love the video thanks very much, I'd also like to add from my own experience using the Elegoo Neptune 2, my filament was also clogging, and I didn't know how, I knew there was a fan where the nozzle at but I didn't know there were 2 fans in there. ..i dont know how i missed that honestly, but one of the fans wasn't working, as soon as i changed that the heat sink was abled to get the sufficient cooling and everything were back to normal.
This was the only thing changed and it made my first successful part after 7 clogs in a row an hour into my print. As you said, it depends on your setup..
My printer never clogged but I was getting leaks. So I displaced the threaded part that the heat sink slides on to so that it butted up against the nozzle. Now the dang thing clogs. I guess now too much heat is transferring into the upper area. These things are Soooo finicky. But this video helped explain what is happening. I will start by turning the temps down, then insulating. Thanks.
another really important thing is dust, if the fan sucks in too much dust and it collects in the heat sink the efficiency drops massively so make sure to clean that out
I bought a new printer. It worked fine for a few prints, now I can't print anything for longer than 40 minutes, because the nozzle will always clogg. Its frustrating to no end! I will try out the things you suggested though.
Lower your retraction distance. The filament being retracted every 2 seconds causes clogging. Increase your fan, keeping just the hotend hot, and the "fins" cool.
@@Lorian667 I don't know, maybe. Haven't seen that before. Just do whatever Prusa does, they are the best when it comes to hardware and tech. They use an E3D V6 hotend i think, no wrap or anything on the hotend, just fans blowing. shop.prusa3d.com/en/mk3mk3s/932-assembled-hotend-e3d-mk3s.html
Thanks for the video, I do 1 to 1 and a half day print on my TEVO Tornado gold model. the heating insulation on the hot end broke and was OK for a while, a few days ago started printing fine for about 3 or 4 hours on the print then starts to come really stringy and looks like a curly hair just like the part you showed. Total of 3 prints did that and not able to do a full print. I'm going insulate the hot end so the heat does not go up, I think that is happening. I never had that issue before. Thanks for the info.
Sub'd, Thanks man. This damn printer I have can do a single print that has a lot of retraction without clogging. Hoping I can implement these techniques and finally get some decent prints...
I wouldn't think so, but not 100% sure. The hotend is up around 400 deg F. Not sure if 60 deg or 80 deg room temperature makes that big of a difference.
Yeah I was thinking that would be the case, though maybe it could cause trouble 'cause of the fans not being as effective, at least that's my worry Great vid btw
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when room temperature is around 45 celsius, i'm pretty sure yes
Requesting assistance - I'm having clogging issues with esun PLA+. I've used this before and had great results once I figured out settings on my Ender 5. Recently, I've been doing longer print jobs with another spool and I've had to change the nozzle 5 times. Some of the prints don't even finish the 1st layer. I am printing at 210-215 & sometimes 220 (range of filament is 205-225), Bed - 70-75 (helps prevent warping), Nozzle - 0.4, Speed - 80 mm/s, Layer Height - 0.2, retraction - 80 mm/s & 6 mm.... I level the bed for every print, since I'm changing the nozzle & bed temp depending on what I'm printing. But the clogging is killing me, atm!! Any assistance would be greatly appreciated!
Retraction should be as little as possible to take care of stringing and as fast as possible without the filament slipping in the extruder. Should be well under 2mm for direct drive setups and 2-6mm for bowden. Default speeds are usually around 40mm/s. I run 2.5mm at 80mm/s on a prusa i3 reprap with bowden.
During printing with oiled filament... Aren't any problems with sticking together on printed item? I think that better to use any synthetic oil than edible, because most of organic will burn with 200C and more in nozzle...
Dude, I owe you $344.99 because that’s how much you saved me, I didn’t have my fan hooked up for circulation so it was clogging like crazy. Tysm for helping me!!
Wish I watched this earlier. I figured out what the issue was eventually with my setup. When I turn off retraction, it never cloggs proving my diagnosis. Will experiment a bit with less retraction and see what happens. Will also sand end of PTFE tube and see if that solves the problem. Thanks for this vid.
Well.. i have a anycubic i3 mega and it was working fine until it clogged, i had to change the ptfe tube.. and now i can't print anything, it keeps clogging, now i know why, i'll try to isolate the uper part, i guess it's getting really hot too...
Ya i found that most of my clogs were when the filament was getting hot, being retracted a lot, and getting clogged in the area above the heatbreak. Lowering your retraction distance and speed will help too.
Srsly best tutorial about clogging, made me realise that I have so many things didn't do in the correct way. U got my subs and like, really thank you. I havent tried it but my symptoms is totally the same as what is shown in this video. I have never success in printing PLA, every print was clogged.(beginner here, just built my very own one)
I never comment on videos but this video thoroughly explained my issue. Found out my print file had the fan to 0 when I would hit print causing it to heat up prematurely. Been trying to figure this issue out for hours now and 1min in fixed my issue. Thanks a bunch!
men, i kust lost a week of work because that problem, i am from argentina and i searche, read and see all the **** blogs and videos in spanish and none giveme a solution buy i simple search in english my problem and solve my problem in 3 min of your video. thx. a lot of thx jajaj
Thermal paste for CPU's is supposed to draw heat away from the CPU to the cooler this would be contrary to what you are describing you don't want to create a thermal conductive path to your heat break, also many bowden style hot ends the bowden tube does in fact mate up to the nozzle so cutting the tube flush and ensuring that it is flush with the nozzle is a preventative approach to avoiding clogs
It's because it is drawing it away and displacing it to the heat sink as oppose to when you put a heatsink on a CPU without paste and the thermal energy doesn't transfer, resulting in an overheated CPU. Dude he explained it if you were listening.
Your voice and delivery are like a breath of fresh for an American in this world of too harsh accents and too rapid speech. I dearly love our British, Aussie and Kiwi cousins and their usually clear enunciation. But occasionally it is a little thick (like Cockney) and slows my understanding of a technical message; our deep South patois can be a problem for me as well. Don't get me wrong--I am very grateful for the efforts of anyone who is making an effort to provide information to me regardless of an accent! Your well-done and informative video underscores what I'm trying to say! Please keep up the good work.
Best video yet on clogging. Countless videos about nozzles but that's not my problem. Many thanks.
I use a pencil sharpener to taper off the ptfe tube
Brilliant.
that 10/10 tip fixed it for me, finally I am able to print, thank you very much you saved me a lot of pain.
love the video thanks very much, I'd also like to add from my own experience using the Elegoo Neptune 2, my filament was also clogging, and I didn't know how, I knew there was a fan where the nozzle at but I didn't know there were 2 fans in there. ..i dont know how i missed that honestly, but one of the fans wasn't working, as soon as i changed that the heat sink was abled to get the sufficient cooling and everything were back to normal.
This was the most helpful video on this subject on the internet. Thanks!
10mm rectraction ist a lot and might cause problems, this should not be a general recommendation and depends on your printed / setup
This was the only thing changed and it made my first successful part after 7 clogs in a row an hour into my print. As you said, it depends on your setup..
I think you just solved all my problems xD
My printer never clogged but I was getting leaks. So I displaced the threaded part that the heat sink slides on to so that it butted up against the nozzle. Now the dang thing clogs. I guess now too much heat is transferring into the upper area. These things are Soooo finicky. But this video helped explain what is happening. I will start by turning the temps down, then insulating. Thanks.
another really important thing is dust, if the fan sucks in too much dust and it collects in the heat sink the efficiency drops massively so make sure to clean that out
I bought a new printer. It worked fine for a few prints, now I can't print anything for longer than 40 minutes, because the nozzle will always clogg. Its frustrating to no end!
I will try out the things you suggested though.
Lower your retraction distance. The filament being retracted every 2 seconds causes clogging.
Increase your fan, keeping just the hotend hot, and the "fins" cool.
@@DaveWirth I will try it out, thanks!
Can I use Aluminum Foil (like for keeping food warm) as isolation for the hot end?
@@Lorian667 I don't know, maybe. Haven't seen that before. Just do whatever Prusa does, they are the best when it comes to hardware and tech. They use an E3D V6 hotend i think, no wrap or anything on the hotend, just fans blowing. shop.prusa3d.com/en/mk3mk3s/932-assembled-hotend-e3d-mk3s.html
Thanks for the video, I do 1 to 1 and a half day print on my TEVO Tornado gold model. the heating insulation on the hot end broke and was OK for a while, a few days ago started printing fine for about 3 or 4 hours on the print then starts to come really stringy and looks like a curly hair just like the part you showed. Total of 3 prints did that and not able to do a full print. I'm going insulate the hot end so the heat does not go up, I think that is happening. I never had that issue before.
Thanks for the info.
Sub'd, Thanks man. This damn printer I have can do a single print that has a lot of retraction without clogging. Hoping I can implement these techniques and finally get some decent prints...
Thank you your information to solution problem
another tip is to increase the print speed so that the filament does not have enough time to heat up and deform before being pushed to the hot zone.
So quick question then, is there more risks of clogging on very hot days than in cold days?
I wouldn't think so, but not 100% sure.
The hotend is up around 400 deg F.
Not sure if 60 deg or 80 deg room temperature makes that big of a difference.
Yeah I was thinking that would be the case, though maybe it could cause trouble 'cause of the fans not being as effective, at least that's my worry
Great vid btw
when room temperature is around 45 celsius, i'm pretty sure yes
Requesting assistance - I'm having clogging issues with esun PLA+. I've used this before and had great results once I figured out settings on my Ender 5. Recently, I've been doing longer print jobs with another spool and I've had to change the nozzle 5 times. Some of the prints don't even finish the 1st layer. I am printing at 210-215 & sometimes 220 (range of filament is 205-225), Bed - 70-75 (helps prevent warping), Nozzle - 0.4, Speed - 80 mm/s, Layer Height - 0.2, retraction - 80 mm/s & 6 mm.... I level the bed for every print, since I'm changing the nozzle & bed temp depending on what I'm printing. But the clogging is killing me, atm!!
Any assistance would be greatly appreciated!
Thank You very much for the support! Great job :-)
Nice informative video. I will try out the things you said. Thank you. Liked & Subscribed! :)
Sir 3rd problem is done for me More time so give video for solve it pls
What kind of oil?
This is boss!
Impossible to be more clear! Thank you for such amazing explanation!
Retraction should be as little as possible to take care of stringing and as fast as possible without the filament slipping in the extruder. Should be well under 2mm for direct drive setups and 2-6mm for bowden. Default speeds are usually around 40mm/s. I run 2.5mm at 80mm/s on a prusa i3 reprap with bowden.
This video and those tips are simply GOLD. Thanks mate, excellent content here. Thanks again.
During printing with oiled filament...
Aren't any problems with sticking together on printed item?
I think that better to use any synthetic oil than edible, because most of organic will burn with 200C and more in nozzle...
Dude, I owe you $344.99 because that’s how much you saved me, I didn’t have my fan hooked up for circulation so it was clogging like crazy. Tysm for helping me!!
Wish I watched this earlier. I figured out what the issue was eventually with my setup. When I turn off retraction, it never cloggs proving my diagnosis. Will experiment a bit with less retraction and see what happens. Will also sand end of PTFE tube and see if that solves the problem. Thanks for this vid.
Other things to look at. Clogged nozzles, Clogged extruders, overworked/overheated stepper motors. Bad extruder gear or tension. Damaged PTFE tube.
I fixed my heat creep by printing a new fan shroud
Well.. i have a anycubic i3 mega and it was working fine until it clogged, i had to change the ptfe tube.. and now i can't print anything, it keeps clogging, now i know why, i'll try to isolate the uper part, i guess it's getting really hot too...
Ya i found that most of my clogs were when the filament was getting hot, being retracted a lot, and getting clogged in the area above the heatbreak. Lowering your retraction distance and speed will help too.
Srsly best tutorial about clogging, made me realise that I have so many things didn't do in the correct way. U got my subs and like, really thank you. I havent tried it but my symptoms is totally the same as what is shown in this video. I have never success in printing PLA, every print was clogged.(beginner here, just built my very own one)
Thanks bro!
Awesome thank you for quick and precise info
I never comment on videos but this video thoroughly explained my issue. Found out my print file had the fan to 0 when I would hit print causing it to heat up prematurely. Been trying to figure this issue out for hours now and 1min in fixed my issue. Thanks a bunch!
Thank you so much!
this is exactly what i needed your a legend
Great video, thanks!
Amazing Tips !
men, i kust lost a week of work because that problem, i am from argentina and i searche, read and see all the **** blogs and videos in spanish and none giveme a solution buy i simple search in english my problem and solve my problem in 3 min of your video. thx. a lot of thx jajaj
Same!!
Thanking for sharing👍😀
Thermal paste for CPU's is supposed to draw heat away from the CPU to the cooler this would be contrary to what you are describing you don't want to create a thermal conductive path to your heat break, also many bowden style hot ends the bowden tube does in fact mate up to the nozzle so cutting the tube flush and ensuring that it is flush with the nozzle is a preventative approach to avoiding clogs
It's because it is drawing it away and displacing it to the heat sink as oppose to when you put a heatsink on a CPU without paste and the thermal energy doesn't transfer, resulting in an overheated CPU. Dude he explained it if you were listening.
Left a like because you helped me connect my ear buds to my I pad through bluetooth
Your voice and delivery are like a breath of fresh for an American in this world of too harsh accents and too rapid speech. I dearly love our British, Aussie and Kiwi cousins and their usually clear enunciation. But occasionally it is a little thick (like Cockney) and slows my understanding of a technical message; our deep South patois can be a problem for me as well. Don't get me wrong--I am very grateful for the efforts of anyone who is making an effort to provide information to me regardless of an accent! Your well-done and informative video underscores what I'm trying to say! Please keep up the good work.