Important tip: wipe *with* the edges of the aperture blades, not against them! For example, the front should be wiped by going counter clockwise. This prevents damage to the aperture blades. You can gently pull vertically against the edge of the blades to get any stuck oil. Also, partially opening the blades will reveal other areas you can't reach with them fully closed. Also, *never* clean your lens with alcohol. It can haze or completely remove coatings. I found this out the hard way. Use lens cleaning fluid designed for camera lenses. You'll also want to blow off each lens before assembly, otherwise dust will get into the lens.
@@samsen3965 No, it's diluted a bit. I also thought the same thing & was just using alcohol. It damaged my coatings. Especially if you are using it for lens repair, as the inner lens coatings are not nearly robust as the outer coatings are. Full strength alcohol can remove coatings, or cause them to haze up. Both of which are unable to be repaired. Also, *NEVER* use alcohol or lens cleaner on your focusing screen! That will immediately "craze" the micro plastic, making it hazy. Only use distilled water & cleaning q-tips (or microfiber cleaning tips) on your focusing screen. It's super sensitive & easily damaged.
@@samsen3965 I also did look up camera lens cleaner, & the professional stuff doesn't contain alcohol or ammonia. Some cheaper eye glass lens cleaner does have alcohol, but you can find warnings all over the internet to not use this stuff, even on eye glasses. Canon's own lens care says to never use alcohol based cleansers. So definitely be careful what you use. I think alcohol is OK in most instances if diluted to 15% or less, but you may not want to learn the hard way on an expensive lens. Thankfully I haven't damaged any new lenses, but I did mess up one cheaper vintage lens. That was using full strength alcohol before I knew better. You can only use full strength to break down oils on aperture blades, like in this video. It is very time consuming to do properly without removing the aperture completely; but useful in instances where full disassembly is complicated. Just be sure that the q-tip isn't overly saturated, as it will drip onto the lens below. I dip the q-tip in alcohol, then gently touch it to a dry paper towel. This wicks up any excess alcohol from the q-tip so it won't drip.
You need to dismantle all the aperture blades for cleaning and also clean the base of the aperture blades. Otherwise, even a slight bit of residual grease will cause the aperture to stick again.
@@machia0705 I am very happy to know that you found the video useful! If you have not subscribed yet, I invite you to do so to see more videos like this!
Thank you for uploading this video. Very interesting! One question...why didn’t you remove the oil from the plastic ring of the front element and its “nest” inside the lens? Wouldn’t that cause the aperture to get stuck again?
Can you unscrew the front element without removing the back one first? Say for example I only needed to clean the inside of the front element... Thanks in advance!
I have a 85mm Minolta AF and looks similar as the back part, I have dust inside to the lense but no oily looking on the blades.. do I just clean the lense inside from the front of it? I did a review of them using my A6000
The addition of the overhead led's really elevated this to fine art, thx for the experience!
Important tip: wipe *with* the edges of the aperture blades, not against them! For example, the front should be wiped by going counter clockwise. This prevents damage to the aperture blades. You can gently pull vertically against the edge of the blades to get any stuck oil. Also, partially opening the blades will reveal other areas you can't reach with them fully closed.
Also, *never* clean your lens with alcohol. It can haze or completely remove coatings. I found this out the hard way. Use lens cleaning fluid designed for camera lenses. You'll also want to blow off each lens before assembly, otherwise dust will get into the lens.
Good advice. However, isn't the commercial lens cleaning solution the same as concentrated isopropyl alcohol?
@@samsen3965 No, it's diluted a bit. I also thought the same thing & was just using alcohol. It damaged my coatings. Especially if you are using it for lens repair, as the inner lens coatings are not nearly robust as the outer coatings are. Full strength alcohol can remove coatings, or cause them to haze up. Both of which are unable to be repaired.
Also, *NEVER* use alcohol or lens cleaner on your focusing screen! That will immediately "craze" the micro plastic, making it hazy. Only use distilled water & cleaning q-tips (or microfiber cleaning tips) on your focusing screen. It's super sensitive & easily damaged.
@@samsen3965 I also did look up camera lens cleaner, & the professional stuff doesn't contain alcohol or ammonia. Some cheaper eye glass lens cleaner does have alcohol, but you can find warnings all over the internet to not use this stuff, even on eye glasses. Canon's own lens care says to never use alcohol based cleansers. So definitely be careful what you use. I think alcohol is OK in most instances if diluted to 15% or less, but you may not want to learn the hard way on an expensive lens. Thankfully I haven't damaged any new lenses, but I did mess up one cheaper vintage lens. That was using full strength alcohol before I knew better.
You can only use full strength to break down oils on aperture blades, like in this video. It is very time consuming to do properly without removing the aperture completely; but useful in instances where full disassembly is complicated. Just be sure that the q-tip isn't overly saturated, as it will drip onto the lens below. I dip the q-tip in alcohol, then gently touch it to a dry paper towel. This wicks up any excess alcohol from the q-tip so it won't drip.
@@k-ozdragon 🙏🏻
Hello, would you be so kind to tell us on which lens alcohol destroyed coatings?Thanks in advance.
Very detailed! Keep making videos! Love it
Hello Alexis,
Thanks for your comments!
Great, it helped a lot. You saved my day
Hi Tomas,
Glad to hear that!
You need to dismantle all the aperture blades for cleaning and also clean the base of the aperture blades. Otherwise, even a slight bit of residual grease will cause the aperture to stick again.
Keep making videos. Can't wait to watch another one. Thanks!
Hello Alexis,
Thanks for your comments!
That encourage me to keep going!
Verydetailed , very helpful! Thank you so much!!!!
Great video, would this procedure be the same on a minolta 35mm-70mm f4 zoom? Cheers
Hello William;
I do not know if your lens disassemble in the same way as this lens.
Hopefully someone from the community can guide us in this regard.
Thank you so much ! Question : No auto focus and aperture blade motor inside ?
camera driven autofocus and aperture
Thanks, it helped!
Hi Neko,
Thank you to watch my videos!
My old Rokkor lenses need a tune-up:
28mm 35mm 45mm 58mm f1.4 85mm f1.7 35-70mm 135mm
Thanks!
Hello Machia0705,
Thanks for your comments and thanks for watch my videos!
@@photographyandmore
I cleaned the 7 lenses today.
Presentation was excellent, clear and concise.
Thanks from New Jersey.
@@machia0705 I am very happy to know that you found the video useful!
If you have not subscribed yet, I invite you to do so to see more videos like this!
Thank you for uploading this video. Very interesting! One question...why didn’t you remove the oil from the plastic ring of the front element and its “nest” inside the lens? Wouldn’t that cause the aperture to get stuck again?
Thanks! It realy helped.
Can you unscrew the front element without removing the back one first? Say for example I only needed to clean the inside of the front element... Thanks in advance!
Thank you :) Dziekuje
I have a 85mm Minolta AF and looks similar as the back part, I have dust inside to the lense but no oily looking on the blades.. do I just clean the lense inside from the front of it? I did a review of them using my A6000
If it ain't broken, don't fix it. I'd clean all dust and focus on that only, if that's your current problem.