I keep coming back to this video for assistance with shoulder shaping. It is much better than doing stair step bind off. Thank you so much for taking the time to produce these helpful and amazing videos.
I learnt this technique quite a few years ago as a machine knitter and transferred it to my hand knitting as I preferred the effect it gave. Thank you for showing the technique so clearly
I ran into w/t on a pattern today and was so disoriented. While I could find instructions to do it in many places, this was the one video that explained the why -- something I very much need. Your videos are reliably clear and well-considered. Thank you so much!
Thank you so much for your very clear and step by step explanation. I now finally ‘get’ how short rows work on shoulders. I was having so much trouble getting my head around the technique.
I watched your video about shoulder shaping using a short row technique and thought WOW!!! I’m currently making the back of my sweater and was ready to shape the shoulders the “old” way. So, I planned my shaping, placed my markers and away I went doing each shoulder separately but leaving all the stitches live to join with the fronts later. However, I did each side separately and not knowing quite what else to do at this point, I put each section on stitch holders to complete when I found out what to do. And here I am the very next morning watching your most wonderful video on what I could/should have done last night. Everything is wonderful and all will be put together at the end. Can’t thank you enough for all of your fabulous videos!!! Rox rocks!!!
I’m a novice knitter and I’ve learnt so much from you! 🙏 My first child’s sweater had such messy bulky shoulder seams so I’m doing this now with 3 needle cast off. What worries me is that with all the knitting backwards and forwards, I’m knitting more rows at the end than I was supposed to on the pattern.
If you are substituting the short rows for the stair step bind offs, then you don't end up with any extra length (possibly one row more, depending on the situation, but that's negligible).
Gosh Roxanne, I planned to do this neck and shoulder shaping on a Martin Storey design I am working again (I frogged the first two finished pieces) because I just did not like the stair step. My dyslexia was in full force this past two weeks so I had shelved it and schedule two Musselburgh hats instead. This morning my brain finally lined up the logistics and the geometry and I made the decision to look at your videos to see what you have in this technique just to verify my own conclusions. Spot on Roxanne! Thank you for the video of my brain’s visual 😊👍🏼
I had just put aside my knitting for a little break before I start - The Shoulder Shaping! - when like magic there’s a new video from Roxanne about - Shoulder Shaping!! Thank you so much for reading my mind! This pattern has some neck shaping too, so the back neck ends up a little lower than the shoulders, but I bet I can figure it out thanks to your clear instructions🥰🥰
The neck shaping on the back is usually decreases, so you don't have to worry too much about stair stepping there. You might be better off doing the shoulders separately, as for the front shoulders.
Wow. I used this on my most recent sweater. It had pretty simple sloped bind off-6 stitches then 7 stitches then 7. My brain had a little problem figuring out how to do it (I am not a visual learner) but I figured it out. Then I had to do it on the front. There was a deep v, so I did one side at a time. Really had to unwind the front to get to the second side. I did the 3 needle bind off, and it looks terrific! I will never do a hand sewn shoulder again!
This really is a technique for the back shoulders. I did a video a couple of years ago for short row shoulder shaping when you have separate shoulders. You can find it here: th-cam.com/video/kEAOGE2ZBms/w-d-xo.html (I think it was linked on the video end screen, as well)
Thanks for another great technique video Roxanne! I like German Short Rows. I’ll have to check out your other videos. Thanks for showing the 3 needle bind off. Looks nice and smooth! Thanks again!🤗🤗
Hi Roxanne, can you please post a video showing how to smooth out the transition between shaped shoulders and neckline when the pattern says to shape shoulders separately but not to work the neckline stitches?
Great video, Rox! I’ve never been a fan of the step bind off technique... It’s nice to see that there’s a simple way to use short rows to replace them! Thanks for sharing!
I’ve never seen this technique before, but I loved it! I’m still giving my first steps in knitting, now I’m starting to look for these techniques for improvement of my work, and this is amazing! I’m not a big fan of the bottom-up pieces, but this makes everything so much better... I’ve already seen this kind of shoulder shaping in sewing, but it have never come to me in knitting. I love your videos and the knowledge you share to us!!! Kisses from Brazil ❤️❤️❤️
Thanks for a great video! Also, I use a crochet hook in one size larger for the third needle. I find that it's much easier to manage, and the stitches do not slip off as badly.
Specifically, I'm working on a Rowan pattern "Bacall" by Sarah Hatton, used short rows, one side of the shoulder is 3 rows higher than the neckline. A rounded collar will be sewn in later. Maybe this could help other knitters who are working on a similar neck and shoulder line❤
I don't understand why after taking off your last orange marker you don't turn and go back as far as your blue marker, then turn again and go as far as the next blue marker before going to the end of the row?
How could you apply this technique to shoulders that have a pattern repeat, something other other than stocking stitch, could it be worked on FairI Isle or Lace for example.Demonstrations of these (probably too time consuming in both set up and execution for a video tutorial) techniques would make really great videos. Love your work. Thank you so much for giving so much of your precious time to assist us lesser mortals. Michelle UK
In order to figure out if a stitch pattern will work, you typically have to chart it out first and then analyze it. Sometimes, it will work physically, but not aesthetically. Sometimes you may need to adjust the exact placement of the turns in order to work with the stitch pattern. Cables can sometimes work, but it depends on the type of cable and whether or not there are cable crossings in the same row where you need to make a short row turn. For traveling cables, I usually find a way to first decrease the number of sts down to the number the shoulder would need for stockinette, and "close" the cable at the top, which allows me to do the short rows in reverse stockinette. Lace can work, sometimes, but you have to be mindful of where the decs and YOs lie in relation to the turn. Colorwork might work, depending on the stitch pattern. You have to address it on a case-by-case basis. Often, the best solution ends up being the stair-step bind off, but other times, you might be able to do the short row turns, maintaining the pattern just as you would for stair steps, and then for the final rows where you work across all the sts, work them in plain stockinette.
Hi Roxanne, this is a great demo, thank you. Can you tell me how to do the same for reverse stocking stitch. I have done wrap and turn and the right side has obvious lines on it. Many thanks Jacquie
If you use W&T SRs, you have to pick up the wraps so that they hide on the WS of the work when you knit past them. If you use German SRs (which I most likely used in this demonstration), you don't pick up wraps, you have a double stitch sitting *on* the needle (rather than a wrap under the needle) that is worked as one stitch (like a k2tog or p2tog), and the result looks good on either face of the fabric.
Hi Roxanne, i used this technique snd it gave a more refined finish! Except i ended up w holes between bound off neck line and first live stitch (for 3 needle bind off) of shoulder seam. What could have gone wrong?
Usually, stockinette bands have several specific qualities (there are exceptions). First, they are knit in the same direction as the body of the sweater. They are knit to twice the width that you want the band to be, with an extra stitch in the center that creates a column of garter or RS purls. This is the fold line. Then the two selvedges of the band are sewn to the selvedge of the body. This not only prevents the band from rolling, but it gives the band more substance/thickness. When you knit the button holes, you have to knit them in both halves of the band and line them up when you fold the band. Ribbed bands will naturally lie flat, but they also create a thicker fabric with more substance than a single layer of stockinette, because the purls recede and the knits come forward.
While you *can* graft the shoulders closed, it's not always a good idea. The entire weight of the sweater hangs from the shoulders, so that's the place where you want less stretch and more stability than any other place in the garment. If the shoulders are grafted, the fabric can stretch too much widthwise and end up sliding down your arms.
@@RoxanneRichardson So wonderful to get your quick feedback, a BIG thank🙏 from Germany😊 The pattern indicates shoulder slope and I suppose that your guidance may lead me to the result.
Another great video. I like the idea of short rows instead S of the step bo. Looks neater. I have a question, could you Kitchener the shoulders together?
@Lourdes Manners - Good question, Lourdes! I believe I’m correct in advising that using the Kitchener graft for the shoulder seam is not advisable. There won’t be enough strength in the seam to support the weight of the garment, so it would simply stretch lengthwise. I’m not an expert like Rox, though, so I’ll let her weigh in if this is incorrect.
Would this method work if I place my neck stitches on waste yarn to hold? It doesn't seem to. However, I am thinking that if I do it one shoulder at a time, like your other shaping video, it would work. The pattern already has me put the "non bound off" stitches on holder yarn for 3bo (shoulders) and later pick up for the collar (neck). If I map it out, I shall see ...
If the shoulders are separate, as for the front of a sweater, use the method shown in the other video. If the shoulders are not separated, as for the back of a sweater, use this method.
If the original instructions were to bind off at the start of a RS row, then on the WS row prior to that is where you would do your first short row turn.
I keep coming back to this video for assistance with shoulder shaping. It is much better than doing stair step bind off. Thank you so much for taking the time to produce these helpful and amazing videos.
Thanks Rox! Your videos are always so clear and helpful.
Thank you for this video. I was having trouble with short row shoulder shaping. Your tutorial helped me a lot.😊
Thank you. Your tutorials are always so clear and easy to follow.
I learnt this technique quite a few years ago as a machine knitter and transferred it to my hand knitting as I preferred the effect it gave. Thank you for showing the technique so clearly
I ran into w/t on a pattern today and was so disoriented. While I could find instructions to do it in many places, this was the one video that explained the why -- something I very much need. Your videos are reliably clear and well-considered. Thank you so much!
This is fabulous!! Exactly what I needed. Thank you!!
Thank you so much for your very clear and step by step explanation. I now finally ‘get’ how short rows work on shoulders. I was having so much trouble getting my head around the technique.
A great and concise video that put a light on this technic for me
Love your easy explanations. You don’t go to fast for me to keep up!
I watched your video about shoulder shaping using a short row technique and thought WOW!!! I’m currently making the back of my sweater and was ready to shape the shoulders the “old” way. So, I planned my shaping, placed my markers and away I went doing each shoulder separately but leaving all the stitches live to join with the fronts later. However, I did each side separately and not knowing quite what else to do at this point, I put each section on stitch holders to complete when I found out what to do. And here I am the very next morning watching your most wonderful video on what I could/should have done last night. Everything is wonderful and all will be put together at the end. Can’t thank you enough for all of your fabulous videos!!! Rox rocks!!!
I’m a novice knitter and I’ve learnt so much from you! 🙏 My first child’s sweater had such messy bulky shoulder seams so I’m doing this now with 3 needle cast off. What worries me is that with all the knitting backwards and forwards, I’m knitting more rows at the end than I was supposed to on the pattern.
If you are substituting the short rows for the stair step bind offs, then you don't end up with any extra length (possibly one row more, depending on the situation, but that's negligible).
I have always wanted a concise lesson for this. Thanks, Rox.
You're very welcome!
Gosh Roxanne, I planned to do this neck and shoulder shaping on a Martin Storey design I am working again (I frogged the first two finished pieces) because I just did not like the stair step. My dyslexia was in full force this past two weeks so I had shelved it and schedule two Musselburgh hats instead. This morning my brain finally lined up the logistics and the geometry and I made the decision to look at your videos to see what you have in this technique just to verify my own conclusions. Spot on Roxanne! Thank you for the video of my brain’s visual 😊👍🏼
This is brilliant. I‘m a novice knitter and I really didn’t like my bulky untidy shoulder seams. Thank-you!
This is perfect! Thank you so much!
I had just put aside my knitting for a little break before I start - The Shoulder Shaping! - when like magic there’s a new video from Roxanne about - Shoulder Shaping!! Thank you so much for reading my mind! This pattern has some neck shaping too, so the back neck ends up a little lower than the shoulders, but I bet I can figure it out thanks to your clear instructions🥰🥰
The neck shaping on the back is usually decreases, so you don't have to worry too much about stair stepping there. You might be better off doing the shoulders separately, as for the front shoulders.
I’m looking again and I think you’re right.
Wow. I used this on my most recent sweater. It had pretty simple sloped bind off-6 stitches then 7 stitches then 7. My brain had a little problem figuring out how to do it (I am not a visual learner) but I figured it out. Then I had to do it on the front. There was a deep v, so I did one side at a time. Really had to unwind the front to get to the second side. I did the 3 needle bind off, and it looks terrific! I will never do a hand sewn shoulder again!
This really is a technique for the back shoulders. I did a video a couple of years ago for short row shoulder shaping when you have separate shoulders. You can find it here: th-cam.com/video/kEAOGE2ZBms/w-d-xo.html (I think it was linked on the video end screen, as well)
@@RoxanneRichardson Ah - thank you. I have asked a question above about this above. I will have a look at this.
Thanks for another great technique video Roxanne! I like German Short Rows. I’ll have to check out your other videos. Thanks for showing the 3 needle bind off. Looks nice and smooth! Thanks again!🤗🤗
Hi Roxanne, can you please post a video showing how to smooth out the transition between shaped shoulders and neckline when the pattern says to shape shoulders separately but not to work the neckline stitches?
Thanks so much for this video. I now understand how to do this.
Followed your directions on a baby sweater and it worked great! Thank you.
Wonderful!
This is perfect timing, I'm 5 rows from starting the bind off! Bless you
Great video, Rox! I’ve never been a fan of the step bind off technique... It’s nice to see that there’s a simple way to use short rows to replace them! Thanks for sharing!
I’ve never seen this technique before, but I loved it! I’m still giving my first steps in knitting, now I’m starting to look for these techniques for improvement of my work, and this is amazing! I’m not a big fan of the bottom-up pieces, but this makes everything so much better... I’ve already seen this kind of shoulder shaping in sewing, but it have never come to me in knitting. I love your videos and the knowledge you share to us!!! Kisses from Brazil ❤️❤️❤️
Thank you for the tutorial. It is very clear and easy to understand.
Glad to hear that!
Thank you Roxanne. Great video.
Thanks for a great video! Also, I use a crochet hook in one size larger for the third needle. I find that it's much easier to manage, and the stitches do not slip off as badly.
Directions are excellent thanks😊
Wow this is stunning and ground breaking. Why don't all patterns have this. I want to do these seamless finishes from now on
Specifically, I'm working on a Rowan pattern "Bacall" by Sarah Hatton, used short rows, one side of the shoulder is 3 rows higher than the neckline. A rounded collar will be sewn in later. Maybe this could help other knitters who are working on a similar neck and shoulder line❤
Amazing!! Thank you so much!!!
I don't understand why after taking off your last orange marker you don't turn and go back as far as your blue marker, then turn again and go as far as the next blue marker before going to the end of the row?
Why would you bo one shoulder then the other then the neck rather than just binding off straight across?
How could you apply this technique to shoulders that have a pattern repeat, something other other than stocking stitch, could it be worked on FairI Isle or Lace for example.Demonstrations of these (probably too time consuming in both set up and execution for a video tutorial) techniques would make really great videos. Love your work. Thank you so much for giving so much of your precious time to assist us lesser mortals. Michelle UK
In order to figure out if a stitch pattern will work, you typically have to chart it out first and then analyze it. Sometimes, it will work physically, but not aesthetically. Sometimes you may need to adjust the exact placement of the turns in order to work with the stitch pattern. Cables can sometimes work, but it depends on the type of cable and whether or not there are cable crossings in the same row where you need to make a short row turn. For traveling cables, I usually find a way to first decrease the number of sts down to the number the shoulder would need for stockinette, and "close" the cable at the top, which allows me to do the short rows in reverse stockinette. Lace can work, sometimes, but you have to be mindful of where the decs and YOs lie in relation to the turn. Colorwork might work, depending on the stitch pattern. You have to address it on a case-by-case basis. Often, the best solution ends up being the stair-step bind off, but other times, you might be able to do the short row turns, maintaining the pattern just as you would for stair steps, and then for the final rows where you work across all the sts, work them in plain stockinette.
Hi Roxanne, this is a great demo, thank you. Can you tell me how to do the same for reverse stocking stitch. I have done wrap and turn and the right side has obvious lines on it. Many thanks Jacquie
If you use W&T SRs, you have to pick up the wraps so that they hide on the WS of the work when you knit past them. If you use German SRs (which I most likely used in this demonstration), you don't pick up wraps, you have a double stitch sitting *on* the needle (rather than a wrap under the needle) that is worked as one stitch (like a k2tog or p2tog), and the result looks good on either face of the fabric.
@@RoxanneRichardson Thank you so much Roxanne for such a prompt reply. I will unpick and use German SR.
Hi Roxanne, i used this technique snd it gave a more refined finish! Except i ended up w holes between bound off neck line and first live stitch (for 3 needle bind off) of shoulder seam. What could have gone wrong?
How would it work for the front of the sweater when you must bind off the neck very gradually
Hi Roxanne, that was a very informative podcast.
Question;
How do you make a stocking stitch cardigan button band lay flat
Usually, stockinette bands have several specific qualities (there are exceptions). First, they are knit in the same direction as the body of the sweater. They are knit to twice the width that you want the band to be, with an extra stitch in the center that creates a column of garter or RS purls. This is the fold line. Then the two selvedges of the band are sewn to the selvedge of the body. This not only prevents the band from rolling, but it gives the band more substance/thickness. When you knit the button holes, you have to knit them in both halves of the band and line them up when you fold the band. Ribbed bands will naturally lie flat, but they also create a thicker fabric with more substance than a single layer of stockinette, because the purls recede and the knits come forward.
Thank you much for your response.it was very helpful
Could you use Kitchener stitch to make the seam? Looking forward to watching your German short row videos.
While you *can* graft the shoulders closed, it's not always a good idea. The entire weight of the sweater hangs from the shoulders, so that's the place where you want less stretch and more stability than any other place in the garment. If the shoulders are grafted, the fabric can stretch too much widthwise and end up sliding down your arms.
Thank you so much for this video! It helped me a lot! Also, may I ask what program you used to make the chart early in the video?
I use StitchMastery to chart my knitting patterns. I got it from stitchmastery.com
@@RoxanneRichardson Thank you!
What a great tutorial, thank you !
Is this technique also suitable for making vest, or just for sweaters ?
If your vest has instructions for stair step bind offs, you can certainly make this substitution.
@@RoxanneRichardson So wonderful to get your quick feedback, a BIG thank🙏 from Germany😊
The pattern indicates shoulder slope and I suppose that your guidance may lead me to the result.
Thank you!!
You're welcome!
Another great video. I like the idea of short rows instead S of the step bo. Looks neater. I have a question, could you Kitchener the shoulders together?
@Lourdes Manners - Good question, Lourdes! I believe I’m correct in advising that using the Kitchener graft for the shoulder seam is not advisable. There won’t be enough strength in the seam to support the weight of the garment, so it would simply stretch lengthwise. I’m not an expert like Rox, though, so I’ll let her weigh in if this is incorrect.
Would this method work if I place my neck stitches on waste yarn to hold? It doesn't seem to. However, I am thinking that if I do it one shoulder at a time, like your other shaping video, it would work. The pattern already has me put the "non bound off" stitches on holder yarn for 3bo (shoulders) and later pick up for the collar (neck). If I map it out, I shall see ...
If the shoulders are separate, as for the front of a sweater, use the method shown in the other video. If the shoulders are not separated, as for the back of a sweater, use this method.
Also, why would you knit together for the three needle bo rather than purl if you have purl sides out? Or does it not make a difference?
The heads of the sts (which create the purl bumps) stay on the WS of the work where the chain BO is.
I am struggling i have watched over and over. I have 20 stitches and am supposed to bind off 10 each time. Do i start on knit or purl side.
If the original instructions were to bind off at the start of a RS row, then on the WS row prior to that is where you would do your first short row turn.