The thing I like most about DCC and CV setting is that you can set each locomotive to have different characteristics from each other, thus making driving locos more enjoyable. Keith
Once Again your tutorials are excellent love watching all your tutorials on TH-cam, you are very professional the way you come across, I could listen to you all day. Keep your tutorials coming. Many thanks Brian
I regularly modify CVs when the need arises and I am quite comfortable doing so, but It was a very good demonstration. I started with DCC because it give me sound which I quite enjoy. Rob
This would have been so helpful when dealing with the first shock of trying to understand an DCC I, like you, had to plunge in, commit the cash and practice faith to do what you did. It is handy to show a young lad i'm encouraging who, in enjoying this hobby, will be so much further ahead in his grasp of his future opportunities. Thanks.
Hi Austin, I’m so pleased that you enjoyed the video and good luck encouraging the young lad. We so desperately need to bring in fresh blood to our hobby. Good luck with your layout. Regards Charlie
All my fleet is DC .It would cost me a fortune to convert !!. I did stay as I enjoy your videos ..You are the Professor of Trains. Wise and full of Knowledge Thanks Mate
Nice one on CVs Charlie 👍🏻 Yes please some more on CVs as your tutorials are very good and easy to understand. I’ve never touched mine but I’m sure I’ll have a go now.......😆 Done some more tidying up in my garage and uncovered some of my layout lol 😆 Watching your Friday videos Charlie and some others I follow like Dave class 47 Richard Everard junction is giving me the impetus to start mine again after pulling down my large layout and reducing it to a more manageable size!! I’ll post some pictures eventually. One problem is me working 6 day’s a week away from home!! Anyway Spain again this weekend as we’ve just bought a home in Sucina in the Murcia region 😊 When I return I’ll make another start on my branch line layout using some of your techniques!! Looking forward to your next weeks update cheers Stevie.
Hi Charlie, I like many others just programme in the loco numbers but not very confident to start altering other CVs. Your video is an excellent source of information. It is easier to be shown how to do it rather than reading from a book. I am feeling more confident now and will use this for future reference, Thanks for sharing, regards John.
Thanks for a very helpful video Charlie. I would certainly be interested to learn more from you about CV's . Your style of presentation makes things both clear and interesting. Looking forward to seeing more.
Excellent Video Charlie, DCC can be very daunting for new comers, its all about reading and understanding what things do and being able to have a little time to play about with the trains until you get what you want from the Loco, i also log what i have done and use the last four digits on my Loco's :)
Great show Charlie ,very useful info for me as I just got into N scale model railroading and am going with DCC myself.I love all your videos and look forward to watching them (over and over again actually) I too have a binder/list with all my locos ,much like yours( I can`t believe how many I already have) and like the chap below me said ,I think it is a must.....no doubt about that. This indeed is a great hobby ,keep up the great work !
I've been a Digitrax user for 20 years after helping a friend demonstrate and sell DCC. The hardest part was convincing people they did not need to be computer literate. Geoff. W.
Good video / tutorial Charlie, thank you. Definitely not "sad", just well organised and methodical and recommended. I keep my own lists of all my model railway items to include information about the real item, such as, year of manufacture, where it was built and a picture, plus where and when I bought something and how much etc. I use this for insurance purposes and general knowledge of the loco or other item. Definitely using a list for DCC CVs otherwise I would get lost. More videos on some of these basics would be very welcome. I look forward to the next video 👍🏻
Thnaks Charlie for the excellente explanation on CV. Im new to the hobbu and I find you information extremely helpful. I see we have another hobby for me anyway in common being photography. I love your nature shots.
another great video , love the title . the art of cv,s is mindbogling ,the manufacturers dont help either,i have a bachmann class 25 with factory dcc sound and the cv list provided bears no resemblance to the cv,s ,ie list says cv 3 range 0-64 however cv3 range on the loco is 0-255 , great channel and great informative videos ,cheers mick
I think I know why there's the discrepancy. Decoder values used to be 1-64 or 0-64 or maybe 0-63. Since about 2011 they've changed to 0-255 and Bachmann hasn't updated its manuals. As 255 is about 4 times 64 then for any value they say in their instructions just multiply it by 4 and you should be getting close.
Yes thanks Charlie, you did a great job of explaining cv3&4, thanks I really appreciate it I'm new to dcc and am very interested in all I can learn, please continue the series, i will be watching them....thanks for sharing....Jack😀
Hi Charlie. I thought at first wen l heard the word ‘CV’ you’d got fed up with the video world and were applying for a new job! Lol! As a complete novice and ignoramus l knew nothing of DCC CV’s and didnt even know the word existed, but l do now thanks mate! I mean l don’t even own a train set.....oooops sorry ‘model railway layout’ so I’m listening and learning attentively and can’t wait for the day I’ve got my own layout! Obviously I’m learning DCC is the way forward and you’ve just confirmed that in your video to me. Thanks Charlie and keep your very informative videos coming please! And also it’s not sad keeping lists l think it’s called OCD and there’s plenty of medication on the market to help you with this condition! Loooooool! You won’t get many videos made once you’re taking them and they’ll be lotsa dribbling, but man oh man, you’ll be a happy dribbler! Looool!
Charlie, excellent video as usual. Would like to see more on CV's, but need to understand the relationships that exist between them also. Have been a subscriber for some time now and enjoy your work. Keep it up. Thanks Paul
I’ve seen fellow model railroaders also advise on a ring binder or notebook with descriptions on the loco and any changes to the cv’s . So great advice.. until next time cheers.
I for one would be very grateful for more cv info. Just spent the day trying out cv’s and totally confused. Had some info sent from Bachmann including some cv settings but that listing does not match that which comes with the Bachmann decoder. Using the Digitrax Zephyr. Thanks again Charlie Brian
Hi chuckles, yes these decoders from Bachmann can be a nightmare. Just believe the literature that came with the decoder. I will try to do a CV video in the near future. Regards Charlie
Chadwick Model Railway I totally agree now took took my loco with the Bachmann chip to a friend and he could not cure the problem. So we changed it for another later version ESU chip and managed to mostly solve the problem he seems to think it is to do with the back EMF. He has the ESU programmer so I will invest in one of those as you can see a lot more when loco connected to the PC.
Hi Charlie just found this video been trying to figure out how to make my n gauge locos at more prototypical for some time just tryed worked perfectly 👌
Hi Charlie, well done for undertaking a brief explanation of some of the most used CV's.It does seem to be a daunting thing to mess around with the settings but, like you say, note what you are doing and then you can always go back if things go pear shaped Great if you could do more and like Dragon Junction, a few at a time is the way to go. I also like calling my locos 1,2,3 etc. as modelling in N there is not a lot of hope in reading the cab side numbers!
I would welcome more on CVs Charlie - the basic advice in 24th Aug Video was interesting and your no nonsense, clear delivery always a delight - I eagerly await your moving this often confusing area forward and hope the fog starts to lift over my layout after that - I am using the entry level Gaugemaster DCC Prodigy 1
I use the black Roco Z21. Don't need to remember the loco address as all you do to select a loco is touch it's photo on the tablet. I have one old loco where the decoder only has 14 speed steps, so if you buy a second hand loco and it doesn't move under DCC, it's always worth trying it on 14 speed steps. I have found that changing direction instantly on my Big Boy fitted with an MRC sound decoder can confuse the decoder. So much so that it goes dead and won't move for a few days. Then it's fine again. I use Yard Office model railroad inventory software to store the details of all my locos and rolling stock. It's a free download, but you can purchase a licence to release extra features.
Very interesting and helpful. I would have liked to have seen more of the use of the Dynamis controller when inputting CV’s. carry on, will await further videos on DCC matters
Nice demonstration of the most useful CVs. As you have used decoders, and the soundfile manufacturers have improved their art, have you found much difference between the required CV settings (even from the same soundfile team)? It is challenging to work out what you can do with any one brand of decoder (and I include the soundfile as part of that branding). For example, one decoder (think it is South West Digital, so ESU V4) has a CV for walking speed (speed step 10) and then a chuff rate that can match that. So your loco will run at walking pace, with the chuffs arriving at the right (sort of) speed. I can quite see why people standardise on one type of decoder, so they can learn the wrinkles and configurations for that one; but in order to do that, you have to not keep looking around at the other options available. Thanks again for being so clear, Charlie. Regards, Tom
I’m so pleased that you enjoyed it Tom. My pet hate is fiction numbers on sound chips. How can they, for example, have flange squeal on 9 on one and 11 on another. I have yet to look into remapping but no doubt I will in the future. Regards Charlie
I have now watched a few of your videos which are very useful, you never stop learning and picking up tips. Have you made any further videos on setting CV's particularly relating to locos that do not run to well and require CV's adjusting outside what you may normally expect?
Thanks. Great video which I found extremely useful. I would love to see more on the same subject. The instruction manuals just don't do it for me but your style of presentation made it easy to understand.
Thanks for another great video, Charlie. I also dipped my toes into DCC with the Dynamis and Pro sets when i first got started, and now use Digitrax on my layout. I still use my Dynamis for my (completely separate) programming track. Great example of small changes to CVs and how they effect the loco. Thanks! Always enjoy your videos.
Hi John, I’m so pleased that you enjoyed the video. I too always use my Dynamis for programming as it seems far easier than the Digitrax system. Regards Charlie
Hello Charlie, sincere thanks for this video. I`m about to convert my locos to DCC, so I found this very interesting. When you have the time I would love to learn more on this subject. What I admire about your videos is the clear and simple way you have of explaining your subject matter...Congrats Cheers Greg
Hi Greg, I’m so pleased that you enjoyed the video and found it particularly useful. I’ll produce a more involved video in a couple of months. Regards Charlie
A very good video Charlie. I found some settings to do with Coupling Shuffle using my Ecos. But try as I might they wouldn't work, so still puzzled. Just wondered if you will be covering that some time please.
Great video Charlie liked & subbed. A question if you don't mind. Do you know how I would change an unrealistic loco speed compared to the speed I set. I run a Pendolino which has a minimum speed of 10mph but this looks more like 30 or 40mph in practice.
hello charlie from Australia,I have recently got back into making a model railway and wow as it changed,locos that move themselves and make sounds. I recently bought a bachmann dcc ready 21 pin,bought a 21 pin to 8 pin and fitted an 8 pin sound decoder. In my mind I thought you just plug in program the decoder with a number and hey presto the sound will work, alas not so I have a Hornby elite dcc control and I have tried to make the sounds and lights work but no go. So my question is do I have to program the cv with numbers for different functions etc and are all functions numbers same on all decoders regards Andrew
Hi Andrew, it should work straight out of the box, but on address number three. Perhaps if you take it to the shop where you bought it they can throw some light on this. Regards Charlie
Your cataloguing folder is very similar to what I do. I also have a binder for all dcc decoder manuals (in particular sound). Having a backup of cvs via JMRI and lokprogrammer is also simple and valuable. Incidentally, resetting CV8 should not wipe out sound projects. It should simply reset the sound decoder to its originally-programmed state, not blank decoder state.
In that case, caution is always good practice! I've never had a single problem resetting a sound chip, but if that's what the instructions say, best follow them :)
Hi Charlie saw your video of gaugemaster buffer lights you said that you can use them on dcc I use Hornby track with digital point clips to keep all my track live even when I have isolated a siding I use Hornby e-link for my controller so wondered if they would be suitable for me. Thanks again Kev (Beighton parkway) Sheffield Yorkshire
Have you done a video going in depth as I’d like to learn more especially the sound side as I’ve just bought a flying Scotsman with a zimo sound decoder fitted and just got the sound to work but would like to know if I can turn the volume up and a few other things
Yes Robert, I have done a video, it’s called CVs for dummies! It’s quite straightforward to turn the volume up or down, but you just need to read the decoder manual. Regards, Charlie
Challenging to chose numbers when, like this bubble car, they use the same number as more famous locos. You can expect a call from the D9002 society, asking for their number back! 😉 Thanks for those tutorial on CVs; nicely demonstrated. Regards, Tom
Chadwick Model Railway That’ll teach me for trying to be smart! 😛😉 It works better for the 55022, where the D9000 society actually exists, and D9000 got TOPS’d to 55022. KOYLI has its own Monika!
Very useful Charlie, especially since i'm just getting into dcc. Would be great to understand more about cv's though. The Prodigy 2 i use has a acceleration and deceleration cv when you set loco up, i presume this relates to the cv's your talking about. Thanks, Jon
Hi Jon, yes it seems that your controller has a short cut into CV adjustments. It must do this for each loco. I’m so pleased that you enjoyed the video. Regards Charlie
Charlie, My locos are over 40 years old and not fitted for or with DCC. I would like to invest in DCC, eventually, but to test the track I intend to use DC initially. I understand the concept of Can-bus (CBus) and dropper wires to improve running. Is it possible to run both DC and DCC on the same CBus. Thanks. I'm watching the bell, closely. Keith
Hi Charlie, love the simplicity of your videos. I use a Z21 from Roco and I still have to figure it out. Started My layout about a year and half ago, two deck system still on the bottom layer so I got a long way to go. I always look forward to your next video...Frits
Hi Charlie, I've done a post on the Hornby forum on how to get smooth running from the Hornby TTS decoder by changing CVs. Because the TTS decoders are set up for the Railroad range, I've found when fitted to high end locos, they run very rough and jerky straight from the box. There is a link to a short demo video of the results. It's under, ' Hornby dcc, how to get smooth running from TTS decoders'. It's a very low quality video done on my tablet, nothing as pro as yours, but you can see the results. Cheers, Rich.
Just what I wanted to know thanks Charlie from a novice guy who has yet to lay an inch of track. Thanks. Jus installed my first chip. One thing I'm not sure about the long and short addresses for loco id. I have entered a long address should I remove/change the short (default ?) address?
Handy guide and yes, those of us who are ‘anal’ in approach have a “manual”. Very much the same as you Charlie, I keep records appropriate to the model. As for Dynamis, some will raise their hands in horror, but I find it very useful for my needs. I only wish they had given a “wired” option - a plugin to the existing IR - as this would have helped with spurious control. As a slight aside, if I may, when programming with Bachmanns’ Dynamis some CVs can be random in their configuration, and random effects will occur in operation of Locomotive. In my case this has been due to FLAT BATTERIES or, at least, batteries (especially rechargeable ones) which have dropped below the threshold in the hand-held IR unit. Lots of fault-finding can be eliminated by just popping new batteries in! Best wishes.
Thanks Charlie I have been scared of messing with CVs and would like to learn more such as is it possible to create wheel spin on a steam engine as it pulls away from the station? I’m still new to dcc and using the NCE power cab
Don't forget that with DCC if it all goes horribly wrong and you find yourself down a rabbit hole that you can't get out of then programming CV 8 with a value of 8 will take you back to the factory settings and you can start again from scratch. With Hornby decoders it is possible to do this for sound volumes only by putting in a value of 5 instead. As for doing a reset leading to erasing the sound as well I've never heard of that one and shouldn't happen. As Charlie says in the video maybe consulting the decoder/chip manufacturer first is a wise move.
Another great video - one question, obviously if you're using the last 4 digits of a TOPs number there is a chance of conflict. If for example you own that Class 122 and a Deltic 55002 or a Hymek 35002? etc what do you do?
Hi, I’m so pleased that you enjoyed the video. Yes you’re right but that’s down to the individual to overcome. Luckily for me, Hymeks met their end before TOPS came in. Having said that, I think a couple were used by experimental units. Regards Charlie
Congratulations on a excellent channel. Both the content and presentation are excellent. If you ever get fed up with DCC, please feel free and have a look some of my live steam locomotives in Gauge 1. Keep up the good work!
Very informative as usual... just a query as i'm building an end of steam layout.. and was wondering steam sound cv's can you change the speed of the cylinder chuffs as i find when watching at exhibitions that the cylinder rate doesnt always marry up with the wheel set it always seems to be to fast like i said just a query all the best
Hi Tony, I’m so pleased that you enjoyed the video. As far as I’m aware good quality recordings do match the chuff rate. Sadly, I’m no steam expert but I’m sure there are answers to your question on other TH-cam channels. Regards Charlie
Hi Charlie. I came back to this video as I've just bought the Dapol Bubble car and was stuck with slow running only. Started converting to DCC two years ago and still can't get my head around CV's. My autism renders me useless at absorbing written information whereas I soak up visual information and spit it out Parrot fashion. Anyway got CV3 and 4 done.
Hi Charlie. Im using at the moment a ZTC controller which i have just bought 2nd hand, I do have a prodigy express as well. Anyway im finding that when i the train running and i turn controller to zero the train wants to run on a fair bit, Would you think thats to do with the cv settings??? Thanks
Yes Ken that is exactly the case. One of the CVs in the loco decoder needs to be adjusted. But as it is, it probably runs more prototypically. Regards Charlie
Hi Charlie I've watched your video on CVs and understand the basics of speed step setting what i can't do is alter the CVs using my Digitrax Zephyr DSC52. i have watch you and other people using different controllers but still can't do it. Any suggestion what i should watch?
thanks for your quick reply Charlie the problem is I bought it from a UK shop on e bay but thanks anyway i will try what you suggest the only thing was I used a 21 pin to 8 and I thought it was to do with that any way I will try again thanks again regards Andrew
Hi Charlie your videos are very helpful. Hi have one problem. Being very new to dcc I purchased a loksound v5 sound decoder for my bachmann class 47. Once fitted the sound is very very low. Instructions don't tell you too much regarding the cv to up the sound. Can you please help me with this on how to go about it. My controller is a gaugemaster dcc01 prodigy express. And like you say in your videos if your not sure don't go there.. so this is hopefully where you come in. Just to go through what I need to do to up the volume. Ie what cv number and what I need to do.. hope you can help. Any advise would be much appreciated. Thank you. All the very best Daz..
I have just watched this video - great intro to the subject, thank you, were the adjustments all made on the dynamis? And are those adjustments then compatible with other dcc operators ?
@@ChadwickModelRailway i was at Chester yesterday @ making tracks and had gone in the hope of running a couple of my bachmann class 90s but i hadn't realized that I needed these CVs adjusting beforehand - i was devastated that both the cv aspect for the 90s was wrong and also there was a problem with the Bachmann intermodal wagons as well. This was compounded by one of the team whi seemed to go out of his way to spoil it for other people, some of whom had given their time for free to help out there. I am undeterred by this and intend to get the 90s sorted - even if just to run their stock around and then adjust for the layout ops for Johnson Street IEMD.
Thank you for the impressive video on changing CV's they are very informative and helpful ,is there any chance of one on synchronizing the chuffing on sound locos please . Thanks I'm really enjoying your video's .
No I’m afraid that you’re wrong. It’s only my script/notes that you may have spotted. In a future video I will go into CVs much deeper. Regards Charlie
Very good tutorial Charlie .. but was hoping for a little more in-depth on what each CV dose .. One thing that I’ve learnt is that not all chips cover the whole spectrum of cvs .. so say a £ 15 hornby chip will only cover cvs 2-4 were as a £30 chip will give you a wider range and some functions.. by the way CV 2 is your start voltage .. CV 5 is your top speed and cv6 mid range speed .. yes please to more in-depth vids on cvs as I have a few locos that ran fine on dc but soon as I put chips in became very problematic.. I to started of with the Bachman dynamis system but found out that you can suffer from runaways with certain lighting or with flash photography with it working via infrared.. I now run with digi trax , which is much better but the down side is if it goes wrong you have to send it back to the states .. any way sorry for burbling on Keep up the good work ..
Hi James, I’m so pleased that you enjoyed the video. I didn’t want to go into too much detail as this was really a tester to see if there was much interest. The next one on CVs will be in s couple of months but much deeper. Regards Charlie
Hi Charlie Just seen this before I tried to get my head around your latest vid on this subject. A couple of things. I have a system to number my 168 I think it is now (more on the way!) . It involves the use of invisible maker pen and ultra violet torch. They are numbered 1-168. On cab roofs so non invasive and number found instantly by torch. Copy of number put on paperwork of loco together with the make and how many pins. I also keep a big note on my mobile for back up showing digital number against running number. Also have you heard of Lais decoders ? They are so cheap ! I have a problems with a few say heavy Heljans that need more grunt so use Gaugemaster or the like but on the whole retailing at £9 for 8pin and £12 for 21 pin a huge saving! Anyway learning all the time(the Kernow Warships are a bastard!) here’s to more of you excellent videos.
Sadly in this game, you get what you pay for. £9 for a DCC decoder is just too cheap, its shortcomings will be tremendous. As for the invisible marker pen, why don’t you just use the number on the side of the loco? Regards Charlie
Chadwick Model Railway I haven’t had any problems yet but will let you know if I do. I found it easier to identify the locos this way and they are instantly identifiable anywhere with the torch and usually less digits.Regards Alan
Hi, I am in the process of going back through your earlier videos, just because I must. The idea of a log book with pages for each logo is simply brilliant. That I am going to implement post haste. The sad thing is I tossed a three ring binder that would have been perfect for this about two weeks ago. Insert appropriate swear words here as suits your imagination. But I just found a very much better three ring binder from when I had a company named partly after my last name. So the railroad I am building will be officially called (insert last name) Railroad Transport Company, LLC. I even have a seal for this company, that does not exist, but I will use it to mark 'official' documents of my RR, including log pages for each loco. OK, I am loco, no doubt about that. So that sort of lets you off the hook as a far more crazy person has entered the court room. And insanity is in most countries a very fine defence. And I will say that you almost have me convinced to convert to DCC. Except that I have some fantastic Kato locos that are currently DC operated. Those I will not give up, as they are older and were manufactured in Japan before everything got moved to China. Finer running locos I have not as yet met. I have a RS-2, A RS-3 and a GP7. I am sure that someone will claim that some other locos are better, and that is fine with me. But I picked all put the RS-2 for about 35 quid. The RS-2 cost me about 92 quid. Not a bad deal at all. These engines with pulsed DC power will crawl as well as anything I have seen using DCC. But of course the pain in the keister is that I have to have isolated blocks all over the place. And quite a few switches to control those blocks. To be honest the wiring has become a bit of a nightmare. There is an open source alternative to the high cost commercial DCC systems called DCC++. It runs on Arduinos, of which I have lots of experience with and lots of boards for. So not a hardware problem at all and DCC++ along with a Java language PC controller running under Linux using a Coding IDE called 'Processing'. Let's just say I am quite proficient in Java. Not a problem there. The sticky bit is I have several curved Peco switches that are Insulfrog and I have one or two Electrofrog curved turnouts. Can I do something with Insulfrog switches in order to make them work with DCC? And what would it take to put a non-sound DCC controller into the Kato locos? I'm guessing it is easier than I think, but I have doubts. All of these locos were manufactured pre-DCC. Any thoughts/hints/advice appreciated. Please note that if I make a mess of things I will in no manner blame you for any of it. I just want your honest thoughts. So I hereby absolve you of any negative commentary either in the past, current or future. If I take the risk, the results are on me, and me alone. Cheers.
The only advice that I can give is for you to rid yorself of those curved insulfrog points. Unless all of your loco's have stay-alives, they will always cause trouble. Regards Charlie
I have a Digitrax 602D throttle with a digitrax dcs210+ base station and I've noticed that when I program an engine chip on my N scale setup it will respond by saying programming complete or something to that effect. But, when I try to program the light control chip for forward and reverse lights it says no ack response even though it has programmed my settings. Is there a way to read the programmed settings by connecting the trains with lights to a particular device or is this just how all dcc base stations work?
@@ChadwickModelRailway Oh, yes. I see that its a brand of train controller and various other dcc related products. I wonder why Google didn't make a recommendation when I was looking for controllers?
Hi Paul, I’m so pleased that you enjoyed the video. Sadly I can’t tell which is best as I don’t use ecos. I’m tending to prefer Lenz but they are more expensive! Regards Charlie
I have an ESU ECoS controller as well and I use decoders in my locos from ESU, Hornby, Broadway Limited Imports, MTH and Digitrax (and maybe a few others I can't even remember). They all work well with the ECoS, as they are supposed to, but the obvious decoder to use would be ESU ones as the controller is made by them as well. Although I am biased towards ESU as I also have one of their Lokprogrammers which lets me create sound projects for the decoders myself.
I’m sorry Gordon, but this is something I really can’t do. Firstly I’m not an engage Moadeller and I know nothing of that model its self. Perhaps you might try switching the decoder to another model and see if the defect transfers. Regards Charlie
Very good Charlie. I run Hornby Elite with Railmaster, even though your using dynamis, can you do a video showing what you do at the controller, what it shows, thanks so much for your videos.
Hi Richardson, I’m so pleased that you enjoyed the video and found it useful. I’ll do another video in a couple of months going in deeper. Regards Charlie
@@ChadwickModelRailway Hi Charlie, thanks for your reply. Sorry to hear you haven't got the room for O gauge. Never mind I will keep watching your tutorials and make out they are O gauge, after all they are all a set of wheels on 2 tracks. Thank you, Len
Hi Charlie, trying to sort the speed out on a bachmann class 101 it's got sound chip runs well but top speed is slow. I've a gaugemaster prology adv controller. Do you know what CV setting I should be looking at to increase the top speed please, many thanks ian
Hi Charlie. Thanks for the informative videos, Fantastic......I am an ex pat living in Norway and i have a dcc layout. I buy everything from the UK as i am building Penzance Station and Long Rock TMD... I have been trying to look for videos regarding peco electrofrog double slip installation, using gaugemaster soloniod point motors. I know i should buy tortoise motors, but it is a cost issue. Maybe at a later date i will change. Can you advise? Many thanks Zeb
![ILLSLICK - WINTER IS COMING [Official Video]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/dwTMeM1zIhQ/mqdefault.jpg)
Thanks Charlie. More of the same please. I’m in the process of changing to DCC and your videos have been most helpful.
I’m so pleased that you enjoyed it. Regards Charlie
The thing I like most about DCC and CV setting is that you can set each locomotive to have different characteristics from each other, thus making driving locos more enjoyable. Keith
Very true Keith. I do hope that you enjoyed the video.
@@ChadwickModelRailway I did indeed, as all your videos.
Once Again your tutorials are excellent love watching all your tutorials on TH-cam,
you are very professional the way you come across, I could listen to you all day. Keep your tutorials coming. Many thanks Brian
Thanks Brian, I’m so pleased that you enjoyed it and hopefully found it useful.
Regards Charlie
Charlie one thing your NOT is sad, I think your cleverer than you think, very impressed. Dave Hampshire
Thanks Dave for such a heartwarming comment. Best wishes for 2022,
Regards Charlie
I regularly modify CVs when the need arises and I am quite comfortable doing so, but It was a very good demonstration. I started with DCC because it give me sound which I quite enjoy. Rob
Rob, I too was brought back into the hobby by DCC sound. Don’t tell my wife about the cost! Regards Charlie
Chadwick Model Railway I shudder to think of what I’ve spent. In the 10s of thousands most certainly. Gulp
Just watched this video again Charlie and I'll adopt these tips with CV 3 & 4 on my stock. Thanks
I found them to be a lifesaver Chris. Regards Charlie
This would have been so helpful when dealing with the first shock of trying to understand an DCC I, like you, had to plunge in, commit the cash and practice faith to do what you did. It is handy to show a young lad i'm encouraging who, in enjoying this hobby, will be so much further ahead in his grasp of his future opportunities. Thanks.
Hi Austin, I’m so pleased that you enjoyed the video and good luck encouraging the young lad. We so desperately need to bring in fresh blood to our hobby. Good luck with your layout. Regards Charlie
All my fleet is DC .It would cost me a fortune to convert !!. I did stay as I enjoy your videos ..You are the Professor of Trains. Wise and full of Knowledge Thanks Mate
Thanks TL, I’m so pleased that you enjoy the videos.
Nice one on CVs Charlie 👍🏻 Yes please some more on CVs as your tutorials are very good and easy to understand. I’ve never touched mine but I’m sure I’ll have a go now.......😆 Done some more tidying up in my garage and uncovered some of my layout lol 😆 Watching your Friday videos Charlie and some others I follow like Dave class 47 Richard Everard junction is giving me the impetus to start mine again after pulling down my large layout and reducing it to a more manageable size!! I’ll post some pictures eventually. One problem is me working 6 day’s a week away from home!! Anyway Spain again this weekend as we’ve just bought a home in Sucina in the Murcia region 😊 When I return I’ll make another start on my branch line layout using some of your techniques!! Looking forward to your next weeks update cheers Stevie.
Hi Steve, I’m so pleased that you enjoyed it.
Have a great holiday and keep in touch.
Regards Charlie
It's nice in shepherd's pie but it has to be lambs!
This is the first tutorial I have actually understood, Charlie. More please!!
I’m so pleased that you enjoyed it Martin.
gordon ossy. most helpful and simple to understand NO WAFFLE! look forward to more
Thanks Gordon, I’m so pleased that you found it interesting mate. Regards Charlie
Hi Charlie, I like many others just programme in the loco numbers but not very confident to start altering other CVs. Your video is an excellent source of information. It is easier to be shown how to do it rather than reading from a book. I am feeling more confident now and will use this for future reference, Thanks for sharing, regards John.
Hi John, I’m so pleased that you enjoyed it and found it useful.
Good luck with your CVs.
Regards Charlie
Thanks for a very helpful video Charlie. I would certainly be interested to learn more from you about CV's . Your style of presentation makes things both clear and interesting.
Looking forward to seeing more.
Hi, I’m so pleased that you enjoyed the video and hopefully found it useful. Regards Charlie
Excellent Video Charlie, DCC can be very daunting for new comers, its all about reading and understanding what things do and being able to have a little time to play about with the trains until you get what you want from the Loco, i also log what i have done and use the last four digits on my Loco's :)
I’m so pleased that you enjoyed the video. Good luck with your layout. Regards Charlie
Great show Charlie ,very useful info for me as I just got into N scale model railroading and am going with DCC myself.I love all your videos and look forward to watching them (over and over again actually)
I too have a binder/list with all my locos ,much like yours( I can`t believe how many I already have) and like the chap below me said ,I think it is a must.....no doubt about that.
This indeed is a great hobby ,keep up the great work !
Hi Paul, I’m so pleased that you enjoyed the video and found it useful.
Good luck with your layout.
Regards Charlie
luv the loco register good idea, useful info on the CV s too
I’m so pleased that you found it interesting John.
Good advice Charlie. Basic and concise. Geoff. W.
Here to please Geoff
I've been a Digitrax user for 20 years after helping a friend demonstrate and sell DCC. The hardest part was convincing people they did not need to be computer literate. Geoff. W.
Good video / tutorial Charlie, thank you. Definitely not "sad", just well organised and methodical and recommended. I keep my own lists of all my model railway items to include information about the real item, such as, year of manufacture, where it was built and a picture, plus where and when I bought something and how much etc. I use this for insurance purposes and general knowledge of the loco or other item. Definitely using a list for DCC CVs otherwise I would get lost. More videos on some of these basics would be very welcome. I look forward to the next video 👍🏻
Hi David, I’m so pleased that you enjoyed the video.
Good luck with your layout.
Regards Charlie
Ah, the dark art of CV’s! Very useful info Charlie thank you. I like your organisation re the loco’s - I think I may nick that idea 😛
Hi Tase, I’m glad that you enjoyed it.
Any ideas are there for the taking.
Regards Charlie
Yes Charlie. I would like to see more about CV's. And thanks. Great video.
Thanks William, regards Charlie.
Thnaks Charlie for the excellente explanation on CV. Im new to the hobbu and I find you information extremely helpful. I see we have another hobby for me anyway in common being photography. I love your nature shots.
I’m so pleased that you enjoy the channel Thomas, and that we share at least two hobbies, regards Charlie
Hi Charlie thank you for the CV settings a great re run for me Ian
I’m so pleased that you enjoyed it Ian.
This was interesting, and I'm not even a model railroader.
It’s great to have you on-board David, regards Charlie
another great video , love the title . the art of cv,s is mindbogling ,the manufacturers dont help either,i have a bachmann class 25 with factory dcc sound and the cv list provided bears no resemblance to the cv,s ,ie list says cv 3 range 0-64 however cv3 range on the loco is 0-255 , great channel and great informative videos ,cheers mick
Hi Mick, I’m so pleased that you enjoyed the video. I too have that old Class 25 and I still love it. Regards Charlie
I think I know why there's the discrepancy. Decoder values used to be 1-64 or 0-64 or maybe 0-63. Since about 2011 they've changed to 0-255 and Bachmann hasn't updated its manuals. As 255 is about 4 times 64 then for any value they say in their instructions just multiply it by 4 and you should be getting close.
Yes thanks Charlie, you did a great job of explaining cv3&4, thanks I really appreciate it I'm new to dcc and am very interested in all I can learn, please continue the series, i will be watching them....thanks for sharing....Jack😀
Hi Jack, I’m so pleased that you found the video useful. Regards Charlie
Great Video Charlie and yes please, lets tackle more CV's. Good tip on running 128.
Barry.Devon.
Hi Barry, I’m so pleased that you enjoyed the video and found it useful, regards Charlie
Hi Charlie. I thought at first wen l heard the word ‘CV’ you’d got fed up with the video world and were applying for a new job! Lol! As a complete novice and ignoramus l knew nothing of DCC CV’s and didnt even know the word existed, but l do now thanks mate! I mean l don’t even own a train set.....oooops sorry ‘model railway layout’ so I’m listening and learning attentively and can’t wait for the day I’ve got my own layout! Obviously I’m learning DCC is the way forward and you’ve just confirmed that in your video to me. Thanks Charlie and keep your very informative videos coming please! And also it’s not sad keeping lists l think it’s called OCD and there’s plenty of medication on the market to help you with this condition! Loooooool! You won’t get many videos made once you’re taking them and they’ll be lotsa dribbling, but man oh man, you’ll be a happy dribbler! Looool!
Hi EtonieE, I’m so pleased that you enjoyed the video. OCD perhaps! Good luck with your layout. Regards Charlie
I feel that hornby railmaster makes cv setting easy as you can see all the values on the screen.
I aslo fell that is all it is good for.
I feel the same way about the Bachmann Dynamis.
Charlie, excellent video as usual. Would like to see more on CV's, but need to understand the relationships that exist between them also.
Have been a subscriber for some time now and enjoy your work. Keep it up.
Thanks Paul
I’m so pleased that you enjoyed the video Paul. I will return to CVs in a month or two and go a little deeper.
Regards Charlie
Thanks, I'll be watching
Paul
You should be a proffesional lecturer you make thing sooo logical and easy to understand
Thanks Robert, you’re too kind.
I’ve seen fellow model railroaders also advise on a ring binder or notebook with descriptions on the loco and any changes to the cv’s .
So great advice..
until next time cheers.
Hi Jim, I’m so pleased that you found the video useful. Ring binders get my vote. Regards Charlie
I for one would be very grateful for more cv info. Just spent the day trying out cv’s and totally confused. Had some info sent from Bachmann including some cv settings but that listing does not match that which comes with the Bachmann decoder. Using the Digitrax Zephyr. Thanks again Charlie Brian
Hi chuckles, yes these decoders from Bachmann can be a nightmare. Just believe the literature that came with the decoder. I will try to do a CV video in the near future. Regards Charlie
Chadwick Model Railway I totally agree now took took my loco with the Bachmann chip to a friend and he could not cure the problem. So we changed it for another later version ESU chip and managed to mostly solve the problem he seems to think it is to do with the back EMF. He has the ESU programmer so I will invest in one of those as you can see a lot more when loco connected to the PC.
Hi Charlie just found this video been trying to figure out how to make my n gauge locos at more prototypical for some time just tryed worked perfectly 👌
That’s great news Nick, regards Charlie
Hi Charlie, well done for undertaking a brief explanation of some of the most used CV's.It does seem to be a daunting thing to mess around with the settings but, like you say, note what you are doing and then you can always go back if things go pear shaped Great if you could do more and like Dragon Junction, a few at a time is the way to go. I also like calling my locos 1,2,3 etc. as modelling in N there is not a lot of hope in reading the cab side numbers!
I’m so pleased that you enjoyed the video Nick. CVs can be somewhat daunting. I’ll do another’s in a couple of months. Regards Charlie
Excellent video Charlie, very informative. Like you I log all my locos, decoders and CV changes.
Michael
Hi Michael, I’m so pleased that you enjoyed it and found it useful.
Clever minds think alike.
Regards Charlie
I would welcome more on CVs Charlie - the basic advice in 24th Aug Video was interesting and your no nonsense, clear delivery always a delight - I eagerly await your moving this often confusing area forward and hope the fog starts to lift over my layout after that - I am using the entry level Gaugemaster DCC Prodigy 1
Hi, I’m so pleased that you enjoyed the video. I’ll do another one in a couple of months, I have some research to do!
Regards Charlie
I use the black Roco Z21. Don't need to remember the loco address as all you do to select a loco is touch it's photo on the tablet.
I have one old loco where the decoder only has 14 speed steps, so if you buy a second hand loco and it doesn't move under DCC, it's always worth trying it on 14 speed steps.
I have found that changing direction instantly on my Big Boy fitted with an MRC sound decoder can confuse the decoder. So much so that it goes dead and won't move for a few days. Then it's fine again.
I use Yard Office model railroad inventory software to store the details of all my locos and rolling stock. It's a free download, but you can purchase a licence to release extra features.
Hi, I hope you enjoyed the video and found it useful. Good luck with your layout. I’ll do another video on CVs in a couple of months.
Regards Charlie
Good video Charlie, Thank you. Like others have asked, "Yes please" more on CV's would be great.
I’m so pleased that you enjoyed it Tony and I will come back to CVs.
Very interesting and helpful. I would have liked to have seen more of the use of the Dynamis controller when inputting CV’s. carry on, will await further videos on DCC matters
Hi Les, I imagine that you use a Dynamis system. I’m so pleased that you enjoyed the video and good luck with your layout. Regards Charlie
Nice demonstration of the most useful CVs. As you have used decoders, and the soundfile manufacturers have improved their art, have you found much difference between the required CV settings (even from the same soundfile team)?
It is challenging to work out what you can do with any one brand of decoder (and I include the soundfile as part of that branding). For example, one decoder (think it is South West Digital, so ESU V4) has a CV for walking speed (speed step 10) and then a chuff rate that can match that. So your loco will run at walking pace, with the chuffs arriving at the right (sort of) speed.
I can quite see why people standardise on one type of decoder, so they can learn the wrinkles and configurations for that one; but in order to do that, you have to not keep looking around at the other options available.
Thanks again for being so clear, Charlie. Regards, Tom
I’m so pleased that you enjoyed it Tom.
My pet hate is fiction numbers on sound chips. How can they, for example, have flange squeal on 9 on one and 11 on another. I have yet to look into remapping but no doubt I will in the future. Regards Charlie
Chadwick Model Railway
I love it, Charlie. Call it a Freudian slip, but fiction numbers is so much better than function numbers!
;)
I have now watched a few of your videos which are very useful, you never stop learning and picking up tips. Have you made any further videos on setting CV's particularly relating to locos that do not run to well and require CV's adjusting outside what you may normally expect?
Not yet Arnold but I will revisit CVs in time.
Thanks for your reply, look forward to watching more of your videos
Thanks. Great video which I found extremely useful. I would love to see more on the same subject. The instruction manuals just don't do it for me but your style of presentation made it easy to understand.
Hi Tony, I’m so pleased that you enjoyed it and hopefully it all made sense. Regards Charlie
Thanks for another great video, Charlie. I also dipped my toes into DCC with the Dynamis and Pro sets when i first got started, and now use Digitrax on my layout. I still use my Dynamis for my (completely separate) programming track. Great example of small changes to CVs and how they effect the loco. Thanks! Always enjoy your videos.
Hi John,
I’m so pleased that you enjoyed the video.
I too always use my Dynamis for programming as it seems far easier than the Digitrax system.
Regards Charlie
Great stuff Charlie,I never change my cv's except for the running number.........John
Go on John, be brave, give it a go!
Hello Charlie, sincere thanks for this video. I`m about to convert my locos to DCC, so I found this very interesting. When you have the time I would love to learn more on this subject. What I admire about your videos is the clear and simple way you have of explaining your subject matter...Congrats Cheers Greg
Hi Greg, I’m so pleased that you enjoyed the video and found it particularly useful. I’ll produce a more involved video in a couple of months.
Regards Charlie
Great video Charlie, by all means go into greater detail!😎🇦🇺
I’m so pleased that you enjoyed it Stephen and found it useful.
Regards Charlie
A very good video Charlie. I found some settings to do with Coupling Shuffle using my Ecos. But try as I might they wouldn't work, so still puzzled. Just wondered if you will be covering that some time please.
I’m afraid I can’t Terry, I don’t have the ecos system. Regards Charlie
Great video Charlie liked & subbed. A question if you don't mind. Do you know how I would change an unrealistic loco speed compared to the speed I set. I run a Pendolino which has a minimum speed of 10mph but this looks more like 30 or 40mph in practice.
It sounds like you need to reduce the value of CV2 Brian. Regards, Charlie
That was helpful Charlie thanks for that now forward to 2020 video
There is a later video mate.
Thanks Charlie for a really interesting & informative video.
I’m so pleased that you enjoyed it David.
hello charlie from Australia,I have recently got back into making a model railway and wow as it changed,locos that move themselves and make sounds. I recently bought a bachmann dcc ready 21 pin,bought a 21 pin to 8 pin and fitted an 8 pin sound decoder.
In my mind I thought you just plug in program the decoder with a number and hey presto the sound will work, alas not so I have a Hornby elite dcc control and I have tried to make the sounds and lights work but no go.
So my question is do I have to program the cv with numbers for different functions etc and are all functions numbers same on all decoders regards Andrew
Hi Andrew, it should work straight out of the box, but on address number three. Perhaps if you take it to the shop where you bought it they can throw some light on this. Regards Charlie
Not sad at all Charlie, I prefer to use a spreadsheet to keep all the info on each loco, cheers Paul
Hi Paul, our mutual OCD is a great reassurance! Regards Charlie
Thanks... was very good intro to cv's.... more please!
Hi John, I’m so pleased that you enjoyed the video. I’ll return to CVs in a couple of months and go a little deeper.
Regards Charlie
Your cataloguing folder is very similar to what I do. I also have a binder for all dcc decoder manuals (in particular sound). Having a backup of cvs via JMRI and lokprogrammer is also simple and valuable. Incidentally, resetting CV8 should not wipe out sound projects. It should simply reset the sound decoder to its originally-programmed state, not blank decoder state.
I’m so pleased that you enjoyed the video and I do have a sound chip which carries a reset warning hence my concern. Regards Charlie
In that case, caution is always good practice! I've never had a single problem resetting a sound chip, but if that's what the instructions say, best follow them :)
Hi Charlie saw your video of gaugemaster buffer lights you said that you can use them on dcc I use Hornby track with digital point clips to keep all my track live even when I have isolated a siding I use Hornby e-link for my controller so wondered if they would be suitable for me.
Thanks again
Kev (Beighton parkway) Sheffield Yorkshire
Yes they should work just fine Kev.
Have you done a video going in depth as I’d like to learn more especially the sound side as I’ve just bought a flying Scotsman with a zimo sound decoder fitted and just got the sound to work but would like to know if I can turn the volume up and a few other things
Yes Robert, I have done a video, it’s called CVs for dummies! It’s quite straightforward to turn the volume up or down, but you just need to read the decoder manual. Regards, Charlie
Challenging to chose numbers when, like this bubble car, they use the same number as more famous locos. You can expect a call from the D9002 society, asking for their number back! 😉
Thanks for those tutorial on CVs; nicely demonstrated. Regards, Tom
Actually Tom it’s the 5002 society that I need to worry about. Regards Charlie
Chadwick Model Railway
That’ll teach me for trying to be smart! 😛😉
It works better for the 55022, where the D9000 society actually exists, and D9000 got TOPS’d to 55022.
KOYLI has its own Monika!
Very useful Charlie, especially since i'm just getting into dcc. Would be great to understand more about cv's though. The Prodigy 2 i use has a acceleration and deceleration cv when you set loco up, i presume this relates to the cv's your talking about. Thanks, Jon
Hi Jon, yes it seems that your controller has a short cut into CV adjustments. It must do this for each loco. I’m so pleased that you enjoyed the video. Regards Charlie
Charlie,
My locos are over 40 years old and not fitted for or with DCC. I would like to invest in DCC, eventually, but to test the track I intend to use DC initially. I understand the concept of Can-bus (CBus) and dropper wires to improve running. Is it possible to run both DC and DCC on the same CBus. Thanks. I'm watching the bell, closely. Keith
Hi Keith, I’m sorry but I do not know what CBus is. I’m sure that running DC and DCC power on the same tracks, at the same time, is not possible.
Hi Charlie, love the simplicity of your videos. I use a Z21 from Roco and I still have to figure it out. Started My layout about a year and half ago, two deck system still on the bottom layer so I got a long way to go. I always look forward to your next video...Frits
Hi Frits, I’m so pleased that you enjoyed it and I hope that it all made sense. Regards Charlie
Thanks. Nicely expained. Yes please for more cv's
I’m so pleased that you enjoyed it Alan. Regards Charlie
Hi Charlie,
I've done a post on the Hornby forum on how to get smooth running from the Hornby TTS decoder by changing CVs. Because the TTS decoders are set up for the Railroad range, I've found when fitted to high end locos, they run very rough and jerky straight from the box. There is a link to a short demo video of the results. It's under, ' Hornby dcc, how to get smooth running from TTS decoders'. It's a very low quality video done on my tablet, nothing as pro as yours, but you can see the results.
Cheers, Rich.
Hi Rich,
Many thanks for the info.
Regards Charlie
Just what I wanted to know thanks Charlie from a novice guy who has yet to lay an inch of track. Thanks. Jus installed my first chip. One thing I'm not sure about the long and short addresses for loco id. I have entered a long address should I remove/change the short (default ?) address?
No Brian, if it works just leave it. Regards Charlie
Handy guide and yes, those of us who are ‘anal’ in approach have a “manual”. Very much the same as you Charlie, I keep records appropriate to the model. As for Dynamis, some will raise their hands in horror, but I find it very useful for my needs. I only wish they had given a “wired” option - a plugin to the existing IR - as this would have helped with spurious control.
As a slight aside, if I may, when programming with Bachmanns’ Dynamis some CVs can be random in their configuration, and random effects will occur in operation of Locomotive. In my case this has been due to FLAT BATTERIES or, at least, batteries (especially rechargeable ones) which have dropped below the threshold in the hand-held IR unit.
Lots of fault-finding can be eliminated by just popping new batteries in!
Best wishes.
Hi Bobby, I’m so pleased that you enjoyed the video. I moved to Digitrax many years ago but I do like the Dynamis ease of programming. Regards Charlie
Thanks Charlie I have been scared of messing with CVs and would like to learn more such as is it possible to create wheel spin on a steam engine as it pulls away from the station? I’m still new to dcc and using the NCE power cab
Hi Brian, I’m so pleased that you enjoyed the video. CVs can be a challenge so tread carefully.
Regards Charlie
Don't forget that with DCC if it all goes horribly wrong and you find yourself down a rabbit hole that you can't get out of then programming CV 8 with a value of 8 will take you back to the factory settings and you can start again from scratch. With Hornby decoders it is possible to do this for sound volumes only by putting in a value of 5 instead.
As for doing a reset leading to erasing the sound as well I've never heard of that one and shouldn't happen. As Charlie says in the video maybe consulting the decoder/chip manufacturer first is a wise move.
Another great video - one question, obviously if you're using the last 4 digits of a TOPs number there is a chance of conflict. If for example you own that Class 122 and a Deltic 55002 or a Hymek 35002? etc what do you do?
Hi, I’m so pleased that you enjoyed the video. Yes you’re right but that’s down to the individual to overcome. Luckily for me, Hymeks met their end before TOPS came in. Having said that, I think a couple were used by experimental units.
Regards Charlie
Congratulations on a excellent channel. Both the content and presentation are excellent.
If you ever get fed up with DCC, please feel free and have a look some of my live steam locomotives in Gauge 1.
Keep up the good work!
Thanks Phil, I’m so pleased that you enjoyed it. Please leave the link to your channel. Regards Charlie
Very informative as usual... just a query as i'm building an end of steam layout.. and was wondering steam sound cv's can you change the speed of the cylinder chuffs as i find when watching at exhibitions that the cylinder rate doesnt always marry up with the wheel set it always seems to be to fast like i said just a query all the best
Hi Tony, I’m so pleased that you enjoyed the video.
As far as I’m aware good quality recordings do match the chuff rate.
Sadly, I’m no steam expert but I’m sure there are answers to your question on other TH-cam channels.
Regards Charlie
Hi Charlie. I came back to this video as I've just bought the Dapol Bubble car and was stuck with slow running only. Started converting to DCC two years ago and still can't get my head around CV's. My autism renders me useless at absorbing written information whereas I soak up visual information and spit it out Parrot fashion. Anyway got CV3 and 4 done.
I'm so pleased that you found it usful Tony.
Thanks Charlie that is very informative and helpful
Thanks Kevin, I’m so pleased that you enjoyed it.
Hi Charlie. Im using at the moment a ZTC controller which i have just bought 2nd hand, I do have a prodigy express as well. Anyway im finding that when i the train running and i turn controller to zero the train wants to run on a fair bit, Would you think thats to do with the cv settings??? Thanks
Yes Ken that is exactly the case. One of the CVs in the loco decoder needs to be adjusted. But as it is, it probably runs more prototypically. Regards Charlie
Hi Charlie I've watched your video on CVs and understand the basics of speed step setting what i can't do is alter the CVs using my Digitrax Zephyr DSC52. i have watch you and other people using different controllers but still can't do it. Any suggestion what i should watch?
Sorry Chris, I can’t help you on that one. What I suggest you do is post this question on the Digitrax Facebook page. Regards Charlie
@@ChadwickModelRailway Thanks Charley i am getting there at 74 next week things take a bit longer. Regards Chris
thanks for your quick reply Charlie the problem is I bought it from a UK shop on e bay but thanks anyway i will try what you suggest the only thing was I used a 21 pin to 8 and I thought it was to do with that any way I will try again thanks again
regards Andrew
Can you fit the 8 pin into another loco to test it?
Hi Charlie your videos are very helpful.
Hi have one problem. Being very new to dcc I purchased a loksound v5 sound decoder for my bachmann class 47. Once fitted the sound is very very low. Instructions don't tell you too much regarding the cv to up the sound. Can you please help me with this on how to go about it. My controller is a gaugemaster dcc01 prodigy express. And like you say in your videos if your not sure don't go there.. so this is hopefully where you come in. Just to go through what I need to do to up the volume. Ie what cv number and what I need to do.. hope you can help. Any advise would be much appreciated. Thank you. All the very best Daz..
Hi Daz,
It should be CV63.
The max volume is 192.
Try 120 to start with.
Regards Charlie
Thank you Charlie. Regards Daz..
I have just watched this video - great intro to the subject, thank you, were the adjustments all made on the dynamis? And are those adjustments then compatible with other dcc operators ?
Yes I believe so and yes all controllers will read the changes.
@@ChadwickModelRailway i was at Chester yesterday @ making tracks and had gone in the hope of running a couple of my bachmann class 90s but i hadn't realized that I needed these CVs adjusting beforehand - i was devastated that both the cv aspect for the 90s was wrong and also there was a problem with the Bachmann intermodal wagons as well. This was compounded by one of the team whi seemed to go out of his way to spoil it for other people, some of whom had given their time for free to help out there. I am undeterred by this and intend to get the 90s sorted - even if just to run their stock around and then adjust for the layout ops for Johnson Street IEMD.
Stick with it JS.
Thanks again Charlie!! Regards Onno.
I’m so pleased that you enjoyed it Onno and hopefully it all made sense. Regards Charlie
Thank you for the impressive video on changing CV's they are very informative and helpful ,is there any chance of one on synchronizing the chuffing on sound locos please . Thanks I'm really enjoying your video's .
It’s something that I have never looked into but I’ll do some research.
@@ChadwickModelRailway Thank you ,I look forward to any help on this ,T.
Very helpful , Thanks Charlie.
I’m so pleased that you found it useful. Regards Charlie
I see you list of CV is in what appears to be a Access report. What do you keep all your info on ?
No I’m afraid that you’re wrong. It’s only my script/notes that you may have spotted. In a future video I will go into CVs much deeper.
Regards Charlie
OK, thought the one on the front of the binder was an Access report. My Bad.
Very good tutorial Charlie .. but was hoping for a little more in-depth on what each CV dose ..
One thing that I’ve learnt is that not all chips cover the whole spectrum of cvs .. so say a £ 15 hornby chip will only cover cvs 2-4 were as a £30 chip will give you a wider range and some functions..
by the way CV 2 is your start voltage .. CV 5 is your top speed and cv6 mid range speed ..
yes please to more in-depth vids on cvs as I have a few locos that ran fine on dc but soon as I put chips in became very problematic..
I to started of with the Bachman dynamis system but found out that you can suffer from runaways with certain lighting or with flash photography with it working via infrared.. I now run with digi trax , which is much better but the down side is if it goes wrong you have to send it back to the states ..
any way sorry for burbling on
Keep up the good work ..
Hi James, I’m so pleased that you enjoyed the video.
I didn’t want to go into too much detail as this was really a tester to see if there was much interest.
The next one on CVs will be in s couple of months but much deeper.
Regards Charlie
Hi Charlie
Just seen this before I tried to get my head around your latest vid on this subject. A couple of things. I have a system to number my 168 I think it is now (more on the way!) . It involves the use of invisible maker pen and ultra violet torch. They are numbered 1-168. On cab roofs so non invasive and number found instantly by torch. Copy of number put on paperwork of loco together with the make and how many pins. I also keep a big note on my mobile for back up showing digital number against running number. Also have you heard of Lais decoders ? They are so cheap ! I have a problems with a few say heavy Heljans that need more grunt so use Gaugemaster or the like but on the whole retailing at £9 for 8pin and £12 for 21 pin a huge saving! Anyway learning all the time(the Kernow Warships are a bastard!) here’s to more of you excellent videos.
Sadly in this game, you get what you pay for. £9 for a DCC decoder is just too cheap, its shortcomings will be tremendous.
As for the invisible marker pen, why don’t you just use the number on the side of the loco? Regards Charlie
Chadwick Model Railway
I haven’t had any problems yet but will let you know if I do. I found it easier to identify the locos this way and they are instantly identifiable anywhere with the torch and usually less digits.Regards Alan
Hi Charlie very good video very educational J
I’m so pleased that you enjoyed it. Regards Charlie
Configuration variables I now understand, right ? So just the settings of a decoder you can change ?
That’s it, you’ve hit the nail on the head
@@ChadwickModelRailway 🤓
Hi,
I am in the process of going back through your earlier videos, just because I must. The idea of a log book with pages for each logo is simply brilliant. That I am going to implement post haste. The sad thing is I tossed a three ring binder that would have been perfect for this about two weeks ago. Insert appropriate swear words here as suits your imagination.
But I just found a very much better three ring binder from when I had a company named partly after my last name. So the railroad I am building will be officially called (insert last name) Railroad Transport Company, LLC. I even have a seal for this company, that does not exist, but I will use it to mark 'official' documents of my RR, including log pages for each loco. OK, I am loco, no doubt about that. So that sort of lets you off the hook as a far more crazy person has entered the court room. And insanity is in most countries a very fine defence.
And I will say that you almost have me convinced to convert to DCC. Except that I have some fantastic Kato locos that are currently DC operated. Those I will not give up, as they are older and were manufactured in Japan before everything got moved to China. Finer running locos I have not as yet met. I have a RS-2, A RS-3 and a GP7. I am sure that someone will claim that some other locos are better, and that is fine with me. But I picked all put the RS-2 for about 35 quid. The RS-2 cost me about 92 quid. Not a bad deal at all. These engines with pulsed DC power will crawl as well as anything I have seen using DCC. But of course the pain in the keister is that I have to have isolated blocks all over the place. And quite a few switches to control those blocks. To be honest the wiring has become a bit of a nightmare.
There is an open source alternative to the high cost commercial DCC systems called DCC++. It runs on Arduinos, of which I have lots of experience with and lots of boards for. So not a hardware problem at all and DCC++ along with a Java language PC controller running under Linux using a Coding IDE called 'Processing'. Let's just say I am quite proficient in Java. Not a problem there. The sticky bit is I have several curved Peco switches that are Insulfrog and I have one or two Electrofrog curved turnouts. Can I do something with Insulfrog switches in order to make them work with DCC? And what would it take to put a non-sound DCC controller into the Kato locos? I'm guessing it is easier than I think, but I have doubts. All of these locos were manufactured pre-DCC.
Any thoughts/hints/advice appreciated. Please note that if I make a mess of things I will in no manner blame you for any of it. I just want your honest thoughts. So I hereby absolve you of any negative commentary either in the past, current or future. If I take the risk, the results are on me, and me alone.
Cheers.
The only advice that I can give is for you to rid yorself of those curved insulfrog points.
Unless all of your loco's have stay-alives, they will always cause trouble.
Regards Charlie
@@ChadwickModelRailway Great advice, thanks mate.
Thanks for doing this video Charlie it was really interesting and helpful. Susannah
I’m so pleased that you enjoyed it Susannah, regards Charlie
I have a Digitrax 602D throttle with a digitrax dcs210+ base station and I've noticed that when I program an engine chip on my N scale setup it will respond by saying programming complete or something to that effect. But, when I try to program the light control chip for forward and reverse lights it says no ack response even though it has programmed my settings. Is there a way to read the programmed settings by connecting the trains with lights to a particular device or is this just how all dcc base stations work?
I'm sorry Pete, but I have no idea. I do all my programming off of the layout with an ESU programmer.
Regards Charlie
@@ChadwickModelRailway I'm curious what is an esu programmer?
@@fourbypete check out the ESU Website.
@@ChadwickModelRailway Oh, yes. I see that its a brand of train controller and various other dcc related products. I wonder why Google didn't make a recommendation when I was looking for controllers?
05:19 - The mind boggles! 😳🙄😂
I’m sure that it will become even more complex John.
@@ChadwickModelRailway 👍. By the way Charlie, love your channel!
Thanks, Charlie. You will know Cambus or Cbus as Bus wire.
Now I understand.
Hi another great knowledgeable video extremely helpful if I may ask what doc decoder is the best to use as I use a ecos controller
Hi Paul, I’m so pleased that you enjoyed the video. Sadly I can’t tell which is best as I don’t use ecos. I’m tending to prefer Lenz but they are more expensive! Regards Charlie
I have an ESU ECoS controller as well and I use decoders in my locos from ESU, Hornby, Broadway Limited Imports, MTH and Digitrax (and maybe a few others I can't even remember). They all work well with the ECoS, as they are supposed to, but the obvious decoder to use would be ESU ones as the controller is made by them as well.
Although I am biased towards ESU as I also have one of their Lokprogrammers which lets me create sound projects for the decoders myself.
is it possible to go through reprog lights on a 150. n gauge, have a model after replacement motor only have reds (ps this is a sound set)
I’m sorry Gordon, but this is something I really can’t do. Firstly I’m not an engage Moadeller and I know nothing of that model its self. Perhaps you might try switching the decoder to another model and see if the defect transfers. Regards Charlie
Very good Charlie. I run Hornby Elite with Railmaster, even though your using dynamis, can you do a video showing what you do at the controller, what it shows, thanks so much for your videos.
Hi Richardson, I’m so pleased that you enjoyed the video and found it useful.
I’ll do another video in a couple of months going in deeper.
Regards Charlie
Hi charlie i would like to some tutorials on o gauge also i love your tutorials are top of the class regards len. ps thank you.
Hi Leonard,
I’m so sorry but I don’t Model in O.
As much as I’d like to, I just haven’t got the space (or cash)!
@@ChadwickModelRailway Hi Charlie, thanks for your reply. Sorry to hear you haven't got the room for O gauge. Never mind I will keep watching your tutorials and make out they are O gauge, after all they are all a set of wheels on 2 tracks. Thank you, Len
Hi Charlie, trying to sort the speed out on a bachmann class 101 it's got sound chip runs well but top speed is slow.
I've a gaugemaster prology adv controller.
Do you know what CV setting I should be looking at to increase the top speed please, many thanks ian
255 is the Fastest value for CV 5.
Read your value first and write it down.
Then adjust until you’re happy.
I'm going to download your videos if you dont mind? too keep a reference as they're so helpful!
You could always add them to your “Watch Later” list. They will always be there and that saves your disc space.
Regards Charlie
Helpful video, keep doing this.
I’m so pleased that you enjoyed it.
I do the same, Charlie, I keep all in a binder. I use ECoS. Would like some more.
Clever minds think alike Nigel. Regards Charlie
was a useful video ..thanks bud
I’m so pleased that you enjoyed it Kezza.
Hi Charlie - not so much a dark art - more like fifty shades of grey ...
We are coming out of the dark ages. I’m so pleased that you enjoyed it.
I have tried that but same result loco moves when comanded but no lights or sound a bit confusing maybe I am 2 old for all this new stuff lol
So sorry Andrew.
Hi Charlie. Thanks for the informative videos, Fantastic......I am an ex pat living in Norway and i have a dcc layout. I buy everything from the UK as i am building Penzance Station and Long Rock TMD... I have been trying to look for videos regarding peco electrofrog double slip installation, using gaugemaster soloniod point motors. I know i should buy tortoise motors, but it is a cost issue. Maybe at a later date i will change. Can you advise? Many thanks Zeb
Hi Zeb, try Everard Junction’s back catalogue.
Ok Many thanks