What is RC Cogging | Motor Advice
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 18 ก.พ. 2020
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Just be aware what size pinion you run with stock motor and ESC. 17 is pushing it IMO.
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I have just learned this lesson the hard way i went for big Kv's and got cogging took the diff apart nothing wrong watched this video and now realise i bought the wrong motor.
I learned that the hard way as well
Welcome to the arrma forum 👍 nice to have you there. definitely great videos, nicely explained 👏 and i also go slow with the steps with my kraton v4 love this beast! 😆
"It's just bad ass..." 🤣 Great video. just what i needed really. Thanks!
Awesome video Mr. East) you are my favorite kraton 6s channel to go to just to learn more about my car. Also the Amazon wish list is great! I used it today to buy some stuff) thank you thank you!
I really appreciate that comment. Means a lot to me. Yeah the Amazon wish list exploit, I’m sort of grandfathered into it. If I try to make a new list, Amazon blocks it. Lol
I own a Senton, and you helped me so much, earned yourself a sub
Awesome!! Thx brother
Great video and explanation because I'm having the same problem. Just subbed and going to go through your content to learn more. Thanks! Keep up the great vids
Nice job! Good to have you at Arrma Forum 👍💪 Subbed for more good stuff.
crimsonfancy, thx... love that forum!
Keep the videos coming.👍🏽 Arrma 4Life.
I’m very surprised that you don’t have more subscribers? I’m definitely going to mention your page on the Arrma Forum. Your videos are incredibly helpful. Thank you.
You and me both. Thx for the complement 😎👊😝
Much respect 🙏on going to the o.g's for advice I do the same I love your content
THANK YOU!!! I HAVE THAT SAME PROBLEM WITH MY INFRACTION
Great Videos! I myself have just gotten into the hobby and just recently purchased the Kraton 6s V4. After months of deciding which RC to go with I narrowed it down between the Traxxas Maxx and the Kraton 6s. I already owned 2 1/16 scale traxxas RCs so was leaning heavy towards the Maxx buy when comparing price and specs the Kraton just had more BANG!! For the Buck I couldn't be happier with my decision and look forward to watching more of your videos
Subscribed 😜 Keep doing what you Love ♥️ Stay Safe✌️
Thanks for commenting. So what did you end up purchasing, and how have you liked it. God Bless
@@EastTactics I bought an Arrma Kraton 6s V4 😍 So far so good I bought it used off a RC dealer it already had most of the essential upgrades done to it and also a better remote . I'm going to be doing more upgrades on it myself just waiting for parts to arrive. Hope your well thanks and stay safe!
Keep up the good work
Nice info. Yeah I started destroying my 6s Arrma rigs after going with bigger pinions. Not worth the Hassle. I do have a 35t pinion on my Outcast 8s, but that is a different story since I put the XLX2 and 1100kv motor in that monster. I'm impressed as how the O8S has been able to take that power. Honestly the 6s line doesn't seem to take the extra power well, including the diffs. I sold all of my 6s Arrmas.
Good explanation thankyou! All my rear diff problems vanished once I got the arrma branded aluminium diff cases and swapped out the fluid from 20k to 30k. I now run 30/200/50. The arrma case is a really nice piece and uses 2 shims behind each planetary gear. I'm on a 15 tooth with punch at 7. Before I put the new case in I was destroying those pins and gears almost every run. I've had a good 30+ runs now with no issues! I'd recommend them!! Thanks for the vid!
Joe Milbank
Arrma branded metal diff cases?? I have only see HR ones??
Link please
@@3SonsRC I'm in the uk so not sure a link will be any good for you... They're awesome as you can open them from both sides it's part no. ARA220050, rekon Google will sort you out!...
To follow... I find hot racing to be very hit and miss... I've bought a few parts by them now for various models (I have to pay import tax too) and I have come to realise they're just not on point.... Some of their parts are great no doubt... However lots are not fit for purpose... When you get a bad piece and email them you will not get a reply... They do not care... Therefore I will no longer support them. Sorry to those with a good experience.
@@joemilbank5204 thanks fur that... Read some reviews fir the Arrma one but on Amazon says it .8mm longer and causes issues yet HR one has fantastic reviews 🤔
you earned a new sub. keep up the great work 👍
Thanks! That means a lot… Truly
Great breakdown of KV in relation to tooth pinion and upgrading your power. I had not understood that either. Lower KV engine gets more torque and less top end but the higher tooth pinion will get that high end back for you.... Makes sence 👍🎯😊
Bro, super helpfull
I just fryed me esc because of cogging.... thank you, i was way confused
That a bummer, Hope you get her back up and running soon
Yup just had it happened to me with my talion except it did it when adding bigger tires idk why but when I had stock tires it would haul ass on the 20t pinion and punch setting nine might have to go back to stock tires
Great vid and explain 👍
Thanks Philip, hope it was helpful
I put a sensorless 3900 kv motor and 120 amp esc in my Granite Mega with a 15 tooth pinion. It comes stock with a 14 tooth. I was receiving cogging with the 15 tooth pinion. I'm going to drop it back down to the 14 tooth but it doesn't seem like that will make that big of a difference. I'm also going to check to see if my gear mesh is too tight. I'm also wondering if jumping up to a 3s battery would help. I am currently running a 2s 50c 5200 lipo in it.
Thank you so much for the Video my headache for my Kraton its gone.
Is it good to not use a spur or pinion gear or gear box thats what I'm not using i made a video im not sure what could happen to my brushed motor when testing the speed out side first time doing that
That's what I'm getting right now on my redcat SC. I did an upgrade to brushless and running it with the stock pinion gear. I only ran it for two days I'm like I need to stop. So I need to lower my teeth. I'm running a 3900kv motor what should I use???? I use a Jstock ESC by hobbywing 1060A.
I run a 20 and a 23t pinion on my stretched Kraton 6S. No to little cogging. Can do back flips from a dead stop. Cant run a Punch of 9 or aggressive timings. Just use a lower timing and a punch of no more than 4. Problem solved and the Motor IS designed for it as is the ESC. The 23 pinion is a stock upgrade for the Kraton BTW. And the pin is Meant to break, to save the Gears. its a fail-safe, dont remove it.
What motor and ESC are you running?
Thanks for your time I really appreciate your explanation for everything especially the mature and the ESC I am wondering how to calibrate the adjustment for the speed would you mind to explain it in the easiest way
I'd be happy to help, in fact the best way to show you how to calibrate everything for your RC, assuming you have the Kraton, or similar setup, would be to simply have you watch this video. It shows you how to set your throttle endpoints, as well as setting up your punch setting. Even your brake settings if you want to tweak that. Check it out. if you have further questions, feel free to ask.
th-cam.com/video/0TaUS5HEGRw/w-d-xo.html
Tengo ese mismo problema mi motor es de 3300kv y el pinion 21T 😢
Yo le cambie a mi senton mega el spur a 57 y un pinion de 21 y casi no arranca 😅
good with low music we can hear you better. btw engines have combustion chamber-s. engines require much more maintenance as they have more moving parts than an electric motor they are also less balanced (more vibration) noisy dirty and smelly. motors are almost maintenance free. what do you prefer engines or motors. good luck brother lots of helpful info in these videos hope you enjoying making them.
Thanks bro I really appreciate that. I myself am definitely not a engine enthusiast. Definitely more intrigued by the motor concept
Bil Tong, I just now made the connection that I had the word “Engine” in my tittle. Changed it to motor. Also noticed I said the word engine a few times in the video. Luckily only once or twice. Thanks for your help with regard to improving the quality of my content. I know you noticed my music was lower in this vid,
Did you notice how after you mentioned you couldn’t hear me on that last vid I reuploaded it as just music. Thx again.
I have the kraton 8S with the stock spektrum motor (1250kv) with a 21 tooth..
Do you think it's overgeared?
Are you cogging. If so .... yes
You should be able to gun it off the line, and experience no hiccups.
If you are ...try dropping your pinion size two or 3 teeth.
Let me know what you find. 👍
Did you get rid of the cogging after switching out the pinion? I’m just wondering if a motor does cog will it eventually wear out or damage it,,,,,,,I’m experiencing cogging on my losi dB pro.....all my armmas don’t do it all, this is my first cogging issue,,,some say it does no harm,,,I’m just unsure of that.... great stuff,,I watch everything you put out,,,,you’ve helped me quite a bit,,,,keep up the good work,,we’re all watching......
Thanks!! Yes, the cogging went away Immediately after dropping from a 20 tooth pinion to a 16 tooth pinion. I also stop snapping pins and planetary gears.
i was Using a 15t pinion for my Kraton 6s and its cogging at top speed.After i watch this video i switch back my pinion to 12t and the cogging its gone.why stupid Arrma give extra pinion to break the truck give headache to customers.Stupid marketing
My kraton 6s started cogging too on 9 punch. If I continually run it on 9 (and cog) will it hurt the motor/esc?
From what I understand cogging doesn’t necessarily hurt your motor or ESC. It’s just annoying. It does seem however with the timing being off continuously and just punching through it if it were to damage or wear on anything in particular it would be the motor itself. In my experience the most impactful way to stop cogging is to drop in pinion size. What size pinion are you running on your motor?
My senton 3s cogs now, i went to a 26t pinion and it started after a few speed runs. I went back to the optional 20t that came with it and it still cogs, what’s wrong 🤷🏾♂️
One thing to consider is that it may not be cogging. You mentioned you were running on the 20T pinion gear For sometime without cogging? Correct? The increase to the 26 to May of just stripped a few of your gears from the rigorous takeoffs.
You might have some warn teeth, Likely on the rear outdrive gear, or the crown gear On the rear differential. Or both. It doesn’t take much wear to create a cogging like noise, especially on takeoff. Get in there and do a really close inspection on both of those gears, sometimes it’s difficult to see the wear on that outdrive gear because it’s deep in there and covered in grease etc. so it’s best usually to remove it.
Let me know if that’s the case, be sure when you’re putting it back together you might consider doing some shimming to marry those two gears a little bit closer together. To prevent it from happening again. Of course assuming that’s the issue. 😎👊
Hey brother another great vid. I had a question. So what I'm understanding from you video, is is the kv is lower you can achieve more torque?? what is your opinion on running the Cast Creations mamba x combo with esc 2200kv motor in the Kraton v5??
I don’t think that’s a bad combination at all. It is definitely a step in the right direction. Meaning… stock you’re looking at 2500 KV right. Which is suited for the stock ESC.
My favorite combo would be 1730KV with a Max6 or a spectrum firma 160 8s ESC.
Regarding your comment about torque, your spot on. Usually when people drop to lower KV, like I’ve seen some Go as low as 1600 KV, however they really increase the size of their pinion up to the 23, 24 range to recoup the speed. But you must have a pretty upgraded ESC to accommodate for that torque.
@@EastTactics oh ok, I used to think the higher the kv the more power, but Yea Its all how you tune it, spur and pinion wise. Thanks for advice. I will probably stick with stock for a while, before I upgrade. It's fun to upgrade and mod these rc cars. ✌🏽
🤜🤛
He said engine😅 good info ty
Hi I’ve got a castle mamba on my kraton it’s been sat for a while but just started cogging could it be my motor has packed in or can I save it someone plz reply????
Can you re phrase the question. I'm not sure what you mean by "your motor has packed in". Typically reducing the size of your pinion and adjusting your punch setting down a bit will help to get rid of cogging.
Also... consider.. that you might not be cogging.. you my have shaved or broken some teeth on either your diff crown gears (typically rear) or the outdrive gear (also typically rear). Check into that. let me know your results.
Hi, where did you buy the socks cover?
th-cam.com/video/pellmVTJFis/w-d-xo.html
i see your chassis is bare metal so you might not be aware but i have a black chassis so this is just something i have noticed. if your jumping more than a few feet off the ground your motor will make contact with the chassis, at least the back of it. thats without any fans or even heat sink. i would highly recommend supporting the bottom of the motor. the highest i have jumped my car is about 7 or 8 feet and my motor has already left a mark on the chassis.
Thanks for the tip, this is actually one of my older videos. But my current set up does actually include a support for my motor. Just as you recommend. So that is definitely a great tip
@@EastTactics i couldnt believe my motor was slapping the chassis from the few times i went above 5 feet through only 3 battery packs. theres definitely some design flaws with this car but after 4 or 5 battery packs i havent broken a damn thing unless you count cracking the stock shitty bumper, making a small tear in the body and putting a tiny little slice in one of the tires from slamming into a tree stump going sideways. 2 of which i solved with super glue that are holding up great so far. seems like its fast and reliable, now if only i could get it to turn worth a damn at any speed above 5mph.
idk why this turned into a mini review of the kraton 6s but it did. guess i should go join a forum so i can tell everyone about my opinions.
I hear ya.
Achieve 100% steering for your ARRMA Vehicle. Complete breakdown!
th-cam.com/video/UF66n0-u3Gw/w-d-xo.html
Gracias por hacer el video subtitulado
Thank you!!
did it occur to you to show the car actually cogging?
I did in a follow up vid :)
i have some questions about the v4 kraton. do u have a Facebook page or email i can ask you questions on other then you tube. thanks man
randyeast80@gmail.com
Let me know (here) once you sent it. In case I miss the email alert.
I think I’m getting this too, only thing is I’m running all stock??? Also why do Arrma supply a bigger Pinion if you can’t use it? I’ve seen loads of people use the bigger one with no issues?
The bigger pinion is only 15t (at least on the Kraton) cogging usually only starts (on stock components) after 17t.
Technically all rigs are different tho. Your issue might not be cogging. Check the input gear on the rear diff. Or the spur gear teeth on the rear diff. That might actually be your issue making the noise on take off.
Regarding the output gear, If you can’t get a really good look at it with the rear differential removed, you may have to pull it out. Heat the outdrive cup with a butane lighter to do so. Let me know what ya find.
Also… Upon reassembly (if this is the issue) to prevent it again, make sure you’ve properly shimmed outside the diff (left side)👊👍😎
East Tactics ok cool thanks for the info
The bigger pinion that Arrma provides is only 15T.So yeah you should definitely not have any problems running that with your stock set up. You only really start running into a need for adding a cooling system when you get above 16 or 17t. And anything past that you start really needing just to upgrade your motor and ESC to handle the gearing better.
If you’re running stock components there’s a good chance that you’re actually not cogging. You might actually have worn teeth on your rear outer drive, or maybe your differential gears themselves might be worn. That actually creates a very similar noise.
@@EastTactics ok thanks for the info 👍🏻
You shouldn’t have issues with stock or the high speed gear. Watch this video... you may have stripped a gear, which can sound a lot like cogging.
th-cam.com/video/y_oulXojfgQ/w-d-xo.html
I dont have an arrma kit, but i am also expiriencing this cogging issue on my traxxas e-revo 2.0.. In my case, i am still expiriencing cogging even when my motor is pulled out of my kit. I think my motor itself is the culprit. Btw my kit stock.
Consider.. that you might not be cogging.. you my have shaved or broken some teeth on either your diff crown gears (typically rear) or the outdrive gears (also typically rear). Check into that. let me know your results. Could also be a bearing in your motor going out.
Rookie here... I just wanna ask if adjusting the punch setting eliminates clicking noise? I only hear it at a slow roll but once I gun it, it’s normal. I have a senton 3s (All stock) and just learned that a punch setting exist🤦♂️ I have no loss of power or grip, just concerned if I’m damaging or have damaged anything not adjusting the punch setting? Great channel here! I learn more and more because of you bro and I really appreciate the time you put into these vids!🤜🤛 You’re basically the Arrma version of Mr. Miyagi!
Man! That is a great complement! Thank you!
OK so first thing I wanna point out is that the clicking noise that you hear when let’s say your vehicle is completely off, and you push the vehicle ... that resistance that you feel and that clicking noise that you hear is 100% normal. Basically what’s happening is you’re forcing the wheels to turn the motor while the motor is not being asked to spin. When you push it it forces the motor because the wheels are turning this sending action back through the drivetrain and into the motor to basically turn it and it creates a clicking noise.
So if the vehicle is completely off and you push it forward or backwards if the noise is the same as what you’re pointing out then your problem solved And there is no issue.
That said… If you’re referring to a different clicking noise typically people hear a clicking noise when they Gun it off of the line and they’re either cogging, or they’ve got a stripped gear somewhere and teeth are skipping. But again both happens when punching it (more commonly off of the line)
So when you say after you gun it, everything is normal it leads me to believe that you’re just hearing the standard clicking noise that you would get when your vehicle is rolling to a stop and you’re not giving the vehicle any power and so the drivetrain is basically force clicking the motor which is 100% normal.
Let me know if this answers your question. Thanks again for the compliment!
Oh and regarding your punch setting, there is no correlation between the punch setting and the clicking noise that I think you are hearing. However if you are experiencing cogging like the video explains then dropping your punch setting away from Maxximum can help.
I believe stock or punch settings come at four. A lot of people like to punch it up to nine. If you haven’t done anything as far as increasing your pinion size, or change the gearing ratio’s in your center differential etc. then I highly doubt you’re experiencing caulking and you’re more than welcome to adjust your punch setting up to nine. Basically what will happen is your vehicle will be a bit more punchy off the line and you’re likely able to do flips easier because you can more quickly send inertia to your tires which then intern is giving you more control in the air quicker. Keep in mind though that increasing your punch setting all the way up to nine if you’re not too careful you can be a little bit overzealous with your trigger finger and sometimes that’s just hard on your gears so just be careful. Don’t be that guy that constantly is punching your gas simply to see it
@@EastTactics Man sorry I’m just now getting back to you... I can confirm that you were 100% right no issues with cogging! Thank goodness! I have a new question for you and would like to hear your thoughts! ARRMA senton 3s keeps losing wheels... I’ve been reading and apparently it’s only on the 3s models. Had to buy a 2mm hex driver and loctite to help slow the wheel from falling off... I think the Kraton comes from factory with loctite? Idk but ARRMA should address these issues because after hearing other people, I’m definitely not the only one. Would love to see a vid on how you would deal with this issue! Thanks man, hope all is well for ya 🤜🤛
You might consider this upgrade.
th-cam.com/video/3HBMbIIsycU/w-d-xo.html
How long do they last ESC and motor
If properly taken car off, you could run an ESC and motor for as multitude of year. Naturally this depends on how frequent you get out and run it. I've had mine for 1.5 year and Im still running the same stock motor and ESC.
how do I know if my ESC is fried when I lift it up it moves but when I put it on the ground it doesn't it's like if the car is 2 heavy btw I have a 26t pinion arrma senton 3s and mine also cogged a lot please respond @East Tactics
So the second you put any pressure on the ESC it basically clicks out and stops working. Yeah that’s a sign of a fried ESC. How much does your vehicle way? Are you running the stock components?
@@EastTactics everything is stock except the pinion also after i put it on the ground it like doesn’t move at all like if it were to be off also have to turn it on and off like 20 times for it to move while holding it then I put it on the ground it stops and like turns off
Often times the stock components are not compatible with increasing the pinion too high. How many teeth came on the stock pinion?
@@EastTactics I believe 17t
Yeah I would say a jump all the way to 26t was at the very least the cause of your issue. Hard to say if your motor is the issue or if it’s your ESC. The first thing I would do is drop it back down to 17 T and see if everything goes back to normal. If not, I would look into picking up a upgraded combo that is more compatible with the ability to handle a 26 tooth pinion. Lower KV motors 1400 to 1700kv, are designed to handle the weight of a vehicle and all the torque. Which allows them to be compatible with high tooth pinion’s.
Upping your pinion, also means you need to increase cooling big time in your vehicle. You may have over heated and fried something.
Check out my playlist in DIY fans.
I have a Xinlehong 9125. I change it to brushless system. 2845 motor 3800kv with same 14t stock pinion, same size as the stock 390 brushed. My brushless motor cogs even i tried the pinion to stop even with my fingers, yes just my fingers. My battery lipo is in full charge. I dont know why it is cogging even the load is just my fingers tried to stop it. Maybe i will try 2600kv for this truck.
Edit. All gears in my truck is still stock and tires too.
My first thought ( and this is just a shot in the dark) but first eliminate this as the cause of your issue.
See vid
th-cam.com/video/y_oulXojfgQ/w-d-xo.html
Let me know your thoughts.
@@EastTactics thanks for that vid mate. My gears are still in good shape. I saw your example video of cogging, it is similar to mine. I put back my brushed system because i like the instant power from full stop. I'll try to upload a video and i'll link it later. Thanks mate
Anytime. Have you experimented with silicon earplugs in the center diff? I plan to try it out soon. Heard it adds a ton of power off the line. Well see. Thx for following me!
@@EastTactics sorry mate my truck do not have a center diff.
th-cam.com/video/RXa_Em4uK-s/w-d-xo.html
This is the video of my motor. Sorry for the very poor lighting. I used only flashlight, We have no electricity for now because of strong wind typhoon.
If i suddenly reverse i get a clicking sound but forward is ok motor is 3600kv paired with 19t pinion and 64t spur im new to the hobby
What vehicle are you running? And are those the stock components or are they upgrades?
@@EastTactics the motor and pinion are upgrades rest is stock im getting a 17t and 21t pinion soon just to try different stuff
The car is a hsp wolverine 1/10 scale
Are you also running the V4 Kraton? Or V5? Or something different.
Because regarding the Kraton, they come stock with a 50t spur gear.
If yours came stock with a 64t. What model Arrma are you running? 😎👍
When you get your 17T pinion, Toss that on and see if the issue goes away. You might be Cogging. Or if you put the 21 tooth pinion on and the issue gets worse Then it’s definitely cogging.
So I’m not very familiar with the 110 scale HSP wolverine. However I am a master at the 1/8 scale Arrma Kraton LOL.
What I can tell you is this mine came stock with a 13 tooth pinion with the optional 15 tooth high-speed pinion gear. with a 2050 KV motor. Which makes sense for the larger vehicle.
What I can tell you from experience is that when I decided to go with a 20t pinion gear it was a really bad idea, at least for the Kraton. Might be fine for you... not sure.
What started happening for me was I began breaking rear differential planetary gears and differential pins. I also started the cogging issue, which is why I created the video.
So be careful running that high of a pinion.
Now from what I learned if I wanted to take advantage of running a pinion gear above 20 T and I would have to upgrade both my motor and my ESC to a combo that’s compatible with that type of gearing. My research showed that I needed to actually pick up a motor between 1600 KV and 1900 KV, (So a drop of about 25%) And to run a motor like that it was recommended to get a better ESC. Those lower KV motors are capable of handling the increased torque pushing the 1/8 scale vehicle, but with higher gearing (more teeth) the KV had to go lower, from 2050kv to again... 1600 - 1900.
That all said, again I’m not very familiar with the wolverine or the relationship it has with the gears so things could be completely different especially since its a 1/10 scale truck.
Now let’s get onto the topic of considering the potential that your Reverse clicking issues might actually be coming from a stripped gear Somewhere, where the type of wear is only presenting itself in reverse. A lot of times the input gears on the differentials (at least for the Kraton ) are synonymous for not only stripping but being very elusive because they’re hidden under a bunch of Greece. So check all your gear teeth extremely closely.
Let me know what you find out brother!
Not used a 22 tooth pinion gear myself, but, punch doesn't do anything, seems you look at too much TH-cam instead of properly educating yourself, as so many youngsters these days that believe everything on TH-cam, ..look into changing the motor timing setting, then you won't need a fan to cool your motor down, then you can gear up from a 15 tooth to 16-17-19...and so on while monitoring the motor temps..i personally don't get the point of going above 17 tooth pinion, it's a basher, not a spede record machine...you can't go through corners at 100 miles per hour through grass or flying through the air anyways so who really cares if you do 60 or 65 mph...same as all the fancy "upgrades"as you think they are, they just shift the breaking point from cheap replacement parts to more expensive parts..i prefer to blow out a shock, instead of bending my chassis for example.. 17 tooth and punch 7 still gets my kraton faster down the track than yours...just saying...learn to drive first, enjoy it, don't spend a fortune on something you enjoy breaking...
Actually, you’re 100% correct, this video was actually created back in my beginning dive into the hobby. Definitely learned a lot since this. And I agree 100% …a 22t pinion was absolutely stupid with the stock motor.
I run a firma 160 8S ESC in my 6s Kraton now days. 1730kv motor
Blah blah blah God that was miserable to watch
Ya... I guess I did ramble WAY too much in that Vid. Thanks for your honesty, i've learned from it.
Too much yakking, get to the point.
Yeah I’ve gotten that comment before on this video. I try to minimize it nowadays.
Also I cringe every time I here myself say engine.
One of my older videos, lol
no offense bud, based on the fact that you didnt know what "cogging" was i dont think its wise to give so much advice as if you knows these suggestions for certian... dont take this the wrong way
None taken, at the time of the making of this video I was just learning about it. And I gave a pretty clear indication (as you noticed) that my understanding of it was basic.
However I do feel like I gave a good explanation, or an accurate one. Just because I didn’t know before, doesn’t mean I didn’t research it and come up with a simplified explanation here. I mean… Are you implying that I explained it wrong or was way off on a particular point? If so, what was off exactly. Again… I know it wasn’t a perfect explanation and a more scientific detail version I’m sure exists.
That said, this video, While I know I rambled way too much LOL. Did get some decent advice about understanding the relationship between your motor and your ESC. I cringe every single time I say engine LOL. But yeah… Certainly not my best video. And I’ve also learned a ton since then. Thanks for watching my material hopefully you find, My other videos more enlightening if you brush across them.