Thanks so much. This was the BEST video I watched and I successfully repaired my ac clutch without having to remove the entire unit...your explanation and the way you demonstrated was perfect. Thanks again.
hey, wicked how to. Do you have the dimensions for the new bearing ? I have the same GM style compressor. I believe its around 60-62mm in diameter (OD).
Super helpful to me. First time I ever came across a crimped in bearing & this video is the only one I have found that gives a solution. Thank you for sharing!
I did not know those could be changed out, everyone here said you have to change out the whole compressor. This will save a lot of money for people wanting to do the repair by themself. Thanks.
i pulled the pully out of a subaru 08 compressor, replaced the bearing and everything is good, today the bearing started to backout, i will take it off and try to close the lip again with chisel to hold the bearing in place. thanks for all the information bro ✌️🏻
You did a great job with your video and you were awesome at explaining what you were doing and why. Something did raise an eyebrow when it cost $20 for the bearing when, in all honesty, Rockauto has the full clutch for 20 something. It would save alot of time and hassle.
Good tutorial. The wooden plank is a very good idea. I need to change it on my Peugeot 206 cc 1.6 16v because my electo magnet is dead and the bearing made some noises. A refurbished compressor costs 200€ (almost 225$) and add 50€ (55$) for the gas reload. The repair parts only cost 50€ (55$) and i don't need to reload the gas. You can replace the single double bearing with 2 simple bearing. It's less expensive, you can find it easily and finally it's the same results.
Went to do same thing on my Mazda CX7 AC Clutch - the bearing costs the same as a full clutch kit - so I just purchased the clutch kit, and I have a spare magnetic coil too.
great video man, I'm going to fix my Buick tomorrow I was scared to try to do it myself but you explain it well with good audio and video quality,new subscriber good job
Depending on location it can be a lot harder or easier than changing spark plugs. On buick rendezvous the a/c compressor is buried down below the water pump on passenger side. A standard autozone clutch pulley removal tool 27001 was to big so I had to rug something small enough to pull the clutch pulley out.
Good stuff! I've replaced noisy alternator bearings too...definitely worth the extra labor than putting in a junky reman unit. Have you ever seen a failing A/C clutch that turns on intermittently? My guess to the cause would be the stator coil shorting out when it heats up...
motoYam82 It's possible for the coil to short out but it's more likely that the coil or compressor doesn't have a good clean ground or the main positive feed wire has a short in it.
Rather than tack welding the new bearing in place, you can use a center punch to make dimples in the pulley along the outer edge of the bearing race. The raised edge of the dimple will be enough to keep the new bearing in place, but will not present too much resistance when you have to replace the bearing again in the future, whereas the tack welds will need to be ground off. I also recommend using a 40 dollar bearing (such as one made by National Bearing) to ensure you're not changing the bearing again for a few years. Some of those cheaper bearings might last only a year.
@@sixtyfiveford Sorry that's not my experience. I've used center punch dimples for bearings in motorcycle wheels and gear boxes on various types of farm equipment that run at high rpm. Never seen a bearing "walk over" dimples. Never had to grind them off to press out or press in another bearing. I suppose that too few or too many dimples might cause problems, but I just make them about 1-2 inches apart, and that seems to work fine. Granted, I have never replaced an AC clutch pulley bearing, but it seems to be an ordinary bearing. I'm just offering a different suggestion, especially for those who don't have a welder. Readers can decided for themselves.
@@dpspike9368 ive seen the center punch method in many other videos, although have a welder I rather punch them in to make it easier for future replacement.
Love your videos for simple fixes. One suggestion for your tool inventory. If you're going to do bearing swaps, I would purchase a set of bearing drivers. They are for standard bearing sizes, but they make it much easier to drive the bearings out and back in, without possibility of damage. EIS Holden and Essex Brownell are two possible places to get them. As for the lip to keep the bearing retained, a center punch will do the trick nicely. Seat the new bearing, put the tip of the center punch against the inside wall of the journal next to the bearing about every 30 degrees. When you hit the punch, it raises up a small circular area of metal.
Thanks. Yeah, I've heard of guys doing this but never seen it done. I have a ton of tools but I try to the keep the repair videos simple and low cost so the average Joe won't be intimidated to try it.
Smashing tutorial as allways mate :-) I dont have a welder so i think i would lightly coat the inside with locktite then tap the bearing in. As you said though it isnt likely to move :-) Ive used the north/south/east/west tapping method for removing and inserting washing machine bearings, you just have to be patient and it works :-)
sixtyfiveford But your spot on at welding so you used skill, i on the other hand have tryed welding and lets say it made an interesting collection of blobs ha ha :-))
Ah, come on! Even in 2021 this is the ONLY video I can find where the AC Compressor Clutch/Pulley Wheel doesn't just come off with a 10mm nut. Everything was great showing the exact way I had to remove the clutch from a GMC (box truck) and I was waiting for the end to learn how the hack I put it back together, but that part was skipped!!!
Gotta replace the clutch disc and pulley on my car. Although, the clutch disc is still in good shape, it doesn't hurt to replace it in case it has issues. The A/C runs, but not cold enough in 90F+ weather.
hey - thanks for the video & info! would you happen to know if this could cause a grinding noise at engine shut down? when i turn off my 07 yukon - i get a quick noise which sounds like a grinding halt … it’s quick, about 2 seconds. but it sounds almost identical to the noise your bad pulley made when you spun it by hand … but i get no noise as the trucks running. also haven’t engaged the AC system but idk if that matters. been driven myself nuts trying to figure it out. can’t find anything on the internet. how longs it been since ive said that? i finally found the corner of the internet that doesn’t exist & i need it to before i drive my truck off a cliff due to a 2 second grind.
Good video as usually, but I have to disagree about tack welding on a bearing . . . that's always a bad idea. Even microscopic distortion that you can't see can be enough to significantly shorten the bearing life. 1 or 2 centre punch marks on the housing ID would have been enough to retain the bearing, much easier than tack welding and no distortion to the bearing.
russhellmy There's a difference between tack welding through the bearing and just take welding the outer ring. The ground clamp was set so the electric current never flowed through the bearings.
Is there a way to identify what size bearing you need BEFORE you remove the old one? I'd like to order a bearing before I do the work, but I have no idea what size or model number my bearing is on my Subaru (Denso) compressor unit.
i have a shorty ac delete belt im putting on my 89 lesabre t-type 3800 vin c till i can replace my bad clutch bearing. winter sucks. your video might let me tackle it myself. thanks.
my bearing burned out on the ac clutch, i have the same L67 setup, great motor but some typical GM flaws sadly. LIM gaskets, cooling issues, and then minor stuff. But still a great setup vs other motors out there.
My 2001 Oldsmobile Intrigue has the same issue with the A/C compressor bearing and the alternator as well. Might as well buy new ones and replace them before the belt breaks off. I have a spare belt in my trunk for emergencies.
@@sixtyfiveford Thanks! Im stuck in a location with limited tools facing a long road trip back home & don't want to break down en route due to a wobbly pulley! I guess a small punch or chisel would work to peen the metal? Atb
Just wondering if you couldn't use an appropriate sized socket instead of a chisel to drive out the old bearing and seat the new one? Thanks for the video!! I have a 1995 Lumina APV with 3.8 that needs this procedure. Compressor bearing has been talking to me for a while now.
The snap ring holds the bearing on the compressor but there isn't a snap ring to hold the pulley on the bearing. They simply crimped the bearing into the pulley. You don't have to weld it, just simply re-crimp.
Do you have to drain the system first? I don't have the tools to drain it and I was hoping to do it myself. But if I've got to take it to a mechanic I'd also like to know.
Can I loosen that first nut with the belt on (for tension)???? Obviously once I got the nut loosened I'd take the belt off and continue taking the nut off. Just last time I attempted this I couldn't get a firm enough from on the pulley to break that nut
The problem is the belt pulley and the center nut aren't attached unless the clutch is engaged. You could disconnect the clutch wiring harness and connect 12 volts to it and this would manually engage it so you would have a better attempt at loosening the nut.
When I removed the bearing it was completely shot. The center and ball bearings came out, but the outer ring of the bearing stayed inside the pulley. What is a good way to remove the outer ring on the bearing without tearing up the pulley? Thanks for any help.
Hello sixtyfiveford, My 1998 Dodge Ram 1500 with the 5.2 engine just had an issue with the bearing in the clutch, it locked up and the serpentine belt broke. The clutch is sitting at a slight angle and the pulley will not turn at all. Do you think it is worth trying to replace the bearing or do you think there might be damage in other places? The auto parts stores around here don't sell just the clutch or the bearing, you have to buy the whole ac compressor. How do you find the bearing when nobody here sells it? I would like to try to fix this if you think it is not too damaged, what do you think? Thank you.
I would replace just the bearing. Here is a video that spelunkered did on a 98 Dodge th-cam.com/video/R6RGgFTpzWY/w-d-xo.html . You can Google the bearing alone and it should only be a 20 dollar part or the entire clutch assemble should be around 150 online.
How can I find out which puller I need? I believe I need the same one shown in the video but I am not sure. Tried calling multiple parts stores only to be offered a complete puller set since I don't know exactly which one. 1994 Buick Le Sabre Custom
timothy jordan Since I don't do this repair very often I just rented a complete kit that had every puller imaginable. I have Autozone around me that rents specialty stuff like this for free but I believe Orielly's has the same.
Thanks bruh. I appreciate your response. I don't act like I know everything when I know there's plenty of guys with the experience and care to help answer alot of our questions. My next project is setting up my cars Bluetooth capabilities. I'm sure if I run into problems, there's someone with the know how?
+sixtyfiveford hey bruh, I got another good question? It seems the dealer I bought my car from lied. I was told if no warning lights showed up on the dashboard, then everything works good , that basically the Car has no issues? I told him that just because it doesn't show up on the dashboard, it doesn't mean the Car has no problems or issues, the gage could malfunction or be tampered with, right? He still insisted if thetes no warning lights, the cars fine. Ok that was last thurs. For a whole week I hardly rode the car. I put maybe 30-50 new miles since buying last week. Well this morning the engine light came up. ( my luck right) I took it to pepboys werey friends a mgr and a diagnostic check was done. It came back with only 2 codes...#1 a seal leak . #2 head gasket needed replaced and the Car got an oil change. Trust me I have everything documented to get this bums. My friend they went in the dashboard and manipulated the Gage to blank out until I drove around 40-50 miles then the engine light would come on again. My friend said these guys knew how to rig the Gage, and new they were lying to me. This is my question to you, is this possible? Can a knowledgeable mechanic rig an engines Gage to show that nothing is wrong...a blank Gage until you drive the car the amount of miles the Car was tampered for, and wala...the engine lights pop up? Is this possible sixtyfiveford? let me know asap?? Thanks.
Yes. Anytime you clear the codes/reset the computer it will take about 30min to a few hours of driving for the computer to run through all the systems and reshow a code(Check engine light). So it is possible the seller reset the computer right before you came out to look at it and it may have taken this long to show. A lot of Check Engine Light codes are minor issues dealing with the emissions of the car and won't come out and say "head gasket leak" exactly. They will say something else that COULD be a head gasket leak or a few other issues. A head gasket leak will generally front itself with noticeable drive-ability issues like light smoke or overheating. So he can't really tamper with the gauges he just has to reset the computer with a scan tool or by leaving the battery disconnected for a few hours.
airkraft1 Yes, but....... it'll be hard/impossible to find one that they'll sale you. Removing the seal, although fair simple still requires the evacuation of all refrigerant.
Awesome, I suspect equally helpful if your compressor is leaking and you just want to KEEP/extend! life of your GOOD clutch which is not included in, but you must re-attach to, a new compressor...on your workbench first. BTW if your A/C got dye and you have LEAK problems instead of compressor self-destruction/noises, you can see where it leaked (my compressor pulley area glowed like mad in the night/dark, yellow/green in all directions around my pulley). Get a Rayovac 9-LED UV Black Light (e.g. walmart item 001280051885 ten bucks includes 3 AAA...hiding among normal LED mini lights) in flashlight section..was in my walmart's sports section. Toyota dealer quoted me $2800+ for installed: 1100 condenser (now I see NOT leaking), 650 compressor, AND 967 if-seized,-clutch. no thanks to them, thank you to sixtyfiveford!
sixtyfiveford I am retired but I am still so busy I catch up on my videos and tube things during my lunch time. Are you crazy busy or even busier than me???
I only do small engine repair for fun. I decided years ago with small engines to not work on customer machines. Instead I buy all my machines outright and resale them. With virtually the same amount of work I can make 10 times the money. The few customers I do work for are friends and most of the time I do it for free. I figure it more entertaining to watch my hands work and to teach others that to watch television.
It was overkill but this part was never meant to be serviced and simple dimples weren't going to reliably hold. A tack weld though isn't going anywhere.
carlos ventura I did not. If they changed out the compressor it should have a new AC clutch/bearing. If it is grinding more than likely it is defective and any reputable shop will swap it out for free.
@@ethanbittle5063 The clutch disc is external, mounted to the pulley only. You can't get metal particles into the sealed refrigerant side. The only way that happens is if the AC compressor itself internally is wearing, which is pretty common.
People really get scammed alot because when the car gets diagnosed by mechanics then when they go to fixing the car they replace the compressor not the clutch. That follows up to recharging the system which leads to bigger expenses. Some shops will even tell you that the whole system has been contaminated which is a whole bigger ordeal leading to much larger expenses.
Also on my Silverado they make it very hard to buy just the clutch. I had to go to Amazon to find the part. You can’t go to your local parts store to buy the clutch.
that comes when you install the A/C adapter plate, not the bearing. I usually install that part with the engine running and listen to it not to touch the spinning bearing. Its usually very tight.
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Nice...a $20 bearing and a little labor beats a $500+ compressor replacement. Thanks for sharing!!
A LeBlanc Thanks for watching.
Thanks so much. This was the BEST video I watched and I successfully repaired my ac clutch without having to remove the entire unit...your explanation and the way you demonstrated was perfect. Thanks again.
+jose feliz Hey Thanks, I'm glad it helped.
hey, wicked how to.
Do you have the dimensions for the new bearing ? I have the same GM style compressor. I believe its around 60-62mm in diameter (OD).
Super helpful to me. First time I ever came across a crimped in bearing & this video is the only one I have found that gives a solution. Thank you for sharing!
Thank you for the video. I was not aware that bearing came out from the crimp side. BIG time saver!
I did not know those could be changed out, everyone here said you have to change out the whole compressor. This will save a lot of money for people wanting to do the repair by themself. Thanks.
Superiorpowerwash Thanks for watching.
i pulled the pully out of a subaru 08 compressor, replaced the bearing and everything is good, today the bearing started to backout, i will take it off and try to close the lip again with chisel to hold the bearing in place. thanks for all the information bro ✌️🏻
Thanks.
Just pulled our clutch plate to fix this noise.....great vid sir, really helpful.
Thanks, I'm glad it was helpful.
Jfc, thanks man, happy veiwer here! As simple and easy as you made it look. Great to have a $100000 worth of tools, but, when you don't.
That's cool. I was wondering if there was a TH-cam for this. Awesome man and thank you
You did a great job with your video and you were awesome at explaining what you were doing and why.
Something did raise an eyebrow when it cost $20 for the bearing when, in all honesty, Rockauto has the full clutch for 20 something. It would save alot of time and hassle.
It varies wildly with different vehicle makes. Most bearings can be bought for $5-10 if you just pull the part number.
Good tutorial. The wooden plank is a very good idea.
I need to change it on my Peugeot 206 cc 1.6 16v because my electo magnet is dead and the bearing made some noises.
A refurbished compressor costs 200€ (almost 225$) and add 50€ (55$) for the gas reload. The repair parts only cost 50€ (55$) and i don't need to reload the gas.
You can replace the single double bearing with 2 simple bearing.
It's less expensive, you can find it easily and finally it's the same results.
mc6me That saved you some money.
Went to do same thing on my Mazda CX7 AC Clutch - the bearing costs the same as a full clutch kit - so I just purchased the clutch kit, and I have a spare magnetic coil too.
Thanks for
the video. Very helpful! Really liked the Dremel tip.
Good OL fashion mechanic work I love it
Thanks for the vid!! Nice and descriptive!! Gotta replace the clutch bearing on my 89 Silverado
Thanks, I'm glad you liked it.
great video man, I'm going to fix my Buick tomorrow I was scared to try to do it myself but you explain it well with good audio and video quality,new subscriber good job
I'm glad the video was helpful.
Depending on location it can be a lot harder or easier than changing spark plugs. On buick rendezvous the a/c compressor is buried down below the water pump on passenger side. A standard autozone clutch pulley removal tool 27001 was to big so I had to rug something small enough to pull the clutch pulley out.
Good stuff! I've replaced noisy alternator bearings too...definitely worth the extra labor than putting in a junky reman unit. Have you ever seen a failing A/C clutch that turns on intermittently? My guess to the cause would be the stator coil shorting out when it heats up...
motoYam82 It's possible for the coil to short out but it's more likely that the coil or compressor doesn't have a good clean ground or the main positive feed wire has a short in it.
Great video, thanks Sr, I learned a lot from it, This is what TH-cam is supposed to be for.
Azahalia Rodriguez Thanks.
Great video man, I have to do mine this weekend. This is really going to help.
Rather than tack welding the new bearing in place, you can use a center punch to make dimples in the pulley along the outer edge of the bearing race. The raised edge of the dimple will be enough to keep the new bearing in place, but will not present too much resistance when you have to replace the bearing again in the future, whereas the tack welds will need to be ground off. I also recommend using a 40 dollar bearing (such as one made by National Bearing) to ensure you're not changing the bearing again for a few years. Some of those cheaper bearings might last only a year.
Tack welds need to be ground off but so do dimples. I've seen bearings walk over dimples after time and come loose.
@@sixtyfiveford Sorry that's not my experience. I've used center punch dimples for bearings in motorcycle wheels and gear boxes on various types of farm equipment that run at high rpm. Never seen a bearing "walk over" dimples. Never had to grind them off to press out or press in another bearing. I suppose that too few or too many dimples might cause problems, but I just make them about 1-2 inches apart, and that seems to work fine. Granted, I have never replaced an AC clutch pulley bearing, but it seems to be an ordinary bearing. I'm just offering a different suggestion, especially for those who don't have a welder. Readers can decided for themselves.
@@dpspike9368 ive seen the center punch method in many other videos, although have a welder I rather punch them in to make it easier for future replacement.
Really helpful video with all the tips that are required to be successful. Thanks for your great effort!
Hey thanks.
Thanks buddy, super helpful and to the point!
Thanks for taking the time to make and post this video. Clear, concise and very informative.
I'm glad it was helpful.
Love your videos for simple fixes. One suggestion for your tool inventory. If you're going to do bearing swaps, I would purchase a set of bearing drivers. They are for standard bearing sizes, but they make it much easier to drive the bearings out and back in, without possibility of damage. EIS Holden and Essex Brownell are two possible places to get them. As for the lip to keep the bearing retained, a center punch will do the trick nicely. Seat the new bearing, put the tip of the center punch against the inside wall of the journal next to the bearing about every 30 degrees. When you hit the punch, it raises up a small circular area of metal.
Bryon Covell Yeah, bearing drivers have been on the list for a while and I've made a few from plate steel for random jobs.
Thanks. Yeah, I've heard of guys doing this but never seen it done. I have a ton of tools but I try to the keep the repair videos simple and low cost so the average Joe won't be intimidated to try it.
Tell you what, I'll do a video in a few days on the how to. I'll post it on my channel and post here to let you know it's up.
Thanks ....I need to do this. Didn't know how easy is was.
Rich htn Thanks
If you can carefully remove the seal, and the bearing isn't too noisy yet, you can also pack it with fresh grease, and it will be quiet again.
I think you saved me >$200! Thank you! 👌👊👏👍
Awesome.
Thanks dude I gotta do this to my old Chevy before spring
Hey Thanks, I'm glad you liked it.
Smashing tutorial as allways mate :-)
I dont have a welder so i think i would lightly coat the inside with locktite then tap the bearing in. As you said though it isnt likely to move :-)
Ive used the north/south/east/west tapping method for removing and inserting washing machine bearings, you just have to be patient and it works :-)
zx8401ztv I didn't even think of Loc-tite, that would work great.
sixtyfiveford
But your spot on at welding so you used skill, i on the other hand have tryed welding and lets say it made an interesting collection of blobs ha ha :-))
Ah, come on! Even in 2021 this is the ONLY video I can find where the AC Compressor Clutch/Pulley Wheel doesn't just come off with a 10mm nut. Everything was great showing the exact way I had to remove the clutch from a GMC (box truck) and I was waiting for the end to learn how the hack I put it back together, but that part was skipped!!!
I have a 07 Ford Five Hundred and the compressors clutch clanks when I turn on the AC on the Car, is this normal?
nice DIY , i know its 10 years ago but do you still remember the size of the bearing?
Gotta replace the clutch disc and pulley on my car. Although, the clutch disc is still in good shape, it doesn't hurt to replace it in case it has issues. The A/C runs, but not cold enough in 90F+ weather.
Yeah, if the have the disc available it's a good idea.
Rent a free bearing press to get the bearings in and out. Much lower chance of damaging the parts
Simple but effective. Great video
Glad you liked it!
Very helpful...and you just seem like a really cool dude !!!
LA Howard Thanks for watching.
hey - thanks for the video & info!
would you happen to know if this could cause a grinding noise at engine shut down?
when i turn off my 07 yukon - i get a quick noise which sounds like a grinding halt … it’s quick, about 2 seconds. but it sounds almost identical to the noise your bad pulley made when you spun it by hand … but i get no noise as the trucks running. also haven’t engaged the AC system but idk if that matters.
been driven myself nuts trying to figure it out. can’t find anything on the internet. how longs it been since ive said that? i finally found the corner of the internet that doesn’t exist & i need it to before i drive my truck off a cliff due to a 2 second grind.
Good video as usually, but I have to disagree about tack welding on a bearing . . . that's always a bad idea. Even microscopic distortion that you can't see can be enough to significantly shorten the bearing life.
1 or 2 centre punch marks on the housing ID would have been enough to retain the bearing, much easier than tack welding and no distortion to the bearing.
russhellmy There's a difference between tack welding through the bearing and just take welding the outer ring. The ground clamp was set so the electric current never flowed through the bearings.
Loctite 609 is made for cylindrical metal surface retention.
Is there a way to identify what size bearing you need BEFORE you remove the old one? I'd like to order a bearing before I do the work, but I have no idea what size or model number my bearing is on my Subaru (Denso) compressor unit.
Hi Moe. Excellent DIY.
EdOfTheNorth Thank You.
i have a shorty ac delete belt im putting on my 89 lesabre t-type 3800 vin c till i can replace my bad clutch bearing. winter sucks. your video might let me tackle it myself. thanks.
redbuick Yeah, much better to attempt this when it's warm out.
redbuick Yeah, much better to attempt this when it's warm out.
i assume that had the 3.8L motor ..great motor .. my father has the grandprix GTP .. AC clutch bearing still working fine..
my bearing burned out on the ac clutch, i have the same L67 setup, great motor but some typical GM flaws sadly. LIM gaskets, cooling issues, and then minor stuff. But still a great setup vs other motors out there.
My 2001 Oldsmobile Intrigue has the same issue with the A/C compressor bearing and the alternator as well. Might as well buy new ones and replace them before the belt breaks off. I have a spare belt in my trunk for emergencies.
Thanks, I'm glad you liked it.
I don't have access to a welder - I wonder will it just hold in with the press fit - or maybe add some Loctite? Thanks for posting
Loctite or just peen over some metal to hold it.
@@sixtyfiveford
Thanks! Im stuck in a location with limited tools facing a long road trip back home & don't want to break down en route due to a wobbly pulley! I guess a small punch or chisel would work to peen the metal? Atb
@@andrewcheatle4691 Absolutely. You could even create a couple dimples just so when you push the bearing in it's extremely tight.
Question how did you remove the things that holds the bearing. I can’t seem to take it out of the pulley
I ground them off with a drill bit.
Just wondering if you couldn't use an appropriate sized socket instead of a chisel to drive out the old bearing and seat the new one? Thanks for the video!! I have a 1995 Lumina APV with 3.8 that needs this procedure. Compressor bearing has been talking to me for a while now.
Pastor Roland: Insights and Encouragements Yeah, if you have a socket that large.
I got a quote of 700-1100 to replace the compressor at a local shop. I think I will give this a try first.
reno That's at hefty chunk of change for an AC compressor change out. If it's just noisy but still works then definitely swap the bearing.
just curious..... would the snsp ring instead of the spot welds stop that bearing from backing out?
The snap ring holds the bearing on the compressor but there isn't a snap ring to hold the pulley on the bearing. They simply crimped the bearing into the pulley. You don't have to weld it, just simply re-crimp.
Do you have to drain the system first? I don't have the tools to drain it and I was hoping to do it myself. But if I've got to take it to a mechanic I'd also like to know.
No need to drain the system. The clutch bearing is external.
Can I loosen that first nut with the belt on (for tension)???? Obviously once I got the nut loosened I'd take the belt off and continue taking the nut off. Just last time I attempted this I couldn't get a firm enough from on the pulley to break that nut
The problem is the belt pulley and the center nut aren't attached unless the clutch is engaged. You could disconnect the clutch wiring harness and connect 12 volts to it and this would manually engage it so you would have a better attempt at loosening the nut.
Took off the center bolt and the clutch plate still won’t come off?
When I removed the bearing it was completely shot. The center and ball bearings came out, but the outer ring of the bearing stayed inside the pulley. What is a good way to remove the outer ring on the bearing without tearing up the pulley? Thanks for any help.
How about locktite instead of weld? I'd probably fry the rubber seal protecting the bearings?
kjuhler Loc-tite would work but take welds dissipate heat so fast you can touch them instantly.
How you train the pulley to take the bearing out
Excellent Bro..
StrtRodder100 Thanks.
thanks man. You just helped me alot.
I'm glad it was helpful.
I have a jeep liberty and a mechanic change and installed the ac compressor and filled it up with freon two days later is making a grinding noise
Good vid man !! Honda cars suck . They put they compressor in the bottom of the engine bay and there is no room in there
ShawnMrFixit Lee Yeah, I don't know why imports decide to bury them down in there like that.
i so agree man..
Hello sixtyfiveford, My 1998 Dodge Ram 1500 with the 5.2 engine just had an issue with the bearing in the clutch, it locked up and the serpentine belt broke. The clutch is sitting at a slight angle and the pulley will not turn at all. Do you think it is worth trying to replace the bearing or do you think there might be damage in other places? The auto parts stores around here don't sell just the clutch or the bearing, you have to buy the whole ac compressor. How do you find the bearing when nobody here sells it? I would like to try to fix this if you think it is not too damaged, what do you think? Thank you.
I would replace just the bearing. Here is a video that spelunkered did on a 98 Dodge th-cam.com/video/R6RGgFTpzWY/w-d-xo.html . You can Google the bearing alone and it should only be a 20 dollar part or the entire clutch assemble should be around 150 online.
Thank You
Thanks for the video. Good info
Ozzstar Awesome.. Thanks
I can't get my. Bearing off.. It fell apart in the vehicle so it is sitting partial on the pulley and the other on the compressor.. Any ideas???
thanks for sharing uncle!
Thanks.
man, I replaced mine last year, and it just went out on me this morning---had to be towed home
How can I find out which puller I need? I believe I need the same one shown in the video but I am not sure. Tried calling multiple parts stores only to be offered a complete puller set since I don't know exactly which one. 1994 Buick Le Sabre Custom
timothy jordan Since I don't do this repair very often I just rented a complete kit that had every puller imaginable. I have Autozone around me that rents specialty stuff like this for free but I believe Orielly's has the same.
hey sixtyfiveford, is the compressor clutch suppose to make a clanking noise when you first turn on your car ?
Martin Otero Santos Yes.
Thanks bruh. I appreciate your response. I don't act like I know everything when I know there's plenty of guys with the experience and care to help answer alot of our questions. My next project is setting up my cars Bluetooth capabilities. I'm sure if I run into problems, there's someone with the know how?
+sixtyfiveford hey bruh, I got another good question? It seems the dealer I bought my car from lied. I was told if no warning lights showed up on the dashboard, then everything works good , that basically the Car has no issues? I told him that just because it doesn't show up on the dashboard, it doesn't mean the Car has no problems or issues, the gage could malfunction or be tampered with, right? He still insisted if thetes no warning lights, the cars fine. Ok that was last thurs. For a whole week I hardly rode the car. I put maybe 30-50 new miles since buying last week. Well this morning the engine light came up. ( my luck right) I took it to pepboys werey friends a mgr and a diagnostic check was done. It came back with only 2 codes...#1 a seal leak . #2 head gasket needed replaced and the Car got an oil change. Trust me I have everything documented to get this bums. My friend they went in the dashboard and manipulated the Gage to blank out until I drove around 40-50 miles then the engine light would come on again. My friend said these guys knew how to rig the Gage, and new they were lying to me. This is my question to you, is this possible? Can a knowledgeable mechanic rig an engines Gage to show that nothing is wrong...a blank Gage until you drive the car the amount of miles the Car was tampered for, and wala...the engine lights pop up? Is this possible sixtyfiveford? let me know asap?? Thanks.
Yes. Anytime you clear the codes/reset the computer it will take about 30min to a few hours of driving for the computer to run through all the systems and reshow a code(Check engine light). So it is possible the seller reset the computer right before you came out to look at it and it may have taken this long to show. A lot of Check Engine Light codes are minor issues dealing with the emissions of the car and won't come out and say "head gasket leak" exactly. They will say something else that COULD be a head gasket leak or a few other issues. A head gasket leak will generally front itself with noticeable drive-ability issues like light smoke or overheating. So he can't really tamper with the gauges he just has to reset the computer with a scan tool or by leaving the battery disconnected for a few hours.
Do you know if the seal can be replaced on a car a/c compressor shaft
airkraft1 Yes, but....... it'll be hard/impossible to find one that they'll sale you. Removing the seal, although fair simple still requires the evacuation of all refrigerant.
cool I never though to try till I saw your bearing replacement. the refrigerant aspect of the job is the easy part I would suspect
Awesome, I suspect equally helpful if your compressor is leaking and you just want to KEEP/extend! life of your GOOD clutch which is not included in, but you must re-attach to, a new compressor...on your workbench first.
BTW if your A/C got dye and you have LEAK problems instead of compressor self-destruction/noises, you can see where it leaked (my compressor pulley area glowed like mad in the night/dark, yellow/green in all directions around my pulley). Get a Rayovac 9-LED UV Black Light (e.g. walmart item 001280051885 ten bucks includes 3 AAA...hiding among normal LED mini lights) in flashlight section..was in my walmart's sports section. Toyota dealer quoted me $2800+ for installed: 1100 condenser (now I see NOT leaking), 650 compressor, AND 967 if-seized,-clutch. no thanks to them, thank you to sixtyfiveford!
Doug Mildram Thanks man. Ouch, $2800 is steep for an AC system.
very good tutorial........tony
Timetotinker Thanks man
Thanks sixtyfiveford. Do you really need 8 tack welds to hold the bearing in though? Isn't that a little excessive? ;)
GrognardOfXCOM I stopped at 4 and saw they had about 8 metal crimps so I just kept going around.
Good video. You have the same bearing puller I have. Your hammer looks older though.
Bruce
Bruce Pender Thanks.
sixtyfiveford I am retired but I am still so busy I catch up on my videos and tube things during my lunch time. Are you crazy busy or even busier than me???
I only do small engine repair for fun. I decided years ago with small engines to not work on customer machines. Instead I buy all my machines outright and resale them. With virtually the same amount of work I can make 10 times the money. The few customers I do work for are friends and most of the time I do it for free. I figure it more entertaining to watch my hands work and to teach others that to watch television.
sixtyfiveford
What is your full time job?
I do a little bit of everything.
Good video. Ya went too far tac welding, but overall video is thumbs up
It was overkill but this part was never meant to be serviced and simple dimples weren't going to reliably hold. A tack weld though isn't going anywhere.
Loved it!
Did you have to take out the freon?
carlos ventura I did not. If they changed out the compressor it should have a new AC clutch/bearing. If it is grinding more than likely it is defective and any reputable shop will swap it out for free.
Can that worn bearing lock a compresser
Yes
never in my life have I witnessed someone WELD on a bearing...
Well now you have.
LIKED AND COMMENTED AND FACEBOOKED..
Wont this clutch component throw metal in the system?
Nope, because it's all external.
Even on a 06 Silverado if you are familiar with those components?
@@ethanbittle5063 The clutch disc is external, mounted to the pulley only. You can't get metal particles into the sealed refrigerant side. The only way that happens is if the AC compressor itself internally is wearing, which is pretty common.
People really get scammed alot because when the car gets diagnosed by mechanics then when they go to fixing the car they replace the compressor not the clutch. That follows up to recharging the system which leads to bigger expenses. Some shops will even tell you that the whole system has been contaminated which is a whole bigger ordeal leading to much larger expenses.
Also on my Silverado they make it very hard to buy just the clutch. I had to go to Amazon to find the part. You can’t go to your local parts store to buy the clutch.
Good Video, nicely done :D
Thanks.
How you trim that'll take the
Great info awesome
Gerry Reed Thanks buddy
Thanks. very useful
Great, I'm glad it was helpful.
Thanks a lot!
Thanks, I'm glad you liked it.
Thank you so much :)
just did all of this but when reapplying my clutch it was spinning when i turn the ac on but wouldnt turn off when i turn the ac off. plz help sir
When the vehicle is off, can you rotate the center clutch by hand?
Thanks 65!
1fanger Thanks Buddy.
Good job.
wtbm123 Tryin to keep up with all your great repair videos.
Nice job,,
rchopp Thanks for watching.
Thanks you Sir
Hey Thanks, I'm glad you liked it.
Excelente
nice vid thanks.
59chevt Thanks for stoppin by. -Moe
nice fix
RobsPackanShine Thanks
Thanks man!
zzzdogutube Thanks for watchin
It looks like we both need a hydraulic press. Nice work.
***** Yeah, I've been eye balling them for years. It's just the space I'm concerned about. Thanks.
Awesome!
Thanks.
Well you stuffed that bearing by welding it
Nope. It's still going strong. I didn't weld though the bearing.
No setting air gap footage?
that comes when you install the A/C adapter plate, not the bearing. I usually install that part with the engine running and listen to it not to touch the spinning bearing. Its usually very tight.
Welding that bearing in there is poor advice
Not if you know what your doing. No welding current is going though the bearing, nor is virtually any heat.
Who else thinks he sounds like tony stark (Robert Downey)
Untill auto zone gives u the wrong size and it takes u all day for a simple ass bearing
That sucks. I hate when you get the wrong part.
how not to replace a clutch.
How to be a asshole.