THIS IS AN INSANE AWESOME. I like it. It might solve my new block's failure because of the oil pressure. I appreciate it a lot. Thanks so much for the insight. My new engine failed after 300 miles , it's a mystery to be solved from this video. THanks.
It is also worth noting that in high load environments a full length shaft such as the AMS can provide greater support to the oil pump gear, lessening wear on the gears and on the inner bearing surface, which would be subject to more potential off axis loads and stress without the inside bearing.
That was brilliant mate :-) You boiled down the complicated understanding of oil supply to a very sharp and brilliant teaching video, really enjoyed your smooth delevery :-) So crisp an understanding, but simple enough for ordinary people to understand. Loved the flow diagram :-) Your a dam good teacher. Smashing video :-)
Your presentations have proven addictive for me. I'm not into DSM machines, but am a seasoned mechanic that has found your knowledge astounding. There's always more to learn!
AWSOME VIDEO. This is the best oil system info for the 4g63 I have ever come across. It makes me cringe thinking about how people let oil go 10k miles. Imagine trying to push sludge through those small openings!
I'm in college right now for automotive technology and your videos have given me knowledge that has both helped me in class and on my own projects. Thank you. Keep up the good work!
While I do not own a Mitsubishi, I find your in-depth knowledge of all of the system that make up a motor refreshing. I have subscribed for a while, and look forward to the next video.
Can't wait to see the oil filter housing video! I'm kind of spec-ing out my build on paper right now and that is one of the things I am still undecided on,
Awesome explanation for the oil system of the mighty 4G63. I can't wait to see what mods you have in store for your 6 Bolt. Thanks for taking the time to make these videos. I look forward to seeing your new videos every week. Thanks for what you give to the DSM community.
A lot of good information here that I wish I had 10 years ago when I was getting my 2G GS-T built. Well, I got it now (better later than never!). Thanks Jafro!
this was pretty good although I drive a different car its nice to see a breakdown of how the oiling system works for a 4g63. I never put much thought into my oil system besides doing some quick homework when building my engine about it weak points and poor low rpm oil psi.
Thanks. Something you might be interested in, is Koenigsegg's pneumatic valve train currently being tested in a Saab I think. That's gotta eliminate components. You can watch it on the drive channel.
@lawnside82 I have personally experienced a 4gxx with an out pf phase oil pump drive balance shaft. It is very noticeable at 2000and up. It almost rings. I did build a 2.4 optima engine and it has the same basic timing belt setup as a 4g63.
Wow great stuff. Its really nice to get an idea of how all the oiling works, however i still dont get how the oil squirters ever reach the piston from what i can see (but i do understand their importance) great vid!
WOW you should be in the teaching industry!!! amazing and clear cut explanations! im scared to do the balence shaft removal now since i dont want an extra build up of oil pressure! I finally bought a good running 4g63 "with a blown turbo" found out it had a few bent valves and bad valve seals, since the guy before me had it off timing and so i put the head back together with all new BC internals and 272 cams and im not sure how much a stock 92 6 bolt block w/ 100k could handle what do you think?
Well worded, east to follow, detailed and in-depth. Awesome job and just what I was looking for to track down my fresh builds low oil pressure issue. Thanks
amazing!! where do you get all that info and knowledge? so to to eliminate that crankwalk on the early 2g 7-bolt engines all you have to do is increase pressure on the 5th journal bearing right next to the flywheel.. or get yourself an 1g 7-bolt blok? wrigth?
450 is plenty! I used arp head studs 90psi i believe, but i havent even touched the block at all! bought abuilt 7 bolt w/ a bad oil leak turn out to be thrust bearing play like alottt of play. Took apart the block and all new bearing were trashed from 800 miles everything was mint but the crank and bearings =[ im afraid to mess with the block since i dont know how to measure everything! i believe it was a lack of oil to specific places as you were saying in the video that caused crank walk spunb
what would specifically cause multiple turbo failures and low oil pressure at operating temps? and can you make a video on how to RESET the BISS screw in great detail? thanks in advance....
Hi, thanks for video, my second question, at 6.55 in video, i see that oil goes from oil pan to oil pressure regulator directly without going via oil pickup, pump gears, etc.. may i know what is that route and when it will be used. 2) is the return path of oil from crank journal, main, rod bearing , is to the oil pan, or it goes to pump and it is bleed to oil pan.. please..
Jafro thanks for the videos, quick question regarding 6 bolts front case oil pump. should i buy a new front case or should i just get the oil pump gears.
Building a 600+ hp turbo 4g63 with a NA 6 bolt. Should I go through the machining process of having the oil squirter bosses drilled and tapped? Or should I just not bother with the oil squirters and be just fine without them? I know the benefits of having them, but weren't they best with the factory pistons rather than the forged ones I'll be using.
At 1:34 where you pointed at the oil passage on the block. Can it be an option to grind and blend that rough casting smooth to get rid of any restriction? Or is there really no point to it cause it wouldn't make a difference pressure wise?
hi, when i do oil pressure test, will it indicates if there is a failure in pump gears because of wear and tear. you picture shows that unregulated oil pressure goes to filter, regulated, and then goes to main oil gallery. so can i assume any oil goes to main oil gallery will always be regulated.. also can i assume PUMP will always produce unregulated oil pressure and before it goes to main gallery it will be always regulated.
Hi Jafro, love your videos so precise and articulate!!. In at least one of your videos, you filmed, a 4G63 service manual can you show it on greater detail possibly give a ISBN number Thanks keep those videos coming
Thanks so much.. I am sure you are the best so far in youtube on explaining the internals of how engine works. I learned so much from you and i am happy to donate if u have paypal account.
Jafro, Almost through all your videos, can't imagine how long it too to make them!! Blew my 6-bolt & Hyundai head (increased CR). It had roughly 10k miles before failing. Im going to swap another engine into the car, and decided to jump on JAM built 2.1L. Since the low miles from the previous build, I am thinking of swapping the timing belt, and all peripherals, oil strainer etc. Is there anything wrong with that? Factory service manual 91 for 6 bolt? Or will Chilton or Haynes suffice?
So.. more reasons to keep balance shafts. What would you say If I kept both balance shafts in, but a shop removed the belt for the front bs and then that caused my engine to run funny/ lug a bit.. So then I installed a fluidamper pulley and it cleared that up and runs much better but now runs one balance shaft instead of two. I also run mitsubishi oil filters and VR1 20W50 weight oil. Haven't had any issues and I have some mileage on it now. Believe it or not my transmission was shifting really funny until I put that fluidamper pulley on.
I have 650cc inj, I cant use 255w fp since all bolts are rusted and missing 4 already.I installed dsm link and have a fp green but dont know how to bolt the waist gate to it. got the cyclone intake manifold with a 14b waist gate to open the secondary runners. I want a torque monster more anything but idk how to go about getting it there. afr are bad and i dont get how to tune really at all. the concept of a car and how it works is easy but tuning is a different story! do you have vids of tuning
love ur vids mate. just got my car on road..ive put in a semi synthetic 10w40 oil.not sure if i should go fully synthetic?is that too thin?my car is standard with no mods.what would u recommend.regards .
Video request... do you have one on the balance shafts? and timing? i think on my 2.4 kia optima i have my oil sprocket off.. and it vibrates like hell at around 2k rpm.. smh
oh...oops..>_< Figured I ask cause in a previous vid, you did some port work on the return alittle on the 1g head. Mentioned that it would relieve some pressure if BS was eliminated, so I wondered how much of a pressure decrease it would be combined with grinding this oil passage. But I'll wait till your next vid..lol
just wanna ask u y my car always got problem on the track with the main crankshaft bearing and crankshaft...my car is 4g63 evo3 engine with 500hp running 1.5bar....some fren say i have to change my oil sump to 6litre its true...coz i already change my oil pump from belting to bearing......do u have any answer..and should i change my oil sump to 6litre....for time attack tq
Hey Jafro your videos are awsome bro! im having an issue with my 7 bolt on my 05 Evo maybe you could help me please! i rebuild the block and theres no oil pressure. the block is complete in the car with the transmission. new gaskets, new oil pump, cleaned oil passages and all with high pressure diesel! when i prime the pump with out the head, oil comes out of the right top hole slowly. not with pressure. what could it be.? PLEASE HELP!! :/ THX YOU!!
I has a 1990 fwd tsi and I think I have a 91 fwd Transmission in it and Some of the gears are grinding do I need a 91 Shifter or The 90s shifter Mounes
Hi jafro, can i ask you a question about how the oil squirter operate. I have a Mitsubishi Legnum VR4 which has the 6A13tt engine 2.5L V6 twin turbo. with about 160K miles on it. i have been stipping it ready for rebuild. This engine has oil squirters from the main crank bearing to each of the cylinder bores. they seem to consist of a pressed in insert in the bearing oil groove and there is a spring loaded plunger inside it. is this the same as the 4g63 oil squirter. if so when the plunger is pressed does this open the oil squirter and spray or close the oil squirter and stop spray. I would have thought it would open. When i stripped my engine, all bar one was clogged up with gunk. I cleaned them out but was not sure what the correct operation of the plunger should be. When i spray solvent with compressed air (DIY parts washer like yours) it does not spray out of the squirter. i am concerned they are still blocked. any help/feedback on this would be much appreciated. all the best davezj
Love your videos, im having a hard time changing the transmission fluid on my 2g 4g63 manual transmission. Could you spare a moment to do a video about that? Cheers
Oops "Trans & Clutch 7" is the rear end and transfer case. Look up "Changing Manual Transaxle Gear Oil". I have a separate video for the transmission. :)
Hello master , I need your help , please!. Let's see , when I turn on my car ( Mitsubishi RVR sports gear x3, engine 4g63) the oil pressure is 80 psi for 800 RPM (for 65°F). but when the engine starts to heat, the oil pressure drops to 0 psi (200°F). What do you think ???? Note: my Metales are new. thanks
+Alex Miller If the pump is working properly, neither a 1g or a 2g oil squirter should starve the mains. That's really what it all boils down to. The oil squirters have absolutely no bearing (pun intended) on the main and rod bearing failure issues that DSMs often experience. It's just a topic of discussion that many tuners like to argue about. I don't believe the design of either the 1g or 2g stuff makes any difference at all because the oil pressure regulator will compensate for any difference in their flow rate. That is… unless it's out of range because the oil pump isn't moving enough oil. In that case, it's not the oil squirter's fault. It's the pump and we're right back at the same place where we started this discussion. Seriously, ask the next guy who challenges you about the oil squirters WHY they're a problem and see what he says. How he justifies it? It should be entertaining. Squirters don't pulse or turn on and off. After you hit 10 PSI (idle pressure) they start squirting and they never stop. They can be stuck open and never cause bearing failure because they don't leak enough oil to starve the mains if you have a good pump and a properly-funcitoning oil pressure regulator.
I bought a 90 awd talon, built motor, FP turbo, the guy I got it from changed the dash which I'm not sure could cause the oil light stays on and never shuts off the gauge when you start it goes high then drops to low , new oil pressure switch, any ideas what could be going on? Runs really good no noises
If the oil sensor connection, or any part of that circuit is open-shorted, back to that bulb, then the light comes on. Grab a circuit diagram, when you digest it, it makes perfect sense. I don't know off the top of my head to tell you where to probe on that car, but it's essentially a simple, 1-wire ground circuit. If you bypass it with another wire end-to-end and the light goes out, it confirms the factory wire is an open circuit (broken wire/bad connection)
When I rewired my Elantra, I was all over the electrical diagrams in that video. I rewired the engine harness to 1990 spec, and I think it's shown in there with the check engine light, etc...
Got another question, recently i had to change the valve gasket and the water pump on my Eclipse 2g GST, before the change it used to make about 10km per liter, now its making about 4km per liter... Got any clue what could be the problem? :/
Is it running poorly? Rough? Do you smell gas? If you changed your valve cover gasket, the fuel rail is right behind it. You might have damaged an injector seal if any of that stuff was disturbed. There could be a vacuum leak (boost leak) or a disconnected hose? If you removed the timing belt to take out the one obstructed water pump bolt, you might be a tooth off on your valve timing. There's a lot of different issues that can contribute to that problem, but if you feel it's a cause of service performed, give everything around the area you were working a good visual, and then check those timing marks. That's what I'd do. I make mistakes sometimes. If you're lucky enough to have a check engine light on, reading the ECU codes will likely tell you what the problem is.
Thanks for the reply, so the service was done in a shop near my house, im having second thoughts on there work... but back to the problem, im sure they had to remove the timing belt, but im not sure how to check the valve timing... Im quite a noob when it comes to engines, iv been folowing your chanel to learn more and start to do my own fix arround it. Anyway, i dont want to take the car back to them since iv lost faith in there work... Nope, no gas smell, and i guess its not running poorly nor it is rough... But i have to say that i felt the turbo charge a bit strange after it came back from the shop, i hear a different sound of what i was used to, when i asked them about it, they said it was all fine :/... The boost used to fill up fast and trouble less, now iv got to step all way down to fill it up (kinda like a lag). No engine check light. If the fuel rail is damaged, would i get a fuel leak?
Either your valve timing is wrong or you have a boost leak. Start with the boost leak because that's the most common cause of what you described on a turbocharged car. I have a whole series of videos about boost leak testing. Watch those videos and start there.
There's a lot of different ways a boost leak can happen. I demonstrated how to find all of them with an air compressor and soapy water. Also, if you have a pre-turbo exhaust leak (cracked manifold, blown gasket, loose flange, etc.) It will be hard to spool and get bad gas mileage. An exhaust leak could cause it, too.
Everything here makes sense , except the starting part of the oil flow , oil goes threw the oil cooler first then it goes to the oil filter . @jafromobile
It's because of the teardrop on the cylinder head being milled too thin, or a head gasket problem where it's not oriented correctly and blocking the port. There is a teardrop-shaped indention on the bottom of the head that carries oil from a small hole, through a gallery on one of the head bolts, and into a small hole inside the cylinder head at that head bolt. Oil flows around that bolt. If there's anything obstructing that gallery, no oil will flow. If the head is from a 7-bolt and the block is a 6-bolt, the stud itself is blocking the oil flow because the head needs to be drilled out larger to accommodate the bigger bolt used on 6-bolt blocks. There are a lot of factors that could be at play and I can't tell enough about your equipment from your comment, but that's the area you should inspect. You'll need to take the head off to find the problem.
Jafromobile ..thank you for answer friend,let me tell you what i checked:oil pump is new,oil filter,pick up tube,camshaft crabkshaft,changed oil,it only happen when i start the car or when i park for I hour,not happen running.Sorry for my English,thanks.
Dear jafro. I have a suggestion, I bet a lot of dsms fan are waiting for you to work in a 1g eclipse, talon, lasrt. You need to open a paypal account so people can donate, if you do I will send you some money.
6-bolt production ran until mid-year 1992 production. The 1992.5-1994 model years are 1g 7-bolts. The 2g 7-bolt is a completely different engine than the 1g 7-bolt, as it has a bearing girdle. I assure you I got nothing incorrect. All 1g cars aren't 6-bolts. It's just a coincidence that all 6-bolt factory cars are 1g's.
People who don't understand you are asking questions on what oil to use? The one that is recommended from factory.. regular oil! From 1g to 2g 1988 to 1999 regular 5w30 ... your not running a European aluminium block your running cast iron! Iron blocks regular oil aluminum full synthetic.. for cars with performance mods and iron block semi synthetic or liqui Molly should do great... do not use full synthetics on iron blocks unless you like to throw your $ away
Why do these engines use such a complex oiling system? I mean, most engines consist of an oil pump and a bunch of galleries. Side note: I sell flowers for a living.
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This is a great presentation for oiling! I am going to show this to my 18 year old. While he has a hyundai its still relevant. Thanks for the service!
Jafro you are like a DSM mad scientist genius.
As always great work.
THIS IS AN INSANE AWESOME. I like it. It might solve my new block's failure because of the oil pressure. I appreciate it a lot. Thanks so much for the insight. My new engine failed after 300 miles , it's a mystery to be solved from this video. THanks.
It is also worth noting that in high load environments a full length shaft such as the AMS can provide greater support to the oil pump gear, lessening wear on the gears and on the inner bearing surface, which would be subject to more potential off axis loads and stress without the inside bearing.
That was brilliant mate :-)
You boiled down the complicated understanding of oil supply to a very sharp and brilliant teaching video, really enjoyed your smooth delevery :-)
So crisp an understanding, but simple enough for ordinary people to understand.
Loved the flow diagram :-)
Your a dam good teacher.
Smashing video :-)
Your presentations have proven addictive for me. I'm not into DSM machines, but am a seasoned mechanic that has found your knowledge astounding. There's always more to learn!
AWSOME VIDEO. This is the best oil system info for the 4g63 I have ever come across. It makes me cringe thinking about how people let oil go 10k miles. Imagine trying to push sludge through those small openings!
I'm in college right now for automotive technology and your videos have given me knowledge that has both helped me in class and on my own projects. Thank you. Keep up the good work!
While I do not own a Mitsubishi, I find your in-depth knowledge of all of the system that make up a motor refreshing. I have subscribed for a while, and look forward to the next video.
Can't wait to see the oil filter housing video! I'm kind of spec-ing out my build on paper right now and that is one of the things I am still undecided on,
By far the best video which should be subject as mandatory in colleges.
Awesome explanation for the oil system of the mighty 4G63. I can't wait to see what mods you have in store for your 6 Bolt. Thanks for taking the time to make these videos. I look forward to seeing your new videos every week. Thanks for what you give to the DSM community.
Extremely well done! Thank you Jafro!
A lot of good information here that I wish I had 10 years ago when I was getting my 2G GS-T built. Well, I got it now (better later than never!).
Thanks Jafro!
Thanks for making the video! Gave me a better perspective and a good idea how the oil system works on our beloved 4g63 block.
Keep it up!
this was pretty good although I drive a different car its nice to see a breakdown of how the oiling system works for a 4g63. I never put much thought into my oil system besides doing some quick homework when building my engine about it weak points and poor low rpm oil psi.
Thanks.
Something you might be interested in, is Koenigsegg's pneumatic valve train currently being tested in a Saab I think. That's gotta eliminate components. You can watch it on the drive channel.
ਬਹੁਤ ਕੀਮਤੀ ਜਾਣਕਾਰੀ ਦੇਣ ਲਈ ਧੰਨਵਾਦ ਵੀਰੇ
@lawnside82 I have personally experienced a 4gxx with an out pf phase oil pump drive balance shaft. It is very noticeable at 2000and up. It almost rings. I did build a 2.4 optima engine and it has the same basic timing belt setup as a 4g63.
Wow great stuff. Its really nice to get an idea of how all the oiling works, however i still dont get how the oil squirters ever reach the piston from what i can see (but i do understand their importance) great vid!
Absolutely fantastic video! Your dedication and knowledge of the 4g63 is incredible.
as always - stopped everything I was doing to watch the newest vid - glad I did
WOW you should be in the teaching industry!!! amazing and clear cut explanations! im scared to do the balence shaft removal now since i dont want an extra build up of oil pressure! I finally bought a good running 4g63 "with a blown turbo" found out it had a few bent valves and bad valve seals, since the guy before me had it off timing and so i put the head back together with all new BC internals and 272 cams and im not sure how much a stock 92 6 bolt block w/ 100k could handle what do you think?
Well worded, east to follow, detailed and in-depth. Awesome job and just what I was looking for to track down my fresh builds low oil pressure issue. Thanks
amazing!! where do you get all that info and knowledge?
so to to eliminate that crankwalk on the early 2g 7-bolt engines all you have to do is increase pressure on the 5th journal bearing right next to the flywheel.. or get yourself an 1g 7-bolt blok? wrigth?
Oh my god you know so much, good lord that's amazing. You are better then any professional iv'e ever heard about our engines... Wow just Wow.
Dude, you're awesome. I love all your videos they're always EXTREMELY informative. Keep it up man! I'm loving the build too.
450 is plenty! I used arp head studs 90psi i believe, but i havent even touched the block at all! bought abuilt 7 bolt w/ a bad oil leak turn out to be thrust bearing play like alottt of play. Took apart the block and all new bearing were trashed from 800 miles everything was mint but the crank and bearings =[ im afraid to mess with the block since i dont know how to measure everything! i believe it was a lack of oil to specific places as you were saying in the video that caused crank walk spunb
i did delete bshalf. you're right on target. Thanks. i will watch previous, too. will comment. we need more dsm genius like you!!!!
what would specifically cause multiple turbo failures and low oil pressure at operating temps? and can you make a video on how to RESET the BISS screw in great detail? thanks in advance....
Jafro, its been 3 weeks, I'm itching for an update, currently reviewing your clutch videos while removing my transmission.
Hi, thanks for video, my second question, at 6.55 in video, i see that oil goes from oil pan to oil pressure regulator directly without going via oil pickup, pump gears, etc.. may i know what is that route and when it will be used. 2) is the return path of oil from crank journal, main, rod bearing , is to the oil pan, or it goes to pump and it is bleed to oil pan.. please..
Jafro thanks for the videos, quick question regarding 6 bolts front case oil pump. should i buy a new front case or should i just get the oil pump gears.
That's a good way so start a video, with a joke. But like all of your videos, it does inform a lot.
97 gsx with thrust bearing 7 bolt. but I do have an extra thrust washer 7 bolt block.
Good info!! Btw, do you have a video on priming the oil pump after a rebuild, especially on stands??
Building a 600+ hp turbo 4g63 with a NA 6 bolt. Should I go through the machining process of having the oil squirter bosses drilled and tapped? Or should I just not bother with the oil squirters and be just fine without them? I know the benefits of having them, but weren't they best with the factory pistons rather than the forged ones I'll be using.
Awesome video jafro, ive learend so much from these and looking forward to more!
At 1:34 where you pointed at the oil passage on the block. Can it be an option to grind and blend that rough casting smooth to get rid of any restriction? Or is there really no point to it cause it wouldn't make a difference pressure wise?
hi, when i do oil pressure test, will it indicates if there is a failure in pump gears because of wear and tear. you picture shows that unregulated oil pressure goes to filter, regulated, and then goes to main oil gallery. so can i assume any oil goes to main oil gallery will always be regulated.. also can i assume PUMP will always produce unregulated oil pressure and before it goes to main gallery it will be always regulated.
Hi Jafro, love your videos so precise and articulate!!. In at least one of your videos, you filmed, a 4G63 service manual can you show it on greater detail possibly give a ISBN number Thanks keep those videos coming
This video is awesome! Answered all of my questions, thank you for sharing your knowledge.
Another great video man! thank you very much for sharing this info man=) I can't wait for the next vid man.
Thanks so much.. I am sure you are the best so far in youtube on explaining the internals of how engine works. I learned so much from you and i am happy to donate if u have paypal account.
Excellent descriptive video, Thank you, keep them coming.
Jafro, Almost through all your videos, can't imagine how long it too to make them!! Blew my 6-bolt & Hyundai head (increased CR). It had roughly 10k miles before failing. Im going to swap another engine into the car, and decided to jump on JAM built 2.1L. Since the low miles from the previous build, I am thinking of swapping the timing belt, and all peripherals, oil strainer etc. Is there anything wrong with that? Factory service manual 91 for 6 bolt? Or will Chilton or Haynes suffice?
So.. more reasons to keep balance shafts. What would you say If I kept both balance shafts in, but a shop removed the belt for the front bs and then that caused my engine to run funny/ lug a bit.. So then I installed a fluidamper pulley and it cleared that up and runs much better but now runs one balance shaft instead of two.
I also run mitsubishi oil filters and VR1 20W50 weight oil. Haven't had any issues and I have some mileage on it now. Believe it or not my transmission was shifting really funny until I put that fluidamper pulley on.
I have 650cc inj, I cant use 255w fp since all bolts are rusted and missing 4 already.I installed dsm link and have a fp green but dont know how to bolt the waist gate to it. got the cyclone intake manifold with a 14b waist gate to open the secondary runners. I want a torque monster more anything but idk how to go about getting it there. afr are bad and i dont get how to tune really at all. the concept of a car and how it works is easy but tuning is a different story! do you have vids of tuning
Now I'm wondering how I would simulate the oil flow. Maybe MATLAB or Excel... It'd definitely be interesting with a little input from fluid dynamics.
Any reason why you recommended ARP mains as well? I usually don't hear that one.
Thanks .. What if u don't have the old tran or Shifter mounts can I just Change the shifter and Shifter cables to what year tran I have ?
Im rebuilding my 6bolt GVR4 right now. Do i need to buy the entire oil pump assembly? or just the gears?
does DSM make the engines for the isuzu rodeo 3.2 liter? I have owned this vehicle and was veruy impressed with the design of the motor?
love ur vids mate.
just got my car on road..ive put in a semi synthetic 10w40 oil.not sure if i should go fully synthetic?is that too thin?my car is standard with no mods.what would u recommend.regards .
Video request... do you have one on the balance shafts? and timing? i think on my 2.4 kia optima i have my oil sprocket off.. and it vibrates like hell at around 2k rpm.. smh
my face when all i wanted was the filter location.. lol
oh...oops..>_< Figured I ask cause in a previous vid, you did some port work on the return alittle on the 1g head. Mentioned that it would relieve some pressure if BS was eliminated, so I wondered how much of a pressure decrease it would be combined with grinding this oil passage. But I'll wait till your next vid..lol
just wanna ask u y my car always got problem on the track with the main crankshaft bearing and crankshaft...my car is 4g63 evo3 engine with 500hp running 1.5bar....some fren say i have to change my oil sump to 6litre its true...coz i already change my oil pump from belting to bearing......do u have any answer..and should i change my oil sump to 6litre....for time attack
tq
Hey Jafro your videos are awsome bro!
im having an issue with my 7 bolt on my 05 Evo maybe you could help me please!
i rebuild the block and theres no oil pressure.
the block is complete in the car with the transmission.
new gaskets, new oil pump, cleaned oil passages and all with high pressure diesel!
when i prime the pump with out the head, oil comes out of the right top hole slowly. not with pressure. what could it be.? PLEASE HELP!! :/ THX YOU!!
So even an AMS balance shaft removal kit "Not a cheap one" will otherwise kill my engine in the long run?
I has a 1990 fwd tsi and I think I have a 91 fwd Transmission in it and Some of the gears are grinding do I need a 91 Shifter or The 90s shifter Mounes
Hi jafro,
can i ask you a question about how the oil squirter operate.
I have a Mitsubishi Legnum VR4 which has the 6A13tt engine 2.5L V6 twin turbo. with about 160K miles on it.
i have been stipping it ready for rebuild.
This engine has oil squirters from the main crank bearing to each of the cylinder bores.
they seem to consist of a pressed in insert in the bearing oil groove and there is a spring loaded plunger inside it.
is this the same as the 4g63 oil squirter.
if so when the plunger is pressed does this open the oil squirter and spray or close the oil squirter and stop spray.
I would have thought it would open.
When i stripped my engine, all bar one was clogged up with gunk.
I cleaned them out but was not sure what the correct operation of the plunger should be.
When i spray solvent with compressed air (DIY parts washer like yours) it does not spray out of the squirter. i am concerned they are still blocked.
any help/feedback on this would be much appreciated.
all the best
davezj
Thanks for the vid. i needed this lol. i am doing a BSE kit from STM
Love your videos, im having a hard time changing the transmission fluid on my 2g 4g63 manual transmission. Could you spare a moment to do a video about that?
Cheers
Boy are you in luck! Look for "Trans & Clutch 7 - AWD Fluids". :)
Oops "Trans & Clutch 7" is the rear end and transfer case. Look up "Changing Manual Transaxle Gear Oil". I have a separate video for the transmission. :)
Hello master , I need your help , please!. Let's see , when I turn on my car ( Mitsubishi RVR sports gear x3, engine 4g63) the oil pressure is 80 psi for 800 RPM (for 65°F). but when the engine starts to heat, the oil pressure drops to 0 psi (200°F). What do you think ????
Note: my Metales are new.
thanks
Hi Jafro I'm in the process of building my 2g NA 7 bolter. What oil pressure range should I have on idle and WOT? thanks
This just made my day!
I have a issue oil pressure low on4g93t my Mechanics said is oil jet leaking
Any idea
great video!!! what courses did you take to learn about this? or are you self taught?
precision cut swiss cheese haha! awesome video and super informative. keep em coming!
So if I have this correct, the 1G has a better oil system because it doesn't allow starvation for the mains?
+Alex Miller If the pump is working properly, neither a 1g or a 2g oil squirter should starve the mains. That's really what it all boils down to. The oil squirters have absolutely no bearing (pun intended) on the main and rod bearing failure issues that DSMs often experience. It's just a topic of discussion that many tuners like to argue about. I don't believe the design of either the 1g or 2g stuff makes any difference at all because the oil pressure regulator will compensate for any difference in their flow rate. That is… unless it's out of range because the oil pump isn't moving enough oil. In that case, it's not the oil squirter's fault. It's the pump and we're right back at the same place where we started this discussion. Seriously, ask the next guy who challenges you about the oil squirters WHY they're a problem and see what he says. How he justifies it? It should be entertaining.
Squirters don't pulse or turn on and off. After you hit 10 PSI (idle pressure) they start squirting and they never stop. They can be stuck open and never cause bearing failure because they don't leak enough oil to starve the mains if you have a good pump and a properly-funcitoning oil pressure regulator.
Any idea why the oil pump in my 4G93T clatters on start up? Goes quiet after a few seconds though
I bought a 90 awd talon, built motor, FP turbo, the guy I got it from changed the dash which I'm not sure could cause the oil light stays on and never shuts off the gauge when you start it goes high then drops to low , new oil pressure switch, any ideas what could be going on? Runs really good no noises
If the oil sensor connection, or any part of that circuit is open-shorted, back to that bulb, then the light comes on. Grab a circuit diagram, when you digest it, it makes perfect sense. I don't know off the top of my head to tell you where to probe on that car, but it's essentially a simple, 1-wire ground circuit. If you bypass it with another wire end-to-end and the light goes out, it confirms the factory wire is an open circuit (broken wire/bad connection)
When I rewired my Elantra, I was all over the electrical diagrams in that video. I rewired the engine harness to 1990 spec, and I think it's shown in there with the check engine light, etc...
Thanks master!!!!
kisiera conseguir la base del filtro de aceite para eclipse 90 es eso lo q m falta.tengo bobinas monoblock.puertas y más piezas q rekieran.
Is there a way to get that flow chart?
Jafromobile I need help .. This has nothing to do with the oil system
Love this man your brilliant, thank you so much.
why does the 4G63T have a balance shaft?
My 4G93T doesnt, and that's a DOHC 16V Turbo, just like the 63T.
***** But most 63T owners remove the balance shafts.. If theyre good then why do people remove them?
Got another question, recently i had to change the valve gasket and the water pump on my Eclipse 2g GST, before the change it used to make about 10km per liter, now its making about 4km per liter... Got any clue what could be the problem? :/
Is it running poorly? Rough? Do you smell gas? If you changed your valve cover gasket, the fuel rail is right behind it. You might have damaged an injector seal if any of that stuff was disturbed. There could be a vacuum leak (boost leak) or a disconnected hose? If you removed the timing belt to take out the one obstructed water pump bolt, you might be a tooth off on your valve timing. There's a lot of different issues that can contribute to that problem, but if you feel it's a cause of service performed, give everything around the area you were working a good visual, and then check those timing marks. That's what I'd do. I make mistakes sometimes. If you're lucky enough to have a check engine light on, reading the ECU codes will likely tell you what the problem is.
Thanks for the reply, so the service was done in a shop near my house, im having second thoughts on there work... but back to the problem, im sure they had to remove the timing belt, but im not sure how to check the valve timing... Im quite a noob when it comes to engines, iv been folowing your chanel to learn more and start to do my own fix arround it. Anyway, i dont want to take the car back to them since iv lost faith in there work...
Nope, no gas smell, and i guess its not running poorly nor it is rough... But i have to say that i felt the turbo charge a bit strange after it came back from the shop, i hear a different sound of what i was used to, when i asked them about it, they said it was all fine :/... The boost used to fill up fast and trouble less, now iv got to step all way down to fill it up (kinda like a lag).
No engine check light.
If the fuel rail is damaged, would i get a fuel leak?
Either your valve timing is wrong or you have a boost leak. Start with the boost leak because that's the most common cause of what you described on a turbocharged car. I have a whole series of videos about boost leak testing. Watch those videos and start there.
BTW A disconnected hose im quite sure its not :/
There's a lot of different ways a boost leak can happen. I demonstrated how to find all of them with an air compressor and soapy water. Also, if you have a pre-turbo exhaust leak (cracked manifold, blown gasket, loose flange, etc.) It will be hard to spool and get bad gas mileage. An exhaust leak could cause it, too.
Huge thumbs up!
just love youre video"s
Awesome!!
great stuff!!!!
Everything here makes sense , except the starting part of the oil flow , oil goes threw the oil cooler first then it goes to the oil filter . @jafromobile
Love the diagram.
Hi friend,why doesnt my mitsubishi flow oil to the head?thanks.
It's because of the teardrop on the cylinder head being milled too thin, or a head gasket problem where it's not oriented correctly and blocking the port. There is a teardrop-shaped indention on the bottom of the head that carries oil from a small hole, through a gallery on one of the head bolts, and into a small hole inside the cylinder head at that head bolt. Oil flows around that bolt. If there's anything obstructing that gallery, no oil will flow. If the head is from a 7-bolt and the block is a 6-bolt, the stud itself is blocking the oil flow because the head needs to be drilled out larger to accommodate the bigger bolt used on 6-bolt blocks. There are a lot of factors that could be at play and I can't tell enough about your equipment from your comment, but that's the area you should inspect. You'll need to take the head off to find the problem.
Jafromobile ..thank you for answer friend,let me tell you what i checked:oil pump is new,oil filter,pick up tube,camshaft crabkshaft,changed oil,it only happen when i start the car or when i park for I hour,not happen running.Sorry for my English,thanks.
...er down the line, away from the oil pump, passages get smaller. (Premature enterkeyation)
Dear jafro.
I have a suggestion, I bet a lot of dsms fan are waiting for you to work in a 1g eclipse, talon, lasrt. You need to open a paypal account so people can donate, if you do I will send you some money.
710 cap :-) Also note how as you go furh
1 mistake..... 1g is 6 bolt not 7. You mentioned it while showing the oil chart.. 2g blocks are 7bolt .. 1g is 6bolt
6-bolt production ran until mid-year 1992 production. The 1992.5-1994 model years are 1g 7-bolts. The 2g 7-bolt is a completely different engine than the 1g 7-bolt, as it has a bearing girdle. I assure you I got nothing incorrect. All 1g cars aren't 6-bolts. It's just a coincidence that all 6-bolt factory cars are 1g's.
People who don't understand you are asking questions on what oil to use? The one that is recommended from factory.. regular oil! From 1g to 2g 1988 to 1999 regular 5w30 ... your not running a European aluminium block your running cast iron! Iron blocks regular oil aluminum full synthetic.. for cars with performance mods and iron block semi synthetic or liqui Molly should do great... do not use full synthetics on iron blocks unless you like to throw your $ away
I understand. I mentioned it because the 1g service manual and the 2g service manual don't recommend the same oil specification.
Why do these engines use such a complex oiling system? I mean, most engines consist of an oil pump and a bunch of galleries. Side note: I sell flowers for a living.
What’s your Instagram?
This and Patreon are the only social media I have because I read license agreements. Anyone on any other platform claiming to be me is a fraud.