a source of nitrate and they take a bit of messing about to get out and clean. They do make sense if you want sand with bottom feeders though (but saying that, I've had a number of pygmy Cory in one of my biOrbs for a long time now and they seem happy with ceramic media - with no problems). If I was going to convert a biOrb I would certainly go with PondGuru (AKA Richard at FilterPro - also have a look at his biohome biogravel which is probably a middle ground between ceramic media and gravel and he also reports longer term advantages in nitrate reduction). Personally, if I wanted a true sand media tank (and with real plants), I would probably find some space at home and get another tank. My first choice would be a Fluval Edge 46l. Hope that helps. Best, Mark
Interesting reading here: aquariumscience.org/index.php/7-5-denitrifying-media/.
Thank you for this tip about installing a regulator and turning the air down.
What type of algae eater or tank cleaner will go in a tank with a beta fish and the beta won't kill?
Hi. Many thanks for watching and I'm glad you found the video useful.
The best algae/ diatom removers are snails, with the best ones being nerite snails (as they won't reproduce!). See my video here: th-cam.com/video/-3vdMac13T8/w-d-xo.html One or two of these will work well in a tank that is showing signs of algae. Nerites will get on fine with betta
For cleaning waste etc, laying below the tank's ceramic media, the best approach is to use an aquarium vac. Regular cleaning using a vac will maintain better tank water conditions for your fish. By removing waste a vac also help to reduce the water conditions that encourage algae. See my video on vacs here: th-cam.com/video/wtU0Cqx9yes/w-d-xo.html
I hope that helps.
Best wishes.
Mark
Hello, I have a question. I used this method for my betta, and it worked perfectly. My major problem is that I noticed that the decorations I have in my tank keep getting algae on the decorations only not the tank itself, just the decos. What am I doing wrong? Help! (I have the classic 4 gallon)
Hi Nina. It depends upon the age of the aquarium. It is very normal to see algae growth on items within a new aquarium. I would suggest up to to a year for things to really settle down. Algae growth is associated with two things… too many nutrients…. Too much aquarium lighting (normally both!). I can’t really say you are doing anything wrong it is just perhaps a matter of time. Ensuring that you are not over feeding your fish is a key way to reduce nutrients that promote algae. Also, using an aquarium vac to reduce waste (on a weekly basis) will also help. Finally, reduce the amount of light given to the aquarium each day should also help. Algae will not have any detrimental impact to your fish or aquarium. Can I ask what your nitrate levels get to just prior to a water change? In terms of cleaning/ removing algae from decor etc see my video on cleaning using bleach solution as this should get rid of most of it. Let me know if that helps. I could suggest using chemical additives to your water but my preference is to avoid this approach if possible. Best wishes, Mark
Hi Mark, I am a beginner. I have a Biorb Classic 4L. How does adjusting the air flow affect the oxygen in the tank? My betta struggled swimming with lots of air bubbles. Are air bubbles necessary for a bettas? What would happen if I turned off the air bubble? How does this affect the filter system? How does the filter system work on a Biorb? A video on how to set up a Biorb for specifically a Betta fish would be really helpful!!
Hi. Adjusting the air flow will certainly reduce the oxygen level in the tank. However, if your biOrb airflow is too strong this could also cause an impact on fish due to over oxygenation (i.e. supersaturation, which can lead to gas bubble disease)).
Oxygenation of the water is more related to the movement (agitation/aeration) of water, especially at the surface layer. The bubbles cause the surface agitation in the case of a biOrb.
Betta are very well adapted to cope with periods of low or deprived oxygen water conditions in their natural habitat (such conditions are variable). They can therefore survive periods of low oxygen conditions that other fish would simply struggle with. So they are very able, when conditions dictate, to utilise oxygen from the surface with the use of a labyrinth organ. But this adaption should be seen as a fall-back scenario compared to their use of gills. When I visit places like Brazil I often see Betta displayed in small jars of water (in aquarium shops). However I think it is essential to have some level of air flow for Betta for long-term health etc. As you say, the main reason to reduce air flow is to reduce water flow movement for certain species of Betta that struggle with strong water flow conditions.
But air flow is not just related to the conditions needed for species such as Betta. The under gravel filter system within a biOrb relies on water flow - up, down, through and under the ceramic media. The beneficial bacteria needed to support fish (and which form the essential biological filter within the tank) also require oxygenated (aerobic) water conditions to support the conversion of waste related ammonia etc through to nitrate. Air flow is therefore essential to support the filtration system and the good water quality conditions needed for fish. I would certainly not support the idea of turning the air flow too low or off.
So, it is all about finding a balance that is suitable for your specific fish and to also maintain the conditions needed in the tank to support healthy water conditions.
If you are worried, you can get a water test that is specifically designed for testing dissolved oxygen levels within an aquarium, such as this: amzn.to/3BFlFqB (I suggest this sort of test rather than using test strips). Typical dissolved oxygen in a freshwater aquarium is say (roughly) 6 to 8 mg per litre (or 80-110%). Levels above 110% can be considered as being supersaturation.
BTW, I can't say that I'm any form of expert on Betta, so it might be worth you looking on the internet for a website that provides more specific/detailed information on the ideal conditions for the specific Betta species you have.
I hope that helps.
Best wishes, Mark
Hi I have a 15 ltr biorb tank and was wondering if you reduce the air flow will that affect the filtration system and by the way I think your video's are extremely good and helpful.
Alan
Hi Alan. Nice to hear from you. I think there are a range of answers to that one.
Generally, reducing down the air flow won't make a great deal of difference to the filtration systems (mechanical and biological). I have tested lower flow and higher flow, in each case for a month, and then compared the amount of waste trapped in the sponge filter. It was virtually the same. The amount of waste getting trapped in the ceramic media is comparable either way too. A gravel vac is always the key way to reduce trapped waste from within/under the substrate media.
Air flow can often be too high in a 15l. I think this relates to which air pump comes with the tank. biOrb often include an over specified air pump (i.e. the same model provided to operate the 60 and 105l). The video is aimed more at fixing this issue.
The times that you may wish to reduce air flow down is:
- a very high air flow through the aquarium (i.e. far too high, likely to be an over specified pump ).
- the presence of fish that prefer lower water flow/movement (many of the larger finned fish are adapted for lower water movement)
- too much noise being emitted from the tank base (resonating) or from the air pump itself.
The reason to not adjust the air flow down is when you don't have any of the above. :-)
High air flow is great when you have species that prefer higher oxygen and water movement (often the more streamlined, small fin species).
For the initial establishment of bacteria, during cycling, higher dissolved oxygen helps to speed up the process. It makes sense to retain a high air flow (water surface agitation) throughout the cycling period until the beneficial bacteria are established. After that, fine turn it down.
I hope that helps, let me know if not. Best wishes, Mark.
Thank you for this video. I just purchased a Cube 30L and the air pump is so loud. The buzzing is frustrating for me and I wonder if it causes my fish stress? Any suggestions on muffling the noise (I’ve tried putting the pump on a towel, but it’s not the vibration against furniture, it’s the pump itself) or have you ever tried replacing the Biorb pump with another brand?
Hi Gina. The use of an air regulator can help to reduce noise in a noisy pump (normally, but not always) if the pump is running with a high air flow to the tank. Have you identified that it is indeed the pump and isn't the base of the aquarium resonating? In terms of other products, yes I've tested a broad number of alternative pumps. The quietest model I have found to date is this one: amzn.to/3Ch41sI. It works well on a 30L and fits the biOrb air line (4mm). I've been running one on my 30 Flow for some time (since last March) without any issues. I would generally describe the biOrb air pump (if it is working normally) to be a "low-mid noise" air pump. There are far more expensive air pumps that are far louder (e.g. Eheim 100).
Just to add... Sometimes, during the setting up of a new tank, a small amount of water can enter the upper part of the airline (this normally happens if the tank has stood for a while without the air pump on). This can cause a noisy pump! The way to test this is to remove the airline from the pump and to blow up the air tube until air is running into the tank. Then put the airline back on to the pump. It takes a fair puff to do it, so take a deep breath!!! LOL. Worth trying this just in case! Best, Mark
@@StepbyStep-biOrb thank you for the suggestions. I took a deep breathe and blew into the airline, haha, still a similar level of noise. I ordered an air flow valve and will try that next. Thank you for sharing your tips and tricks!
This was just the solution I was looking for for my tank. Thank you 😊
As the air pump makes up the biorbs filtration system would reducing the airflow affect its performance?
Hi. Thanks for watching and I hope the video/Channel helps. As long as you maintain a reasonable airflow through the bubble tube this will provide a good draw of aerated water down and though the under gravel filter system. It is a good thing to use when the air flow in a tank is far too strong (especially on 15l tanks, and when you have fish that do no like a strong flow e.g. betta) but it can also be used as a method to reduce pump noise. I have regulators on all my tanks. Best wished, Mark
Oops, I should mention... a stronger water and airflow is one of the key things to support and speed up the initial cycling a tank and establishing beneficial bacteria. Once an aquarium is cycled then altering the air flow down a bit will not cause any obvious difference to the ongoing ability for tank bacteria to deal with ammonia, nitrite.
Mark mentions he would show us which regulator to buy, but I can’t find the reference. Dies someone have the link?
Hi. Thanks for watching.
I add all product links (and further details) to each of my video's Description section. You would need to get something similar to these types of products:
amzn.to/3vF3s9T
amzn.to/3hKlVcU
amzn.to/35cIMv4
They all do the same job and all fit the biOrb airline.
Hope that helps.
Best wishes, Mark
Thank you very much for your very useful videos. Dare I say I wish you’d write a book. … My question is how do I know if the airflow is ok in the first place before I even try to reduce the airflow ? Can you do a close up please of what is ok airflow … I’m keen to see the surface of the water
Hi Jacqui. Thanks for watching and for your support to the channel. I think the easiest thing for me to do is to show you what the airflow shouldn't look like in a biOrb, see here: th-cam.com/video/pybmXoaOpZw/w-d-xo.html. Basically, you should have a regular stream of bubbles coming through the bubble tube, but not an overly vigorous flow that causes a lot of water movement at the surface. I think, in most cases, the airflow is totally fine in most biOrbs - although I have had people mentioning a high air flow rate in the 15l size. I'm not sure why that is the case though, unless there is variation in biOrb air pumps. Certain fish species are naturally adapted to very still water conditions and are not so keen on a lot of water movement. The best example of those being Betta (fighting fish). Many other typical tropical fish suitable for a biOrb are far less bothered. If your air flow rate looks similar to mine, as shown in the 'Too many bubbles?' video, you will be fine. But, if you are worried about yours, feel free to send me a short video or a couple of photos using the Channel's email address: markbstepbystep@gmail.com. Hope that helps. Best wishes, Mark
Also, have a look at this video (go to 14.10 mins) as it might show a typical air flow better: th-cam.com/video/M3OloFDYNrw/w-d-xo.html.
Thank you so much. Spent this whole time trying to figure out how to reply. Deeefinitely would say my
Airflow is too much . So now to get the bits to reduce it . It all seems a bit finnicky so I’ll watch the video again a few times before attempting
Ho Jacqui. Yes, go for it. Adding an adapter is a lot easier than you may think it would be! And, they are cheap to buy. Once added, you can then either keep the airflow as it is...or reduce it down. M
Mark- I inadvertently poured water down the air tube (where the bubbles come
Out). as a result, there are now no bubbles coming out! I checked the stopgap, and there is no water in the line. Any suggestions?
Hi Lisa. I would suggest removing the air line from the air pump and gently (but firmly) blowing up the air tube until air starts to appear in the tank. Then connect the airline back into the pump. That is normally the common fix for reduced or no bubbles within the aquarium. Let me know if that fixes it. Best, Mark
I have the classic 60. I unplugged the hose from the air pump and blew into it as you suggested. That is a lot of hose to blow into and reach the inside of the tank. Absolutely no luck. No bubbles at all when i blow.
Yes, you need to blow reasonably hard for it to work You could try elevating the hose high above the tank and then try. blowing down. You will need to stand on a chair or something. The alternative method to do this is to use a bicycle pump with an adapter fitted to the pump. You push the pump adapter into the end of the hose and gently push air along the tube.
One more question. Should I cut the stop gap out and then blow? Then stitch the stop gap back into the line?
Hi Lisa. The check valve (positioned along the air tube) is a one way valve system so it shouldn't really make much difference to you being able to blow up the tube. However, if you were to cut it off from the air line you will need to replace it with a new one. They are very cheap and you would need to replace with one that fits a 4mm air line such as this one: amzn.to/3BqdQ7w. If you are not able to blow hard enough up the tube then the cycle pump approach I mentioned will do that. A biOrb has a one way valve that sits directly under the tank. I think you may have changed the direction of the value (by forcing water down the air tube). Blowing or forcing air up the tube will basically reset the valve direction under the aquarium. I'm sure, if you can do this, everything will return to normal.
Mettere un fondo fertile, con piante vere?
E magari sapere quanti lumen emettono i led?
Ciao Andrea,
biOrb funziona bene con alcune piante che non necessitano di un substrato di terreno. Guarda il mio video sull'aggiunta di piante vere. Per aggiungere un substrato di terreno è necessario convertire il biOrb utilizzando un kit di conversione. Questi sono generalmente progettati per ghiaie e sabbie più piccole, ma ho affermato che possono supportare il substrato del suolo. Tuttavia, il sistema biOrb è progettato per essere un "filtro sotto ghiaia" e quindi richiede il movimento dell'acqua attraverso il materiale e di nuovo attraverso il filtro. Materiali come il suolo potrebbero ostacolare drasticamente il funzionamento del filtro. Il supporto ceramico costituisce anche il filtro biologico (il componente in spugna è un biOrb è un filtro meccanico). Fornisce i batteri necessari nell'acquario per sostenere i pesci. In genere non consiglierei la conversione in un substrato di terreno. Scegli invece piante che non necessitano di un substrato.
Non conosco il flusso luminoso delle luci biOrb (varieranno anche in base al modello e al tipo di illuminazione. Ti suggerisco di contattare direttamente biOrb e parlare con qualcuno del loro ufficio tecnico. Spero di esserti stato d'aiuto. Grazie, Mark
I’m setting up my 60L classic biOrb now and I can’t get any bubbles through the tubing? I can blow into it and make bubbles. Any idea what I’m doing wrong?😢
Hi Sandy. The normal test for this issue is the one you have done - to blow up the tube to get bubbles in the tank. Sometimes, if the tank has been left for a while, some tank water can move into the air line and this can result in reduced or no air reaching the tank - so blowing down the air line pushes this water back into the tank. The other issue (very occasionally) is were the one way valve positioned directly under the tank gets stuck in the wrong direction! Normally this needs a stronger push of air through the airline to re-set the valve. This is best done with a small bicycle pump with an adapter fitted that fits the 4mm biOrb airline. One or two short controlled blasts of air up the airline and into the tank normally corrects this valve issue. What is a bit confusing is that you can blow up the airline and this still get a flow of bubbles in the tank? This probably cancels out that it could relate to a poorly fitted air stone or there being something stuck in the small tube that the air stone fits on to.
The other thing to check is that your tank's base is not sitting on (crushing) the airline. The airline should be freely coming out of the base of the tank through the gap provided for the airline.
If it is none of these, this sort of pushes the issue to being one related to the pump itself and whether it is pumping air. Beyond all of the above, I'm really scratching my head!! Best wishes, Mark
The valve issue that I mentioned above can sometimes be due to an initial fault with the "under tank" valve, when coming from the biOrb factory. But more often than not, it can happen when owners fill the tank with water and then accidentally pour some water directly down the air tube. This causes an incorrect water flow (i.e wrong direction) that can then result in pressure on the one way valve and can make it flip the other way. If this happens, it needs to be reset to the correct direction with the use of a bicycle air pump.
Hi I put a t valve on mine but I installed it after the check valve. I did not get water back flow so far.... I've had it running for a month this way. Now my airline will be too short if I decide to install it between the pump and check valve what do you think? thanks
Hey, how are you? Ideally you should have placed it between the existing check valve and the air pump. As it is, it will work fine, but the purpose of the check valve is to stop the tank from totally draining out (and onto the floor) in the event of an air pump failure. So, you run with the risk that the tank could drain out via the check valve. What I would do: I would get a replacement check valve and install this at the lowest point of of the existing air line (you need a check valve to fit a 4mm tubing) and I would also get a small length of 4mm air line tubing. You can then add the new airline and then the regulator within the section of new tube - between the (new) check valve and the pump. Does that make sense?
@Step-by-Step yes I can see what you mean. I had a look again and perhaps I can swap the check valve with the t valve since the check valve will be before the t valve. The only thing is the check valve would be much closer to the aquarium. I think this will still work out fine. Cheers and thank you for the quick reply 👍👍
Yes that sounds fine. The key thing is to get the check valve above/higher than everything else. It doesn't need to be right near the air pump, just needs to be somewhere between the tank and the pump. The check valve can then do its job in the event of pump failure. Regulators etc can be then placed below the position of the check valve in the airline. So, all sounds very fine to me. Best wishes to you. Mark
@Step-by-Step awesome Marc I appreciate you and your time. Very nice videos I hope to see more of your educational videos in the future my friend. 👌👌👌
Hello. Please can you tell why I have so little bubbles and what I could possibly do to create a better airflow? Thanks
Hi Kylie. That's unusual as normally I get asked how to reduce! Is the issue on a new aquarium/pump?
@@StepbyStep-biOrb Very strange indeed!
No the only things that are new are the filter and the airstone. Pump is working fine and the air tube is fine- no water in side the tube! I really don’t understand what’s going on lol!
So, on the basis that it was all okay before hand ... I would suggest checking in this order:
1. Check the air stone. Perhaps just try replacing it to see if it that is the cause. Also, when you take the air stone off within the tank... do you get a reasonable air flow into the tank without it on?
2. I was going to suggest water trapped in the airline as that tends to be the main reason - but it sounds like you've checked that. There is also a small valve sitting under the tank (it sits between the air line and the base of the filter system). You wont be able to see it! You could check to make sure the valve hasn't got stuck in the wrong direction. You would either need to blow very hard down the air tube to get air coming up through the tank or attach the air tube to a bicycle pump and just give it a couple of gentle pushes through. That would reset the valve if it is that.
3. Are you sure your pump isn't in decline?
Let me know. Best, Mark
@@StepbyStep-biOrb Okay thank you.
The airflow is the same with or without the air stone in place. I have also tried to blow down the air tube really hard but it’s just the same, doesn’t even create any other bubbles. I don’t think the pump is in decline, I mean it’s still vibrating and I can feel air.
I have just tried my mums pump as she has a Biorb tank with really good airflow - has lots of bubbles but my tank seems to be with same with either pump
I’ve just brought a biorb, 30l tube the airflow seem quite high and has created a lot of bubbles on top of the water around the edges is this normal? As I could not see many bubble around then edge in your tank. Also i notice the air pump is quite noisy from the vibrations to a slight buzzing noise, do you have any recommendations where it should be kept/on what surface? Your videos have been very useful in setting up my biorb, I’ve learnt alot from your videos.I’ve had my new tank 3days now, I’ve not yet added any fish as I understand it’s best to wait a bit first.
Hi Steven. What you are seeing in terms of bubbles building-up on the surface might just be because the tank has only just been set up. I assume you are describing the time taken for surface bubbles to burst? If it relates to the quantity of bubbles coming up trough the bubble tube how does that flow compare to the bubble flow shown in my video? If you do have a high bubble flow I would suggest you leave that as it is as a higher flow will really support the cycling of the tank, once cycled you can then look to reduce.
In terms of the noise. This might be part related to the bubble issue you mentioned. Double check if the noise is coming from the air pump itself or coming from the base of the aquarium. Let me know which. If from the pump, it could be because it is resonating against the floor or surface it is on - do you have a hard floor? If you lift the pump up and hold in your hand, whilst it is on, does the noise decrease? Also double check that your air stone in the tank is fitted correctly. Move it around a bit to see if that also adjusts the noise and perhaps also try removing the air stone to see if the noise reduces or increases? I think it is just a matter of playing around with different things to help find the source and then reduce the noise. It might just be something very straightforward.
Yes, good idea to wait several days and just let the tank run (air on, heater on). This will help to stabilise things a bit (including the water) and also allows you to check that you have the right temperature etc suitable for your fish. How are you planning to cycle the tank? If adding bacteria (e.g. such as ATM Colony or similar) have you checked that your water parameters are in the right ball park for this (mainly pH and temp)? Best wishes, Mark
@@StepbyStep-biOrb hi mark Thankyou for your reply much appreciated. The air flow compared to yours in the videos is slightly higher I think,which has created a lot of bubbles. I have used the bacteria booster that came with the biorb and I also purchased the pump bottle bacteria from biorb. My water temp without a heater it’s 22c and drops by -1c over night. The ph level is showing around 8.
@@StepbyStep-biOrb the air pump itself is not to noisy, I have laminate flooring which it is on. The adapter seems to be what’s making the most noice it has a slight buzzing noise which when I change the light function on the tank seems to become noisier.🤷🏻♂️
That's great Steven. Well, keep the air flow as it is to help support the cycling, you can always add a valve to reduce air flow later on if needed - I would live with it for the time being. Bubbles should burst on the surface within about 4-6 seconds (normally). If you have already added the biOrb bacteria I suggest that it might be worth just adding a very small pinch of fish food to the tank (yes, even without fish!) as that will help start to get the cycling going. Perhaps also add a further dose of biOrb bacteria too if you have a bottle of it. You can't really over do adding bacterial products! The cycling will be a bit slower (take a bit longer) at 22c but that's fine (elevated temps help speed up the process that's all). I assume you intend to go with a non-heated tank? Adding a small amount of food should result in the water showing ammonia when tested (but this normally takes a day or two for the ammonia to show). If you wish to do "fish-in" cycling in a non-heated tank, I suggest add two zebra danios initially... say in a few days or more. You will need to monitor the progress of cycling by undertaking water testing - i.e. track the conversion of ammonia - to nitrite - then to nitrate. Hope that helps. Mark
Well that's new one for me! Lol! At least you have eliminated that it isn't the air pump (that's one down!). Is it to do with the lighting system then? When you turn LEDs off does the noise stop? Or is it the light unit (i.e. the tank's lid) that is causing the noise by vibrating (when you take the lid off the tank does the vibration stop?)
I think BiOrb could help , by selling an Air flow regulator valve with
“Halo 15 “ whole set to begin with 😄👍💗
Hi Wendy. Yes...I totally agree! There does seem to be a problem with some of the 15 litre aquariums and the air pump (air flow). Basically a 15L aquarium (biOrb or not!) doesn't need the same size air pump as one provided for a 30L and larger... which seems to be what biOrb are supplying. This size or aquarium is ideally suited for having a Betta, but Betta also happen to be a species that are not at all happy with a high air flow. biOrb could either reduce the air pump size (it seems to be too high) or at least include a regulator, within the airline, to allow new owners to make their own adjustment. Clearly, air flow regulators are cheap to buy and are very easy to install, but that is missing the point that they should already have one included with their product. Nice to hear from you. Thanks for watching and commenting. Much appreciated. Mark
Does this hurt the air pump by putting more pressure on it?
Hi. Not that I've ever noticed in the years I have used them, Many pump suppliers provide a regulator in the box with a new pump.
Obviously, the tighter you screw them down (to really reduce airflow) the more back-pressure is applied to the pump. However, back pressure applies to any aquarium air pump as you are constantly using the pump to force air through very tiny holes in an air stone.
If this is something that concerns you then add a bleed value to the airline instead. This allows a reduction of air pressure by allowing air to escape (i.e. it releases air pressure within the airline).
Hope that helps. Best wishes, Mark
Hey Mark, me the pest! Haha! Can you ever have too little air flow? I’ve been staring at mine trying to work out if I’m still getting the same amount of bubbles/flow from when the tank and pump were new. Also, how often should I change the air stone? Mine hasn’t been changed. Tank started May this year. Thanks :)
Hey. Yes, you can have too little air flow. I would normally replace an air stone every 4 to 6 months (depending on how dirty it gets and also if there seems to be a reduction in air flow). Try replacing it with a new one to see if that fixes it. It probably will. Let me know. :)
@@StepbyStep-biOrb Yes it sounds like I’m over due it being changed. I have a spare, I’ll pop it. Thanks.
Not a problem. Hopefully that will fix it. M
My bio orb isn’t bubbling. Took the stone out and there is one bubble at a time… is this a problem with the bubble or the air stone? Because without the air stone still on bubbles one at at time.
Hi. I assume that your air pump is working? If so, the issue relates to a water blockage in the air line (air tube). To fix this... unplug the air line from the air pump. Raise the end of airline in the air above the height of the tank (leaving it still fixed to the tank). Use you mouth to blow hard down the air line until bubbles are coming though into the tank. Lower the air line back towards the ground and add back on the air pump. This should fix it... but let me know how you get on. Fingers crossed! Best, Mark
@@StepbyStep-biOrb wow thank you. It’s working now :) blowing air worked. The bubbles are going much faster now. Though I still need new air stones but now I know the pump isn’t broken as they’re expensive. 🙏🙏🙏
Great! I'm glad it worked... it often does! :) It normally happens if the aquarium is allowed to stand for a while without the air pump connected/switched on. Tank water slowly makes its way down the air line and when the air pump is switched back on it is unable to push the water back up into the tank. Blowing down the air line helps to clear it but it can need a really hard blow to work. Elevating the air line upwards (above the tank) makes it far easier. Anyway, next time it happens... you now know how to fix it!
@@StepbyStep-biOrb that makes so much sense. I bought a clearance returned item so I bet that’s what happened prior to purchase. Sold as “bubbler not working”. Now it is haha.
Hiw do i get rid of micro bubbles?
Hi Geneice, Micro bubbles tend to be more of a problem during colder months. The cold water coming from your supply is highly oxygenated and when it is released to the air (warmed) it releases oxygen in the form of micro bubbles. These cling to all surfaces and even more so in a brand new tank. By far the best way to remove them from surfaces in a tank is the biOrb multi cleaning tool amzn.to/3MNjN3X Please don't use an alternative item or product which may risk scratching the inside of your biOrb! If you want to reduce the amount of micro bubbles created during water changes the best approach is to fill-up water bottles several days in advance of doing the water change and leave those to stand in a warmish room. The gentle heating-up of the water will allow a good portion of the high oxygen level to gas off. When adding new water to the aquarium it is best to heat the temperature of the new water so that it is the same as the temp in the tank (this also limits the formation of bubbles). Best, Mark
I had the water tested. The PH is ridiculously high. It's clearing up. I'm surprised since I use well water.
Interesting. Micro bubbles are normally associated with temperature variation (colder water holding high concentration of oxygen). But, it can be a result of pH (pH swing) due to water off gassing CO2. What is the temp of your well water when extracted from your tap? When you say high pH what is the reading you have from your water source? How does this source pH compare to the pH in your tank after several days?
Hi Oliver and Step-by-step, I have just posted a video of my new biorb. Have a look and let me know what you think. I’m doing regular water tests on parameters.
Hi Vin. The tank looks really great (stunning!) It is very well designed and clearly you have put a lot of thought/ effort into it. Would be great to hear from you on the long-term maintenance of the conversion (and future water quality) you have chosen and how you will deal with the long term build-up of waste trapped in the converted filter sponge system. The biOrb aquarium design is already based on an under gravel filter system so keep me posted... It would be good to hear about the longer term benefit (say 1 year, rather than initial/short term) and also how you remove the waste build-up and nitrates. Great to hear from you and a big congrats on your wonderful tank! It looks really nice. Best wishes with the new tank, Mark
@@StepbyStep-biOrb thanks Mark! Also, thanks for your channel and hard work. I look forward to learning more about biorbs/fish keeping.
Hi Vin. I hope all is well. I was just checking, though my Channel comments, and I was just wondering how things are with the conversion you applied to your biOrb? It is the longer term performance I'm interested in! Best, Mark
@@StepbyStep-biOrb Hi Mark, thanks for your message. All is well here, hope you are too. The conversion is still going very strong. All the plants have doubled, it looks awesome. The water parameters remain exactly the same, I am only changing the water 2-3 weekly. Fish are all happy.
Hi Vin. Interesting reading here: aquariumscience.org/index.php/7-5-denitrifying-media/. I appreciate that you have a planted aquarium (i.e. an important means for nitrate reduction) but please let me know how things are going. Best, Mark