Knitting and many crafts like quilting require so much detailed prep work before a project even begins. It's what makes our items so worthy of fair prices. Math was such a hopeless struggle in school. Crafting and pattern math in general has taught me that even math can be achieved when applied to something you love ❤ Thank you for explaining this process, I hope it finds its way to several more people😊
Really interesting. Thank you for breaking it down into easy understandable segments. I actually understood what you said. I've seen other designers try to explain but they get bogged down in detail. Between you and Barbara Benson the light has come on. xxJane
When designing a new pattern, what is your process for picking the right yarn? Walking into a yarn shop is like being a kid in a candy store, how will I know what category of yarn is right for my project? Is it best to start with the yarn size, fiber, or just go for the color you love first?
HI Carissa! Great question! I am a sucker for a good yarn color (so that's often difficult to get past!), but realistically, the best thing to think about first is this: if you like the fit/drape of the sweater in the pattern photos, you should likely find a yarn with a similar composition (fiber and grist)--if it's a wool sweater with lots of cables and you try to knit it in an alpaca yarn, it won't look at all the same; instead, it will drape and lose its shape pretty quickly . . . likewise, if you find an alpaca or cashmere sweater and try to knit it with wool, it will likely be too stiff and won't drape as well. Grist is just a fancy term for the density of yarn. (You can read a great Mason Dixon Knitting post here www.masondixonknitting.com/grist-secret-measurement-substituting-yarn/). Try to find a yarn that is about as dense for a good substitution. Then, once you have these things narrowed down, have fun with color :) Plenty of options out there--and opinions, too! It all depends on what you're going for!
i undertand what you say, but i don't understand how do you calculate where you do the increece or decrease. how do you add 8 stitches in 38 rows? also when you change part of a pattern, how do you make it fit,
Hey, thanks for the useful video. I love the cuffs on the cardigan you are wearing, it looks so delicate. What kind of bind off have you used? What wool, pattern?
Hey don’t know if you’re still answering questions but, When trying to figure out how many increases needed from natural waist to hips, where did you get 185 when you subtracted it from 176?
This is what I don’t understand about measuring a gauge swatch after washing and using those very numbers. If the washed swatch has a smaller gauge than the pre-washed swatch , then you use the numbers in the washed swatch, surely your item is going to end up smaller. The same for if the washed swatch is bigger than the pre-washed swatch; it’s going to end up bigger if you use the washed swatch numbers. I can understand if measurements were taken of both the pre-washed and washed swatches and adjustments were made to allow for differences but to purely go on a washed swatches gauge as the yarn you’re knitting from is effectively pre-washed… Am I overthinking this?
What you are saying would be true if you didn't wash the garment after knitting it. You are measuring how many stitches you need to knit to get a certain measurement after washing. If you measure before washing and knit the garment to fit without it being washed and then the yarn shrinks your sweater will end up a size too small. It doesn't matter if the garment is a bit bigger after it's knitted if it's going to shrink at the end.
Making a drapey cardigan for a large person. Her bust size is about 10 inches larger than the largest size on pattern (bust 51 3/4in.) I only have five skeins of yarn fingering weight-superwash merino silk-550 yds/skein, ( 2750 yds. total) and can't get any more like it. The pattern calls for 1400 yds.sport weight yarn that drapes well after blocking (75%merino, 15%silk, 10% cashmere) on Size 3 & 4 circular needles. I'm making a swatch with a size 10 needle, which will be oversized stitches or can I use a smaller needle? Don't know if this will make the yarn go farther. How can I know how much yarn the sweater will take? The pattern has a collar with elbow length sleeves. and goes just below the waist/hip.
Great question! I would suggest checking out Stashbot for some estimates knitbot.com/stashbot/ OR look back at a few patterns you have in your library in similar weight yarn, as they will give you some good estimates!
@@susanklingenstein4945 ahh, cables and darts are a bit tricky. You could try to add extra stitches (increases) as you go, but that depends on a bunch of factors: whether there are plain stitches, whether you're comfortable adding increases into the cable pattern directly, and whether you can add enough increases to accommodate the larger bust size in the vertical space you have to work with . . .
good content but the camera keeps going in and out of focus which makes the learning experience disruptive when you can't see the clearly the stitch being shown or whatever else being shown.
Knitting and many crafts like quilting require so much detailed prep work before a project even begins. It's what makes our items so worthy of fair prices. Math was such a hopeless struggle in school. Crafting and pattern math in general has taught me that even math can be achieved when applied to something you love ❤ Thank you for explaining this process, I hope it finds its way to several more people😊
Thank you VERY MUCH for this video, Lisa (from Rome, Italy)
Thank you for explaining how to make your own pattern. It was very detailed and helpful.
This was exactly what I was looking for! Thank you so so much!
You broke it down in 14 min so well. Thank you so much it finally ckicked for me😉💗💗
Lots of easy to follow instructions. And a nicely detailed schematic as well. Thank you!
Thank you for a heart wide open, this video is still helping others in 2018
thanks so much for this. the idea of tackling an original pattern became a little less daunting in watching this.
So glad to hear this, Diana!
Just what I needed. I knew that this was possible. Thanks for the book suggestions.
Thanks--I'm so glad it's helpful!
Really interesting. Thank you for breaking it down into easy understandable segments. I actually understood what you said. I've seen other designers try to explain but they get bogged down in detail. Between you and Barbara Benson the light has come on.
xxJane
Wonderful! So glad to hear it! Good luck with your knitting :)
Thank you for sharing, very helpful info. 🌼🌺🌸
Excellent! Thanks for your kind comment!
Thank you very much for this clear video tutorial, that was exactly what I need! I will check your blog for more informations ;)
Thanks so much! Glad it was helpful :)
le blo
When designing a new pattern, what is your process for picking the right yarn? Walking into a yarn shop is like being a kid in a candy store, how will I know what category of yarn is right for my project? Is it best to start with the yarn size, fiber, or just go for the color you love first?
HI Carissa! Great question! I am a sucker for a good yarn color (so that's often difficult to get past!), but realistically, the best thing to think about first is this: if you like the fit/drape of the sweater in the pattern photos, you should likely find a yarn with a similar composition (fiber and grist)--if it's a wool sweater with lots of cables and you try to knit it in an alpaca yarn, it won't look at all the same; instead, it will drape and lose its shape pretty quickly . . . likewise, if you find an alpaca or cashmere sweater and try to knit it with wool, it will likely be too stiff and won't drape as well. Grist is just a fancy term for the density of yarn. (You can read a great Mason Dixon Knitting post here www.masondixonknitting.com/grist-secret-measurement-substituting-yarn/). Try to find a yarn that is about as dense for a good substitution. Then, once you have these things narrowed down, have fun with color :) Plenty of options out there--and opinions, too! It all depends on what you're going for!
very helpful, thankyou x
Excellent video!!! Please keep them coming.
Thanks, Betty!
So helpful...you are a good teacher. (duh) xoj
Thanks, Jenny! It's a hazard of the day job, I suppose!
It would have been helpful to know if you were going to make seams down the sides or knit in the round.
i undertand what you say, but i don't understand how do you calculate where you do the increece or decrease. how do you add 8 stitches in 38 rows? also when you change part of a pattern, how do you make it fit,
I Wana see how the pants turned out!!!!
They were fabulous! You can find them in my Ravelry projects
Hey, thanks for the useful video. I love the cuffs on the cardigan you are wearing, it looks so delicate. What kind of bind off have you used? What wool, pattern?
Hey don’t know if you’re still answering questions but, When trying to figure out how many increases needed from natural waist to hips, where did you get 185 when you subtracted it from 176?
where did the 185 in comparison to 176 cast on number come from?
You are one brave lady. I would offer to help her purchase her pants.. this is way beyond...to ask someone to go to this kind of effort. Geez
labor of love for a friend :)
Thank you for the sharing. I learned a lot from you. Where can I find those books..?
How do you make a standard sweater pattern two sizes smaller please?
Measure from crutch
🌟💖💖💖💖🌟
This is what I don’t understand about measuring a gauge swatch after washing and using those very numbers.
If the washed swatch has a smaller gauge than the pre-washed swatch , then you use the numbers in the washed swatch, surely your item is going to end up smaller.
The same for if the washed swatch is bigger than the pre-washed swatch; it’s going to end up bigger if you use the washed swatch numbers.
I can understand if measurements were taken of both the pre-washed and washed swatches and adjustments were made to allow for differences but to purely go on a washed swatches gauge as the yarn you’re knitting from is effectively pre-washed… Am I overthinking this?
What you are saying would be true if you didn't wash the garment after knitting it. You are measuring how many stitches you need to knit to get a certain measurement after washing. If you measure before washing and knit the garment to fit without it being washed and then the yarn shrinks your sweater will end up a size too small. It doesn't matter if the garment is a bit bigger after it's knitted if it's going to shrink at the end.
Making a drapey cardigan for a large person. Her bust size is about 10 inches larger than the largest size on pattern (bust 51 3/4in.) I only have five skeins of yarn fingering weight-superwash merino silk-550 yds/skein, ( 2750 yds. total) and can't get any more like it. The pattern calls for 1400 yds.sport weight yarn that drapes well after blocking (75%merino, 15%silk, 10% cashmere) on Size 3 & 4 circular needles. I'm making a swatch with a size 10 needle, which will be oversized stitches or can I use a smaller needle? Don't know if this will make the yarn go farther. How can I know how much yarn the sweater will take? The pattern has a collar with elbow length sleeves. and goes just below the waist/hip.
Great question! I would suggest checking out Stashbot for some estimates knitbot.com/stashbot/ OR look back at a few patterns you have in your library in similar weight yarn, as they will give you some good estimates!
I have a pattern I want to use for a small friend with a fairly large bust. Can't figure how to change the pattern.
Hi Susan, You might consider vertical or horizontal bust darts as an addition!
@@knittingthestash It's a cable pattern. If I can figure the increases according to the vertical measurements would that work? I've never done darts.
@@susanklingenstein4945 ahh, cables and darts are a bit tricky. You could try to add extra stitches (increases) as you go, but that depends on a bunch of factors: whether there are plain stitches, whether you're comfortable adding increases into the cable pattern directly, and whether you can add enough increases to accommodate the larger bust size in the vertical space you have to work with . . .
@@knittingthestash Thanks much. A big help!
J'ai rien compris
only makes sleeves video
good content but the camera keeps going in and out of focus which makes the learning experience disruptive when you can't see the clearly the stitch being shown or whatever else being shown.
Thanks for the note--will work on the focus!