If I repair any power supply / voltage converter or any amplifier in which there was a short circuit, I always give a tungsten filament bulb in series when I first switch it on. The bulb must be of sufficient wattage. If the bulb glows after switching on the device, it means that there is still a short circuit in the circuit. If there is no short-circuit, the bulb will flare a little when switched on and will glow gently. This saved me a lot of transistors. Nothing "explodes" when turned on.
Thanks for that 👍Yes I've been meaning to build a dim bulb tester for a while, but it's one of those things I've never got round to doing. I may struggle to get some incandescent light bulbs these days but I'll have a look on eBay etc.
Just tore the same router apart and pretty much same problem so thanks for the video i was able to get mine working two days ago but its nice to see a video that would have pointed me in the right direction in the beginning and would have saved me time in the long run. Older i get the more i value my time.
The art or repairing electronics is the diagnosis part. Replacing the component doesn't require lots of knowledge and experience. So technically speaking, this is a perfect fix.
Most people probably would have stopped at the issue with the ic. Great to see some good old fashioned out of the box ingenuity. Glad the algorithm pointed me here! Definitely a fix and subscription earned!
Thanks Mark, if you liked this one I've done a lot better in some of my other videos. The FLIR thermal camera springs to mind, and the solar inverter where I repaired it, then needed to change a setting.. and the company wouldn't give me the password.. I had to take matters into my own hands 😂😂 There's been a few times where I've had to get creative too!
Short time lurker and long time tinkerer here. That's a fix for sure as it now works as intended (with a little additional bulk). Great diagnosis and repair!
Brilliant "work around" I'd say bro👍👍 With no way to get the chip replaced and programed, this was a solid solution and fix. Starlink certainly seems to not want these repaired by the way they're built, glued and melted together. Great job, well done getting it up and working... Thanks for the video and work. See ya next time.
I was surprised to see it both over engineered and having a crap spec Mediatek SoC at the same time. Could have been the same size & construction as a standard router and had a normal (replaceable) DC adapter without performing any differently. Talk about reinventing the wheel
Starlink are pretty good about just sending you a replacement router whenever you have a problem with it, presumably because they can't make money off of your subscription fees if you don't have a working router, but it's sure a refreshing thing to see an old broken one brought back to life! Great work!
Bravo for your skill and tenacity! From a dead router to managing to get into the box, getting past the fireworks and a chip that can not be sourced or programmed, to having a working router with external psu. On your mains voltage readings, the voltage and tolerance for an electricity supply is 230 volts -6%, +10%. This gives an allowed voltage range of 216.2 volts to 253.0 volts.
Thanks for that 👍Yes at times our voltage is 255v or more (especially when our solar panels kick in during the day) which is why I contacted the power grid. I show this on another video when I was fixing something else. I've even had the inverter error a few times with over voltage.
En realidad el chip se puede obtener, incluso yo compré en Aliexpress, cambie el chip y comenzó a trabajar pero no sé mantiene el voltaje constante debido a los parámetros que se deben programar
I think you could call that an excellent fix, Mick. How you manage to deduce the issue every time is beyond me. I wish I had your skills. Thanks for sharing.
@@TheXGamer969 its a fucking wifi router not an outdoor starlink antenna.....a very expensive one that they recommend you buy 3 of for full coverage ....what a heap of shit.
Yup, it's appalling - there's no excuse for this kind of waste. Manufacturers who do this will state that it's to make it watertight but that's merely an excuse, what they really want to do is make the device as difficult to repair as possible, therefore meaning that another unit needs to be purchased when the original fails. Too many corrupt and incompetent governments allow too many manufacturers to get away with this sort of garbage. There should be strict laws against making devices difficult or impossible to repair.
The nice thing about this equipment 'failure' is, the varistor/thermistor served its purpose perfectly. It failed so the rest of the circuit board would mostly be left unharmed.
You are VERY lucky to get it to boot up. I commend you on your tenacity. I would have stopped when I saw the MOV blown apart. Because a surge powerful enough to violently destroy a component like that surely would foretell serious damage further down the line. Good spare receiver in case your other one fails. Or look for a dish under the same circumstances.
I still might have another go at this one in the future as someone sent me the software to program the chip. I did email Starlink to see if they had the values, but no response unfortunately.
If the system is working, then it is a fix. That's the object of it all. The funny thing is, the company sunk tons of money in that power supply for no reason, when a cheap AliExpress power supply works just as good on it. You could attach the supply to the back of the unit and once set up, not even realize it has an external power supply on it, and it would look factory. Awesome repair again. I'm glad you were able to save it and use it.
That's a definite fix by using a replacement part, I see no problem with calling it a fix. Your PC analogy is spot on and could be applied to all manner of things. For example, if a car's engine blows up and is impossible to repair then a new engine will get the car running again, therefore that too is a fix. Going back to PCB fixes: caps, assorted components, ICs, etc often need to be replaced and there's no issues with calling them fixes. Now if you had replaced the whole Starlink router with a new router that of course wouldn't be a fix. 🙂
Thanks for that 👍Yes I usually try to repair things down to component level, so substituting a whole PSU isn't what I wanted to do, but I guess it is what it is 🙂
Nice job. Definitely a FIX! Like fixing a flat tire on your car by putting on the spare. No, you didn't fix the original problem, but you got the car back on the road in working condition. Same thing with your Starlink. Now it works and you have a spare!
Cheers Steve, I've been sent the programming software for the IC by someone who watched the video. I might have another go, although I still don't have the settings. I did email Starlink asking them for the settings for the IC and didn't get a reply....
Long time viewer here. Love your content. I think it’s interesting solving the puzzle. You found the issue but can’t source or find the components for totally fixing the issue. But there is no mystery left at least. It’s “fixed” as far as possible.
Ha nope it is not a fix! It is infact an upgrade as should the power supply go wrong again it is now more fixable than it was prior. Nice solution I really like your determination to get things at least to a working state and also your approach to working through the problems and if needed an out of the box way to make the most out of a bad situation. Really nice work this made for a great watch with a satisfying outcome. 👍
Use low melt solder for effortless desoldering. On things like this I usually connect black lead to ground & probe with the red lead looking for low resistances / shorts. Low voltage injection at points where a short appears, while looking through a thermal camera, quickly isolates the bad component. A dim bulb circuit, as mentioned by another user, eliminates blown components on power up.
Thanks👍, yes I've made a dim bulb tester since making this video, I had been meaning to make one for a while but it's something that I never got round to doing (until this). I've got some low melt solder, I normally use it for things like HDMI or USB connectors that take a lot of heat.
Good Day. I thought I would bring my experience with doing odd-ball repairs. When taking plastic tabs off and they need to be drilled, A cheap set of forstner bits does a wonderful job with them especially when space is tight. Thanks for posting this repair
Yes Re-pair it is, keep it up brother, main goal is not to make it look nice & asthetic , main goal is to be up and running, which you did! pat yourself!! This was a lightening strike failure mostly likely.. no problem, I too did the same kind of repair to an GPON OLT (Optical Line Terminal) Unit's Power Supply Ckt. in a telecom exchange nearby my home (owned by a govt. telecom company "BSNL" ) I too installed a power supply unit just as you have in this video.. and it was up & running.. & brought the internet connection back up of nearly 600 people in my area who were connected via Fiber optic modem (aka ONT) to that OLT Unit.. & guess what... it's still running and its been 3 yrs, So Yes it is repair work. Nice work btw..
Brilliant bush fix love the way you were thinking outside the box literally 😅. If you were stuck for one you would be happy to use it all day long . Saving the planet one Star Link at a time
Megabits per second, not megabytes, I think? Envy your tenacity and patience. Excellent videos, always look forward to finding out what’s next on the blue mat.
As soon as I got my hands on a Gigabit PoE injector and a pair of starlink to rj45 cables, I threw that junk to where it belongs. Now my starlink and WiFi router both work directly off a 48V battery. Aside from much better WiFi speeds, coverage and Ethernet connectivity, I've got ~25W base load reduction and the power inverter is finally able to switch off on zero load.
Nice 👍I don't actually use my Starlink router either (well only to power the dish) as I've got it set to bypass mode. I got the ethernet adapter as I didn't want to cut the cable, which then feeds into a GT-AC5300 Asus gaming router, which then feeds 2 other routers in various locations around our property and a couple of outdoor access points.
Good workaround. Assuming the 48V bit is still working, you could use a 20V to 12V DC to DC, something like a Recom R-78K12-2.0 (if you don't need isolation and you don't need the quantum PFC bit), for a more permanent fix. I did laugh at the sealed front, for an indoor unit. Hope Louis isn't watching, he would also be reaching for the Ginger.
Definitely consider it fixed. You could 3d print (or have someone else 3d print) a custom base to hold the power supply. Really enjoy watching the troubleshooting process.
It's actually a very good fix for the situation. That star-link was going in the trash. Otherwise, you saved it, try putting it back together as best as possible, and possibly donate it🙃
@24:04 - selfie time :) Many moons ago I was working on a rather large UPS that had failed and did similar, although the flash was bright enough to illuminate the workshop and get suitable reactions from my colleagues. Never lived that one down to this day.
I count it as a fix. Great work and thank you for sharing your thoroughness in finding the root cause. Too bad this Starlink router was evidently not designed for repairs...
Thanks 👍Yes not the most user serviceable device. I might have another go at this as someone sent me the software to program the IC. I emailed Starlink to see if they would sent me the settings.. no reply as yet....
I call it a fix! Clever. Our mains here are 124-127V, which is kinda high.Many of my old radios were built when it was 100-110V, so I either run a stepdown, or just don't use them long. Haven't cooked a power tranny yet!
Yes I think a few people have done that for RV conversions. I might have another go at this one in the future as someone sent me the programming software for the ICs.
Great video as always and definitely a fix in my book! My dad is a tinkerer who lives in the DL2 wilderness and has the same Internet problems as you, so will recommend starlink to him!
Thanks 👍Yes it's been very good since I've had it, I can even play online games again. Yes not much in DL2, I'm more north and west from there and it's even more in the wilderness 😂😂😂
That depends on your knowledge and experience. I used to do a few retro game consoles with vacuum fluorescent display, they weren't complicated and pretty easy to work on. Just depends on what you want to have a go at fixing or for me, what people sometimes ask me to fix.
Thanks 👍 Since making the video, someone who saw it sent me the programming software for the chip, and I've bought a couple of chips. I emailed Starlink for the settings but no reply 😢 I still might have another go at this in a future video.
for those glass panes I can really recommend using those suction cups for windows panes. Place the device in a vise (with towel to not damage anything) and use the suction cup to pull up on the glass while heating with the rework station. Oh and those plastic rivots are best tackled with rework station at 175 degrees celcius, perfect temp to melt the plastic just enough to become malleable without burning. that way you can reuse the plastic rivots when reassembling using a soldering iron with big flat tip.
Good call on the rework station, It still might be tricky to try and heat all of them while lifting the board. I'm not sure on the suction cup though. The silicone didn't loosen at all with heat. I literally had to slice it all the way round with my metal spudger tool (I actually snapped one of them but forgot to put that bit in the video).
@@BuyitFixit I do the same when replacing keyboards on laptops that are plastic rivoted in. first heat one up while lifting that corner to get it started, then move to the next post and so on, getting them to form back into pillars bit by bit. taking advantage of the little bit of flex in PCBs. I wrote the comment about the heat and suctioncup before you got it out completely and could see how thick that glass was, i was expecting something just a few milimeters thick. The glass is probably acting like a heatsink not letting the adhesive heat up enough. In those cases I like to use artist painting knives / palette knives, heat those up with the rework station and slice through the adhesive, reheating often.
I'd put the power supply into a case and find some kind of small-footprint 4-pin connector that could go into the router to make the new power brick detachable. I don't think you could sell the unit like that but you could certainly use it yourself.
Yes good idea, I had been thinking of something along those lines. Someone after watching the video sent me a copy of the programming software for the IC so I might order some ICs and have another go at this one.
It's a fix mate well done! All you could have done. That HR1211 should have a 500Ω resistor in series between the current-sense resistor and the CSP pin. According to datasheet... This resistor prevents the CSP pin from overstress under AC plug-in or surge conditions. Another solution is to add an external clamping component to CSP. Don't know whether they did this or was a lightning strike or esd damage beyond rated limits?? Anyway good repair on a device that is obviously not designed for repair.
I noticed there was also a very dry joint to the right of D10 +ve contact with burn marks around the wire causing by intermittent contact. This would not have helped smooth working of the supply. Well done on the alternate supply!
Thanks 👍 I couldn't remember seeing any dry joints when I looked at it, but sometimes the microscope lighting shows shadows which do look like the solder joint is dry. Here is a picture of it I just took with my phone as I've still got it on my bench it doesn't look too bad: imgur.com/a/brKlIew although the one above it does look like it possibly might be going dry though.. bloody silver solder.
@@BuyitFixit I was a tv transmitter engineer and these were the bane of my life. We adopted the magnifying glass as our first inspection tool and we found many faults using this method. Maybe RF circuits were more prone to these faults.
It’s a fix Mick in anyone’s book, excellent result put in a nice case and call it done, It go with a pop didn’t it lol, I loved the free firework display thank you for the upload😊
great videos! I'm not sure if anyone's mentioned it but have you looked at getting some hot tweezers for those SMD components? I just saw you using hot air on those diodes and they blew away and it looked a bit frustrating. I bought the YIHUA 938D from Aliexpress for ~$40 USD and have been happy with it. Also have you used a Transistor Withstand Voltage Tester before? They are handy for getting values of zener diodes, MOV's, TVSS diodes, GDT and just basically if a component is behaving as it should. I got one from aliexpress for around $25 USD
Thanks for that 👍 I usually have a lot less airflow, but I forgot I had turned it up when trying to soften the glue on the glass! I did buy a cheap pair of hot tweezer things before but was going to build a PSU for them and never got round to it. I've not heard of the tester you mentioned I'll look into that! Thanks for sharing!
Of course it’s a fix. Might not be terribly elegant but its functionality is intact, that’s a fix , all day long! What if you got a known good board with same configuration, could you use a TL866 programmer/ reader to copy the IC config from the good ic and then use the tl866 again , to program the new ic? Or is it proprietary software/firmware? Great video as always though!!
Nice video as always, thanks! More of a workaround than a FIX - but it's possibly a FIX doomed to fail by design! I wonder what the manufacturer would say about a new power supply for this thing,
That was a really hard one with the amount of time you must have spent on it. I think you can call it fixed as you did get it to work, thanks for doing videos as there very interesting.
I like the journey and fault-finding even if it's not technically an "as from factory" fix. Interesting that Pinorich Villa is accommodation in Cameroon!
Thanks 👍Yes someone else mentioned that place in Cameroon too! Perhaps it was the previous owners holiday place or something as they seem to be listing stuff from collection in London.
Ahead of the game son. Skills and nice one .Last time I looked, the bugger (see below), is still busy whacking the connectivity together for his Mars Bar stuff = more board repair vids for us😂👏👍🏻🤙🏿. ps talking about EM and his mates.
If you live near your distribution transformer your voltage will always be high. I had that problem years ago when incandescent bulbs were still the main source of light. I had around 250V when there supposed to be 230V and they were burning out like crazy! However it's still within the limits, as everything between 207V and 253V is (+/- 10%). Not sure if the limits in UK for your 240V are the same as in EU.
Yes, we are very rural and there is a pole transformer that runs about 4 properties including ours. The problem is when our solar panels kick in when it's really sunny, I've often had 255, 258v etc and even had the solar trip out at 263v
UK supply spec is 230 V -6% +10%, so technically 248 V is within spec. However the way distribution works is that your nominal 230 V is set by fixed tappings at your local sub-station. If those local tappings provide you with a nominal 248 V that means 248 V -6% +10%, which translates to a range of 233 to 272 V...
Is t this a mesh node now? I fast forwarded so maybe missed that discussion. I have one with shattered front glass , but works fine, from a drop on a top corner so was watching for the glass remove step
@ 38:43 Was that your cat offering his/her input?? 🤣 This is the first video of yours I've seen and you seem to have a lot of the same actions & thought processes that i do when working on these types of repairs.... you got a new subscriber.
Thanks 👍Yes it was the cat! (well one of them). I might have another go at this one as someone sent me the programming software and I've ordered some chips from Aliexpress. I usually like to get things working the way they were originally. Check out the FLIR thermal camera / multimeter I repaired or some of my other content. I've came across some rather interesting problems. One video was a solar inverter where I repaired it (Aurora solar inverter video) but then needed a password to adjust a setting so I did another video where I reverse engineered their software and wrote my own password tool (no password, no problem). Hope you enjoy and thanks for the sub!
Using a tungsten filament bulb in series with a power supply or amplifier when powering it on after repair is a technique known as a "bulb tester" or "bulb limiter." It serves several important purposes in electronics repair, especially when dealing with equipment that has suffered from a short circuit or other faults: Current Limiting: The tungsten filament bulb acts as a current limiter due to its positive temperature coefficient (PTC) characteristic. When cold, the resistance of the bulb is much lower than when it is operating normally (hot). This means when you first turn on the power, the bulb limits the initial surge of current, protecting sensitive components like transistors, diodes, and capacitors. Fault Detection: If there is still a short circuit or other fault in the circuit being repaired, the bulb will glow brightly instead of dimly lighting up. This happens because a short circuit causes excessive current flow, which the bulb cannot limit enough, thus it glows brightly or even fully lights up, indicating there's still an issue to be addressed. Safety: By limiting the current, the bulb prevents excessive current from damaging components and reduces the risk of catastrophic failures such as transistors or other components exploding or getting damaged severely. It acts as a fuse of sorts but with a resettable nature (once the fault is corrected). Gradual Power-Up: The bulb also provides a gentle "soft start" to the circuit, allowing power supplies and capacitors to charge up gradually rather than all at once, which can stress components and cause further damage. Experience and Prevention: Based on your experience, using the bulb tester has saved you from damaging transistors and other components, which underscores its effectiveness in real-world electronics repair scenarios. In summary, using a tungsten filament bulb in series when powering on repaired electronics is a practical and cost-effective method to protect both the circuit and the components being repaired. It provides current limiting, fault indication, and a gentle power-up sequence, ultimately reducing the risk of further damage and increasing the likelihood of successful repairs.
Yes I've been meaning to build a "dim bulb tester", It's on my ever increasing to-do list. I'll have to see if I can obtain some old filament light bulbs.
Hi! I think it is an amazing fix reason why is, that if you would have been on the moon with a broken device and that is the only fix to bring us home, you bet yourself that fix will be spoken about for a very long time. Good job man nothing goes to waste.
The bed of a 3D printer makes a great heating plate to soften the glue on things like that. Just place it glass side down on the bed for 10 or 15 minutes then it can be easily removed without any damage.
Good idea. I've got a couple of 3D printers. The only problem is that silicone doesn't seem to soften with heat as in this case, but it would definitely work for adhesives that go soft with heat 👍
It's a fix in my books !! so are you saying that chip was just a power supply please ? if so then that's nuts lol ! a programmable PSU ? Well you have a spare now. Blimey that's fast compared to my measly 40 MBps great fix even if I don't know how it works .....cheers !!
One thing I noticed with the Gen 3 Starlink router ... it runs bloody hot. So I'm actively cooling it down with a few system fans, maybe that will help make it last a bit longer 🙄🤷♂
Interesting, not seen a gen 3. I'm sure one will blow up at some point so I'll get to look at one. Surely cooling it down can't hurt. I would think it would prolong the life of the capacitors at the very least 👍
Yes, done that a few times, although I do usually try and re-fit them like on the SSD I repaired. It was just a decoupling capacitor across the supply to the main IC that had shorted.
I am still amazed that power supplies still have so many descrete components, nowadays. Are the demands of every appliance so different, that there isn't a common chipset for this kind of thing? I work in development and reinventing the wheel is a costly waste of time. So I know I must be missing something. 😊
![BOWKYLION - วิงวอน (ex-change) [Official MV]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/cLdnZWDaO-w/mqdefault.jpg)
If I repair any power supply / voltage converter or any amplifier in which there was a short circuit, I always give a tungsten filament bulb in series when I first switch it on.
The bulb must be of sufficient wattage.
If the bulb glows after switching on the device, it means that there is still a short circuit in the circuit. If there is no short-circuit, the bulb will flare a little when switched on and will glow gently.
This saved me a lot of transistors. Nothing "explodes" when turned on.
Seconded. It's known as a "dim bulb tester" and I stocked up on 40/60/100W bulbs whilst they were still available to buy for this very reason!
Nice one . I have been using that technique from the 1980s . Can't go wrong👍
Uncle Doug is a big fan of said method.
Thanks for that 👍Yes I've been meaning to build a dim bulb tester for a while, but it's one of those things I've never got round to doing. I may struggle to get some incandescent light bulbs these days but I'll have a look on eBay etc.
I will start doing this sounds like a great idea and if it'll save me from more work it's worth the time setting it up.
Just tore the same router apart and pretty much same problem so thanks for the video i was able to get mine working two days ago but its nice to see a video that would have pointed me in the right direction in the beginning and would have saved me time in the long run. Older i get the more i value my time.
Cheers Scott, what was the issue with your router?
Yes, you delivered. When you were compromised beyond any reasonable way to survive, you still delivered the goods, 100%. Well done.
Thank you 👍
Classic lightning strike damage. Nice work. 👍
Thanks 👍
The art or repairing electronics is the diagnosis part. Replacing the component doesn't require lots of knowledge and experience. So technically speaking, this is a perfect fix.
Thank you 👍
Most people probably would have stopped at the issue with the ic. Great to see some good old fashioned out of the box ingenuity. Glad the algorithm pointed me here! Definitely a fix and subscription earned!
Thanks Mark, if you liked this one I've done a lot better in some of my other videos. The FLIR thermal camera springs to mind, and the solar inverter where I repaired it, then needed to change a setting.. and the company wouldn't give me the password.. I had to take matters into my own hands 😂😂 There's been a few times where I've had to get creative too!
@@BuyitFixit awesome, I’ll definitely check them out. Thanks!
Short time lurker and long time tinkerer here. That's a fix for sure as it now works as intended (with a little additional bulk). Great diagnosis and repair!
Thank you 👍🙂
Brilliant "work around" I'd say bro👍👍 With no way to get the chip replaced and programed, this was a solid solution and fix. Starlink certainly seems to not want these repaired by the way they're built, glued and melted together. Great job, well done getting it up and working... Thanks for the video and work. See ya next time.
I was surprised to see it both over engineered and having a crap spec Mediatek SoC at the same time.
Could have been the same size & construction as a standard router and had a normal (replaceable) DC adapter without performing any differently.
Talk about reinventing the wheel
Thanks 👍
@@incandescentwithrage over engineered with the sole purpose of never being opened and repaired, and they’ll claim it’s for water resistance
Starlink are pretty good about just sending you a replacement router whenever you have a problem with it, presumably because they can't make money off of your subscription fees if you don't have a working router, but it's sure a refreshing thing to see an old broken one brought back to life! Great work!
You bet Musky is a bread head first
Bravo for your skill and tenacity! From a dead router to managing to get into the box, getting past the fireworks and a chip that can not be sourced or programmed, to having a working router with external psu.
On your mains voltage readings, the voltage and tolerance for an electricity supply is 230 volts -6%, +10%. This gives an allowed voltage range of 216.2 volts to 253.0 volts.
Thanks for that 👍Yes at times our voltage is 255v or more (especially when our solar panels kick in during the day) which is why I contacted the power grid. I show this on another video when I was fixing something else. I've even had the inverter error a few times with over voltage.
En realidad el chip se puede obtener, incluso yo compré en Aliexpress, cambie el chip y comenzó a trabajar pero no sé mantiene el voltaje constante debido a los parámetros que se deben programar
It's a perfectly reasonable fix in my book. I love the persistence.
Cheers Robert 🙂👍
Fixing a starlink router with parts of an old hoverboard. That's McGyver, Star Trek and Back to the future in one video. Great. Thanks!
😂😂😂😂Cheers 👍
Hat off 👌
It is a fix and a half, Wow , you have no limits of impossible. Very proud of you. thank you.
Thank you too! 👍🙂
I think you could call that an excellent fix, Mick. How you manage to deduce the issue every time is beyond me. I wish I had your skills. Thanks for sharing.
Thanks Brian 👍🙂
Glued down panel, melted plastic sprues holding down the main elements - obviously designed to be e waste right from the start.
Or, just maybe, it’s made this way to be a mains powered device that’s supposed to remain water-tight, safe, and corrosion free.
@@TheXGamer969 Why would this need to be watertight when indoors? Also, it's easily possible to make items watertight with screws and removable seals.
@@TheXGamer969 its a fucking wifi router not an outdoor starlink antenna.....a very expensive one that they recommend you buy 3 of for full coverage ....what a heap of shit.
Yup, it's appalling - there's no excuse for this kind of waste. Manufacturers who do this will state that it's to make it watertight but that's merely an excuse, what they really want to do is make the device as difficult to repair as possible, therefore meaning that another unit needs to be purchased when the original fails. Too many corrupt and incompetent governments allow too many manufacturers to get away with this sort of garbage. There should be strict laws against making devices difficult or impossible to repair.
Sadly more & more manufacturers are making their products so they can’t be repaired without damaging them in the process, all in the name of profit.
The nice thing about this equipment 'failure' is, the varistor/thermistor served its purpose perfectly. It failed so the rest of the circuit board would mostly be left unharmed.
Very true 👍
But it was harmed. The PFC / PWM chip was fried.
Loving your mild mannered tenacity
Thanks 👍
I think it's turned up to eleven-nacity!
You are VERY lucky to get it to boot up. I commend you on your tenacity. I would have stopped when I saw the MOV blown apart. Because a surge powerful enough to violently destroy a component like that surely would foretell serious damage further down the line. Good spare receiver in case your other one fails. Or look for a dish under the same circumstances.
I still might have another go at this one in the future as someone sent me the software to program the chip. I did email Starlink to see if they had the values, but no response unfortunately.
If the system is working, then it is a fix. That's the object of it all. The funny thing is, the company sunk tons of money in that power supply for no reason, when a cheap AliExpress power supply works just as good on it. You could attach the supply to the back of the unit and once set up, not even realize it has an external power supply on it, and it would look factory. Awesome repair again. I'm glad you were able to save it and use it.
Thanks and very true 👍Yes it does seem very complicated, I think it's more to increase efficiency and reduce power consumption.
That's a definite fix by using a replacement part, I see no problem with calling it a fix. Your PC analogy is spot on and could be applied to all manner of things. For example, if a car's engine blows up and is impossible to repair then a new engine will get the car running again, therefore that too is a fix. Going back to PCB fixes: caps, assorted components, ICs, etc often need to be replaced and there's no issues with calling them fixes.
Now if you had replaced the whole Starlink router with a new router that of course wouldn't be a fix. 🙂
Thanks for that 👍Yes I usually try to repair things down to component level, so substituting a whole PSU isn't what I wanted to do, but I guess it is what it is 🙂
Nice job. Definitely a FIX! Like fixing a flat tire on your car by putting on the spare. No, you didn't fix the original problem, but you got the car back on the road in working condition. Same thing with your Starlink. Now it works and you have a spare!
Cheers Steve, I've been sent the programming software for the IC by someone who watched the video. I might have another go, although I still don't have the settings. I did email Starlink asking them for the settings for the IC and didn't get a reply....
I find it useful to use a black light on the circuit board as it will show you where the coating has heated up or melted.
Interesting, Thanks for the tip 👍
Long time viewer here. Love your content. I think it’s interesting solving the puzzle. You found the issue but can’t source or find the components for totally fixing the issue. But there is no mystery left at least. It’s “fixed” as far as possible.
Thanks 🙂👍
That’s a fix. Great work and nice jump scare!
😂😂Thanks 👍
Ha nope it is not a fix! It is infact an upgrade as should the power supply go wrong again it is now more fixable than it was prior. Nice solution I really like your determination to get things at least to a working state and also your approach to working through the problems and if needed an out of the box way to make the most out of a bad situation. Really nice work this made for a great watch with a satisfying outcome. 👍
😂😂😂Thanks 👍
Use low melt solder for effortless desoldering. On things like this I usually connect black lead to ground & probe with the red lead looking for low resistances / shorts. Low voltage injection at points where a short appears, while looking through a thermal camera, quickly isolates the bad component. A dim bulb circuit, as mentioned by another user, eliminates blown components on power up.
Thanks👍, yes I've made a dim bulb tester since making this video, I had been meaning to make one for a while but it's something that I never got round to doing (until this).
I've got some low melt solder, I normally use it for things like HDMI or USB connectors that take a lot of heat.
Good Day. I thought I would bring my experience with doing odd-ball repairs. When taking plastic tabs off and they need to be drilled, A cheap set of forstner bits does a wonderful job with them especially when space is tight. Thanks for posting this repair
And that you kindly for the for the tip👍
Yes Re-pair it is, keep it up brother, main goal is not to make it look nice & asthetic , main goal is to be up and running, which you did! pat yourself!! This was a lightening strike failure mostly likely.. no problem, I too did the same kind of repair to an GPON OLT (Optical Line Terminal) Unit's Power Supply Ckt. in a telecom exchange nearby my home (owned by a govt. telecom company "BSNL" ) I too installed a power supply unit just as you have in this video.. and it was up & running.. & brought the internet connection back up of nearly 600 people in my area who were connected via Fiber optic modem (aka ONT) to that OLT Unit.. & guess what... it's still running and its been 3 yrs, So Yes it is repair work. Nice work btw..
Thank you 👍And also thanks for sharing that very interesting story! Well done on helping those people stay connected!
Excellent as ever. It's great how you show your working, i learn so much.
Thank you 👍
Its a fix!! Nice job on the workaround - many would have seen the smoke and give up - you take it as a challenge!!
😂😂Thanks 👍🙂
Brilliant bush fix love the way you were thinking outside the box literally 😅. If you were stuck for one you would be happy to use it all day long . Saving the planet one Star Link at a time
😂😂😂Thanks 👍
Megabits per second, not megabytes, I think? Envy your tenacity and patience. Excellent videos, always look forward to finding out what’s next on the blue mat.
Thank you 🙂👍
@@BuyitFixit networking is always in ...bits and storage always in ...bytes
Brilliant work around getting it working, so I'm calling it a fix.
Thanks 👍
As soon as I got my hands on a Gigabit PoE injector and a pair of starlink to rj45 cables, I threw that junk to where it belongs. Now my starlink and WiFi router both work directly off a 48V battery. Aside from much better WiFi speeds, coverage and Ethernet connectivity, I've got ~25W base load reduction and the power inverter is finally able to switch off on zero load.
Nice 👍I don't actually use my Starlink router either (well only to power the dish) as I've got it set to bypass mode. I got the ethernet adapter as I didn't want to cut the cable, which then feeds into a GT-AC5300 Asus gaming router, which then feeds 2 other routers in various locations around our property and a couple of outdoor access points.
Good workaround. Assuming the 48V bit is still working, you could use a 20V to 12V DC to DC, something like a Recom R-78K12-2.0 (if you don't need isolation and you don't need the quantum PFC bit), for a more permanent fix. I did laugh at the sealed front, for an indoor unit. Hope Louis isn't watching, he would also be reaching for the Ginger.
😂😂😂Thanks 👍
Definitely consider it fixed. You could 3d print (or have someone else 3d print) a custom base to hold the power supply. Really enjoy watching the troubleshooting process.
Thanks Chris 👍
It's actually a very good fix for the situation. That star-link was going in the trash. Otherwise, you saved it, try putting it back together as best as possible, and possibly donate it🙃
Cheers 👍Someone sent me the software after seeing this, so I might have another go at this one in a future video 🙂
@24:04 - selfie time :) Many moons ago I was working on a rather large UPS that had failed and did similar, although the flash was bright enough to illuminate the workshop and get suitable reactions from my colleagues. Never lived that one down to this day.
😂😂😂to both 👍
I count it as a fix. Great work and thank you for sharing your thoroughness in finding the root cause. Too bad this Starlink router was evidently not designed for repairs...
Thanks 👍Yes not the most user serviceable device. I might have another go at this as someone sent me the software to program the IC. I emailed Starlink to see if they would sent me the settings.. no reply as yet....
I call it a fix! Clever. Our mains here are 124-127V, which is kinda high.Many of my old radios were built when it was 100-110V, so I either run a stepdown, or just don't use them long. Haven't cooked a power tranny yet!
Thanks 👍
That's definately a fix!! Great fault finding processes
Thank you 👍
I measure repair success as to whether or not I have to spend a bunch of money to replace something.....so this is definitely a success!
Cheers Paul 👍
Mesmerised watching this. Superb
Cheers 👍
We have the same here high voltage, i bought a volt regulator too keep the appliances safe.
Excellent fix - the original power supply looks elegant, but practically it is hard to repair. Therefore, you made a very wise replacement.
Thanks 👍someone recently sent me the software so I might have another go at the original 🙂
Great video. And yes, I'd call it a fix. There's only so much you can do!
Thanks Ian 👍Someone has sent me the programming software so I might have another go at this (I've ordered some chips)...
What a great work around to fix it,And still the undefeated champion of the fix it world 👍🤘
😂😂😂Thanks 👍
It didn't go when you got it, and now it does. That is definitely a fix. Great lateral thinking to cure the problem 👍.
Chers
Pete' New Zealand.
Cheers Pete 👍🙂
Any device that is a fix is a win in my books well done Sir I enjoy your fault findings keep those videos coming 😊
Thank you 👍
Absolutely a fix 👌 well done.
Thanks 👍
I'd bang in a boost converter for the 48V supply and drive the whole device from a 12V source.
Yes I think a few people have done that for RV conversions. I might have another go at this one in the future as someone sent me the programming software for the ICs.
It's definitely a fix, not a restoration level fix but a working fix for sure.
Cheers 👍🙂
You got it to work, Mick, so that is a fix. Even if you had to use an external power supply. Nice work!
Cheers Mikey 👍
good fix, you could mount power supply somewhere tidy
Thanks 👍Someone sent me the software after I seeing the video, so I might do a re-visit on this one in the future 🙂
For us tech's, that's a #1 fix. Put in a barrel plug for the PSU
Cheers 👍🙂 Yes I might do that and just keep it as a backup.
@@BuyitFixit yep :)
Couldn't agree more dear sir.
Great video as always and definitely a fix in my book! My dad is a tinkerer who lives in the DL2 wilderness and has the same Internet problems as you, so will recommend starlink to him!
Thanks 👍Yes it's been very good since I've had it, I can even play online games again. Yes not much in DL2, I'm more north and west from there and it's even more in the wilderness 😂😂😂
That’s a solid fix. If it does what it’s supposed to do, then well done!
Thanks 👍
I love yours and my mate vince channel. Im beginning to start my own repairs but no youtube channel yet.
Thanks 👍Yes it was watching Vince that gave me the idea of starting to do repairs on YT. I've spoken to him quite a few times on emails 🙂
What would you buy from ebay you think would be the easiest to start with?
That depends on your knowledge and experience. I used to do a few retro game consoles with vacuum fluorescent display, they weren't complicated and pretty easy to work on. Just depends on what you want to have a go at fixing or for me, what people sometimes ask me to fix.
Hi, I use "orange terpene" (orange nut oil) to unglue parts. This oil make glue smooth and fluid.....
Thanks for sharing! But would it work on silicone sealant? The stuff on this was akin to what they bond car windscreens in with.
Beautiful work as usual. You're the best! I wish you a greay and beautiful weekend!!!!!
Thank you 👍Hope you have a great weekend too!
It's working, so that's a fix for me. Great job 👏 👍
Cheers Philip 👍
Came across this channel late last night and I just wanted to say I love it! Keep up with the great videos! :)
Thank you 👍and welcome aboard 🙂
@@BuyitFixit Many thanks! :D
I think you done a great job here.
Thanks Keith 👍
I call that a WIN!! I have to admit I was a bit glad the varistor and fuse didn't fix it so that the video was longer. 😂
Thanks for that 👍Yes, I wasn't sure if it was a bit too long winded / boring in places but it seems to be doing well👍
That's a fix, impressive.
Cheers 👍I might have another go at this as someone sent me the programming software and I ordered a couple of chips.
That was worth watching. Nice Job even though it didnt fully work out.
Thanks 👍 Since making the video, someone who saw it sent me the programming software for the chip, and I've bought a couple of chips. I emailed Starlink for the settings but no reply 😢 I still might have another go at this in a future video.
For me, you took the front glass off is a success on its own, the rest is bonus, good work, repair indeed.
Very true! I did see other people try to disassemble these and they made a right mess 😂😂😂😂👍
for those glass panes I can really recommend using those suction cups for windows panes. Place the device in a vise (with towel to not damage anything) and use the suction cup to pull up on the glass while heating with the rework station. Oh and those plastic rivots are best tackled with rework station at 175 degrees celcius, perfect temp to melt the plastic just enough to become malleable without burning. that way you can reuse the plastic rivots when reassembling using a soldering iron with big flat tip.
Good call on the rework station, It still might be tricky to try and heat all of them while lifting the board. I'm not sure on the suction cup though. The silicone didn't loosen at all with heat. I literally had to slice it all the way round with my metal spudger tool (I actually snapped one of them but forgot to put that bit in the video).
@@BuyitFixit I do the same when replacing keyboards on laptops that are plastic rivoted in. first heat one up while lifting that corner to get it started, then move to the next post and so on, getting them to form back into pillars bit by bit. taking advantage of the little bit of flex in PCBs.
I wrote the comment about the heat and suctioncup before you got it out completely and could see how thick that glass was, i was expecting something just a few milimeters thick. The glass is probably acting like a heatsink not letting the adhesive heat up enough. In those cases I like to use artist painting knives / palette knives, heat those up with the rework station and slice through the adhesive, reheating often.
I'd put the power supply into a case and find some kind of small-footprint 4-pin connector that could go into the router to make the new power brick detachable. I don't think you could sell the unit like that but you could certainly use it yourself.
Yes good idea, I had been thinking of something along those lines. Someone after watching the video sent me a copy of the programming software for the IC so I might order some ICs and have another go at this one.
It's a fix mate well done! All you could have done. That HR1211 should have a 500Ω resistor in series between the current-sense resistor and the CSP pin. According to datasheet... This resistor prevents the CSP pin from overstress under AC plug-in or surge conditions. Another solution is to add an external clamping component to CSP. Don't know whether they did this or was a lightning strike or esd damage beyond rated limits?? Anyway good repair on a device that is obviously not designed for repair.
Thanks Dave 👍
I noticed there was also a very dry joint to the right of D10 +ve contact with burn marks around the wire causing by intermittent contact. This would not have helped smooth working of the supply. Well done on the alternate supply!
Thanks 👍 I couldn't remember seeing any dry joints when I looked at it, but sometimes the microscope lighting shows shadows which do look like the solder joint is dry. Here is a picture of it I just took with my phone as I've still got it on my bench it doesn't look too bad: imgur.com/a/brKlIew although the one above it does look like it possibly might be going dry though.. bloody silver solder.
@@BuyitFixit I was a tv transmitter engineer and these were the bane of my life. We adopted the magnifying glass as our first inspection tool and we found many faults using this method. Maybe RF circuits were more prone to these faults.
I think I'd call it a salvage. Well done!
Thanks 👍
It’s a fix Mick in anyone’s book, excellent result put in a nice case and call it done,
It go with a pop didn’t it lol, I loved the free firework display thank you for the upload😊
Cheers Gary 👍
@@BuyitFixit 👍
great videos! I'm not sure if anyone's mentioned it but have you looked at getting some hot tweezers for those SMD components? I just saw you using hot air on those diodes and they blew away and it looked a bit frustrating. I bought the YIHUA 938D from Aliexpress for ~$40 USD and have been happy with it.
Also have you used a Transistor Withstand Voltage Tester before? They are handy for getting values of zener diodes, MOV's, TVSS diodes, GDT and just basically if a component is behaving as it should. I got one from aliexpress for around $25 USD
Thanks for that 👍 I usually have a lot less airflow, but I forgot I had turned it up when trying to soften the glue on the glass! I did buy a cheap pair of hot tweezer things before but was going to build a PSU for them and never got round to it. I've not heard of the tester you mentioned I'll look into that! Thanks for sharing!
Of course it’s a fix. Might not be terribly elegant but its functionality is intact, that’s a fix , all day long!
What if you got a known good board with same configuration, could you use a TL866 programmer/ reader to copy the IC config from the good ic and then use the tl866 again , to program the new ic? Or is it proprietary software/firmware?
Great video as always though!!
Thanks 👍someone has sent me the software so I might see if I can get a some chips and have a revisit on this one 🙂
That’s a fix . I’m amazed by your knowledge. Well done !
Thank you 👍
Case & close it up. Definitely a fix in my eyes. Nice repair
Thank you 👍
Nice video as always, thanks!
More of a workaround than a FIX - but it's possibly a FIX doomed to fail by design!
I wonder what the manufacturer would say about a new power supply for this thing,
Thanks 👍
That was a really hard one with the amount of time you must have spent on it. I think you can call it fixed as you did get it to work, thanks for doing videos as there very interesting.
Thank you 👍
49C on the resistor is an EIA-96 code and converts to 31.6K, so that one measured good.
Yes 👍
I like the journey and fault-finding even if it's not technically an "as from factory" fix.
Interesting that Pinorich Villa is accommodation in Cameroon!
Thanks 👍Yes someone else mentioned that place in Cameroon too! Perhaps it was the previous owners holiday place or something as they seem to be listing stuff from collection in London.
Happy you showed that. I’m newer going to buy anything from them! Item clearly made so no one should be able to repair the dam ting!
Thanks 👍yes not a very serviceable item. I have very limited options for internet here which is why I had to bite the bullet and get a system myself.
The uk mains voltage limits are 230V +10%, -5%, (used to be 240V +6%, -6%), so don’t worry about 248V.
Yes, 248V isn't too bad, it's when it's 255V or more which I've had a few times...
Ahead of the game son. Skills and nice one .Last time I looked, the bugger (see below), is still busy whacking the connectivity together for his Mars Bar stuff = more board repair vids for us😂👏👍🏻🤙🏿.
ps talking about EM and his mates.
😂😂😂Thanks👍
If you live near your distribution transformer your voltage will always be high. I had that problem years ago when incandescent bulbs were still the main source of light. I had around 250V when there supposed to be 230V and they were burning out like crazy! However it's still within the limits, as everything between 207V and 253V is (+/- 10%). Not sure if the limits in UK for your 240V are the same as in EU.
Yes, we are very rural and there is a pole transformer that runs about 4 properties including ours. The problem is when our solar panels kick in when it's really sunny, I've often had 255, 258v etc and even had the solar trip out at 263v
UK supply spec is 230 V -6% +10%, so technically 248 V is within spec. However the way distribution works is that your nominal 230 V is set by fixed tappings at your local sub-station. If those local tappings provide you with a nominal 248 V that means 248 V -6% +10%, which translates to a range of 233 to 272 V...
Nice way to fix and test... Good job!
Cheers 🙂👍
Is t this a mesh node now? I fast forwarded so maybe missed that discussion.
I have one with shattered front glass , but works fine, from a drop on a top corner so was watching for the glass remove step
No, I'm not using their router as I've got mine in bypass mode. I already had quite an extensive mesh network with nodes in outbuildings etc.
Nice hack on the pwr supply super helpful information! Solid troubleshooting. Overall how much time did you have into this one?
Thanks 👍Probably a couple of hours, not including editing video and ordering parts etc
It’s a fix,I enjoyed.
Cheers 👍I might have another go at it sometime, as someone has sent me the programming software for the chips.
Be careful with "the mesh" breather part as it may be gortex. Ive come across similar before. Great vid Thanks
Thanks for that 👍
Any chance of a high resolution picture of the contacts of where to solder leads to
Good work. If I had gotten that far I'd consider it a fix!
Thanks 👍
@ 38:43 Was that your cat offering his/her input?? 🤣
This is the first video of yours I've seen and you seem to have a lot of the same actions & thought processes that i do when working on these types of repairs.... you got a new subscriber.
Thanks 👍Yes it was the cat! (well one of them). I might have another go at this one as someone sent me the programming software and I've ordered some chips from Aliexpress. I usually like to get things working the way they were originally. Check out the FLIR thermal camera / multimeter I repaired or some of my other content. I've came across some rather interesting problems. One video was a solar inverter where I repaired it (Aurora solar inverter video) but then needed a password to adjust a setting so I did another video where I reverse engineered their software and wrote my own password tool (no password, no problem). Hope you enjoy and thanks for the sub!
Using a tungsten filament bulb in series with a power supply or amplifier when powering it on after repair is a technique known as a "bulb tester" or "bulb limiter." It serves several important purposes in electronics repair, especially when dealing with equipment that has suffered from a short circuit or other faults:
Current Limiting: The tungsten filament bulb acts as a current limiter due to its positive temperature coefficient (PTC) characteristic. When cold, the resistance of the bulb is much lower than when it is operating normally (hot). This means when you first turn on the power, the bulb limits the initial surge of current, protecting sensitive components like transistors, diodes, and capacitors.
Fault Detection: If there is still a short circuit or other fault in the circuit being repaired, the bulb will glow brightly instead of dimly lighting up. This happens because a short circuit causes excessive current flow, which the bulb cannot limit enough, thus it glows brightly or even fully lights up, indicating there's still an issue to be addressed.
Safety: By limiting the current, the bulb prevents excessive current from damaging components and reduces the risk of catastrophic failures such as transistors or other components exploding or getting damaged severely. It acts as a fuse of sorts but with a resettable nature (once the fault is corrected).
Gradual Power-Up: The bulb also provides a gentle "soft start" to the circuit, allowing power supplies and capacitors to charge up gradually rather than all at once, which can stress components and cause further damage.
Experience and Prevention: Based on your experience, using the bulb tester has saved you from damaging transistors and other components, which underscores its effectiveness in real-world electronics repair scenarios.
In summary, using a tungsten filament bulb in series when powering on repaired electronics is a practical and cost-effective method to protect both the circuit and the components being repaired. It provides current limiting, fault indication, and a gentle power-up sequence, ultimately reducing the risk of further damage and increasing the likelihood of successful repairs.
Yes I've been meaning to build a "dim bulb tester", It's on my ever increasing to-do list. I'll have to see if I can obtain some old filament light bulbs.
Hi! I think it is an amazing fix reason why is, that if you would have been on the moon with a broken device and that is the only fix to bring us home, you bet yourself that fix will be spoken about for a very long time. Good job man nothing goes to waste.
Thanks for that 🙂👍
The bed of a 3D printer makes a great heating plate to soften the glue on things like that. Just place it glass side down on the bed for 10 or 15 minutes then it can be easily removed without any damage.
Good idea. I've got a couple of 3D printers. The only problem is that silicone doesn't seem to soften with heat as in this case, but it would definitely work for adhesives that go soft with heat 👍
It's a fix in my books !! so are you saying that chip was just a power supply please ? if so then that's nuts lol ! a programmable PSU ? Well you have a spare now. Blimey that's fast compared to my measly 40 MBps great fix even if I don't know how it works .....cheers !!
Thanks Andymouse, and yes that PSU chip is programmable, and pretty much a microcontroller with a digital core it seems!
One thing I noticed with the Gen 3 Starlink router ... it runs bloody hot. So I'm actively cooling it down with a few system fans, maybe that will help make it last a bit longer 🙄🤷♂
Interesting, not seen a gen 3. I'm sure one will blow up at some point so I'll get to look at one. Surely cooling it down can't hurt. I would think it would prolong the life of the capacitors at the very least 👍
Sometimes the caps are just for filtering and can just be removed and it’ll work just fine.
Yes, done that a few times, although I do usually try and re-fit them like on the SSD I repaired. It was just a decoupling capacitor across the supply to the main IC that had shorted.
grazie stupenda soluzione al problema sei uno in gamba continua cosi ciao
Grazie 👍
I am still amazed that power supplies still have so many descrete components, nowadays. Are the demands of every appliance so different, that there isn't a common chipset for this kind of thing?
I work in development and reinventing the wheel is a costly waste of time.
So I know I must be missing something. 😊
It's supposed to be in the name of efficiency and energy saving. Power factor control etc