Had this problem for ages. Would'nt shift down to the small cog, worked perfect in the shed but not on the road. I mustve cleaned, sprayed and adjusted it 100 times, drove me crazy. Finally solved it when my pump fell off once when downshifting. I used to jam my pump between the crossbar and bottom bracket down the downtube and it was that limiting the deraileur travel, nothing wrong with the shifter. Course in the shed the pump was off to work on the shifter. Just shows you. Love your vids RJ, theyve helped me a lot.
RJ The Bike Guy. Ever since I started looking for cheap bikes to restore. I just came across this issue! It's a shame you can't just fix it... now to hunt for a cheap front derailleur. Thank you!
Not the first time I've ran into your channel for exactly the same problem. Was trying to find a diagram showing the spring... but you told me what I was thinking! Thanks from 2020!
Just spotted this on my bike, purchased over the weekend. Glad to see it's a common issue. Headed to the bike shop for an inspection tomorrow. Nice video and camera work.
Must be all the time I"ve watched your videos has paid off... Even before you started describing the situation I was thinking it must have to do with the spring not forcing it to the small chainring... thanks for all your informative videos....
RJ does it again. I immediately identified the loosy-goosey Sora front derailleur guide on the bike I bought today and subsequently found the spring in the same condition as in the video but I would have wasted a lot more time tomorrow morning trying to find a non-existent anchor point for the spring so, thanks.
good video , this was just the problem i was having , after hours of trying to get my derallieur working properly came across this video and found the answer, have also found a very effective and simple solution for this, i just took the derallieur of and doubled 5 elastic bands round it so that it springs back down haha , 4 dollar it coast me rather than 65, now am shifting like a shifty mans shifty bits haha
Same thing happened to me with Tiagra 3x9. To fix it, I unbolted the front derailleur from the seattube and cable but did not release it from the chain. Went to the supermarket and bought a lobster. Ate it. took the rubber bands around its claws and wrapped both bands 2 times each around the 2 metal pivot arms that move the cage. They come closer together to move the cage inwards and separate to move the cage outwards so this gave it the nice inward tension it needed. Hooked it back up to the bike, and it shifts perfectly. Rubber bands will get old and lose elasticity so couple months down the road if it isn't strong as it was now, I'll have to eat another lobster and replace the bands.
THANK YOU. Was going crazy trying to figure out why my Sora triple wasn't shifting down. Same exact problem. And thanks for making the video short and concise!
Thank you, my problem exactly and your video is spot on. Also as you say the entire derailler is now toast because of it 🤦🏻♂️ engineers, gotta love-em.
Thanks for the video. This confirmed what I thought (loose spring) and that the only repair is a new derailleur 😭. As a suggestion, It would have been useful to show a derailleur with the tab still in place, so that we know what is missing :)
Hi thanks for this vid. Got a close loook at the front derailier on your bike to realise there is a screw missing on mine. I’ve since fixed the issues I’ve got smooth changing happening. Many thanks
Thanks for this video. I just had this same problem occur today and this video confirm my findings. I wasn't sure is this was a normal occurrence with this derailleur
Exact same thing happened to me about 7 miles into a 24 hour race last year. I ended up moving the chain by hand to the small chainring and riding the next 61 miles to where a mechanic thought he fixed it. I stayed in the big chainring the rest of the race and the mechanic at my LBS showed me the 10 year old deraileur spring was loose.
You can fix such issue by bending the tab of the spring in a way that it holds onto the inner swing arm of the front derailleur, but you have to remove the spring first by removing the rivet that holds the spring and if you have to put the spring back in you have to push the modified spring onto the front derailleur with the spring tabs both held onto the inner swing arm and the cage (might take a bit of struggle) then inserting a bolt small enough to fit through the hole (the bolt will replace the rivet that holds the spring) and locking it with a nut. It's quite tiresome but if you have a prized or a rare front derailleur this method might worth giving a shot.
Thanks. I guessed right. You confirmed what I suspected. Will try to wiggle with the spring and let you know. 90% sure it won't work but hey, since it's already toast.
had the same problem on my scott speedster s50 with the same FD-3304. seems to be a known issue with the series. I thought to drill and put a screw but that will leave you like a mm of material on the derailleur body which I did not feel too much safer. The solution was to buy a new one! Have a great one;)
Soooo useful! I have the same sora and the same exact problem. So happy that you posted this and saved me tons of time in trouble shooting. I wouldn’t of thought about a tab like that being the problem but your a valor for us all in helping share the knowledge. Keep up the great videos. I love them!!
Same problem, I have a tiagra that is very similar, but instead of a spring it has a sort of plastic bushing that semi turns. I wounder if it had a spring underneath it that broke.
Hello RJ im a viewer from UK love your videos..made me go out & buy a ok'ish used bike so I can tinker & hopefully fix it up! Im a complete noob bike mechanic! But your videos are interesting & inspiring that made me spend 60 quids on a 2nd hand bike 😷 My question to you is if installing both a front & rear derailleur which is better to install 1st? If possible can you pls make a video installing them. Thnx so much RJ
I think if you have older Sora, and this hasn't happened yet... it very likely will, sooner or later. Just noticed this while refurbishing my daughter's Trek 1000T last night. It had been in storage for 6 years. So the tab had to break off just while sitting. Probably will replace it with a 105T instead of Sora.
I've got a bike with a Tiagra FD. I'll keep an eye out for that problem. On another note, I watched your remove tight pedals video. I've got pedals that only have a 6mm allen hole and NO 15mm slots. They are VERY TIGHT and I use a long 6mm allen wrench to remove them but have to use an adjustable wrench at end of allen wrench as a breaker bar. Luckily I've never snaped the wrench. My question is does a 6mm/8mm allen adapter exist, 6mm male end/8mm female end, so I can use an 8mm allen wrench? This would be OPPOSITE of the typical 6mm/8mm adapters. If not any OTHER ideas for a 6mm allen wrench that you can apply MAJOR torque to? Also would putting a thin washer btw. the crankarm and the pedal make removing the pedals easier? O.C. I grease the pedal threads completely before installing the pedals, and pedals screw in w/o any binding. I don't torque the pedals super tight either. My theory is since I'm a strong heavy rider at 6'4", 210 lbs and I'm a masher vs spinner averaging about 75 rpm cadences flats, 55 rpm climbs, I'm torquing the pedals super tight just riding the bike (tried the 'spinning' fad, just not working for me, been cycling before clipless pedals and index shifting. All the old school cyclists mashed and were plenty efficient). All my bikes' pedals and freewheels are a real PIA to remove. To steal your phrase you use in your videos alot "that sucker is tight .... There I got it!!!" Thanx for any adice RJ.
Yeh, I need to buy a set of those. I ordered the Park HT-6 and 8 wrenches. I'll see how they work. I doubt a reverse 6/8mm allen adapter exists. Would be great for my compact travel bike tool kit. Btw. glad to see you didn't end up in hospital tinkering with your medieval torture device (DIY seatpost remover tool). Was kinda worried you'd pull a 'Home Improvement' with that contraption RJ.
My front derailleur stays in the 2nd gear. Won't shift up or down. I've been waiting for you to do a video on this problem. Was hoping it was just an adjustment problem.
Yeah probably best to replace it. However it would be interesting to see how one might fix the derailleur, but it probably wouldn't be worth the time and effort.
RJ, do you have a video on rear derailleur skipping or jumping back and forth? It's on a touring Fuji bike 3*9 middle ring and about the middle of the cassette, I need help. Thanks love your videos.
I have an issue where when the front derailleur cage is too far outwards when in the biggest chain ring and smallest cog on cassette. I have tried angling the cage back to reduce the gap but issue seems to be that the limit screws aren't moving the derailleur at all. On closer inspection they aren't very long and not pushing on the derailleur even when screwed into the maximum. I have ordered some longer hex bolts m4 20mm to see if this changes things. The cage moves in and out when shifting so can't be the cable or mech seized up.the limit screws aren't labelled but I'm presuming if they aren't hitting the top of the mech then they won't be pushing It in either direction.
@@RJTheBikeGuy i sussed it out.i was getting mixed up about the function of limit screws.i was thinking they control whether the cage moves in and out by pushing on the mech once screwed in.Now i know they only are there to stop the mech making the chain falling off when in the most extreme gears.I unscrewed both of them as this was restricting movement of the cage then adjusted the cable tension using the barrel adjuster after making sure cage was parallel with the chain.All sorted now.Another bike lesson learned.
Hi RJ, Here is an interesting problem I am having. Yesterday I cleaned my entire drive train. In doing so, I removed the front Tiagra 4700 front derailleur to clean and lube the pivot points. After reinstalling it, the front derailleur will not shift up to the large cog. The limit screws are fine, trust me I have adjusted until I'm blue in the face. I should clarify that the front will shift up, but the force needed makes it completely unusable. One other thing, with the cable disconnected from the derailleur, it moves smooth as butter. On the other end, and with the cable disconnected, the shifter moves normally and if I hold the cable with my fingers while shifting, the cable is pulled and released as I use the shifter and I don't feel any binding in the cable/housing. This is a 2X system. Please let me know if you have any suggestions. I'm stumped. In case this matters, the derailleur is a bottom pull
@@RJTheBikeGuy I've watched your videos for years and feel pretty confident that the reinstall was fine. I even found some documentation from Shimano and followed it to the letter. Same problem
@@johngreene6783 I can't tell you without working on the bike. If it worked before, and doesn't after you removed it, then I am guessing mounting, or adjustment.
probs a long shot considering how small the components are in the shifter, but would you happen to know if theres a way to repair those shimano sti shifters? my right hand one on my 9 sp tiagra is completely buggered, only shifts like 4 clicks. so my roadie has been sitting collecting dust for a couple of months. Only parts ive been able to find is a full gear set and it would cost more than my bike is worth!.
I bet it's just dirty with sticky, hardened grease--that's common on these and trigger shifters. Lube the mechanism liberally with a thin oil, like Tri-flow...pay special attention to the ratchet pawls.
Thanks so much for this video. I was cleaning out the garage got to the point that to make some decisions about bikes that were going to stay or go. Hand't ridden my Felt 90 in 7 years and remembering it having some issues but was hazy on what they were. Figuring I might keep it around as zwift bike, I was encouraged by what I saw in terms of the rear mech and shifting, ran into this exact same issue. I knew it was a spring tension issue but the break was so clean on the metal tab, I was confused as to how it was supposed to operate. Looked online and found very little until noticed SORA in very small letters. Once I included that in my search it came right to your video. Save me a lot of time trying to figure it out and now I know it's shot. Do you remember what front mech you ended up replacing it with?
Some specific designs have inherent flaws. Like the left Shimano 105 (St-5600) shifter was prone to breaking. 105 shifters before and since didn't have the same flaw. Not sure if it extended to the Ultegra 6600 shifter which was very similar. I don't think so. I have no idea of which specific models of Sora/Tiagra FDs have this flaw. Could be just the one generation.
FWIW, I have a Sora FD-3500 that has 19000 miles of pretty frequent use. It's definitely newer than what you have (that looks like the FD-3303, from 2002?), but seems like mostly the same design. But maybe they'd beefed up that tab by that point; Shimano does actually seem to care about fixing flaws in their later generations. In any case, I'd imagine that the newish Claris FD-2403 would be fine. They're dirt cheap.
Can any 1 help me .... I have an MTB 21 gears ( 3 - 7 ) My chain touches my front delailleur when it is on second ( middle gear ) on front and 3,4 on back delailleur . Can you help me with it ...
My thinking exactly. Plus if one part within the derailleur failed already usually more are going to follow. It's always nice to start with a whole new assembly.
Anyone have experience finding a replacement for the Shimano FD-4403 (9 Speed Derrailleur) for a 2006 Specialized Allez Vita. For example the MicroShift R539 ?
1x is a weird fad currently I don't know how less of a total gear range/bigger jumps between gears, no weight saved(huge cassettes) could be so popular. World cyclocross champion Wout van Aert uses a 2x on his CX bike. Except for possibly mountainbikes there is no reason to downgrade to 1x
Goriaas I use 1x but with a normal sized 9 speed cassette since I only ever used the middle gear up front. It really helps with ground clearance and there is no noise from the front derailleur. 1x also has better chain retention
If that new derailleur is built in the same way, it could also break in the same way. That screw without doubt costs less than $14 and if it breaks off it's easily replaceable. Instead of jimmy rigging I would call it as fixing a design problem.
It depends on where the "tab" is located. is there enough room to install it, enough metal for it to be strong and secure. Otherwise it's a waste of time.
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Hi there. I now this post is old but.... do you know if you can just replace the spring? Struggling to find a replacement for a specific bike.
Had this problem for ages. Would'nt shift down to the small cog, worked perfect in the shed but not on the road. I mustve cleaned, sprayed and adjusted it 100 times, drove me crazy.
Finally solved it when my pump fell off once when downshifting.
I used to jam my pump between the crossbar and bottom bracket down the downtube and it was that limiting the deraileur travel, nothing wrong with the shifter. Course in the shed the pump was off to work on the shifter. Just shows you.
Love your vids RJ, theyve helped me a lot.
Perfect. This is the exact issue I was running into. Thanks for the simple and concise video.
RJ The Bike Guy. Ever since I started looking for cheap bikes to restore. I just came across this issue! It's a shame you can't just fix it... now to hunt for a cheap front derailleur. Thank you!
Not the first time I've ran into your channel for exactly the same problem. Was trying to find a diagram showing the spring... but you told me what I was thinking! Thanks from 2020!
Ran into this same issue last night with a friend's bike. Thank you so much for the information and the answer.
The spring was loose on my wife's 2008 Trek 2.1 WSD. It has a Shimano Tiagra. This video was helpful in confirming the problem. Thanks!
Just spotted this on my bike, purchased over the weekend. Glad to see it's a common issue. Headed to the bike shop for an inspection tomorrow. Nice video and camera work.
Must be all the time I"ve watched your videos has paid off... Even before you started describing the situation I was thinking it must have to do with the spring not forcing it to the small chainring... thanks for all your informative videos....
RJ does it again. I immediately identified the loosy-goosey Sora front derailleur guide on the bike I bought today and subsequently found the spring in the same condition as in the video but I would have wasted a lot more time tomorrow morning trying to find a non-existent anchor point for the spring so, thanks.
Just tried adjusting my front derailleur and discovered that tan broken on mine as well! Thanks for the confirmation!
Thanks RJ, that just helped a lot about 4 years after this posted.
good video , this was just the problem i was having , after hours of trying to get my derallieur working properly came across this video and found the answer, have also found a very effective and simple solution for this, i just took the derallieur of and doubled 5 elastic bands round it so that it springs back down haha , 4 dollar it coast me rather than 65, now am shifting like a shifty mans shifty bits haha
Same thing happened to me with Tiagra 3x9. To fix it, I unbolted the front derailleur from the seattube and cable but did not release it from the chain. Went to the supermarket and bought a lobster. Ate it. took the rubber bands around its claws and wrapped both bands 2 times each around the 2 metal pivot arms that move the cage. They come closer together to move the cage inwards and separate to move the cage outwards so this gave it the nice inward tension it needed. Hooked it back up to the bike, and it shifts perfectly. Rubber bands will get old and lose elasticity so couple months down the road if it isn't strong as it was now, I'll have to eat another lobster and replace the bands.
Thanks, this was exactly what I needed, without having to watch a 20 minute video!
Just ran into this issue today while attempting to fix my friend's Trek 1500. Seems like you've already made a video for every problem I encounter.
THANK YOU. Was going crazy trying to figure out why my Sora triple wasn't shifting down. Same exact problem. And thanks for making the video short and concise!
Thank you, my problem exactly and your video is spot on. Also as you say the entire derailler is now toast because of it 🤦🏻♂️ engineers, gotta love-em.
Man, this saved me a ton of time. This is the exact problem I have, and more I can skip fiddling with it to try to fit the spring back into place.
Exactly my issue too. Tried to fix it, couldn't do it. Shopping for a new derailleur. Thank you for this video.
Thanks for the video. This confirmed what I thought (loose spring) and that the only repair is a new derailleur 😭. As a suggestion, It would have been useful to show a derailleur with the tab still in place, so that we know what is missing :)
Dude I've been fixing my friends bike for two days and trying to diagnose this. Thank you!!!
Thanks, this was helpful. Just pulled my old bike out and had this problem. I knew the spring was loose and now I know why.
thanks man, i was fiddling with this new used bike for an hour before i suspected the spring. thanks for the confirmation!
Thanks for the vid. Exact same issue just happened to my Tiagra front. It lasted 19 years though so that's acceptable. Thanks for saving me time. :)
That's exactly what just happened to my 2007 podium 2. Thank you for the video
I can't wait to see the video where you went ahead and fixed it...
Hi thanks for this vid. Got a close loook at the front derailier on your bike to realise there is a screw missing on mine. I’ve since fixed the issues I’ve got smooth changing happening. Many thanks
I should be studying for my project management midterm
Good luck!
Damn this guys voice does my head in
Thanks for this video. I just had this same problem occur today and this video confirm my findings. I wasn't sure is this was a normal occurrence with this derailleur
Exact same thing happened to me about 7 miles into a 24 hour race last year. I ended up moving the chain by hand to the small chainring and riding the next 61 miles to where a mechanic thought he fixed it. I stayed in the big chainring the rest of the race and the mechanic at my LBS showed me the 10 year old deraileur spring was loose.
My probably identically!
Thanks... new detailer hunt begins.
You can fix such issue by bending the tab of the spring in a way that it holds onto the inner swing arm of the front derailleur, but you have to remove the spring first by removing the rivet that holds the spring and if you have to put the spring back in you have to push the modified spring onto the front derailleur with the spring tabs both held onto the inner swing arm and the cage (might take a bit of struggle) then inserting a bolt small enough to fit through the hole (the bolt will replace the rivet that holds the spring) and locking it with a nut.
It's quite tiresome but if you have a prized or a rare front derailleur this method might worth giving a shot.
Thank you! I thought I was going crazy and missing something obvious!
Hello, I'm having problem with my same sora front derailleur, maybe u remember that does 2 bolts do at the end of video ?
Thanks, bro ! I have the same issue and was wondering whether is was repairable. What a waste ! Which front derailleur did you finally end up with ?
Thanks a lot! I had the exact same issue with my old Shimano Tiagra. Bad news is I have to replace it now... :-)
Thanks ... That's what happened to my Tiagra too.Thanks for video very helpful!
Thanks. I guessed right. You confirmed what I suspected. Will try to wiggle with the spring and let you know. 90% sure it won't work but hey, since it's already toast.
Just ran into this on my old 2005 Cannondale T800 touring bike with a Tiagra FD that I was trying to clean up to sell. Crap. But thanks for the video!
Very useful. I have exactly the same issue with exactly the same mechanism.
Damn you always get the best bikes, most of them are vintage
Excellent. I saw the loose spring, but would have wasted a great deal of time looking to repair a defective derailleur.
had the same problem on my scott speedster s50 with the same FD-3304. seems to be a known issue with the series. I thought to drill and put a screw but that will leave you like a mm of material on the derailleur body which I did not feel too much safer. The solution was to buy a new one! Have a great one;)
Thank you. That's exactly the problem I have too. What derailleur did you use to replace the broken one?
I also have same issue and would like to have recommendation for new derailleur. Thanks
fascinating, I wouldn't have thought that. I've got Ultegra though, but I'll check. I've looked at gunk and limits to no avail.
Soooo useful! I have the same sora and the same exact problem. So happy that you posted this and saved me tons of time in trouble shooting. I wouldn’t of thought about a tab like that being the problem but your a valor for us all in helping share the knowledge. Keep up the great videos. I love them!!
I used to have a Trek 1000. Great bike!!!
Same problem, I have a tiagra that is very similar, but instead of a spring it has a sort of plastic bushing that semi turns. I wounder if it had a spring underneath it that broke.
Thank you for the video, I have a Tiagra front derailleur and the same thing happened to mine. Now I know
Just found the same thing. Thanks for the details.
I have same problem except my spring is good!! Could it be the cable tension??
I have a 2004 Trek 1000, also with the original chainset. Same thing happened to me. The Claris 3x8 FD works as a replacement.
Thanks for the video..exact same prob on my Surely LHT..going to try to fix it!
Just drill tiny hole in derailleur and put free spring tip in this hole :)
Thanks, I will be looking for a new derailer too.
Hello RJ im a viewer from UK love your videos..made me go out & buy a ok'ish used bike so I can tinker & hopefully fix it up! Im a complete noob bike mechanic! But your videos are interesting & inspiring that made me spend 60 quids on a 2nd hand bike 😷 My question to you is if installing both a front & rear derailleur which is better to install 1st? If possible can you pls make a video installing them. Thnx so much RJ
I install both, adjust the rear, then adjust front. I do that in a bunch of videos. th-cam.com/video/IEL7pLwTZw0/w-d-xo.html
@@RJTheBikeGuy Cheers RG! I'll check them out now for sure
same issue i have thank you for posting!
thanks this was exactly my problem
Thank you very much. This is exactly what I was facing.
Same issue, same derailleur, same troubleshooting. I was hoping you’d say at the end “just twist the spring to reattach”. Oh well.
Very intriguing; thanks for sharing this RJ! :)
Thank you. I have this exact issue. New derailleur time I guess.
I have the opposite problem. The cage won't move to the right and I can't shift the chain to the larger front sprocket
I think if you have older Sora, and this hasn't happened yet... it very likely will, sooner or later. Just noticed this while refurbishing my daughter's Trek 1000T last night. It had been in storage for 6 years. So the tab had to break off just while sitting. Probably will replace it with a 105T instead of Sora.
Check to see if the spring is missing an end and or loose.
I've got a bike with a Tiagra FD. I'll keep an eye out for that problem. On another note, I watched your remove tight pedals video. I've got pedals that only have a 6mm allen hole and NO 15mm slots. They are VERY TIGHT and I use a long 6mm allen wrench to remove them but have to use an adjustable wrench at end of allen wrench as a breaker bar. Luckily I've never snaped the wrench. My question is does a 6mm/8mm allen adapter exist, 6mm male end/8mm female end, so I can use an 8mm allen wrench? This would be OPPOSITE of the typical 6mm/8mm adapters. If not any OTHER ideas for a 6mm allen wrench that you can apply MAJOR torque to? Also would putting a thin washer btw. the crankarm and the pedal make removing the pedals easier? O.C. I grease the pedal threads completely before installing the pedals, and pedals screw in w/o any binding. I don't torque the pedals super tight either. My theory is since I'm a strong heavy rider at 6'4", 210 lbs and I'm a masher vs spinner averaging about 75 rpm cadences flats, 55 rpm climbs, I'm torquing the pedals super tight just riding the bike (tried the 'spinning' fad, just not working for me, been cycling before clipless pedals and index shifting. All the old school cyclists mashed and were plenty efficient). All my bikes' pedals and freewheels are a real PIA to remove. To steal your phrase you use in your videos alot "that sucker is tight .... There I got it!!!" Thanx for any adice RJ.
Maybe hex sockets
www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/ASIN/B001UF7X5Y/ref=nosim/youtube25-20
Yeh, I need to buy a set of those. I ordered the Park HT-6 and 8 wrenches. I'll see how they work. I doubt a reverse 6/8mm allen adapter exists. Would be great for my compact travel bike tool kit. Btw. glad to see you didn't end up in hospital tinkering with your medieval torture device (DIY seatpost remover tool). Was kinda worried you'd pull a 'Home Improvement' with that contraption RJ.
I ran into that once ended up bending the spring over the side and work just fine
Was hoping for a quick explanation, and that is exactly what the video provided. Too bad there isn’t a quick fix…
My front derailleur stays in the 2nd gear. Won't shift up or down. I've been waiting for you to do a video on this problem. Was hoping it was just an adjustment problem.
Isolate the issue. Shifter/Cable/Derailleur. Then fix it.
Yeah probably best to replace it. However it would be interesting to see how one might fix the derailleur, but it probably wouldn't be worth the time and effort.
easy man 5 doubled up rubber bands did the job for me :O
RJ, do you have a video on rear derailleur skipping or jumping back and forth? It's on a touring Fuji bike 3*9 middle ring and about the middle of the cassette, I need help. Thanks love your videos.
th-cam.com/video/VzrpC7jrz8U/w-d-xo.html
RJ The Bike Guy thanks again.
Good information, thanks.
I have an issue where when the front derailleur cage is too far outwards when in the biggest chain ring and smallest cog on cassette. I have tried angling the cage back to reduce the gap but issue seems to be that the limit screws aren't moving the derailleur at all. On closer inspection they aren't very long and not pushing on the derailleur even when screwed into the maximum. I have ordered some longer hex bolts m4 20mm to see if this changes things. The cage moves in and out when shifting so can't be the cable or mech seized up.the limit screws aren't labelled but I'm presuming if they aren't hitting the top of the mech then they won't be pushing It in either direction.
th-cam.com/video/zuFmkF5FoDY/w-d-xo.html
@@RJTheBikeGuy i sussed it out.i was getting mixed up about the function of limit screws.i was thinking they control whether the cage moves in and out by pushing on the mech once screwed in.Now i know they only are there to stop the mech making the chain falling off when in the most extreme gears.I unscrewed both of them as this was restricting movement of the cage then adjusted the cable tension using the barrel adjuster after making sure cage was parallel with the chain.All sorted now.Another bike lesson learned.
Great device
Hi RJ,
Here is an interesting problem I am having. Yesterday I cleaned my entire drive train. In doing so, I removed the front Tiagra 4700 front derailleur to clean and lube the pivot points. After reinstalling it, the front derailleur will not shift up to the large cog. The limit screws are fine, trust me I have adjusted until I'm blue in the face. I should clarify that the front will shift up, but the force needed makes it completely unusable. One other thing, with the cable disconnected from the derailleur, it moves smooth as butter. On the other end, and with the cable disconnected, the shifter moves normally and if I hold the cable with my fingers while shifting, the cable is pulled and released as I use the shifter and I don't feel any binding in the cable/housing. This is a 2X system. Please let me know if you have any suggestions. I'm stumped. In case this matters, the derailleur is a bottom pull
My guess is didn't remount it exactly how it was. th-cam.com/video/zuFmkF5FoDY/w-d-xo.html
@@RJTheBikeGuy I've watched your videos for years and feel pretty confident that the reinstall was fine. I even found some documentation from Shimano and followed it to the letter. Same problem
@@johngreene6783 I can't tell you without working on the bike. If it worked before, and doesn't after you removed it, then I am guessing mounting, or adjustment.
Hé just had the same problem while travling. Did you find a replacement for it ? I had a 3x9 spd
I just bought a similar road front derailleur, but a different model.
can weld that side of the spring to the derailer. all it needs is to spring back on other side.. if that works!
@Mukesh Pandya: yeah, 'cept welding removes the springiness from steel
And you can't weld steel to aluminum.
I'd like to see you fix it. :)
probs a long shot considering how small the components are in the shifter, but would you happen to know if theres a way to repair those shimano sti shifters? my right hand one on my 9 sp tiagra is completely buggered, only shifts like 4 clicks. so my roadie has been sitting collecting dust for a couple of months. Only parts ive been able to find is a full gear set and it would cost more than my bike is worth!.
th-cam.com/video/tFmqV4klzaY/w-d-xo.html
Check ebay.
I bet it's just dirty with sticky, hardened grease--that's common on these and trigger shifters. Lube the mechanism liberally with a thin oil, like Tri-flow...pay special attention to the ratchet pawls.
How much did you pay and is the frame carbon seems that frame had Ultegra at one time ?
It's aluminum. It came with Sora. archive.trekbikes.com/au/en/2004/trek/1000#/au/en/2004/trek/1000/details
Thank you Great video
Ah, this might be the exact reason why mine is stuck in the upper gear as well since a week or two.
I have a Claris groupset, but the front derailleur acts like a 3x which is really annoying tbh, any ideas how to mend this issue.
Huh?
RJ The Bike Guy
When I change crank there's a phantom gear between each step lol
Isn't it trimming you're describing? That's how it suppose to be.
michwoz
No it's only a 2x 8 Claris groupset and my left lever has a phantom gear between each change
2x front shifters have "half-gears" like that to stop chain from rubbing front derailleur cage in extreme gear positions.
you had issues with the back derailleur ?
Not like this.
@@RJTheBikeGuy Just got my old sora group fixt today . 105 is compatible ?
Showing the new one and how things sit would have been a lot better.
I see a sticker on that frame that says Cahaba Cycles Birmingham, Alabama. That place is awesome and my bike is from there
I bought it at a thrift store in New York. So a long way from there. :D
What model derailleur did you replace it with?
A Shimano 105 FD-5500. th-cam.com/video/zuFmkF5FoDY/w-d-xo.html
Thanks so much for this video. I was cleaning out the garage got to the point that to make some decisions about bikes that were going to stay or go. Hand't ridden my Felt 90 in 7 years and remembering it having some issues but was hazy on what they were. Figuring I might keep it around as zwift bike, I was encouraged by what I saw in terms of the rear mech and shifting, ran into this exact same issue. I knew it was a spring tension issue but the break was so clean on the metal tab, I was confused as to how it was supposed to operate. Looked online and found very little until noticed SORA in very small letters. Once I included that in my search it came right to your video. Save me a lot of time trying to figure it out and now I know it's shot. Do you remember what front mech you ended up replacing it with?
I replaced it with a Shimano 105 FD-5500 front derailleur.
@@RJTheBikeGuy thanks!
Well, I doubt that lower-class Claris would not have the same issue. Also, this model looks quite old, maybe newer generations do not have this issue?
Some specific designs have inherent flaws. Like the left Shimano 105 (St-5600) shifter was prone to breaking. 105 shifters before and since didn't have the same flaw. Not sure if it extended to the Ultegra 6600 shifter which was very similar. I don't think so. I have no idea of which specific models of Sora/Tiagra FDs have this flaw. Could be just the one generation.
FWIW, I have a Sora FD-3500 that has 19000 miles of pretty frequent use. It's definitely newer than what you have (that looks like the FD-3303, from 2002?), but seems like mostly the same design. But maybe they'd beefed up that tab by that point; Shimano does actually seem to care about fixing flaws in their later generations. In any case, I'd imagine that the newish Claris FD-2403 would be fine. They're dirt cheap.
It's an FD-3304.
please tell me this can be repaired
Replace it.
Can any 1 help me ....
I have an MTB 21 gears ( 3 - 7 )
My chain touches my front delailleur when it is on second ( middle gear ) on front and 3,4 on back delailleur . Can you help me with it ...
Probably cable adjustment, but could be how the derailleur was installed. th-cam.com/video/zuFmkF5FoDY/w-d-xo.html
It's possibile to replace spring from cheap front derailleur but its hard. So mayby you will try :)
I think they are riveted in there for good.
Good drill bit and go on
Or maybe just spend a few bucks and buy a new derailleur...
OFC but where is the pleasure of repair :)
My thinking exactly. Plus if one part within the derailleur failed already usually more are going to follow. It's always nice to start with a whole new assembly.
Well, I'll be damned! I have this exact problem on a Tiagra Triple!!
Can't you just tack weld it?
Anyone have experience finding a replacement for the Shimano FD-4403 (9 Speed Derrailleur) for a 2006 Specialized Allez Vita.
For example the MicroShift R539 ?
Find a Shimano 9 or 10 speed road triple. www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/ASIN/B003RLHDUO/ref=nosim/youtube25-20
Time to make a 1x
At some point, but not this bike.
1x is a weird fad currently I don't know how less of a total gear range/bigger jumps between gears, no weight saved(huge cassettes) could be so popular.
World cyclocross champion Wout van Aert uses a 2x on his CX bike.
Except for possibly mountainbikes there is no reason to downgrade to 1x
Goriaas I use 1x but with a normal sized 9 speed cassette since I only ever used the middle gear up front. It really helps with ground clearance and there is no noise from the front derailleur. 1x also has better chain retention
I've got a similar set up on my commuter bike. But for a recreational road bike(or gravel) I'd never get a 1x over a 2x.
Goriaas yessir I agree. I would go 2x for road or gravel but I will always have 1x for my mountain bike
Time for a new derailleur
why not drill a little hole, tap it and put a screw with loctite in it as an replacement.
Or just spend $14 for a brand new, not jimmy rigged derailleur.
If that new derailleur is built in the same way, it could also break in the same way. That screw without doubt costs less than $14 and if it breaks off it's easily replaceable. Instead of jimmy rigging I would call it as fixing a design problem.
I had this problem and had to replace it. I liked the old one a lot more. I think I'll dig it out and give this fix a try.
It depends on where the "tab" is located. is there enough room to install it, enough metal for it to be strong and secure. Otherwise it's a waste of time.