It's really game changer The day i tried it, it changed my way of foiling. Now using 3,5 and its a pleasure, touchdowns are "soft as butter" :) Do a video about shims on the rear wing now, could interest a lot of us i guess :) Thanks for the tips
That’s exactly what I thought when I first tried it! Good idea to do a video on backwings. Although I have to say that every manufacturer handles stuff differently so I could just talk about basic theories.
@@giannithoma4324 kind of. You have to pop the nose up so that the frontwing is in neutral position so it may be a little bit more difficult to take off compared to 0 degree rake.
Working with the Shims can change the Foil experience totally and would help most of the foilers out there to bring your foiling to the next Level. Every Manufacturer of Foil and Board use other angles of the Mast / Foilbox, means, your Board will fly totaly different by using it with different foil combinations (like, one day with Starboard, the other Day with F4 e.g)! I had the oposit problem... my Board / Foil combo was flying like hell and with every gust it starts rocketing.... Now, since i use a 1/3 Shim to put the nose of the board more down, the whole flying is unbelievable stable, speed picked up, cand ride better course angles, and can also rail the Board when foiling.... Totaly stable now, what a surprise. Therefore i can highly recomend trying some shims in case your gear is tending to Fly too much or heading back to the water , and that effect can not be solved by adjusting the angle of the backwing you are using.... Hope to see more videos like that soon...
Segellatten aus alten Surfsegel kann man gut zurechtschneiden und bohren. Da diese konisch verlaufen eignen sie sich sehr gut als "Unterlegscheibe" und der Foilkopf drückt über die ganze Fläche auf die Innenseite der Foilbox bzw. Deep tuttle Box.
You could just use a protractor to measure the angle. I'm just getting my stuff together and haven't got to actually try it yet so absolute kook stage but I had this idea of creating lift with board aerodynamics. The board can have foil and be the wing. Enough wing and you become a flying fish. Air as a liquid extension of the water. Use the water foil for landing gear and pump up up and awaaaay. Pretty sure keeping the nose up with the shims creates some lift as long as the angle isn't too steep. Now add stubby wings and the mast and foil can be the rudder and ballast. I'm too old to want to be more than a foot off the water but maybe the sky is the limit.
Hello! Not a pro at all, here are my findings anyways, about Starboard 177 race board and race foil from the pre-IQ era. In the original condition it was very scary to fly since the nose was pointing downwards ready to hit a chop. I checked the rake, it was 0.6 degrees. Our local forum said I needed 1.6-1.9 rake. After I added a self made shim (cutted it from a piece of linoleum) the rake became 1.4 degrees. It was night and day, but the head of the foil mast was not that tight now. Then I grinded away some material from the head, about the shim's thicknes at the rear and 0 at front. Marked the sloping line carefully, and also added sort of a clamp as a limiter for the process. Now the head is tight, but still touching the well bottom, and the rake is 1.7-1.8 degrees. I am still using this setup after several years, very satisfied, the flight hight is steady in the gusts, but maybe still wanting to go downwards just a bit. Back to the video, 3 degrees, wow, I wish I saw it before, I'll try some more rake, thanks! Also, why starboard does not make the gear with the optimal setup from the beginning? Shims are not good because they make the head loose, and grinding the mast head by customers, that is not right. I wonder if I am alone who has risked the grinding.
Good topic. I tried 0.7 all the way up to 4 degrees in my early foil days, but I felt too over powered and controllable power. This video got me thinking it were probably due to my skill. However in general, wouldn't the greater angle, due to increased angle of attack, slow the board down?
The idea of a greater angle killing the speed is correct to some extend. But that's also the case if you have too small angle as then the wind is pushing from the top as you have to keep in mind that while slalom foiling the board is also angled sideways. And most important thing is that as soon as you have only one minor touchdown (touching a small wave with one rail for instance) on a reach than the little amount of speed you have gained from smaller angle is surpassed by the impact of the board hitting the water. So I would recommend everyone rather going for too much rake than too little :)
Earlier planning only until a certain amount of rake. Because if it is too much the foil basically faces down when in a floating position with your board. Also depends how your pumping technique is
For winging 3 degrees seems a lot. What do you think would be the appropriate range of rake for wing and what are the differences with windfoil that makes we don't need so much angle with wing? Thanks
Hi, unfortunately I have no clew what a good rake is for winging. I think the default angle works well for most wingfoilboards. My guess would be that you need less rake because your wing is naturally pulling you up instead of your sail pushing your board down. And wing boards are more touchdown friendly due to their shape 🤙🏻
As always it is hard to give an answer which suits all situations. To some extend it helps for sure to sail with greater backwing angle. But this only works if you were sailing with too little backwing power in the first place. When I use my slalom setup with perfect power distribution then most of my touchdowns come from unavoidable waves or unexpected gusts/lulls. In that case I don't see how I could avoid them but just being able to survive them better helps me a lot
Foiling occasionally for about 1,5 year now, nut still a bit confused about the ideal set up. There are just too many ways to change the clock: foot strap position, mast foot position, front wing size, back wing shim... and now the rake🤪 When do I change what? ...espacially considering the back wing shim vs. the rake? Thanks and rock on your channel, buddy! 👊😎
It is really and endless story! For me I have found that I can easily go with the same rake in every conditions. So all in all I would stick with the same Rake if you found a good one for your gear. I also have mostly only one backwing angle set up per sail. If you want to do competitions (or don't want to stress yourself in free sailing) I would recommend finding on set up for each sail and then trying to get used to it in the whole wind range instead of changing every 2 knots of wind.
when I put a 2mm spacer, I measure 3.6 deg BUT I also see a little gap opening up between foilbox and the front face of the masthead. I am wondering, if that leads to problems, when there is less support from the front of the box.. starboard race foil with starboard 177 foil board.
You are right this is a common problem which can come up. For sure it is not good but honestly I don't know exactly how bad it is. I have had it with my foil slalom board and my iq mast the whole winter and at some point I pushed some old shims in (which were already broken so I couldn't have used it anymore). I did that to fill up the gap you have mentioned at least a little bit.
Great channel!Many thanks. I have been using IQ foils but have just bought some high end race foils.I am having problems getting up on the foil and when up it all feels very uncontrollable constantly touching down and not able to go down wind. Mast rake is 2.4,tail wing 200cm with -1mm shim, front wing 730.Any help most welcome.Thanks again Pete
Hi Michele I am a beginner, but I have a foil IQ starboard, the seller said me that the foil must to be at 1,6 degrades respect the board. Is it possible? or better the your setup 3.6. tks for reply
Hi, I am not too much into iQ but I remember that the iQ guys always used less rake then we on our slalom boards. So better listen to the seller however I feel like 2 or 2.5 should also be possible
I have a JP freefoil 115 board, and the ALI mast on the starboard has a factory angle of 1.5 degrees. The deep tuttle in the board is also set at 1.5 degrees, so I already have a total of 3 degrees at the start. I set the rear wing to 0 and +1 degrees (for testing), and I use a supercruiser 1700 foil. With winds up to 12 knots, the back of the board is heavily submerged in the water, causing significant drag at my weight of 80kg, even when I try to stand next to the mast (my board speed is max 4-5kt in those conditions). I manage to get into foiling with pumping only at 16 knots or more with a Severne Glide2 7m2 sail. Other windsurfers on IQ foils start foiling at 6kt wind. How can I adjust everything so that the back of the board lifts, and the board glides flat on the water? If it happens, I shouldn't be dragging the board, and it should allow me to speed up to 10kt in low wind and take off at wind speeds as low as 6-7 knots with little pumping.
This is obviously a bit of an old comment by now, but in case you are still wondering, I can tell my stats. I get foiling somewhere around 6-8 knots, I'm thinking possibly as low as 5 or 6 knots of wind, but of course it is hard to see exactly the speed of the wind. First of all I'm 64 kg so different ball game. But I go with 8.5 m^2, so you might need a bigger sail if you're going with 7 m^2. You also may need a larger board for the slogging speed, unless you're comfortable pumping up all the time or maybe those foil-specific windfoil boards are that much better. I use a 1534 cm^2 front wing slingshot v4 HoverGlide low aspect with a 155 L 87 cm^2 wide RRD Firemove LTD windsurf/windfoil hybrid. My board speed is 3.5 knots when I feel confident to start trying to pump, and probably about 3/4 of the time I then make it up to the foil and get to base foiling speed of about 12 knots. If my board speed is 4.5 knots slogging (measured by my smartwatch), I'm super confident that I can pump up to the foil, and I get up and stay probably about 90% of the time. If my board speed is about 5.5 knots, I can just sit back in the harness and the straps and lift up with no effort to the foil and stay there pretty much every time. Basically, I believe your board cannot help but drag at that amount of volume and your weight. You can try moving the mast base as far forward as possible, though, and that may help a bit. So your choices are a bigger board in volume, a bigger sail to just overpower the slogging stage, or possibly adjust the foil position on the fuselage if it's possible on that foil, or more rake. My Slingshot v4 HoverGlide seems to be best for lifting up to the foil at the "C" position, which puts the foil mast as far back as possible on the fuselage, and the front wing as far forward as possible. So if you can, a farther forward front wing may be helpful. I haven't messed around with shims, just left the default ones on the rear wing and whatever the deep tuttle setting / foil mast setting has built in already. Based on what Michele's saying in the video it does seem you could try going for a small foil mast shim to make the rake angle 4 degrees instead of 3 degrees, and try other things if that doesn't work.
@@hanslaught2351 Very good tips, thank you. Indeed, after 8 months, I have made some adjustments. I can start pumping when the GPS shows a minimum of 6.5 knots, then I have a chance to lift off. Unfortunately, I sail on lakes where the wind is weak and very gusty. For 5 seconds, it blows well, then for the next 5 seconds, it's too weak. I will check the rear wing foil setting at +1 (max) and move the sail forward; maybe that will help. I don't have more adjustments available. Overall, you are right that I need a bigger board and a larger sail. At the moment, I spend most of my time standing on the water while others are sailing. During an hour of sailing, I hover for a total of maybe 4 km max. Sailing sidewind is possible when the wind is around 16 knots; in lighter winds of 12-15 knots, I manage to sail downwind only. It's also difficult to sail in straps placed on the edge of the board because the board tilts so much that I fall into the water, so I have to stay around the center of the board. Then the sail cannot be closed enough to get maximum power.
Would it be better to shim the mast into the fuse? Or have the manufactures provide full length shims for either or both to maintain the best possible connection.
I think the fuselage needs to stay with the same angle to the mast because when you are foiling your board will adjust to your whole foil system so that would mean that the mast goes in fact straight through the water
Sorry for the late responds!! At times I would agree especially as it heavily varies from board to board. With starboard for example you don't need such a high rake because the bottom of the board has already a "touchdown friendly shape". But in general the speed you gain from the minimized airflow is gone as soon as so only hit a single chop with the edge of your board.
Hi, yes it can be hard to find them. Honestly I don't know about a specific website or shop which is selling them. I am lucky that a relative of mine has a 3D printer. Where are you from? Do you know any other foil racers in your region?
@@michelebeckerwindsurfing thank you for the reply. Based on the South Coast of the UK and not many people use shims around here. Shame they aren't more widely available.
In theory yes but I have never heard about someone doing it. First of all not all slalom touch the bottom of the box so the shim would just be loose and would not have an effect and the other point is that on fin it is much more important that the fin is even with the board. That means the advantage you would get for changing the rake is smaller then the disadvantage of a piece of the finhead sticking out. Interesting idea though!!
So funny to hear Germans speaking englisch ;))) Btw.- if you use the right board and the right angle for the stabilizer this set up is not needed. And with the current Sabfoil masts, the pressure problem also does not exist.
What should "right board" in that context mean? Also what you achieve with rake is totally different than what you can achieve with stabilizer settings.
![เปิดบ้าน โคตรสวย ป๋องกพล รู้จักตั้งนาน เพิ่งรู้ว่ารวย!!! l [Nickynachat]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/tmgCF_2HfYI/mqdefault.jpg)
It's really game changer
The day i tried it, it changed my way of foiling.
Now using 3,5 and its a pleasure, touchdowns are "soft as butter" :)
Do a video about shims on the rear wing now, could interest a lot of us i guess :)
Thanks for the tips
That’s exactly what I thought when I first tried it!
Good idea to do a video on backwings. Although I have to say that every manufacturer handles stuff differently so I could just talk about basic theories.
Does the foil generate less power with more rake to come on to the foil doesnt it ?
@@giannithoma4324 kind of. You have to pop the nose up so that the frontwing is in neutral position so it may be a little bit more difficult to take off compared to 0 degree rake.
Working with the Shims can change the Foil experience totally and would help most of the foilers out there to bring your foiling to the next Level. Every Manufacturer of Foil and Board use other angles of the Mast / Foilbox, means, your Board will fly totaly different by using it with different foil combinations (like, one day with Starboard, the other Day with F4 e.g)!
I had the oposit problem... my Board / Foil combo was flying like hell and with every gust it starts rocketing.... Now, since i use a 1/3 Shim to put the nose of the board more down, the whole flying is unbelievable stable, speed picked up, cand ride better course angles, and can also rail the Board when foiling.... Totaly stable now, what a surprise.
Therefore i can highly recomend trying some shims in case your gear is tending to Fly too much or heading back to the water , and that effect can not be solved by adjusting the angle of the backwing you are using....
Hope to see more videos like that soon...
Segellatten aus alten Surfsegel kann man gut zurechtschneiden und bohren. Da diese konisch verlaufen eignen sie sich sehr gut als "Unterlegscheibe" und der Foilkopf drückt über die ganze Fläche auf die Innenseite der Foilbox bzw. Deep tuttle Box.
Ja stimmt! Mega gute Idee. Da kann ich doch nochmal die alten Segellatten von Opa zusammen sammeln ;)
Hi Mihele, great insight!!!! Thank you
You could just use a protractor to measure the angle.
I'm just getting my stuff together and haven't got to actually try it yet so absolute kook stage but I had this idea of creating lift with board aerodynamics.
The board can have foil and be the wing.
Enough wing and you become a flying fish.
Air as a liquid extension of the water.
Use the water foil for landing gear and pump up up and awaaaay.
Pretty sure keeping the nose up with the shims creates some lift as long as the angle isn't too steep.
Now add stubby wings and the mast and foil can be the rudder and ballast.
I'm too old to want to be more than a foot off the water but maybe the sky is the limit.
Hello! Not a pro at all, here are my findings anyways, about Starboard 177 race board and race foil from the pre-IQ era. In the original condition it was very scary to fly since the nose was pointing downwards ready to hit a chop. I checked the rake, it was 0.6 degrees. Our local forum said I needed 1.6-1.9 rake. After I added a self made shim (cutted it from a piece of linoleum) the rake became 1.4 degrees. It was night and day, but the head of the foil mast was not that tight now. Then I grinded away some material from the head, about the shim's thicknes at the rear and 0 at front. Marked the sloping line carefully, and also added sort of a clamp as a limiter for the process. Now the head is tight, but still touching the well bottom, and the rake is 1.7-1.8 degrees. I am still using this setup after several years, very satisfied, the flight hight is steady in the gusts, but maybe still wanting to go downwards just a bit.
Back to the video, 3 degrees, wow, I wish I saw it before, I'll try some more rake, thanks! Also, why starboard does not make the gear with the optimal setup from the beginning? Shims are not good because they make the head loose, and grinding the mast head by customers, that is not right. I wonder if I am alone who has risked the grinding.
Good topic.
I tried 0.7 all the way up to 4 degrees in my early foil days, but I felt too over powered and controllable power.
This video got me thinking it were probably due to my skill.
However in general, wouldn't the greater angle, due to increased angle of attack, slow the board down?
The idea of a greater angle killing the speed is correct to some extend. But that's also the case if you have too small angle as then the wind is pushing from the top as you have to keep in mind that while slalom foiling the board is also angled sideways. And most important thing is that as soon as you have only one minor touchdown (touching a small wave with one rail for instance) on a reach than the little amount of speed you have gained from smaller angle is surpassed by the impact of the board hitting the water. So I would recommend everyone rather going for too much rake than too little :)
Thank you for the gerat video...In resume...MOoe rake= early planing and lees tack?
Earlier planning only until a certain amount of rake. Because if it is too much the foil basically faces down when in a floating position with your board. Also depends how your pumping technique is
Thanks for the tip. When do you put a shim on the stabilizer?
shimming the stabilizer will define the main power of the foil
For winging 3 degrees seems a lot. What do you think would be the appropriate range of rake for wing and what are the differences with windfoil that makes we don't need so much angle with wing? Thanks
Hi, unfortunately I have no clew what a good rake is for winging. I think the default angle works well for most wingfoilboards. My guess would be that you need less rake because your wing is naturally pulling you up instead of your sail pushing your board down. And wing boards are more touchdown friendly due to their shape 🤙🏻
@@michelebeckerwindsurfing I think the same but thanks for your comment.
+1.5 max
Can you achieve similar results, e.g. less touch downs at least, with angling rear wing?
As always it is hard to give an answer which suits all situations. To some extend it helps for sure to sail with greater backwing angle. But this only works if you were sailing with too little backwing power in the first place. When I use my slalom setup with perfect power distribution then most of my touchdowns come from unavoidable waves or unexpected gusts/lulls. In that case I don't see how I could avoid them but just being able to survive them better helps me a lot
Danke. Mega tip
Foiling occasionally for about 1,5 year now, nut still a bit confused about the ideal set up. There are just too many ways to change the clock: foot strap position, mast foot position, front wing size, back wing shim... and now the rake🤪 When do I change what? ...espacially considering the back wing shim vs. the rake? Thanks and rock on your channel, buddy! 👊😎
It is really and endless story! For me I have found that I can easily go with the same rake in every conditions. So all in all I would stick with the same Rake if you found a good one for your gear. I also have mostly only one backwing angle set up per sail. If you want to do competitions (or don't want to stress yourself in free sailing) I would recommend finding on set up for each sail and then trying to get used to it in the whole wind range instead of changing every 2 knots of wind.
What would be the starting rake angle for a Starboard Supercruiser recreational windfoil. Thanks
Unfortunately I don’t know the setup but 2,5 should be good to start with
when I put a 2mm spacer, I measure 3.6 deg BUT I also see a little gap opening up between foilbox and the front face of the masthead. I am wondering, if that leads to problems, when there is less support from the front of the box.. starboard race foil with starboard 177 foil board.
You are right this is a common problem which can come up. For sure it is not good but honestly I don't know exactly how bad it is. I have had it with my foil slalom board and my iq mast the whole winter and at some point I pushed some old shims in (which were already broken so I couldn't have used it anymore). I did that to fill up the gap you have mentioned at least a little bit.
Great channel!Many thanks.
I have been using IQ foils but have just bought some high end race foils.I am having problems getting up on the foil and when up it all feels very uncontrollable constantly touching down and not able to go down wind.
Mast rake is 2.4,tail wing 200cm with -1mm shim, front wing 730.Any help most welcome.Thanks again Pete
Hi Peter, can I ask what foil brand you are using? And are you aiming for slalom or up and downwind performance?
I m going to test or on my,so long i think i have to test that;)
Hi Michele I am a beginner, but I have a foil IQ starboard, the seller said me that the foil must to be at 1,6 degrades respect the board. Is it possible? or better the your setup 3.6. tks for reply
Hi, I am not too much into iQ but I remember that the iQ guys always used less rake then we on our slalom boards. So better listen to the seller however I feel like 2 or 2.5 should also be possible
I have a JP freefoil 115 board, and the ALI mast on the starboard has a factory angle of 1.5 degrees. The deep tuttle in the board is also set at 1.5 degrees, so I already have a total of 3 degrees at the start. I set the rear wing to 0 and +1 degrees (for testing), and I use a supercruiser 1700 foil. With winds up to 12 knots, the back of the board is heavily submerged in the water, causing significant drag at my weight of 80kg, even when I try to stand next to the mast (my board speed is max 4-5kt in those conditions). I manage to get into foiling with pumping only at 16 knots or more with a Severne Glide2 7m2 sail. Other windsurfers on IQ foils start foiling at 6kt wind. How can I adjust everything so that the back of the board lifts, and the board glides flat on the water? If it happens, I shouldn't be dragging the board, and it should allow me to speed up to 10kt in low wind and take off at wind speeds as low as 6-7 knots with little pumping.
This is obviously a bit of an old comment by now, but in case you are still wondering, I can tell my stats. I get foiling somewhere around 6-8 knots, I'm thinking possibly as low as 5 or 6 knots of wind, but of course it is hard to see exactly the speed of the wind. First of all I'm 64 kg so different ball game. But I go with 8.5 m^2, so you might need a bigger sail if you're going with 7 m^2. You also may need a larger board for the slogging speed, unless you're comfortable pumping up all the time or maybe those foil-specific windfoil boards are that much better. I use a 1534 cm^2 front wing slingshot v4 HoverGlide low aspect with a 155 L 87 cm^2 wide RRD Firemove LTD windsurf/windfoil hybrid.
My board speed is 3.5 knots when I feel confident to start trying to pump, and probably about 3/4 of the time I then make it up to the foil and get to base foiling speed of about 12 knots. If my board speed is 4.5 knots slogging (measured by my smartwatch), I'm super confident that I can pump up to the foil, and I get up and stay probably about 90% of the time. If my board speed is about 5.5 knots, I can just sit back in the harness and the straps and lift up with no effort to the foil and stay there pretty much every time.
Basically, I believe your board cannot help but drag at that amount of volume and your weight. You can try moving the mast base as far forward as possible, though, and that may help a bit. So your choices are a bigger board in volume, a bigger sail to just overpower the slogging stage, or possibly adjust the foil position on the fuselage if it's possible on that foil, or more rake. My Slingshot v4 HoverGlide seems to be best for lifting up to the foil at the "C" position, which puts the foil mast as far back as possible on the fuselage, and the front wing as far forward as possible. So if you can, a farther forward front wing may be helpful. I haven't messed around with shims, just left the default ones on the rear wing and whatever the deep tuttle setting / foil mast setting has built in already. Based on what Michele's saying in the video it does seem you could try going for a small foil mast shim to make the rake angle 4 degrees instead of 3 degrees, and try other things if that doesn't work.
@@hanslaught2351 Very good tips, thank you. Indeed, after 8 months, I have made some adjustments. I can start pumping when the GPS shows a minimum of 6.5 knots, then I have a chance to lift off. Unfortunately, I sail on lakes where the wind is weak and very gusty. For 5 seconds, it blows well, then for the next 5 seconds, it's too weak. I will check the rear wing foil setting at +1 (max) and move the sail forward; maybe that will help. I don't have more adjustments available. Overall, you are right that I need a bigger board and a larger sail. At the moment, I spend most of my time standing on the water while others are sailing. During an hour of sailing, I hover for a total of maybe 4 km max. Sailing sidewind is possible when the wind is around 16 knots; in lighter winds of 12-15 knots, I manage to sail downwind only. It's also difficult to sail in straps placed on the edge of the board because the board tilts so much that I fall into the water, so I have to stay around the center of the board. Then the sail cannot be closed enough to get maximum power.
Would it be better to shim the mast into the fuse? Or have the manufactures provide full length shims for either or both to maintain the best possible connection.
I think the fuselage needs to stay with the same angle to the mast because when you are foiling your board will adjust to your whole foil system so that would mean that the mast goes in fact straight through the water
What would you reply to Nico Prien saying he wants the board as parallel to the water to minimise wind resistance?
Sorry for the late responds!! At times I would agree especially as it heavily varies from board to board. With starboard for example you don't need such a high rake because the bottom of the board has already a "touchdown friendly shape". But in general the speed you gain from the minimized airflow is gone as soon as so only hit a single chop with the edge of your board.
@@michelebeckerwindsurfing Thanks Michele! Makes perfect sense.
thanks
Nice. What happens when you put 10° in your box?
Rocket mode 🚀
Which side Major foil angle Starboard or port?
Please can you let us know where you get these shims from? I can't seem to find any!
Hi, yes it can be hard to find them. Honestly I don't know about a specific website or shop which is selling them. I am lucky that a relative of mine has a 3D printer. Where are you from? Do you know any other foil racers in your region?
@@michelebeckerwindsurfing thank you for the reply. Based on the South Coast of the UK and not many people use shims around here. Shame they aren't more widely available.
@@robmf8601 Oh, that’s a shame! Unfortunately I don’t have a solution right now…
Ι guess these shims/spacers can be used with fins to change the rake too?
In theory yes but I have never heard about someone doing it. First of all not all slalom touch the bottom of the box so the shim would just be loose and would not have an effect and the other point is that on fin it is much more important that the fin is even with the board. That means the advantage you would get for changing the rake is smaller then the disadvantage of a piece of the finhead sticking out. Interesting idea though!!
can you send me the original ultra's?😍😍😍😍
Haha, it is such a beautiful location with those boards!
@@michelebeckerwindsurfing i have the boa at home. Still sailing it and still loving it.
Can you name the little tool to measure your rake please?
I think it is called "level box" in English
In deutsch ist das ein Digitaler LCD Winkelmesser / elektronische Wasserwaage
Which model/brand is it?
So funny to hear Germans speaking englisch ;))) Btw.- if you use the right board and the right angle for the stabilizer this set up is not needed. And with the current Sabfoil masts, the pressure problem also does not exist.
What should "right board" in that context mean? Also what you achieve with rake is totally different than what you can achieve with stabilizer settings.
"We as racers ...". Heh. Instead of trying to change the rake by 1 degree, just lose some weight.
That’s not how rake works 😅
@@michelebeckerwindsurfing And yet, it kinda does.