Watch this before you glue that tote!
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 9 ก.พ. 2025
- In this video I will take a “close look” at the surfaces of a broken tote and a the surface of a freshly cut rosewood tote and talk briefly about the integrity of the glue surface.
To the point, it’s worth taking a minute to evaluate the surface you’re about to glue. These are working tools and the forces being applied to a hand plane tote can be severe, so let’s do everything we can to get the best possible bond. Prepare the surface before you glue.
Thanks Gordon, very enlightening. Interesting reading some of the comments. One misses 100% of what one doesn’t look for or what one doesn’t listen for. Thanks again.
Makes sense to me!
I enjoy watching your videos, I've repaired/restored a few Stanley bench planes for myself and friends and have learned a thing or two from you. Thank you!
Thank you for the kind words John. I’ll just keep sharing!
"I went from a 100 year old crack that has been used to a brand new Brazilian." LOL TAKE THAT OUT IF CONTEXT 5:13
Interesting video, what about using epoxy rather than wood glue, to repair an old break without preparation? Thanks from Canada
Absolutely! Depending on the material, the age, and the intent of the restoration/repair, I will use AR (aliphatic resin) 2 part epoxy, CA (cyanoacrylate) and also PVA (polyvinyl acetate). In layman’s terms that’s Titebond, epoxy, crazy glue and gorilla glue. Epoxy is tintable and works very well in the form of 5min set, or 30min set.
@@gordonaddison444 What you think of using J-B Weld?
@@rvelandi1919 I have used J-B weld on other things….I’ve used their grey 2/part. I’ve not used J-B on totes or knobs mostly because I’m looking for a certain viscosity and I want to tint or stay crystal clear. I’m sure they have a clear product (?) but I haven’t tried it.
Can you glue a new break without prep? My No 5 fell of the bench and lost it's horn!
If it’s a fresh break, absolutely! Some of the totes I restore have been broken for years and have all kinds of contaminates so I prep to “clean” and find open pores so the epoxy can bite.
9 minutes plus and I didn't learn a thing about surface preparation. Just microscopic views of different woods. I doubt I will watch a second video of yours.
02:26-02:48, 06:00-06:24, 06:40-06:55. There are different philosophies/approaches to _how_ to prep the surface, especially of a clean break where the two faces even if irregular or jagged fit together really nicely (where one might be tempted to do nothing but apply glue and clamp, and it's not hard to find forum posts and YT vids showing or actively recommending exactly this). But the basic issue controlling whether you can get a good glue bond is the cleanliness of the wood surface.
This is precisely why old breaks and new breaks can't be treated as though they're the same situation, regardless if the surfaces interlock equally well and superficially (i.e. to the naked eye) they look similar they're not, as the video shows with great clarity.
Oh Randy, thanks for your worldly insights.