Your test is excellent. I was wondering the exact same thing and you got it done. When I go to the range next time I want to repeat the same test but using a 6.5 Creedmoor .
So just an observation, and from my own experiences. Poi shift is no doubt from the weight of the ornaments hanging from the barrel. Every time something is added the harmonics are changing. The point of which the projectile is leaving the barrel is changing due to dampening of vibrations, changing the exit location. When you find the accuracy node you find the point of weightlessness...... free floating, or in suspension. It's that point on a rollercoaster going over the humps when you leave the seat, and for a split second you are suspended in a state of weightlessness. This barrel should have a high velocity and a low velocity node. Thinner barrels do have more of a whipping motion unless they are shorter. Shorter is stiffer. By adding the additional weight you are dampening the vibrations, dampening the whip, increasing velocity, and improving accuracy. I want to send you a doppler chrono, or a stand alone chronograph. I've watched every video you've produced, and love them all........ to be honest the magneto speed hanging off of the barrel during accuracy tests isn't giving the barrel/suppressor combo an accurate result. Knowing what your rigs will do in hunting, or combat setups is invaluable. I completely understand why you use it, and in most vids there is very little, or would be very little poi shifts with it on. Just my opinion, and again love the vids, and appreciate all you do. Everything has an affect. Worked up an accurate load in my 300 win mag using Winchester brass... 76.5 grains of h-1000... 3/8" groups at 100 yards and running 2916..... switched to nosler brass, and with same charge weight gained 4 fps..... accuracy went to 1/2"... No big deal!.... New lot of nosler brass with same charge weight... 2950 fps. Pressure signs and poi. Shift down 5-1/2" at 200 yards... pissing me off!... in my mind I should be impacting higher than my expected poi. Due to harmonics and the location of my barrel when the pill was exiting it gave me a lower poi. Barrel hadn't made it to its g-spot!!!!..... So I bored you with that to just say what I've already said... run the tests how it's gonna be used, and then we will see what she's actually gonna do. Freaking love the chamber chillers!... excellent product/idea and gotta get my hands on one or 4. I will take no less than 4 rifles to the range when doing load test. Keep them in rotation and always let the barrels cool down for 20-30 minutes between 5 shot groups. These killer chillers should help with saving some time!!!!!.... Ok I'm done!... You rock, and hurry up and post another vid.... Imma be at work at 6 a.m. and I want some more shooting to watch!... I've got a fever, and the only prescription is more Johnny's reloading bench!!!!... haha
Benjamin Brown My experiences haven’t echo’d yours regarding the Magnetospeed effecting group size. I have strapped that thing on every barrel from hunting pencil to straight bull, and while I do see a POI shift on nearly every barrel, I have not seen any effect whatsoever on actual group size as long as things don’t move. A good group with it on is a good group with it off. Likewise a shitty group with it on is a shitty group with it off. I have since developed my own key-slot mount for the V2 bayonet to attach to my AI AX. Guess what... still a POI shift. Not as much as mounting directly to the barrel but I suspect gasses bouncing off the bayonet are deflecting the bullet away from the bayonet regardless of its orientation. Still, no change in group size and the shift is repeatable as long as things are secure.
heytonyman Killer!..... I've always liked the idea of a more compact, packable chrono, for field use, but put off by the attachment to the barrel. I will be purchasing one soon, and testing myself. Thanks for the reply!
@@heytonyman OK, so why is the B.O.S.S. system dead? My .300 Win mag came with it (early 90's). It vanished from the market as fast as it arrived. I never really used mine and I shot moa w/165 gr Sierra boat tails.
I did literally the exact same test with my 16" Gunner Match barrel from Faxon today. My POI with and without Silencerco Omega (with ASR mount) was a 5" shift at 100 yards. Also, in 4, 5-shot groups the barrel shot 3 shots into one nice cloverleaf hole and 2 fliers .8" to the right. It did this every ... single ... time with factory Hornady Black 123 ELD M.
Really looking forward to this series, and thanks for making this video. I'm running an 18" 6.5 barrel, same brake, same suppressor mount, with a different can. Was interesting to see the changes on target with the changes to rifle config. If I can ever get to the range and over the crud I came down with, I'll be reporting back with some info as well
Thanks for another great video! You might double check that your barrel nut is not tight against your receiver. I have seen this a couple times. The barrel nut can be torqued correctly, but bottomed out against the receiver and still not be putting enough (or any) tension on the barrel. May be worth a look. Good luck sorting it all out.
There's a healthy gap between the nut and the receiver, so I think we're good there. I went and double checked after reading this comment. I like the way you're thinking!
I had group consistency issues with my AR-15 with 20 inch Shilen match barrel with target crown. I tested over 100 different 6.5 Grendel loads using the same components you are using and was frustrated getting 0.3 inch three and four shot groups where five shot groups would open up to 0.6 to 1.25 inches. I discovered after six months of load testing my scope had a defect. I sent the scope back and they replaced the scope. My five shot groups were 0.3 inches or better with the new scope. It was a very expensive lesson in time and cost. I could have bought several scopes for the money spent in reloading components. I use 123 grain A-Max Bullets and they work great. I sent the barrel back to Shilen and had it threaded. I use an Omega suppressor on it now and it groups the same as before. I built a second AR-15 6.5 Grendel using Bear Creek Armory fluted 20 inch stainless barrel which is a less expensive barrel and lighter weight for hunting. The BCA barrel shoots as well as the Shilen match barrel with/without suppressor. I use Lapua brass, 123g A-Max, and 26 grains of AR-COMP with Federal Match AR primers in both rifles with same accuracy results with overall case length 2.265 inches. I have watched your shooting video closely. I think you have some shooter error with bipod. The group patterns indicate shooter errors and or sight errors which could be scope or mount issues. Place rifle on sand bags and eliminate movement. Replace scope and rings. Your ammo, suppressor, barrel, and rifle are ok. You are focusing too much on the gun I think the gun is ok, look elsewhere for problems and solutions. After all of the load testing I did with 6.5 Grendel, there were many different load combinations that all worked great with my rifle using Hornady 123 grain A-Max bullets. I found TAC, CFE-223, Varget, and AR-COMP powders all worked great in the Grendel. I use a RCBS Charge Master dispenser and scale which works great after reprogramming dispensing speed to speed up process and using McDonalds straw trick in the powder chute tube. I appreciate your determination to resolve issues and willingness to try new approaches. Good luck!
I have a very similar setup with a 16” gunner profile Faxon barrel and the same brake and suppressor. I have struggled to get the gun to group well (bench, bag, bipod, no wind). The gun has been apart several times to go over barrel mounting and optic mounting (lapped barrel and upper receiver and remounted Trijicon Credo 2-10x). Most of the ammo I was able to get my hand on in 2020 was Hornady Black and American gunner 123gr. Absolutely no consistency and huge POI shifts when adding the can. Finally I decided to try some Wolf 100gr I had laying around and it has finally tightened up and shot consistent .85” - 1.10” groups on different days both with and without the can. Hopefully things become available in 2021 so I can continue testing different loads, but for now she like the cheap light stuff.
I had a similar issue with a 223 barrel I swapped out to a different upper and my groups opened up significantly. The original upper used some sort of bedding material between the barrel and upper. I took everything apart and used Rockset "bed" the barrel in to the upper. After this was done my groups shrank back to sub MOA. Since then I have tried the Rocket bedding with a couple other barrels and have noticed it seems to shrink my group size by about 50 percent. I have a Faxon Gunner profile 14.5 barrel and it shoots about 1 MOA. The Rockset seems to work best on uppers that have a loose fit. I have one of the Brownells / Satern 6.5 Grendel barrels and it had to be gently tapped into to upper. It shoots MOA or better with factory ammo. I have not shot any reloads in it yet. I have been watching your videos on developing a load and will be loading some up soon. Thanks for the awesome data, keep up the good work!
Great stuff JRB. Looks like it’s barrel harmonics being altered and throwing it off. Although that is a dramatic POI shift and dramatic tightening of the groups with the suppressor. Good info for sure. I would love to see the same test with your 18” WOA barrel with say a MK 262 load of your choosing. That would let us know if it’s isolated to the Faxon barrel or just your particular suppressor in general. I have a 16” Faxon gunner barrel in the safe I haven’t put in a upper yet, but when I do I will test this out. Thanks again.
How the gas tube fits inside the upper can really mess with AR groups, it's often overlooked. When the tube gasses up it can move things quiet a bit. I also bed the extensions to the uppers if there is any play there. I remember when I started building these rifles almost all uppers had to be put in the oven the extension to upper fit was so tight, no days they are all over the place.
On Alexander Arms' website they specifically mention that the original design called for a VERY tight receiver to barrel fitment, like carefully tap the barrel in with a mallet tight, the reason being with an aluminum receiver if there was any tiny amount of play the 6.5 Grendel's recoil was sometimes enough to make the barrel "walk" around and find a new sweet spot for a while, and then it could suddenly change again under recoil, they adjusted the fitment with the receiver slightly and this made a world of difference. If I'm not mistaken the difference in material thickness was only like 4-5 thousandths, but it made it tight enough that once it was torqued in place it wasn't going anywhere.
Hey JRB! That ladder testing your refering too sounds similar with what I've been having good luck with lately and im currently working on a video series. "Robin round testing" its mentioned on the 6mmBr website also. The difference is you shoot 1 round per ladder rung at your intended cartage distance in search for that accuracy window. So far it has helped me dial in long range loads that act the same Summer and winter seasons and it also saves me on reloading supplies :-p
Barrel harmonics are more a result minimum diameter with a fluted barrel. Adding weight changes the point at which the bullet leaves the barrel during oscillation there of. Then you add in free bore boost tightening up groups. Also might be crown induced or it's just poorly stress relieved in which case you send it back. Great series!
New handgaurd kept accuracy consistent. Problem fixed for me. With my Midwest Industries Rail.......when I bought it. It first was great but after awhile my groups were just everywhere.
Resonant frequency is the principal of physics by which all musical instruments produce notes. Resonant frequency is what causes you to hear specific radio and tv signals while the antenna receives all frequencies. ALL things have a resonant frequency; including gun barrels and tuning forks. Everything that exists has a resonant frequency. You can tune a gun barrel out of resonating frequency by changing the length or diameter. Bridges and buildings have been destroyed by resonant frequencies of the structure being reached by wind vibrating them. Longer thinner barrel equals more mechanical advantage for less force required to flex and move it. Shorter or larger diameter barrel is always harder to flex or move, which normally means more concise accuracy.
The barrel doesn't look like it was properly stress relieved. I would send it back and get a new barrel. Even with the mass controlling the harmonics you're still getting flyers or two together three together split groups.
There are some videos on here titled "AR-15 Barrel Harmonics" that you should check out. He refers to an article he wrote in American Gunsmith Magazine about fit of barrel extension. Purty good stuff.
I have a 16 inch faxon pencil barrel that with a flash hider groups about 3 inches with a can it groups 1 to 1 1/2 inches. Perfect for its purpose. And has a pretty large shift. I’m glad I’m not crazy.
With unusual changes in POI with only the addition of the suppressor would make me take a look at the crown to eliminate it as a possible contributing factor.
I would like to see if the point of impact shift and group tightening would occur with the same amount of weight hanging off the barrel as what your suppressor and chronograph weighs. Say you weigh everything and stack the same amount of weight on a simple sleeve that’s 5/8 x 24. That way we could tell if the suppressor was actually helping stabilize the bullet or the weight was dampening the harmonics enough to make the groups tighter.
Ya know many people agree that adding a break or compensator will typically CHANGE your POI I definitely noticed it when adding a Strike Industries Mass Driver comp to my G17. My POI shifted about 2-3 inches high... however the comp allowed my groups to tighten significantly!!! Groups were better especially when taking rapid fire shots. The comp allowed me to control the recoil and take more accurate shots when... mag dumping ;) Uncomped rapid fire groups are like 7+ inches With the comp rapid fire groups are under 4inches
First time I used my form 1 9mm suppressor was on a keltec sub2000. I had a 5 inch shift to the right at 15 yards. Thought I had really screwed something up. Ran it on my brothers 9mm ar nearly zero point of impact shift.
Very cool video. Very good information. It seems your tightest groups were with all installed. The magneto speed brought it down ever so slightly and tightened the group. Add a camera on top and mabey it would tighten group a little more. Lol.
apparently there was a typo - the description should have read "heavily fluted barrel" - those are some serious flutes - an 18" heavy barrel that weighs less than 2 lbs is going to be compromised in some fashion - granted it is beautiful, but to the point of compromising the function in this case - counter productive to using a free float handguard. I have a couple heavy BHW barrels that have custom fluting and they don't remove near that much material - also very beautiful, but with no shifting issues as you are seeing and they are 24" barrels to boot. Finding some sweet spots the faxon will shoot accurately though the range you have to find them in will probably be much narrower - it would be interesting to see if the 5r ifling has an impact on this type of stuff as well
It seems the suppressor is perhaps utilizing an accuracy node in your barrel. The naked barrel velocity is probably off the node, try experimenting with your powder charge in order to remedy this.
A little test for you to see if its suppressor shift or just weight. Weigh the suppressor and make a baggie of lead shot the same weight. Tspe it to end of barrel and see if there is a shift. That will ultimately tell you if its weight or the baffles causing your shift
Hey Johnny, another quality video and as always a real honest look, warts and all. Couple thoughts on the test and POI shift. With the additional items on the end of the barrel, one possibility, is there enough flex (thinking micro here) in the connection point that the suppressor becomes a damper, same with the magnito? Another possibility, each thing you add to the barrel changes the natural frequency of the barrel. You may be experiencing the same effect as a load workup only this time changing the barrel characteristics instead of the load. Its possible you could work up a better load for each condition. The POI shift, while not unexpected, made me wonder how well your barrel adapter fit in the upper receiver. The last one I built I had to shim the barrel adapter with .002 stock. Both the adapter and barrel were near max spec in the worst way. The stacked tolerance dif was .004 . Thanks for all the great work. PS your video on your grendel ejection problems helped me solve my own quick.
Just about every barrel will have a POI shift with a suppressor and then adding a Magneeto Speed will only enhance it. As long as it’s repeatable you have nothing to worry about. My 26” medium Palma drops 1/2 mil low with the MS on. It does it every time.
I bought a black hole weaponry palygonal barrel 20 inches and it shoots great 250 yards and more but it don't like it at any closer it's shoots like crapp at a100 yards
Johnny, not sure if I'm exactly spot on or not. But I have heard that putting a suppressor or muzzle brake on a rifle barrel can cause changes in POI and group size. This happens because the suppressor/muzzle brake is acting like an anchor on the end of barrel and it affects the barrel harmonics. Each different attachment (muzzle brake, suppressor, chronograph) adds weight to the end of barrel and affects the vibration of the barrel. Not sure if this exactly right but I assume its pretty close and could be whats causing your problem.
I think you were getting the Cajun pronunciation. Hell, I bought a Faxon 16" Gunner barrel. Now I have to get a G3 MWI hand guard so I can see how it acts. Misbehaves? This should be fun.
your up and down get better with ton of weight. thou harmonic is adjusted with just few oz. moved a bit on end barrel not a doodoo load of weight. and your right and left are still crap. bed the barrel in. question . how easy dose barrel go in and out taking it apart from receiver? sloppy?
Did you bed your barrel? How tight the barrel extension mates up with the receiver can have some effect. You can use stainless steel shim stock and/or green loctite 620.
It’s a very common occurrence to see a shift down when adding a suppressor. The heavier the can, the more pronounced the shift. A friends Omega shifts about 3” lower than my SAS Ti cans. Ti cans typically have less shift than others since they come in around half a pound or more lighter. Honestly, the biggest thing isn’t the shift, but how reproducible the shift is. Also, any load that is worked up must be shot in the same configuration as used during establishment(muzzle devices attached) as the harmonics are changing with each modification. That said, once you have a load, it likely won’t be as erratic as your current results with a random book load.
I wouldn't say the weight is directly related to the shift. Right now I have a sample size of 1, but my Surefire 300 SPS shifts my POI about 3/4 in low of unsuppressed. This is on a 16 inch BCM 410 SS barrel with a surefire brake. I think the biggest culprit in large shifts are guy behind the trigger, barrel thread concentricity, and method/quality of attachment. The reason I list guy behind the trigger is it is basically inevitable that you will shoot better the less you are reminded there's an explosion going off a few inches from your face.
At a minimum I would true the receiver, bed the barrel, and switch to a non-milspec barrel nut. I would get a different barrel if that didn't resolve your issues. Silencers do change POI but you have more issues there than just the shift (which is too much anyway). You have alternating subgroups and consistent 1" low flyers. Just a guess but I think the suppressor is compensating for the barrel problems.
What i understand from barrels is that the lesser quality ones tend to prefer a litle pressure. so the groups tightening up with some weight = pressure at the muzzle does not sound to weird to me. My m14 doesnt group for shit either if it doesnt have a litle downward pressure either. On the whippyness, is there alot of difference in outer diameter with your old barrel?
I was watching some of your old 308 videos and you did cuss like a sailor ant one point I had to rewind it because you dropped an F bomb and I wanted to make sure I heard you right lol love all the videos keep doing what your doing
Fluting may look nice and save some weight, but I always question at what cost.... Are the flutes causing stress or making it "whippy"? I think I would just go with a regular profile barrel, even a thinner one rather than a fluted if weight is the main concern. I wonder if they test these flutes or just put them on to look cool.
I don't know if it's me or the video. Didn't even give it much thought till I got deep in the comments and someone mentioned loading up too much weight on the bipod . I looked at the video in high def. half a dozen times. That hand guard looks all jacked up like it's bent. Looks like a bend at the start of the bell in your scope and the rail is all wonky. I can't see it from here but is it possible your gas block is touching your hand guard and when you hang the weight of that can on there it doesn't ? Look at the video when you're shooting it. Looks like Robski did the run over it with the truck test. You have a rub mark on inside of the hand guard above the gas block?
haha that's either lens distortion from the camera or shadows playing tricks. The handguard is straight and I've got plenty of clearance around the gas block. Nice idea, though!
Yeah, I thought of that but it just looked so jacked up in the video. Though maybe a remote possibility the hand guard wasn't secure. I mean 350 bucks for groups like that makes you wonder......
I think it's the Midwest Industries handgaurd. I had the same issue with their free float keymod clamp on handguard. You end up getting barrel whip. But it's not the barrel nut, because you state it you torqued to 50lb +. My handgaurd started walking off the barrel nut affecting accuracy dramatically out of nowhere. Having weighted the barrel down with suppreser. It sorts itself out a bit but that clamp on handgaurd is probably your issue. No way a barrels accuracy shift !ike that. Just sayn.
Sorry to say my first barrel from Faxon was crap. They replaced it but the second barrel wasn’t much better. What I didn’t tell them was I had another company look at the barrel. The barrel was out of spec midway down the barrel and the the target crown wasn’t good either. I kept getting 2”-3” groups at 50 yards. And yes I had better shooters than me test it before I sent it back. I’m talking police instructors retired instructors etc.
Personally, I don't see the point in a long range ladder test when you have a quality chronograph at your disposal. Work up slowly in .3 grain increments. When the muzzle velocity doesn't increase with more powder, your sweet spot is in the middle of those two charge weights.
Do you have improved accuracy with the faxon as compared to your saturn barrel from brownell's? Also???? Did you get "sooty" brass with Saturn? Did Faxon improve that? Thank you. Very interesting topic. I've always been curious about this.
My Brownell's barrel shot really well, and I don't have enough rounds through this barrel to say which one is more accurate. I've been pretty happy with both, so far. ALL of my brass is extremely sooty because of shooting suppressed all the time. When you're shooting without a suppressor the brass stays much cleaner! If you want to see this Faxon barrel shoot some AMAZING groups, check out the video I did with the 135gr Berger Classic Hunter: th-cam.com/video/ugg90NzUkIk/w-d-xo.html
I wonder if anyone has taken the eld and amax tips. then applied heat to them to see which one deformed first. They probably just came up with a cheaper "cost effective" way to make them. an turned it into a "wow, look at our new innovative bullets". I always liked using the amax. guess I better stock up on them while I can.
The a- max is really only good for subsonic ammo, that's why they changed the tip to the elds. A max tip tends to melt and deform at higher velocities which throws groups everywhere
It would seem the barrel harmonic's are screwing with your accuracy when the barrel is undampened by the inclusion of anything at the muzzle during firing. If the same barrel were Un-fluted I believe there would be quite the difference between the two unsuppressed. I currently have an 18 inch Sentinel heavy barrel 1-9 that even shoots Federal American eagle 120 OTM's and Hornaday 123 A-Max well under .750 at 100-yards. it will even shoot Wolf WPA military classic 100-grain FMJ under sub-moa all day.
Had a ton of trouble on a new AR10 build with a Ballistic Advantage barrel. Swapped in a new Faxon and one hole groups. forum.accurateshooter.com/threads/trouble-with-a-newly-build-308-ar10.3940473/page-3#post-37116587
I'm just wondering how tight the barrel extension to receiver fit is. The last three Aero uppers I have had were loose on BA and Aero barrels. The nut doesn't really fix it when you torque it.
I don't like the groups with that fluted barrel by itself. I think the barrel could be too light and flexible. Great job on the testing. You were asking about adjustable brakes. How about this? harrellsprec.com/index.php/products/ar15-tuner-brake
Please research barrel harmonics. Faster fps. loads can shoot lower than slower fps. loads. All barrels move/whip. Goal is consistency in moving/whipping the same every time with the perfect combo of powder, primer, brass, and bullet. Consistency is why small groups are produced. Do ladders at 300 yards no closer. I can't tell how you edit shot strings, but you appear to shoot way to fast. Also are you executing the shot the same way every time? Consistent form every shot matters a lot. Mark your hand guard and put it in the exact same spot every time on the rest. Put the same amount of pressure on the gun every time. It should not take as much work as you are doing to come up with the right combo for decently small consistent groups. Chronograph loads then shoot groups without the magnetospeed attached to the barrel. Either leave the suppressor on or off. You appear to be putting to many variables into the mix and making it difficult to analyze the results you are getting. Sorry but you seem to be chasing your tail. The barrel may be the problem, but when I watch your videos there are glaring problems with your methodology.
I would square the receiver face, bed the barrel using Blue Loc-tite, and bed the gas block using Red LT-272. I'm shooting lighter barrel profiles from Lilja and getting no-BS consistent sub MOA 5rd+ groups with various loads from 100-1000yds. I have a 16.5" Lilja Wasp that has shot nothing by sub-MOA groups. It has an MI handguard on it similar to yours. First 4 groups out of the gate with 2 types of ammo were in the .7s and .8s (120gr PPU and 123gr SST). My Lilja 318 barrel shoots just as well, one of the few rifles I've owned where I just know my POI will be exactly where I want it cold bore. I think it has the same handguard you show in this video. [URL=s1085.photobucket.com/user/LRRPF52/media/IMG_03541_zpsm3pxrazy.jpg.html][IMG]i1085.photobucket.com/albums/j422/LRRPF52/IMG_03541_zpsm3pxrazy.jpg[/IMG][/URL]
yes you might never get barrel out receiver again with out blow torch receiver and buying new one. My 20 inch Odin works fit like crap sloppy as all get out but could bad receiver. I buy new receiver I ever need get barrel out. I used JB weld marine take up to 600 degrees but not long tested it see if works. new law going through Senate I might never take guns on road to range test again.
The armonic of your barrel are changing with the handed of weight at the muzzle.
Your test is excellent. I was wondering the exact same thing and you got it done. When I go to the range next time I want to repeat the same test but using a 6.5 Creedmoor .
So just an observation, and from my own experiences. Poi shift is no doubt from the weight of the ornaments hanging from the barrel. Every time something is added the harmonics are changing. The point of which the projectile is leaving the barrel is changing due to dampening of vibrations, changing the exit location. When you find the accuracy node you find the point of weightlessness...... free floating, or in suspension. It's that point on a rollercoaster going over the humps when you leave the seat, and for a split second you are suspended in a state of weightlessness. This barrel should have a high velocity and a low velocity node. Thinner barrels do have more of a whipping motion unless they are shorter. Shorter is stiffer. By adding the additional weight you are dampening the vibrations, dampening the whip, increasing velocity, and improving accuracy. I want to send you a doppler chrono, or a stand alone chronograph. I've watched every video you've produced, and love them all........ to be honest the magneto speed hanging off of the barrel during accuracy tests isn't giving the barrel/suppressor combo an accurate result. Knowing what your rigs will do in hunting, or combat setups is invaluable. I completely understand why you use it, and in most vids there is very little, or would be very little poi shifts with it on. Just my opinion, and again love the vids, and appreciate all you do.
Everything has an affect. Worked up an accurate load in my 300 win mag using Winchester brass... 76.5 grains of h-1000... 3/8" groups at 100 yards and running 2916..... switched to nosler brass, and with same charge weight gained 4 fps..... accuracy went to 1/2"... No big deal!.... New lot of nosler brass with same charge weight... 2950 fps. Pressure signs and poi. Shift down 5-1/2" at 200 yards... pissing me off!... in my mind I should be impacting higher than my expected poi. Due to harmonics and the location of my barrel when the pill was exiting it gave me a lower poi. Barrel hadn't made it to its g-spot!!!!..... So I bored you with that to just say what I've already said... run the tests how it's gonna be used, and then we will see what she's actually gonna do.
Freaking love the chamber chillers!... excellent product/idea and gotta get my hands on one or 4. I will take no less than 4 rifles to the range when doing load test. Keep them in rotation and always let the barrels cool down for 20-30 minutes between 5 shot groups. These killer chillers should help with saving some time!!!!!.... Ok I'm done!... You rock, and hurry up and post another vid.... Imma be at work at 6 a.m. and I want some more shooting to watch!... I've got a fever, and the only prescription is more Johnny's reloading bench!!!!... haha
Benjamin Brown My experiences haven’t echo’d yours regarding the Magnetospeed effecting group size. I have strapped that thing on every barrel from hunting pencil to straight bull, and while I do see a POI shift on nearly every barrel, I have not seen any effect whatsoever on actual group size as long as things don’t move. A good group with it on is a good group with it off. Likewise a shitty group with it on is a shitty group with it off.
I have since developed my own key-slot mount for the V2 bayonet to attach to my AI AX. Guess what... still a POI shift. Not as much as mounting directly to the barrel but I suspect gasses bouncing off the bayonet are deflecting the bullet away from the bayonet regardless of its orientation. Still, no change in group size and the shift is repeatable as long as things are secure.
heytonyman Killer!..... I've always liked the idea of a more compact, packable chrono, for field use, but put off by the attachment to the barrel. I will be purchasing one soon, and testing myself. Thanks for the reply!
@@heytonyman OK, so why is the B.O.S.S. system dead? My .300 Win mag came with it (early 90's). It vanished from the market as fast as it arrived. I never really used mine and I shot moa w/165 gr Sierra boat tails.
instaBlaster
I did literally the exact same test with my 16" Gunner Match barrel from Faxon today. My POI with and without Silencerco Omega (with ASR mount) was a 5" shift at 100 yards. Also, in 4, 5-shot groups the barrel shot 3 shots into one nice cloverleaf hole and 2 fliers .8" to the right. It did this every ... single ... time with factory Hornady Black 123 ELD M.
Really looking forward to this series, and thanks for making this video. I'm running an 18" 6.5 barrel, same brake, same suppressor mount, with a different can. Was interesting to see the changes on target with the changes to rifle config. If I can ever get to the range and over the crud I came down with, I'll be reporting back with some info as well
Thanks for another great video! You might double check that your barrel nut is not tight against your receiver. I have seen this a couple times. The barrel nut can be torqued correctly, but bottomed out against the receiver and still not be putting enough (or any) tension on the barrel. May be worth a look. Good luck sorting it all out.
There's a healthy gap between the nut and the receiver, so I think we're good there. I went and double checked after reading this comment. I like the way you're thinking!
I had group consistency issues with my AR-15 with 20 inch Shilen match barrel with target crown. I tested over 100 different 6.5 Grendel loads using the same components you are using and was frustrated getting 0.3 inch three and four shot groups where five shot groups would open up to 0.6 to 1.25 inches. I discovered after six months of load testing my scope had a defect. I sent the scope back and they replaced the scope. My five shot groups were 0.3 inches or better with the new scope. It was a very expensive lesson in time and cost. I could have bought several scopes for the money spent in reloading components. I use 123 grain A-Max Bullets and they work great. I sent the barrel back to Shilen and had it threaded. I use an Omega suppressor on it now and it groups the same as before. I built a second AR-15 6.5 Grendel using Bear Creek Armory fluted 20 inch stainless barrel which is a less expensive barrel and lighter weight for hunting. The BCA barrel shoots as well as the Shilen match barrel with/without suppressor. I use Lapua brass, 123g A-Max, and 26 grains of AR-COMP with Federal Match AR primers in both rifles with same accuracy results with overall case length 2.265 inches. I have watched your shooting video closely. I think you have some shooter error with bipod. The group patterns indicate shooter errors and or sight errors which could be scope or mount issues. Place rifle on sand bags and eliminate movement. Replace scope and rings. Your ammo, suppressor, barrel, and rifle are ok. You are focusing too much on the gun I think the gun is ok, look elsewhere for problems and solutions. After all of the load testing I did with 6.5 Grendel, there were many different load combinations that all worked great with my rifle using Hornady 123 grain A-Max bullets. I found TAC, CFE-223, Varget, and AR-COMP powders all worked great in the Grendel. I use a RCBS Charge Master dispenser and scale which works great after reprogramming dispensing speed to speed up process and using McDonalds straw trick in the powder chute tube. I appreciate your determination to resolve issues and willingness to try new approaches. Good luck!
I have a very similar setup with a 16” gunner profile Faxon barrel and the same brake and suppressor. I have struggled to get the gun to group well (bench, bag, bipod, no wind). The gun has been apart several times to go over barrel mounting and optic mounting (lapped barrel and upper receiver and remounted Trijicon Credo 2-10x). Most of the ammo I was able to get my hand on in 2020 was Hornady Black and American gunner 123gr. Absolutely no consistency and huge POI shifts when adding the can. Finally I decided to try some Wolf 100gr I had laying around and it has finally tightened up and shot consistent .85” - 1.10” groups on different days both with and without the can. Hopefully things become available in 2021 so I can continue testing different loads, but for now she like the cheap light stuff.
I had a similar issue with a 223 barrel I swapped out to a different upper and my groups opened up significantly. The original upper used some sort of bedding material between the barrel and upper. I took everything apart and used Rockset "bed" the barrel in to the upper. After this was done my groups shrank back to sub MOA.
Since then I have tried the Rocket bedding with a couple other barrels and have noticed it seems to shrink my group size by about 50 percent. I have a Faxon Gunner profile 14.5 barrel and it shoots about 1 MOA. The Rockset seems to work best on uppers that have a loose fit. I have one of the Brownells / Satern 6.5 Grendel barrels and it had to be gently tapped into to upper. It shoots MOA or better with factory ammo. I have not shot any reloads in it yet. I have been watching your videos on developing a load and will be loading some up soon. Thanks for the awesome data, keep up the good work!
Great stuff JRB. Looks like it’s barrel harmonics being altered and throwing it off. Although that is a dramatic POI shift and dramatic tightening of the groups with the suppressor. Good info for sure.
I would love to see the same test with your 18” WOA barrel with say a MK 262 load of your choosing. That would let us know if it’s isolated to the Faxon barrel or just your particular suppressor in general.
I have a 16” Faxon gunner barrel in the safe I haven’t put in a upper yet, but when I do I will test this out.
Thanks again.
How the gas tube fits inside the upper can really mess with AR groups, it's often overlooked. When the tube gasses up it can move things quiet a bit. I also bed the extensions to the uppers if there is any play there. I remember when I started building these rifles almost all uppers had to be put in the oven the extension to upper fit was so tight, no days they are all over the place.
On Alexander Arms' website they specifically mention that the original design called for a VERY tight receiver to barrel fitment, like carefully tap the barrel in with a mallet tight, the reason being with an aluminum receiver if there was any tiny amount of play the 6.5 Grendel's recoil was sometimes enough to make the barrel "walk" around and find a new sweet spot for a while, and then it could suddenly change again under recoil, they adjusted the fitment with the receiver slightly and this made a world of difference.
If I'm not mistaken the difference in material thickness was only like 4-5 thousandths, but it made it tight enough that once it was torqued in place it wasn't going anywhere.
Hey JRB! That ladder testing your refering too sounds similar with what I've been having good luck with lately and im currently working on a video series. "Robin round testing" its mentioned on the 6mmBr website also. The difference is you shoot 1 round per ladder rung at your intended cartage distance in search for that accuracy window. So far it has helped me dial in long range loads that act the same Summer and winter seasons and it also saves me on reloading supplies :-p
Need to check the lands on the barrel, had the same issue in a bcm mk12 barrel, had cracked lands from the factory
Barrel harmonics are more a result minimum diameter with a fluted barrel. Adding weight changes the point at which the bullet leaves the barrel during oscillation there of. Then you add in free bore boost tightening up groups. Also might be crown induced or it's just poorly stress relieved in which case you send it back. Great series!
Never mind the shift difference check the group shapes, they're distinct between each even look the same. Barrel harmonics, crazy stuff
New handgaurd kept accuracy consistent. Problem fixed for me.
With my Midwest Industries Rail.......when I bought it. It first was great but after awhile my groups were just everywhere.
Resonant frequency is the principal of physics by which all musical instruments produce notes. Resonant frequency is what causes you to hear specific radio and tv signals while the antenna receives all frequencies. ALL things have a resonant frequency; including gun barrels and tuning forks. Everything that exists has a resonant frequency. You can tune a gun barrel out of resonating frequency by changing the length or diameter. Bridges and buildings have been destroyed by resonant frequencies of the structure being reached by wind vibrating them. Longer thinner barrel equals more mechanical advantage for less force required to flex and move it. Shorter or larger diameter barrel is always harder to flex or move, which normally means more concise accuracy.
The barrel doesn't look like it was properly stress relieved. I would send it back and get a new barrel. Even with the mass controlling the harmonics you're still getting flyers or two together three together split groups.
There are some videos on here titled "AR-15 Barrel Harmonics" that you should check out. He refers to an article he wrote in American Gunsmith Magazine about fit of barrel extension. Purty good stuff.
That would point to harmonic changes in the barrel.
I have a 16 inch faxon pencil barrel that with a flash hider groups about 3 inches with a can it groups 1 to 1 1/2 inches. Perfect for its purpose. And has a pretty large shift. I’m glad I’m not crazy.
With unusual changes in POI with only the addition of the suppressor would make me take a look at the crown to eliminate it as a possible contributing factor.
I would like to see if the point of impact shift and group tightening would occur with the same amount of weight hanging off the barrel as what your suppressor and chronograph weighs. Say you weigh everything and stack the same amount of weight on a simple sleeve that’s 5/8 x 24. That way we could tell if the suppressor was actually helping stabilize the bullet or the weight was dampening the harmonics enough to make the groups tighter.
Ya know many people agree that adding a break or compensator will typically CHANGE your POI
I definitely noticed it when adding a Strike Industries Mass Driver comp to my G17.
My POI shifted about 2-3 inches high... however the comp allowed my groups to tighten significantly!!!
Groups were better especially when taking rapid fire shots. The comp allowed me to control the recoil and take more accurate shots when... mag dumping ;)
Uncomped rapid fire groups are like 7+ inches
With the comp rapid fire groups are under 4inches
Tip color change between a-max and eld m is to resist super sonic velocities and not deform in flight
First time I used my form 1 9mm suppressor was on a keltec sub2000. I had a 5 inch shift to the right at 15 yards. Thought I had really screwed something up. Ran it on my brothers 9mm ar nearly zero point of impact shift.
Very cool video. Very good information. It seems your tightest groups were with all installed. The magneto speed brought it down ever so slightly and tightened the group. Add a camera on top and mabey it would tighten group a little more. Lol.
Suppressor tightens things up because it's a big weight hanging on the end of the whippy barrel, making it less whippy.
I would recommend using the seating depth method that Berger Bullets uses. Message me if you need the article.
apparently there was a typo - the description should have read "heavily fluted barrel" - those are some serious flutes - an 18" heavy barrel that weighs less than 2 lbs is going to be compromised in some fashion - granted it is beautiful, but to the point of compromising the function in this case - counter productive to using a free float handguard. I have a couple heavy BHW barrels that have custom fluting and they don't remove near that much material - also very beautiful, but with no shifting issues as you are seeing and they are 24" barrels to boot. Finding some sweet spots the faxon will shoot accurately though the range you have to find them in will probably be much narrower - it would be interesting to see if the 5r ifling has an impact on this type of stuff as well
robin hurley I will take function over looks any day of the week. Lol
How non-consumerist of you - LOL
I'm curious about the crono on the unsurpressed shots of all these test shown beside these groups. Maybe I missed it. Think it could help a lot
Try measuring your datum line between the strings of fire on the fired brass. Just an idea.
Does the anchor break work well on the end of the can ......
It seems the suppressor is perhaps utilizing an accuracy node in your barrel. The naked barrel velocity is probably off the node, try experimenting with your powder charge in order to remedy this.
A little test for you to see if its suppressor shift or just weight. Weigh the suppressor and make a baggie of lead shot the same weight. Tspe it to end of barrel and see if there is a shift. That will ultimately tell you if its weight or the baffles causing your shift
Your also slowing your velocity down with the silencer. Which will bring your poi down.
The barrel looks as though it is pivoting on the bipod and pushing the stock down, maybe try a bag under the stock and see if it has any effect.
What is your opinion on the AR15 barrel bedding, there are multiple articles that state a radical improvement in groups...
Does the barrel become less whippy when all the stuff is on the muzzle? Does it have fewer point of impact changes with the can and chrono?
You can always send the barrel to Teludyne and put their straight jacket on it. Eliminate POI and cold bore shift altogether. It's awesome on my 308!
Hey Johnny, another quality video and as always a real honest look, warts and all. Couple thoughts on the test and POI shift.
With the additional items on the end of the barrel, one possibility, is there enough flex (thinking micro here) in the connection point that the suppressor becomes a damper, same with the magnito?
Another possibility, each thing you add to the barrel changes the natural frequency of the barrel. You may be experiencing the same effect as a load workup only this time changing the barrel characteristics instead of the load. Its possible you could work up a better load for each condition.
The POI shift, while not unexpected, made me wonder how well your barrel adapter fit in the upper receiver. The last one I built I had to shim the barrel adapter with .002 stock. Both the adapter and barrel were near max spec in the worst way. The stacked tolerance dif was .004 . Thanks for all the great work. PS your video on your grendel ejection problems helped me solve my own quick.
Just about every barrel will have a POI shift with a suppressor and then adding a Magneeto Speed will only enhance it.
As long as it’s repeatable you have nothing to worry about.
My 26” medium Palma drops 1/2 mil low with the MS on. It does it every time.
You might try to go to a non free float setup
I bought a black hole weaponry palygonal barrel 20 inches and it shoots great 250 yards and more but it don't like it at any closer it's shoots like crapp at a100 yards
Johnny, not sure if I'm exactly spot on or not. But I have heard that putting a suppressor or muzzle brake on a rifle barrel can cause changes in POI and group size. This happens because the suppressor/muzzle brake is acting like an anchor on the end of barrel and it affects the barrel harmonics. Each different attachment (muzzle brake, suppressor, chronograph) adds weight to the end of barrel and affects the vibration of the barrel. Not sure if this exactly right but I assume its pretty close and could be whats causing your problem.
BZA 2032 It does.
Anyway a 6.5 will do 2600 FPS with 123 grain out of a 18 or 20 inch barrel? If not what would be the highest mv I could get
I think you were getting the Cajun pronunciation.
Hell, I bought a Faxon 16" Gunner barrel. Now I have to get a G3 MWI hand guard so I can see how it acts. Misbehaves? This should be fun.
Great analysis!
How about trying to bed the barrel in the receiver? If that doesn't help, maybe get one of those ugly limbsaver X ring harmonic stabilizers
your up and down get better with ton of weight. thou harmonic is adjusted with just few oz. moved a bit on end barrel not a doodoo load of weight. and your right and left are still crap. bed the barrel in. question . how easy dose barrel go in and out taking it apart from receiver? sloppy?
Did you bed your barrel? How tight the barrel extension mates up with the receiver can have some effect. You can use stainless steel shim stock and/or green loctite 620.
I know this is an old video but if you do some more testing, my experience with the eldm is they like a bunch of jump like 30 thousandths worth
It’s a very common occurrence to see a shift down when adding a suppressor. The heavier the can, the more pronounced the shift. A friends Omega shifts about 3” lower than my SAS Ti cans. Ti cans typically have less shift than others since they come in around half a pound or more lighter. Honestly, the biggest thing isn’t the shift, but how reproducible the shift is.
Also, any load that is worked up must be shot in the same configuration as used during establishment(muzzle devices attached) as the harmonics are changing with each modification. That said, once you have a load, it likely won’t be as erratic as your current results with a random book load.
I wouldn't say the weight is directly related to the shift. Right now I have a sample size of 1, but my Surefire 300 SPS shifts my POI about 3/4 in low of unsuppressed. This is on a 16 inch BCM 410 SS barrel with a surefire brake. I think the biggest culprit in large shifts are guy behind the trigger, barrel thread concentricity, and method/quality of attachment. The reason I list guy behind the trigger is it is basically inevitable that you will shoot better the less you are reminded there's an explosion going off a few inches from your face.
At a minimum I would true the receiver, bed the barrel, and switch to a non-milspec barrel nut. I would get a different barrel if that didn't resolve your issues. Silencers do change POI but you have more issues there than just the shift (which is too much anyway). You have alternating subgroups and consistent 1" low flyers. Just a guess but I think the suppressor is compensating for the barrel problems.
What i understand from barrels is that the lesser quality ones tend to prefer a litle pressure. so the groups tightening up with some weight = pressure at the muzzle does not sound to weird to me.
My m14 doesnt group for shit either if it doesnt have a litle downward pressure either.
On the whippyness, is there alot of difference in outer diameter with your old barrel?
Great Info JRB! just a thought though, If they were named Bob & Bob Faxon, would they be called Bobs' Faxon? Great job, keep em coming!
If there isn't an accuracy node without some sort of dampening, then that would mean it is time to Faxoff...bahaha
I was watching some of your old 308 videos and you did cuss like a sailor ant one point I had to rewind it because you dropped an F bomb and I wanted to make sure I heard you right lol love all the videos keep doing what your doing
Maybe you should try lapping the upper receiver to make sure it is square then maybe you should bed the barrel
Fluting may look nice and save some weight, but I always question at what cost.... Are the flutes causing stress or making it "whippy"? I think I would just go with a regular profile barrel, even a thinner one rather than a fluted if weight is the main concern. I wonder if they test these flutes or just put them on to look cool.
“Thomas Train Stunts” in the recommend videos, obviously what one watches after a reloading vid 😂
Can hunt with the chronograph?
I don't know if it's me or the video. Didn't even give it much thought till I got deep in the comments and someone
mentioned loading up too much weight on the bipod . I looked at the video in high def. half a dozen times. That hand guard
looks all jacked up like it's bent. Looks like a bend at the start of the bell in your scope and the rail is all wonky. I can't see it from here but is it possible your gas block is touching your hand guard and when you hang the weight of that can on there it doesn't ?
Look at the video when you're shooting it. Looks like Robski did the run over it with the truck test. You have a rub mark on inside of the hand guard above the gas block?
haha that's either lens distortion from the camera or shadows playing tricks. The handguard is straight and I've got plenty of clearance around the gas block. Nice idea, though!
Yeah, I thought of that but it just looked so jacked up in the video. Though maybe a remote possibility the hand guard wasn't secure. I mean 350 bucks for groups like that makes you wonder......
my faxon pencil barrel 556 isnt accurate worth beans compared to my 223 wylde ebaco barrel i know that much is true from experience
Do a video on how you make your targets!!! They`re awesome @johnnysreloadingbench
bikeboy0012 Agree completely! @johnnysreloadingbench please do a quick target video. Also a range tour.
Looks like a piece of poster paper with sharpie lines...
Looks like kindergarten ruled paper, with crosshair stickers and a sharpie...
I think it's the Midwest Industries handgaurd. I had the same issue with their free float keymod clamp on handguard. You end up getting barrel whip. But it's not the barrel nut, because you state it you torqued to 50lb +. My handgaurd started walking off the barrel nut affecting accuracy dramatically out of nowhere. Having weighted the barrel down with suppreser. It sorts itself out a bit but that clamp on handgaurd is probably your issue. No way a barrels accuracy shift !ike that. Just sayn.
Have you tried a Labradar instead of your Current chronograph
Have you ever tried a barrel dampener?
Could it be fps related? Just wondering if the suppressor robs fps or not
Nickolaus Hampe Suppressors add a few fps
you need a tuner.
Sorry to say my first barrel from Faxon was crap. They replaced it but the second barrel wasn’t much better. What I didn’t tell them was I had another company look at the barrel. The barrel was out of spec midway down the barrel and the the target crown wasn’t good either. I kept getting 2”-3” groups at 50 yards. And yes I had better shooters than me test it before I sent it back. I’m talking police instructors retired instructors etc.
Personally, I don't see the point in a long range ladder test when you have a quality chronograph at your disposal. Work up slowly in .3 grain increments. When the muzzle velocity doesn't increase with more powder, your sweet spot is in the middle of those two charge weights.
Do you have improved accuracy with the faxon as compared to your saturn barrel from brownell's? Also???? Did you get "sooty" brass with Saturn? Did Faxon improve that? Thank you. Very interesting topic. I've always been curious about this.
My Brownell's barrel shot really well, and I don't have enough rounds through this barrel to say which one is more accurate. I've been pretty happy with both, so far. ALL of my brass is extremely sooty because of shooting suppressed all the time. When you're shooting without a suppressor the brass stays much cleaner!
If you want to see this Faxon barrel shoot some AMAZING groups, check out the video I did with the 135gr Berger Classic Hunter: th-cam.com/video/ugg90NzUkIk/w-d-xo.html
I wonder if anyone has taken the eld and amax tips. then applied heat to them to see which one deformed first. They probably just came up with a cheaper "cost effective" way to make them. an turned it into a "wow, look at our new innovative bullets". I always liked using the amax. guess I better stock up on them while I can.
The a- max is really only good for subsonic ammo, that's why they changed the tip to the elds. A max tip tends to melt and deform at higher velocities which throws groups everywhere
It would seem the barrel harmonic's are screwing with your accuracy when the barrel is undampened by the inclusion of anything at the muzzle during firing. If the same barrel were Un-fluted I believe there would be quite the difference between the two unsuppressed. I currently have an 18 inch Sentinel heavy barrel 1-9 that even shoots Federal American eagle 120 OTM's and Hornaday 123 A-Max well under .750 at 100-yards. it will even shoot Wolf WPA military classic 100-grain FMJ under sub-moa all day.
Had a ton of trouble on a new AR10 build with a Ballistic Advantage barrel. Swapped in a new Faxon and one hole groups. forum.accurateshooter.com/threads/trouble-with-a-newly-build-308-ar10.3940473/page-3#post-37116587
2 piece lock collar
have you ever heard of harmonics ???? It changes with all the crap added or removed from a barrel....
That's the entire point of this video, brother.
Harmonics!
Do you see a POI shift with a bore sight when you add the suppressor?
I don't have a bore sight, unfortunately.
I'm just wondering how tight the barrel extension to receiver fit is. The last three Aero uppers I have had were loose on BA and Aero barrels. The nut doesn't really fix it when you torque it.
what is the name of the hunting channel please?
JRB Outdoors th-cam.com/channels/XFoIYwcyKXE99E7XQ_LslQ.html
2:47 over twerking can lead to MANY issues ;)
So you are surprised that putting a can and a chrono on the end of the barrel causes a downward shift of POI? Lame.
Fax on Fax off
I don't like the groups with that fluted barrel by itself. I think the barrel could be too light and flexible. Great job on the testing.
You were asking about adjustable brakes. How about this?
harrellsprec.com/index.php/products/ar15-tuner-brake
OK Johnny, say: "TOMATO"
That would be me;-)
Please research barrel harmonics. Faster fps. loads can shoot lower than slower fps. loads. All barrels move/whip. Goal is consistency in moving/whipping the same every time with the perfect combo of powder, primer, brass, and bullet. Consistency is why small groups are produced. Do ladders at 300 yards no closer. I can't tell how you edit shot strings, but you appear to shoot way to fast. Also are you executing the shot the same way every time? Consistent form every shot matters a lot. Mark your hand guard and put it in the exact same spot every time on the rest. Put the same amount of pressure on the gun every time. It should not take as much work as you are doing to come up with the right combo for decently small consistent groups. Chronograph loads then shoot groups without the magnetospeed attached to the barrel. Either leave the suppressor on or off. You appear to be putting to many variables into the mix and making it difficult to analyze the results you are getting. Sorry but you seem to be chasing your tail. The barrel may be the problem, but when I watch your videos there are glaring problems with your methodology.
I would square the receiver face, bed the barrel using Blue Loc-tite, and bed the gas block using Red LT-272. I'm shooting lighter barrel profiles from Lilja and getting no-BS consistent sub MOA 5rd+ groups with various loads from 100-1000yds. I have a 16.5" Lilja Wasp that has shot nothing by sub-MOA groups. It has an MI handguard on it similar to yours. First 4 groups out of the gate with 2 types of ammo were in the .7s and .8s (120gr PPU and 123gr SST). My Lilja 318 barrel shoots just as well, one of the few rifles I've owned where I just know my POI will be exactly where I want it cold bore. I think it has the same handguard you show in this video.
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yes you might never get barrel out receiver again with out blow torch receiver and buying new one. My 20 inch Odin works fit like crap sloppy as all get out but could bad receiver. I buy new receiver I ever need get barrel out. I used JB weld marine take up to 600 degrees but not long tested it see if works. new law going through Senate I might never take guns on road to range test again.
some barrel weights for comparison
imgur.com/a/9vUxH
Wax on, wax off. Tomato tamato. Wash warsh. It's all the same.
Tips melted in air
20” Shilen bull barrel! Non Threaded crowned muzzle. See my avatar, 4 shots at 100 yards using factory Hornady 123 gr. Amax.
Not talkin out of your butt at all. i see the same as you. It’s more than likely the barrel.
I can't believe you don't know the difference. A-Max starts coming apart in flight. That's why the ELD was created.
Faxon faxoff......
First again
You also have a little flex problem, how can you talk so much with so little knowledge?