Bare Shaft Tuning Your New Bow/ The Importance Of Perfect Arrow Flight!
ฝัง
- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 17 ต.ค. 2024
- Join us at Instinctive Addiction Archery as we demonstrate setting up a new custom bow and selecting the right arrow with a bare shaft tune for perfect flight! Visit us at www.instinctiveaddictionsrcheryllc.com and on Facebook at Instinctive Addiction Archery please like and subscribe to our channel for informative traditional archery videos!
Jeff first and foremost I want to thank you for the praises that you give our lord.
Up until about 8 years ago I was a compound shooter and then I switched over to trad and have never looked back. I am a recent subscriber to your channel and have to say thank you for all the knowledge sharing you do. You have made a bare shaft tuning believer out of me.
Thank you sir I really appreciate that! 🙏
Yes sir your welcome
The more work the feathers have to do the more it slows the arrow down and takes energy out ... great details !
Outstanding video!!
BEST CUSTOMER SERVICE ON THE PLANET!!
Glad to hear your input on arrow spine. I've got two old recurves that defy conventional wisdom when it comes to spine. My #53@28"(I draw just over 26") shoots 350 carbons with a total arrow weight of about 550 grains better than any arrow I've bought or built, cedar, aluminum, or carbon. The other draws #55@28, and shoots 2016 aluminums, about the same total weight better than anything else. I guess the moral to the story is just experiment until something works and don't worry about conventional wisdom.
This was a great video and I have learned a lot from watching these type of videos from you. I'm a short guy (66") and I pull ~25" - and recently started experimenting with bare shaft tuning. I was able to get a 600' spine arrow to bare shaft tune but it was a little short for my taste (26"), 45gr insert + 145gr tip. When I have the extra funds I plan to get some 500 spine arrows, and I anticipate tuning them around 28" and 200gr up front (total). Oh, and I'm pulling about 45lbs out of a Hoyt Satori. As you mentioned in this video, apparently I use the tip of the arrow to gap shoot (or at least my brain does) because not having that point tip in my site picture has negatively affected my shooting.
have you seen the Jake Kaminski video on barebow aiming? You'd probably find it pretty useful.
I’m shooting a #48 @48lb 28”. My draw length is 28.75. Where should I start? I’ve watched several of you videos.
Currently shooting Easton classic 500 spine at the full length. They shot ok but I feel like that’s too long. I would describe my shot style as split vision.
I wish I could find a dartboard target like that, that thing is cool.
I bought a dozen 500s and they’re just barely weak with the tips and length I use. They still shoot fine with field points but not great with broad heads. I’ll just use em for judos and fluflus I recon.
Jeff, I just found your videos about a month ago and am amazed at your ability to explain all the steps you go through to make a perfect shot. I have been struggling with the Hill style bow for years. Do you have any experience with them? I have watched many of your videos but haven't found one with the Hill style bow. Is there one that I can look for?
@@randyhicks6949 I’ve got one with the sanlida royal x8 longbow, I actually shoot them really good they’re natural for my style lol, my friend Robert Carter has a ton of good videos on them as well as Semco Trad Bow👍🏻
@@instinctiveaddictionarcher8998 I found Robert Carter after you mentioned him in one of your videos. I appreciate that you both give God the glory for all your efforts. Keep up the good work. I enjoy your's and Robert's videos.
What are your thoughts on installing a wrap and/or tape on the nock end prior to bare shafting to simulate feathers and ultimate build weight front to back?
Do you find that most bows tune best with at least 2" beyond the shelf assuming proper spine selection? Do you try and bare shaft from a variety of distances or your experience just allows you to get it dialed fairly close initially. I struggle with bare shaft tuning with all my bows. probably a consistent form thing, all your tips and videos are very helpful.
Yes I usually do go ahead and wrap the arrow because it will slightly stiffen it👍🏻
Interesting that you don't try to compensate the weight of the feathers by putting electrical tape in the rear. When I don't do that I usually end up with a slightly stiff fletched arrow.
Where do you order a bow ? Like the website?
Just getting into archery and wanted to know why so much weight up front? I’ve got a 29” draw and found that 30” arrows w/ a 150 grain tip shoots near perfect but you are always putting the bigger inserts to add weight. Is that an inertia thing for penetration? Would it be better to do a stiffer arrow with the heavier weight say drop to a 350 then add the inserts? Arrow tuning is a lot to keep in your head!!
Yes sir the Front Of Center weight just helps with penetration and broadhead flight versus a heavier shaft and lighter point weight. The Ashby reports are a very good reference for the theory in general and they’ve got a TH-cam video out on it I’m pretty sure 👍🏻
Thanks!!
I would like to see the products you offer, but I am unable to get to either your website or facebook page.
I think they quitted the business, because health issues from carbon dust. He made video about it.
Cant find that video anymore, looks like its deleted. 🙄
@@JJ79_ damn, that's a bummer. Thanks for the info.
I always bare shaft new arrows to try and get the best possible flight, but I'm very confused by the results with a fresh batch of arrows. I started trying to tune them to my favorite bow (1968 or 69 Indian Archery Deerslayer one piece recurve) It's a 45# lefty. I am not a hunter I just love flinging arrows at targets, especially 3D. I wanted a lighter arrow to get less drop at 30+ yards so I went with 600 spine 6.2mm ID shafts standard inserts and 75 grain points. I kept trimming one down and it still showed weak at 29.5" So I thought I would try my second favorite bow which is a 19" wooden ILF riser with XL 45# longbow limbs. They initially showed a bit stiff so I turned the limb bolt in a half turn and that was close. A quarter turn more and it went nice and straight. I fletched a few and they flew like crap. These were feathers I cut and I'm thinking my design is not so good. Bare shafted it again and now it is showing weak without any changes! Put some 100 grain points in a couple of bare shafts and they flew nice and straight. I don't get it. What could have changed? The limbs are Akusta Spurt Traditional bamboo, glass. These are not in a league with your stuff but can they change that much from day to day? I suppose I'll need to keep a bare shaft in my quiver and add or subtract power from day to day!
Nice video and good customer service especially if was a beginner buying their first bow.
A bit left field but I’m governed by 31 inch shafts I draw right around 30 inches. One my longbows is 80# draw at my draw length. You have any idea what spine and point weight you’d use for that?
Currently shoot .250 spine at 31 inch with 50 grain insert and 250 grain points and spit 730 grains at 208 feet per second. Don’t get as great arrow flight as some my other bows though any tips?
Man that’s exactly what I would think on that setup and it’s possibly still weak 🤔
@@instinctiveaddictionarcher8998 you are correct it is slightly weak. Thinking of putting outsert on to gain an inch and cut down actual shaft an inch so it’s same length but stiffer.. never bare shaft tuned but should probably start
Sometimes I re-watch this episode not because I want to hear what you say about bare shaft tuning anymore(even though it was quite educational) but just because I love that bow! Where can I get a bow like that?
They’re tough to find for sure but I’ve got a couple and if you’ll pm me on Facebook I’ll shoot you some information 👍🏻
@@instinctiveaddictionarcher8998 Not in the budget for now but maybe someday brother. Thank you though!
Do you have a website that people can order your custom bows on
Does it matter if your target is on the ground or does the target need to be elevated?
Elevated is best, so you don’t get a false nock high reading 👍🏻
What was the starting point on the nock height?
If you got it tuned at 5/8 you must have started at 3/4"
What's your website to order from?
What would you consider as the perfect total arrow weight for consistent penetration on a big deer or hog and not have cannonball trajectory?
Well for me it’s around 550gr that seems to be the happy medium, but even a 450gr arrow with a sharp two blade will usually blow right through one on a well placed shot it’s just the what if as in bone that stops a light arrow really quick.
Im having a hard time bare shaft tuning some Beman 500sp 29inches long. i have 175 grain head on them,. I have sage 62" at 50 pounds. They come out of the bow and turn 90 degrees nock right I figure to stiff. But i have never had that happen before
Hmm, Beaman Arrows are one of the few I haven’t tested much but I’d shoot it at 25 yards and you’ll be able to see how it’s flying down range for sure.
Getting a 50# recurve tomorrow. I draw roughly 30”, determined I would most likely need a 400 spine arrow, but what weight would you recommend in front of the arrow? Shooting a full length 31” arrow. I’m guessing I’ll be pulling about 53-54# with the 30” DL
Not much more than 200gr on a 400 you might have to shoot a 340 in full length with any more than that unless the bow is center shot or close to it which will allow for less paradox and probably be fine with a 400 and the axis shafts tend to run a little stiff as with most smaller diameter thick walled arrows verses standard 5/16” arrows 👍🏻
Try 340 spine with 125 grain points.
@@instinctiveaddictionarcher8998 perfect, thanks for the response! I love your videos brother, keep doing what you’re doing!
What is the minimum distance I can confortably bare shaft tune 40# longbow?
Honestly you need to be at least 15 yards away to really see what the shaft is doing in flight, the further away the more it’s magnified, I like anywhere from 15-20
Always great info! I can not get carbon (Gold Tip) shafts to correct on my 60” 45#@28” (pulling 28”) longbow. No matter what I try I am always nock high. I have tried 400 and 500 spine, full length down to as short as I can cut them. And with anywhere between 140g up front up to 400g up front. I have adjusted the nock up and down all the way to .75 in both directions and have increased my brace height all the way out to 7.675. Any thoughts? Is it possible my longbow just doesn’t like carbon shafts? It does shoot wood shaft just fine but I hate breaking woods and would love to switch to carbon.
Wow that’s really strange, the only time I’ve seen a bow not level out between 1/2” and 5/8” is if it has a tiller issue, measure from the loops mid string groove up the limbs 16” make a pencil mark and then measure from that mark to the string on both limbs and be precise, see if there’s any difference and if so exactly how much, for split finger it should be 1/8” positive ( top limb having more) dead even tiller for three under, also you must run a double nock on the string to keep the arrows from ramping off the shelf 👍🏻
@@instinctiveaddictionarcher8998 UPDATE: The wood shaft arrow (only had one) broke, so I had to do some more tinkering. Shot 5 other bows from buddies and different arrow combos on all of them and long story short, it is me. I am doing something weird with my form/release that is causing the arrow to always hit nock high. The wood arrow was fletched with 5” feathers, so it was probably correcting itself.
Knowing that my form and/or release sucks, any pointers? I have corrected it a little by drawing and anchoring further back, but still can not find the “fixed” spot.
@@joependergrass1519 hmm, it’s usually the glove or tab causing it especially if the ring finger has too much pressure on the string just try one shot without either and see if it gets better then at least you’ll know for sure.
how can I order a custom bow from you?
Thanks David but we’re not building anymore, we stopped taking orders back in August of last year for the custom bows and decided to go a different direction for health reasons alone, I’m heavily involved in the sport and doing instructional videos as well as traveling to events and helping people with their traditional journey 👍🏻
I dont know how you can consistently draw to 26" for reliable bareshaft tune when its not your draw length...
The way I do it (tuning to someone else's SHORTER draw length) is to use an old fashioned clicker (the type that attaches to the limb and string).
Just put inch markings on an old arrow and set the clicker so it goes off at 26" (in this case) and you're done - a reliable way to let go at someone else's draw length.
Someone buys a custom bow and someone needs to do bare shaft arrow for him :-) This is tipicly american. All to be prepared. Just like you buy in the supermarket. This cuts away all what traditional archery needs to be. :-(
If you’re referring to when we used to do this for customers it’s because they usually asked for the service especially when they ordered a bow and custom arrows just wanting to get it and start shooting, lots of guys don’t want to waste money on the wrong arrows so they trusted us to get them the best setup possible but I do agree that part of the journey is starting from scratch and figuring it all out and to me that’s what I enjoy, just not everyone wants to so they pay for a setup hunt ready package.