Love this guy. What makes him different is that he doesn't try and polish things up. He's honest with his abilities and limitations. He seeks genuine help from those in the know. It shouldn't be but his content is addictive. Keep it up Liam. Great work.
For your drainage iys cutting it real close. I would try and increase that fall as you risk blockages. Once you cast your floor your wont be able to change it later. You're loosing alot of height by trying to level the internal floor with the ground outside. Build your DPC up so you have 150mm up from the ground. your internal floor will be level will that so basically our internal floor will be 150mm above the garden ground level. this will also give you an additional 150mm for your waste flow as your toilet will be raised 150mm. If you try level with outside you will have dpc bridging issues. What you need to do is have a small sloped ramp up to your front door. As a new build this will be a requirement under part M regs. Just have a look at the front door detail of a nearby new build house. Need any guidance let us now and maybe can visit and collab on something. Hope this helps.
Been watching alot of your videos want to build a 5m x 3m but on another note you should do a compilation video of completed diy builds by people that have bought the build packs. Surely alot of people would be proud to send you a lit bit of footage to put in the compilation. Plus it gives people more ideas for their own diy builds for different finishes and styles. Great work btw.
Hindsight is a wonderful thing Liam but if you do again or to others who are having a go . I said before get the biggest digger you can access, scrape everything away and stone the full site up before you even start digging . You then are digging on clean level ground . Keep the digger on hire for bit longer and use to level around footing and around slab plus you can use to bring your materials round and save you Time and back ache .Buliding is always time v money and weather . The less you handball the better . Enjoy watching you your one of the best on here .
funny, the guy I hired the digger from said you could of done with a bigger one🤦🏻♂️🤣It would of made my life so much easier with level clean ground mate
Liam man yr videos are getting better and better. I’d really like to have a go at a build like this someday soon and your vids are giving me a lot of insight into what I will be able to (and won’t be able to) manage 👍👍👍
I built my own granny annex for my wife mum in 2005 and did it all myself I know exactly how hard it is but you will get there in the end. You could always consider putting a try damp course in which on the inside course of the building level with your finish floor level and make it higher on the outside course and under lentils, you can always take another course of blocks out which will lower the sewage pipe cheers mate have a good one 🍺🍺🍺👍👍👍
Well Liam the weather is much better 💜I purchased a gazebo so I could sand & paint my exterior cedar cladding on my house 💜 its been great kept me dry and the wood dry for sanding 💜 your building is beginning to take shape now 💜 keep up the good work 💜
The amount of detail and forward thinking is brilliant. I always wondered how to calculate ratios and stay within building regulations. First class liam.
For someone who's not a bricky you ain't doing too bad mate. I'm a bit like you learn as you go little tip for you tho once you've laid brick if it's a warm sunny day get it covered the sun will dry it out too quick and that decent mix will go to dust
Hi mate from my understanding if your internal level is the same as the external you will need to put aco drains around the perimeter of the flat. But then just be careful of the aco drains hitting the shallow soil pipes.
Personally I would install inspection chamber outside in the garden then work fall out from there. Will need access for rodding. 28 meters is a long way for rodding haha. Also your first 90 degree bend I would change to a bigger sweeping bend to give it the flow. Just an idea I could be wrong. Decent work though pal 💪🏻
I did my extension recently, and when I was making up the mark for the Bricky, he told me to use an old bin to keep water next to the mixer, much quicker than filling it up each time with a hosepipe
I built a log cabin a few years ago at the end of my garden and installed a toilet etc . I was concerned I didn’t have enough fall in the ground joining onto my sewer at rear of my house . The distance was similar to what your working to , I had a ratio of 1 in 80 and after using it for 3 years now and being able to watch the flow go through the first chamber I would certainly advise stronger than 1 in 80 . If you can get closer to 1 in 60 I’d really suggest that . Just saying from experience , don’t want any blockages . The 1 in 110 would never work .
If you are up North, see if you can get in touch with the channel called MrA Builders as there's a clever set of blokes who know all that complicated building stuff 👍 But I'm useless at this tagging stuff otherwise I'd do that They normally drop a video at around 4.30 on a Sunday afternoon so sorry popping a message to turn them I'm sure they can help, even if it's just taking you through it rather than an actual site visit 👍
Check out if you need to go to manhole to turn corners etc. You will drop 50mm but you can buy from OSMA very low drop inspection chambers.....also be careful for coming in a floor level and ground level, recommendation is two brick up from ground level....check out the nhbc standards. Great videos
after a long discussion with my plumber mate, Ive decided Im going to follow the plans and have the 150mm step up mate, its brining in too many issues other wise.
@@thegardenroomguru keep doing what your doing....ignore the negative people....half time they have nowt better to do. If you want your outside be flush with inside there is a detail on how to do it.....also ACO have details on how to do it, you need to install a threshold to maintain your dpc
liam with such shallow fall. have you thought about a macerator which will in theory turn all you solids to liquid so a shallower fall will be washed away easier and not block up.
I cant further edit the post, you can do it without the drainage. Need to protect the threshold so that water cant penetrate. The slabs/ floor outside must fall away from the door, like a ramp. The secondary dpc is required, 150mm above threshold, extending at least a metre either side of the opening. Hope the helps mate.
Ur dpc will be the same internal and external! U can get away with doing a c damp internally but with a solid concete subfloor a level trhesh hold isnt advisable and ur asking for damp problems
Re inside-outside levels, have you taken into account the 150mm drop from dpc to ground level? If you make them both the same, you'll have to put a moat all round the base of the building as dpc always sits at finished floor level
this is copy and paste mate, but seems to be the general census, A 110mm foul drain taking the discharge of less than 1 l/s should be laid at a 1:40 (25mm per metre) fall. A foul drain taking the discharge from a minimum of one WC can be laid at 1:80 (12.5mm per metre).
Why have you done a solid block out of ground, where will any ingress of water run down to without a cavity in the ground? You might have covered it but I’ve just found you, sorry.
they are footing blocks mate, what you're seeing there will all be under ground level when site is levelled, I had to dig out a lot of earth due to the rain I'd had in previous episodes.
Waste drainage should really be 1:40, you’ll not get any blockage problems, that would be 700mm over th 28 m, you can use pencil lintels they are only 75mm height inc 10mm bed. You’d be better raising the internal floor level n putting in a ramp at the front if access is an issue for elderly or disabled, think your headed for problems with a 1:93 for soil waste
To work out the fall 1 divided by 80 x length of run. ( 1:80 is a ratio you need to change it to a fraction 1 / 80 = 0.125 x 28m = 0.35 m so 350mm from the bottom invert level where you are tying into to the bottom of the furthest point of the drain run.
Cover your mortar from the 🌞, only workable for 2 hr's, with your trench block slide it back/ forward's ( on the bed) while taking some of the weight( block) work down to line any slight adjustments little tapi tapi with the 🔨. Leave 1/2 Barrow in Mixer, use up the other 1/2, back to mixer give 3min spin, it's a bit of messing about but worked for me, novice DIYer garden wall's. With soil waste pipe fall's, better to get expert advice, Notting eats Money like having to dig up layed work, could effect sale of bungalow, Cracking Channel
I hear you, and that’s how I started, but 5 was the limit, you had to load them in, unload them out. I found this method, all though more journeys, less labour intensive imo
Liam mate you need to keep the cement out of the sun. It’s set as your laying. Others who comment about gazebos are offering good advice. That and your health. When you pick the cement up… play with it in the barrow with the trowel. Wake it up. And… FFS, you need to set the job out better. Slow self down a bit and work smarter. Be unalive before you’re finished. Get the barrow cleaned out each mix. Chemical reaction with dried cement is sucking the moisture out your composition.
Liam mate you need to keep the cement out of the sun. It’s set as your laying. Others who comment about gazebos are offering good advice. That and your health. When you pick the cement up… play with it in the barrow with the trowel. Wake it up. And… FFS, you need to set the job out better. Slow self down a bit and work smarter. Be unalive before you’re finished. Get the barrow cleaned out each mix. Chemical reaction with dried cement is sucking the moisture out your composition.
@@thegardenroomguru i have watched them all... i guess the mess doesn't make for a smooth path to run the wheelbarrow but I swear by mine... it's probably the best thing I have that saves me from breaking down
Suns out …..Guns are out 🫵👍👏👏 here …. No need for the Gym Liam ….. the site is looking a lot more neat looking now …. Defo getting there to the next course …… although did I sense some aggression with the trowel 😂😂😂😂😂😂🙄👏👏👏
everyone else screaming watch the other videos and listen to where I say, this is far easier than loading and unloading the barrow, especially over the rough ground
I’d add 2 courses of engineering bricks(blue) so your DPC is 2 bricks above what you said. This should match your house and is the correct way. A shallow 2brick to ground level ramp to get in the entrance. Personally I think it will look better too. It will certainly stop future damp problems and your annex will look better built. Probably ease drainage install too, but that’s not my forte 🫡
Love this guy. What makes him different is that he doesn't try and polish things up. He's honest with his abilities and limitations. He seeks genuine help from those in the know. It shouldn't be but his content is addictive. Keep it up Liam. Great work.
Love the honesty and hard work buddy… and the random Deadpool mask😅
Only 2 people noticed 🤓😂
@@thegardenroomguru haha I was dying at that. Looking forward to him and Wolverine this month 🤓
@@MarcusT86 been waiting for it for a while, got a few more masks mate, comment if you see them
@@thegardenroomguru 😆 I will
Nobody can ask anymore from you, your giving it a go and doing your research. Wish you the best mate
cheers mate
For your drainage iys cutting it real close. I would try and increase that fall as you risk blockages. Once you cast your floor your wont be able to change it later. You're loosing alot of height by trying to level the internal floor with the ground outside. Build your DPC up so you have 150mm up from the ground. your internal floor will be level will that so basically our internal floor will be 150mm above the garden ground level. this will also give you an additional 150mm for your waste flow as your toilet will be raised 150mm. If you try level with outside you will have dpc bridging issues. What you need to do is have a small sloped ramp up to your front door. As a new build this will be a requirement under part M regs. Just have a look at the front door detail of a nearby new build house. Need any guidance let us now and maybe can visit and collab on something. Hope this helps.
yeah, the drawings show 150mm step up mate, was trying to avoid the ramp situation, but it would solve all issues I guess.
@@thegardenroomguru Collabbbbb
Been watching alot of your videos want to build a 5m x 3m but on another note you should do a compilation video of completed diy builds by people that have bought the build packs. Surely alot of people would be proud to send you a lit bit of footage to put in the compilation. Plus it gives people more ideas for their own diy builds for different finishes and styles. Great work btw.
Hindsight is a wonderful thing Liam but if you do again or to others who are having a go . I said before get the biggest digger you can access, scrape everything away and stone the full site up before you even start digging . You then are digging on clean level ground . Keep the digger on hire for bit longer and use to level around footing and around slab plus you can use to bring your materials round and save you
Time and back ache .Buliding is always time v money and weather . The less you handball the better . Enjoy watching you your one of the best on here .
funny, the guy I hired the digger from said you could of done with a bigger one🤦🏻♂️🤣It would of made my life so much easier with level clean ground mate
Such a great watch and so inspiring mate. Keep up the amazing work and we are all behind you mate!!!
thanks mate, hope you're well
You're doing a crackin' job mate. Look forward to the next vid.
Keep going Liam, great content as always 👊
Great just finished work now I get to watch you do some work
Looking forward to this. Am on +7 hours and just chillin in bed
😂
@@thegardenroomguruno keyboard warriors here just learning lol
💪🏻
Another brilliant video. Thank you.
Your doing well Liam keep going mate .❤
Sun's out guns out
You remind me of the bad guy in commando with that black vest on "let of some steam Bennett" 😂 great job doing that in the heat.
🤣
Liam man yr videos are getting better and better. I’d really like to have a go at a build like this someday soon and your vids are giving me a lot of insight into what I will be able to (and won’t be able to) manage 👍👍👍
thanks mate, but don't let mine put double t into you, the weather has had my life but its certainly improving.
I built my own granny annex for my wife mum in 2005 and did it all myself I know exactly how hard it is but you will get there in the end. You could always consider putting a try damp course in which on the inside course of the building level with your finish floor level and make it higher on the outside course and under
lentils, you can always take another course of blocks out which will lower the sewage pipe cheers mate have a good one 🍺🍺🍺👍👍👍
Thanks mate
A well deserved beer Liam. Coming on great now💪🏻👍🏻
Thanks mate
Well Liam the weather is much better 💜I purchased a gazebo so I could sand & paint my exterior cedar cladding on my house 💜 its been great kept me dry and the wood dry for sanding 💜 your building is beginning to take shape now 💜 keep up the good work 💜
Nice work liam , coming on nicely , well done deserved beer
The amount of detail and forward thinking is brilliant. I always wondered how to calculate ratios and stay within building regulations. First class liam.
Cheers mate
For someone who's not a bricky you ain't doing too bad mate. I'm a bit like you learn as you go little tip for you tho once you've laid brick if it's a warm sunny day get it covered the sun will dry it out too quick and that decent mix will go to dust
Very nice Liam , looking good 👍 👍👍👍🏴🏴☘️☘️🏴👍
It's starting to take shape now Liam ! hard work but looking good.
Great stuff
And whoever gave the tip about using the blocks of roof in those carrier things, worthy of at least a beer 🍺
A few mentioned it mate, it was a game changer for me
No way there for moving brick from a loading bay. Use a wheel barrow 10 blocks one journey????
@@andygreenaway6459 that would be 195kg in a barrow mate, it’s not pushing
@@andygreenaway6459. Thermalites ?
@@thegardenroomguru you had a dumper there could of made life easier and quicker why didn’t you use Trench blocks it in a link.
I basically watch these now to see if the fence is fixed 😁
soon as it can be, it will
So used to seeing you doing timber things, I had to take a double take to understand what was going on
Hi mate from my understanding if your internal level is the same as the external you will need to put aco drains around the perimeter of the flat. But then just be careful of the aco drains hitting the shallow soil pipes.
Personally I would install inspection chamber outside in the garden then work fall out from there. Will need access for rodding. 28 meters is a long way for rodding haha.
Also your first 90 degree bend I would change to a bigger sweeping bend to give it the flow.
Just an idea I could be wrong.
Decent work though pal 💪🏻
Not just informative but great entertainment, keep going buddy,
Appreciate your comment mate
I did my extension recently, and when I was making up the mark for the Bricky, he told me to use an old bin to keep water next to the mixer, much quicker than filling it up each time with a hosepipe
Problem is, I don’t have an old bin mate, and buying one ain’t happening 😬
@@alexnorcliffe8220 been doing that be for years that’s all we had on sites. None of this silo shite
😂😂 Your neighbours 100% look over the fence and see you talking to yourself… Then think you’re a lunatic.
Thats a deffinate mate🤦🏻♂️
Was not expecting the deadpool ski mask when cutting the blocks. 🤣
I can't believe only 1 person seen it, just goes to show, no body watches it all🤣 congrats mate, appreciate it.
@@thegardenroomguruI noticed the mask liam it gave me a giggle 😅
Great video thanks
I use a sack truck to move blocks saves your shoulders
I built a log cabin a few years ago at the end of my garden and installed a toilet etc . I was concerned I didn’t have enough fall in the ground joining onto my sewer at rear of my house .
The distance was similar to what your working to , I had a ratio of 1 in 80 and after using it for 3 years now and being able to watch the flow go through the first chamber I would certainly advise stronger than 1 in 80 . If you can get closer to 1 in 60 I’d really suggest that .
Just saying from experience , don’t want any blockages . The 1 in 110 would never work .
1 in 110 does seem ridiculous doesn't it🤣 thanks for comment mate
If you are up North, see if you can get in touch with the channel called MrA Builders as there's a clever set of blokes who know all that complicated building stuff 👍
But I'm useless at this tagging stuff otherwise I'd do that
They normally drop a video at around 4.30 on a Sunday afternoon so sorry popping a message to turn them
I'm sure they can help, even if it's just taking you through it rather than an actual site visit 👍
Great to see you really progressing out of the ground, maybe halving the mix amounts will prevent it getting too stiff?
On hot days add a few ice cubes to the mix
Check out if you need to go to manhole to turn corners etc. You will drop 50mm but you can buy from OSMA very low drop inspection chambers.....also be careful for coming in a floor level and ground level, recommendation is two brick up from ground level....check out the nhbc standards. Great videos
after a long discussion with my plumber mate, Ive decided Im going to follow the plans and have the 150mm step up mate, its brining in too many issues other wise.
@@thegardenroomguru keep doing what your doing....ignore the negative people....half time they have nowt better to do. If you want your outside be flush with inside there is a detail on how to do it.....also ACO have details on how to do it, you need to install a threshold to maintain your dpc
Great video again liam. Now ffs subscribe to this channel if you haven't already because there's more to come and its FREEEE
thanks mate! appreciate the comment
Another great video just made donation not much but it all adds up
Thanks mate, appreciated
Liam, use an electric water heater.
There’s no need for gas water heating.
Liam, aim more towards the 1:40 ratio.
The last thing you want is it not being steep enough, to flush everything away with ease.
liam with such shallow fall. have you thought about a macerator which will in theory turn all you solids to liquid so a shallower fall will be washed away easier and not block up.
Yess! That’s 30 minutes of my Saturday night sorted 😅😅
😂
You remind me of me but I would have barrowed those blocks in lol
trying to loose weight mate, I also find easier than unloading the barrow on the rough ground tbh
for waste I'd prefer to be much closer to 1:40, 1:80 would be more for rainwater. any sticky solids will just struggle washing away.
I cant further edit the post, you can do it without the drainage. Need to protect the threshold so that water cant penetrate. The slabs/ floor outside must fall away from the door, like a ramp. The secondary dpc is required, 150mm above threshold, extending at least a metre either side of the opening. Hope the helps mate.
Just wondering if when it's hot, you moisten the blocks as you use them, it should help for when the muck starts drying out
From very recent comments, I need to keep the mortar in the shade mate, bit of kingspan insulation over the barrow works apparently
Ur dpc will be the same internal and external! U can get away with doing a c damp internally but with a solid concete subfloor a level trhesh hold isnt advisable and ur asking for damp problems
Re inside-outside levels, have you taken into account the 150mm drop from dpc to ground level? If you make them both the same, you'll have to put a moat all round the base of the building as dpc always sits at finished floor level
A bloke told me what to Google, but I can’t find the message, it’s doable, just need a drawing
@@thegardenroomguru Optional, but a second dpm between insulation and concrete is often used
@ratkinson-uk I remember he said something about a second one
You have a 1 in 93 chance of being right with that maths mate
If I’m not right please correct me 1”80 is for storm water 1”40 is foul water required run
this is copy and paste mate, but seems to be the general census, A 110mm foul drain taking the discharge of less than 1 l/s should be laid at a 1:40 (25mm per metre) fall. A foul drain taking the discharge from a minimum of one WC can be laid at 1:80 (12.5mm per metre).
I bet your neighbour will be glad when the fence goes back up😂
Fence belongs to me, they’re all good
When u do youre floor u turn you're damp membrane up inside onto damp course course
Would you not risk flooding if you have your interior level the same as outside ground level?
I'm reverting back to the original plan mate, its causing too many problems before I've even started.
What was that sheet you are using to keep track of costings, excel?
its on google spread sheets mate
Also don't forget rainwater, they usually want a soakaway.
Combined sewer mate
Hi Liam, how come you’re not stick building? Just brick slips and/ir render on the external to match the main house then. You’d have it up toot sweet!
Needed the change mate
@@thegardenroomguru when you finish, could pop down to Devon for 6 months and build mine please? 305 sqm, I’ll be your bitch! 😂
@skiiddy sign me up! I’ve a wardrobe of size medium I’m refusing to let go off
Question: Does the new build get a dedicated electric supply from the road or is it a spur off the main house?
Spur off the main house mate
Why have you done a solid block out of ground, where will any ingress of water run down to without a cavity in the ground? You might have covered it but I’ve just found you, sorry.
they are footing blocks mate, what you're seeing there will all be under ground level when site is levelled, I had to dig out a lot of earth due to the rain I'd had in previous episodes.
@@thegardenroomguru as long as you have at least 225mm space/gap between the dpc and the top of the block.
£20k all in i reckon
im n to far off 10 now mate😬
Waste drainage should really be 1:40, you’ll not get any blockage problems, that would be 700mm over th 28 m, you can use pencil lintels they are only 75mm height inc 10mm bed.
You’d be better raising the internal floor level n putting in a ramp at the front if access is an issue for elderly or disabled, think your headed for problems with a 1:93 for soil waste
Doesn’t DPC need to be 150mm above outside ground level?
Yes, but there’s a drawing somewhere for what I want
why not go up another course of blocks. and slope garden up towards entrance? this would deffo get your drain fall
I originally raised the ground to stop the water logging issue mate, I'm high already compared to my neighbours.
So is your granny actually moving in
Unfortunately, I don’t have a granny, it’ll be someone else life
Any update on the ONLYPLANS CLOTHEING??
just waiting on the suppliers mate, they are painful
To work out the fall 1 divided by 80 x length of run. ( 1:80 is a ratio you need to change it to a fraction
1 / 80 = 0.125 x 28m = 0.35 m so 350mm from the bottom invert level where you are tying into to the bottom of the furthest point of the drain run.
Let the poop flow on water instead of water flying and poop being left behind
For every meter drop 25 mm max 10 mm minimum
Cover your mortar from the 🌞, only workable for 2 hr's, with your trench block slide it back/ forward's ( on the bed) while taking some of the weight( block) work down to line any slight adjustments little tapi tapi with the 🔨. Leave 1/2 Barrow in Mixer, use up the other 1/2, back to mixer give 3min spin, it's a bit of messing about but worked for me, novice DIYer garden wall's.
With soil waste pipe fall's, better to get expert advice, Notting eats Money like having to dig up layed work, could effect sale of bungalow, Cracking Channel
Sorry chief but I would put 6 to 8 blocks in that barrow and have less trips.😊
I hear you, and that’s how I started, but 5 was the limit, you had to load them in, unload them out. I found this method, all though more journeys, less labour intensive imo
Hes working at a steady pace, he said this on his first video. There's no rush. No point breaking his self when he's got all the time in the world.
@cal401 exactly mate, learning curve, day at a time
@@thegardenroomguru that's it mate, keep bringing the videos. Your smashing it pal 👍🏻
@@thegardenroomguru What suits you best. Not everyone is the same size and strength. All the best.
Need a catapult for that compo. Keep working it. It looks like it’s set on the trowel. 🙄
Elaborate mate
Liam mate you need to keep the cement out of the sun. It’s set as your laying. Others who comment about gazebos are offering good advice. That and your health. When you pick the cement up… play with it in the barrow with the trowel. Wake it up. And… FFS, you need to set the job out better. Slow self down a bit and work smarter. Be unalive before you’re finished. Get the barrow cleaned out each mix. Chemical reaction with dried cement is sucking the moisture out your composition.
Liam mate you need to keep the cement out of the sun. It’s set as your laying. Others who comment about gazebos are offering good advice. That and your health. When you pick the cement up… play with it in the barrow with the trowel. Wake it up. And… FFS, you need to set the job out better. Slow self down a bit and work smarter. Be unalive before you’re finished. Get the barrow cleaned out each mix. Chemical reaction with dried cement is sucking the moisture out your composition.
Also internal floor level should be minimum 150 above external ground level
sent you a WhatsApp message on the burner phone its a shallow fall drops about 10mm per meter
I'm stepping up in the room mate, too many issues
why didn't you use your wheelbarrow to carry the blocks? if you've lost it it's right there in the front of the camera 😂
Watch the series, you’ll know why this method is less ball ache
well done Liam, glad your oot of the ground and the sun is shining on you at last. about time. onwards and upwards.
@@thegardenroomguru i have watched them all... i guess the mess doesn't make for a smooth path to run the wheelbarrow but I swear by mine... it's probably the best thing I have that saves me from breaking down
@markdyballuk mate, I’m trying to loose weight, I’m taking the tough road for a reason, it’s a workout
@@thegardenroomguru ah ok mate, i'm a bit slow... wakey lad you understand... more power to you Liam x
Suns out …..Guns are out 🫵👍👏👏 here …. No need for the Gym Liam ….. the site is looking a lot more neat looking now …. Defo getting there to the next course …… although did I sense some aggression with the trowel 😂😂😂😂😂😂🙄👏👏👏
Maybe a little 👀😂
Remember ya sun screen 🦞 ❤
Everyone screaming use the fuckin barrow lad
everyone else screaming watch the other videos and listen to where I say, this is far easier than loading and unloading the barrow, especially over the rough ground
Get the fuckin barrow for god sake
@deet1558 watch the other videos before you comment
I’d add 2 courses of engineering bricks(blue) so your DPC is 2 bricks above what you said. This should match your house and is the correct way. A shallow 2brick to ground level ramp to get in the entrance. Personally I think it will look better too. It will certainly stop future damp problems and your annex will look better built. Probably ease drainage install too, but that’s not my forte 🫡