Thanks a lot, Ed. The "Three Magic Bullets" are a great summary. They are also easy to understand, remember, practice and digest. Excellent! Really like the way you present the information. You talk about it first, then demonstrate it, and finally use a slide with text to summarize it. And you do it in all other of your vids. A great teacher. I always take a screenshot of the text slide as a review/reminder point when needed. Thanks as always.
if we use ttl mode and bounce the flash to the wall or other surface. is the ttl mode still work corectly? or ttl mode work only for direct on camera flash?
Great question. I just did a test in my home to get some real numbers for you. In my kitchen, there is a strip of 4 65 watt mini flood lamps on the ceiling pointed down at various angles (basically track lights). Let's call that the ambient light in the background of an otherwise flash portrait several feet away. Starting with the following camera settings: ISO 100, f/8, 1/250 sec. The ambient is not visible in the first shot. However, after increasing the ISO to 1600 I finally start to see the ambient (I'd say it's just a bit beyond barely noticable). That's a 4 stop difference. But still, if I want just a little more ambient, so that it doesn't look oddly dark, I'd have to increase my ISO to past 3200. Hopefully, my flash is able to decrease its power enough to give me a workable (not blown out) exposure on my nearby subject at that ISO. The other option: simply drag the shutter to 1/15 or slower. The flash will freeze the subject no matter what the shutter speed. But there is a chance that the ambient will streak or ghost the subject at really slow speeds. So, the solution in lower ambient situations would be a combination of adjustments. For example, open up the aperture a stop, and increase the ISO a stop or two, in combination with a decrease in shutter to about 1/60 (very safe). That's 4-5 stops without a ridiculous ISO increase. Make sense?
I should give the flash bender a try. If nothing else, it seems like a versatile version of a standard bounce card (but much larger). Thanks for reminding me. :)
Very Helpful keep making these flash photography videos but with different colour walls and pls tell in indoor events we should choose kelvin or awb or other specific with flash.
Two ways I’ve used flash indoors: 1). Use flash with WB set for flash. 2) use an orange filter (CTO) on the flash to match tungsten lights and shoot with WB set to tungsten.
i am using godox flash for wedding photography so in ttl i should use or manaul which one is best option. In case if there is open space so direct flash one will prefer or how to bounce light there in night scene.
Do you have a tutorial where you demonstrate how to choose the flash settings. This is my issue. I was asked to shoot at an indoor event for the first time and purchased a flash because I knew I wouldn't be able to capture clear images if I increased the ISO too much. Anywho, I used a flashed and noticed that all the photos had a blue hue and way too much shadow. I spend a while editing (good thing I shot in Raw). My main issue was not knowing how to choose the settings when hooking the flash to the camera. Any tips?
I'd start by looking at the white balance (WB) setting on your camera. You'd usually want to set that to "flash" if using flash. This will help with the bluish cast in the shots. The shadow pattern isn't related to your settings, it's a result of lighting technique. I've got several videos on how to deal with flash and different lighting techniques.
Thank you! I understand you. My setting was on Tungsten I believe. I used it only because it said Indoor Lighting. I am very use to shooting outdoor in natural lighting.
If you use a slower shutter speed for more ambient light, the photos wont be so sharp even at 1/125. Rather use a higher ISO. For good IQ, most cameras today can handle at least 800 ISO.
By "sharp" you mean to suggest the ambient will reduce the sharpness of the person in the photo, correct? The flash exposure is the effective (shutter speed) of anything that is not recording as ambient light. But yes, the ambient can cause streaking or ghosting depending on the situation.
a few weeks ago i shot an indoor event. the walls and ceilings (low)were made of wood. the hall is long. half of the guests sitting at the windows (to make things worse the sun was setting shining right through the windows) half of the guests were sitting more towards inside the room in the dark. guess what? those who sat in the dark were underexposed a great deal, those at the window - the window behind them totally blown out (lost data).my camera was on manual mode, flash - ttl/bl. my question is - would it help if my camera was on Apeture priority mode? oh what other settings i can use to shoot all the guests? oh, what changes i can make in settings as i walk from the inside the room towards the window? I hope you understood my problem, i am gonna shoot in the same conditions in a week, so please help me!
I'm 2 months late but I would use manual power for flash, not TTL. Camera in manual mode as well: start at f/5.6, ISO 400 at 1/80 shutter. Set flash at 1/32 power. If picture is underexposed, set flash to 1/16 or ISO to IS0 800 or a combination of both flash and IS0. If too much ambient light is coming through causing subject to get that ghosting effect, increase shutter speed to 1/100 or max it at 1/250.
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Wow, the model is just so fluid with posing. Awesome!
Great video. Simple and straight to the point. Thank you for sharing.
Great video, clear and simple, you've been super useful thanks!
perfect and simple .... great work
Great practical advise regarding FEC and TTL. Thanks!
Thanks for sharing valuable tips.
Great video, Ed. Thank you. Very helpful.
Great tips and i really enjoy it and thanks for sharing
Great video Ed, thanks. I'm sure it helped that the model was so professional, and so beautiful.
The soft box seemed more over exposed then the direct flash? Overall great tips. i will be sure to try them out. thanks and keep up the amazing work.
Wow amazing tips and techniques, really professionalism thank you so much
Thank you!
Hi Ed! These tips were very helpful.
Thank you, Myron!
Thanks a lot, Ed. The "Three Magic Bullets" are a great summary. They are also easy to understand, remember, practice and digest. Excellent!
Really like the way you present the information. You talk about it first, then demonstrate it, and finally use a slide with text to summarize it. And you do it in all other of your vids. A great teacher. I always take a screenshot of the text slide as a review/reminder point when needed. Thanks as always.
+LongTimeTTFan -- thanks!
the lighting is good, but cold looking- any way to warm it up a bit?
if we use ttl mode and bounce the flash to the wall or other surface. is the ttl mode still work corectly? or ttl mode work only for direct on camera flash?
Wouldn’t you be better advised to increase ISO slightly to get more ambient so that you can use a faster shutter to assure a sharp shot?
Great question. I just did a test in my home to get some real numbers for you. In my kitchen, there is a strip of 4 65 watt mini flood lamps on the ceiling pointed down at various angles (basically track lights). Let's call that the ambient light in the background of an otherwise flash portrait several feet away. Starting with the following camera settings: ISO 100, f/8, 1/250 sec. The ambient is not visible in the first shot. However, after increasing the ISO to 1600 I finally start to see the ambient (I'd say it's just a bit beyond barely noticable). That's a 4 stop difference. But still, if I want just a little more ambient, so that it doesn't look oddly dark, I'd have to increase my ISO to past 3200. Hopefully, my flash is able to decrease its power enough to give me a workable (not blown out) exposure on my nearby subject at that ISO.
The other option: simply drag the shutter to 1/15 or slower. The flash will freeze the subject no matter what the shutter speed. But there is a chance that the ambient will streak or ghost the subject at really slow speeds. So, the solution in lower ambient situations would be a combination of adjustments. For example, open up the aperture a stop, and increase the ISO a stop or two, in combination with a decrease in shutter to about 1/60 (very safe). That's 4-5 stops without a ridiculous ISO increase. Make sense?
I shoot alot of events. I use a rouge flash bender. Works quite nicely especially if your celings are too high to bounce or they aren't white.
I should give the flash bender a try. If nothing else, it seems like a versatile version of a standard bounce card (but much larger). Thanks for reminding me. :)
Great video! Thanks for sharing.
Thanks!
Very Helpful keep making these flash photography videos but with different colour walls and pls tell in indoor events we should choose kelvin or awb or other specific with flash.
Two ways I’ve used flash indoors: 1). Use flash with WB set for flash. 2) use an orange filter (CTO) on the flash to match tungsten lights and shoot with WB set to tungsten.
i am using godox flash for wedding photography so in ttl i should use or manaul which one is best option. In case if there is open space so direct flash one will prefer or how to bounce light there in night scene.
Hard to give you detailed answers for all scenarios. You might like this: veroskycourses.com/flash-photography-ebook/
Thank You!
Do you have a tutorial where you demonstrate how to choose the flash settings. This is my issue. I was asked to shoot at an indoor event for the first time and purchased a flash because I knew I wouldn't be able to capture clear images if I increased the ISO too much. Anywho, I used a flashed and noticed that all the photos had a blue hue and way too much shadow. I spend a while editing (good thing I shot in Raw). My main issue was not knowing how to choose the settings when hooking the flash to the camera. Any tips?
I'd start by looking at the white balance (WB) setting on your camera. You'd usually want to set that to "flash" if using flash. This will help with the bluish cast in the shots. The shadow pattern isn't related to your settings, it's a result of lighting technique. I've got several videos on how to deal with flash and different lighting techniques.
Thank you! I understand you. My setting was on Tungsten I believe. I used it only because it said Indoor Lighting. I am very use to shooting outdoor in natural lighting.
pls tell in indoor events we should choose kelvin or awb or other specific with flash.
Best video
Great video many thanks.....
Hello Ed, Thank-you Ed, that was very interesting, thanks for sharing your knowledge with us, thanks again take care.
+daddy4 evercool -- I appreciate it -- thanks!
Is it good to set slave or master mode for on camera flash? Can you teach me setup on camera flash?
Great tips... just found this video recently 😄
You showed me alot . Thank for sharing.. and im subscribing
Very helpful
Great video, gorgeous model too
Does the yongnou 565ex ii go better with my Canon 700d as it is ttl
The mini softbox bounced off a wall/ceiling, is it better than a direct bounce or just unnecessary?
It would not only be unnecessary, but a waste of flash power.
Ed Verosky Thanks.
Hi
Which flashlight Do you recommend me to buy for my nikon d7200 for personal use?
You're going to have to figure that out for yourself. Like anything else, it depends on the features you want/need and the budget you're working with.
SB 910 is great! was expensive but was worth it. make sure u buy good batteries for that (read manual for the flash)
SB-700 nikon flash is great for my D7200. TTL Worls perfect.
Hello sir. I wanna buy a flash for my canon 700d. Guide me should i go for ttl or manual flash
+Avinash Butani -- get a TTL capable flash that allows you to switch to manual.
Ed Verosky thank u
Thank you ! very helpful
+Sonja Carree - very welcome!
Nice, thx for share
Nice presentation!
Thanks!
Wow this was really helpful. I'm gonna give it a go.
Great vid
Thanks, Eric
This definitely a great video
Thanks a lot ! Your videos are great ! Recently discorevered this channel.
Thanks, Rodrigo!
..good content!
If you use a slower shutter speed for more ambient light, the photos wont be so sharp even at 1/125. Rather use a higher ISO. For good IQ, most cameras today can handle at least 800 ISO.
By "sharp" you mean to suggest the ambient will reduce the sharpness of the person in the photo, correct? The flash exposure is the effective (shutter speed) of anything that is not recording as ambient light. But yes, the ambient can cause streaking or ghosting depending on the situation.
a few weeks ago i shot an indoor event. the walls and ceilings (low)were made of wood. the hall is long. half of the guests sitting at the windows (to make things worse the sun was setting shining right through the windows) half of the guests were sitting more towards inside the room in the dark. guess what? those who sat in the dark were underexposed a great deal, those at the window - the window behind them totally blown out (lost data).my camera was on manual mode, flash - ttl/bl. my question is - would it help if my camera was on Apeture priority mode? oh what other settings i can use to shoot all the guests? oh, what changes i can make in settings as i walk from the inside the room towards the window? I hope you understood my problem, i am gonna shoot in the same conditions in a week, so please help me!
I'm 2 months late but I would use manual power for flash, not TTL. Camera in manual mode as well: start at f/5.6, ISO 400 at 1/80 shutter. Set flash at 1/32 power. If picture is underexposed, set flash to 1/16 or ISO to IS0 800 or a combination of both flash and IS0. If too much ambient light is coming through causing subject to get that ghosting effect, increase shutter speed to 1/100 or max it at 1/250.
Thanks Ed, really useful for me :-)
Glad you found it useful, Neil!