For what it's worth, there's no need to fret about getting the guidescope perfectly aligned with the imaging scope / lens in order to get good guiding. What matters is that the guidescope doesn't move at all relative to the mount over time. The weak link in this setup would be the single screw connecting the plate to the scope, since it might permit rotation of the guidescope over time. Even if you're using the guidescope camera for polar alignment (SharpCap and I think the ASIAir does the same basic routine), as long as the guidescope is in the right ballpark the calculations that determine the axis of rotation will still work out correctly. What matters most is that the guidescope is rock solid over the imaging session.
I'm a little confused about you atatement. In my understanding, the polar alignment won't be accurate only if the axis of the guidescope parallels with it of the camera lens. Would you mind telling me why the solid connectio of the guidescope and the camera matters most?
Sure, first let's talk about polar alignment. It depends on how you are doing a polar alignment. If you're using a traditional polar scope inside the mount, then the polar scope should be aligned with the axis of rotation of the mount. Then you look through it, align polaris etc... If that's how you're doing a polar alignment, the polar scope alignment matters a whole lot (with the mount, not the imaging scope), but you'll note that it's difficult to be accurate because on things like the iOptron Skyguider Pro, the polar scope can freely rotate inside the mount, so there is inherent inaccuracy because you have to 'eyeball' getting the reticle straight up and down, which is impossible on the scale of arcseconds. Because of that, a lot of people have moved away from sighting polaris down a polar scope and use electronic polar alignment. One popular way this is done is by using the guidescope (and guide camera) and a platesolving routine like in _SharpCap Pro_ and I think the _ZWO ASIair_ uses the same concept. The way this works is that the guidescope needs to be pointed in the general vicinity of the northern celestial pole but accuracy isn't all that important because of the rest of the alignment routine. The first thing it does it platesolve the image in the guidescope, which orients the software to where the guidescope is pointed in the sky. Then it will ask you to rotate your mount's RA axis through a minimum of 90 degrees and it will plate solve again. After it platesolve's the second image, the software can calculate two important things; exactly where north or south celestial pole _should_ be based on the images it just solved, and the exact axis of rotation of your mount.. Because it knows those two things, it also knows the offset between your _mount_ and the pole. Polar alignment is the process of making that offset as close to 0 as possible. Then it has you make adjustments to minimize that offset by adjusting the alt/az knobs on the mount to minimize the error. It will plate solve again and tell you how well you've done. You'll notice that at no time does the guidescope actually need to be pointed directly at the pole, or even in line with your mount, the math will figure out the offset regardless and at no point does the imaging scope or imaging camera play into this process at all. As far as actually guiding while imaging, PHD2, or whatever guiding software you're using doesn't care what you're actually taking images of. All it cares about is that it can see a guide star and keep it in the exact same spot on the screen by feeding error corrections to the mount over time. Guiding is a process that occurs between the guidescope, software, and the mount. The imaging scope and imaging camera are irrelevant. So in order for guiding to be accurate, the guidescope and the mount must be as rigidly coupled as possible over the duration of the imaging session so that the only errors the guidescope sees are the result of the mount's inaccuracies, not the results of things like a loose screw or vibrations or being bumped etc... If the guidescope is slipping over time, it will feed bad error corrections to the mount and make it move more or less than it actually needed to.
@@KnyghtErrant Thanks for your detailed explanation. At first I was considering this process with the default mind of using the sighting polar scope and concluded that the two axes of polar scope and image scope must parallel with each other. Now I realize with the help of self-correction software, the guidescop can cacalculate the offset between the guidescope and the image scope as well as where the real pole should be by comparing multiple images captured in the general northern celestial pole area. Then it will tell you how to fine the knobs on the star tracker to minimize the inaccuracy without adjust the guidescope to fix it's axis. This is truely a talented idea!
@@KnyghtErrant Can you educate me on why it doesn't matter if the scope is on your camera vs the tracker? Does the software know after polar alignment any portion of the sky? Once you rotate your camera and polar scope to the south, how does it continue to guide? TIA.
@@michaelwmcdonald Polar alignment and guiding are two independent things, so once you've polar aligned your mount (and you may be using your guidescope to accomplish this), the axis of the mount body remains fixed with respect to the celestial pole for the rest of the imaging session and never needs to be adjusted again. You are now free to move your RA and Dec axes to point your guidescope and imaging scope towards your target. The guidescope is now functioning as a guidescope, not a polar alignment tool, so it will guide like normal off of a star in the vicinity of your target.
Hi, I bought a universal L bracket for my D850 but I mount it on the other side where the slots for the memory cards are. This way I always have access to all ports on the other side. And this also has the advantage to give more clearance between the guide scope and my 200-500mm lens so that the lens hood does not interfere with the guide scope when at 500mm. For the same reason this is why I attached the plate to the dovetail, give more clearance.
I've got a D750 (about the same size) and like how you did it. Can you provide a link to get the bracket? (That's the same monster lens I want to use for planets.)
I agree with Ianeck Wange, that it is simpler to mount the L-bracket to the right side of the camera. My setup is in progress, waiting on the Zwo guide camera Peter recommended. I did not learn of the existence of L-brackets with openings for cables until this video. I worked to make the guide scope not rotate in its mount. I carved a chunk of wood (holes, etc) to connect the guide scope (same as Peter shows) to my L-bracket with a single piece of wood and a sliver of aluminum. I have the advantage of owning a mortising drill/tool that let me fit the scope 'stem', without the dovetail, into my wood. I've struggled with it, so won't argue that there aren't any lessons to learn.
I did this a few days ago, from memory. It added an awkward center of gravity. It's currently running. I refreshed my memory by watching the video again. Smart removing the SYNTA style dovetail. I'm using the Tamron 150-600 as well. When I try to calibration the guiding in asiair, it is all over the place. It just stopped guiding, and continued tracking with the guider inactive. I'll reconfigure the mount sans SYNTA plate. Thanks.
A few things Peter, 1. many company's make L brackets that the L part is adjustable in/out so then you can just slide the L part in or out without moving the Arca Swiss clamp up or down. Also since the weight of the guide scope is not very heavy, the thinest Arca Swiss clamp may be the best choice and it will clamp as good as that large clamp and more room to add or remove cables around the L part. As well as if others like Kirk or RRS or Small Rig has low cost L brackets, but there are universal L brackets on Amazon, not a perfect fit as it's not custom but will work fo that guide scope and light guide camera..
Dude!!!!!!! this is awsome... i had already bought all the parts and just couldnt figure out how to attach the damn mini scope to the clamp LOL... but thanks to this I got it... thanks a lot!!
I used a cage rather than an L bracket. That lets you use this same procedure to add the guide camera to the top of the cage in line with the lens, or - what I do - add the guide camera on one side and my ASIair on the other, roughly balancing.
One suggestion - just did this exact same thing with the same scope and same clamp. The little 2mm pins that help keep the scope square on the dovetail bracket will fit nicely into the detents on the bottom of the arca swiss clamp too - helps keep the scope from rotating. Also, I did end up losing one of the pins that came with mine, but I was able to make a new one with an old bike spoke (in case anyone else loses theirs too).
Thank you extremely helpful as always. Could you please please do a similar video on how to focus the guide scope. I am new at this and I can’t find a single set of instructions about that. Your calm precise and step by step approach would really help
Hook up the scope to your laptop in daylight and focus on infinity by sliding the camera head in/out of the scope tube. I mark this position with a thin slice of masking tape so that each time I reassemble, I quickly put the two parts together at exactly the correct distance for infinity focus. Set the exposure & gain to auto in software which will help get an image you can see to enable correct focus. Should only take a few mins.
You can also attach both, your DSLR and the guide scope to a sibgle bottlm plate, side by side, you will ten have all ports accessible, but this will make it a bit heavier than the Lbrackt
Thanks so much for the wonderful tutorials. One quick question , if the guide scope is pointed in the same direction of the lens on the camera toward the Milky Way, it is almost 180 degreese from Polaris. I would think we need it to point to the North Star along with the guide scope to get the correct polar allignment. thanks
Peter, this is a most t useful and practical video. The one detail left out here (and in the ZWO 30mm f/4 guide scope manual) is the size of the screw necessary to bolt the scope mast to the new small plate. The 38mm plate I purchased is drilled out, but did not come with any screw. The screw used by ZWO to bolt the rail to the scope mast is too short. I can find no reference to it on the web anywhere I have looked. Would you know what metric bolt diameter to use (e.g. M6 or M8, etc.)? I, and I am sure others, would appreciate knowing this critical bit of information to implement your solution. Thanks in advance!
It looks like most arca-swiss clamps use a 3/8" thread by default, with the adapter removed at 3:52 being a 3/8" to 1/4". What I'm not sure about are the other aspects of its size (specifically the head, so that it fits flush with the surface of the plate) and length, so that it can reach through the plate into the foot of the guidescope but not so long that it pushes past it. Also, nobody sells screws individually, so you end up having to buying a pack of 20 or 30 just to use 1. Very annoying that some (many) clamps don't provide a center screw. The author really should've mentioned that instead of assuming all clamps provided one.
For my DSLR I use a Smallrig cage. I found that i have more options to attach the guide scope and accessories than just a L bracket. unfortunatly there is no Rig for all the camera on the market.
this looks like a very viable option.. seems that at some point you are going to need access to the usb and shutter control and 150 quid a for custom l bracket seems crazy
This is a pretty good solution, Peter! I was missing the L Bracket solution from your earlier presentations. Now I think, I got a workable model. Thank you!
Another nice video Peter. I've a question: what exactly is the purpose of this "precise" mount ? just stability ? I ask this because I wonder if the zwo miniscope needs to be "co-axial" with the lens/telescope... according to other video on guiding, it is not supposed to be; asi camera can track any other star in the sky (I have never tried yet, so I am study as much as possible before wasting a cold night in the field) ... Am I correct ? (and also for polar align with sharpcap I suppose, which does a differential matching)
Well now my issue is, since I put the L-bracket on, I no longer have a way to mount my camera onto my mount as the L-bracket replaced a quick release plate I had on there to begin with, vs. a lens mount like you're showing here....
I'm just getting started on this (and watching the money flow like a river.) Which batteries, brackets, clamps, and cables work best when setting this up with a Nikon D750? I'm a total noob on the cables, and they all seem both custom and not provided by anyone.
Believe it or not I can't remove the screw from the miniscope I've just received. It won't get out. I've even tried using an electric screwdriver... but it won't turn (yes, I did use the correct direction). So I used the screw to fix everything together... worked.
This is going to sound basic as all hell... but can you do a video on what *is* a guidescope, what you use one for, and how to use one effectively with a tracker?
Nice one Peter, one thing that gets me is, why all these companies make products in BLACK ONLY, pain fiddling in the dark with BLACK KIT, why not GLOW IN THE DARK, its beyond silly
Awesome video, as usual. However, I own a SpaceCat, like the one you show at 0:23. The bracket you show there, what is it called and where do I buy it?
Last time I I tried that it wouldn't balance with all the weight from the guide scope on one side... I'm thinking to try to use a cage and just put it on top
Hey Peter, I love your work buddy well done. this isn't a guide scope question and I'm not sure if this has been covered anywhere else but do you have any information/specs/recommendations in relating to adding a 90° eyepiece for the Sky-Watcher STAR ADVENTURER for polar alignment. I think it would help accuracy and for stability lower the tripod to the ground. It would also be useful for people that have trouble kneeling/bending for too long. Thx again, I love your work. Cheers
Let me start by saying I am a newbie and I don’t know anything. If you are adding a tracking scope like this then you must be using a computer or asiair for tracking. Can’t same computer or asiair be used for polar alignment instead of the built in polar scope? No need to kneel on ground.
Hey Peter, I was wondering if the dovetail of your guidescope would have fit in the dovetail of the arcaswiss? I am looking to mount that arcaswiss bracket to on of my telescope rings for a standard finder scope dovetail but wasn’t sure if the dovetail size of the bracket would work with it. Thanks!
Mark, the focus will be touchy insofar as vibrations blurring your image, so just loosen the locking collar of the scope and get a crude focus established such that in a preview of the camera video, you can see the stars. Then, make minute adjustments and remove your hands from the scope each time to let vibrations dampen, check the image on screen for improved focus, and repeat the adjustments until the stars look pretty cleanly focused. That done, secure the locking ring again and you shouldn't need to refocus any more.
There shouldn't be. This all assumes the camera is going to be on some kind of a mount. If that mount is pan and tilt, you can just lock that axis. If it's a ballhead, just dial in a tiny additional amount of drag (a ballhead, when setup properly, lets you grab the camera and point it where you want, and it'll stay). I use an ArcaSwiss P0 and I don't bother locking down for test shots (high ISO, shorter shutter) but do so for 15 second shots. Not sure that's necessary, though. If you're having any problem with 'droop', whether you have a pointer attached or not, go rent a P0 - you'll probably end up buying it.
Hi Peter, You might remember that in August 2019 I emailed you with the details of this (my) setup. I suggested that you give it a go. Maybe as a matter of courtesy, you should give some credit. or at least acknowledge that it was based on someone else's setup.
Great solution! Much better than trying to attach it to the shoe mount on the camera.
For what it's worth, there's no need to fret about getting the guidescope perfectly aligned with the imaging scope / lens in order to get good guiding. What matters is that the guidescope doesn't move at all relative to the mount over time. The weak link in this setup would be the single screw connecting the plate to the scope, since it might permit rotation of the guidescope over time. Even if you're using the guidescope camera for polar alignment (SharpCap and I think the ASIAir does the same basic routine), as long as the guidescope is in the right ballpark the calculations that determine the axis of rotation will still work out correctly. What matters most is that the guidescope is rock solid over the imaging session.
I'm a little confused about you atatement. In my understanding, the polar alignment won't be accurate only if the axis of the guidescope parallels with it of the camera lens. Would you mind telling me why the solid connectio of the guidescope and the camera matters most?
Sure, first let's talk about polar alignment. It depends on how you are doing a polar alignment. If you're using a traditional polar scope inside the mount, then the polar scope should be aligned with the axis of rotation of the mount. Then you look through it, align polaris etc... If that's how you're doing a polar alignment, the polar scope alignment matters a whole lot (with the mount, not the imaging scope), but you'll note that it's difficult to be accurate because on things like the iOptron Skyguider Pro, the polar scope can freely rotate inside the mount, so there is inherent inaccuracy because you have to 'eyeball' getting the reticle straight up and down, which is impossible on the scale of arcseconds.
Because of that, a lot of people have moved away from sighting polaris down a polar scope and use electronic polar alignment. One popular way this is done is by using the guidescope (and guide camera) and a platesolving routine like in _SharpCap Pro_ and I think the _ZWO ASIair_ uses the same concept. The way this works is that the guidescope needs to be pointed in the general vicinity of the northern celestial pole but accuracy isn't all that important because of the rest of the alignment routine. The first thing it does it platesolve the image in the guidescope, which orients the software to where the guidescope is pointed in the sky. Then it will ask you to rotate your mount's RA axis through a minimum of 90 degrees and it will plate solve again. After it platesolve's the second image, the software can calculate two important things; exactly where north or south celestial pole _should_ be based on the images it just solved, and the exact axis of rotation of your mount.. Because it knows those two things, it also knows the offset between your _mount_ and the pole. Polar alignment is the process of making that offset as close to 0 as possible. Then it has you make adjustments to minimize that offset by adjusting the alt/az knobs on the mount to minimize the error. It will plate solve again and tell you how well you've done. You'll notice that at no time does the guidescope actually need to be pointed directly at the pole, or even in line with your mount, the math will figure out the offset regardless and at no point does the imaging scope or imaging camera play into this process at all.
As far as actually guiding while imaging, PHD2, or whatever guiding software you're using doesn't care what you're actually taking images of. All it cares about is that it can see a guide star and keep it in the exact same spot on the screen by feeding error corrections to the mount over time. Guiding is a process that occurs between the guidescope, software, and the mount. The imaging scope and imaging camera are irrelevant. So in order for guiding to be accurate, the guidescope and the mount must be as rigidly coupled as possible over the duration of the imaging session so that the only errors the guidescope sees are the result of the mount's inaccuracies, not the results of things like a loose screw or vibrations or being bumped etc... If the guidescope is slipping over time, it will feed bad error corrections to the mount and make it move more or less than it actually needed to.
@@KnyghtErrant Thanks for your detailed explanation. At first I was considering this process with the default mind of using the sighting polar scope and concluded that the two axes of polar scope and image scope must parallel with each other. Now I realize with the help of self-correction software, the guidescop can cacalculate the offset between the guidescope and the image scope as well as where the real pole should be by comparing multiple images captured in the general northern celestial pole area. Then it will tell you how to fine the knobs on the star tracker to minimize the inaccuracy without adjust the guidescope to fix it's axis. This is truely a talented idea!
@@KnyghtErrant Can you educate me on why it doesn't matter if the scope is on your camera vs the tracker? Does the software know after polar alignment any portion of the sky? Once you rotate your camera and polar scope to the south, how does it continue to guide? TIA.
@@michaelwmcdonald Polar alignment and guiding are two independent things, so once you've polar aligned your mount (and you may be using your guidescope to accomplish this), the axis of the mount body remains fixed with respect to the celestial pole for the rest of the imaging session and never needs to be adjusted again. You are now free to move your RA and Dec axes to point your guidescope and imaging scope towards your target. The guidescope is now functioning as a guidescope, not a polar alignment tool, so it will guide like normal off of a star in the vicinity of your target.
Hi, I bought a universal L bracket for my D850 but I mount it on the other side where the slots for the memory cards are. This way I always have access to all ports on the other side. And this also has the advantage to give more clearance between the guide scope and my 200-500mm lens so that the lens hood does not interfere with the guide scope when at 500mm. For the same reason this is why I attached the plate to the dovetail, give more clearance.
I've got a D750 (about the same size) and like how you did it. Can you provide a link to get the bracket? (That's the same monster lens I want to use for planets.)
I agree with Ianeck Wange, that it is simpler to mount the L-bracket to the right side of the camera. My setup is in progress, waiting on the Zwo guide camera Peter recommended. I did not learn of the existence of L-brackets with openings for cables until this video. I worked to make the guide scope not rotate in its mount. I carved a chunk of wood (holes, etc) to connect the guide scope (same as Peter shows) to my L-bracket with a single piece of wood and a sliver of aluminum. I have the advantage of owning a mortising drill/tool that let me fit the scope 'stem', without the dovetail, into my wood. I've struggled with it, so won't argue that there aren't any lessons to learn.
I did this a few days ago, from memory. It added an awkward center of gravity. It's currently running. I refreshed my memory by watching the video again. Smart removing the SYNTA style dovetail. I'm using the Tamron 150-600 as well. When I try to calibration the guiding in asiair, it is all over the place. It just stopped guiding, and continued tracking with the guider inactive. I'll reconfigure the mount sans SYNTA plate. Thanks.
Thank you for saving me so much money and giving a clear explanation. Removing the dovetail was key to my figuring out the setup.
A few things Peter, 1. many company's make L brackets that the L part is adjustable in/out so then you can just slide the L part in or out without moving the Arca Swiss clamp up or down. Also since the weight of the guide scope is not very heavy, the thinest Arca Swiss clamp may be the best choice and it will clamp as good as that large clamp and more room to add or remove cables around the L part. As well as if others like Kirk or RRS or Small Rig has low cost L brackets, but there are universal L brackets on Amazon, not a perfect fit as it's not custom but will work fo that guide scope and light guide camera..
Thank you. I just wasn't seein' how to get this done.
Dude!!!!!!! this is awsome... i had already bought all the parts and just couldnt figure out how to attach the damn mini scope to the clamp LOL... but thanks to this I got it... thanks a lot!!
I used a cage rather than an L bracket. That lets you use this same procedure to add the guide camera to the top of the cage in line with the lens, or - what I do - add the guide camera on one side and my ASIair on the other, roughly balancing.
Hi, thank you for this great video. What attachment do I need to connect the bottom of my L bracket on the camera to the top of the ZWO AM5n ?
One suggestion - just did this exact same thing with the same scope and same clamp. The little 2mm pins that help keep the scope square on the dovetail bracket will fit nicely into the detents on the bottom of the arca swiss clamp too - helps keep the scope from rotating.
Also, I did end up losing one of the pins that came with mine, but I was able to make a new one with an old bike spoke (in case anyone else loses theirs too).
Thank you extremely helpful as always. Could you please please do a similar video on how to focus the guide scope. I am new at this and I can’t find a single set of instructions about that. Your calm precise and step by step approach would really help
just pull/push your camera in and out the guidescope until your footage is focused.
Hook up the scope to your laptop in daylight and focus on infinity by sliding the camera head in/out of the scope tube. I mark this position with a thin slice of masking tape so that each time I reassemble, I quickly put the two parts together at exactly the correct distance for infinity focus. Set the exposure & gain to auto in software which will help get an image you can see to enable correct focus. Should only take a few mins.
Hooray, thanks for this, perfect timing for me! another very helpful video.
Great video, I'm new to this and knowing the correct terminology of whats required is half the battle
You can also attach both, your DSLR and the guide scope to a sibgle bottlm plate, side by side, you will ten have all ports accessible, but this will make it a bit heavier than the Lbrackt
Or mount the L up the right hand side?
Incredibly helpful- saved me loads of time. Thank you.
Thanks so much for the wonderful tutorials. One quick question , if the guide scope is pointed in the same direction of the lens on the camera toward the Milky Way, it is almost 180 degreese from Polaris. I would think we need it to point to the North Star along with the guide scope to get the correct polar allignment. thanks
Peter, this is a most t useful and practical video. The one detail left out here (and in the ZWO 30mm f/4 guide scope manual) is the size of the screw necessary to bolt the scope mast to the new small plate. The 38mm plate I purchased is drilled out, but did not come with any screw. The screw used by ZWO to bolt the rail to the scope mast is too short. I can find no reference to it on the web anywhere I have looked. Would you know what metric bolt diameter to use (e.g. M6 or M8, etc.)? I, and I am sure others, would appreciate knowing this critical bit of information to implement your solution. Thanks in advance!
Did you figure this out? I need to know as well. 😅
It looks like most arca-swiss clamps use a 3/8" thread by default, with the adapter removed at 3:52 being a 3/8" to 1/4". What I'm not sure about are the other aspects of its size (specifically the head, so that it fits flush with the surface of the plate) and length, so that it can reach through the plate into the foot of the guidescope but not so long that it pushes past it. Also, nobody sells screws individually, so you end up having to buying a pack of 20 or 30 just to use 1.
Very annoying that some (many) clamps don't provide a center screw. The author really should've mentioned that instead of assuming all clamps provided one.
For my DSLR I use a Smallrig cage. I found that i have more options to attach the guide scope and accessories than just a L bracket. unfortunatly there is no Rig for all the camera on the market.
this looks like a very viable option.. seems that at some point you are going to need access to the usb and shutter control and 150 quid a for custom l bracket seems crazy
Brilliant! Just what I was looking for, Thanks!
This is a pretty good solution, Peter! I was missing the L Bracket solution from your earlier presentations. Now I think, I got a workable model. Thank you!
Hi! great video! How do you bvalance this? It's heavier on one side so it's hard to balance. Thanks
I agree! If you figured out how to do so could you pass that info. on? Thanks!
great video, although selling the husky hex driver was a bit over board
Could the L bracket simply be mounted to the right or opposite side as to not block the ports?
Another nice video Peter. I've a question: what exactly is the purpose of this "precise" mount ? just stability ? I ask this because I wonder if the zwo miniscope needs to be "co-axial" with the lens/telescope... according to other video on guiding, it is not supposed to be; asi camera can track any other star in the sky (I have never tried yet, so I am study as much as possible before wasting a cold night in the field) ... Am I correct ? (and also for polar align with sharpcap I suppose, which does a differential matching)
Well now my issue is, since I put the L-bracket on, I no longer have a way to mount my camera onto my mount as the L-bracket replaced a quick release plate I had on there to begin with, vs. a lens mount like you're showing here....
I'm just getting started on this (and watching the money flow like a river.) Which batteries, brackets, clamps, and cables work best when setting this up with a Nikon D750? I'm a total noob on the cables, and they all seem both custom and not provided by anyone.
Believe it or not I can't remove the screw from the miniscope I've just received. It won't get out. I've even tried using an electric screwdriver... but it won't turn (yes, I did use the correct direction).
So I used the screw to fix everything together... worked.
This is going to sound basic as all hell... but can you do a video on what *is* a guidescope, what you use one for, and how to use one effectively with a tracker?
Nice one Peter, one thing that gets me is, why all these companies make products in BLACK ONLY, pain fiddling in the dark with BLACK KIT, why not GLOW IN THE DARK, its beyond silly
Awesome video, as usual. However, I own a SpaceCat, like the one you show at 0:23. The bracket you show there, what is it called and where do I buy it?
I couldn't access my ports my L bracket in situ but the Kirk is £160. I found a D850 dedicated bracket for £40
Last time I I tried that it wouldn't balance with all the weight from the guide scope on one side... I'm thinking to try to use a cage and just put it on top
Isn't it unbalanced? How to deal than with balancing the camera with the counterweight? Perhaps using it on an ioptron skyguider pro
Hey Peter, I love your work buddy well done. this isn't a guide scope question and I'm not sure if this has been covered anywhere else but do you have any information/specs/recommendations in relating to adding a 90° eyepiece for the Sky-Watcher STAR ADVENTURER for polar alignment. I think it would help accuracy and for stability lower the tripod to the ground. It would also be useful for people that have trouble kneeling/bending for too long. Thx again, I love your work. Cheers
Let me start by saying I am a newbie and I don’t know anything. If you are adding a tracking scope like this then you must be using a computer or asiair for tracking. Can’t same computer or asiair be used for polar alignment instead of the built in polar scope? No need to kneel on ground.
Hey Peter, I was wondering if the dovetail of your guidescope would have fit in the dovetail of the arcaswiss? I am looking to mount that arcaswiss bracket to on of my telescope rings for a standard finder scope dovetail but wasn’t sure if the dovetail size of the bracket would work with it. Thanks!
Mount the guide scope on the bottom of the dovetail bar, so it's under your lens.
Could you explain this a little more? The dovetail bar of what - are you referring to the Tripod Collar of a lens?
Great sollution, thanks.
What if you have very thick lens with a hood?
Nice one 👌🔭
I 3D printed my own hotshoe mount for my Orion 50mm, trying to figure out how to post to thingiverse for anyone to use.
Did you manage to post the files to thingiverse?
At 4:29 pay attention to the 2 pins that are in the base of the guide scope. Be careful not to let them fall out and get lost, like I did!! :(
THANK YOU!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! For this video
brilliant!
I just want a hot shoe vixen adapter
Hey thanks a lot! super useful
Biggest problem ive had with the ZWO 30mm f/4 with the mini guide cam is getting the thing in focus. Any tips?
Mark, the focus will be touchy insofar as vibrations blurring your image, so just loosen the locking collar of the scope and get a crude focus established such that in a preview of the camera video, you can see the stars. Then, make minute adjustments and remove your hands from the scope each time to let vibrations dampen, check the image on screen for improved focus, and repeat the adjustments until the stars look pretty cleanly focused. That done, secure the locking ring again and you shouldn't need to refocus any more.
Thanks
Gmana caraendapatkannya
I see no one has talked about how to focus this guide camera
I am wondering if there is an issue with balancing? The guidescope shifts the center of gravity. Is that an issue or can you account for that?
To balance properly on Dec, i added a longer arca swiss to the L bracket of the Star adventurer so i can move it around and get it perfect
There shouldn't be. This all assumes the camera is going to be on some kind of a mount. If that mount is pan and tilt, you can just lock that axis. If it's a ballhead, just dial in a tiny additional amount of drag (a ballhead, when setup properly, lets you grab the camera and point it where you want, and it'll stay). I use an ArcaSwiss P0 and I don't bother locking down for test shots (high ISO, shorter shutter) but do so for 15 second shots. Not sure that's necessary, though.
If you're having any problem with 'droop', whether you have a pointer attached or not, go rent a P0 - you'll probably end up buying it.
Or just buy a hot shoe adapter from Geoptik, I've never had problems with that solution.
Yes, that's also a solution. But some of us use the hot shoe for a red dot finder.
Hi Peter, You might remember that in August 2019 I emailed you with the details of this (my) setup. I suggested that you give it a go. Maybe as a matter of courtesy, you should give some credit. or at least acknowledge that it was based on someone else's setup.
mm = millimeter ... Why are we calling just mm ??
I have attached my SW EvoGuide 50ED on my D750 on the hotshoe mount, using this thing:
www.geoptik.com/index.php?route=product/product&product_id=750