BEST CLIMBING SHOES EXPLAINED- Which climbing shoes are right for you? Scarpa Drago, Furia S and VSR

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  • เผยแพร่เมื่อ 28 มิ.ย. 2024
  • Hey guys,
    These are the 3 shoes I use right now:
    Scarpa Drago, Scarpa VSR and Scarpa Furia S
    These suit intermediate to advanced climbers only.
    Follow me on Instagram @anna.davey
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ความคิดเห็น • 157

  • @AW-po7jr
    @AW-po7jr 4 ปีที่แล้ว +1

    Thanks for the recommendation, i got a Drago, very happy about the purchase!

    • @AnnaDavey
      @AnnaDavey  4 ปีที่แล้ว

      Awesome 🙌

  • @americanman6347
    @americanman6347 4 ปีที่แล้ว +1

    I just bought my first pair of climbing shoes and I could've bought any brand but I ended up getting Scarpa Origins because they were the most comfortable shoe I tried on. I hope I progress enough that I can get to buy one of these pairs. Glad I found your channel

    • @AnnaDavey
      @AnnaDavey  4 ปีที่แล้ว +1

      Great pick for a first shoe!! Always go with your gut feeling. You will know when it's time to progress 🥰 Thank you!!

  • @juleswulms629
    @juleswulms629 5 ปีที่แล้ว +1

    I went through a beginner shoe, and Vapor V before I decided that I wanted something more advanced. My gym had the Instinct VS and SR, and since I wanted to try a softer shoe I went with the SR. VS and SR felt very similar to me, but seeing Anna compare the Drago/Furia S with VSR made me realize that the toe patch on SR looks quite like the Drago/Furia S toe rubber. Might be something to consider if you are climb in a gym/comp style boulders a lot and you do a lot of toe hooks, the SR is worth considering (if you don't mind wearing a slipper over a slipper/velcro combo.

    • @AnnaDavey
      @AnnaDavey  5 ปีที่แล้ว

      The toes definitely a bit stiffer but works really well. Thanks for your input 😍

  • @rikvdmark
    @rikvdmark 4 ปีที่แล้ว

    Nice, thanks Anna. I'm starting to get into V4 boulders myself and noticed pretty soon that it's time for new shoes :)
    Probably going for the Furia S

    • @oceannash3746
      @oceannash3746 4 ปีที่แล้ว +1

      nah dude i would recommend the vapour V. I have heard that the furia S don't last that long only 3 months in the gym. I climb V6 and still use the vapours. they last long, they are comfortable and they are technical as well.

    • @MrPandaAdmin
      @MrPandaAdmin 4 ปีที่แล้ว

      ocean nash what about dragos?

  • @driklol
    @driklol 5 ปีที่แล้ว +4

    I love the Drago's , fit great and feel amazing when the rubber warms up , Can honestly say I have no intention on getting any other brand. Tried Solutions before these, liked them but the construction of the strap and eyelit really disappointed me as they both failed after a couple months , Trying to get them repaired or replaced was an incredible hassle.

    • @AnnaDavey
      @AnnaDavey  5 ปีที่แล้ว

      Drago's will always be my go to aswell! 😁

  • @philipmack5668
    @philipmack5668 5 ปีที่แล้ว +3

    I’ve got some Vs... only had them a couple months but i love them and they’ve definitely help me improve, and bump me up a couple of grades. Before i just had the beginner helix, which were comfy as hell but limited

    • @AnnaDavey
      @AnnaDavey  5 ปีที่แล้ว +2

      That's a a nice upgrade 😁

  • @TenMinuteKQL
    @TenMinuteKQL 5 ปีที่แล้ว +3

    I just bought the VS, first time with Scarpas. Excited to try them out, and I'll see how many volumes I can skate off of!

    • @AnnaDavey
      @AnnaDavey  5 ปีที่แล้ว

      😆😆 good luck

    • @yoavrodoy3593
      @yoavrodoy3593 3 ปีที่แล้ว

      Get ready for great performance and also great pain🤣

  • @philipppuchner1115
    @philipppuchner1115 4 ปีที่แล้ว

    Hey Anna, what about the Chimeras?
    They should be a little bit wider in the forefoot and the plastic insert under the outsole is a little bit larger than the one in the Drago. Also laces, to cinch down the shoe onto your foot.
    Having tried on nearly every newer Scarpa climbing shoe, i can absolutely confirm this.
    ALL newer Scarpa climbing shoes fit the same and are perfect for me in -1,5 EU from footsize (i don't use the term "streetshoe size", since street shoes vary also in size and people often wear them in the "wrong" size (f.e. too large), so the only thing important is you actual foot size - doesn't matter what other shoes people wear).
    Except Boostic, this one is a whole EU size shorter than all the other newer Scarpa climbing shoes (there is a comparison between a Instinct VS and a Boostic in the same size - The Boostic is a whole size shorter).
    The Drago is a little bit too narrow for me in the forefoot and i have no dedication to wear them in. The Chimera fits perfectly! Also the Furia S. Seems like the Drago is a tiny bit narrower in the forefoot.
    Also I like the laces more. My foot is medium width (I suppose), they have a low instep, have a high Arch and i have very small heels, so nearly every climbing shoe has too big heels for me, especially most heels in La Sportiva climbing shoes. That's probably why The Scarpa Chimera, the Furia S (which i don't own) and the new 2019 Vapor V (blue/yellow) fit me quite well.
    Of course the heel could still be even lower volume, but they are ok.
    Compared to the new Stix and the new Mago, where i can press with my thump 1cm deep into the heel of the shoe before i touch my own heel (from any angle!) - worst heel ever, on par with the old Sportiva Testarossa - their heels are very good! :)
    Ballon heels where in addition to my heel there is space for gallons of water are Solution (worst climbing shoe ever!) and Skwama.
    Way better is the Skwama Women's, because the heel has approx the size of the Otaki. Which are ok, but firm enough, that the little dead space don't ruin your heel hooks.
    Back to the Chimeras: What are your thoughts about them? Is it the case, that just because of the laces, climbers, especially lazy Boulderers, are incurious about them?
    In world cups, you see at least Sean McColl and Ekaterina Kipriianova climbing in Chimeras. Due to the Scarpa guy, Nathan, the Chimeras are the most complex (8? panel design) climbing shoes out there. Which explains the price (160€ UVP/MSRP).
    Since the Chimeras should have a tiny bit more "support" than the Dragos, because of the larger plastic insert, they should be a little bit better suited for sports climbing. At least indoors, because for very small footholds outdoors they are simply way too soft. I mean more like vertical to very slightly overhanging walls, where you would most probably aim for a edging weapon like Scarpa Instinct Lace, a Mago or a good old Sportiva Miura VS.
    For me as a 80kg climber, the Chimeras are saved as an indoor comp bouldering weapon exclusively. Way too soft for anything else and would get ruined way too quickly doing anything else in them.
    Funny, due to the Scarpa guys the Furia Air is very soft, yes, but should have more stability and therefore are also suited for routes, and not just comp style or friction Boulders.
    What's your opinion about all this? :)

  • @SnowmansApartment
    @SnowmansApartment 4 ปีที่แล้ว

    Thank you!^_^
    I‘m currently climbing V4 and projecting V5.. Already noticed that my beginner shoes just won‘t stick on some tiny food holds and volumes..
    Scarpa is going to come to our gym next week, where we can try them on and test them in the gym before buying 😁✌️ i‘ll see how i like the Furia and Drago!
    can‘t wait to finally be able to use those tiny food holds and volumes!!!🙊

    • @AnnaDavey
      @AnnaDavey  4 ปีที่แล้ว

      Yessss try them all and see what works for you 😁

  • @kaisu7259
    @kaisu7259 5 ปีที่แล้ว

    I've tried the dragos and furias so many times in the shops and never liked the feel and fit of them. Then the scarpa rock demo happened, and I got to test a pair of dragos that were already broken in, and ohmygod they felt incredible. Kind of like a rubber power sock. Definitely gonna pick up a pair next time!

    • @AnnaDavey
      @AnnaDavey  5 ปีที่แล้ว +1

      Haha rubber power sock! Love that!! Yes you have to get past the initial 2 week break in :o

  • @Leavoh
    @Leavoh 4 ปีที่แล้ว +1

    Thank you! Now I know what to buy. Anyway, you are the reason I go buy these recommended shoos, you should make affiliation links where people can buy them, so you actually make something from these.

    • @AnnaDavey
      @AnnaDavey  4 ปีที่แล้ว

      Hope your love them! Yea if only! It's a bit tricky with Scarpa as they are sold by distribution companies around the world and I'm only linked to one her in Australia so if wouldn't quite work. Glad I could help though ❤️

  • @auntree
    @auntree 2 ปีที่แล้ว +1

    Hey Anna, amazing and informative video! i recently just purchased a pair of Drago’s online. Ive been climbing for about 2 months now. I can do v4’s and some v5’s. and wanted a better shoe. My question is does the first couple of wears hurt? It takes me a while to put the shoe on and when i have then on, i can’t bend my toes upward. They’re sort of stuck in that pointed position. Will they stretch over time? Im a street size 41.5 and i got them in a 40.5 my last climbing shoes were the La Sportiva Finales in a 41.

    • @AnnaDavey
      @AnnaDavey  2 ปีที่แล้ว

      Yes they're horribly uncomfortable for about 4 weeks, try preserve. That's a rough downsize for a first pair though. La Sportivas are quite different in sizing. Scarpas run smaller. 1/2-1 under street would be enough to begin with.

  • @MinorLinx
    @MinorLinx 5 ปีที่แล้ว +1

    New camera and microphone... Verry nice indeed. good upgrade

    • @AnnaDavey
      @AnnaDavey  5 ปีที่แล้ว

      First time using it 😄

  • @lyubomirbonev2539
    @lyubomirbonev2539 5 ปีที่แล้ว +5

    Hey, Anna. I've been climbing with the Dragos for almost 6 months now and in the beginning they felt amazing, was able to significantly increase my grade with almost a whole 1 (V X+1), but the problem now is that I can't hold a hook, like, at all. Toe hooks tend to hurt a lot, since I guess the shoes got smaller and the pain is a bitch now, the other problem is the heel hook, the shoe always slips out. So, in the front and on the sides they are tight, and I mean hella tight, but on the heel, to be honest I feel like my heel doesn't even touch the sole, which is really weird. How do you think I can fix the problem ? Socks dont work at all, at the front gets even tighter eventho heel feels better. I've tried putting some fabric in the shoe so my heel touches the sole, but still it doesn't tend to work. Suggestions?

    • @AnnaDavey
      @AnnaDavey  5 ปีที่แล้ว +4

      It sounds like the shoe really juts doesn't suit your foot unfortunately 😟 I don't have this problem. Next pair I think you should try on some different styles , perhaps the Furia S and the heel feels better to me and they are way comfier so you could even downsize more. Sometimes unfortunately Scarpas just don't suit a particular foot shape though and that's when you need to try other options 😩

    • @lyubomirbonev2539
      @lyubomirbonev2539 5 ปีที่แล้ว +1

      @@AnnaDavey love the reply, thank you, have a blessed day

  • @jobless5189
    @jobless5189 2 ปีที่แล้ว +1

    Thanks for this video very informational

    • @AnnaDavey
      @AnnaDavey  2 ปีที่แล้ว +1

      My pleasure

  • @SuperBodley
    @SuperBodley 5 ปีที่แล้ว +11

    Beginner to intermediate, and comfort. I can recommend Scarpa Vapor V

    • @AnnaDavey
      @AnnaDavey  5 ปีที่แล้ว +1

      Great suggestion 🥰

    • @Adam_Wheeler
      @Adam_Wheeler 3 ปีที่แล้ว +1

      New climbers would burn through vapour v's in weeks with poor footwork

    • @mrnijacatzz
      @mrnijacatzz 3 ปีที่แล้ว +1

      @@Adam_Wheeler bit of an exaggeration there m8

    • @Adam_Wheeler
      @Adam_Wheeler 3 ปีที่แล้ว +1

      @@mrnijacatzz They do have pretty thin rubber and new climbers tend to scrape there feet on the wall alot. They wouldent last long at all.

    • @mrnijacatzz
      @mrnijacatzz 3 ปีที่แล้ว

      @@Adam_Wheeler A few weeks is what like max 9 sessions for a beginner. Are you saying they will destroy the shoes in that time frame?

  • @conserve_climber
    @conserve_climber 5 ปีที่แล้ว +1

    Thanks for the review. So you “would” use the Dragos for outdoor boulders? And indoor as well of course. And general outdoor is the Futura?

    • @AnnaDavey
      @AnnaDavey  5 ปีที่แล้ว

      If I was going for a outdoor send I would use Drago. If I was juts warming up etc I would use VSR or VS

    • @christopherdavidhall
      @christopherdavidhall 4 ปีที่แล้ว

      I love the drago for roofs, friction slabs and sansdtone but they're way too soft for everything else. So depends what you're doing really 🤔

  • @rhian2033
    @rhian2033 4 ปีที่แล้ว +1

    Nice comparison video.
    I climbed 20 years ago in Scarpa Brio boots - climbing consistent 21's in gyms and outdoors. (Even smashed Dramp on a top rope at Mt Arapiles which was a 22 back then)
    I'm looking at getting back into the gym.
    Would you have any suggestions for a shoe for a returning climber?

    • @AnnaDavey
      @AnnaDavey  4 ปีที่แล้ว

      The Vapor V would be great!

    • @rhian2033
      @rhian2033 4 ปีที่แล้ว +1

      I ended up getting a pair of Scarpa Mago and found a pair of new furia 80's in my size. Thanks heaps for your thoughts!

  • @MrApetape
    @MrApetape 5 ปีที่แล้ว +1

    dragos are super good, got mine for 90€ what is pretty amazing. Really nice shoe! Just keep on looking for sales

  • @ABSVabeautifulsunsetvlog
    @ABSVabeautifulsunsetvlog 4 ปีที่แล้ว +1

    Hey Anna, do you wear the same size in all of these? I wear a 41.5 in the VS/VSR and just ordered the furia air in a 41 and am curious whether or not that was the right move?

  • @djretr09
    @djretr09 3 ปีที่แล้ว +1

    hey anna! i have a pair of vsr's and have a booster s as well! my booster s rubbers will be worn out soon. would you recommend upgrading to a drago/furia s insteas of getting them resoled or should i just go for resole services?

    • @AnnaDavey
      @AnnaDavey  3 ปีที่แล้ว +1

      I personally find VSR and Booster too stiff for modern Bouldering today. If they're still in condition and you don't mind the stiffness though have them resoled and ask them for softer rubber 🤩 But I would suggest trying Drago or Furia S soon if you climb on lots of new style routes with volumes etc

  • @williamgailloux6353
    @williamgailloux6353 4 ปีที่แล้ว +1

    great video helpt me a lot

    • @AnnaDavey
      @AnnaDavey  4 ปีที่แล้ว

      Pleasure 😁

  • @ingarode199
    @ingarode199 5 ปีที่แล้ว +1

    Tried on some dragos yesterday. Do you think they will widen in the first few weeks or do they stay the way they are when they're new? I'm thinking about going down 1/2 size, which i would still fit into but then they are just too tight to wear them for more than a minute or so :'D

    • @AnnaDavey
      @AnnaDavey  5 ปีที่แล้ว +1

      They definitely stretch. Downsize 1.5 under street size

  • @chuckliu585
    @chuckliu585 5 ปีที่แล้ว +1

    Hey. Nice video with heaps of great insights. What’s your opinion about Five Ten Team 5.10 I’ve read that is pretty much the best toe hook shoe on the market and great for overhang and smear as well. If you could give me a little bit thoughts on 5.10 that’d be appreciated. XD

    • @AnnaDavey
      @AnnaDavey  5 ปีที่แล้ว +1

      I've never tried them so feel I can't comment 😬 but if they're good enough for Janja Garnbret they must be good!

    • @philipppuchner1115
      @philipppuchner1115 4 ปีที่แล้ว +1

      @@AnnaDavey But Janja climbs in Women's HiAngles, not in Teams ;)

    • @philipppuchner1115
      @philipppuchner1115 4 ปีที่แล้ว

      Here, Mani the Monkey directly compares the drago with the 5.10 Team, his most beloved bouldering shoe (until now).

  • @SarahLangJeff
    @SarahLangJeff 5 ปีที่แล้ว +1

    I just bought the scarpa boosters because of you - they fit a little better than the dragons for me :) their excellent! My fiancé bought the VSRs before this video and he was so happy that you mentioned them :) I love your Instagram and this video is so nice

    • @AnnaDavey
      @AnnaDavey  5 ปีที่แล้ว

      Oh nice!! I climbed in the Boosters for a while!! Great pick 💕

  • @hieroglypkic1
    @hieroglypkic1 3 ปีที่แล้ว +1

    I have a pair of instincts which are wearing out was thinking of getting dragos for indoor climbing and save my instincts for outside. My instincts were too tight at first but wore in well if I get dragos in the exact same size can I expect the same to happen? Or would you recommend I get a different size?

    • @AnnaDavey
      @AnnaDavey  3 ปีที่แล้ว +1

      Get 1/2 size down because the Drago's stretch even more.

  • @joelguerin-simard3415
    @joelguerin-simard3415 3 ปีที่แล้ว +2

    I'm someone a bit heavier and I think the VS are not that stiff (for someone my weight) but I want to try something softer for my next pair. I think I will try dragos

    • @AnnaDavey
      @AnnaDavey  3 ปีที่แล้ว +1

      Dragos are good for everyone :)

    • @kaskow21
      @kaskow21 3 ปีที่แล้ว +1

      The new Booster (not booster s) is pretty damn good...speaking as a heavy dude

  • @veerapas
    @veerapas 5 ปีที่แล้ว +2

    Thoughts on Vapor V? I love mine but prefer to use my beginner (bendy) shoes on slab climbs. @bigcountrytown

    • @AnnaDavey
      @AnnaDavey  5 ปีที่แล้ว +1

      Great for beginner to intermediate 😀

  • @viktores6806
    @viktores6806 2 ปีที่แล้ว

    what kind of toe do you have? egyptian greek or cube? i have a problem with my greek type. which shoes will be good for me? I saw that ocun on his site describes the type of finger

  • @cheangkeat
    @cheangkeat 4 ปีที่แล้ว +1

    how long is the break-in period for drago? break-in for it to mould/soften.
    I find my size with drago, slipped in comfortably but it is so snug that I need to take it off every 5 minutes.
    V7-10 are the ranges of my project.
    (I have wide feet and was wearing Shaman 2 previously - i probably forgot how snug was Shaman 2 was when I was breaking it in)

    • @AnnaDavey
      @AnnaDavey  4 ปีที่แล้ว +1

      Literally for me 4 sessions and they're perfect

  • @DrunkenMonkB
    @DrunkenMonkB 3 ปีที่แล้ว +1

    Hello. I went to a bouldering gym 4x in feb 2020, then i started for real at the end of april 2020, i like lead climbing outdoors but for the next 4 months ill be mainly inside on boulders..i can do boulder problems up to 7a my first shoe was la sportiva - gecko, the second one were scarpa veloce (green version prolly super old model and im still using them). Now im thinking bout getting new ones, so which one do you recomend? Im thinking biut scarpa instinct vs / scarpa drago / scarpa booster 2020model.. and what would be the main diference between those 3 pairs?
    Nice video tho 🙌

    • @AnnaDavey
      @AnnaDavey  3 ปีที่แล้ว +1

      Get the new booster model if you can! It's designed to be a fantastic shoe both inside and outside. A bit softer than VSR but still enough stiffness to not get wrecked really fast like Drago

    • @DrunkenMonkB
      @DrunkenMonkB 3 ปีที่แล้ว

      @@AnnaDavey mkaay.. what can u say about the size? i cant try the boosters cuz they dont have them in stores in my country.. but i can try the dragos or vsr.. shall i take the boosters the same size i as the dragos?

    • @AnnaDavey
      @AnnaDavey  3 ปีที่แล้ว +1

      @@DrunkenMonkB Yep I went the same size and they're perfect 🙌

    • @DrunkenMonkB
      @DrunkenMonkB 3 ปีที่แล้ว

      Anna Davey thank you so much.. in like 2 weeks ill post an update on how they be feeling and stuff 🙌

  • @reefleschmeek4226
    @reefleschmeek4226 5 ปีที่แล้ว +1

    Do you know if the VSR sizes the same as the VS? I have VSs right now which I quite like and I'm thinking about eventually getting VSRs as my next pair. Nowhere near me to try a pair on, unfortunately =(

    • @AnnaDavey
      @AnnaDavey  5 ปีที่แล้ว

      I went down 1/2 size as they are a bit softer so will stretch a bit. 😁

    • @mingye3893
      @mingye3893 5 ปีที่แล้ว +1

      for me same size.but vs fits more!

  • @emmanuelguerlesquin5355
    @emmanuelguerlesquin5355 3 ปีที่แล้ว +2

    Great review :)
    Furia S are the best on volumes to me (great for gyms).
    Instinct VS and VSR are great on small holds and my favorite hell hook shoes. The orange ones (VS) are also a good option if you want to extend the lifetime as the rubber is stiffer (e.g. if climbing outside).
    For me, the break in was the opposite. Instinct VS and VSR were super easy to break in and the Furia S was harder (maybe due to the asymetric design which might not be ideal for my foot ?).

    • @AnnaDavey
      @AnnaDavey  3 ปีที่แล้ว

      Thanks for sharing!

  • @henryjenkins4836
    @henryjenkins4836 5 ปีที่แล้ว +1

    Hi Anna, how hard do you climb w bouldering and sport? Also, how did you get sponsored by Scarpa? Love the vids btw!

    • @AnnaDavey
      @AnnaDavey  5 ปีที่แล้ว +1

      It's hard to say as the gyms I climb at don't grade routes and I don't think plastic routes are a good indication of climbing ability as grading systems are different everywhere and very subjective!! I climb most moonboard V9s and i don't train lead so don't have much endurance. The hardest I've done outside at 5.12d, ive never even tried harder though so who knows!! I became sponsored by Scarpa as I was winning alot of comps and have a good social media presence on Instagram 🥰

    • @henryjenkins4836
      @henryjenkins4836 5 ปีที่แล้ว +2

      @ Anna Davey thanks for the response! I've recently started training a lot and would love to be a sponsored athlete at some point! How hard do you think I should climb to be able to seriously compete in local comps? How should you measure difficulty anyway? Training exercises or tension board test pieces maybe? I just started training about a month ago and have done a couple of V9s at my gym, but I'm not sure what all of that really means because like you said, grading is different everywhere. What do you think?

    • @AnnaDavey
      @AnnaDavey  5 ปีที่แล้ว +1

      @@henryjenkins4836 sponsorships can often be much more about your social media presence rather than your level of climbing. Unless you are very very good and out doing hard ascents or winning national level comps. Mind you small gear sponsorships are ascertainable from say 1000 followers and a good state level of competition. Approach companies you love and find out what they are looking for. Good luck ♥️

    • @henryjenkins4836
      @henryjenkins4836 5 ปีที่แล้ว

      @@AnnaDaveythanks for the advice!!

  • @uisking3515
    @uisking3515 3 ปีที่แล้ว

    Hey Anna!
    Which shoes would you recommend for me? I am climbing v4 and my gym doesn’t have many types of climbing shoes. From Scarpa they have vapor v, drago, arpia, instinct vs and origin. Which one do you think would be the best for me?

    • @AnnaDavey
      @AnnaDavey  3 ปีที่แล้ว

      Either Vapor V or Drago. Forget the others. Vapor V will last you much longer but won't be as good on volumes

    • @uisking3515
      @uisking3515 3 ปีที่แล้ว

      Thank you😀

  • @yuppy02
    @yuppy02 3 ปีที่แล้ว +1

    Hi Anna, it sounds like you've worn scarpa most of your climbing career. Have you tried La Sportiva or other brands?

    • @AnnaDavey
      @AnnaDavey  3 ปีที่แล้ว

      Yep I started with La Sportiva for the first year. Weren't great for me foot

  • @Dawson_Glickman
    @Dawson_Glickman 4 ปีที่แล้ว +1

    I’ve loved my dragos for the last 6-7 months but it’s about time for a new pair. I’m in between the chimeras and another pair of dragos. The dragos feel slightly more sloshy than I remember them being at first. Anyway, why do more pro climbers tend to go with dragos instead of the chimera?

    • @AnnaDavey
      @AnnaDavey  4 ปีที่แล้ว

      Yes, but only for lead routes actually. They are Sean Mccolls go to shoes for lead

    • @Dawson_Glickman
      @Dawson_Glickman 4 ปีที่แล้ว +1

      ​@@AnnaDavey Gotcha! thanks for the quick response!!

  • @littleshadyify
    @littleshadyify 4 ปีที่แล้ว +1

    So which shoes would you recommend for indoor bouldering? I have wider feet and i am a beginner to intermediate climber...

    • @AnnaDavey
      @AnnaDavey  4 ปีที่แล้ว +1

      Scarpa Vapor V would be best in the men's version

  • @ABSVabeautifulsunsetvlog
    @ABSVabeautifulsunsetvlog 4 ปีที่แล้ว

    So I have a pair of the VS...if I get them resoled in the XS Grip 2 rubber aren’t they exactly the same as the VSR?

    • @AnnaDavey
      @AnnaDavey  4 ปีที่แล้ว

      Almost but the toe box and heel is a bit different

  • @tester2101
    @tester2101 ปีที่แล้ว +1

    Hi Anna! I'm looking for my first climbing shoes. I tried quite a few models but I didn't like how I felt them on my feet. Then I tried Dragos and that was a totally different experience. But there is a problem. It's quite comfortable to put them on and to feel them on my feet until I'm trying to stand up. I just can't stand on my feet. They are -1 size to my street shoes (43 against 44). Now I'm waiting to try Dragos 44 but I suppose they will be too loose. Could you advise is it okay not to be able to stand on the foot in brand new shoes? Regarding that I'm a beginner and not used to wearing tight climbing shoes. If I get 43 will they stretch enough? Yeah, I know Dragos are not for beginners but I'm doing quite well as for beginner and I tried some beginners' shoes and I didn't like them. I really feel I can perform better in better shoes. Especially in bouldering

    • @AnnaDavey
      @AnnaDavey  ปีที่แล้ว +1

      Try the Veloce or Furia S over the drago!! You'll be able to stand better!!

    • @tester2101
      @tester2101 ปีที่แล้ว

      @@AnnaDavey thanks for reply! It's not so easy for me now to find a model I want in offline shop to try it on. Because I'm from Ukraine and we have hard days recently. I didn't find Veloce or Furia. I managed just to find Drago and some La Sportivas and Black Diamonds. So, you mean if I can't stand in the shoes it would be not a good decision to buy them? Didn't they stretch enough?

    • @AnnaDavey
      @AnnaDavey  ปีที่แล้ว +1

      When I first put on Dragos I can stand in mine and I'm 2 sizes under street size so that surprises me! They will stretch 1/2 a size and flatten out slightly

    • @tester2101
      @tester2101 ปีที่แล้ว

      @@AnnaDavey wow.. I don't know how it's possible.. :) thanks anyway! I'll think about it. I'm going to try 43 again. Maybe it'll be not so terrible for the second time :)

    • @tester2101
      @tester2101 ปีที่แล้ว +1

      Just in case anyone will be interested in my experience with Drago sizing. Finally, I chose 43. I suffered for one or two training sessions. Now I'm absolutely happy about my choice. It is still quite hard to put the shoes on at the beginning of the training while they are cold. But when they get warmer they are great!

  • @riezkimullen7542
    @riezkimullen7542 4 ปีที่แล้ว +1

    What model and size are you using in madrock before and what size do you use in drago now? Your street shoe size? I would to switch my agama madrock to drago, and still confuse to size down, thx!

    • @AnnaDavey
      @AnnaDavey  4 ปีที่แล้ว +1

      MadRocks are try to size (don't downsize!) I am a street size 39.5 and wore and 39.5 and they were tight as hell! In Scarpa I am wearing 37.5 in Dragos and have even managed to get into a 37 in Furia S 🤪

    • @riezkimullen7542
      @riezkimullen7542 4 ปีที่แล้ว

      @@AnnaDavey thx anna!!!

  • @JustinSendsIt
    @JustinSendsIt 5 ปีที่แล้ว +1

    just bought some scarpas!

    • @AnnaDavey
      @AnnaDavey  5 ปีที่แล้ว

      Which ones?? 😁

    • @JustinSendsIt
      @JustinSendsIt 5 ปีที่แล้ว

      @@AnnaDavey Orange VS! So far I'm loving them, I switched from the LaSportiva Skwamas

  • @jonnes__4657
    @jonnes__4657 3 ปีที่แล้ว

    🐱‍👤 Hi Anna, I'm looking for a softer shoe with more feeling for inside (bouldering) and I think I have to buy a Drago.
    But I don't know which size? I have a bit a wider forefoot. My foot length is 165 mm, that is a 42 EU street shoe (8 UK). I have heard, Scarpa shoes are a bit smaller than La Solution shoes, which I size approx. one size down. Is it correct, that we can dowsize a softer shoe a bit more? But it should be also comfortably on volumes and slabs.
    .

    • @AnnaDavey
      @AnnaDavey  3 ปีที่แล้ว +1

      Hello..Drago would be great and yes you shouldn't downsize as they will stretch. No actually La Sportiva are a smaller fit, Scarpa suits a broader foot and are true to size. I go 1.5 sizes under my street for a nice fit. I have a performance pair for comps 2 sizes under though. So for you, I'd suggest 40 or 40.5. Every gym stocks Dragos, I'd suggest trying them on.

    • @jonnes__4657
      @jonnes__4657 3 ปีที่แล้ว

      @@AnnaDavey Thx. 🙏

  • @sansiff384
    @sansiff384 2 ปีที่แล้ว +1

    Need some help, I only do boulder in V6-7 with f*cking bad shoes (sorry for that but they are so bad), and I want to go for Furia S cause it seems to fit well to my climbing style. I really like very little foot holds and I'm very precise, and sometimes i use to go on volumes but with my actual shoes I can't even put my foots on little holds so would you recommand me Furia S or some other shoes could be better?
    Sorry for this very bad english I'm French, I hope someone will understand me as well x)

    • @AnnaDavey
      @AnnaDavey  2 ปีที่แล้ว

      Furia S wouldn't be great!

  • @jBrunhas
    @jBrunhas 4 ปีที่แล้ว

    Between scarpa drago and the vapor v which one whould you choose for bouldering in general indoor?

    • @rasmusblomberg7373
      @rasmusblomberg7373 4 ปีที่แล้ว +2

      Between those, i'd go for a pair of Dragos. However, it is worth it to keep in mind that if you aren't doing any competitions/lots of comp style boulders, the VSR's are probably the better overall shoe. The Drago is a fantastic comp shoe, and for a majority of the gym bouldering you'll do, they will be just fine, but I have found (from around 10 months of use) the VSR's are able to climb everything in a gym (ik Anna said she takes them of for volumes, which makes sense as the Dragos are undeniably better at that, but they are definitely good enough at most volumes, being relatively soft, flat, and obviously with a split mid-sole). BUT the VSR's are 100% the better small edge shoe and will last you much longer - mine have survived ~3 uses per week for 10 months, but are now definitely in need of an upgrade very soon. The Dragos would never give you that kind of a lifespan, especially since my VSR's have gone out with me and shredded through both bouldering and routes.
      So overall, if you are going to do more comp style, then it's not a question, go for the Dragos, but if you want to to have a shoe that can crush everything indoors and (potentially outdoors too) the VSR's are, in my opinion, and that of Robbie Philips (yes, he literally said "they can do everything" in an interview with EpicTV) the better choice. So it's up to you, and how both feel when your trying them on - shoe demos are a BIG plus - if one fits your foot better, go for it, you won't be disappointed either way.
      All that being said - the Drago looks better and has a cooler name, so if you wanna show off, there is only one way to go :)

    • @jBrunhas
      @jBrunhas 4 ปีที่แล้ว +1

      @@rasmusblomberg7373 Thanks! I have one pair already for outdoor I just wanted for Boulder! I loved the last paragraph👌😁

    • @rasmusblomberg7373
      @rasmusblomberg7373 4 ปีที่แล้ว

      @@jBrunhas oh alright, then I couldn't recommend the Dragos, more! They're definitely one of the best shoes on the market. And thanks haha.

  • @danics_0995
    @danics_0995 ปีที่แล้ว

    Maybe i troll asking here but scarpa drago are still in the top ir new shoes outperform them?

    • @AnnaDavey
      @AnnaDavey  ปีที่แล้ว

      I don't understand the question sorry?? The English is a bit mixed 😬 Are you asking if Drago is still the best performance shoe?

  • @ferguscarroll5520
    @ferguscarroll5520 4 ปีที่แล้ว +2

    stealth kitty!

  • @rotten_kiwi
    @rotten_kiwi 4 ปีที่แล้ว +1

    Looking to get a pair of these and wondering how far you downsized them (relatively comfortably)
    Im a size 42EU and was looking to go down to a 40EU. You think that will be too much?

    • @AnnaDavey
      @AnnaDavey  4 ปีที่แล้ว

      I'm 1.5 sizes under street size comfortably

    • @rotten_kiwi
      @rotten_kiwi 4 ปีที่แล้ว

      @@AnnaDavey Have you gone 2 sizes under? How is the performance at 1.5? Also how much do they stretch?

    • @AnnaDavey
      @AnnaDavey  4 ปีที่แล้ว

      @@rotten_kiwi in Drago's? No I haven't as 1.5 is perfect. They don't stretch much 1/2 size

  • @Nannarii
    @Nannarii 5 ปีที่แล้ว +1

    Have you gotten to try the Furia Air yet?

    • @Nannarii
      @Nannarii 5 ปีที่แล้ว +2

      Also, I've got the Dragos, but I probably wouldn't recommend it to newer climbers (like myself). The rubber is so soft that sloppy footwork ends up tearing the rubber fairly quickly. Mine lasted about 4-6 months before both shoes had holes at the tip of the sole..

    • @AnnaDavey
      @AnnaDavey  5 ปีที่แล้ว

      @@Nannarii yep as I said at the start of the video NOT for beginners 🤗

    • @AnnaDavey
      @AnnaDavey  5 ปีที่แล้ว

      As for the Furia air, honestly U would put a hole in them in a month so I haven't bothered trying them. Where I climb the walls are super textured! 😖

  • @Grynfelt
    @Grynfelt ปีที่แล้ว

    What's the sizing? If I get a good fit for VSR, will I get the same size for Dragos or Dragos LV or the sizes differ?

    • @AnnaDavey
      @AnnaDavey  ปีที่แล้ว +1

      same :)

    • @Grynfelt
      @Grynfelt ปีที่แล้ว

      @@AnnaDavey thank you!

    • @Grynfelt
      @Grynfelt ปีที่แล้ว

      @@AnnaDavey also since you replied and I appreciate it, from the scarpa sizing guide I have a size 40 EU (25.5 mondopoint), is it safe to go for a 39 without my toes hurting (I'm an intermediate indoor gym climber)? Thank you in advance!

    • @AnnaDavey
      @AnnaDavey  ปีที่แล้ว +1

      @@Grynfelt depends on your toe box really but should be fine!!

  • @andulasis6283
    @andulasis6283 3 ปีที่แล้ว

    Which out of these 3 would you recommend for wide feet?

    • @AnnaDavey
      @AnnaDavey  3 ปีที่แล้ว +1

      Drago's

    • @andulasis6283
      @andulasis6283 3 ปีที่แล้ว

      @@AnnaDavey alright, thanks. Will go to the next shop tomorrow and try em out :)

  • @GregHartSk8er
    @GregHartSk8er 4 ปีที่แล้ว +3

    Kitty Cat looks bemused - "I don't need shoes! I have claws - far superior!"

  • @Chris-de2qc
    @Chris-de2qc 2 ปีที่แล้ว

    What about the aripas?

    • @AnnaDavey
      @AnnaDavey  2 ปีที่แล้ว

      Never tried them, they're a beginner shoe I believe. Not good for hard boulders.

  • @hejsans1948
    @hejsans1948 4 ปีที่แล้ว +2

    If you only have had scarpa shoes, how could you know it's the best choise.🤔
    Either way it's a good video..

    • @AnnaDavey
      @AnnaDavey  4 ปีที่แล้ว

      I've tried many other shoes don't worry! Before I was sponsored by them I tested Madrock and La Sportiva. Also having won many Competitions in my time, I keep winning Evolv shoes 😆 I hate them

    • @hejsans1948
      @hejsans1948 4 ปีที่แล้ว +1

      @@AnnaDavey Oh, okay😁 I'm thinking of trying out the drago since the shoes I have now are quite out of date. I climb a bit outside though and you said they wear out quite fast so i'm still not sure. Do you have any recommendations for an inside/outside climbing shoe that still performs good on boulders?
      If not i'll probably just go for the dragos.
      I were quite suprised how fast you responded😅

    • @AnnaDavey
      @AnnaDavey  4 ปีที่แล้ว

      @@hejsans1948 cause I was literally just on my Instagram on my phone and the notification pooped up 😆 I wouldn't get Drago's for outside. Get the VSR! They are great on boulders and outside and will last much longer!

    • @hejsans1948
      @hejsans1948 4 ปีที่แล้ว

      @@AnnaDavey okay, thank you for your help👍😀

  • @Sendboi
    @Sendboi ปีที่แล้ว

    Great video
    side note:Recently came across a video of you climbing on TikTok and your belayer had some of the worst belaying I’ve ever seen lol. The video had comments turned off so I’m assuming other people also noticed it. But I just want to mention it for your safety lol
    (Realizing this video is 3 years old but oh well haha)

    • @AnnaDavey
      @AnnaDavey  ปีที่แล้ว

      Hey, it wasn't on Tik Tok is was on TH-cam and yes 3 years ago haha. I was on a top rope with a gri gri. There were a couple of comments about it and unwarranted and getting hurtful to the girl belaying. It was a top rope and on a gri gri; not to say you can have the brake hand up at this stage but she had enough feedback from me, didn't need it from the internet. Watch the climbing not the belaying 😅

    • @Sendboi
      @Sendboi ปีที่แล้ว

      @@AnnaDavey totally understand and I didn’t mean to pile on to all that negativity. Just glad they got it figured out. I know I would be mortified to have a bunch of people pointing out stuff like that.

  • @onsight2822
    @onsight2822 4 ปีที่แล้ว +2

    Are you a cat lady 😍

    • @AnnaDavey
      @AnnaDavey  4 ปีที่แล้ว +1

      Sure am 😁

  • @2arat5
    @2arat5 ปีที่แล้ว

    Hey! I’m a total Scarpa lover and I’m thinking about the next shoe to buy, maybe you could give me an advice if you read my comment? 🥹 I’m already using my third Scarpa shoe (Drago) and before that I had La Sportiva Solution Comps (the only non-Scarpa climbing shoes ever) 😅 and the moment I switched to Drago I realised I never ever want to buy any shoes other than Scarpa again 😅 the comfort of Drago is unbelievable, as well as the sensitivity… however! What I’m missing a little (when compared to Solution Comps) is the pointed tip… I really would love to find a shoe with the same level of comfort and sensitivity as Drago, but with a tip that “bites” more into the small chips, since I mostly do board climbing and I feel that’s what really would help me… could you please comment with a recommendation (if there is such a shoe at all), I’d be very grateful 🤗 thanks for the gre8 video!

    • @AnnaDavey
      @AnnaDavey  ปีที่แล้ว

      Unfortunately I don't think that exists in the Scarpa range haha. Maybe the Chimera?