I fitted a filter conversion to my T140V over 20 years ago, bought from Charlie's Triumph in Bristol, UK. It uses the paper element originally designed for BSA B25/B50, etc, but I modified mine to take 2 of these stacked one on top of the other to double the surface area and reduce the risk of restricted oil flow as the oil becomes dirty.
Contact breaker oil seal in timing cover round the wrong way? closed side should face towards the contact breakers spring side towards the engine. Crank seal closed side towards the engine. Watch that you don't get oil leaking in the points
You are correct, he has installed the seal the wrong way round. It just goes to show that having a manual and consulting it pays dividends. The follow link points to a web page that uses a Triumph timing cover similar to this one and uses it as an example. jrcengineering.com/technical-support/install-guides/which-way-do-i-install-the-oil-seal/
I think he says it would be near impossible to get it on otherwize. We all know nothing is impossible but is it crucial to orient the seal? I mean a seal stops the oil right?
@@pauliebots Yes the lip should be facing inward. I have found from experience that on that particular joint it doesn't seem to matter. it won't leak either way. Ask me how I know.
Here is a link that will answer your questions. Only difference from a 650 to a 750 is that a 750 has a bigger bore size and a shorter stroke and Five speed instead of Four. Hope this helps. th-cam.com/video/tWCdHG0pz3o/w-d-xo.html
650 and 750 actually have the same stroke (82mm), the only difference is the bore size (71 and 76mm, although some early 750s had 75mm bore, giving 724cc capacity).
Ben, at 2:27..why don't you put some of that brown loquid gasketstuff on the top of the uppergasket? Instead you put some inside around the gaze where the oil runs. why?
I cut my own base plate gasket from 1/32" (0.8mm) gasket paper and install it with just a smear of grease on both surfaces to prevent it from sticking next time it is removed (I keep a template cut from thick card for marking out the new gaskets). It has never leaked in over 20 years and the joint faces clean off with just a wipe instead of having to remove the sealant every time (I only need 1 each time because the oil filter conversion eliminates the top hat strainer).
Good video work. Annealing softens while quenching hardens so why would the washers need to be hardened? I have heard people suggest both ways but I'm still confused, which is best and why.
Hey, Ben! So, not to get all emotional on ya, but my father just passed away 3 weeks ago and left me a 1978 Bonnie T140V...Absolutely beautiful bike...After a little bit of cranking on, I got it running...Now, you have to know I am a younger guy, and know a little bit about a lot, but not at all an expert like yourself...this beautiful machine has me stumped...I changed the oil to a 20w50, changed the spark plug, cleaned out the tank and replaced the bad gas, and checked the gaskets...Everything seems to be okay, but I still keep getting a thick gray/white smoke out the exhaust and up by the head...What would you suggest my next move be?
Most likely the piston rings aren’t seating. If you can take it for a ride and see if that fixes it. Check compression to see if pistons are worn or valves aren’t seating. I would bet it’s the rings or pistons but you’ll never know! Great bikes!
@@bonkeydollocks1879 seating is a term used in the engines business to make sure the ring is preventing combustion gasses from blowing by the rings when is properly “seated” against the cylinderbore by means of proper engine break in. Hope that helps.
@@bonkeydollocks1879 feel free to add any clarification or experience that would enhance this subject. That’s what I tried to do with these videos. I am not a know it all and always open to ideas and suggestions!
It could be due, at least in part, to a build up of condensation and combustion residue in the silencers (mufflers), particularly if it still has the original "cigar" pattern fitted. In my experience, these take a long run to heat up enough to disperse moisture from the exhaust, which is why they rot out from the inside. My solution, along with many other owners, was to replace them with the Norton style "peashooters", which are available with Triumph mount. They have a much more straightforward gas flow, so suffer less from moisture build up, and they they sound nicer!
Thanks for saying which oil these bikes are designed for. Can you tell me exactly what the pressure relief valve does? How do you know it's bad? And what happens if you run the bike with a bad one? If you answer...thanks.
The pressure relief valve is designed to maintain a certain oil pressure throughout the operating range and oil temperature. The oil pressure is a function of the spring rate of the spring. The most common failure mode I've seen is a stuck plunger. This could result in a too high oil pressure or too low. Both are detrimental to the engine causing leaking seals or oil starvation. Check with oil pressure gauge.
My triumph used to leak oil like that even with all the plugs screwed in!!!
Good idea to cover the spark plug hole while you are doing this , don’t want to drop a washer down there !
You can buy a conversion kit that uses a proper oil filter on Ebay just doing mine now for my bobber build
I fitted a filter conversion to my T140V over 20 years ago, bought from Charlie's Triumph in Bristol, UK. It uses the paper element originally designed for BSA B25/B50, etc, but I modified mine to take 2 of these stacked one on top of the other to double the surface area and reduce the risk of restricted oil flow as the oil becomes dirty.
Contact breaker oil seal in timing cover round the wrong way? closed side should face towards the contact breakers spring side towards the engine. Crank seal closed side towards the engine.
Watch that you don't get oil leaking in the points
You are correct, he has installed the seal the wrong way round. It just goes to show that having a manual and consulting it pays dividends. The follow link points to a web page that uses a Triumph timing cover similar to this one and uses it as an example. jrcengineering.com/technical-support/install-guides/which-way-do-i-install-the-oil-seal/
I think he says it would be near impossible to get it on otherwize. We all know nothing is impossible but is it crucial to orient the seal? I mean a seal stops the oil right?
@@pauliebots Yes the lip should be facing inward. I have found from experience that on that particular joint it doesn't seem to matter. it won't leak either way. Ask me how I know.
Love the video, but why oh why are you using a claw hammer ???
Here is a link that will answer your questions. Only difference from a 650 to a 750 is that a 750 has a bigger bore size and a shorter stroke and Five speed instead of Four.
Hope this helps. th-cam.com/video/tWCdHG0pz3o/w-d-xo.html
650 and 750 actually have the same stroke (82mm), the only difference is the bore size (71 and 76mm, although some early 750s had 75mm bore, giving 724cc capacity).
Ben, at 2:27..why don't you put some of that brown loquid gasketstuff on the top of the uppergasket? Instead you put some inside around the gaze where the oil runs. why?
Hallo Kees: I put some on the bottom of the frame but it didn’t make it in the video. Ciao!
I cut my own base plate gasket from 1/32" (0.8mm) gasket paper and install it with just a smear of grease on both surfaces to prevent it from sticking next time it is removed (I keep a template cut from thick card for marking out the new gaskets). It has never leaked in over 20 years and the joint faces clean off with just a wipe instead of having to remove the sealant every time (I only need 1 each time because the oil filter conversion eliminates the top hat strainer).
Good video work. Annealing softens while quenching hardens so why would the washers need to be hardened? I have heard people suggest both ways but I'm still confused, which is best and why.
Putting red hot copper in water softens it. Copper is different.
Its not really quenching. Its just cooling it off in water. Or you can just let it air dry.
What would you have done if the oil was not feeding the big ends? Complete rebuild?
Yes. It would mean splitting the cases and cleaning the sludge trap in the flywheel.
@@benvdh9658 thanks
Hey, Ben! So, not to get all emotional on ya, but my father just passed away 3 weeks ago and left me a 1978 Bonnie T140V...Absolutely beautiful bike...After a little bit of cranking on, I got it running...Now, you have to know I am a younger guy, and know a little bit about a lot, but not at all an expert like yourself...this beautiful machine has me stumped...I changed the oil to a 20w50, changed the spark plug, cleaned out the tank and replaced the bad gas, and checked the gaskets...Everything seems to be okay, but I still keep getting a thick gray/white smoke out the exhaust and up by the head...What would you suggest my next move be?
Most likely the piston rings aren’t seating. If you can take it for a ride and see if that fixes it. Check compression to see if pistons are worn or valves aren’t seating. I would bet it’s the rings or pistons but you’ll never know! Great bikes!
Ben VDH okay, will do...Thanks so much!! Stay safe
@@bonkeydollocks1879 seating is a term used in the engines business to make sure the ring is preventing combustion gasses from blowing by the rings when is properly “seated” against the cylinderbore by means of proper engine break in. Hope that helps.
@@bonkeydollocks1879 feel free to add any clarification or experience that would enhance this subject. That’s what I tried to do with these videos. I am not a know it all and always open to ideas and suggestions!
It could be due, at least in part, to a build up of condensation and combustion residue in the silencers (mufflers), particularly if it still has the original "cigar" pattern fitted. In my experience, these take a long run to heat up enough to disperse moisture from the exhaust, which is why they rot out from the inside. My solution, along with many other owners, was to replace them with the Norton style "peashooters", which are available with Triumph mount. They have a much more straightforward gas flow, so suffer less from moisture build up, and they they sound nicer!
Merci pour ta vidéo
You’re welcome!
Thanks for saying which oil these bikes are designed for. Can you tell me exactly what the pressure relief valve does? How do you know it's bad? And what happens if you run the bike with a bad one? If you answer...thanks.
The pressure relief valve is designed to maintain a certain oil pressure throughout the operating range and oil temperature. The oil pressure is a function of the spring rate of the spring. The most common failure mode I've seen is a stuck plunger. This could result in a too high oil pressure or too low. Both are detrimental to the engine causing leaking seals or oil starvation. Check with oil pressure gauge.
@@bensbritishbikes5279 thank you. I need to get gauge or pull and check if valve is stuck. Gauge is safest way though.