Chinese Hit & Miss Model Engine
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 15 ต.ค. 2024
- This is my hit and miss model engine from Banggood(China). Original plans are from David Krezel. Enjoy the video, any questions feel free to leave a comment. And yes I know I said steel even though it’s a brass sleeve.
Check out the update video of this engine here:
• Chinese Hit & Miss Mod...
Very nice job,including the cooling system!Great work on a standard engine!Runs real nice.
This is pretty awesome. I like the added features you did, especially the switch to keep the ignition from firing when the exhaust valve is held open. Nice job.
Thank you for painting yours and inspiring me to do the same. Just finished taking my Banggood engine all apart and painting all the blue anodized parts an authentic looking dark green gloss enamel. Looks SO much better, gives the aluminum that vintage cast iron look.
Yes sir that was the idea. Glad I could be of assistance.
I purchased one of these engines also, pretty good for the money spent.
I like the spark saver you have added!
Thanks for that information mate. My engine came with the odd looking plug and I’ve spent some time trying to find a better plug here in Australia but I couldn’t find one like the one you mentioned. Time to try eBay.
There are plenty of 1/4-32 spark plugs on eBay. I know they’re cheap from Chinese sellers which may be faster to get being in Australia compared to trying to get Chinese shipments to the us. lol. Good luck buddy.
Nicely done Pat. I have not gotten mine working as of yet. I am having ignition problems with mine. I have replaced the ignition module. How or what did you use for a High voltage return path for the spark plug? Neither of my ignition module housings were grounded to the negative lead of the battery. Thanks in advance.. Fred
I bought a couple spare ignition boxes because you know how Chinese electronics are. Plus at about $20 a pop it wasn’t anything major. But I have mine wired in the following fashion; ignition box power in going to the battery with a switch on the positive wire. The signal wire going to the Hall effects sensor with my momentary switch wired into the positive wire for the interruption while the exhaust valve is held open. The plug wire going to the plug. And an auxiliary ground wire going from one of the crank cap bolts to one of the screws that hold the ignition box together. That’s what I found out has work best for me after killing a few ignition boxes and sensors through trial and error. Keep in mind you could also be recieving bad electronics. Hope this helps.
@@patalexander4624 There is other information that the Mark 1 version (which this is) needs to have the earth wire on the ignition unit connected both to the metal body of the engine AND also the battery negative connector. I've seen more recent videos which make this clear and then the engine will start and run easily. I think the original release of these engines came without proper instructions about this.
I think that some have had problems with this engine because they did not ground the ignition box to the engine. Without a ground wire attached from the metal case of the ignition to the metal frame of the engine the spark will ground through the hall sensor and fail quickly.
Hello,
I didn't found any continuity (ohmmeter) between any CDI wire and ignition case so there is no internal connection and there is the risk a spark can occur inside (as when the spark plug lead is too far).
I grounded the engine to the negative battery terminal and on the bottom screw of exhaust valve rocker arm mount to make the high voltage path as short as possible and avoid spikes in Hall effect sensor.
Also you need the ground wire connected to the battery negative as well.
What kind of paint did use AND more important, did you use a surface primer?
I was also thinking about painting in British green or red.
Krylon spray paint believe it or not. No primer although if I were to do it again I would definitely use a primer.
I noticed you are using the upgraded spark plug as opposed to the long out of scale one that comes with the engine. Did you need to change any ignition details for this plug? It really looks alot better. Thanks for your info!!! Your red paint job really helps too.
That plug actually came with the engine but it’s identical to a common 1/4-32 spark plug used in rc applications. No changes were needed.
nice job.
what kind of seal is now on the sleeve back end ?
I want to do the same water cooling mods you did, but I concern about water leak
I sealed both ends of the sleeve inside the block with high temp silicone rtv.
Hi buddy,may I ask what you used for the exhaust ,especially the screw in section to engine?thanks
The exhaust pipe is just 1/4” brake line that was sanded and lightly polished. The cylinder head on the original blue version like I have here didn’t have a threaded port, it was just a press fit. My vertical one I also have a video on had the threaded head. I just drilled the hole larger to fit the brake line on that one.
Of all the TH-cam videos of this Eachine Hit 'n Miss and the updated version, yours is by far the best running one I have seen.
What is the rating of the roller lever micro switch you added?
I just got one of the updated ET1's and they have added the pulley with starting cord and the cylinder has a screw where your lubricator is located. I assume the screw can be removed to allow easy oiling of the cylinder. I have not run it yet. I will have to wait until Christmas.
Thank you. I have an updated video of this engine also if you haven’t seen it yet. The switches we just basic 12v 1a roller momentary switches. Nothing special.
I have not seen the updated models in person so I’m not sure about the screw on the cylinder but keep us updated on it. Thanks
Thanks for the information. I have just received my engine and the HT lead doesn't have a spark plug connector and the spark plug is the new style 1/4-32 like yours. Could you tell me how you connected yours?
I believe mine came the same way with just a little closed circle electrical connector on the end. For the time being I made it an open connector or used and open connector on the end of the wire and lightly clamped it around the spark plug with a little electrical tape to prevent arcing. But go to cncengines.com and order a 1/4-32 spark plug boot for a permanant setup. That’s where I got the silicone boot for mine. Works perfect.
@@patalexander4624 Thanks. I will try a split connector first.
Where did you get the clear right angle plug connector? Did you change spark plug type? The best video I have seen on TH-cam about this engine!
Steve
Thanks for the comment, the spark plug is a standard 1/4-32 spark plug available widely for many model engines. The silicone boot I purchased from an awesome little company in Ohio cncengines.com
Thumbs up on the vid. I ordered one a long damn time ago and still waiting to get it. I will be making some of the same changes to mine if I ever get it! lol
Like I said to V DEL, I ordered mine from en eBay seller instead of the banggood site and got them way before they became available on banggood. Seems like the person making these didn’t know what they were getting into selling such a decent model and such an awesome price haha. Good luck though feel free to contact me if you need any guidance👍🏼
I hope it shows up soon! I do have a couple questions. Where did you find the spark plug boot and is the exhaust threaded or pressed in? Thanks man
I ordered the spark plug boot from a nice little company in Ohio called S/S machine and engineering. Their website is cncengines.com. And the exhaust and the mixer are both pressed in.
Thank you for the info 👍🏼
Hi pat you've made a lovely job it can I ask if it's possible for you to do a video of how to make a cut off switch like the one you have made for yours thanks Steve
I believe if you watch the update video I mention how I wired it. If not, it’s very simple. A normally closed momentary switch wired in line with the red wire between the ignition box and Hall effects sensor on the side of the engine.
@@patalexander4624 thank you
sounds good also
I actually wanted to paint mine as well,just worried about putting the timing out when I put it together again,is there a certain way of putting it back together again without ruining the timing?thanks
Just be sure to pay attention to marks left by the set screws or make your own timing marks. Take LOTS of pictures. Familiarize yourself with how it all works.
Pat Alexander thank you kindly for your reply,much appreciated
Coleman fuel with just a little marvel mystery oil in it to make it Pink is all the oil these engines need.
Does it leak water after that major modification?
No sir. Check out the next video on this engine on my channel.
Thank u for the video. I just ordered the upgrade version this morning
I have made a couple of Red Wing models and I run them a lot slower than the one in the vid, and also expect them to fire only once before coasting. They have proper piston rings though - presumably the o rings are an issue?
Its a nice little engine though and a LOT cheaper than the Red Wings. I just wonder how long the O rings will last.
In the update video I posted after this one, the engine runs slower. I ended up modifying the governor setup to make it possible. That also helped with multiple fires before coasting. The o ring on the piston is no where near an issue on either engine I have actually. Both have plenty hours of runtime on them without having to change the o ring.
@@patalexander4624 Good to hear, and I suppose it isn't a problem to change the O ring eventually. They aren't expensive. I'll look at your other vid now. I posted mine as Manorfarmdenton if you're interested.
The design is called a Kerzel hit and miss engine. I have one also, I painted mine gray and fitted a curved crank guard to it. It drives a scratch-built oil pumpjack model. It can be seen at: th-cam.com/video/aBTQEgl-MnM/w-d-xo.html
Cool little stuff. Wish i can have one
FUNCIONA COM GASOLINA ??
So cool .
IS GASOLINE ??
Kleytons yes and no. Can run on gasoline but I use Coleman lantern fuel which is a white gas. It is just less prone to tarnishing and going bad and the odors are minimal.
Hello Pat, good video I like the mods you did. I'm thinking on getting one and make some kind of Rc Truck or something. I just discovered a detail that I don't like very much, are the piston rings rubber o rings? Or they have metal ones like in any combustion engine?
Thanks in advance.
I wouldn’t recommend using one on a vehicle model as that’s not what the original ones were designed for and likewise for the models of the originals. They were called “stationary engines” because they were used to power stationary farm and industrial equipment such as saw mills for the larger engines and household appliances like ice cream churners and washing machines for the smaller engines. And to answer your question, yes they use a single rubber o-ring as a piston ring. But I would not worry about it as they all come with a spare ring and mine has roughly 10 hours of runtime on it currently and the original o-ring looks just like new. As long as you have adequate lubrication and cooling, I don’t think there will ever be a problem with it.
@@patalexander4624 Thank you very much for the information, the vehicle thing was just to give it some kind of utility and having an interesting project to design is always nice, I like to admire it as it is, but you know, I already have made a clutch system, an anti vibration mount and a cooling system for the engine.
Thanks again.
Be sure to post a video when it’s completed or of your progress. I’d really like to see a unique project like that.
@@patalexander4624 I will! Btw do you think the engine has some useful power or at least enough torque to move itself? (with some gearing of course).
Anything is possible with some ingenuity and gearing.
how did you make exhaust .out of what kind of metal and what thread size thanks looks good
1/4” brake line polished and press fit.
Nice.
Hey she runs great sounds good to .
Nice job!
Hi Pat, super job looks and runs great I have bought the the new silver Chinese Hit and Miss off ebay 2 m90s and I am running it in coleman fuel some guys say on the oil mix 5% some say 15 to 16 to 1 - 2 stroke oil -or marvel mystery oil- which is a bunch about 8oz a gallon or 2 oz a quart I know it just lubes the O-rings mine has 2 ,I am in doubt what to run LOL,I fly rc gas planes and use Klotz technipate synthetic oil (2/stroke) 32 to 1 ( 4 oz a gallon)also on the small moving parts before a run -governor and moving parts minute drops of marvel mystery oil for 10 min runs with no water cylinder temp about 80 degrees, at 15 to 1 oil mix hard to start have to use a rc airplane starter to get it going good spark-great compression ,seems each youtuber guy has his own mixture lol any Ideas would deeply be appreciated I do like the thought of 75 to 1 that's reasonable for these speed demon high reving motors lol, Thanks Ike
These are very different from the models you’re used to. They are much like they’re full scale counter parts. They will run off pretty much anything that will ignite and only need a little lubrication. Always oil moving external parts as you do and just keep a small percent of some kind of 2 stroke oil, marvel mystery oil, or other synthetic oil in the fuel. Since they run at low rpms and little heat, almost anything with some viscosity will work. I lube all external moving parts with a cheap generic conventional 5w-30 motor oil including the drip Oiler that was added to the cylinder. Because I use the drip Oiler, I run close to 90-1 mix of Coleman fuel and 2 stroke oil to keep the oil splatter out of the exhaust to a minimum. If anything, it’s still over oiled. I could probably run with just the drip Oiler and straight Coleman fuel.
What is your ratio for your 2 stroke fuel oil mix?
Very little. Since the drip oiler for the cylinder was added, there is almost no need for oil mixed into the fuel. For anyone running the same model without the oiler modification I have done, I recommend about 75:1 being they are low rpm, and don't generate much heat.
Nice job! First question of possibly many more - what charger (specific make model etc) do you use to charge that 4.8v battery pack? Thanks!
Feel free to ask any questions you have. I have a lot of RC stuff and the plugs used on this engine are common Jst plugs used in all RC applications. So that battery pack is a rechargeable reciever pack that I know well and have used for many things so it fit perfect to use it for this engine also. The charger I use for it is just a basic NIMH battery charger that has a jst plug port. But there are adapters you can buy to use most chargers.
Does it have enough power to turn a 12 volt generator to charge a car battery....I would love to put one on my boat to charge the battery for my electric motor....You did a real great job.
I would say probably not haha. You could probably easily get 3-5v out of it but at that point I think it would be much easier to just carry around a small portable battery pack.
ciao, volevo sapere come hai collegato il tubo di scarico alla testa, e come hai piegato il tubo in modo che dreni così bene, con un raggio molto piccolo
Nice changes to your engine mate. Where did you get the spark plug, the standard engine comes with a long surface plug that looks terrible.
Thank you. It’s a standard 1/4-32 spark plug used widely in the r/c community. You can find them pretty easily on eBay and in hobby stores. My engine came with one though so yours might also.
so... whats the rpm of this little fellow?
Don’t have a hand held tachometer but if I were to guess I’d have to say probably around 2-300rpm.
What's the fuel mix you use?
I use Coleman lantern fuel (white gas) with just a splash of 2 stroke oil. And if you’d like to visibly see smoke you can add just a few drops of wd-40 for the effect. Since this video I have added a drip Oiler for the cylinder so now I run straight Coleman fuel and just put oil in the drip Oiler to keep it lubricated.
hit or miss i guess they never miss ha ! oops not that kind of hit or miss hahahaha sweet model buddy thanks for sharing . couldent help the joke i was crackin up .
Nice job on your engine. I ordered one a little over a month ago. Hopefully, it’ll ship soon.
I took a chance with an eBay seller instead of the banggood website. Had two of them from an eBay seller within a month, the banggood site has said they’re on backorder since as long as I’ve been looking into these. Thank you for the compliment though. Hopefully you get yours soon, they’re neat little engines for a reasonable price.
Super cool....this is the video I needed to be sure I wanted one. Ordering from Bangood.
2 questions...can you post links for the on/off switch with voltage....and that nice spark plug boot too...
Thanks...post more vids so we have something to watch while we wait for ours to arrive...
The on/off switch I ordered off amazon, just a basic three pin rocker switch. The voltage display you can also find easily on amazon or eBay but I ordered mine and the spark plug boot from a nice little company in Ohio that deals with model engine parts called S/S machine and engineering. Their website is cncengines.com
Thanks Pat...that thing is cool...I want one.
Nice improvements, can you tell me what size exhaust tube you used? I ordered mine in December I am still waiting.
Nice !
Thank you for tips.
I've ordered mine two days ago on banggood web site. Maybe a long time to wait before it arrives.
I ordered mine via eBay and they arrived before banggood even had any available.
Wow,
running very smooth and sounds great. Unfortunately mine arrived with a defective ignition box from Gearbest. I had only spark for a few seconds. I ordered a spare ignition box from AliExpress after Gearbest refunds me 23Usd. Working range should be 8-10 volts as in the sellers description. Are there two different types of the ignition system.? The original i got should work with 3.7 to 4.5 volt . How did you seal the watertank and the cylinder when you cut the hole in it?
Thanks for the very nice video.
Manfred
Mine arrived with a bad ignition box also. I was sent a replacement and I also ordered a few extra since they're cheap. Just burned up a second one a few days ago. The working voltage range varies depending on where you look. But everyone runs theirs on 3-4 AA batteries from what I've seen. Which is 4.5-6v. I wouldn't recommend even attempting 8-10v unless you want a small electrical fire on your hands. I feel even the 4.8v battery pack I use is too much. It produces a very powerful spark on just that (yes it hurts, shocked my self a few times with it). As for the water hopper when I milled it out I used automotive rtv silicone sealant/gasket maker to seal the cylinder sleeve and the water jacket. Worked so well I can't get the sleeve out anymore lol. If you do that with yours make sure you paint the now bare aluminum before you seal it because the aluminum will start to corrode with all the moisture.
Pat Alexander
Thanks for the fast reply. I made a exhaust similar to yours. I have silicon sealing in a tube up to 350 degrees Celsius. That should work and I also ordered a microswitch for the pushrod, good idea by the way. Ordered my spare ignition at AliExpress for 22 Usd. Is there a place to get it cheaper in case to buy some in the future?
Will try it first with a 18650 battery, if it doesn’t work 3xAAA batteries. Can’t expect to see and hear this little engine running. But it will take a few weeks from China. Thanks again and sorry for my English.
Regards,
Manfred.
No problem. That silicone will work but the engine will never get that hot. At running temperature(which often takes about 15 minutes of running to warm up completely) it can still be touched with your hand. I’d say with water in the hopper the sleeve temperature will never go over about 180 degrees F. As for the micro switch, wire yours in-line with the red power wire going to the Hall effects sensor. I initially wired mine in-line with the white signal wire but instead of stopping the signal it seemed to mess with it and send odd spark patterns to the plug. The power wire works much better. An 18650 battery runs about 4v which I feel should be enough for it to run but let me know how that goes. It may be just a hair too low on the voltage. I average 5v on the battery pack I’m using. As for the ignition box, I was buying them on eBay for about the same price so I don’t imagine them being any cheaper anywhere else.
Pat Alexander
Ok, and thanks again. I will connect it to the red one. If everything works, I will make a short video at youtube.
Manfred.
I have found the weak link to be the hall
Effect sensor,ordered 10 on eBay,
Must be soldered on,still fail but have spares.
Looking for alternative .
Love it!
Hey Pat very nice job on that engine I love it just ordered the new eachine one from banggood supposed to be here this week can you tell me more about the roller switch 2 wire or 3 wire switch would like to know how you hooked it up power or ground wire on ignition box and also like the exhaust mod what size brake line and is it threaded or pressed in any help you could give me will be appreciated would really like to make my run good for a while watch almost all the TH-cam videos but yours is the only one that makes it better
Thanks for the comment. The whole reason I made this video was because all the other videos don’t go into detail much. The switch is a three pin roller momentary switch that I wired with two wires in the normally closed position. I wired it in line with the signal wire from the Hall effects sensor(white wire). The exhaust I believe was 1/4 inch brake line. But double check that when you get your engine. The “muffler” that comes on it is just pressed in so pull that off and find a line that is close to the outer diam of the muffler. I know I had to file the outside of the line down a bit to get it to fit. Feel free to ask any other questions you have.
@@patalexander4624 thank you for the reply I really appreciate that mine is supposed to be here tomorrow glad to know that you use the hall effect wire I know in the reviews they had some issues with that sense or anyway I really appreciate the help with this the engine supposed to be pretty good to begin with and you made it a lot better and we're willing to share how you did it much appreciated
Chris, you said your engine is arriving tomorrow? How long ago did you order it? Thanks!
@@Case4072 I went back and checked it looks like I ordered mine on March 7th 2019 but mine is the eachine one is the silver one on banggood looks like someone else is remaking this engine to supposed to be a little better than the first one comes with the fuel tank already mounted and also already installed on a wooden box hopefully it's as good as the first one
Chris Tompkins thank you! I also ordered that one. I actually ordered both but I’m wondering if I should just cancel the blue version
Have you painted this Red, or did it turn up that colour?
Looks much nicer that silver or blue!!
Exhaust is much nicer too !!
It is the original blue version. I painted it red by using brush on acrylic paint.
How did you make that exhaust i have the same engine and building a similar exhaust i figured I'd have to pull the head
Exhaust that is on it is pressed in, that needs pulled out. Exhaust I made was made from steel brake line that was sanded and polished and bent to shape then pressed in just like the factory exhaust.
@@patalexander4624 oh your exhaust was pressed in, mine is threaded that's why I figured only way put it on is pull the head. Thank you, I guess I'll try to make a brass adapter to press a pipe like yours onto. Thank you
link please to buy the engine?
rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.com%2Fulk%2Fitm%2F223176199013
It is also available on the banggood website.
There is a newer silver version available on eBay and banggood also.
Nice idéa about the switch, it will save battery also i think?
Yes, would also save battery.
Hi Pat, very nice movie and good explanation.
Recently I received same little toy and until now I was not able to start the engine.
Connected the the ignition box and extra ground wire, installed 3 x AAA, have strong spark when turning, throttle valce about 1/4 turn open, used lighter fuel mixed with 2 stroke oil but engine will not start when turning. Is there a trick or need the needle valve to be adjusted. And yes, intake valve is opening when turning engine.
Where did you get the spark plug connector, can not find in internet.
bgrds Bernd
It’s a finickey little engine. Remove the cylinder head and lightly coat the cylinder and valve seats and stems with a medium oil (I use cheap 5w30 motor oil). That ensures a good deal. Other than that open the mixer needle about 1/4 turn and place your finger over the intake while slowly turning the engine over until you see fuel get to the mixer. Then just flick the flywheels over until it fires. Good luck. And I found the spark plug boot from a nice little company in Ohio called s&s engineering and machine. Their website is cncengines.com
@@patalexander4624
Thanks Pat for your fast reply. Tried your advice without success. Will see if I can get some help near by.
brgds Bernd
I just got an engine, the newer style, any tidbits of info on how to get it started has spark and compression, I do not see the intake moving and no fire
It’s a finickey little engine. Remove the cylinder head and lightly coat the cylinder and valve seats and stems with a medium oil (I use cheap 5w30 motor oil). That ensures a good deal. Other than that open the mixer needle about 1/4 turn and place your finger over the intake while slowly turning the engine over until you see fuel get to the mixer. Then just flick the flywheels over until it fires. Good luck
Thank you, I am starting to wonder if I have the timing right, that and I have been told that it turns clockwise and counter clockwise from different sources. either way what should ignition timing be set at, Ihad it running barely. then gotome unasked for help now I am trying to get it going again
The engine turns clockwise looking at it from the side with the governor weights. Unfortunately there are no timing marks on the engine so if you removed either of the timing gears you’ll have to re time the engine by some trial and error. The exhaust valve should open just before the piston hits bottom dead center and close right as it hits top dead center. As for the spark timing, the magnet should pass over the Hall effects sensor at just before top dead center on the power stroke.
Great job. What fuel are you using?
Thank you. I’m running it on Coleman lantern fuel with about 75:1 2 stroke oil.
How did you wire up the roller switch want to do that to mine thanks
The roller switch is wired normally closed and inline with the red power wire going to the Hall effects sensor. When the exhaust valve is open the switch opens and kills the power to the Hall effects sensor and therefore kills the spark.
Could you possibly make a video on that and how you did your roller switch
Shoot me an email address and I’ll take a quick video for you when I get a spare minute.
Pat Alexander jkane0698@gmail.com
can it run in reverse?
No.
Was this the blue engine when you got it,I think there more correct looking than the newer models with the flyball governor and helical gears
Yes.
Can't find it on Ebay. Does anyone have a seller name or link?
Name of them on eBay is something along the lines of “full metal combustion engine”. Otherwise they can be found on banggood.com. They are the cheapest on banggood but take the longest to get.
Yep. Coleman fuel mixed with 2 stroke oil something along the lines of 75:1. I recently added a drip Oiler to the cylinder so now there’s no need to add the 2 stroke oil. Might make another video of it soon.
ÓTIMO MOTOR MINI , BRASIL OK.
Great job. I purchased one of those a year ago, it runs well. I like your exhaust stack well done. th-cam.com/video/Cp0hapGDbCw/w-d-xo.html
Spice hotel tonight lagao
It's not Hit & Miss. It's Hit Or Miss😂
thought banggood was a porn site..
They are junk. Dont waste your money. Coils are trash. Cost ya another 100.00 for a good usa coil.
The supplied ignition coil is junk, I totally agree. But IMHO the rest of the model is excellent and WELL worth the price. Comparable hit and miss engine models cost thousands of dollars, and have their share of issues also.
I agree with mark.
Ok...no explanation about function... except you had many many questions before you bought this engine LMFAO. Get a proper hobby !
I have many hobbies. This video was made for people who understand what this is but had questions about this model. From your comment that tells me you are lacking in the knowledge of this stuff. And that’s fine. But don’t comment on my video bashing me because I didn’t explain how the engine works because people like you don’t know. If the purpose of this video were to explain how this engine works then the title would reflect that. But it doesn’t because as I said above, that’s not what the purpose of this video is. Purpose of this video was for people looking to buy this particular model which comes from China and has very limited information on it such as size or weight or how to set it up or anything else someone would expect when they’d be buying something like this. Those are some of the questions I had before I had bought it. Not “how does it work?” If you don’t know how this stuff works or even have the slightest mechanical mind to figure it out then you shouldn’t be watching videos like this in the first place.
Misspelled Troll, don't expect him to understand engines. He still doesn't understand the hot pocket his mom makes him.