@@jandane6830 You don't like Steve Perry? I think his videos are excellent and he has all the amazing photos to prove he knows what he's doing. I don't know another wildlife photographer who is as consistently high quality.
Steve apparently has no axes to grind in the photography world and it is soooo pleasant to hear pure helpful tip’s regardless of your platform. He Ida truly amazing.
Thanks again, Steve. My best tip - which I often forget to abide by myself - is to not start "chimping" the shots I just took. If I ask myself "Did I get the shot?!? Did I get the shot?!?", I then starting reviewing on my camera. I have then often missed a good chance of a shot somewhere else (usually with BIFs). I then mentally kick myself and think of "what might have been". Chimping is useful if you're shooting something like a wedding. But wildlife .... keep it to a minimum. Cheers, Jack.
Like anything else, I think of it as a tool. For example, when knocking down ISO, I do chimp and make sure I have a sharp image before going to a lower shutter speed. However, normally this is with a relatively stationary animal. You do have to be careful no matter what though - things can happen fast. One thing I tell my workshop participants who are chimping with an active animal is that whatever you captured is what you captured. Since the animal is active, you can't reshoot what you just shot, so there's no need to chimp.
Thank you again Steve. I am a Nikon Pet photographer and apply everything you give us to running and jumping domestic animals. Fortunate and appreciative of how much applies. You are the best!
Thanks Steve! I bought your new "Birds in Flight" ebook and although I've been shooting wildlife for about 25 years, I still enjoyed it and learned a thing or two!
Thanks Steve, I have watched this video before, but it is as good every time. I use it as a help before I got out shooting. Not every time, but now and then.
When I was in Alaska, I used the track before in range method to get the shots of puffins. They would make rounds off of the cliff, grab fish, and swing by on a lap before going back to the cliff. I felt like I was skeet shooting with the tracking. But since I was on the 200-600, I’d start at 200 to get them in my viewfinder quickly, then zoom in to get them to fill the frame for tracking.
Great tips, especially taking longer bursts and progressively lowering the iso by reducing the shutter speed, I've been really amazed with some of the fairly static bird shots I've got at less than 1/100 sec handheld with a 500mm f4 lens and birds in flight less than 1/1000 sec. Of course the hit rate goes down but who cares once a few shots have been banked at higher shutter speeds. Wish I'd been given this advice years ago, it's a game changer !
Thanks for the amazing video Steve! Buying your ebook 'Secrets to Stunning Wildlife Photography' was the best thing I've done to improve my photography!
Your content is great. I must say after seeing so much redundant wildlife shooting content, I was truly surprised (and thrilled) that these tips (despite being good common sense) were all novel and insightful.
Excellent video Steve. I learn so much from your wisdom and truly appreciate you taking the time. I look forward to further educational videos. How about one for the 'first time on safari'? Take care and stay safe. David
I use to shoot film up until 20 years ago. I've been in digital photography for about 3 years now. Some of those things in the video I learned the hard way but others I did not know all. Thanks for the tips Steve!
Great tips, and great video presentation. Some mirrorless have near or far focus settings for custom setups. One thing I found very helpfull is to set back button AF to the near focus, and one of the front buttons to far or background AF. This comes in so handy and speedy when faced with difficult focusing situations . Especialy when time is of the essence. Thanks for providing your insight. I've been a fan of your techniques as it really improved my techniques in the field. Keep up the great work.
My god how powerful this first tip has been. How to get this muscle memory. I found doing exactly what Steve suggested - sitting with the camera at all times and practicing was extremely helpful. These ideas can be so powerful. I sit with it every Saturday during tv football games and practice .
Great tips! Implementing the training suggested in tip #1 right now! Would have served me well last weekend while taking photos of slow swimming otters I saw a Bald Eagle flying down the channel... totally spaced that I was shooting 1/1250 and even though the eagle was "right next to me" only one photo was reasonably sharp. Had I been practicing, I would have looked, noticed the shutter speed, and twisted the dial. I'm sure the extra speed would have helped me get several more sharp (there were many shots in the burst that were in focus, just motion blurred). Also throwing in there randomly turning off the camera, to get the finger muscle memory to "scan" for the on position as I'm raising the camera to my eye.
Ten great tips Steve!!! I really appreciated Tip #1 because I have five cameras that I use routinely for mostly nature / wildlife here on my plantation in southeast Georgia and God knows I’ve missed some great opportunities because I failed to check settings before a shot!!! You continue to produce great videos. Thanks for sharing your knowledge, expertise and experiences.
LOL, I've had the camera about 24 hours now, so it'll be awhile :) I like to put the camera through its paces, so probably not till feb / march. But it should be pretty good :)
use quiet continuous and burst with the d850 in lowlight conditions if handholding.. the gentle mirrorslap equals alot of sharp images compared to continous high
Point 1: that's why i love and prefer to have the top lcd, I can check the setting even before by watching inside the viewfinder. Too many cameras are not using it anymore, but it's essential most of the time, sometimes when you watch the settings inside the viewfinder it's too late to adjust them if not the proper ones.
Hi, wonderful videos! I noticed you are shooting Sony A1 that's out of reach for most people. What budget Sony option would you recommend for those who can only afford a camera in 700-1000 range?
Thanks :) I'll let you know when I figure it out :) (just selling pics is rough, most of us of educational stuff - and I actually enjoy that more anyway)
Pushing on the tripod is not just for correct tightening of the legs. Setting the feet into sand, soft ground, or vegetation will ensure a steady camera base. Pressing down on the camera and lens may be required or hanging weight from the tripod.
Thanks for another wonderful video, Steve. It would be great if you could give some tips on what AF Area modes you use for different settings. ex. mammals, birds in flight, small birds etc.
Thanks - I do have a lot of that spread out throughout my videos, but putting them together might make a good video. The biggest trick is that there are a lot of different camera brand and AF modes :)
Great video as usual! I know you shoot all the big 3 and favor Nikon. However I’d love to see something on your Sony settings etc. I’m new to the wildlife photography and am committed to Sony right now. I have 3 of your books in my basket as we speak and look forward to some great reading. Thank you
Thanks so much! I'm probably going to do a Sony settings video eventually. Right now, I'm working on the a1 review (it's huge as you can imagine) and after that I have a few trips. I'll get it in there eventually though - I've had a lot of requests :)
Testing the waters when it comes to stopping down both shutter speed and iso is tricky. The problem is, the subject you're shooting (a cute lil finch) isn't going to sit on a branch limb and wait for you to fiddle around with the camera settings on your camera. The bird presents itself for a few seconds and then it's gone. This is why it's so important to make sure you already have the camera settings set to the closest possible in order to hopefully get a good shot the first time!
Yup, that's why I say: "When you're facing a relatively stationary subject in low light, ISOs are often a problem." "Stationary" being the operative word :) And: "The way this usually works is by starting with a wide open lens and using the slowest shutter speed that you think will safely net you a sharp image." Just like you mention, make sure you have the camera set to get the shot. It's only after that that I say to start going slower. So, in your case, if the bird does fly, you still have the shot.
Can you do a video on how to find wildlife? I go out all the time and never seem to find any big mammals or birds of prey. Do I need to get deep in and camp? Am I moving wrong? Anything would be helpful
Regarding tip #3... Probably the best thing about digital photography... it costs nothing to take heaps of photos. I do a lot of macro photography with focus stacks of up to 30 or more images and you only need to have the bug move in 1 or 2 photos for the stack not to work so it's great not to have to be paying for photos :))
Awesome tips Steve! I have been watching you for some time now and have learned so much from you. I currently use the D500 and the D850. I have the 500PF and the Tamron 70-200 G2 lenses. I was wondering which body would you pair with what lens for wildlife photography? I love the D850 with the 500PF for resolution, but I feel taking landscapes suffers when it comes to using the wider lens on the D500. Any suggestions? I'm not one to usually want to switch lenses all the time lol.
Hi Steve - Great video & thanks . Here's a D850 AF question for you - My focus point selector on both the joystick & multi-selector has frozen up . Any suggestions for getting it unstuck ? Thanks for your consideration & reponse .
Yes !!!! - Worked Thanks so much for your time to respond to my head slapper question . Also for your vids over the years , from which I've learned so much . Now to wonder how that button got to the lock position.....
Here's a check your settings tip that doesn't show in the viewfinder. I had been working on BIF shots and set my shutter to release without focus. I didn't change it back before the next day and ended up blowing what would have been a great set of common Yellowthroat shots. Compounding the problem was having my focus limiter switch set to 10 meters to infinity while the birds was just inside that range. What a let down to get home and realize all the images were to soft to use. If my shutter release had been set to only release when focus is obtained I would have know to switch the limiter. Lesson learned.
Just remember if you are going to do a shadow pull be aware of if your camera has a dual gain sensor. Sony sensors for example like the A9, A7RIII/IV etc have different gain at around ISO640 and it's far better to pull shadows at IS640 than ISO400 say. Basically what this means is the read noise is far lower at ISO640 than ISO400 an underexposed ISO640 shot will look a lot cleaner when shadow exposure is boosted than for an underexposed ISO400 shot. So the lowest ISO is not necessarily the best. Check the web to see if you have a dual gain sensor in your camera. Note some older sensors it won't matter, they aren't dual gain, but your ability to lift shadows even at low ISO's is quite limited, eg any Canon camera before the 5D mark IV/1DX mark II had rubbish shadow dynamic range.
Another great video Steve! Thank you! A quick question: are you ever shooting Nikon mirrorless or are you sticking to DSLR Nikon + Sony mirrorless these days? If you are shooting Nikon z7 which model is that and how's AF keeping up?
For the past five months or so it's been 99% Sony because I'm doing a review for the a1. The Z cameras are, at the moment, just too far behind Sony. I'm hoping that changes soon. As for AF areas, when I do shoot the Z madras for action, I still like the Wide (S) area the most :)
tip #3 4:20 my concern here is that one can get sloppy and just take bursts all the time, hoping for a good shot in there, rather than focussing one what actually makes a good shot. Good set of time though - many thanks!
Since anyone going for top quality photos would be shooting in raw, wouldn't crop mode be kind of pointless since the raw file would still contain the entire sensor worth of information? The way I save space is by saving full resolution raw + the smallest size jpeg. If I need a full res jpeg, I can export that after editing the raw file, but the small jpeg is convenient for quickly looking through the photos or having something to upload at web size before you have time to edit them.
This isn't condescending to anyone. But after learning to use the focus ring, my natural mental ability to predict, I have never been happy with autofocus.
I thought tip #1 was going to be, get an A1 /600 f4 combo! Gutsy move shooting at 1/160 with a long lens. Exposure delay with wildlife, = not me. Maybe if the subject is asleep. Haha,Thanks for the vid.
Yeah, I can't pull that one off very often, but every now and then you get a subject that's just sitting there (birds usually, although I've used it with elk that were just lying down).
Agree on exposure delay, but I have shot down to around 1/40 (with 600F4 + teleconverter) and when the bird stayed motionless, something they only do very briefly, I got sharp images. What helped was I knew the bird would sit on the perch at some point which allowed me to have everything pre-focused and set up for the light and I used a remote trigger so no vibration at all.
@@johndoe-nh9sh Dang it! I meant to put a little asterisk note about a cable release in the exposure delay part of the video and completely forgot. Yup, cable release totally works. I wish YT still let you put in notes after the video was up...
@@johndoe-nh9sh Yep. Cable release! If a bird is perched on pole or something and my camera is on a tripod, I cut fatigue by taking my eye away from the viewfinder. I then watch using my normal vision and push the button when i need to. If I was really organised, I also use a pair of binoculars. Cheers.
Interestingly, even with 20 shots, if the success rate is 10 %, there is a 12 % change that there will be no sharp photos in these 20. To lower it to 5 %, you will need a burst of 29, and for 1 % a burst of 44.
This guy is TH-cam gold, no BS, straight to the point and you learn every time from every video he does. The latest book is top drawer as well 👍
Thank you so much!!
@@backcountrygallery kp
Agree.
@@gyozakeynsianism bs
@@jandane6830 You don't like Steve Perry? I think his videos are excellent and he has all the amazing photos to prove he knows what he's doing. I don't know another wildlife photographer who is as consistently high quality.
Steve apparently has no axes to grind in the photography world and it is soooo pleasant to hear pure helpful tip’s regardless of your platform. He Ida truly amazing.
The man is pure genius !! Listening to him and following his methods have truly upped my skills by manifolds.
This is basically perfect advice. I have been following these for ever. I am so Happy You are sharing it.
Excellent Steve and a brilliant invaluable aide memoir. Cheers mate can’t wait for the next set.👍
Great tips Steve. Thanks and keep them coming.
Thanks again, Steve. My best tip - which I often forget to abide by myself - is to not start "chimping" the shots I just took. If I ask myself "Did I get the shot?!? Did I get the shot?!?", I then starting reviewing on my camera. I have then often missed a good chance of a shot somewhere else (usually with BIFs). I then mentally kick myself and think of "what might have been". Chimping is useful if you're shooting something like a wedding. But wildlife .... keep it to a minimum. Cheers, Jack.
Like anything else, I think of it as a tool. For example, when knocking down ISO, I do chimp and make sure I have a sharp image before going to a lower shutter speed. However, normally this is with a relatively stationary animal. You do have to be careful no matter what though - things can happen fast. One thing I tell my workshop participants who are chimping with an active animal is that whatever you captured is what you captured. Since the animal is active, you can't reshoot what you just shot, so there's no need to chimp.
I really appreciate that you share these tips Steve - Thank you.
Thank you again Steve. I am a Nikon Pet photographer and apply everything you give us to running and jumping domestic animals. Fortunate and appreciative of how much applies. You are the best!
Thanks Steve! I bought your new "Birds in Flight" ebook and although I've been shooting wildlife for about 25 years, I still enjoyed it and learned a thing or two!
Thank you so much!
Excellent advice. No surprise there! Another great video Steve.
By far best tips, lessons and reviews on internet. At least for Nikon gears. Thank You! Happy New Year!!!
As always, great stuff from a master of the art (and techniques, technology and craft) of photography! Thanks Steve.
Thank you Steve, some great gems of information in there that will increase my success rate!
Great video, thanks. Good to see you have the energy back after Covid 19, no long term effects hopefully.
Wonderful practical tips ..👍👍👍
What a video! It's really a concentrated wisdom
Thanks Steve, I have watched this video before, but it is as good every time. I use it as a help before I got out shooting. Not every time, but now and then.
Great tips. Thank You
When I was in Alaska, I used the track before in range method to get the shots of puffins. They would make rounds off of the cliff, grab fish, and swing by on a lap before going back to the cliff. I felt like I was skeet shooting with the tracking.
But since I was on the 200-600, I’d start at 200 to get them in my viewfinder quickly, then zoom in to get them to fill the frame for tracking.
I have read or seen about doing that before but haven’t tried it as of yet. It sounds like it should work & makes sense. Thanks for the reminder.
Great tips, especially taking longer bursts and progressively lowering the iso by reducing the shutter speed, I've been really amazed with some of the fairly static bird shots I've got at less than 1/100 sec handheld with a 500mm f4 lens and birds in flight less than 1/1000 sec. Of course the hit rate goes down but who cares once a few shots have been banked at higher shutter speeds. Wish I'd been given this advice years ago, it's a game changer !
Thanks for the amazing video Steve! Buying your ebook 'Secrets to Stunning Wildlife Photography' was the best thing I've done to improve my photography!
I have been doing photography for a long time (1977) and I generally never get any benefit from "tip videos". But I picked up 3 from this one!
Excellent video Steve. Great tips. 👍 👍 👏
These are the best tips I've ever heard of after many years of photographing! Thank you
Much better Than easy suggestions. Very useful
Really good information Steve! Thank you!
Excellent tips, thanks Steve.
Also, I always keep BOTH eyes open when shooting photos.
Your content is great. I must say after seeing so much redundant wildlife shooting content, I was truly surprised (and thrilled) that these tips (despite being good common sense) were all novel and insightful.
Thanks Steve, great content like always.
Excellent video Steve. I learn so much from your wisdom and truly appreciate you taking the time. I look forward to further educational videos. How about one for the 'first time on safari'?
Take care and stay safe. David
Very interesting and so good, as usual!
Your tips are always good, thanks again.
I use to shoot film up until 20 years ago. I've been in digital photography for about 3 years now. Some of those things in the video I learned the hard way but others I did not know all. Thanks for the tips Steve!
These are actually ghood tips, not the basic one I used already. Thank you!
Oh the tripod leg, done that one. Great video thanks.
They are decent tips. Sick of seeing the same ones on every search. Very helpful
Absolutely perfect info 🌟
Great advice, thank you. Following your tips really has helped me.
Great tips, and great video presentation. Some mirrorless have near or far focus settings for custom setups. One thing I found very helpfull is to set back button AF to the near focus, and one of the front buttons to far or background AF. This comes in so handy and speedy when faced with difficult focusing situations . Especialy when time is of the essence. Thanks for providing your insight. I've been a fan of your techniques as it really improved my techniques in the field. Keep up the great work.
Great. Thank you very much dear master.
love the new setup
Great tips - thank you.
Excellent content as always!! Thank you!
Quit impressive, thank you for sharing.
Wonderful as always. Thanks
My god how powerful this first tip has been. How to get this muscle memory. I found doing exactly what Steve suggested - sitting with the camera at all times and practicing was extremely helpful. These ideas can be so powerful. I sit with it every Saturday during tv football games and practice
.
Great tips Steve! Thanks!
Thank you Steve sir 😊, lots of love from India.
Hi Steve. Great video as usual. And I just have bought your book "Secrets To Stunning Wildlife Photography". Thank you.
Awesome, thank you!
Thanks Steve for the video. The shadowed subject shooting strategy gave me a new idea.
As someone who shoots mostly in tropical rainforest, the struggle of tip #8 is real haha. Great video!
Great tips! Implementing the training suggested in tip #1 right now! Would have served me well last weekend while taking photos of slow swimming otters I saw a Bald Eagle flying down the channel... totally spaced that I was shooting 1/1250 and even though the eagle was "right next to me" only one photo was reasonably sharp. Had I been practicing, I would have looked, noticed the shutter speed, and twisted the dial. I'm sure the extra speed would have helped me get several more sharp (there were many shots in the burst that were in focus, just motion blurred). Also throwing in there randomly turning off the camera, to get the finger muscle memory to "scan" for the on position as I'm raising the camera to my eye.
Great advice, Steve. Thank you!
Ten great tips Steve!!! I really appreciated Tip #1 because I have five cameras that I use routinely for mostly nature / wildlife here on my plantation in southeast Georgia and God knows I’ve missed some great opportunities because I failed to check settings before a shot!!! You continue to produce great videos. Thanks for sharing your knowledge, expertise and experiences.
I always appreciate your videos. Thanks, Steve!
Excellent!
Very helpful tips..
Very simple to follow... useful.. 👍
When will we get a review and tips on the Nikon Z9? Can't wait! Thank you in advance
LOL, I've had the camera about 24 hours now, so it'll be awhile :) I like to put the camera through its paces, so probably not till feb / march. But it should be pretty good :)
Thank you!
Beautiful & nice Video
use quiet continuous and burst with the d850 in lowlight conditions if handholding.. the gentle mirrorslap equals alot of sharp images compared to continous high
Point 1: that's why i love and prefer to have the top lcd, I can check the setting even before by watching inside the viewfinder. Too many cameras are not using it anymore, but it's essential most of the time, sometimes when you watch the settings inside the viewfinder it's too late to adjust them if not the proper ones.
Thank you Steve
Thanks Steve, great stuff
Steve can you please tell me what this Shoe vise lock is at 3:10 ?
Hi, wonderful videos! I noticed you are shooting Sony A1 that's out of reach for most people. What budget Sony option would you recommend for those who can only afford a camera in 700-1000 range?
Thank you, on your Nikon what focus mode do you suggest? And do you shoot in Single or Continuous? Thanks
Love your content Steve. Would love to see a video on how photographers can make money in wildlife photography
Thanks :) I'll let you know when I figure it out :) (just selling pics is rough, most of us of educational stuff - and I actually enjoy that more anyway)
Pushing on the tripod is not just for correct tightening of the legs. Setting the feet into sand, soft ground, or vegetation will ensure a steady camera base. Pressing down on the camera and lens may be required or hanging weight from the tripod.
Thanks for another wonderful video, Steve.
It would be great if you could give some tips on what AF Area modes you use for different settings. ex. mammals, birds in flight, small birds etc.
Thanks - I do have a lot of that spread out throughout my videos, but putting them together might make a good video. The biggest trick is that there are a lot of different camera brand and AF modes :)
Great instruction
Thank you.👍😎
I can appreciate the comments about the shadow pull and iso
Great video as usual! I know you shoot all the big 3 and favor Nikon. However I’d love to see something on your Sony settings etc. I’m new to the wildlife photography and am committed to Sony right now. I have 3 of your books in my basket as we speak and look forward to some great reading. Thank you
Thanks so much! I'm probably going to do a Sony settings video eventually. Right now, I'm working on the a1 review (it's huge as you can imagine) and after that I have a few trips. I'll get it in there eventually though - I've had a lot of requests :)
Testing the waters when it comes to stopping down both shutter speed and iso is tricky. The problem is, the subject you're shooting (a cute lil finch) isn't going to sit on a branch limb and wait for you to fiddle around with the camera settings on your camera. The bird presents itself for a few seconds and then it's gone.
This is why it's so important to make sure you already have the camera settings set to the closest possible in order to hopefully get a good shot the first time!
Yup, that's why I say:
"When you're facing a relatively stationary subject in low light, ISOs are often a problem."
"Stationary" being the operative word :)
And:
"The way this usually works is by starting with a wide open lens and using the slowest shutter speed that you think will safely net you a sharp image."
Just like you mention, make sure you have the camera set to get the shot. It's only after that that I say to start going slower. So, in your case, if the bird does fly, you still have the shot.
Can you do a video on how to find wildlife? I go out all the time and never seem to find any big mammals or birds of prey. Do I need to get deep in and camp? Am I moving wrong? Anything would be helpful
👍👍 thanks 👍👍🙏
very helpfull
Good joob, thanks
Regarding tip #3... Probably the best thing about digital photography... it costs nothing to take heaps of photos.
I do a lot of macro photography with focus stacks of up to 30 or more images and you only need to have the bug move in 1 or 2 photos
for the stack not to work so it's great not to have to be paying for photos :))
LOL, I hear ya. I can't tell you the number of times I've had to restart a focus stack with a fidgety frog!!
When will you be talking about or teaching best habits with the Nikon Z9?
I'm planning on it :)
Awesome tips Steve! I have been watching you for some time now and have learned so much from you. I currently use the D500 and the D850. I have the 500PF and the Tamron 70-200 G2 lenses. I was wondering which body would you pair with what lens for wildlife photography? I love the D850 with the 500PF for resolution, but I feel taking landscapes suffers when it comes to using the wider lens on the D500. Any suggestions? I'm not one to usually want to switch lenses all the time lol.
Hi Steve - Great video & thanks . Here's a D850 AF question for you - My focus point selector on both the joystick & multi-selector has frozen up . Any suggestions for getting it unstuck ? Thanks for your consideration & reponse .
Make sure the lock around the multi selector isn't engaged - that little switch is usually the cause of this issue (and we've all been there!)
Yes !!!! - Worked
Thanks so much for your time to respond to my head slapper question . Also for your vids over the years , from which I've learned so much . Now to wonder how that button got to the lock position.....
R/sir while taking photos for wildlife pl mention distance 25 feet or 30 feet or 20 feet for birds photography
Steve perry teach us and inspired us more then those #Nikon ambassador
Here's a check your settings tip that doesn't show in the viewfinder. I had been working on BIF shots and set my shutter to release without focus. I didn't change it back before the next day and ended up blowing what would have been a great set of common Yellowthroat shots. Compounding the problem was having my focus limiter switch set to 10 meters to infinity while the birds was just inside that range. What a let down to get home and realize all the images were to soft to use. If my shutter release had been set to only release when focus is obtained I would have know to switch the limiter. Lesson learned.
Ouch! I've done similar things so I feel your pain!
Just remember if you are going to do a shadow pull be aware of if your camera has a dual gain sensor. Sony sensors for example like the A9, A7RIII/IV etc have different gain at around ISO640 and it's far better to pull shadows at IS640 than ISO400 say. Basically what this means is the read noise is far lower at ISO640 than ISO400 an underexposed ISO640 shot will look a lot cleaner when shadow exposure is boosted than for an underexposed ISO400 shot. So the lowest ISO is not necessarily the best. Check the web to see if you have a dual gain sensor in your camera. Note some older sensors it won't matter, they aren't dual gain, but your ability to lift shadows even at low ISO's is quite limited, eg any Canon camera before the 5D mark IV/1DX mark II had rubbish shadow dynamic range.
Great
Another great video Steve! Thank you! A quick question: are you ever shooting Nikon mirrorless or are you sticking to DSLR Nikon + Sony mirrorless these days?
If you are shooting Nikon z7 which model is that and how's AF keeping up?
For the past five months or so it's been 99% Sony because I'm doing a review for the a1. The Z cameras are, at the moment, just too far behind Sony. I'm hoping that changes soon. As for AF areas, when I do shoot the Z madras for action, I still like the Wide (S) area the most :)
@@backcountrygallery And the Z you have are mark I or II? if that's mark II and the AF isn't that good, Nikon needs to get moving... and quickly too!
tip #3 4:20 my concern here is that one can get sloppy and just take bursts all the time, hoping for a good shot in there, rather than focussing one what actually makes a good shot. Good set of time though - many thanks!
Since anyone going for top quality photos would be shooting in raw, wouldn't crop mode be kind of pointless since the raw file would still contain the entire sensor worth of information? The way I save space is by saving full resolution raw + the smallest size jpeg. If I need a full res jpeg, I can export that after editing the raw file, but the small jpeg is convenient for quickly looking through the photos or having something to upload at web size before you have time to edit them.
In the cameras I've used, only the cropped portion is sent to the card. The files are significantly smaller.
Hi I have Sony A99 II with 70-400 SSMG2 lens I can not take sharp image
Off subject but…. Can you make an updated video on the Orton effect. ?
What's wrong with the current one?
This isn't condescending to anyone. But after learning to use the focus ring, my natural mental ability to predict, I have never been happy with autofocus.
Steve, would you make a video about ways to earn money with wildlife photography?
Spray & Pray 👍🏼
LOL, I like to think it's more intentional than that, but hey, sometimes it works!!
1
I thought tip #1 was going to be, get an A1 /600 f4 combo! Gutsy move shooting at 1/160 with a long lens. Exposure delay with wildlife, = not me. Maybe if the subject is asleep. Haha,Thanks for the vid.
Yeah, I can't pull that one off very often, but every now and then you get a subject that's just sitting there (birds usually, although I've used it with elk that were just lying down).
Agree on exposure delay, but I have shot down to around 1/40 (with 600F4 + teleconverter) and when the bird stayed motionless, something they only do very briefly, I got sharp images. What helped was I knew the bird would sit on the perch at some point which allowed me to have everything pre-focused and set up for the light and I used a remote trigger so no vibration at all.
@@johndoe-nh9sh Dang it! I meant to put a little asterisk note about a cable release in the exposure delay part of the video and completely forgot. Yup, cable release totally works. I wish YT still let you put in notes after the video was up...
@@johndoe-nh9sh Yep. Cable release! If a bird is perched on pole or something and my camera is on a tripod, I cut fatigue by taking my eye away from the viewfinder. I then watch using my normal vision and push the button when i need to. If I was really organised, I also use a pair of binoculars. Cheers.
@@backcountrygallery Now worries Steve, great tips as always :-)
Interestingly, even with 20 shots, if the success rate is 10 %, there is a 12 % change that there will be no sharp photos in these 20. To lower it to 5 %, you will need a burst of 29, and for 1 % a burst of 44.