Great video! Enjoyed watching it. For the DIYers out there, if you don't want your socket to get jammed on the overly tight fill and drain plugs, be sure to use a 6 point 24mm socket as opposed to a 12 point. In this application, a 1/2" drive is superior to a 3/8" drive. Less tool flexing means more twisting force directed to where it's needed most, the plug. Don't be afraid of using a 2 foot long breaker bar. A little penetrating fluid on the plugs will help a lot too. The OEM part number for both plug gaskets on the rear differential is 12157-10010 and yes they are "crush washers" as opposed to the stamped solid aluminum gaskets used on the manual transmission. Look at both sides of the gasket. One side will be smooth and the other side will have a seam. It is a standard operating procedure to put the seam against the plug flange and the smooth side against differential housing.
Personious k: If you don't have a 24mm socket, just use a 15/16 inch socket. It will actually fit the hex head of the drain plug a little better because it only measures 23.81mm.
Lol it wasn't me it was the bottle 😂😂👌. What a great guy.. You seem like a very honest man if I lived by you you'd be working on my Toyota Tundra.. Keep up the great work love your videos.. take care.
I was a bit skeptical when I first heard your accent. However, after listening and watching you, I understood you perfectly fine. Very informative ! You seem to be a very trustworthy man. 👍 good job
Like always Peter....great video. Funny sounds, "that wasn't me" lol 😄 Thank you for your informative videos and your professionalism on these "how to" videos. Danke.....Love your videos. God bless.
If you haven't, you should do a video on inspecting and changing the CENTER CARRIER BEARING. I never see videos on this neglected topic. As far back as about 8 months ago my 2008 5.7 Tundra with 178k which I purchased new in 2008 with 0 miles gradually started shifting and driving differently. I noticed intermittent vehicle vibration during acceleration and an occasional clunking noise coming from the transmission. Being that the truck is going on 15 years old, and even though I'd done 2 transmission flushes I was getting ready for a possible transmission rebuild. Then I received the good news!! The dealer did an oil and filter change along with a front brake job and I thought I'd mention to them that I felt an occasional vibration from the rear end and if they could check it out. They found the center carrier bearing was completely damaged. Rubber seal/boot torn. Bearing was so damaged that the entire drive train was bouncing up and down. To make a long story short, 590.00 later shifting and vibration problems gone. From what I gather, the center carrier bearing lasts roughly 120k and once the bearing is even slightly worn-out past a certain point it affects how the vehicle drives and shifts. Thank you for your time and the videos.
It might have been filled while only the rear of the truck was lifted with a floor jack. So, after you lift the ruck perfectly level, the old fluid overflows as if it was over filled. Your video was very helpful to me. Thank you.
If your filler bolt is stuck/stubborn, jacking up the rear passenger side of the truck and then removing the rear passenger wheel helps. Then adding a 3 inch extension on to the socket helps to clear the rear passenger side drum so that one can add a pipe onto the wrench for extra leverage, which can make loosening the filler bolt a cinch.
If the bolt head jams in the socket just retighten the the bolt to back the base until the socket lets go of the bolt head then undo again! No need to use a hammer.
But it was a used truck, and neither the owner or he knew until he'd drained it. I'm kind of in the same boat. I just bought a used truck and can't be sure what's been done by the previous owner. I suppose I'll need to drain the diff, transmission, etc. just to know.
@@edcones2948 it was obvious when he removed the fill plug, he didn’t need to drain it if it’s clean but whatever, i suppose I would have too, if it were my truck…and i did :)
hello Excellent explanation and thanks for sharing your knowledge. I need to change oil in my 98 manual 4x4 tacoma, I went to the agency and they only gave me 80w90 oil and they said that it applied for differential, transmission and transfer, I ask you, is that correct? Thank you very much for your comment
Sir you need to rotate the tires once you fill - you then reopen and you notice it's one inch low ,then you top off .Even pros don't fully fill the right way.
Como esta pregunto conpre una tacoma 2003 4×4 y creo que nunca le canbiaron los aceites de los diferenciales puedo canbiarlos por primera bes y no tener problemas con ellos despues y el tranfer por igual
Wonder why mines got 2 breathers on the rear diff. Why they put two on it... its got the locking rear diff and the actuator had a breAther with a tube that goes up by the plugs for the speed sensors by the frame.. but yet the other breather is just the little nub like the one shown in the video..
I have a 05 tundra with 126.000 miles. I’m not sure if i should change the rear diff oil because i don’t know if the previous owner did when recommended.!
The linkage to the right is for the electric differential lock that some (most?) Tacomas have. It's for straight line driving up to about 5 mph to help with traction. It's very nice to have on my 2wd Taco for boat ramps that might be slippery.
You seem like a very honest man. If I was looking at that truck for its owner, I’d have given him a realistic but large estimate for all the work needed from neglect, and then I’d make him an offer to buy it that he couldn’t refuse!
Love your channel, i do have a question, when I replaced the gear oils in my rear, front and transfer case, on my 2011 FJ cruiser, whats the deal with the 75w oil, Toyota charges an are and a leg for this oil?? I went with a german brand and things are working well , what is your recommendation for Transfer case oil, for my 2011 4runner sr5. 4X4 , thanks Steve
Is it unusual for the rear diff oil to look that clean ?,… the reason I ask, I just did mine at 69,000 miles for the first time ( I’m the original owner )…. and the oil that came out was very clean
Thanks for the very helpful video ! But, I have a question : After adding 2 1/2 quarts of differential oil, do I keep the brether valve open or close ? Another question : What is the breather valve for or what job does the valve do ???
The breather valve is a "free flowing" pressure equalizer. When the differential is working hard the fluid inside expands. This creates pressure and the breather valve lets that pressure of hot gasses escape. When the vehicle cools, the air outside can reenter the differential. That helps to preserve the wheel seals on each side of the differential. Hope this helps.....God bless!
Sir, use 75W-140 on both differentials and transfer case. It's got be about a 50k mile gear oil, but I change the rear every 30k miles. I only use the 4WD about 2k miles a year, so I've only changed the front differential and transfer case oil 3 times in 261k miles. Use 5W-50 full synthetic motor oil on that super reliable 2.7 Liter engine. The third generation 2.7 requires 0W-20 motor oil, so drain that stock engine oil at about 500 miles, and start using 0W-40 full synthetic. You sound German, I used to live in Gelnhausen, Hessen 3 jahre, 1979 to 1982.
U have the same habits as me with the oil grade switch....i do 500-1000km on the stock oil on a new vehicles. 😀 Hi from 🇨🇦. I use 5/40, 5/50, or 0/40( if we're getting extremely cold winters)
75W-90 would have been a satisfactory substitute. The operator was just following the Owners Manual specifications. It gets very hot in the southwestern states of the USA. The concern is that the lighter weight of the 75W-90 might cause some gear noise in the differential until the oil comes up to normal operating temperature.
@@tomheringer2047 Thanks for replying....I did not know why the 80W-90 was specified where other DIYers would just use 75W-90. I used 75W-90 in my Lexus GS where 80W-90 is specified. It was just easier to use 75W-90 as I wanted synthetic oil. I haven't noticed any gear noise at cold, but I'll listen for it in the coming colder months.
Rob Dutka: You made an excellent choice and won't have any adverse issues. I have an older Tacoma and use a conventional 80W-90 gear oil in the rear differential because it always had conventional oil in it and also because I wanted a gear oil without a limited slip friction modifier in the additive formula. My next Tacoma will definitely be running either Redline or Amsoil products. Engine oils and qear lubes have been getting thinner and less viscous for many reasons, but the biggest reason is that it takes a lot of horsepower to continually pump all that thick oil around. After all, engines, transmissions, transfer cases, and front and rear differentials are secondarily just acting as oil pumps which have a significant impact on fuel mileage.
@@tomheringer2047 I thought no I read somewhere that the 75-90 was designed to reduce parasitic drag to increase fuel mileage. But I get the southern heat thing.
Toyota Maintenance - I have a 15’ Tacoma 4.0L, I have code P144C and have tried everything recommended to fix this...new check valves, new gas cap, checked all hoses. Any idea what it could be that I could be missing? There is hardly any info on this code at all for Toyota’s.
Andrew Gibbins Another thing you can do is look on here (TH-cam) and find how to make a smoke machine to find your Evap leak. Old paint can or pickle jar are some examples. $15-$20 parts and you have a nice tool. I made one and have fixed a few cars with it.
Great video! Enjoyed watching it. For the DIYers out there, if you don't want your socket to get jammed on the overly tight fill and drain plugs, be sure to use a 6 point 24mm socket as opposed to a 12 point. In this application, a 1/2" drive is superior to a 3/8" drive. Less tool flexing means more twisting force directed to where it's needed most, the plug. Don't be afraid of using a 2 foot long breaker bar. A little penetrating fluid on the plugs will help a lot too. The OEM part number for both plug gaskets on the rear differential is 12157-10010 and yes they are "crush washers" as opposed to the stamped solid aluminum gaskets used on the manual transmission. Look at both sides of the gasket. One side will be smooth and the other side will have a seam. It is a standard operating procedure to put the seam against the plug flange and the smooth side against differential housing.
Tom Heringer also if your socket is ever stuck twist it the other way. When it tightens down the hex head bolt or nut will turn loose.
That was pretty helpful. Thanks.
awesome. thank you
Personious k: If you don't have a 24mm socket, just use a 15/16 inch socket. It will actually fit the hex head of the drain plug a little better because it only measures 23.81mm.
@@tomheringer2047 worked a treat! thanks!
Lol it wasn't me it was the bottle 😂😂👌. What a great guy..
You seem like a very honest man if I lived by you you'd be working on my Toyota Tundra..
Keep up the great work love your videos.. take care.
The gear lube actually looked really good. Obviously, the owner maintains it regularly.
I was a bit skeptical when I first heard your accent. However, after listening and watching you, I understood you perfectly fine. Very informative ! You seem to be a very trustworthy man. 👍 good job
A bit skeptical of the accent? Why 😂
Lol. Don’t travel much? Are you six years old?
@@Axel-uw5py remember no russian
Wow, what a thing to say
Bro that's really discriminatory is just an accent , you can understand everything that he said
Great video ! When he said, that wasn’t me that was the bottle lol got me good man! Thank you Love how vets are showing us the right way.
You are the best! Always my first go-to when I need video help with maintenance projects on my 02 Tacoma and 91 4Runner
Great teacher! I always want the details! Thank you sir!
Now this is a very fine man, with knowledge to share.
Too funny when you started putting the oil in. Thank for an awesome video!
Your my favorite toyota mechanic sir I got alot of respect for u
Man if you are in the MD area! So much love and knowledge, I would.sit in shop while my sequoia is being taken care of by a master
Like always Peter....great video. Funny sounds, "that wasn't me" lol 😄 Thank you for your informative videos and your professionalism on these "how to" videos. Danke.....Love your videos. God bless.
Absolutely excellent instruction. Thank you!
😂😂😂. Funnyman. Good video. I didn't know there was a breather plug. Now I do!
If you haven't, you should do a video on inspecting and changing the CENTER CARRIER BEARING. I never see videos on this neglected topic.
As far back as about 8 months ago my 2008 5.7 Tundra with 178k which I purchased new in 2008 with 0 miles gradually started shifting and driving differently. I noticed intermittent vehicle vibration during acceleration and an occasional clunking noise coming from the transmission. Being that the truck is going on 15 years old, and even though I'd done 2 transmission flushes I was getting ready for a possible transmission rebuild. Then I received the good news!! The dealer did an oil and filter change along with a front brake job and I thought I'd mention to them that I felt an occasional vibration from the rear end and if they could check it out. They found the center carrier bearing was completely damaged. Rubber seal/boot torn. Bearing was so damaged that the entire drive train was bouncing up and down. To make a long story short, 590.00 later shifting and vibration problems gone. From what I gather, the center carrier bearing lasts roughly 120k and once the bearing is even slightly worn-out past a certain point it affects how the vehicle drives and shifts. Thank you for your time and the videos.
I have a 2006 tundra and I’m going to replace that now so I don’t have any problems with it in the future btw I have 312.000k miles on the truck
lol...love this guy...you can see here...pretty cute...99' Taco..."
😂😂
It might have been filled while only the rear of the truck was lifted with a floor jack. So, after you lift the ruck perfectly level, the old fluid overflows as if it was over filled. Your video was very helpful to me. Thank you.
Excellent video. I will look for more of your videos. Thank you, well done.
Another great video, that fluid that came out looked pretty good. It must have recently been changed.
Thank you for your video 👍 it really helped out a lot
If your filler bolt is stuck/stubborn, jacking up the rear passenger side of the truck and then removing the rear passenger wheel helps. Then adding a 3 inch extension on to the socket helps to clear the rear passenger side drum so that one can add a pipe onto the wrench for extra leverage, which can make loosening the filler bolt a cinch.
Thanks for sharing this video,good useful information. Thanks Peter!
Very informative video. Keep up the good work and humor.
Very informative! Good bless and just continue spreading ideas!
Thanks, another great experience video. Thanks for sharing your knowledge. God bless you and your family and business.
Thank you for the very well detailed video.
Another good reason to Fluid Film your undercarriage! Fasteners come off like butter.
have you ever put that FF stuff on the rear axle housing of Gen1?
This is so easy work. Thanks for channel!
That’s the cleanest dif oil drain I have seen haha
That wasn't me!!!! That was the Bottle I swear!!! LMAO!!!!
Excellent video thanks you 🇺🇸🇺🇸
If the bolt head jams in the socket just retighten the the bolt to back the base until the socket lets go of the bolt head then undo again! No need to use a hammer.
Omg funny. Bottle noise reaction. Subscribed
Bien instruido muchas gracias.. i cant no eiring ow many cuart used 2.5 cuarter ????
Can I use 75w-110 hypoid Fully synthetic gear oil in my Land cruiser Front and Rear diff ???
Hey Peter, I just completed this maintenance on my 2004 Taco! Thanks for showing me how! 🛻🔧🛢
Thanks for sharing this video.useful information.
Hahaha that bottle part was gold!
Thanks for sharing this information.
Thanks for sharing this video
I'm new to tork wrenches. I was told to use the handle for more accurate tightening. True, or does it matter?
Thanks Petr!
Thanks Peter!
I noticed even though the breather valve turns it can still be clogged or hard to breath? 20 year valve? Replace?
Thano you for explaining what those oil numbers mean
I live your channel I have a 94 and 98 toyota trucks
Went to Autozone for crusher washers. Nothing. So where and what type of crusher washer are good for automotive?
That gear oil looked fresh and clear soon as the fill plug was removed. I would have not touched it for another 10-20K miles at least.
Oil is cheap, metal is expensive. Cheap insurance on a new vehicle purchase to make sure everything is good to go.
But it was a used truck, and neither the owner or he knew until he'd drained it. I'm kind of in the same boat. I just bought a used truck and can't be sure what's been done by the previous owner. I suppose I'll need to drain the diff, transmission, etc. just to know.
@@edcones2948 it was obvious when he removed the fill plug, he didn’t need to drain it if it’s clean but whatever, i suppose I would have too, if it were my truck…and i did :)
@@edcones2948 That’s partly why I make a list of everything I do to my truck and date it. It’s definitely a big selling point.
I had never changed yet is that bad 05 Tacoma .. am about to change it is that can be bad now?
My 2001 tacoma has the factory rear differential lock (button) Do I need to use a specific gear oil?
Why is the spare tire loose? Did the owner install it upside down?
question: does toyota use an additive that you mix with the oil??
How often should the diff oil be changed ?
Nice video~ UP UP UP!!!😂
Thank you....
hello
Excellent explanation and thanks for sharing your knowledge.
I need to change oil in my 98 manual 4x4 tacoma, I went to the agency and they only gave me 80w90 oil and they said that it applied for differential, transmission and transfer, I ask you, is that correct?
Thank you very much for your comment
Yeah sure, blame it on the bottle. :-)
Sir you need to rotate the tires once you fill - you then reopen and you notice it's one inch low ,then you top off .Even pros don't fully fill the right way.
Thank u
Great videos, thanks for sharing and keep up the good work!
hi sir nice video...i'm new user hilux LN166 manual...beside diesel oil...engine oil..what else oil need to replace..tq
If its cold out, warm your oil up with some warm water first. The oil is very thick.
That plastic container sounds like me after I drink a glass of milk
thanks!
slay!!!! thx💓
Como esta pregunto conpre una tacoma 2003 4×4 y creo que nunca le canbiaron los aceites de los diferenciales puedo canbiarlos por primera bes y no tener problemas con ellos despues y el tranfer por igual
that fluid was clean
Thats what I thought.
That doesn't mean it was the correct fluid. The customer recently purchased and wanted everything put right
Any issues after the Diff oil change, like bearings going out? My 97 4runner has 250k and has never been changed and wondering if I should do it.
Did you ever change it have you had any problems?
I was told to use GL4 is that correct ?
Is this the same for a 1993 Toyota Pickup?
HELP pls
Wonder why mines got 2 breathers on the rear diff. Why they put two on it... its got the locking rear diff and the actuator had a breAther with a tube that goes up by the plugs for the speed sensors by the frame.. but yet the other breather is just the little nub like the one shown in the video..
Looks like the spare tire is kind of loose and needs some tightening up.
Why you don't recommend 75W-90 fully synthetic? Would it be too thin and cause leaks?
No
75w-90 is for better mpg and very cold weather vs 80w-90 but both works great
I am in Utah as well are you close to slc? I am looking for a Toyota mechanic
I have a 05 tundra with 126.000 miles.
I’m not sure if i should change the rear diff oil because i don’t know if the previous owner did when recommended.!
Just drop and fill over your next two oil changes. Toyotas are pretty tough
Great video! What is that linkage to the right of the diff housing?
Yiuve helped me so much in workin on my 99 taco. Great videos
The linkage to the right is for the electric differential lock that some (most?) Tacomas have. It's for straight line driving up to about 5 mph to help with traction. It's very nice to have on my 2wd Taco for boat ramps that might be slippery.
It has very light rear leaf springs.
You seem like a very honest man. If I was looking at that truck for its owner, I’d have given him a realistic but large estimate for all the work needed from neglect, and then I’d make him an offer to buy it that he couldn’t refuse!
And you seem to be in need of an attitude adjustment, a SEVERE adjustment☠️
Relax, you can always use the vent tube to refill. I believe the fill torque is 22ft lbs
Where is your shop located?
Love your channel, i do have a question, when I replaced the gear oils in my rear, front and transfer case, on my 2011 FJ cruiser, whats the deal with the 75w oil, Toyota charges an are and a leg for this oil?? I went with a german brand and things are working well , what is your recommendation for Transfer case oil, for my 2011 4runner sr5. 4X4 , thanks Steve
An excelent option is Royal Purple Synchromax, used for manual Gear box and transfer case
Ja you better check your auspuf, its making funny noises 🥳
The 2021 Tacoma TRD 4X4 with automatic tranny take bit more them 4 quarts.
Tacoma 09 or lower you need friction modifier if you have a diff lock.
Is it unusual for the rear diff oil to look that clean ?,… the reason I ask, I just did mine at 69,000 miles for the first time ( I’m the original owner )…. and the oil that came out was very clean
Where are you located ? Wish you can do my truck. It’s hard to find honest Mechanics.
Thanks for the very helpful video ! But, I have a question : After adding 2 1/2 quarts of differential oil, do I keep the brether valve open or close ? Another question : What is the breather valve for or what job does the valve do ???
The breather valve is a "free flowing" pressure equalizer. When the differential is working hard the fluid inside expands. This creates pressure and the breather valve lets that pressure of hot gasses escape. When the vehicle cools, the air outside can reenter the differential. That helps to preserve the wheel seals on each side of the differential. Hope this helps.....God bless!
Also, the breather valve ensures water enters the differential when you submerge the vehicle while crossing a deep stream. Lol.
Never heard a rear diff fart before thats a first...hahaha.
I would trade you some east coast of Canada rust for that west coast Dust😎
Are you sure that wasn’t the saur kraut Peter?
Sir, use 75W-140 on both differentials and transfer case. It's got be about a 50k mile gear oil, but I change the rear every 30k miles. I only use the 4WD about 2k miles a year, so I've only changed the front differential and transfer case oil 3 times in 261k miles. Use 5W-50 full synthetic motor oil on that super reliable 2.7 Liter engine. The third generation 2.7 requires 0W-20 motor oil, so drain that stock engine oil at about 500 miles, and start using 0W-40 full synthetic. You sound German, I used to live in Gelnhausen, Hessen 3 jahre, 1979 to 1982.
U have the same habits as me with the oil grade switch....i do 500-1000km on the stock oil on a new vehicles. 😀 Hi from 🇨🇦. I use 5/40, 5/50, or 0/40( if we're getting extremely cold winters)
You need to move near me and take care of my truck!! HAHA
YOU need to be a man and do for yourself, it’s not enough this gentleman showed you how,...what a little #itch!
@@gregflores8959 Hey Greg, I'm 78..a Navy Vet....Graduate mechanical engineer. Hope you live to be my age with my success!
Pressure release is necessary in life.😮
I believe the 75W-90 would have been ok to use.
75W-90 would have been a satisfactory substitute. The operator was just following the Owners Manual specifications. It gets very hot in the southwestern states of the USA. The concern is that the lighter weight of the 75W-90 might cause some gear noise in the differential until the oil comes up to normal operating temperature.
@@tomheringer2047 Thanks for replying....I did not know why the 80W-90 was specified where other DIYers would just use 75W-90. I used 75W-90 in my Lexus GS where 80W-90 is specified. It was just easier to use 75W-90 as I wanted synthetic oil. I haven't noticed any gear noise at cold, but I'll listen for it in the coming colder months.
Rob Dutka: You made an excellent choice and won't have any adverse issues. I have an older Tacoma and use a conventional 80W-90 gear oil in the rear differential because it always had conventional oil in it and also because I wanted a gear oil without a limited slip friction modifier in the additive formula. My next Tacoma will definitely be running either Redline or Amsoil products. Engine oils and qear lubes have been getting thinner and less viscous for many reasons, but the biggest reason is that it takes a lot of horsepower to continually pump all that thick oil around. After all, engines, transmissions, transfer cases, and front and rear differentials are secondarily just acting as oil pumps which have a significant impact on fuel mileage.
@@tomheringer2047 I thought no I read somewhere that the 75-90 was designed to reduce parasitic drag to increase fuel mileage. But I get the southern heat thing.
Effects of Sauerkraut.
What kind of gear oil did use in the transmission
Auto-decron vi -5.5. Qts
Manual-same shit he used in the diff.. as well as transfer case is same shit..
funny noises make me laugh. :)
Toyota Maintenance - I have a 15’ Tacoma 4.0L, I have code P144C and have tried everything recommended to fix this...new check valves, new gas cap, checked all hoses. Any idea what it could be that I could be missing? There is hardly any info on this code at all for Toyota’s.
Target the Evap canister check purge valve. Test for electric AND vacuum failure.
Sir Sweetness thank you for your reply, I have checked and have even gone as far as replacing it with a new OEM part. Same with the evap vent valve.
Andrew Gibbins
Another thing you can do is look on here (TH-cam) and find how to make a smoke machine to find your Evap leak. Old paint can or pickle jar are some examples. $15-$20 parts and you have a nice tool. I made one and have fixed a few cars with it.
Sir Sweetness thanks for the recommendation, I will try that.
Corrosion around gas filler neck?
Isn’t that bottom leaf turned the wrong way? Love your channel btw!
Omg it totally looks like it
You could use WD40 on the bolt
Excuse you lol 💩. Good video.