How to repair stuck vent on Buick Park Ave (EP191)
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 14 พ.ค. 2021
- Watch as I figure why I can't change the air flow.
Video posted May 15th, 2021
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Chilton repair manual 1985-2005 Buick / olds / Pontiac amzn.to/3ttwdSw
Haynes repair manual 1985-2005 Buick / olds / Pontiac amzn.to/3cMpuw8
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thank you, gives me insight as to why the drivers side ac does not perform. Long live cables. as I am more old school. Thank you for your hard work.
Well it is a start. Possible a plastic line has cracked? Could be other possibilities! Hope you figure it out.
thank you for going through the trouble of recording all of this. this happens to EVERY one of these cars!
No problem. Hope it helps someone.
@@unclemarksdiyauto hey helped me realize that im just gonna jerry rig it
@@nachosNipples Probably the way to go for sure.
the bolt and tape on the socket was a great tip...why cant i think of that kinda stuff when im in a street fighter on a project...thx uncle
Not sure where I learned the tape on the socket. But I didn’t originate the cool simple idea!
good video 📹 where u from
That part looks just like those cheap, junky mini compressors the parts place sells. One would be lucky to pump up a tire more than ten times! I've owned probably 8 of those! I just bet the new actuator is made to be even less dependable! Good video though! Shame on car makers for make life so hard on so many! Glad people like you share your knowledge!
It seems parts are being made cheaper and cheaper. They seem to last just until warranty is over! (Maybe exaggerating a bit-this car was 25 years old when I did the video)
Thanks Mark. Does sound like the control unit is going flakey. Off to the u pull a part .....
The saga continues on this car! There are door controls for the dual heating cooling. Pass side seems still stuck in hot! Drivers side is fine...video to come, but have not looked at it. Closest pick a part place is 4 hours round trip. Not sure when that will happen either!
You can get a Brand new
A/C-Delco from RockAuto for $14.
If you can get access to pull the electronic controller out to see if there may be a wire(s) loose connecting from the actuators to the back of the controller. If so pull each connector off, one at a time, clean each, put dialectic grease, reconnect and then check.
That would be a good next step, Maria. Sold the car in fall of 2022, and showed current owner the issue. Not sure if they have looked at it or not. These are really good cars.
Question My friend has a 94 park avenue ik his havac module was broken cause wasn't blowing through the dash vents so I found one and plug it in and put the vacuum lines back and start the car and it was working fine great and then the wasn't some how digital setting piece and buttons to chance the heat or vents is not working wondering what could cause it but I do see the blend door and the heat and cold working
Might there be something also wrong with the replacement module? You are saying you can’t change the temperature?
@@unclemarksdiyauto nothing everything was working fine then nothing I'm thinking it's the ac heater control module
@@shawndabelko187 all fuses check out? There are also some under the dash on pass side. (I sold the car and don’t have the book for reference)
What year Park Avenue is this? Mine is a 99 so I dont have to remove the dashboard? to set it on full defrost that would be stellar.
This is a 1996 model. It is easy enough to check if you can make it say in defrost.
Did you ever get the fix for this?, I have exact same thing going on with mine, actuator didn't move, removed installed it worked erratically and now I'm stuck like you, Thanks
I have since sold the car and was not able to come up with a proper fix. Sorry.
Thank you for your response
@@hrford8362 no problem.
Interesting! The power probe BT-260 looked inexpensive. Do you have a link to that tool? Thanks for the video! I subscribed.
This is a bit better brand for $8.00 more. amzn.to/3vosokv I have used the one in the video a lot.
@@unclemarksdiyauto Thanks!
@@donaldlee6699 Your welcome. What are you working on?
@@unclemarksdiyauto 2002 Buick Park Avenue door locks, power windows, and mirrors stopped working. Fuse? I believe it is a fuse in the glove compartment area? There is a main fuse in the engine compartment area? Thanks!
Very helpful video. I own a 92 park avenue i assume 91 96 are virtually the same. The automatic climate control on 91 96 buick park avenue and lesabres have a diagnostic mode I figured that out not long ago. And there are specific codes it puts out to diagnosis the problem. In the summer it showed a code 66 ( rapid cycling switch) for a/c replaced and fill with freon now my heat is messed up first cold day i set the control to full hot (90') then reduced it now the heat comes out the passenger defrost vent and not the floor. Ran diagnostics on it now it shows 140 ( blend door actuator) there is a chart u can pull up on google that shows the diagnostic chart. I did watch a video where a guy found a bad vacuum connection on his lesabre the the connector went bad the nipples were the lines connected got soft and collapsed which restricted vacuum flow im gonna check that first then revert to the actuator thanks for the video 👍
I believe 91 to 96 are very similar, but the 1996 had upgraded to the new OBDII. 1996 is the year everyone switched over. Let us know what you find out.
@@unclemarksdiyauto yep thats right 96 was obd II. Ill let ya know what i find thanks ! 😎👍
Found the problem its the vacuum block that operates the diagram easy fix. Relieved
@@hunterriley9904 So happy to hear it should be a “easy” fix. It could have been something hard or parts needed that don’t exist anymore.
@@unclemarksdiyauto oh yes theres a video 96 park avenue with samd problem hear basically cut it out and bypassed it color matched with 1)8 vacuum line
Pretty sure thats the temperature blend door motor NOT the Bi-Level door vacuum actuator….
You are probably right, Gijeff69. Sold the car so can’t check now.
Those other 3 pins were probably just simple end position sensor switches so the computer knows when it's reached either extreme end of travel. I'm assuming at least one of those switches failed, so the computer doesn't know what signal to send to the motor.
Just an assumption, but yeah my buddy's car has basically the same sh!t going on, I might have to check that.
Let us know what you find out Brian!
@@unclemarksdiyauto Oof, if I even remember or get a chance to check it. First I've gotta sort out a no crank issue, pretty sure it's gonna be the crankshaft position sensor or something related in the electrical.
I haven't even finished my initial basic troubleshooting on that just yet, I just did get the glovebox out to check relays and stuff first then totally randomly came down really sick at my stomach. 🤮
So anyways with the glovebox out and pretty much stuck inside until this mess passes, I've been doing research on the crankshaft position sensor and related circuits, and out of the blue your video here popped up so I'm like hell yeah, maybe with any luck I might manage to get the heat working again too.
But as of right now that's low on the priorities list, gotta get it back running first, and if basic electrical issues don't get it running again, we're gonna have to have it towed to a shop. Apartment rules here, can't do major vehicle work in the parking lot here, they wouldn't be too happy if I pulled the harmonic balancer here... ☹️
@@southernflatland If no start but it does crank, that could be cam or crank sensors. If no crank, for sure not them. No crank could be as simple as a relay. Security light is not on? Mine had that disabled a few years back. (Although it might still crank with security issue, cant remember)
@@unclemarksdiyauto Engine turns over, but won't start. I happened to be in the car when it failed (It's my roommate's car ya know), there was no spitting or sputtering, it was just like an instant fail.
I popped the quick disconnect fuel line to confirm the fuel pump still works, and yeah that's fine. I even have one of those spark plug tester pen tools and checked that too, still got spark on all cylinders even. So my immediate logic tells me that it lost power to all fuel injectors simultaneously, which must be either an electrical ground issue or a sensor. Hence why my research makes me highly suspicious of the crankshaft position sensor...
But you bring up the security light.. This car has had weird electrical ghost issues over the years, even including the security light randomly coming on sometimes, but the car kept running fine regardless.
Other ghost issues it's had over the years is sometimes the parking lights will flicker on and off all on their own, with the car shut off even, which of course drains the battery when it does this, so we'd just pull the fuse for it when it would act up, which honestly was pretty seldom, but still sucks.
Other random issues are that the fuel door don't open from the button anymore, neither does the trunk. I think both of those failed at the same time, but honestly I kinda forget.
What I REALLY want to do before hauling it into the shop is to do my best to check ALL the electrical system, well at least as much as I can manage to access. I'd like to even check behind the fuse/relay boxes for signs of hidden corrosion or other electrical issues ya know.
Plus I also really want to pressure wash the engine itself, particularly the serpentine belt side, to remove as much ancient gunk as I can, then check the crankshaft position sensor and other sensors around the area. But unfortunately we don't have a pressure washer and we're nowhere near any electrical outlet to even plug one up if we did have one...
Anyways, that's about where I'm at with it for the moment, thanks for taking the time to brainstorm over it and respond at least, I'm all ears!
@@unclemarksdiyauto Oh, oh!? This might be a stupid question, might not be, I dunno. Honestly I'm more familiar with throttle body injection systems, independent fuel injection is sorta new territory for me.
But is it possible it might be as simple as the throttle position sensor? Like if that crapped out, would it get absolutely zero fuel, or would the computer still assume it's at lowest idle position and keep running?
I dunno, but I definitely know how to test the TPS and have multimeter!