Been a year since I've ran one, and never considered myself a expert with the computer. So you've been warned. You could tighten up just the bottom knife, or less pulse on that knife, or loosen the main knives. As I remember there is adjustment on that bottom knife for flare, or the amount that bottom knife closes on a new stem. I remember opening the main knives at times when reversing. Try not to reverse after zeroing the saw, your measurements will suffer. Keeping the knives sharp helps with this. If you can't get it sorted, give Log Max a call at three60 six99 730zero. They helped me many times. Good luck!
I don't know. I have had the couplers on encoder fail multiple times, primarily from bushing and pin wear on drive wheels. Once a new coupler , or encoder is installed, it seems to be accurate again. So with my limited experience, maybe it auto calibrates with the wheels full open and closed. There is also the option in computer to use left, or right, or both, if one encoder is damaged. There is a screen to calibrate diameter, but like I said I've never had to use it. Maybe a Log Max guru will chime in.
The easiest way and most accurate is to cut three pieces ranging in diameter. It doesn’t have to be exact but like a 20”, 12”, and 6” piece. Lay them out and measure with a tape and convert to MM. you will also measure between the wheels all the way open and then closed. Write this all down and now jump in machine. Go to settings- calibration-calibrate- basic setting diameter. You have to start with wheels all the way open and next to sensor value touch diameter and enter in your MM. usually 750 and hit add .Activate head at bottom right and you can run head. Grab the largest tree now and back it to the butt end you measured and your next to your changed sensor value enter in the measurement. Do this for the remaining trees and then drop trees out and close the feed wheels and that will be your final value. Hit save and you should be close. I always grab the trees back in processing and verify what I entered is now accurate. I also usually take about a quarter inch off the trees I measured to compensate for the penetration from the V- bars on feed wheels. You also don’t really need the AFC. In northern Wisconsin we cut primarily hardwood and in my opinion it does not allow the wood to float through the head loose enough. You can set up your knife pulse open and close times and get that hardwood to float through the head better. In pine it’s great but again also not needed. Hope this helps
How do I get logs to stay in rollers better when reverse feeding? Lower knife pulse need to be lowered?
Been a year since I've ran one, and never considered myself a expert with the computer. So you've been warned. You could tighten up just the bottom knife, or less pulse on that knife, or loosen the main knives. As I remember there is adjustment on that bottom knife for flare, or the amount that bottom knife closes on a new stem. I remember opening the main knives at times when reversing. Try not to reverse after zeroing the saw, your measurements will suffer. Keeping the knives sharp helps with this. If you can't get it sorted, give Log Max a call at three60 six99 730zero. They helped me many times. Good luck!
Is there a good way to calibrate diameter?
I don't know. I have had the couplers on encoder fail multiple times, primarily from bushing and pin wear on drive wheels. Once a new coupler , or encoder is installed, it seems to be accurate again. So with my limited experience, maybe it auto calibrates with the wheels full open and closed. There is also the option in computer to use left, or right, or both, if one encoder is damaged. There is a screen to calibrate diameter, but like I said I've never had to use it. Maybe a Log Max guru will chime in.
@@weilfast
The easiest way and most accurate is to cut three pieces ranging in diameter. It doesn’t have to be exact but like a 20”, 12”, and 6” piece. Lay them out and measure with a tape and convert to MM. you will also measure between the wheels all the way open and then closed. Write this all down and now jump in machine. Go to settings- calibration-calibrate- basic setting diameter. You have to start with wheels all the way open and next to sensor value touch diameter and enter in your MM. usually 750 and hit add .Activate head at bottom right and you can run head. Grab the largest tree now and back it to the butt end you measured and your next to your changed sensor value enter in the measurement. Do this for the remaining trees and then drop trees out and close the feed wheels and that will be your final value. Hit save and you should be close. I always grab the trees back in processing and verify what I entered is now accurate. I also usually take about a quarter inch off the trees I measured to compensate for the penetration from the V- bars on feed wheels.
You also don’t really need the AFC. In northern Wisconsin we cut primarily hardwood and in my opinion it does not allow the wood to float through the head loose enough. You can set up your knife pulse open and close times and get that hardwood to float through the head better. In pine it’s great but again also not needed. Hope this helps