The mechanics of manually controlling a dob is really important for the system to really click with end users, so they can spend time using the scope rather than fighting it. It's great you are looking at the issues of telescope mechanics and software with fresh eyes and a perspective on new possibilities that have opened up with the whole maker revolution and the tools that are now available; I feel the old guard of amateur telescope makers can sometimes be stuck on these highly functional, proven designs, but not venture too far from home. I've also found the lazy Susan bearings spin too freely and have very poor runout and slop, which affects orthogonality. Too much effort must be made to fight the shortcomings of their construction. I haven't been able to think of an ideal solution that is significantly better cost: function: accuracy than the old school textured frp and Teflon pads. Looking forward to following your design evolution and thought process. I've currently got a fine piece of machining in a unique alt az mount called the "Lightspeed Wagon" by the late Charles Riddell, who was known for making these bespoke, fantastically precise machined aluminum alt az mounts that can be a joy to use and marvel at their construction...but also have some unforgiving requirements -- if any part was assembled less than perfectly orthogonal, and the center of mass of the mounted scope not balanced correctly -- the experience for the end user quickly falls apart-- scopes fall, parts wear abnormally, etc. it's a great piece to study and it reminds me to not get too caught up in the engineering of certain areas of a design, since it can introduce unpalatable trade offs
Thanks for your comments. I feel like there is a lot that can be improved on this design and thoughtful comments like this give me motivation to keep plugging away at it.
Thanks Dave for sharing all your knowledge, incredible amount of engineering design, and work.I am new to cad,still a beginner, i do have three 3d printers,and set of mirrors, and eyepieces for building a telescope, and still being a beginner at cad,and engineering design, its people like you Dave who help us beginner's to show what can be accomplished, and it inspires beginner's to keep learning
Thanks for your comments. I feel like there is a lot that can be improved on this design and thoughtful comments like this give me motivation to keep plugging away at it.
Found my way here from your gear tutorial. Your content is great. I'm not particularly interested in astronomy, but it was really cool to see your approach to achieve something well established using new technologies like 3D Printing. Very well explained and demonstrated throughout, as well. Thanks for sharing!
Thanks for checking it out. I figure astronomy, and specifically telescope building it quite niche, but the techniques and ideas here can be useful elsewhere.
Thank you for going into the details. This is super inspiring. I have been using wood to make my telescopes but I was stuck on motorizing it because I used the teflon+formica approach. I just got a P1S printer. I don't think it can handle 3DXTech CarbonX, do you have recommendation for another filament type?
@@designbydave Hi Dave, I bought 3DX PETG-CF to make a 6" truss OTA and it's really good. I'm now more confident to 3d print my 12" OTA with a more advanced material 😅. Looking at 3DX offering, they also have Nylon12-CF which has higher modulus than ezPC-CF. Could I ask your opinion on this filament? What was your thought process that helped you picked PC over Nylon12? Thanks
I personally have never got good results printing with Nylon. Not sure why but I avoid it. It's also, generally a much more difficult material to "work" (sand, drill, cut, etc.)
The mechanics of manually controlling a dob is really important for the system to really click with end users, so they can spend time using the scope rather than fighting it. It's great you are looking at the issues of telescope mechanics and software with fresh eyes and a perspective on new possibilities that have opened up with the whole maker revolution and the tools that are now available; I feel the old guard of amateur telescope makers can sometimes be stuck on these highly functional, proven designs, but not venture too far from home.
I've also found the lazy Susan bearings spin too freely and have very poor runout and slop, which affects orthogonality. Too much effort must be made to fight the shortcomings of their construction. I haven't been able to think of an ideal solution that is significantly better cost: function: accuracy than the old school textured frp and Teflon pads. Looking forward to following your design evolution and thought process.
I've currently got a fine piece of machining in a unique alt az mount called the "Lightspeed Wagon" by the late Charles Riddell, who was known for making these bespoke, fantastically precise machined aluminum alt az mounts that can be a joy to use and marvel at their construction...but also have some unforgiving requirements -- if any part was assembled less than perfectly orthogonal, and the center of mass of the mounted scope not balanced correctly -- the experience for the end user quickly falls apart-- scopes fall, parts wear abnormally, etc. it's a great piece to study and it reminds me to not get too caught up in the engineering of certain areas of a design, since it can introduce unpalatable trade offs
Thanks for your comments. I feel like there is a lot that can be improved on this design and thoughtful comments like this give me motivation to keep plugging away at it.
Thanks Dave for sharing all your knowledge, incredible amount of engineering design, and work.I am new to cad,still a beginner, i do have three 3d printers,and set of mirrors, and eyepieces for building a telescope, and still being a beginner at cad,and engineering design, its people like you Dave who help us beginner's to show what can be accomplished, and it inspires beginner's to keep learning
Coop man. I have years of experience at this stuff but every new project brings unique challenges.
Thanks for your comments. I feel like there is a lot that can be improved on this design and thoughtful comments like this give me motivation to keep plugging away at it.
Hi Dave, I’m currently pushing D12.5” and 2” thick glass for my future f/5 Dob telescope.it’s very nice and great job
Sounds great!
Found my way here from your gear tutorial. Your content is great. I'm not particularly interested in astronomy, but it was really cool to see your approach to achieve something well established using new technologies like 3D Printing. Very well explained and demonstrated throughout, as well. Thanks for sharing!
Thanks for checking it out. I figure astronomy, and specifically telescope building it quite niche, but the techniques and ideas here can be useful elsewhere.
Thank you for going into the details. This is super inspiring. I have been using wood to make my telescopes but I was stuck on motorizing it because I used the teflon+formica approach. I just got a P1S printer. I don't think it can handle 3DXTech CarbonX, do you have recommendation for another filament type?
Glad to be able to provide some inspiration. Yes, the p1S should be able to print that material no problem!
@@designbydave Thanks. Did you have any ventilation tool for your 3d printer setup? Is it located in a shop?
@@hungho9015 my main printer has a carbon filter for the chamber but it is not required for this material.
@@designbydave Hi Dave, I bought 3DX PETG-CF to make a 6" truss OTA and it's really good. I'm now more confident to 3d print my 12" OTA with a more advanced material 😅. Looking at 3DX offering, they also have Nylon12-CF which has higher modulus than ezPC-CF. Could I ask your opinion on this filament? What was your thought process that helped you picked PC over Nylon12? Thanks
I personally have never got good results printing with Nylon. Not sure why but I avoid it. It's also, generally a much more difficult material to "work" (sand, drill, cut, etc.)
Are you the Dfocus guy?
From many years ago, yes.