you want a slack cable safety where if the cable ever goes under slack, 2 spring loaded bars swing out and get stuck in slots in the channeling. Its how the first elevators did it
Suggestion…. add a second cable to the winch as a safety backup. I’ve had a similar mechanism using a steel cable which after many cycles ended up fraying and breaking. Your travel isn’t that great and the winch drum should easily accommodate a second cable. The second cable will serve to hold the platform in the event either one of the cables break.
great looking project. would you also include me with a copy of the schematic since I am getting on in years i would like to get some of my stuff out of the attic. thank you
The wiring etc. in a nutshell; JZSlenker 3 years ago I don't have a schematic on paper. Basically your need two DPDT relays to replace the rocker switch that comes on the winch. One relay determines the direction, the other relay is "ON" Apply power to the on relay to cause the winch to move, apply to both (via a diode) and it will move in the opposite direction. To get the circuit to latch you setup two other relays that latch (via one of the two contacts). This latch is cut off by the limit switches that are setup for NC operation. 2 Bill Gurley Bill Gurley 3 years ago Thanks for your reply! That is helpful. I have a couple of other questions. 1. I assume that you're using a transformer to supply either 12vac or 24vac to activate the relays. 2. I also assume that your up/down switches are small 2-pole, momentary on-on switches to activate the relays; and it appears that you're using approximately 22 gauge wire for all of the low-voltage stuff. 3. Finally, the hoist we are using is also a 440 lb unit, and it looks very similar to yours. It has a big startup capacitor mounted inside the handheld control. Did yours have a startup capacitor? If so, is it installed in your nice wall-mounted control box? Or maybe it's just not necessary? Thanks again! 1 JZSlenker JZSlenker 3 years ago Yes, a 12V transformer powers the low voltage relays. Wiring is 18 gauge. Yes up / down switches are SPDT center off momentary. This particular HF hoist has the starting capacitor in the box on the hoist itself. You definitely will need to keep the capacitor. You could just put it in your control box enclosure. 2 JZSlenker 4 years ago The limit switches are from Grainger. They are Dayton brand SPDT. The Grainger part # is 12T962 they cost about $25 each Quick question? Why didn't you just use the wired remote that comes with this winch? JZSlenker JZSlenker 4 years ago That would have worked but I didn't want the operation to be dependent on the operator stopping it manually at either end. If you go too far on the down direction the steel cable would have un-spooled resulting in a cable spool that would wear the cable out prematurely.
I really hope you put up a simple fence / railing / barrier because I can see someone falling off that upper level simply by stepping backwards while being distracted or not paying attention etc. You'll have one big lawsuit on your hands then. Anyway, thanks for sharing. 😉👌🏻
I have built a home elevator for my disabled granddaughter. Have it working but can’t figure out a down limit switch. Would you have a wiring plan that could help me do that. I am using a standard AC winch. Tom sudyk
This is a super application for a diy dumbwaiter. You wouldn't happen to be willing to part with a schematic / parts list? I've been trying to figure one out for the garage to move groceries to the living space. My wife would love it.
The "tracks" are barn door sliding door channel from Tractor Supply, the platform is constructed of welded steel brackets that are bolted to the barn door hangars. The limit switches are cheap Chinese ones from Grainger, part #12T962. There are three limit switches, one at the top and one at the bottom to stop the movement when it reaches the up or down position. The third is an emergency stop limit that stops the hoist if a relay hangs or other failure occurs in the control relays. It is wired directly inline with the motor so if the lift blows through the upper limit switch is will stop the motor before the whole thing self destructs. I'll try to come up with a schematic for you.
Necessity is the mother of invention. Great application. Possible you have a schematic? + Your relays are clearly marked. It's clear what the first four relays are. I'm not sure what the "ON" and the "DIR" are. Mind clarifying? And, again, a schematic would be really helpful. I'd be so grateful. Don Martin
Better check your state regs. I know Massachusetts it would definitely be a no-go, as dumb waiters are considered elevator and need a licensed mechanic to do the instation and registration.
I’m trying to do this exact same thing but can’t figure out how or what’s needed to make it work. Is there any way I can get a schematic so I can get this done for my mother? I’d really appreciate the help if you’re willing
Needs a direction somewhere, if its not a relay in the box it will be extra buttons on the wall. The ON was required due to the type of motor he used, so if you can find a motor that works without the ON relay then bonus.
hi there, I like incorporating the limiting switch in your design. I am building a lift as well, could you please share the schematic and parts (Relays, switches, etc) required to build this mechanism? thanks
Yes I know! used used one and designed a retractable staircase!!! I'm trying to post it but now that Google took over youtube I can't seem to post it!! I have the same unit as you and well I like the idea of limiting switch!! Maybe we can trade some ideas through email!!! I really like this design!!! But would like wiring diagrams/ where to get the relays etc.
It would be really cool if you could share a simple diagram for the relays! I'm considering putting a dumbwaiter in my house and would love to build it myself. I'm good on the mechanical end of things, but the logic side not so much. If you could help me skip past the trial and error part it would be greatly appreciated!
It looks like in the top of his box there are wires using 3 cores to the control switches, limit up and down look to be the ones with only 2 cores but the emergency limit seems to be the black wire that intercepts the power below the ON relay. The wall switches seem to be common/up/down so im thinking he has used momentary up/down toggle with center return to activate the UP/DN relays which latch until kicked out by the limit relays. But i don't see anything stopping the motor from running when a switched is used in the wrong direction. So if its already up and you flick the switch up instead of down then it will continue to raise past the switch for as long as the signal is sent, provided the limit is still triggered it will stop as soon as you let go, but if its not triggered because the pin it rests on has already gone past it wont until it drops the power with the emergency switch. It also looks like the big black cable is not only the motor out but also power in. Which is why there needs to be an ON relay. So the emergency limit is the only protection from people doing the wrong thing which will require someone to manually repair it and if that's not done carefully then it could destroy your limit switches. So i think it should have another relay or two so once the unit is up, it locks out the up control signal and if the unit is down it locks out the down signal. Then it should be user friendly so when you flick the wrong direction it just sits there.
Did you ever create a schematic and parts list (better yet where to also purchase them) for the Dumb Waiter controller circuit?). I will gladly pay you for it. Thanks
Inspired by your video, I just finished building a similar dumb waiter to bring firewood from the basement to a ground floor fireplace. I used Unistrut rails and a 5 to 1 pulley system as I wanted to have the hoist in an accessible location. The travel distance is short so I could do without limit switches but I welcome the challenge to reproduce your control system. Can you please provide me with the model number of the Omron relays. Thanks in advance.
I want to build this model. can you or someone build and supply the control box and wiring diagram? what would be cost including shipping too Hampton Va. thanks for any help you can provide.. Gibby Gibson
That would have worked but I didn't want the operation to be dependent on the operator stopping it manually at either end. If you go too far on the down direction the steel cable would have un-spooled resulting in a cable spool that would wear the cable out prematurely.
I hope you are still following this post. I was wondering if you have a wiring diagram. that was a really good solution for remote up down control using relays. if so do you have a way i can contact you so you can email it to me. thanks, great solution...
JZ, did you ever do a wiring diagram on this? I would love to see it. I'm helping a friend with something like this, although he wants about three "stations", which would make it more complicated. I'm also wondering how you handled the "latching" of the relays so that they don't relax the relays when you release the momentary up/down switch. I'm assuming this is done with the relays in the gray box? Then they release the latching when the limit switch is activated? Thanks.
I don't have a schematic on paper. Basically your need two DPDT relays to replace the rocker switch that comes on the winch. One relay determines the direction, the other relay is "ON" Apply power to the on relay to cause the winch to move, apply to both (via a diode) and it will move in the opposite direction. To get the circuit to latch you setup two other relays that latch (via one of the two contacts). This latch is cut off by the limit switches that are setup for NC operation.
Thanks for your reply! That is helpful. I have a couple of other questions. 1. I assume that you're using a transformer to supply either 12vac or 24vac to activate the relays. 2. I also assume that your up/down switches are small 2-pole, momentary on-on switches to activate the relays; and it appears that you're using approximately 22 gauge wire for all of the low-voltage stuff. 3. Finally, the hoist we are using is also a 440 lb unit, and it looks very similar to yours. It has a big startup capacitor mounted inside the handheld control. Did yours have a startup capacitor? If so, is it installed in your nice wall-mounted control box? Or maybe it's just not necessary? Thanks again!
Yes, a 12V transformer powers the low voltage relays. Wiring is 18 gauge. Yes up / down switches are SPDT center off momentary. This particular HF hoist has the starting capacitor in the box on the hoist itself. You definitely will need to keep the capacitor. You could just put it in your control box enclosure.
Doesn't the speed depend upon the wench it's self? (I'm really ignorant to all of the actual hardware and wiring.) I work in a hotel that has 3 floors and watching the housekeepers carry all of the linen and supplies everyday to the third floor made me think that we have a laundry shoot that goes from third floor to the laundry room on the first floor. So I asked a friend of mine to install a wench inside of the shaft so that a mesh laundry basket could be attached and lifted to carry all the linens up. It was a good idea, but execution needed some work. I didn't have a track or a shelf that it attached to, so the hook just hung down. The housekeepers (spoke just enough English to get by) didn't think it was fast enough, so they didn't use it. Kept asking for the man to fix it faster. Well, once I looked at the skematics that came along with the wench, it stated that it went so many meters per minute, I assumed that there wasn't a way to make it faster. Does the way that this is installed, with the seperate relays to each function, enable the user to change the speed?
@@jamielacerte9806 yes your right about the speed of your wench. Your at a hotel so that's a commercial job. There's a lot of liability on a commercial job. I would take it down and make your boss pay for a dumb waiter to be installed.
This is a very nice build. The controls are well done. Congrats on that!! With such nice work I hesitate to make a negative comment. From the video it appears this install is in an environment where you could have 20 different people there. Maybe a variety of people moving things around in the loft. For that reason I think you need railings at the edge of the loft. My post is 2 years late so hopefully you've already taken care of that. Again, I praise your work but the safety aspect shouldn't be ignored.
Dude. This this is so incredibly dangerous! If someone gets a leg or arm stuck in it, then it will tear it off. Obviously no inspections on this thing. And as commercial space, the liability is ... astronomical! Sorry to rain on the parade.
![เขามัทรี - เอ็กซ์ ศุภกฤต - จอนนี่มิวสิค [ Official MV ]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/AS9ufKuQIVs/mqdefault.jpg)
Thanks for sharing! We love a house plan but will need a dumbwaiter as garage is downstairs. This is perfect!!
Do you have the schmatic info on the dumb waiter? Is so would you forward to Me?
Nice design and build. Exactly what I was looking for. I can easily add a safety line or brake.
you want a slack cable safety where if the cable ever goes under slack, 2 spring loaded bars swing out and get stuck in slots in the channeling. Its how the first elevators did it
I would love a copy of this set up and the wiring great stuff
Is there any chance you have a material list for this project? In specific what relay switches are you using? Are the relays all DC?
Very impressed on the electronics. i would also appreciate a copy of the wiring.
You did a fine job and made something useful. Great vid !
This is awesome, did you ever get around to drawing up a schematic for those of us diy guys? Would like to make one for firewood. Thanks for sharing
Suggestion…. add a second cable to the winch as a safety backup. I’ve had a similar mechanism using a steel cable which after many cycles ended up fraying and breaking. Your travel isn’t that great and the winch drum should easily accommodate a second cable. The second cable will serve to hold the platform in the event either one of the cables break.
nothing is better than relay logic
Again another impressed subscriber. I too would appreciate a wiring diagram and part number. Thank you
great looking project. would you also include me with a copy of the schematic
since I am getting on in years i would like to get some of my stuff out of the attic.
thank you
The wiring etc. in a nutshell;
JZSlenker
3 years ago
I don't have a schematic on paper. Basically your need two DPDT relays to replace the rocker switch that comes on the winch. One relay determines the direction, the other relay is "ON" Apply power to the on relay to cause the winch to move, apply to both (via a diode) and it will move in the opposite direction. To get the circuit to latch you setup two other relays that latch (via one of the two contacts). This latch is cut off by the limit switches that are setup for NC operation.
2
Bill Gurley
Bill Gurley
3 years ago
Thanks for your reply! That is helpful. I have a couple of other questions. 1. I assume that you're using a transformer to supply either 12vac or 24vac to activate the relays. 2. I also assume that your up/down switches are small 2-pole, momentary on-on switches to activate the relays; and it appears that you're using approximately 22 gauge wire for all of the low-voltage stuff. 3. Finally, the hoist we are using is also a 440 lb unit, and it looks very similar to yours. It has a big startup capacitor mounted inside the handheld control. Did yours have a startup capacitor? If so, is it installed in your nice wall-mounted control box? Or maybe it's just not necessary? Thanks again!
1
JZSlenker
JZSlenker
3 years ago
Yes, a 12V transformer powers the low voltage relays. Wiring is 18 gauge. Yes up / down switches are SPDT center off momentary. This particular HF hoist has the starting capacitor in the box on the hoist itself. You definitely will need to keep the capacitor. You could just put it in your control box enclosure.
2
JZSlenker
4 years ago
The limit switches are from Grainger. They are Dayton brand SPDT. The Grainger part # is 12T962 they cost about $25 each
Quick question? Why didn't you just use the wired remote that comes with this winch?
JZSlenker
JZSlenker
4 years ago
That would have worked but I didn't want the operation to be dependent on the operator stopping it manually at either end. If you go too far on the down direction the steel cable would have un-spooled resulting in a cable spool that would wear the cable out prematurely.
th-cam.com/video/hSJOybytQ1E/w-d-xo.html
Very nice set up. I have the hoist using manually right now. Do you have a parts list and wiring diagram? I'd pay you for it. thanks
I really hope you put up a simple fence / railing / barrier because I can see someone falling off that upper level simply by stepping backwards while being distracted or not paying attention etc. You'll have one big lawsuit on your hands then. Anyway, thanks for sharing. 😉👌🏻
I’m very impressed. Anyway to get a wiring diagram with part numbers. I would be happy to compensate you.
I have built a home elevator for my disabled granddaughter. Have it working but can’t figure out a down limit switch. Would you have a wiring plan that could help me do that. I am using a standard AC winch. Tom sudyk
this is incredible. im trying to figure oit how to make this on my school bus to get my piano on the roof deck. im not sure how yet.
It's very impressive lift. Your replays control are great. Would you post the diagram of parts and wiring information? It's helpful. Thanks
I would love to have the schematics of the wiring and materials if you have. Trying to retrofit an existing system with a new hoist etc.
This is a super application for a diy dumbwaiter. You wouldn't happen to be willing to part with a schematic / parts list? I've been trying to figure one out for the garage to move groceries to the living space. My wife would love it.
The "tracks" are barn door sliding door channel from Tractor Supply, the platform is constructed of welded steel brackets that are bolted to the barn door hangars. The limit switches are cheap Chinese ones from Grainger, part #12T962. There are three limit switches, one at the top and one at the bottom to stop the movement when it reaches the up or down position. The third is an emergency stop limit that stops the hoist if a relay hangs or other failure occurs in the control relays. It is wired directly inline with the motor so if the lift blows through the upper limit switch is will stop the motor before the whole thing self destructs. I'll try to come up with a schematic for you.
Yes, a wiring diagram and electrical parts list would be awesome.
I too want to make a dumbwaiter for groceries. Please include a wiring diagram!
I need to build the same thing. Would love a parts and wiring diagram for switches.
Love to see how to wire the thing. Thanks
Awesome!! Would love to see a wiring diagram of this…..PLEASE???? Or put one on Etsy…..
Necessity is the mother of invention. Great application. Possible you have a schematic? + Your relays are clearly marked. It's clear what the first four relays are. I'm not sure what the "ON" and the "DIR" are. Mind clarifying? And, again, a schematic would be really helpful. I'd be so grateful. Don Martin
Any chance you have plans and electrical layout for you project.Great job !!!!
Do you have the wiring diagram and the specific relays/ limit switches you used on the project? If yes can I get a copy ?
looks and works great. what type of relays did you use? what type of switch on the wall did you use? any help is appreciated. thanks
Better check your state regs. I know Massachusetts it would definitely be a no-go, as dumb waiters are considered elevator and need a licensed mechanic to do the instation and registration.
I’m trying to do this exact same thing but can’t figure out how or what’s needed to make it work. Is there any way I can get a schematic so I can get this done for my mother? I’d really appreciate the help if you’re willing
Really a good looking job, would like to know if you have A wiring diagram I’m wanting to build something similar to what you’ve got thanks don
Could a similar setup be completed with only 4 relays (Up Limit, Down Limit, Up, Down), or is the On and Direction needed?
Needs a direction somewhere, if its not a relay in the box it will be extra buttons on the wall. The ON was required due to the type of motor he used, so if you can find a motor that works without the ON relay then bonus.
hi there,
I like incorporating the limiting switch in your design. I am building a lift as well, could you please share the schematic and parts (Relays, switches, etc) required to build this mechanism? thanks
Yes I know! used used one and designed a retractable staircase!!! I'm trying to post it but now that Google took over youtube I can't seem to post it!! I have the same unit as you and well I like the idea of limiting switch!! Maybe we can trade some ideas through email!!! I really like this design!!! But would like wiring diagrams/ where to get the relays etc.
Do you have a diagram or something for the relays?
It would be really cool if you could share a simple diagram for the relays! I'm considering putting a dumbwaiter in my house and would love to build it myself. I'm good on the mechanical end of things, but the logic side not so much. If you could help me skip past the trial and error part it would be greatly appreciated!
It looks like in the top of his box there are wires using 3 cores to the control switches, limit up and down look to be the ones with only 2 cores but the emergency limit seems to be the black wire that intercepts the power below the ON relay.
The wall switches seem to be common/up/down so im thinking he has used momentary up/down toggle with center return to activate the UP/DN relays which latch until kicked out by the limit relays. But i don't see anything stopping the motor from running when a switched is used in the wrong direction.
So if its already up and you flick the switch up instead of down then it will continue to raise past the switch for as long as the signal is sent, provided the limit is still triggered it will stop as soon as you let go, but if its not triggered because the pin it rests on has already gone past it wont until it drops the power with the emergency switch.
It also looks like the big black cable is not only the motor out but also power in. Which is why there needs to be an ON relay.
So the emergency limit is the only protection from people doing the wrong thing which will require someone to manually repair it and if that's not done carefully then it could destroy your limit switches. So i think it should have another relay or two so once the unit is up, it locks out the up control signal and if the unit is down it locks out the down signal. Then it should be user friendly so when you flick the wrong direction it just sits there.
@@matthewlloyd8920 Fantastic! Thank you sir!
Do you have the schmatic info on the dumb waiter? Is so could you forward to me?
Very impressive, I planning to build one. Is it possible to get from you the wiring diagram and where to get the relays box?
How can I get plans? I just ran across this an it would be great for my kitchen remodel
Could you use this for different levels. Like 2 floors
Not to beat a dead horse, but could I please get a schematic of your circuit?
Nice looking still didn't see wiring schematic anyway you could publish?
Would love to have this so I don’t have to carry things up and down basement steps
Can you make a wire diagram or a video to explain how it works a show us in a video
Someday, I'm gonna do a video about how to include a five second shot of a circuit diagram in the video itself.
HOW DO YOU TELL IF THE HOIST IS A SINGLE OR DOUBLE LINE?
Did you ever create a schematic and parts list (better yet where to also purchase them) for the Dumb Waiter controller circuit?). I will gladly pay you for it. Thanks
JK can you explain the base to me? Is that wood? Im about to build this for my warehouse i have a loft this is great. thanks
That's an impressive relay setup there. What did you major?
Inspired by your video, I just finished building a similar dumb waiter to bring firewood from the basement to a ground floor fireplace. I used Unistrut rails and a 5 to 1 pulley system as I wanted to have the hoist in an accessible location. The travel distance is short so I could do without limit switches but I welcome the challenge to reproduce your control system. Can you please provide me with the model number of the Omron relays. Thanks in advance.
Very nice lift JZSlenker
Can this be used outdoors in cold and wet climates?
I want to build this model. can you or someone build and supply the control box and wiring diagram? what would be cost including shipping too Hampton Va. thanks for any help you can provide.. Gibby Gibson
Quick question? Why didn't you just use the wired remote that comes with this winch?
That would have worked but I didn't want the operation to be dependent on the operator stopping it manually at either end. If you go too far on the down direction the steel cable would have un-spooled resulting in a cable spool that would wear the cable out prematurely.
I hope you are still following this post. I was wondering if you have a wiring diagram. that was a really good solution for remote up down control using relays. if so do you have a way i can contact you so you can email it to me. thanks, great solution...
JZ, did you ever do a wiring diagram on this? I would love to see it. I'm helping a friend with something like this, although he wants about three "stations", which would make it more complicated. I'm also wondering how you handled the "latching" of the relays so that they don't relax the relays when you release the momentary up/down switch. I'm assuming this is done with the relays in the gray box? Then they release the latching when the limit switch is activated? Thanks.
I don't have a schematic on paper. Basically your need two DPDT relays to replace the rocker switch that comes on the winch. One relay determines the direction, the other relay is "ON" Apply power to the on relay to cause the winch to move, apply to both (via a diode) and it will move in the opposite direction. To get the circuit to latch you setup two other relays that latch (via one of the two contacts). This latch is cut off by the limit switches that are setup for NC operation.
Thanks for your reply! That is helpful. I have a couple of other questions. 1. I assume that you're using a transformer to supply either 12vac or 24vac to activate the relays. 2. I also assume that your up/down switches are small 2-pole, momentary on-on switches to activate the relays; and it appears that you're using approximately 22 gauge wire for all of the low-voltage stuff. 3. Finally, the hoist we are using is also a 440 lb unit, and it looks very similar to yours. It has a big startup capacitor mounted inside the handheld control. Did yours have a startup capacitor? If so, is it installed in your nice wall-mounted control box? Or maybe it's just not necessary? Thanks again!
Yes, a 12V transformer powers the low voltage relays. Wiring is 18 gauge. Yes up / down switches are SPDT center off momentary. This particular HF hoist has the starting capacitor in the box on the hoist itself. You definitely will need to keep the capacitor. You could just put it in your control box enclosure.
Could this be done with AC relays?
Very nice.
Where to buy the electrical control box
Can you make an in depth vid about this elevator and link parts
This is a great dumb waiter. Could you give me info on the control box and wiring diagram? Thanks
Very nice! Could you post a wiring diagram?
How much does entire setup cost ?
Needs two more limit switches and a high speed up relay and a high speed down relay
Chaz Hart care to elaborate? Does this mean high speed in the middle between floors?
Doesn't the speed depend upon the wench it's self? (I'm really ignorant to all of the actual hardware and wiring.) I work in a hotel that has 3 floors and watching the housekeepers carry all of the linen and supplies everyday to the third floor made me think that we have a laundry shoot that goes from third floor to the laundry room on the first floor. So I asked a friend of mine to install a wench inside of the shaft so that a mesh laundry basket could be attached and lifted to carry all the linens up. It was a good idea, but execution needed some work. I didn't have a track or a shelf that it attached to, so the hook just hung down. The housekeepers (spoke just enough English to get by) didn't think it was fast enough, so they didn't use it. Kept asking for the man to fix it faster. Well, once I looked at the skematics that came along with the wench, it stated that it went so many meters per minute, I assumed that there wasn't a way to make it faster. Does the way that this is installed, with the seperate relays to each function, enable the user to change the speed?
@@jamielacerte9806 yes your right about the speed of your wench. Your at a hotel so that's a commercial job. There's a lot of liability on a commercial job. I would take it down and make your boss pay for a dumb waiter to be installed.
Thats awesome, Do you have any plans for this, if so I would like to have them, PM Me and I will give you my eMail
I'd also like to
wiring diagram please, this would be most awesome
Very nice!
Ok ok thats perfectly what im looking to make for man cave above garage so how can i get all the specs from you great brother thumbs up
would you also include me with a copy of the schematic thanks
This is a very nice build. The controls are well done. Congrats on that!! With such nice work I hesitate to make a negative comment. From the video it appears this install is in an environment where you could have 20 different people there. Maybe a variety of people moving things around in the loft. For that reason I think you need railings at the edge of the loft. My post is 2 years late so hopefully you've already taken care of that. Again, I praise your work but the safety aspect shouldn't be ignored.
Yeah. No railing on the ladder. Someone is going to get seriously hurt or killed. :(
Where did you get the limit switch?
The limit switches are from Grainger. They are Dayton brand SPDT. The Grainger part # is 12T962 they cost about $25 each
@@JZSlenker are you willing to share your plans?
You genius!!
Dude. This this is so incredibly dangerous! If someone gets a leg or arm stuck in it, then it will tear it off. Obviously no inspections on this thing. And as commercial space, the liability is ... astronomical! Sorry to rain on the parade.
Send me sir relay wiring daigram please
K going to bed soon. Love you.
Too noisy for domestic use.
it sucks