Easy Brush and Sponge Chipping on this Tiger
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 27 มิ.ย. 2020
- Today we are going to work on one of the most controversial techniques in out hobby. Chipping! I am going to be working through several techniques, including the sponge-chipping technique, oil-spattering technique, and weld-bead chipping, so sit back, relax, and enjoy!
very good,shows you dont need chipping fluids etc to achieve realistic effects...just patience...top notch m8 works well for smaller scales than hairspray or chipping fluid as you can scale the brushes down
It's nice work as usual. Also it's very understandable. Thank you !
Nice chipping tool you need to get that patent...Nice Work!
Thanks!
Great chipping effects!
Thanks!
Some good stuff in this video ... you might want to try you dot filters with smaller dots and less thinner.. On the vertical surfaces you can make some of the dots streak downward creating different effects. This is where less thinner will help.. you can try doing each color separately for different effects as well .. sometimes too many colors can just become a murky mess.. Also the filter .. when doing a filter try dipping your brush in the filter and then use a paper towel to get most off your brush .. you want the color to change slowly but you don't want the filter to run .. You'll see you can get better control this way ... A few things I'm wondering about on the build part.. If you leave the part of the fender off .. there were bolt heads welded to the side of the hull .. I get if you don't add those but the holes in the side of the hull should at least be filled ... same with the shields on the exhaust .. they were bolted on with bolts welded to the hull.. Be careful next time of the angle of the commanders hatch, the hatch should be at about a 2 o'clock position and the view port should look straight forward .. A lot of people get that wrong .. just something to think about next time ... There are a few other little niggles but hey.. looks good! Keep up the good work and if you are working with Panzermeister36 and Hamilkar , your're in good hands .. I also see the Uncle Nightshift influence in your weathering which is another great reference .. good job sir.. Please take this as trying to help and not trying to nitpick your work..
Thanks! Yeah, didn’t quite do enough research, I do know about the hatch placement, but I had glued it together, and was not able to put the periscope and hatch at the right positions. The missing bolt details on the back shields was an oversight on my part, and I have seen how the fenders have square brackets where the bolts should be, just got a little lazy, and called it good enough.
As for the dot streaking, I was actually planning on using it, but since I made the oil placement unique to each camo color, it was impossible not to get red or green on the yellow, and vice versa. The next tank will be a single tone, and I’ll be able to use the streaking technique
Bro no offence but, it's seems you don't understand some aspects of German tanks and colours and how to tie them in to create that look. I'am not a one of them Pc Master race types it has to be this exact colour etc you could have painted it Kawasaki green and I'd still like the video, so please don't take what I say as criticism or just bashing your build that's not my intention it's more of a friendly nudge in the right direction.
With German 3tone camouflage the best bet is to start with the red primer as your first colour, then yellow then your green touching your yellow, the way the paint is layered creates the effect/look as you was adding yellow chips to the primer colours and technically you should be chipping down to the metal not a colour that's normally painted onto the primer, also I wouldn't do that weld bead painting either because like the above you could have 3 layers of paint to get through to get any shine and red oxide is very tough also stainless steel welds actually are not that shiny to get shiny stainless you need a lot of polishing and the Germans only gave there tanks a quick swipe with a steel brush to get rid of slag.
You honestly done a great job and should be proud, 👍 Please don't take it as a bashing more of a friendly heads up.
Gotcha, thanks
Sorry mate ......
In my opinion, chipping and weathering is way too much. Not historical accurate. Chipping and wear is in the wrong places.
These tanks lasted no more than a few months, a year...tops. Not enough time to collect this much wear and tear.....
The Germans used quality steel and quality welds. But also quality paints. The whole tank was first painted in a red-brown primer (the barrel was painted in a heat-resistant grey primer), then the whole thing was covered in German Grey. Only then it received the camo it needed. Often, it was added in the field. Remember this info, next time you start adding layers and start chipping.
So next time, take it easy on the rust and chipping, and add mud and dirt in the logical places.
Less is more....
I actually agree. HOWEVER, I honestly like the visual detail it adds to the model. When I think of all the rocks and shrapnel thrown up by artillery and even machine guns, you can see how the paint really would get pretty banged up. Now, I did a trash job on this model, I didn’t have good brushes and it wasn’t very fine, but since then I have upgraded by brushes. Unfortunately, I don’t see a future where I stop banging up my models, but honestly I feel like it’s justified. About rust, rust can build up extremely fast, my dad had a machine shop shipped to him across the states, and it had a decent amount of rust buildup by the time it got here, so I don’t think that a rusty tank is really that far-fetched. As for mud buildup, I reallly didn’t do much for this tank. I did put some dust effects around the turret top, but that seems reasonable. Also, the mud on the glacis was actually based off of a historical photo.
I realize that when I make content about these immaculate German tanks someone will call out my heavy weathering, but it’s the way I do things, and I really don’t see it changing. Thanks for watching.
@@ScaleStudioModeling .. ;-) Excellent reply. And as long as YOU are happy with the end result and you had fun building the model, I think you have achieved your goal !!
I just think it's a poor copy of watching uncle Night shift even down to his neon blink sound at the start it's a NO from me on that! Always remember the golden rule never copy other modelers or museums for that matter too lol
@@AFV85 ... I disagree. If someone else's work is better than what I could do, I'll try to copy it, and learn from it.
After all, that's how we learn. We copy the work from more experienced people. This is how the student learns from the master.
As far as museums are concerned... Few objects still have the original paint. Tanks and airplanes are often repainted. Sometimes in the wrong colors (e.g. Matilda tank, they used light blue instead of slate/silver grey...!!).
@@telescopereplicator oh don't I just know it and I've had the argument with Bovington avout the caunter scheme but oh they have to be correct saying they kept the paint under the tool clamps and inside the front stowage boxes and they also have the original paint codes! Absolutely BS! My Grandfather was a desert rat and nothing was blue and yellow! There light stone is basically a yellow they used and the sky blue the museum used instead of the silver/Gray! Bovington seem to think they used old RAF paints from storage it was most probably Naval not RAF! And I was more on about copying the theme of his channel the way night shift has his wee themed intro! Someone else has Andy's hobby headquarters theme aswell it just seems like it's been badly copied that's all I didn't enjoy it that's my opinion and I'm entitled to it!