thanks for video Dale . i watch you videos over and over to make sure i reassemble in proper order. they are so helpful.my tc100 is not exactly the same but close.
Thanks again John. The way I have always installed the clutch push rods are as follows. Flat end in first for the two long rods inside the engine, that way a round end fits to a flat end to let it piviot easier. The adjuster screw inside the left side case is also flat so it fits to a round end on the first long rod. Really its just flat end to round end all the way thru. How is your parts situation? Get them all from overseas I hope. Hows your build proceeding? Thanks again for watching my videos, hope they are helpful.
@@montana2strokeracer Hi Dale yes i have parts I got my crank run out to .001 on one side and .0025 on other side I did not have that hole in crank like you so I took straight edge and small file to scribe a line on crank which was helpful to line back up in reassembling . I made measurements like you Mine was about 20 thousands between washers on crank and I also made that other measurement on crank you did with veneers.so when I pressed in rod i keep checking with veneers. i never got to my measurement because rod got tight so i guess my new washers or bottom of rod was a little bigger so i backed of on it until 19 thousands on my feeler guage and left it there .My transmision is all back together and finished clutch side of motor Like i said your videos are very helpful thanks
@@johncasertano1687 Thats great, sounds like your making more progress than me. I did notice that the new crank washers were .004 thicker than the old ones on mine. my over all crank size was about .008 wider. But thats not enough to worry about. Nice to hear you are getting her back together.
You're a god damn saint. I had to take off the reduction shifting cover on my tc120 to work on the stator and was an idiot and didn't take any pictures of how the reduction shifter was assembled. The exploded parts diagram isn't particularly helpful, but this is exactly what I needed! EDIT: any tips for removing the Shifting lever? Mine is in there really good and isn't budging, I don't want to damage anything trying to get it out.
Hey you might try wedging a screwdriver in the slot of the lever after removing the bolt of course. Try to spread it apart a little bit while wiggling the lever and pulling straight out. Glad my videos help folks, good luck with the lever and thanks for watchin.
@@montana2strokeracer thanks! It was slow going at first but that worked for me. Just got back from my test ride and everything works great now. When I first got the bike it had been sitting so long the piston was seized and the shifter wouldn't even budge
Do you happen to have a part number for that clutch spring? Mine is mangled and I've checked Babbitts and a few other places and don't even see it listed.
Dale i cant seem to locate the stepped part with the rubber grommet and the one screw . on the bottom. i have the metal stepped part but the grommet is missing, any way to DIY a rubber grommet?
i knew i was going to have a hard time explaining the exact part, its at the 5:40 mark on the video. the small tab with the rubber insert you said was original but in good condition. i found mine but its not so good. think before i try to fix i,t i would see what you might do. thanks Dale
Hi Frank, I believe most are aware. I have had several comments about the fact that I use them. You are so right the screws will not last if not used. At up to 10.00 dollars a screw it's very important to me. Thanks for commenting and watchin.
@@frankdillon6127 Thanks for the kind words, Frank. She's a pretty smart lady. Who would have thought there was this much interest in these old bikes. Just glad the videos are of some help to those maintaining the old bikes. Thanks for watchin.
Good stuff thanks for sharing brother
thanks for video Dale . i watch you videos over and over to make sure i reassemble in proper order. they are so helpful.my tc100 is not exactly the same but close.
Thanks again John. The way I have always installed the clutch push rods are as follows. Flat end in first for the two long rods inside the engine, that way a round end fits to a flat end to let it piviot easier. The adjuster screw inside the left side case is also flat so it fits to a round end on the first long rod. Really its just flat end to round end all the way thru.
How is your parts situation? Get them all from overseas I hope. Hows your build proceeding? Thanks again for watching my videos, hope they are helpful.
@@montana2strokeracer Hi Dale yes i have parts I got my crank run out to .001 on one side and .0025 on other side I did not have that hole in crank like you so I took straight edge and small file to scribe a line on crank which was helpful to line back up in reassembling . I made measurements like you Mine was about 20 thousands between washers on crank and I also made that other measurement on crank you did with veneers.so when I pressed in rod i keep checking with veneers. i never got to my measurement because rod got tight so i guess my new washers or bottom of rod was a little bigger so i backed of on it until 19 thousands on my feeler guage and left it there .My transmision is all back together and finished clutch side of motor Like i said your videos are very helpful thanks
@@johncasertano1687 Thats great, sounds like your making more progress than me. I did notice that the new crank washers were .004 thicker than the old ones on mine. my over all crank size was about .008 wider. But thats not enough to worry about. Nice to hear you are getting her back together.
Thanks mate.
Cheers, Peter.
Thanks again, I can always count on you to be here.
You're a god damn saint. I had to take off the reduction shifting cover on my tc120 to work on the stator and was an idiot and didn't take any pictures of how the reduction shifter was assembled. The exploded parts diagram isn't particularly helpful, but this is exactly what I needed! EDIT: any tips for removing the Shifting lever? Mine is in there really good and isn't budging, I don't want to damage anything trying to get it out.
Hey you might try wedging a screwdriver in the slot of the lever after removing the bolt of course. Try to spread it apart a little bit while wiggling the lever and pulling straight out. Glad my videos help folks, good luck with the lever and thanks for watchin.
@@montana2strokeracer thanks! It was slow going at first but that worked for me. Just got back from my test ride and everything works great now. When I first got the bike it had been sitting so long the piston was seized and the shifter wouldn't even budge
That's great. Good job.
Do you happen to have a part number for that clutch spring? Mine is mangled and I've checked Babbitts and a few other places and don't even see it listed.
Yeah, it same for almost every Suzuki of that era. 09443-08001
@@montana2strokeracer Thank you very much.
You bet
Dale i cant seem to locate the stepped part with the rubber grommet and the one screw . on the bottom. i have the metal stepped part but the grommet is missing, any way to DIY a rubber grommet?
Not sure what parts you are referring to.
i knew i was going to have a hard time explaining the exact part, its at the 5:40 mark on the video. the small tab with the rubber insert you said was original but in good condition. i found mine but its not so good. think before i try to fix i,t i would see what you might do. thanks Dale
HI, Dale would hope your viewers are aware of the importance of using only JIS type Philips screw drivers. ( Japanese Industry standard).
Hi Frank, I believe most are aware. I have had several comments about the fact that I use them. You are so right the screws will not last if not used. At up to 10.00 dollars a screw it's very important to me. Thanks for commenting and watchin.
thanks to your wife for suggesting that a old guy is very much worth watching ,your a wizard to many. @@montana2strokeracer
@@frankdillon6127 Thanks for the kind words, Frank. She's a pretty smart lady. Who would have thought there was this much interest in these old bikes. Just glad the videos are of some help to those maintaining the old bikes. Thanks for watchin.