*Apologies, had to re-upload as I wanted some improvements. I recently shot, and now edited in, 3rd person perspective scenes, and made a couple of other tweaks* Also, for general info: Dinghy here is a Walker Bay 8. It doesn't come with a stern rowlock hole, hence the DIY wooden module you can see at the back to accommodate the rowlock for sculling. There are some excellent small dinghies out there that have a stern rowlock hole built in, for sculling - the Sportyak 213 and sportyak 245 are nice examples
Nicely done - thanks! We'd just decided that a rowlock will be easier than a notch in our transom, so it's good to see someone using one so successfully 😊
Thanks for the comment! Yes I find the rowlock to be most practical. Exactly same technique. Also allows the oar to hang off the back of boat when at rest, stopped at the rowlock by the collar / sleeve (if your oar has one)
@@CharlieBriggsUK Also, we realised, a rowlock would mean less wear on our wooden transom! Anyway, your demonstration was the best I've seen so far, and I particularly appreciate the effort that went into making the giant demo paddle :-)
@@quentinsf Yes certainly! And would maintain full freeboard on the transom to fend off following seas. Whether the rowlock is metal or plastic, I've found that the best abrasion solution is to protect the sculling oar by having a section of PVC pipe over the chafe area of the oar shaft. The pipe can be split lengthways with a hacksaw, and with two people can be stretched out and introduced to the oar, elastically clamping itself on. That being said, if you only intended on sculling short distances, had a plastic rowlock, and didn't mind a varnish touch-up on the oar every couple of years, you could skip the abrasion protection entirely. I tend to use sculling as much as rowing (on rivers), which is quite extreme, hence my abrasion measures. Is the boat in question the Tideway? Do you have a rowlock hole on transom already? I personally find the standard chandler plastic rowlocks strong enough for everything apart from max-effort stand-up sculling from the burliest of boaters
@@CharlieBriggsUK Ha! I now aspire to be among the burliest of boaters! But yes, it's for the tideway, and we're having some work done on the transom to allow for a better mounting of our electric outboard, so we thought we'd get the carpenter to do something to enable sculling at the same time, so he's going to put in a couple of rowlock sockets (for left- or right-hand use). Our gaff has metal jaws around the mast, and I managed to do a neat and cheap job of adding protection by buying a few metres of leather bootlace which I wrapped around it... perhaps I could do something similar with a rowlock...
@@quentinsf I think your solution will suit the boat's aesthetic better! Good idea having sockets either side. Will holes just be drilled vertically down into the existing transom, or will some extra thickness be added first? Also, have you considered doing any boating down near Surrey (River Wey or Thames) / South coast? Would be awesome to sail with you
Thank you for this demonstration. I recently tried to practice my sculling and I understand the concept but was woefully lacking in technique. I have an 8 ft sculling oar and while I had the wrist movement conquered I failed to move in a figure 8. All my efforts either left me stationary and churning water OR actually propelled me backwards. Now I have the knowledge...just need to put it to work. 👍👍
I'm so glad it helped! When I was starting out, the key things I kept in my mind were: Start with oar blade horizontal. Oar handle rises across the stroke, and smartly drops at the ends. The figure-8 is actually quite a flat one. You can perhaps have your phone at the back of the boat in sight, and have the section of my video playing slowly (0.25 playback speed) where I'm doing the demo with the dummy oar. I think it's best to start out facing back and using 2 hands. Please do let me know how it goes, and ask further Q's if you need to. If you have a link to more info about your sculling oar, I'd love to research it!
Very helpful tutorials. Played it when out on the water struggling & it got me making the right motions, if crudely. Shots of paddle out of the water turned the lightbulb on.
Thanks for this. I have several videos on my channel of camping by way of sailing small boats. I've been using a Hobie 16 lately and plan to try this as a simple backup on no wind days. This was quite helpful.
i always knew this was a traditional chinese way of rowing (i have no idea where or when i learnt this...) watching rctestflight's latest video..., and it reminded me... damn i love this. i havent tried doing it in years... its about feeling those induced vortexes, and not overdoing it....
Thanks for the comment Ken! Take a look at my video ‘cross country running a boat’. At around the 36 second mark, there’s a rear view of the boat. From the angle you can see the whole thing is just a 2x4 type of pine section, taller to the left where it’s doubled up, wood glued. A standard plastic row lock drops into a drilled hole. The whole thing is attached to the boat at 2 points: the far right end has a bolt that goes through the starboard hole in the boat (it has holes both sides as standard). The left side, about a half foot from the end, has steel plates screwed in the vertical fore and aft. These impinge against the fore and aft of the transom, preventing movement in that sense. The rear of the boat transom has a plastic lip you can grab. The rearmost plate we attach ed, has another little plate which goes up behind the lip and pinches it when the nut is done up - this stops the left end of the wood section wanting to rise up. This has proven to work really well, and is a method that doesn’t involve drilling new holes in the boat. If you didn’t care about drilling new holes, you could find a simpler solution to attach a row lock mount
Hi Tom, this sounds great. Will you carry 2 rowing oars, one used for sculling? If so, go for decent sized oars (at least 13.5'). Put a side-slit PVC pipe section over the rowlock/notch contact area of the sculling oar shaft for abrasion protection. If you will carry just one sculling oar, then again go for at least the same length as the rowing ones. Let's say 14' +. You can use an oar length calculator (involving the variables of boat langth and beam) to get a good rowing oar length estimate, then use the same length or greater for the sculling oar. How much space you have aboard for stowage, will influence the decision. I'd go for wood as it floats well, is resistant to dings, and offers more friction to allow PVC collars to grip onto it. Such a long oar can also be used for 'poling' in the shallows, which is a great form of propulsion (you can cap the handle end for damage protection, and grip the blade end when you use it). In terms of blade type, with big oars you can get 'yuloh' type specialist sculling blades, but frankly with your boat I think a conventional symmetrical general purpose rowing blade would be fine (like mine in this video).
@@lindsaygill8739 Hi! I got this Walker Bay 8 on FB marketplace. The tender sounds nice and manageable, but yeh the space can be an issue. It might stern scull better than row? You can scull sitting, standing or kneeling. Just need to sort out a stern row lock. Can practice draw sculling also, like a coracle!
Thanks Archer! May I ask: were you looking on YT specifically for stern sculling information, or did you find this video simply due to being subscribed?
Thanks for the comment. Yes a curved oar can work sufficiently well with practice, but will be best done with two hands to better resist the dynamic twisting forces the blade shape makes when sculling. I recommend doing it with the blade convex to the sky (rainbow shape, viewed from side)
That would work very well with a big Yuloh oar! Much bigger boats get sculled. Using your whole weight against the oar while standing must be satisfying
Oh yes definitely. Traditional Hong Kong and Chinese boats are a great example. You could have a nice big oar on the back of a 22ft boat, maybe even lengthened further with some pvc pipe, and be in a nice comfortable rhythm rocking your whole bodyweight against it slowly
![How to get BACK IN when your Canoe tips over [SOLO]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/lFP1cHGVQkM/mqdefault.jpg)
*Apologies, had to re-upload as I wanted some improvements. I recently shot, and now edited in, 3rd person perspective scenes, and made a couple of other tweaks*
Also, for general info: Dinghy here is a Walker Bay 8. It doesn't come with a stern rowlock hole, hence the DIY wooden module you can see at the back to accommodate the rowlock for sculling. There are some excellent small dinghies out there that have a stern rowlock hole built in, for sculling - the Sportyak 213 and sportyak 245 are nice examples
Nicely done - thanks! We'd just decided that a rowlock will be easier than a notch in our transom, so it's good to see someone using one so successfully 😊
Thanks for the comment! Yes I find the rowlock to be most practical. Exactly same technique. Also allows the oar to hang off the back of boat when at rest, stopped at the rowlock by the collar / sleeve (if your oar has one)
@@CharlieBriggsUK Also, we realised, a rowlock would mean less wear on our wooden transom! Anyway, your demonstration was the best I've seen so far, and I particularly appreciate the effort that went into making the giant demo paddle :-)
@@quentinsf Yes certainly! And would maintain full freeboard on the transom to fend off following seas.
Whether the rowlock is metal or plastic, I've found that the best abrasion solution is to protect the sculling oar by having a section of PVC pipe over the chafe area of the oar shaft. The pipe can be split lengthways with a hacksaw, and with two people can be stretched out and introduced to the oar, elastically clamping itself on.
That being said, if you only intended on sculling short distances, had a plastic rowlock, and didn't mind a varnish touch-up on the oar every couple of years, you could skip the abrasion protection entirely. I tend to use sculling as much as rowing (on rivers), which is quite extreme, hence my abrasion measures.
Is the boat in question the Tideway? Do you have a rowlock hole on transom already? I personally find the standard chandler plastic rowlocks strong enough for everything apart from max-effort stand-up sculling from the burliest of boaters
@@CharlieBriggsUK Ha! I now aspire to be among the burliest of boaters!
But yes, it's for the tideway, and we're having some work done on the transom to allow for a better mounting of our electric outboard, so we thought we'd get the carpenter to do something to enable sculling at the same time, so he's going to put in a couple of rowlock sockets (for left- or right-hand use).
Our gaff has metal jaws around the mast, and I managed to do a neat and cheap job of adding protection by buying a few metres of leather bootlace which I wrapped around it... perhaps I could do something similar with a rowlock...
@@quentinsf I think your solution will suit the boat's aesthetic better! Good idea having sockets either side. Will holes just be drilled vertically down into the existing transom, or will some extra thickness be added first?
Also, have you considered doing any boating down near Surrey (River Wey or Thames) / South coast? Would be awesome to sail with you
Great video! I watched it this morning and was sculling my 23' sailboat this afternoon. I greatly appreciate your instructions!
So great to hear that! Thanks for the comment
Learned this 50 odd years ago in maritime scouts, I totally agreed with your remarks. Pinpoint control and quite a powerful way of manual propulsion.
Very good and comprehensive tutorial. No wasted time. Very impressed.
Thank you for this demonstration. I recently tried to practice my sculling and I understand the concept but was woefully lacking in technique. I have an 8 ft sculling oar and while I had the wrist movement conquered I failed to move in a figure 8. All my efforts either left me stationary and churning water OR actually propelled me backwards. Now I have the knowledge...just need to put it to work. 👍👍
I'm so glad it helped! When I was starting out, the key things I kept in my mind were: Start with oar blade horizontal. Oar handle rises across the stroke, and smartly drops at the ends. The figure-8 is actually quite a flat one. You can perhaps have your phone at the back of the boat in sight, and have the section of my video playing slowly (0.25 playback speed) where I'm doing the demo with the dummy oar. I think it's best to start out facing back and using 2 hands. Please do let me know how it goes, and ask further Q's if you need to. If you have a link to more info about your sculling oar, I'd love to research it!
Brilliant...thanks for the demo!
The best "godille" tutorial ever! Thanks!
Really glad you thought so!
Very helpful tutorials. Played it when out on the water struggling & it got me making the right motions, if crudely. Shots of paddle out of the water turned the lightbulb on.
Very interesting feedback! Great to hear that
Thanks for this. I have several videos on my channel of camping by way of sailing small boats. I've been using a Hobie 16 lately and plan to try this as a simple backup on no wind days. This was quite helpful.
Yess sir. Row row row the boat gently down thr stream. Merrily merrily merrily merrily life is......... idk the rest
i always knew this was a traditional chinese way of rowing (i have no idea where or when i learnt this...)
watching rctestflight's latest video..., and it reminded me...
damn i love this.
i havent tried doing it in years... its about feeling those induced vortexes, and not overdoing it....
Excellent. Best tutorial. Please can you show/tell how you secured your rowlock?
Thanks for the comment Ken! Take a look at my video ‘cross country running a boat’. At around the 36 second mark, there’s a rear view of the boat. From the angle you can see the whole thing is just a 2x4 type of pine section, taller to the left where it’s doubled up, wood glued. A standard plastic row lock drops into a drilled hole.
The whole thing is attached to the boat at 2 points: the far right end has a bolt that goes through the starboard hole in the boat (it has holes both sides as standard). The left side, about a half foot from the end, has steel plates screwed in the vertical fore and aft. These impinge against the fore and aft of the transom, preventing movement in that sense. The rear of the boat transom has a plastic lip you can grab. The rearmost plate we attach ed, has another little plate which goes up behind the lip and pinches it when the nut is done up - this stops the left end of the wood section wanting to rise up.
This has proven to work really well, and is a method that doesn’t involve drilling new holes in the boat. If you didn’t care about drilling new holes, you could find a simpler solution to attach a row lock mount
and on a 22 ft daysailer boat could this be a good way to move in port or with flat seas and no longer smell the smell of petrol?
Thanks for sharing very helpful and great demonstration
Really glad you liked it!
I'm going to try and use this method on a 17' day sailer, what are your recommendation for length of the oar and wood or aluminum oar?
Hi Tom, this sounds great. Will you carry 2 rowing oars, one used for sculling? If so, go for decent sized oars (at least 13.5'). Put a side-slit PVC pipe section over the rowlock/notch contact area of the sculling oar shaft for abrasion protection. If you will carry just one sculling oar, then again go for at least the same length as the rowing ones. Let's say 14' +. You can use an oar length calculator (involving the variables of boat langth and beam) to get a good rowing oar length estimate, then use the same length or greater for the sculling oar. How much space you have aboard for stowage, will influence the decision.
I'd go for wood as it floats well, is resistant to dings, and offers more friction to allow PVC collars to grip onto it. Such a long oar can also be used for 'poling' in the shallows, which is a great form of propulsion (you can cap the handle end for damage protection, and grip the blade end when you use it).
In terms of blade type, with big oars you can get 'yuloh' type specialist sculling blades, but frankly with your boat I think a conventional symmetrical general purpose rowing blade would be fine (like mine in this video).
Keep up the good work sir... 🤟
Where did you get your boat?
I only have a 7 ft tender boat but the inner shell cuts into foot space.
@@lindsaygill8739 Hi! I got this Walker Bay 8 on FB marketplace. The tender sounds nice and manageable, but yeh the space can be an issue. It might stern scull better than row? You can scull sitting, standing or kneeling. Just need to sort out a stern row lock. Can practice draw sculling also, like a coracle!
The best instructions!
Thanks Archer! May I ask: were you looking on YT specifically for stern sculling information, or did you find this video simply due to being subscribed?
@@CharlieBriggsUK I had been looking at sculling videos.
@@archerlane9802 Very interesting! Glad the vid's fulfilling its purpose already!
excellent tutorial.
Glad you liked it, thanks for the comment
Great video, cheers. Can you use a curved bladed oar?
Thanks for the comment. Yes a curved oar can work sufficiently well with practice, but will be best done with two hands to better resist the dynamic twisting forces the blade shape makes when sculling. I recommend doing it with the blade convex to the sky (rainbow shape, viewed from side)
Thank you
Excellent, thanks!
Glad you liked the vid!
ideal, thanks
GREAT! THANKS.
very coooolio...now to scull my 24.5' sailboat... ⛵🏴☠️🖖🤣
That would work very well with a big Yuloh oar! Much bigger boats get sculled. Using your whole weight against the oar while standing must be satisfying
Hi ....how long is this sculling oar?
Hi, it’s 240 cm
Ive done it good!
How many likes for you to play CSGO?
Does it have to be a competitive genre, or could it be just singleplayer / chill multiplayer?
@@CharlieBriggsUK no no, competitive
@@toby_cook oh no, it's been too long 🤣
and on a 22 ft daysailer boat could this be a good way to move in port or with flat seas and no longer smell the smell of petrol?
Oh yes definitely. Traditional Hong Kong and Chinese boats are a great example. You could have a nice big oar on the back of a 22ft boat, maybe even lengthened further with some pvc pipe, and be in a nice comfortable rhythm rocking your whole bodyweight against it slowly