I think it would be best to travel with the valve in storage and not on the can, It will get dirty. And also I would not want my drinking water where it could be tampered with if I leave the van unattended. I'll have a think for some other options that you may like or not. Sorry this sounds like a negative comment it is not meant to be.
It looks pretty handy. I think I'd find some sort of "sock" to cover the valve while on the road, or buy a spare cap for the tank, so you could remove the valve. Just to keep it clean, and/or away from damage potential.
@@samanthabentley9876 Evidently they are/were - it seems as though the new ones are having some hiccups. I can see their utility for a motorcycle (which I think is what they were designed for originally) but on a 4 wheel application they seem overpriced compared to better cheaper options.
It is really great to see that adventure van getting a full test along with all the improvements you have make. It makes me remember my 1979 Ford E-150 4x4 Van with all of it's features comes up way short on the list compared to this newest series. Well at least I did bag two nice size bucks and many memories of hunting trips, fishing trips and camping. Glad to see your getting some great use with the family. Building strong family memories to last a lifetime. Keep them aimed well.
Before retiring I worked at a plant that occasionally required work in areas greater than 100 degrees. We set up water jugs at the entry/exit for these areas. After a while people were getting sick. The problem was traced back to the valves on the jugs. Even though we cleaned the jugs, the valve interiors had bacteria in them. We had to go to disposable water bottles.
I like those rotopacks, but I think I would have stuck with the walmart ones and cut the bars on the top of your cooking storage container where the valve would stick out so that it would fit, just simply because of the water capacity.
Nice mounting system, but i would get an extra closed cap and keep the valve inside the van during driving, usually the back end of vans gets pretty dirty just driving on public road
Nice video. What about the dirt and dust accumulating on the rear end of the vehicle? Don't you have any dirt and dust accumulating on your gear in the back of the truck? A flat rear end vehicle is notorious for accumulating grime. Maybe if you drive only on pristine asphalt roads you will be OK, but when you get on dirt roads, all you gear in the back will be cover with dirt and dust.
Or add foil vanes to keep the streamlines from separating....as my friend Cal Gongwer did on his van side and roof rear corners 30 years ago....tremendous fuel efficiency of course also .....ha
PRO TIP: That spout from the water can WILL fit those gas cans... you can use the seal from the gas spout... BEATS those "safety" spouts! ***Order more "Water" spouts for the other gas cans! Also... use a little food safe grease on those seals from time to time to keep them from tearing.
I am studying engineering at the moment and depending on the stresses it will be undergoing we calculate from 1/2 to an 1/8 of the yield strength for what we are building. The "limit" on a tongue for a truck is more than likely in the 1/6 to 1/5 range .
The minimum “Safety Factor” that I was taught in college here in the UK, for engineering design was 4:1. This was for things mounted on a wall etc. (E.g a wall mounted air con unit). I’ve seen safety factors of 10:1 for overhead applications (e.g a lifting beam mounted on a ceiling). So if the Safe Working Load was 100kg it would have been tested up to 1000kg with a 10:1 safety factor
When I worked in wire rope and rigging fabrication, the design factor (fudge factor) on all of our slings and fitting was either 5:1 or 4:1, meaning either a 20% to 25% overspec to fail. Whenever I’m dealing with things that are designed well, I always keep those numbers in my head.
I recommend keeping those rotopax locks well oiled. I have had two different sets completely seize up. I know a few other people who have had similar issues. Over all rotopax are great. I’ve had them for 4 years.
In engineering we account for fatigue life as well. So force wise it is usually a 20-40% gap for the engineered strength vs the actual rated strength and 10x factor for life. This also depends on the engineering protocol for each company but those numbers are a pretty good rule of thumb
Cool setup! I picked up a few of the lci or scepter military water cans. They’re tough. There’s a spout assembly I picked up, but it’s nowhere near as nice as that custom machined one you have. You might want to figure some kind of bag to cover the spout from dust. Thanks for the video!
Make sure not to freeze your fancy new valve. Food safe plastics never last long frozen. It'll likely stop flowing or get accidentally snapped off/cracked. Always enjoy your vids, especially the 4x4 van stuff. Cheers!
I enjoy watching these videos you do a great job explaining things, most channels dont explain what they are doing you have helped me out a lot thanks and keep up the good work
Cody, Thank you for the review and installation videos. I’m planning on using these on our sailboat. I hadn’t see these until you installed. Thank you again, Jeffrey
That’s a great system thank you for sharing. I guess it would be easy to lengthen the “vent” so it goes up inside above the water line but not sure if that would make much of a difference.
Cody, you got a good chuckle out of me when you got forgot to put the cap on over the spout. I hadn’t even thought about it while you were assembling. Totally something I would have done!! Great video, BTW!
Nice setup. No worries on the load your hauling you have set it up right with suspension and tires. I run load range E on my 1/2 ton Dodge Ram 4x4 it's a truck to be used and worked not to sit and look pretty lol thanks for the video.
Thanks so much for the awesome content Cody! If Jack is really interested in aviation, career-wise the next 10 years will be an amazing time to get into the industry. Think about getting him a small plane to build time in. A Cessna 150/152 will cost you less than 20K and would be perfect for him to build time so that he would hopefully have 500 hours of total time for him to get a job when he turns 18 or 19
Becoming a "stamped" engineering (getting your Professional Engineer license) is a bit more complicated than that but you got the basics down. It's definitely something done post-degree. As for the spigot - I think it's great. Will you be traveling with it attached or in the cabinet? I could see putting it in the cabinet just to avoid mud and what not getting on it. It's also less expensive to replace the plastic spouts than the machined part you bought. I'm loving these van videos! Keep it up!
Hey Cody, have you considered the longer your rear payload is the more difficult to see the side brake lights becomes? Perhaps two flush mounted brake lights 6-10” below the upper door hinges would help? Great video.
Will you be doing anything to mitigate algae growth? Usually you'd want a fully opaque tank for external water storage to stop it going green. Otherwise you have to mess about treating the water with chlorine tablets or some-such. --- You might also want to make a cover for the valve to keep the sun off it. I have what looks to be the same valve on a 5 gal tank and it's gone brittle from being in the sun all the time. Will also keep road muck out as well.
What you call the "fudge factor" we call a Factor Of Safety. As far has how much? That REALLY depends on industry, materials, and risk to human life. Airplanes usually have the lowest at 1.2-1.5 because weight is such a major factor. To compensate the low FOS, analysis are *MUCH* more rigorous and materials held to much higher standards. For your hitch the FOS is likely 3. So it's designed to handle 3x the rated load because we know folks like you will abuse them. Personally I would be comfortable loading to 1.5x the rated capacity on something like that.
If the black box it's mounted to is also secured with a lock, you could attach a small chain inside the box with the key to the rotopax can. That way you'd only need to carry one key.
I really like this! The only thing I would have concern with actually is the dust that we get from behind our vehicles.... I'd go one step further, and put a plastic bag with silicone band over the entire valve assy. Carry a few spares. Will save a LOT of cleanup later. Thanks Cody... great video.
I'm thinking I'm looking at an infomercial.. Replacing $6 water cans with $54 water cans of less than 1/3rd the capacity... It'd be cheaper using bottled water..
I've had 4 Rotopax water storage can's now for at least 8 years got them at a garage sale for 5 bucks a pop a young service man was being transferred to Europe and just wanted to get rid of them they have worked out great we use them on our trips .
Something you may want to try. In order to keep dust out of the spigot, buy a few rubber chair leg caps. They're only a dollar or two for a set so no biggie if you lose it.
Hi. Because you have so much you pack on the rear bumper area. It might be a good thought to mount auxiliary tail/ signal lights above the windows. A safety precaution and ticket repellant.
I was certified for Amusement Device Safety inspection and that was done through the Elevator union here. 15 people can get on an elevator. ..but what are they carrying.... large weight allowance in elevators.
You should look for some sort of a cap for that water valve. even turned down road dust and stuff will blow up in there. Could even make one with a rubber cork just drill it out to fit over that and shove it on.
14:53 On a previous home where we had some remodeling going on, our structural engineer had really added additional "fudgefactor" to the garage part of the building. A 4x8 beam would have sufficed but he called out an 8x12 glulam to be sure it would pass code and we could (jokingly) hang a full 454 chevy engine from the beam. In fact, we could! He didn't want us to ever come back and say the building fell down. We joked the entire house would come down in an earthquake the but the garage would still be standing.
Sounds like he was *WAY* overly cautious because he wasn't used to typical timber design. A timber beam will flex wildly long before it's in danger of breaking, so timber designs are usually governed by deflection and not by load. If a 4x8 beam would pass deflection limits, you still could have easily loaded it with an engine block without it failing, you just might have noticed slightly more sag than usual in the floor above it.
Factor of safety is typically dictated by several factors: Material, expected forces, application, and gut. Most factors of safety for towing down a highway are at least 2.0. Sometimes more for aluminum because it yields far more quickly and dramatically than steel.
Just to clarify for you, it’s a Factor of Safety, and it ranges from item to item. Airplanes are different than bridges which are different from hand tools. And yes, we like to build them in for safety because stuff happens and we are adventurous too haha. I was taught to design things as if your own family were using them. And to get the Professional Engineer stamp, you need a bachelor’s degree, plus your FE (fundamentals exam) certificate to start four years of work underneath licensed professional engineers. After that you have to pass the PE (professional exam). You pass that, then you are a Professional Engineer. I’m currently working on my four years.
Hey Cody, I see you said you have a pump filter for the van. I'd highly recommend the Platypus gravity-fed water filters. I've used mine backpacking and it has always outperformed the pump or squeeze filters in my experiences.
Man jack has it so good. I’ve always wanted to be a pilot but my family never had the resources and now that I’m in my mid 20s i only have time for work and school still. Soon tho, soon.
How does the boxes and bikes effect the visability of the rear lights and numberplate? In the UK you often see cars with bike racks where you cant see the rear lights or numberplate. Would you consider installing high level rear lights??
Awesome video! I wonder if you can leave off the locking bolts that attach the base of the mount to the lower section of rotopax mount so when it is loosened it will pivot from spigot up to spigot down--no need to take on/off. You may not have room to pivot with your setup but some people mount to the side of their vehicle (like me).
This is awesome exactly what I need does anyone know if you can directly mount it I have a Honda Element and want to put it on the tailgate but I don't want to just go drilling holes or would it be better to attach it to something else
"Fudge factor" (Factor of Safety) is typically 2 or 3 ish, 200 to 300% of expected max load. The torque, leverage from the extended arm does look a tad scary on a rough road but compared to a max tongue wt. trailer on a shorter reach, maybe not. If hitch is well made as I expect it will at least bend and droop long before breaking, won't likely fail without plenty of warning.
I agree with everyone else, I would put the nozzle in the box to keep dust, dirt and road salt. You know as well as I do what the backs of cars and trucks look like in the winter time. Also i would suggest to put an auxiliary led brake light/ strip up under the roof rack for the people to see when you have all the stuff hanging off the back side. I'd hate to see all that stuff get banged up.
Don't know if you have the room or not, maybe add the second can on the other side of the kitchen box. Then when you swing the kitchen out to use under the awning your water is on the outside not against the side of the van.
'fudge factor' is 1.7 or 2.7, depending on conditions. That's what they taught me anyways. As an aside, maybe a cover for that valve while driving? Wouldn't want to have to waste precious water just to clean a valve before a cooking session
Looks like a great setup. I have a three of the Coleman 5 gallon carriers, had them for fifteen years at least. They sell replacement valves for them for around $8 and I'm wondering if they would fit that carrier you found.
My cousins are engineers one of them for nasa and i remember him telling me something similar to fudge factor. He was working with semi trucks at the time and they want their number to show as high as possible without people exceeding it too much. 8-12% for something like this is kinda pushing it but it’s there. Also it depends on the terrain if you’re on flat smooth ground it can be there but on a bumpy trashing roads it’s on the lower side.
Your videos are great for ideas. I find it interesting reading the negative comments. No one has to use the same items but can come up with their own ideas or change out items to fit their own budget.
Looks great. I’m just curious, I’m sure you looked at just adding a water line from your inside system. Would you give us your thought on this? I use one of the Walmart jugs for outside water with my motor home, but have been considering plumbing an outside line.
Bennington Camper there is, mostly used to flush out waste tubes after emptying your tanks. I want to put one on the passenger side as that is the side the entry door is on, and where we put the grill.
You could use a water spigot that would go on your house for a garden hose with a check valve if you ever wanted to get away from the plastic valve. Regardless I think it’s a good system. Thanks for sharing as always.
"boy that's expensive for a plastic nozzle" *precedes to buy multiple 80 dollar pieces of plastic* Just thought it was interesting. love your videos keep up the good work.
Your engineering acumen and creativity is so appreciated man. I'm needing an inexpensive container to hold potable water for my motorcycle tail end. Any recommendations? Thanks again.
this is only for weekend trips. why they hell would you waste drinking water washing dishes when you can just wash them when you get home? or just use paper plates. even if they went by the 8x8 rule there would still be a half gallon of water left at the end of the day. and he did say he was going to get another can.
This isn't meant to be snarky at all. The first syllable of Potable rhymes with poe, not pa. It's pronounced poe ta ble. I'm really enjoying seeing the van come along.
@@turnersparadise8368 Honestly, almost no one pronounces potable properly except those of us that process water for a living. I process 4-6 MGD of drinking water.
Curious with all that stuff on the back, is your plate hidden or you just take it off while filming? I have seen more and more people blocking the plate and wonder why they are getting stopped.
Is the plastic on that water can translucent Or does it omit all light? With it being mounted outside like that you may be battling a Algae problem. freezing them full of water would work good For inside a cooler. But if you froze it and put it on your Carrier outside I think you and end up with Quite a mess due to condensation and road dust. But you are right those cans are very nice with a very nice mounting system. Thanks for sharing your ideas with us.
I can’t see the stud the can mounts to, but instead of taking the locking mechanism all the way off and flipping it to get water. Is it possible to just loosen up the mechanism and spin the can itself on the stud to the usable position. Maybe a clearance issue with the door once the can is long ways or just not enough play in the locking portion. Just my thought so mrs. w could possibly just spin it herself, or you or anyone.
I think it would be best to travel with the valve in storage and not on the can, It will get dirty. And also I would not want my drinking water where it could be tampered with if I leave the van unattended. I'll have a think for some other options that you may like or not. Sorry this sounds like a negative comment it is not meant to be.
It looks pretty handy. I think I'd find some sort of "sock" to cover the valve while on the road, or buy a spare cap for the tank, so you could remove the valve. Just to keep it clean, and/or away from damage potential.
@#1 TRACKRECORD what-a-JOKE I trust offroad dirt more than I trust road grime.
@I SURVIVED WWIII with IRAN thank you for your service sir
Yikes, I was just doing some quick math, and this setup is $135 for 2 gallons of water!
And with it being white it will grow algae very quickly in sunlight.
Yeah - Rotopax are way overpriced and evidently suffering from QC issues if the Amazon reviews are any indication.
It looks really high quality though
It costs 121,13€ to drink 2 gallons of beer in a bar in Finland
@@samanthabentley9876 Evidently they are/were - it seems as though the new ones are having some hiccups. I can see their utility for a motorcycle (which I think is what they were designed for originally) but on a 4 wheel application they seem overpriced compared to better cheaper options.
Can you give a link to the adapter! Or at the very least give the name of the seller. I’ve browsed on amazon and can’t find it thank you!
That's high quality H2O!
Say what you will about my personal hygiene, but please don't waste water.
It is really great to see that adventure van getting a full test along with all the improvements you have make. It makes me remember my 1979 Ford E-150 4x4 Van with all of it's features comes up way short on the list compared to this newest series. Well at least I did bag two nice size bucks and many memories of hunting trips, fishing trips and camping. Glad to see your getting some great use with the family. Building strong family memories to last a lifetime. Keep them aimed well.
Before retiring I worked at a plant that occasionally required work in areas greater than 100 degrees. We set up water jugs at the entry/exit for these areas. After a while people were getting sick. The problem was traced back to the valves on the jugs. Even though we cleaned the jugs, the valve interiors had bacteria in them. We had to go to disposable water bottles.
I like those rotopacks, but I think I would have stuck with the walmart ones and cut the bars on the top of your cooking storage container where the valve would stick out so that it would fit, just simply because of the water capacity.
Nice mounting system, but i would get an extra closed cap and keep the valve inside the van during driving, usually the back end of vans gets pretty dirty just driving on public road
You should list a link for the valve adapter, help out the vendor and your audience.
Nice video. What about the dirt and dust accumulating on the rear end of the vehicle? Don't you have any dirt and dust accumulating on your gear in the back of the truck? A flat rear end vehicle is notorious for accumulating grime. Maybe if you drive only on pristine asphalt roads you will be OK, but when you get on dirt roads, all you gear in the back will be cover with dirt and dust.
I wonder if a air deflector that diverts air down from the roof rack would help with that?
Or add foil vanes to keep the streamlines from separating....as my friend Cal Gongwer did on his van side and roof rear corners 30 years ago....tremendous fuel efficiency of course also .....ha
PRO TIP: That spout from the water can WILL fit those gas cans... you can use the seal from the gas spout... BEATS those "safety" spouts! ***Order more "Water" spouts for the other gas cans!
Also... use a little food safe grease on those seals from time to time to keep them from tearing.
I was yelling, PUT THE RING ON! but you wouldn't listen.
I am studying engineering at the moment and depending on the stresses it will be undergoing we calculate from 1/2 to an 1/8 of the yield strength for what we are building. The "limit" on a tongue for a truck is more than likely in the 1/6 to 1/5 range .
The minimum “Safety Factor” that I was taught in college here in the UK, for engineering design was 4:1. This was for things mounted on a wall etc. (E.g a wall mounted air con unit). I’ve seen safety factors of 10:1 for overhead applications (e.g a lifting beam mounted on a ceiling). So if the Safe Working Load was 100kg it would have been tested up to 1000kg with a 10:1 safety factor
When I worked in wire rope and rigging fabrication, the design factor (fudge factor) on all of our slings and fitting was either 5:1 or 4:1, meaning either a 20% to 25% overspec to fail. Whenever I’m dealing with things that are designed well, I always keep those numbers in my head.
Thanks, what’s the link for the part?
I recommend keeping those rotopax locks well oiled. I have had two different sets completely seize up. I know a few other people who have had similar issues. Over all rotopax are great. I’ve had them for 4 years.
In engineering we account for fatigue life as well. So force wise it is usually a 20-40% gap for the engineered strength vs the actual rated strength and 10x factor for life. This also depends on the engineering protocol for each company but those numbers are a pretty good rule of thumb
Cool setup! I picked up a few of the lci or scepter military water cans. They’re tough. There’s a spout assembly I picked up, but it’s nowhere near as nice as that custom machined one you have. You might want to figure some kind of bag to cover the spout from dust. Thanks for the video!
Make sure not to freeze your fancy new valve. Food safe plastics never last long frozen. It'll likely stop flowing or get accidentally snapped off/cracked. Always enjoy your vids, especially the 4x4 van stuff. Cheers!
I enjoy watching these videos you do a great job explaining things, most channels dont explain what they are doing you have helped me out a lot thanks and keep up the good work
Thank you for showing your mistakes as well as your knowledge and wisdom. We lessor mortals appreciate it
I really loved CAP when I was a kid. Learned things I have used every day of my life.
Cody,
Thank you for the review and installation videos. I’m planning on using these on our sailboat. I hadn’t see these until you installed.
Thank you again,
Jeffrey
That’s a great system thank you for sharing.
I guess it would be easy to lengthen the “vent” so it goes up inside above the water line but not sure if that would make much of a difference.
You neglected to add the name of the spigot faucet product. I cannot find it anywhere on Amazon and there were no links in your description.
Cody, you got a good chuckle out of me when you got forgot to put the cap on over the spout. I hadn’t even thought about it while you were assembling. Totally something I would have done!! Great video, BTW!
I for one like what you've done with the van. few things I would do differently but my children are grown . keep up the good work.
Wranglerstar's Top Pick - - - RotoPax Fresh Water Storage Can amzn.to/2YA4tzE
Nice setup. No worries on the load your hauling you have set it up right with suspension and tires. I run load range E on my 1/2 ton Dodge Ram 4x4 it's a truck to be used and worked not to sit and look pretty lol thanks for the video.
Thanks so much for the awesome content Cody! If Jack is really interested in aviation, career-wise the next 10 years will be an amazing time to get into the industry. Think about getting him a small plane to build time in. A Cessna 150/152 will cost you less than 20K and would be perfect for him to build time so that he would hopefully have 500 hours of total time for him to get a job when he turns 18 or 19
Looking great Cody. Have an amazing week, Andreas from Off Grid Sweden 🇸🇪
Jack have fun on your trip to Amsterdam. I live 30 minutes away and I would recommend you to eat some Stroopwafels, they are delicious!
Becoming a "stamped" engineering (getting your Professional Engineer license) is a bit more complicated than that but you got the basics down. It's definitely something done post-degree.
As for the spigot - I think it's great. Will you be traveling with it attached or in the cabinet? I could see putting it in the cabinet just to avoid mud and what not getting on it. It's also less expensive to replace the plastic spouts than the machined part you bought. I'm loving these van videos! Keep it up!
Hey Cody, have you considered the longer your rear payload is the more difficult to see the side brake lights becomes? Perhaps two flush mounted brake lights 6-10” below the upper door hinges would help? Great video.
Will you be doing anything to mitigate algae growth?
Usually you'd want a fully opaque tank for external water storage to stop it going green.
Otherwise you have to mess about treating the water with chlorine tablets or some-such.
---
You might also want to make a cover for the valve to keep the sun off it. I have what looks to be the same valve on a 5 gal tank and it's gone brittle from being in the sun all the time. Will also keep road muck out as well.
What you call the "fudge factor" we call a Factor Of Safety.
As far has how much? That REALLY depends on industry, materials, and risk to human life. Airplanes usually have the lowest at 1.2-1.5 because weight is such a major factor. To compensate the low FOS, analysis are *MUCH* more rigorous and materials held to much higher standards.
For your hitch the FOS is likely 3. So it's designed to handle 3x the rated load because we know folks like you will abuse them. Personally I would be comfortable loading to 1.5x the rated capacity on something like that.
THE VAN KEY WRING IS GETING BIGGER .BUT GOOD IDEA,WELL DONE.
Beautiful, I have the Water Rotopax, now I have a solution =) Thanks for sharing
If the black box it's mounted to is also secured with a lock, you could attach a small chain inside the box with the key to the rotopax can. That way you'd only need to carry one key.
I really like this! The only thing I would have concern with actually is the dust that we get from behind our vehicles.... I'd go one step further, and put a plastic bag with silicone band over the entire valve assy. Carry a few spares. Will save a LOT of cleanup later. Thanks Cody... great video.
Where do you find this valve system? Normally those who post on you tube add a link to find products
I'm thinking I'm looking at an infomercial..
Replacing $6 water cans with $54 water cans of less than 1/3rd the capacity... It'd be cheaper using bottled water..
has anyone seen a link to this threaded adapter? I'm at a loss after searching every combo I can think of
I've had 4 Rotopax water storage can's now for at least 8 years got them at a garage sale for 5 bucks a pop a young service man was being transferred to Europe and just wanted to get rid of them they have worked out great we use them on our trips .
Something you may want to try. In order to keep dust out of the spigot, buy a few rubber chair leg caps. They're only a dollar or two for a set so no biggie if you lose it.
Watch out Cody, I wouldn’t add that extra 2 gal rotopax. I believe that might overload that van!
Hi. Because you have so much you pack on the rear bumper area. It might be a good thought to mount auxiliary tail/ signal lights above the windows. A safety precaution and ticket repellant.
I was certified for Amusement Device Safety inspection and that was done through the Elevator union here.
15 people can get on an elevator. ..but what are they carrying.... large weight allowance in elevators.
You should look for some sort of a cap for that water valve. even turned down road dust and stuff will blow up in there. Could even make one with a rubber cork just drill it out to fit over that and shove it on.
I dont see this on Amazon. Wish you would have included a link.
14:53 On a previous home where we had some remodeling going on, our structural engineer had really added additional "fudgefactor" to the garage part of the building. A 4x8 beam would have sufficed but he called out an 8x12 glulam to be sure it would pass code and we could (jokingly) hang a full 454 chevy engine from the beam. In fact, we could! He didn't want us to ever come back and say the building fell down. We joked the entire house would come down in an earthquake the but the garage would still be standing.
Sounds like he was *WAY* overly cautious because he wasn't used to typical timber design.
A timber beam will flex wildly long before it's in danger of breaking, so timber designs are usually governed by deflection and not by load. If a 4x8 beam would pass deflection limits, you still could have easily loaded it with an engine block without it failing, you just might have noticed slightly more sag than usual in the floor above it.
@@EngNerdGMN 🤓
Factor of safety is typically dictated by several factors: Material, expected forces, application, and gut. Most factors of safety for towing down a highway are at least 2.0. Sometimes more for aluminum because it yields far more quickly and dramatically than steel.
Just to clarify for you, it’s a Factor of Safety, and it ranges from item to item. Airplanes are different than bridges which are different from hand tools. And yes, we like to build them in for safety because stuff happens and we are adventurous too haha. I was taught to design things as if your own family were using them. And to get the Professional Engineer stamp, you need a bachelor’s degree, plus your FE (fundamentals exam) certificate to start four years of work underneath licensed professional engineers. After that you have to pass the PE (professional exam). You pass that, then you are a Professional Engineer. I’m currently working on my four years.
And to get your Structural license you need an additional desire for pain and sorrow to make it through the 16hr test.
Hey Cody, I see you said you have a pump filter for the van. I'd highly recommend the Platypus gravity-fed water filters. I've used mine backpacking and it has always outperformed the pump or squeeze filters in my experiences.
Man jack has it so good. I’ve always wanted to be a pilot but my family never had the resources and now that I’m in my mid 20s i only have time for work and school still. Soon tho, soon.
Looks good. As others have mentioned, I would add a cover to keep the valve from
gathering road grime.
Do you have the name of this to search in Amazon, I couldn’t find it.
we have those valves in Sweden. some times they starts to leak. but they are good.
How does the boxes and bikes effect the visability of the rear lights and numberplate? In the UK you often see cars with bike racks where you cant see the rear lights or numberplate. Would you consider installing high level rear lights??
Awesome video! I wonder if you can leave off the locking bolts that attach the base of the mount to the lower section of rotopax mount so when it is loosened it will pivot from spigot up to spigot down--no need to take on/off. You may not have room to pivot with your setup but some people mount to the side of their vehicle (like me).
Not sure if I missed it and if I did I apologize. Please post a link to where you bought the spout kit.
This is awesome exactly what I need does anyone know if you can directly mount it I have a Honda Element and want to put it on the tailgate but I don't want to just go drilling holes or would it be better to attach it to something else
Are you concerned about the container being white? Usually water containers are blue or black to prevent bacteria growth
"Fudge factor" (Factor of Safety) is typically 2 or 3 ish, 200 to 300% of expected max load. The torque, leverage from the extended arm does look a tad scary on a rough road but compared to a max tongue wt. trailer on a shorter reach, maybe not. If hitch is well made as I expect it will at least bend and droop long before breaking, won't likely fail without plenty of warning.
Need the source for the H2O containers and the nozzle attachment. 'Could put in your Web Store. Thanks.
I agree with everyone else, I would put the nozzle in the box to keep dust, dirt and road salt. You know as well as I do what the backs of cars and trucks look like in the winter time. Also i would suggest to put an auxiliary led brake light/ strip up under the roof rack for the people to see when you have all the stuff hanging off the back side. I'd hate to see all that stuff get banged up.
Don't know if you have the room or not, maybe add the second can on the other side of the kitchen box. Then when you swing the kitchen out to use under the awning your water is on the outside not against the side of the van.
Please share link for valve assembly.
'fudge factor' is 1.7 or 2.7, depending on conditions. That's what they taught me anyways.
As an aside, maybe a cover for that valve while driving? Wouldn't want to have to waste precious water just to clean a valve before a cooking session
Looks like a great setup. I have a three of the Coleman 5 gallon carriers, had them for fifteen years at least. They sell replacement valves for them for around $8 and I'm wondering if they would fit that carrier you found.
Where can I get that valve , please post a link .
Ty
My cousins are engineers one of them for nasa and i remember him telling me something similar to fudge factor. He was working with semi trucks at the time and they want their number to show as high as possible without people exceeding it too much. 8-12% for something like this is kinda pushing it but it’s there. Also it depends on the terrain if you’re on flat smooth ground it can be there but on a bumpy trashing roads it’s on the lower side.
Your videos are great for ideas. I find it interesting reading the negative comments. No one has to use the same items but can come up with their own ideas or change out items to fit their own budget.
Walmart one is 7 gallons, not 6. Just FYI if anyone was interested.
Looks great. I’m just curious, I’m sure you looked at just adding a water line from your inside system. Would you give us your thought on this? I use one of the Walmart jugs for outside water with my motor home, but have been considering plumbing an outside line.
I think if they open the driver side rear door there is a spigot there - showering if I recall.
Bennington Camper there is, mostly used to flush out waste tubes after emptying your tanks. I want to put one on the passenger side as that is the side the entry door is on, and where we put the grill.
You could use a water spigot that would go on your house for a garden hose with a check valve if you ever wanted to get away from the plastic valve. Regardless I think it’s a good system. Thanks for sharing as always.
"boy that's expensive for a plastic nozzle" *precedes to buy multiple 80 dollar pieces of plastic* Just thought it was interesting. love your videos keep up the good work.
Your engineering acumen and creativity is so appreciated man. I'm needing an inexpensive container to hold potable water for my motorcycle tail end. Any recommendations? Thanks again.
As long as I can have water for my Norske Coffee, I appreciate the device.
Cody, you don't have to explain anything to these ASE Keyboard Mechanics. Lol
where i can find the valve kit? anybody have the amazon link?
Wow! What a great summer for Jack! Have you ever considered adopting someone? If you have, I'd like to volunteer for you to adopt me! lol
3 people, washing hands, cooking, drinking, washing dishes - 2 gallons doesn't cut it and $135 isn't enough bang for the buck!
this is only for weekend trips. why they hell would you waste drinking water washing dishes when you can just wash them when you get home? or just use paper plates. even if they went by the 8x8 rule there would still be a half gallon of water left at the end of the day. and he did say he was going to get another can.
Can anyone post an amazon link to the water spout kit??
How about adding additional LED Brake/Tail Lights on the back of those long loads. Connected to your trailer socket, it,s quick and clean.
This isn't meant to be snarky at all. The first syllable of Potable rhymes with poe, not pa. It's pronounced poe ta ble. I'm really enjoying seeing the van come along.
Yet it was so...snarky...
@@turnersparadise8368 Honestly, almost no one pronounces potable properly except those of us that process water for a living. I process 4-6 MGD of drinking water.
Looked in your Amazon store and didn’t see a link for the spout.
The safety factor or "fudge factor" is usually 3x the rated/working load limit.
For mechanical systems, yes. It is higher/lower for other types of systems.
You might want to extend the vent tube with a piece of pvc tubing that reaches near the bottom of the can. It will flow faster when inverted..
Curious with all that stuff on the back, is your plate hidden or you just take it off while filming? I have seen more and more people blocking the plate and wonder why they are getting stopped.
I take it off,
Sould get a plastic cover made what sayes wrangler star with magnents to put plate back on
To put over the plate my bad
Design engineers motto: When in doubt make it stout.
Is the plastic on that water can translucent Or does it omit all light? With it being mounted outside like that you may be battling a Algae problem. freezing them full of water would work good For inside a cooler. But if you froze it and put it on your Carrier outside I think you and end up with Quite a mess due to condensation and road dust. But you are right those cans are very nice with a very nice mounting system. Thanks for sharing your ideas with us.
Im a little confused. Didn’t u put a pretty big water tank in the van already?
I can’t see the stud the can mounts to, but instead of taking the locking mechanism all the way off and flipping it to get water. Is it possible to just loosen up the mechanism and spin the can itself on the stud to the usable position. Maybe a clearance issue with the door once the can is long ways or just not enough play in the locking portion. Just my thought so mrs. w could possibly just spin it herself, or you or anyone.
I'd worry about the valve accidentally turning and leaking all the water out. Perhaps you could get a tight
twisty knob type.
I can not find the link for the valve assembly
It's a works van. It can handle a lot more than that. I think having one on each side would ballance it out. Enjoying the conversion. Quality 😼👍
Hey! So glad to hear Jack is ready for CAP!!!!!! Caitlin LOVES it. She is a 2nd Lt. and boy has it changed her life.